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Another random document with
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Mysterious Passes over the Concealed Candle are Made and Its Color
Announced
 The performer hides a small compass in his palm. It is held in
place by a wire clip, gripped between the second and third fingers
near the knuckles. A wave of the hand over the tube containing a
candle will affect the compass if any candle other than the white one
is used. Its needle will vibrate when approaching the concealed
magnet, and by determining quickly the position of the magnet, the
color may be announced.
Those who offer guesses usually insist that some electrical device
is used.
 Desk Slide in Top of Drawer
Placing a lock lid in the top of a desk drawer provided a writing
board and also gave privacy to the drawer, as shown in the sketch.

The Lid Provides a Writing Slide and Gives Privacy to the Drawer

A lady’s desk in a nicely furnished room was used for the

telephone and as the desk was often locked there was no place on
which to rest the instrument or to take notes. The drawer lid, locked
with a chest lock, proved effective. The lid may be moved back so as
to expose the contents of the drawer. It was finished to match the
desk.—Contributed by Victor Labadie, Dallas, Tex.
 Repairing a Broken Fly-Screen Frame

Sheet-Metal Braces Used on a Loose Window-Screen Frame to Make It Rigid

An old broken fly-screen frame was made quite rigid with the use
of metal braces, cut as shown and fastened with nails to each
corner. The brace was cut from sheet metal, and the edges A and B
were cut and bent at right angles to the main part, with their extreme
edges bent over the frame. These were sufficient to make the frame
as rigid as a new one.
 Raising the Temperature of a Room
The temperature of a room may apparently be raised several
degrees with the same expenditure of heat, and greater comfort will
result by the application of a simple principle. In summer a moist day
seems warmer than a dry one though the thermometer registers the
same. By permitting steam to escape from a radiator or keeping a
kettle boiling on the stove, the air is moistened and feels warmer.
 A Carbon Electric Water Heater
The water heater illustrated is for use on a 110-volt circuit without
added resistance. It consists of two electrodes which are immersed
directly in the water; and while it is not as artistic as the usual
nickelplated heater, it is usually more economical and has the
distinct advantage that it cannot be burnt out. It may be made as
rapid in action as desired, is inexpensive and very convenient where
water is required for experimental or industrial purposes.
 For the electrodes, procure two ¹⁄₂-in. uncoppered carbons, and
drill a hole in the top of each of these so that feed wires can be
attached. The handle is shaped from a piece of hard wood. The
lower end is hollowed out half round at either side, so that the
carbons will fit in snugly. Four small holes are then drilled through
from side to side for binding wires, and a large hole is made in the
center for the feed wires. Two smaller branch holes are then drilled
to join the center hole, so that the double feed cord may be branched
out to reach both electrodes. The outer edge of the handle is neatly
rounded off and boiled in paraffin so as to render it impervious to
moisture.
 Remove sufficient insulation from the feed cord to make a good
connection with the carbons. Fish the wire through the handle from
the upper end. Pull each of the two ends pretty well through, so that
they can be securely threaded into the holes previously made in the
carbons. Have the latter quite hot and run in as much solder as
possible, forcing it in with the end of a match as it becomes plastic.
Remove all traces of the flux, and paint the connection with some
melted pitch, taken from the top of a discarded dry cell. The feed
cord may then be pulled up tightly, which will draw the carbons in
place. They are then bound by threading through several strands of
copper wire. If the holes in the wood are slightly countersunk, and
two small grooves filed around each carbon at the right places to let
the holding wires in, the binding feature may be disposed of very
neatly.
In some localities the water is so free from all mineral salts that it
will not carry the current freely, which means that the electrodes
must be placed closer together, or else a small pinch of common salt
may be added to the water. Although, in sterilizing instruments,
boiling eggs, or something of that sort, this would be of no
advantage, the salt greatly hastens the boiling.
 Preventing Looseness of Drawer Handles

Drawer handles frequently become loosened and sometimes

cause further annoyance by falling to the floor or becoming lost,
because the bolt fastening, as shown in the sketch, is not secure.
This may be avoided by inserting a rubber band between the head of
the bolt and the drawer front. When the knob is drawn up tightly the
pressure of the rubber band prevents it from becoming loosened.—
Contributed by O. F. Germaine, Akron, Ohio.
 An Electrical Dancer
The modification of the well-known mechanical dancer shown in
the illustration is based on the principle of the electric bell. While the
amusing antics of the mechanical dancer are controlled by the hand,
the manikin shown is actuated by the electromagnet.

When the Contact is Made the Figure Dances

 The mechanism is contained in a box. It consists of an
electromagnet with a soft-iron armature carried by a spring. A wire
from the battery goes to the magnet. The other terminal of the
magnet connects with the armature spring at L1. The spring is bent
at a right angle at its other end, L2, and carries a platform, L3,
strengthened by a smaller disk underneath. The dancer performs
upon this platform.
A contact spring, S, is carried by the armature spring. A contact
screw, C, is adjustable in its contact with the spring S. A wire runs
from the contact screw to the binding post B, to which the other
battery wire is connected.
The current keeps the platform in constant vibration, causing the
dancer to “dance.” By means of the screw C, the action of the
current may be varied, and the “dancing” will vary correspondingly.
The figure is made of wood with very loose joints and is
suspended so that the feet barely touch the platform.—Contributed
by Edward C. Connelly, Wilkesbarre, Pa.
 Child’s Swing Built of Pipes in Narrow Space

This Substantial Swing Guards the Youngsters from Injury by Brushing

against the Brick Walls

A narrow space between two city houses was used to erect a

swing, as detailed in the illustration. A piece of 2-in. iron pipe, A, was
cut 1 ft. longer than the space between the walls. Two pieces of 2¹⁄₂-
in. pipe and a 2¹⁄₂ by 2¹⁄₂ by 1¹⁄₄-in. tee, as shown in the detail, was
slipped over the 2-in. pipe, which was built into the walls. A 1¹⁄₄-in.
pipe, B, 20 ft. long, bent as shown, was joined to the tee, and a seat,
C, was attached. The construction of the seat is shown in detail,
being fixed to the wooden part with washers, nuts, and a threaded
nipple, D. A cushion and a removable safety bar, E, were also
features. This swing is safer than one of rope, and will stand much
greater wear.—James N. Reed, San Francisco, Calif.
 Door Bumpers Raise Height of Chair
Four wooden door bumpers, of the rubber-tipped knob type,
fastened to the lower ends of the legs of one of the kitchen chairs,
make an almost indispensable high chair, which will bring the table
work to a more comfortable height than the ordinary chair does. The
young child also will appreciate such a chair at the dining table.
When it is no longer needed, the knobs can be unscrewed quickly.—
J. E. McCoy, Philadelphia, Pa.
 A Homemade Hawaiian Ukulele
By S. H. SAMUELS

T he one-string banjo, the cigar-box guitar, and similar vaudeville

favorites are giving way to the tantalizing ukulele, and the home
mechanic, to be up to date in his musical craftsmanship, must fall in
line. The size of this instrument makes it especially suited to the
cigar-box type of body construction, as detailed in the several
sketches and shown in the photograph reproduced. This neat
ukulele was made at a cost of 30 cents, by careful selection of
materials from the shop scrap stock.

This Cigar-Box Ukulele Cost the Maker 80 Cents, and Affords Him the
Pleasures of a More Expensive One

A cigar box of good-quality Spanish cedar, about 2¹⁄₂ by 6 by 9 in.,

as shown in Fig. 1, is used for the body. Remove the paper carefully,
so as not to mar the surface, soaking it if necessary. Take it apart,
and if the nail holes are too numerous, or broken out, trim off the
edges. Fit the parts of the body together, as shown in Fig. 2, the top
and bottom pieces resting against the side and end pieces, and the
latter between the sides. Cut the 2¹⁄₂-in. hole in the top piece, as
shown, 3³⁄₄ in. from the neck end. To reinforce the body make strips
A, ¹⁄₄ in. square, and fit them to be glued into the corners at the top
and bottom. Make strips B, ¹⁄₄ by ⁵⁄₈ by 4¹⁄₂ in., and glue them under
the top and on the bottom as indicated in Fig. 2. The final
assembling and gluing of these parts, using animal glue, should be
done after the bridge C is in place, and the other parts are made.
The bridge is of hard wood hollowed underneath the notched edge,
as detailed, and is fitted with a metal string contact.

Fig. 1 Fig. 3
Fig. 2

To Keep in the Fashion in His Musical Craftsmanship, the Home Mechanic

may Make a Cigar-Box Ukulele as Detailed

Spanish cedar or mahogany is suitable for the neck, detailed in

Fig. 3. A single piece is best, but the extension for the pegs and the
wider end at the body may be joined and glued to the main portion of
the neck. Dowels should then be used to reinforce the joints. The
outline of the parts of the neck are shown in detail in Fig. 3. In the
sectional view at the right, the shape of the neck at the thinnest and
thickest parts is shown by the two upper curved, dotted lines. The
nut D is made of mahogany, walnut, or other hard wood, the grain
extending lengthwise, and the notches for the strings spaced as
shown.
The making and spacing of the frets must be done very carefully.
They are of aluminum, brass and other metals being suitable also.
Make the frets ¹⁄₁₆ by ³⁄₁₆ in. and cut grooves ¹⁄₈ in. deep for them.
The spacing of the frets is determined as follows, a standard
practice: The distance from the metal string-contact on the bridge to
the nut should be measured carefully. The first fret, near the head, is
¹⁄₁₈ of this distance from the nut, the total length being in this
instance, 13 in. The second fret is set ¹⁄₁₈ the distance from the first
fret to the bridge; the third, ¹⁄₁₈ from the second fret to the bridge, etc.
The frets must fit tightly in the grooves, requiring no special
fastening. The tuning pegs may be bought or made.
In assembling the parts, fasten the end of the body to the neck,
with glue, reinforced by screws. Set its upper edge parallel with the
fingerboard, and so that the latter is flush with the top of the body,
when fitted to it. Assemble the body, without the top, gluing it to the
end, fixed to the neck. When this portion is thoroughly dried, fit the
top into place finally, and glue it. The whole construction is then
cleaned, sandpapered, stained, and shellacked or varnished. The
stringing of the instrument is simple, and the strings may be
purchased in sets.
 Homemade Suitcase Extension

A handy addition to the traveler’s equipment is a suitcase

extension that may be removed when not in use, and folded
compactly, inside of the suitcase if desired. This latter feature is
provided for by arranging the extension to be folded vertically at the
middle. Heavy leather, cloth board covered with strong linen, or
canvas of a suitable color may be used. If cloth board is used it
should be cut the size of the side of the suitcase, and smaller
sections hinged to it at the folds. The leather need not be reinforced
if it is fairly strong. Cut the leather at A, B, C, and D, and arrange it to
be folded on the dotted lines. Rivet guides for the straps, as at E. Fit
the corners with buttons or snaps F, which are locked in position
when the extension is in use. The device slides over the suitcase
and may be drawn tightly against it when empty.—R. S. Matzen, Fort
Collins, Colo.
 Putty Deadens Glossy Surfaces in Photography
Attempts to make “close-up” photographs of machinery, or highly
polished objects, often fail because the reflection of light upon the
bright surfaces causes a blur in the photograph. Some
photographers use putty to deaden the gloss. A lump of putty is
rubbed over the surface gently where a brilliant reflection is visible,
or the entire surface is rubbed so that it presents an even, dead
finish on the ground glass of the camera, when focusing.—Ralph W.
Tillotson, Erie, Pennsylvania.