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Gtac 047
Gtac 047
Gtac 047
WOMEN’S HORTICULTURAL
PRACTICES IN BRAZIL, 1500–1650*
Past & Present, no. 262 (February 2024) © The Author(s) 2023. Published by Oxford
University Press on behalf of The Past and Present Society, Oxford.
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https://doi.org/10.1093/pastj/gtac047 Advance Access published on 27 March 2023
46 PAST AND PRESENT
2
Women’s responsibility for horticulture in contemporary Indigenous
communities in Brazil is the subject of current enthnographical research: see, for
example, Joana Cabral de Oliveira et al. (eds.), Vozes vegetais: diversidade, resistências
e histórias da floresta (São Paulo, 2020); Karen Shiratori, ‘O olhar envenenado: a
perspectiva das plantas e o xamanismo vegetal jamamadi (médio Purus, AM)’,
Mana, xxv, 1 (2019); Fabiana Maizza, ‘Sobre as crianças-planta: o cuidar e o seduzir
no parentesco Jarawara’, Mana, xx, 3 (2014).
3
Luís da Câmara Cascudo, História da alimentação no Brasil, 4th edn (São
Paulo, 2011), 90–1. Horticulture is subsistence agriculture that relies on small-
scale farming or gardening practised with simple tools. Agriculture and farming are
large-scale practices that require greater interventions than growing and harvesting
plants. Peter Bellwood, First Farmers: The Origins of Agricultural Societies (Malden,
MA, 2004), 13. Mandioca is still widely consumed today in Brazil and elsewhere in
Latin America, but the staple carbohydrate is probably rice. Wheat bread returned
to favour as a food of the elite as mandioca came to be associated with enslaved and
poorer people.
4
I use ‘Tupi-speaking’ to refer to Indigenous peoples who spoke the Tupi language
and shared what was later termed a ‘Tupi-Guarani culture’ owing to a lack of sources
correctly naming different nations: John M. Monteiro, Blacks of the Land: Indian Slavery,
Settler Society, and the Portuguese Colonial Enterprise in South America, ed. and trans. James
P. Woodard and Barbara Weinstein (Cambridge, 2018), 9.
5
João Azevedo Fernandes, De cunhã a mameluca: a mulher Tupinambá e o
nascimento do Brasil (João Pessoa, 2003), 64.
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL 47
12
See, for example,Vinita Damodaran, Anna Winterbottom and Alan Lester (eds.),
The East India Company and the Natural World (London, 2015); Pratik Chakrabarti,
Medicine and Empire, 1600–1960 (Basingstoke, 2013); Londa Schiebinger and
Claudia Swan (eds.), Colonial Botany: Science, Commerce, and Politics in the Early
Modern World (Philadelphia, 2007); Antonio Barrera-Osorio, Experiencing Nature:
The Spanish American Empire and the Early Scientific Revolution (Austin, 2006).
13
Steven J. Harris, ‘Jesuit Scientific Activity in the Overseas Missions, 1540–
1773’, Isis, xcvi, 1 (2005); Andrés I. Prieto, Missionary Scientists: Jesuit Science in
Spanish South America, 1570–1810 (Nashville, 2011).
14
Bruno Latour, Politics of Nature: How to Bring the Sciences into Democracy, trans.
Catherine Porter (Cambridge, MA, 2004), 136.
15
Jordan Kellman, ‘Nature, Networks, and Expert Testimony in the Colonial
Atlantic: The Case of Cochineal’, Atlantic Studies, vii, 4 (2010), 374. See too David
Turnbull, ‘Travelling Knowledge: Narratives, Assemblage and Encounters’, in Marie
Noëlle Bourguet, Christian Licoppe and H. Otto Sibum (eds.), Instruments,Travel and
Science: Itineraries of Precision from the Seventeenth to the Twentieth Century (London,
2002); Neil Safier, ‘Global Knowledge on the Move: Itineraries, Amerindian
Narratives, and Deep Histories of Science’, Isis, ci, 1 (2010); Pablo F. Gómez, The
Experiential Caribbean: Creating Knowledge and Healing in the Early Modern Atlantic
(Chapel Hill, 2017); Kathleen S. Murphy, ‘Translating the Vernacular: Indigenous
and African Knowledge in the Eighteenth-Century British Atlantic’, Atlantic Studies,
viii, 1 (2011).
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL 51
an approach that examines how Indigenous communities
shared or withheld knowledge.16 As Anna Winterbottom has
suggested, Indigenous informants were not ‘passive yielders of
information’ but historical actors who interacted with settlers
based on individual and group dynamics.17 As a result, the his-
toriography has moved away from metropolitan centres to the
sites and communities in which knowledge was originally cir-
16
Kapil Raj, Relocating Modern Science: Circulation and the Construction of
Knowledge in South Asia and Europe, 1650–1900 (Basingstoke, 2007), 138.
17
Anna Winterbottom, Hybrid Knowledge in the Early East India Company World
(Basingstoke, 2016), 19.
18
Alfred W. Crosby Jr, The Columbian Exchange: Biological and Cultural Consequences
of 1492, 1st paperback edn (Westport, CT, 1972). See, for example, Júnia Ferreira
Furtado, ‘Tropical Empiricism: Making Medical Knowledge in Colonial Brazil’,
in Delbourgo and Dew (eds.), Science and Empire in the Atlantic World; Judith A.
Carney, ‘“ With Grains in her Hair ”: Rice in Colonial Brazil’, Slavery and Abolition,
xxv, 1 (2004); Robert Voeks, ‘Ethnobotany of Brazil’s African Diaspora: The Role
of Floristic Homogenization’, in Robert Voeks and John Rashford (eds.), African
Ethnobotany in the Americas (New York, 2013); Case Watkins, ‘African Oil Palms,
Colonial Socioecological Transformation and the Making of an Afro-Brazilian
Landscape in Bahia, Brazil’, Environment and History, xxi, 1 (2015).
19
Jorge Cañizares-Esguerra, Nature, Empire, and Nation: Explorations of the History
of Science in the Iberian World (Stanford, 2007), ch. 1.
52 PAST AND PRESENT
20
See Melissa Leach and Cathy Green, ‘Gender and Environmental History:
From Representation of Women and Nature to Gender Analysis of Ecology and
Politics’, Environment and History, iii, 3 (1997), 353. See also Nancy C. Unger,
‘Women and Gender: Useful Categories of Analysis in Environmental History’, in
Andrew C. Isenberg (ed.), The Oxford Handbook of Environmental History (Oxford,
2014).
21
See Kate Fullagar, The Warrior, the Voyager, and the Artist: Three Lives in an Age
of Empire (New Haven, 2020), 7–10. There are no sources written by Indigenous
women during this period; their voices survive in missionary records, chronicles,
traveller accounts and scientific treatises. However, six letters exchanged by
Indigenous men in the mid seventeenth century were found in the Dutch archives:
Theodoro Sampaio, ‘Cartas tupis dos Camarões’, Revista do Instituto Arqueológico
Histórico e Geográfico Pernambucano, xii, 68 (1906).
22
See Paul Ricœur, Memory, History, Forgetting, trans. Kathleen Blamey and
David Pellauer (Chicago, 2004).
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL 53
II
GENDERING AGRICULTURE
Between two and ten million women and men lived in the
land today known as Brazil (see Map) and spoke between six
hundred and a thousand languages prior to the arrival of the
Europeans.23 The latter first came into contact with groups of
28
Caminha likely confused West African inhame with the similar-looking
mandioca: A carta de Pêro Vaz de Caminha, ed. Jaime Cortesão (Lisbon, 1967), 124.
29
Amerigo Vespucci to Lorenzo Pietro Francesco di Medici, Mar. (or Apr.) 1503,
in The Letters of Amerigo Vespucci, and Other Documents Illustrative of his Career, trans.
Clements R. Markham (London, 1894).
30
Alida C. Metcalf suggests that Vespucci was aided by a degredado (exiled
convict) left by Cabral, who acted as an interpreter: Metcalf, Go-Betweens and the
Colonization of Brazil, 37.
31
Ibid., 277 n. 1. There were at least fifty editions of the so-called Mundus Novus
letter in various languages by 1550: Alida C. Metcalf, Mapping an Atlantic World,
circa 1500 (Baltimore, 2020), 178 n. 32.
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL 55
38
Ibid., pp. xx, 114.
39
Ibid., 114–19. See João Azevedo Fernandes, ‘Cauinagens e bebedeiras: os
índios e o álcool na história do Brasil’, Revista Anthropológicas, xiii, 2 (2002); Renato
Sztutman, ‘Cauim pepica: notas sobre os antigos festivais antropofágicos’, Campos:
Revista de Antropologia, viii, 1 (2007).
58 PAST AND PRESENT
40
Vasco Mariz and Lucien Provençal (eds.), Villegagnon e a França Antártica: uma
reavaliação (Rio de Janeiro, 2000).
41
See Driton Nushaj, ‘Topography and Cosmography in the Sixteenth Century:
A Window into Early Ethnography’, in Regna Darnell and Frederic W. Gleach
(eds.), Tracking Anthropological Engagements (Lincoln, NE, 2018).
42
André Thevet, La Cosmographie universelle (Paris, 1575), in André Thevet, Le
Brésil et les Brésiliens, ed. Suzanne Lussagnet (Paris, 1953), 137.
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL 59
43
Jean de Léry, History of a Voyage to the Land of Brazil, Otherwise Called America:
Containing the Navigation and the Remarkable Things Seen on the Sea by the Author; the
Behavior of Villegagnon in that Country;the Customs and Strange Ways of Life of the American
Savages, together with the Description of Various Animals, Trees, Plants, and Other Singular
Things Completely Unknown Over Here, trans. Janet Whatley (Berkeley, 1992), 69, 71, 73.
60 PAST AND PRESENT
III
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S LEADERSHIP
49
Manuel da Nóbrega to Martin de Azpilcueta Navarro, Salvador, 10 Aug. 1549,
MB, i, 135.
50
João de Azpilcueta to the Fathers and Brothers of Coimbra, Bahia, 28 Mar.
1550, CPJB, i, 179.
62 PAST AND PRESENT
51
Manuel da Nóbrega to Simão Rodrigues de Azevedo, Bahia, [late Aug.] 1552,
in Cartas do Brasil e mais escritos do P. Manuel da Nóbrega, ed. Serafim Leite (Coimbra,
1955), 141.
52
Manuel da Nóbrega to the Fathers and Brothers of Coimbra, Bahia, Aug.
1549, MB, i, 148–54.
53
Luís de Grã to Ignatius of Loyola, Bahia, 27 Dec. 1554, MB, ii, 131.
54
José de Anchieta to Ignatius of Loyola, São Paulo de Piratininga, 1 Sept. 1554,
MB, ii, 112.
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL 63
Anchieta and Grã, who lived in Indigenous villages, presumably
witnessed their practices, but these missionaries chose to avoid
reporting on what they achieved. Unlike the French writers, the
Jesuits censored most signs of the knowledges generated and
sustained by women, as well as their broader cultural signifi-
cance for their European colleagues.
In correspondence and in practice, Nóbrega and his col-
55
João de Azpilcueta Navarro to the Fathers and Brothers of Coimbra, Bahia, 28
Mar. 1550, CPJB, i, 179.
56
John Hemming, Red Gold:The Conquest of the Brazilian Indians (London, 1978), 27.
57
See Roberto Gambini, O espelho índio: os jesuítas e a destruição da alma indígena
(Rio de Janeiro, 1988).
58
Hemming, Red Gold, 43.
64 PAST AND PRESENT
59
Pedro Fernandes to Simão Rodrigues, Bahia, July 1552, CPJB, i, 361, 362, 365.
60
Rui Pereira to Fathers and Brothers of Portugal, Bahia, 15 Sept. 1560, MB, iii,
391.
61
Luís da Grã to Inácio de Loyola, Piratininga, 8 June 1556, MB, ii, 294.
62
Pedro Fernandes to Simão Rodrigues, Bahia, July 1552, CPJB, i, 365.
63
José de Anchieta to the Provincial of Portugal, São Paulo de Piratininga,
Salvador, [late] Dec. 1556, MB, ii, 314–15.
64
António de Sá[?] to the Fathers and Brothers of Bahia, Espírito Santo, [Feb.?]
1559, MB, iii, 20.
65
Metcalf, Go-Betweens and the Colonization of Brazil, 99. On Tupi metaphysics,
see Hélène Clastres, La Terre sans mal: le prophétisme tupi-guarani (Paris, 1975);
Eduardo Viveiros de Castro, ‘The Marble and the Myrthe: About the Inconstancy
of the Savage’s Soul’, Revista de Antropologia, xxxv (1992).
66
António de Sá[?] to the Fathers and Brothers of Bahia, Espírito Santo, [Feb.?]
1559, MB, iii, 20.
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL 65
importance of educating young people, who would yield more
easily to Christian doctrine, the practice of which older women
declined in favour of their traditional horticultural and spiritual
practices.
Older women were also vocal opponents of the Jesuit recruitment
of young boys to mission settlements.67 According to a letter from the
Jesuit missionary António Blásquez to Ignatius of Loyola, mothers
67
António Blásquez by order of Manuela da Nóbrega to Ignatius of Loyola,
Bahia, 10 June 1557, MB, ii, 379.
68
‘Letters from the Boys of the College of Jesus in Bahia to Pedro Domenech’,
Bahia, 5 Aug. 1552, in Novas cartas jesuíticas (de Nóbrega a Vieira), ed. Serafim Leite
(São Paulo, 1940), 148–9.
69
Hemming, Red Gold, 114.
70
‘Quarter of September of 1556 to January of 1557 by Brother António
Blásquez’, Bahia, 1 Jan. 1557, MB, ii, 352.
66 PAST AND PRESENT
71
See Laura de Mello e Souza, The Devil and the Land of the Holy Cross:Witchcraft,
Slavery, and Popular Religion in Colonial Brazil, trans. Diane Grosklaus Whitty
(Austin, 2010); Sharon L. Jansen, The Monstrous Regiment of Women: Female Rulers in
Early Modern Europe (New York, 2002).
72
José de Anchieta to Diego Laines, São Vicente, 8 Jan. 1565, MB, iv, 152–3.
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL 67
practices — horticultural, medical and otherwise — abhorrent
to such an extent that death was preferable to life among them.
After the 1560s and 1570s, either through natural causes or,
more likely, through the deadly epidemics and wars that dis-
proportionately affected the Tupi-speaking peoples, the Jesuits
reported fewer instances of women horticulturists. In the latter
half of the sixteenth century, settlers, who needed cheap labour
73
Monteiro, Blacks of the Land, 39. Indigenous peoples could be enslaved
through ‘just war’, barter or by being ‘rescued’ (resgate) from ritual cannibalism.
The Portuguese Crown at times allowed and forbade Indigenous slavery based on
advocacy made by the Jesuits, but practice rarely aligned with royal mandates. See
Schwartz, Sugar Plantations in the Formation of Brazilian Society, 53.
74
Monteiro, Blacks of the Land, 39. The Jesuits tacitly condoned the bloody
campaigns led by Mem de Sá (1500–72), the governor-general of Brazil between
1557 and 1572, against coastal Indigenous peoples in Bahia and Ilhéus that resulted
in the surrender of formerly independent morubixaba. Their communities were
consolidated into existing settlements. Metcalf, Go-Betweens and the Colonization of
Brazil, 111–12. On disease, see Dauril Alden and Joseph C. Miller, ‘Out of Africa:
The Slave Trade and the Transmission of Smallpox to Brazil, 1560–1831’, Journal of
Interdisciplinary History, xviii, 2 (1987).
75
Manuel da Nóbrega to Miguel de Torres, Bahia, 8 May 1558, CPJB, ii, 455.
68 PAST AND PRESENT
IV
THE BOUNTIFUL LAND AND THE ERASURE OF ITS CAREGIVERS
76
An anonymous manuscript also appeared in Purchas’s Pilgrims in 1625, which
briefly mentioned mandioca: ‘A Treatise of Brasill, Written by a Portugall Which
Had Long Lived There’, in Hakluytus posthumus: or, Purchas his Pilgrimes: Contayning
a History of the World in Sea Voyages and Lande Travells by Englishmen and Others, ed.
Samuel Purchas, 20 vols. (Glasgow, 1905), vii, 474.
77
Pêro de Magalhães Gândavo, Tratado da terra do Brasil: história da província
Santa Cruz, a que vulgarmente chamamos Brasil (1576; Brasília, 2008), 59–60.
78
On translations more broadly, see Larissa Brewer-García, Beyond Babel:
Translations of Blackness in Colonial Peru and New Granada (Cambridge, 2020).
79
Gândavo, Tratado da terra do Brasil, 60, 133–8.
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL 69
Ribatejo in central Portugal, Soares arrived in Bahia in 1569,
where he established himself as one of the wealthiest colo-
nists.80 He owned two sugar mills and was the proprietor of
large swaths of land, cattle ranches, a residence in the capital
and many enslaved West African and Indigenous people.81 In
the 1580s, Soares travelled to the court of Philip II of Spain
(r. 1556–98; ruled as Philip I of Portugal, 1580–98) to petition
80
Cláudio Ganns, ‘O primeiro historiador do Brasil em espanhol’, Revista do
Instituto Histórico e Geográfico Brasileiro, ccxxxviii (1958), 148.
81
J. F. de Almeida Prado, A Bahia e as capitanias do centro do Brasil (1530–1626):
história da formação da sociedade Brasileira, 3 vols. (São Paulo, 1945), ii, 247.
82
Serafim Leite, História da Companhia de Jesus no Brasil, 4 vols. (Lisbon, 1938),
iii, 453–4.
83
Francisco Weffort, Espada, cobiça e fé: as origens do Brasil (Rio de Janeiro, 2013), 134.
70 PAST AND PRESENT
Men are not allowed to plant or take care of [the peanut]; only Indian
and mameluca women may plant them. This is because their husbands
do not understand anything about farming, and if they or their [male]
slaves plant them, they will not grow. The females will [then] harvest
them, and, according to their custom, it has to be the same person
who planted them.
84
Sousa, Tratado descritivo do Brasil, 311, 182, 197, 184–5.
85
Ibid., 184–5.
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL 71
security is promised without reference to Indigenous peoples
and their practices: a long section praises mandioca, describing
its preparation and the variety of dishes that could be made
from it. However, Indigenous women are only mentioned in
the context of their integration into colonial society: one of the
interlocutors notes that they wore long white linen shirts with
their hair tied with silk ribbon, ‘habits that the fathers of the
86
Diálogos das grandezas do Brasil, ed. Ambrósio Fernandes Brandão (Brasília,
2010), 207–11, 298, 304.
87
Claude d’Abbeville, Histoire de la mission des pères capucins en l’isle de Maragnan
et terres circonvoisines: où est traicté des singularitez admirables et des mœurs merveilleuses
des Indiens habitans de ce pais (Paris, 1614); Miguel de Asúa and Roger French, A
New World of Animals: Early Modern Europeans on the Creatures of Iberian America
(Aldershot, 2005), 148.
88
Abbeville, Histoire de la mission des pères capucins en l’isle de Maragnan et terres
circonvoisines, 229–30.
72 PAST AND PRESENT
89
Asúa and French, New World of Animals, 148.
90
Schwartz, Sugar Plantations in the Formation of Brazilian Society, 165.
91
Russell Menard and Stuart B. Schwartz, ‘Why African Slavery? Labor Force
Transitions in Brazil, Mexico, and the Carolina Lowcountry’, in Wolfgang Binder
(ed.), Slavery in the Americas (Würzburg, 1993), 96. The situation was different in
São Paulo: Monteiro, Blacks of the Land, 39.
92
Schwartz, Sugar Plantations in the Formation of Brazilian Society, 160.
93
Mircea Buescu, História econômica do Brasil: pesquisas e análises (São Paulo,
1970), 60; Robin Blackburn, The Making of New World Slavery: From the Baroque to
the Modern, 1492–1800 (London, 2010), 167.
94
Stuart B. Schwartz, ‘Indian Labor and New World Plantations: European
Demands and Indian Responses in Northeastern Brazil’, American Historical Review,
lxxxiii, 1 (1978), 51–2.
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL 73
favour of European paradigms, particularly following the arrival
of the Inquisition in the 1590s.95
Among the late sixteenth-century arrivals were the Dutch,
in 1594, who had been granted permission to trade by Philip
II.96 This agreement was extended by the Twelve Years’ Truce
(1609) between Spain and the Dutch, and by the time the truce
ended, Dutch exports amounted to more than half of Brazilian
95
Ronaldo Vainfas, A heresia dos índios: Catolicismo e rebeldia no Brasil colonial (São
Paulo, 1995).
96
David Onnekink and Gijs Rommelse, The Dutch in the Early Modern World: A
History of a Global Power (Cambridge, 2019), 71.
97
Schwartz, Sugar Plantations in the Formation of Brazilian Society, 19.
98
Jonathan Irvine Israel and Stuart B. Schwartz, The Expansion of Tolerance:
Religion in Dutch Brazil (1624–1654) (Amsterdam, 2007), 8.
99
See C. R. Boxer, The Dutch in Brazil, 1624–1654 (Oxford, 1957); Schwartz,
Sugar Plantations in the Formation of Brazilian Society, 177.
100
See E. van den Boogaart, H. R. Hoetink and Peter James Palmer Whitehead
(eds.), Johan Maurits van Nassau-Siegen, 1604–1679: A Humanist Prince in Europe
and Brazil. Essays on the Occasion of the Tercentenary of his Death (The Hague, 1979).
101
Georg Marggraf, História natural do Brasil, trans. José Procópio Magalhães (São
Paulo, 1942).
74 PAST AND PRESENT
102
Julie Berger Hochstrasser, ‘Visual Impact: The Long Legacy of the Artists of
Dutch Brazil’, in Michiel van Groesen (ed.), The Legacy of Dutch Brazil (Cambridge,
2014), 276.
103
Marggraf, História natural do Brasil, trans. Magalhães, 66.
104
Johannes Nieuhof, Memorável viagem marítima e terrestre ao Brasil, trans. Moacir
Nascimento Vasconcelos (São Paulo, 1942), 289.
5. ‘Pernambuco’. The different stages of mandioca production. From Reys-Boeck van het rijcke Brasilien, Rio de la Plata ende Magallanes
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL
([Dordrecht?], 1624). The book is signed N.V.G. [Nicolas van Geelkercken?]. Paper. Engraving. 20.2 cm × 31 cm. © Brown University,
Providence, RI, 02912, John Carter Brown Library, box 1894.
75
Staden, Léry and Sousa: the people are clothed, the women
are absent from the fields, and, most notably in the portraits
by Albert Eckhout (c.1610–1665), everyone is integrated
into society and, as Rebecca Parker Brienen argues, coded as
semi-civilized.105
In 1641 Eckhout was invited by Johann Moritz to paint a series
of eight portraits of men and women, including Tupi-speaking
6. Albert Eckhout, Tupi Woman, Brazil, 1641. Oil on canvas. 163 × 227 cm. Used
by permission of the National Museum of Denmark.
78 PAST AND PRESENT
109
Brienen, Visions of Savage Paradise, 193, 196.
110
Dorinda Outram, ‘Gender’, in The Cambridge History of Science, iii, ed.
Katharine Park and Lorraine Daston (Cambridge, 2006). On European perceptions
of Indigenous knowledges, see Justin E. H. Smith, Nature, Human Nature, and
Human Difference: Race in Early Modern Philosophy (Princeton, 2017), 84.
111
Smith, Nature, Human Nature, and Human Difference, 84.
112
C. R. Boxer, The Golden Age of Brazil: Growing Pains of a Colonial Society, 1695–
1750 (Berkeley, 1969).
INDIGENOUS WOMEN’S HORTICULTURE IN BRAZIL 79
7. Albert Eckhout, Tupi Man, Brazil, 1641. Oil on canvas. 163 × 272 cm. Used by
permission of the National Museum of Denmark.
80 PAST AND PRESENT
VI
CONCLUSION
Jessica O’Leary
Australian Catholic University, Melbourne, Australia