Softlines Performance and Special Claims Protocols and Specifications

SOFTLINES PERFORMANCE & SPECIAL CLAIMS
PROTOCOLS & SPECIFICATIONS
4 October 2023
TABLE OF CONTENT
SECTION 1 INTRODUCTION
1.1 BASIC TESTING PACKAGE / FULL TESTING
1.2 PRODUCT SCOPE
1.3 GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
1.4 CORPORATE TESTING POLICY
SECTION 2 DEFINITIONS & ADDITIONAL TEST INSTRUCTIONS

2.1 DEFINITIONS
2.2 ADDITIONAL TEST INSTRUCTIONS
SECTION 3 TEST PACKAGES

3.1 WOVEN TEST PACKAGE
3.2 DENIM TEST PACKAGE
3.3 KNIT TEST PACKAGE
3.4 INTIMATE APPAREL TEST PACKAGE
3.5 SWEATER TEST PACKAGE
3.6 LEATHER TEST PACKAGE
3.7 TEXTILE ACCESSORIES TEST PACKAGE
3.7.1 SOCKS_TEST_PACKAGE
3.7.2 TIGHTS_TEST_PACKAGE
3.7.3 GLOVES_TEST_PACKAGE
3.7.4 BIBS_TEST_PACKAGE
3.7.5 SCARVES_TEST_PACKAGE
3.7.6 HATS_TEST_PACKAGE
3.7.7 TIES_TEST_PACKAGE
3.7.8 TEXTILE_EYE_MASKS_TEST_PACKAGE
3.7.9 SWEAT_BANDS_TEST_PACKAGE
3.8 TRIMS TEST PACKAGE
3.8.1 ALL_TRIMS
3.8.2 ELASTICS, WOVEN LABEL, TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, WEBBING, TEXTILE APPLIQUE/
EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES, PRINTS, PLASTIC BEADS OR SEQUINS ON APPLIQUES, TAGLESS LABEL
PRINTS
3.8.3 SNAPS__EYELETS__RIVETS_AND_METAL_TRIM
3.8.4 BUTTONS__BEADS
3.8.5 BUCKLE__HASP__HOOK___EYE
3.8.6 ZIPPERS
3.8.7 GARMENT_SIZE_STICKERS
3.8.8 POMPOMS_AND_TASSELS
3.8.9 FILL_MATERIAL_AND_PRE_MADE_PADS__PERFORM_ON_ENCASED_FILL_ONLY
3.8.10 HOOK AND LOOP FASTENERS
3.8.11 HOOK_AND_EYE_TAPE
3.8.12 FUNCTIONAL HOOKS AND CLASPS-METAL, NYLON COATED METAL AND CLEAR NYLON PLASTIC
/RINGS AND SLIDES-METAL/NYLON
3.9 DOWN AND FILL TEST PACKAGE
3.10 SPECIAL CLAIMS TEST PACKAGE
SECTION 4 CATEGORY PROTOCOLS

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
Softlines Performance and Special Claims Confidential Gap Inc. Property

Protocols and Specifications - 4 October 2023 – Do No Redistribute Page 2 of 174
4.4 INTIMATE APPAREL PROTOCOL
4.5 SWEATER PROTOCOL
4.6 LEATHER PROTOCOL
4.7 TEXTILE ACCESSORIES PROTOCOL
4.7.1 SOCKS PROTOCOL
4.7.2 TIGHTS_PROTOCOL
4.7.3 GLOVES_PROTOCOL
4.7.4 BIBS_PROTOCOL
4.7.5 SCARVES_PROTOCOL
4.7.6 HATS_PROTOCOL
4.7.7 TIES_PROTOCOL
4.7.8 TEXTILE_EYE_MASKS_PROTOCOL
4.7.9 SWEAT_BANDS_PROTOCOL
4.8 TRIMS PROTOCOL
4.8.1 ALL TRIMS
EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES, PRINTS, PLASTIC BEADS OR SEQUINS ON APPLIQUES, TAGLESS LABEL
PRINTS
4.8.3 SNAPS, EYELETS, RIVETS AND METAL TRIM
4.8.4 BUTTONS & BEADS
4.8.5 BUCKLE, HASP, HOOK & EYE
4.8.6 ZIPPERS
4.8.7 GARMENT SIZE STICKERS
4.8.8 POMPOMS AND TASSELS
4.8.9 FILL MATERIAL AND PRE-MADE PADS (PERFORM ON ENCASED FILL ONLY)
4.8.11 HOOK AND EYE TAPE
4.9 DOWN AND FILL PROTOCOL
4.10 SPECIAL CLAIMS PROTOCOL
SECTION 5 CARE GUIDELINES

5.1 EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTION SOP – HOW LABS SHOULD APPLY EXPECTED CARE VERSUS
SUBMITTED CARE
5.2 LABORATORY CARE DEVELOPMENT – LABORATORY RESPONSIBILITY
5.3 MODIFICATIONS FOR WASHING AND DRYING INSTRUCTIONS
5.4 ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR GAP INC GIS AND BRAND – CARE INSTRUCTION TERM SOP
5.5 DRY CLEANING POLICY
5.6 CATEGORY EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS
SECTION 6 SUPPLEMENTARY
6.1 APPEARANCE EVALUATION FOR BRA
6.2 BONDED SEAM APPEARANCE - PASS/FAIL EVALUATION REFERENCE PHOTOS
6.3 REFLECTIVE TAPE APPEARANCE - PASS/FAIL EVALUATION REFERENCE PHOTO
6.4 GARMENT SIZE STICKER RESTRICTIONS
6.5 ZIPPER SPECIFICATION CHART #4000
6.6 FILLING POWER SPECIFICATIONS

SECTION 1 INTRODUCTION
1.1 BASIC TESTING PACKAGE / FULL TESTING
Full Testing Package = Performance Protocol AND Product Safety & Regulations (PSR) Protocol
IMPORTANT NOTE: This document specifies the Performance & Special Claim Protocols only, but does NOT contain Product
Safety & Regulations (PSR) requirements
1.2 PRODUCT SCOPE

1.2.1 IN-SCOPE
This document addresses Gap Inc Softlines(Apparel & Textiles Accessories) product performance requirements and their
Special Claims requirements. The in-scope products are listed below:
Softlines (Apparel & Textile Apparel Accessories)
Apparel Category Woven
Denim
Knit
Intimate Apparel
Sweater
Leather
Textile Accessories Socks
Tights
Gloves
Bibs
Scarves
Hats
Ties
Textile Eye masks
Sweatbands
Down Down & Fill
Trims Trims using in Apparel or Textile Accessories
1.2.2 OUT-OF-SCOPE
Below product specifications are not covered in this documents
Fashion Accessories & Other Products, such as:
- Bags, Belts, Earmuffs, & Umbrellas
- Footwear
- Home Textiles
- Jewelry, Hair Accessories, Key Rings / Chains
- Sunglasses
- Medical Masks
- Toys
1.3 GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

The category product requires testing in the stage of TRIM, FABRIC, GARMENT / FINISHED PRODUCT.
Participants in Gap Inc.’s Supply Chain (Vendors, Fabric Mills, Trim Suppliers, Laboratories, and internal business partners)
shall refer to the Test Package section and Category Protocol section about the required test criteria.
1.4 CORPORATE TESTING POLICY

Participants in Gap Inc.’s Supply Chain (Vendors, Fabric Mills, Trim Suppliers, Laboratories, and internal business partners)
shall refer to the Gap Inc. Corporate Testing Program and its appendices for requirements including production testing policy,
financial responsibility, laboratory testing, compliance document retention policy, and Product Integrity contacts.
Appendix 1 – Gap Inc. Approved Laboratories
Appendix 2 – Gap Inc. Sample Size Requirements
Appendix 3 – Laboratory Test Pricing
Appendix 4 – Gap Inc. Test Request Form (OTRF) Online Version
Appendix 5 – Gap Inc. Test Request Form (TRF) Excel Version
Appendix 6 – IDFL Down & Feather Test Request Form
Appendix 7 – User Guide for Test Result Management (TRM) System
Appendix 8 - SOP for 100% Cashmere Product Testing

SECTION 2 DEFINITIONS & ADDITIONAL TEST INSTRUCTIONS
2.1 DEFINITIONS
Below are definitions and terminologies of each construction and the appropriate protocol to use. For any questions, reach out to your local GIS
office for clarification
2.1.1 DEFINITIONS - PROTOCOL APPLICATION
PROTOCOL DEFINITION
All types of CV Cotton Twill, plain and special weave dyed with indigo dye or Indigo dye /sulfur or sulfur in
WOVEN DENIM warp yarn (might include regenerated man-made fiber mix or with elastomeric fills.
Use: Denim protocol
An indigo or sulphur dyed knit fabric structure to be used in a jean bottoms/jackets (Product examples are
shown in the pictures below).
KNIT DENIM
Use: Denim protocol , with exception on pilling resistance, tensile strength and tear strength.
• Tear / tensile strengths – to be replaced with bursting strength
• Pilling resistance – align the method with knits
• Seam stretchability – standard as knits
WHITE DENIM Use: Woven protocol
All types of woven construction dyed or printed in fabric or yarn from with no indigo dye, as well as “Prepare
WOVEN for Dyed” (PFD) fabrics are classified as woven fabric.
Use: Woven protocol
Seamless is a manufacturing technology in the apparel industry that knits garments into shape which
eliminates/minimizes the fabric laying, cutting and sewing process.
Protocol Application for different seamless products:

GIS Category
Gender End-use Protocol Application
when filling OTRF
SEAMLESS
Women and Girls Bra Intimate Apparel IPSS
Women and Girls Panties (underwear) Intimate Apparel IPSS
Women and Girls Tops and Bottoms Knit Knits
Men and Boy Underwear Knit Knits
Men and Boy Top and Bottoms Knit Knits
The garment components are joined together without using a sewing machine and stitches. Instead, garment
components are joined together by means of heat sealing and bonding technology (such as bonded /
SEW-FREE ultrasonic).
Refer to Sew-Free Test Group of the corresponding category

2.1.2 TERMINOLOGY
TERMINOLOGY EXPLANATIONS
Chief Value is defined as the largest value in a fiber blend
Example:
Fiber content: 43% Rayon, 34%Cotton, 23% Polyester
Chief value for the above fiber content is Rayon
CHIEF VALUE (CV) It is important to know the Chief Value (CV) because the test requirements may vary based on content, and
the selection of test requirement is based on the Chief Value (CV).
In case of 2 appropriate Chief Values existing in the fiber content, e.g. 48% cotton 48% polyester 2% spandex,
for general practice, follow the strictest requirement unless there is Gap Inc PI further guidelines
FLAT RAYON Fabric made from regular CV Rayon/Viscose yarn without high twist (with regular flat finish, plain weave)
Any fabric with high twist CV Rayon/Viscose yarn used in warp, weft, or both, including chiffon, georgette,
CRINKLE RAYON
crepe, moss crepe
Fabric made from CV Rayon/Viscose yarn without high twist but in different weaves, i.e. twill/broken
TEXTURE RAYON
twill/HB/satin/dobby/ mechanical crinkle gauze /raised surface (even for plain weave)
NATURAL Fiber includes chief value cotton, flax, hemp, silk, ramie, wool, etc
REGENERATED
Fiber includes chief value modal, lyocell, acetate, tencel, rayon, viscose
CELLULOSE
SYNTHETIC Fiber includes chief value acrylic, nylon, polyester, modacrylic
WASHED Fabric, panel or garment washed
In terms of how we use the phrase “washed fabric” for our packages, washed fabric means garment washed
KNIT WASHED FABRIC
fabric not after HL or care.
After the garment is sewn, the garment is treated with any wet processing e.g. enzyme washed, stone
GARMENT WASH
washed, softener washed, etc.
MIXED MEDIA Mixed media is two different constructions married into one garment
The denim fabric in the original state as shipped from mill to vendor. This includes both:
DENIM BULK FABRIC • Fabric that is still sized (true rigid fabric) and also
QUALITY • Mill-finished fabric such as flat finished, mercerized, de-sized, over-dyed, resin-finished, coated, or any other
type of mill processing that is applied to the fabric before shipment to the wash vendor
The denim fabric submitted in bulk fabric quality and then prepared via HL by the lab through the process as
1 HL PREPARED
below:
FABRIC (DENIM)
• 1 HL prepared fabric = 1 wash 1 dry prepared fabric = 1 HL (MWH - 140F), followed by 1 dry (TDM)
The denim fabric submitted in bulk fabric quality and then prepared via HL by the lab through the process as
3 HL PREPARED
below:
FABRIC (DENIM)
• 3 HL prepared fabric = 3 washes 1 dry prepared fabric = 3 HL (MWH - 140F), followed by 1 dry (TDM)
"Prepare for Dyed"

The fabric which is prepared for dyeing, is specially made to be dyed. PFD fabrics have been desized, scoured,
PFD fabric
and fully bleached, but have been processed without optical brighteners or softeners which can interfere with
dye uptake.

Refer to colors defined as “Neon” or “SuperBright” as, for example, can be found in highlighter felt pens
NEON COLORS (yellow/lime/pink), bright children’s clothes, cycling apparel. Do not use neon parameters to evaluate colors
that do not correspond to the above description, even if they have optical brightener/fluorescent additives.
DECORATIVE TRIMS / Decorative (Non–Functional) Components include but are not limited to fabric flowers, buttons, bows, beads,
COMPONENTS sequins, rhinestones, plastic flowers, screen prints, pompoms, etc.
FUNCTIONAL TRIMS / Functional Components which are required to work properly to use the product (i.e., button, unbutton)
COMPONENTS include but are not limited to: functional buttons, snaps, rivets, zippers, etc.
2.1.3 TEST APPLICATION KEY

Below is about the abbreviation code using in the category protocols.
CODE PRODUCT CHARACTERISTIC / FIELD ON TRF

x Tested all times under this category
(x) Dependent - reference this column
GD Garment Dye
GW Garment Wash
SW Stonewash, Enzyme Wash
D Sanding, destruction
Prints: include any print applied to garments or cut fabric panels after execution of the fabric stage full package
test. This includes screen prints on garments or fabric panels, heat transfer prints on garments and fabric
P panels, or any other printing method, including an allover print, foil prints, applied to fabric, fabric panels, or
garments after execution of the fabric testing. Fabric-stage prints applied on open-width fabric at textile mill
should be tested in fabric-stage testing before shipment of bulk production.
TD Top dyed
YD Yarn dyed
Special dye this includes: indigo, direct, pigment, sulfur, tinting, dip dye, overdye, Neons (flavine or rhodamine
SD
dyestuff)
FW Fabric Wash by Vendor

2.2 ADDITIONAL TEST INSTRUCTIONS
2.2.1 POINTS OF MEASURE
With reference to Softlines Performance Protocol Appendix 1: Test Laboratory – How to Measure Guidelines:
- Labs should follow the standardized points of measurements when reporting after Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering or
Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning tests.
2.2.2 DIGITAL COLORFASTNESS ASSESSMENT CONVERSION

Digital colorfastness assessment will be used for grading colorfastness test specimens by approved third party labs only using VeriVide
DigiGrade. (Labs must not start the digital assessment until they receive approval from Gap PI.) The table below shows the digital
conversion from the visual grade requirement. For example, if the Gap Inc. Requirement is Visual Grade 3, if the digital reading is > or =
to 2.75 the lab will issue as PASS. However, if the digital reading is < or equal to 2.74 the lab will issue a FAIL. For details refer to Gap Inc.
Digital Color Fastness Assessment Program.
Digital Conversion
Gap Inc. Requirements
[PASS] [FAIL]
5 ≥4.75 ≤ 4.74
4.5 ≥4.25 ≤ 4.24
4 ≥3.75 ≤ 3.74
3.5 ≥3.25 ≤ 3.24
3 ≥2.75 ≤ 2.74
2.5 ≥2.25 ≤ 2.24
2 ≥1.75 ≤ 1.74
1.5 ≥1.25 ≤ 1.24
1 ≥0.75 ≤ 0.74
2.2.3 COLORFASTNESS TO ACCELERATED LAUNDERING (ISO 105-C06)

Use the below chart to determine appropriate temperature, steel ball usage.
ISO Program number Temperature Remark Relevant to AATCC 61 Test Procedure
No steel ball, Sodium perborate

A1S 40 degree C 1A – hand wash
For delicate fiber such as wool, silk
A2S 40 degree C Steel ball for normal cycle in machine wash 1A – machine wash cold
No steel ball, sodium perborate

B1S 50 degree C 2A – machine wash warm, gentle cycle
For delicate fiber such as wool, silk
B2S 50 degree C Steel ball for normal cycle in machine wash 2A – machine wash warm

2.2.4 ABBREVIATION CODE OF SEAM SLIPPAGE AND SEAM STRENGTH
To report Seam Slippage and Seam Strength test results, Lab must use below abbreviation code to indicate the failure mode.
Failure Mode Abbreviation Code Description

NSS No Seam Slippage
FR Fabric Rupture
FTS Fabric Torn At Seam
FRS Fabric Rupture At Seam
STB Sewing Thread Breakage
TB Thread Breakage
YPO Yarn Pull Out
TPO Thread pull out
LR Lace Ruptured
KR Knit Ruptured
ER Elastic Rupture
SF Seam Failure
SD Slider Detached
SS Seam Slippage at 1/4 inch
NST No Seam Strength Noted Due To Seam Slippage Occurring
NYS No Yarn Slippage
2.2.5 DENIM 1HL PREPARED FABRIC AND 3HL PREPARED FABRIC

BULK FABRIC QUALITY submits should be prepared for testing as indicated below:
• For Denim Rigid fabric quality, some tests are performed as received and other tests are performed after 1 or 3 home laundries (1 or 3
HL) respectively. They are termed as "1HL prepared fabric" and "3HL prepared fabric"
How to prepare "1HL prepared fabric" and "3HL prepared fabric":

• 1 HL prepared fabric = 1 wash 1 dry prepared fabric = 1 HL (MWH - 140F), followed by 1 dry (TDM)
• 3 HL prepared fabric = 3 washes 1 dry prepared fabric = 3 HL (MWH - 140F), followed by 1 dry (TDM)
Note:
- If denim is intended to be used as bulk fabric quality in garment form with no garment washing, then this should be indicated in special
instructions of TRF. In these cases, test as-is.
- Dimensional stability is the only test where the bulk fabric quality fabric is tested AS SUBMITTED meaning, we do not 3 HL prepare the
fabric however, it still needs to be washed MWH, TDM. This means, do not use submitted care instructions to test rigid fabric for
dimensional stability, use MWH, TDM as care.
- Garment – test as submitted
2.2.6 SAMPLE SIZE FOR DOWN AND FILL TESTING

DOWN TESTING - SAMPLE SIZE
Default – All markets, with or without China destination (Testing at IDFL down and feather lab)
Pre-Production Stage – Plumage Test: 200 gm down plumages (If product is going to China, send an additional 100gm for a total of 300
gm if China testing is required also at this stage)
Fabric Testing – 2 yards total (1 yard For Air Permeability Test, 1 yard for Down Proof testing)
Garment Production stage –provide 3 pieces of garment samples in size Small, Medium and Large
Additional Sample Size for China destination (Testing at approved China GB Labs)
Any garment for size (0-5 T) or 0-5 years - 2 pieces of each color
Vests – 2 pieces of each color
Other garments – 1 piece of each color
China bound – must add an additional test for down and feather penetration
Garment production: add 1 extra yard plus plumage or 1 extra garment for GB testing down and feather penetration
FILL TESTING - SAMPLE SIZE

Synthetic filled fabrics: minimum 100 grams polyester fill (Vendor must provide this fill option)
Fabric Testing– 2 yards total (1 yard For Air Permeability Test, 1 yard for Fill Proof testing)
Garment Production stage – provide 3 pieces of garment samples

SECTION 3 TEST PACKAGES

Remark:
1. Woven Fabric Development test package (WFD) - initiated by MR & cost to Gap Inc. Mill internal test report is acceptable.
2. Woven Garment Development test package (WGD) - initiated by MR & cost to Gap Inc.
3. If the fabric is washed by the Vendor, the Vendor is responsible to conduct the WFD test package.
4. For Fabric Production Test, submit fabric in same state as shipped from mill to vendor for testing.
5. Test on Request: It is the responsibility of the test submitter to request this test on the test request form
6. For Sew-Free Products (which includes but is not limited to products with bonded/ultrasonic technology) additional tests are required. Refer to the “Sew-Free
Test Group" below. (For Athleta only - submit development fabric to Bemis to determine if the fabric is suitable for bonding/ultrasonic)
Go to Protocol
Fabric Garment
TEST PROPERTY Dev Prod Prod Fabric Dependent Dev Prod Prod Garment Dependent
-Full -Add -Full -Add
Fabric Identification
Fabric Weight x x (x) x GW/GD
Fabric Construction x
(Woven / Denim)
Yarn Size (Woven / Knit) x
Color Durability
Colorfastness to (x) x x Medium and dark colors for BR/BRFS only. (x) (x) (x) Dev
Crocking - Medium and dark colors for BR/BRFS only.
- GD/SD: See Footnote Woven 1
Prod
- FW, GD, SD, P, GW
Colorfastness to x x (x) (x) (x) Dev

Accelerated Laundering - Color block styles, Print
Prod
- FW, GD, SD, P, GW, color blocks
Colorfastness to Non- x x (x) (x) Prod

Chlorine Bleach - FW, GD, SD, P, GW
Colorfastness to Light x x (x) (x) (x) Dev

Prod
- GD, SD, P

Perspiration - GD/SD: See Footnote Woven 1
Prod
- FW, GD, SD, P, GW
Colorfastness to Water (x) (x) Medium and Dark colors (anything except (x) (x) (x) Dev
(Static Wetting) whites or pastels), SD, YD, prints only - Color block styles, Print
Prod
- GD, P, SD, color blocks
Colorfastness to Burnt (x) (x) White color only (x) (x) (x) White color only
Gas Fumes
Colorfastness to Ozone (x) (x) Indigo dye only (x) (x) Indigo dye only
Colorfastness to Phenolic (x) (x) White colored, Chief value nylon fabrics only (x) (x) White colored, Chief value nylon fabrics only
Yellowing (must be both white and CV nylon for this to (must be both white and CV nylon for this to
apply) apply)

Go to Protocol
Fabric Garment
Colorfastness to (x) (x) Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water
Colorfastness to Sea (x) (x) Swimwear Only

Water
Colorfastness to Storage: (x) (x) (x) Applicable to: Refer to Dye Transfer in Storage (x) (x) (x) Applicable to: Refer to Dye Transfer in Storage
Dye Transfer Guidelines and SOP Guidelines and SOP
Footnote Woven 1: GD/SD: Test lightest and darkest cc (Vendors need to review all cc and call out high risk cc and arrange the development test accordingly.
Durability to Home Laundering or Hand Wash or Dry Clean

Dimensional Stability to x x x x x (x) FW, GD, SD, P, GW
Home Laundering
(Woven)
Dimensional Stability to (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF) (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
Commercial Dry Cleaning
General Appearance x x x x x (x) FW, GD, SD, P, GW

Before and After Home
Laundering
General Appearance (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF) (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
Before and After
Torque After Home x x x x x (x) FW, GD, SD, P, GW

Laundering
Torque After Commercial (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF) (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
Dry Cleaning
Durability to Repeated (x) (x) (x) See Footnote 1 (x) (x) (x) See Footnote 1
Laundering
Footnote 1 Including but not limited to:

• Metallic prints
• Foil prints
• Foil Coated Sweaters
• Heat transfers and Heat Transferred Embellishments (Photo Real, Foil, Welds, Crystalline, Glitter, Patches
• Flocking
• Glitter applications, screen prints
• Fragile Trims – Sewn-On / Hot Fix (Beads, Rhinestones, Sequins, Studs, etc..)
• Surface coated fabrics (excluding those with functional coating that are tested under the special claims protocol i.e. water resistant coatings)]
• Novelty prints (For Athleta only)
Physical Durability
Pile Retention (x) (x) All pile fabrics including fur and faux fur
Abrasion Resistance (x), (x), (x) (x) - Velvet, Corduroy (x), (x) (x) (x) - Velvet & Corduroy – FW, GW & GD only
(By Rotary Platform (XX) (XX) (XX) - Performance /Activewear (pile fabric) (XX) (XX) - Performance /Activewear (pile fabric)
Abraser)
Abrasion Resistance (By (x) (x) Performance/Activewear – Non pile fabrics (x) Performance/Activewear - Non pile fabrics
Martindale)
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) Non-Melton (x) (x) (x) Non-Melton and
(By Elastomeric Pad) FW, GW, GD, SW

Go to Protocol
Fabric Garment
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) Melton Only (x) (x) (x) Melton Only and
(By Martindale) FW, GW, GD, SW
Snagging (x) In-scope (x) In-scope

- Filament (polyester/nylon/silk) yarn only AND; - GW, GD
- Fabric: Gauze, Satin, Chiffon, - Filament (polyester/nylon/silk) yarn only AND;
Textured/Jacquard woven - Fabric: Gauze, Satin, Chiffon,
Textured/Jacquard woven
Shedding (x) Test on Request
Stretch and Recovery (x) (x) Stretch fabrics only (x) (x) (x) Stretch Fabrics only and
(Woven) 1 FW, GD, GW, SW
Stretch and Recovery (x) (x) Stretch fabrics only (x) (x) (x) Stretch Fabrics only; and
(Woven) 2 Test when Max. Elongation ≥35% FW, GD, GW, SW;
Test when Max. Elongation ≥35%
Tensile Strength x x x (x) (x) FW, GD, GW, SW
Tensile Strength – After (x) (x) 100% sulphur only (x) (x) (x) 100% sulphur only
Ageing Wax Coated Fabrics [Request Only] Wax Coated Fabrics [Request Only]
Tear Strength x x x (x) (x) FW, GD, GW, SW
Tear Strength – After (x) (x) 100% sulphur only (x) (x) (x) 100% sulphur Only
Ageing Wax Coated Fabrics [Optional - Request Only] Wax Coated Fabrics [Optional - Request Only]
Garment Constructions
Seam Slippage x x x x (x) FW, GW, GD, SW
Seam Strength x x x x (x) FW, GW, GD, SW
Seam Slippage and Seam (x) (x) Test if present

Strength of Pocketing
Fabric
Seam Stretchability (x) (x) (x) Bottoms having any content of elastomeric fiber
in lengthwise
Belt Loop Attachment (x) (x) Test if present

Strength
Pocket Attachment (x) (x) Test if present

Strength
Neck Stretch Fit (x) (x) Kids and Baby only
Resistance to (x) (x) Test if present

Unsnapping of Snap
Fasteners
Button Attachment (x) (x) Test if present (Adult only)

Strength
Snap Attachment (x) (x) Test if present (Adult only)

Strength
Small Parts Attachment (x) (x) Test if present (Adult only)

Strength

Go to Protocol
Fabric Garment
Chemical
pH Value (Textile) x x (x) (x) FW, GW, SW, GD, P
pH value (Textile) - After (x) (x) 100% sulphur only (x) (x) 100% sulphur only
Ageing
Test on Request
Sublimation Test (x) (x) Request Only – Request directed by GIS PI
Contents consisting of 100% polyester or CV
polyester product that is: dispersed dyed and
color blocked, Medium and Dark color only
(anything except whites and pastels), IP
(intimates and Performance) and OW
(outerwear) only
Sew-Free
General Appearance (x) (x) (x) Sew-Free Garment -
Before and After All bonded sections
Laundering
(Sew-Free)
Seam Strength of (x) (x) (x) Sew-Free Garment

Bonded seams - Test actual garment bonded seam
T-Peel Test (x) Sew-Free Garment

- Test as a garment mock up
- Overlapped seam only
Reflective tape (x) (x) (x) Sew-Free Garment

Stretchability - Bonded seam with reflective tape
Stretching Performance (x) Sew-Free Garment

of Bonded Seam - Bonded waist band & high stress area on pants
only (seat & knee)
Shear Strength of (x) (x) (x) Sew-Free Garment

Bonded Seam - Test is applied for overlapped bonded seam on
the bottom of the patched pocket or equivalent
constructions, such as semi-glove on the sleeve
which hands may insert and shear open the
seam
Strap Attachment (Strap (x) Sew-free Garment

to Cup or other Location) - Test if present on the garment


Remark:
1. DFD - Denim Fabric Development test package - initiated by MR & cost to Gap Inc. Mill internal test report is acceptable.
2. DGD - Denim Garment Development test package - initiated by MR & cost to Gap Inc
3. Full garment development package testing is mandatory for high risk styles, i.e. aggressive wash, resin dipping, over-dyed black and tinted faded denim.
4. 1HL prepared fabric & 3HL prepared fabric, refer to Section 2 for details.
Go to Protocol
Denim Fabric Denim Garment
Dev - Test Dev - Dev - Dev - Gap Prod - Test Prod - Prod - Fabric Dependent Dev Gmt Prod - Garment Dependent
as Test Test Brand Only as Test Test (Approved Garment
Received after 1 after 3 (Medium/ Received after 1 after 3 wash) /Washe
HL HL (3 Enzyme / HL (1 HL HL (3 d Fabric
TEST PROPERTY
(1HL washes 1 Stone/ prepare washes 1
prepare dry Bleach) d fabric) dry
d fabric) prepare prepare
d d fabric)
fabric*)
Fabric Weight x x x x x x x
Fabric Construction x
(Woven / Denim)
Color Durability
Colorfastness to x (x) x (xx) x Dev x x
Crocking - If Failure occurs for either dry or
wet crocking, test after 3HL
Prod
- (xx) - fabric for “non wash” garment
Colorfastness to (xx) (xx) - fabric for “non wash” garment x

Accelerated
Laundering
Colorfastness to Non- (xx) x (xx) - fabric for “non wash” garment x

Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Light (xx) x (xx) - fabric for “non wash” garment x
Colorfastness to (xx) x (xx) - fabric for “non wash” garment x

Perspiration
Colorfastness to (xx) x (xx) - fabric for “non wash” garment x

Water (Static
Wetting)
Colorfastness to (x) White only (x) White only

Burnt Gas Fumes
Colorfastness to (x) (x) and (x) (x) Indigo Dye only (x) (x) Indigo dye only
Ozone (xx) (XX) fabric for “non wash” garment

Dimensional Stability x x x x x
to Home Laundering
(Denim)
Dimensional Stability (x) Dry clean only (selected on the

to Commercial Dry TRF)
Cleaning
General Appearance (xx) (xx) - fabric for “non wash” garment x x

Before and After
Home Laundering

Go to Protocol
TEST PROPERTY
d d fabric)
fabric*)
General Appearance (x) Dry clean only (selected on the
Before and After TRF)
Commercial Dry
Cleaning
Torque After Home x

Laundering
Torque After (x) Dry clean only (selected on the

Commercial Dry TRF)
Cleaning
Skew Movement x x x
Durability to (x) See Footnote 1 (x) See Footnote 1

Repeated Laundering
• Metallic prints
• Foil prints
• Flocking
Physical Durability
Abrasion Resistance (x) (x) (xx) (x) Fiber contents: All types of CV (x) (x) Fiber contents: All types of CV
(By Martindale) Regenerated Cellulosic contents (not Regenerated Cellulosic contents
inclusive of CV cotton, but including (not inclusive of CV cotton, but
Tencel and Modal) including Tencel and Modal)
Constructions/Dyes: Twill and plain Constructions/Dyes: Twill and
weave dyed with 100% indigo dye or plain weave dyed with 100%
Indigo dye/sulphur or sulphur in indigo dye or Indigo dye/sulphur
warp yarn or sulphur in warp yarn
(xx) - fabric for “non wash” garment
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (xx) (x) Woven Denim - (x) (x) Woven Denim -
(By Elastomeric Pad) Cotton/Polyester/Regenerated Cotton/Polyester/Regenerated
Cellulose blends only and rayon Cellulose blends only and rayon
content must be ≥10% content must be ≥10%
(xx) - fabric for “non wash” garment
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) (x) Knit Denim (x) (x) Knit Denim
(By Random Tumble)
Bursting Strength (x) (x) (x) (x) Knit Denim (x) (x) Knit Denim
Bursting Strength - (x) (x) (x) (x) Knit Denim AND (x) (x) Knit Denim AND
After Ageing Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100% Sulfur Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100%
only] Sulfur only]
Stretch and Recovery (x) (x) (x) and (x) (x) - All woven denims containing (x) (x) (x) All woven denims containing
(Denim) 1 (xx) elastomeric fibers and/or polyester elastomeric fibers and/or
filament yarns, nylon filament yarns polyester filament yarns, nylon
or other filament yarns; filament yarns or other filament
yarns;
(xx) - Fabric for “non wash” garment
(xx) - fabric for “non wash”
garment

Go to Protocol
TEST PROPERTY
d d fabric)
fabric*)
Stretch and Recovery (x) (x) (x) and (x) Test when Max. Elongation ≥35% (x) (x) Test when Max. Elongation ≥35%
(Denim) 2 (xx) (x) All woven denims containing (x) All woven denims containing
elastomeric fibers and/or polyester elastomeric fibers and/or
filament yarns, nylon filament yarns polyester filament yarns, nylon
or other filament yarns; filament yarns or other filament
yarns;
(xx) - fabric for “non wash” garment.
(xx) - fabric for “non wash”
garment
Stretch and Recovery (x) Knit Denim fabrics and garments of: (x) (x) Knit Denim fabrics and garments
(Knit with Elastomeric - <10% elastomeric fiber (except of:
Yarn) 1 Swimwear and Intimates) - <10% elastomeric fiber (except
- ALL Kids/Baby products with Swimwear and Intimates)
elastomeric fiber any % (excluding - ALL Kids/Baby products with
GapFit/Performance/Active) elastomeric fiber any % (excluding
GapFit/Performance/Active)
Stretch and Recovery (x) Knit Denim fabrics and garments (x) (x) Knit Denim fabrics and garments
(Knit with Elastomeric ≥10% elastomeric fiber ≥10% elastomeric fiber
Yarn) 2
Tensile Strength x x (xx) x (xx) - fabric for “non wash” garment x x
Tensile Strength – (x) (x) (xx) (x) - Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100% (x) (x) Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100%
After Ageing Sulfur only Sulfur only
- Coated Fabrics - Request Only –
Fabric Stage] - See Footnote Denim 1
(xx) - Fabric for “Non wash” garment
Tear Strength x x (xx) x (xx) - fabric for “non wash” garment x x
Tear Strength – After (x) (x) (xx) (x) Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100% Sulfur (x) (x) Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100%
Ageing only Sulfur only
[Coated Fabrics - Request only –
Fabric Stage] - See Footnote Denim 1
(xx) - Fabric for “Non wash” Garment
Footnote Denim 1 Does not include functional coatings such as water resistant coatings, which are covered under their specific testing. Please see the special claims protocol for
testing on functional coated
Seam Slippage x x x x
Seam Strength x x x x
Seam Slippage and (x) (x) Test if applicable

Seam Strength of
Pocketing Fabric
Strap Attachment
(Strap to Cup)
Seam Stretchability (x) (x) Knit Denim

Strength

Go to Protocol
TEST PROPERTY
d d fabric)
fabric*)
Pocket Stress Area (x) (x) Woven Denim, test if back pocket
is present;
Not applicable for Knit Denim
Strength

Unsnapping of Snap
Fasteners
Strength

Strength
Small Parts (x) (x) Test if present (Adult only)

Attachment Strength
Chemical
pH Value (Textile) x x x x
pH value (Textile) - (x) (x) Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100% Sulfur (x) (x) Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100%
After Ageing only Sulfur only


Remark:
1. KFD – Knit Fabric Development test package – initiated by MR & cost to Gap Inc. Mill internal test report is acceptable.
2. KGD – Knit Garment Development test package – initiated by MR & cost to Gap Inc
3. If the fabric is washed by the Vendor, the Vendor is responsible to conduct the KFD test package
4. Must have separate garment development package testing for heathers, garment dye/wash development
5. For Fabric Production Test, submit fabric in same state as shipped from mill to vendor for testing.
6. Test on Request: It is the responsibility of the test submitter to request this test on the test request form.
7. For Sew-Free Products (which includes but is not limited to products with bonded/ultrasonic technology) additional tests are required. Refer to the “Sew-Free
Test Group" below. (For Athleta only - submit developmentfabric to Bemis to determine if the fabric is suitable for bonding/ultrasonic)
Go to Protocol
Fabric Garment
Fabric Weight x x x x x x
Fabric Construction x x
(Knit)
Yarn Size (Woven / Knit) x (x) Test total of 1 light and 1 dark color total
between fabric full and fabric additional
colorways
Stitch Length x x
Tightness Factor (x) (x) Jersey, rib and interlock constructions only
without spandex
Color Durability
Crocking - SD, GD
Prod
- GD, SD, P, Medium and Dark colors

Accelerated Laundering - Color block styles, SD, GD
Prod
- GD, SD
Colorfastness to Non- x x (x) (x) GD, SD

Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Light x x (x) (x) (x) Dev

- SD, GD
Prod
- GD, SD, P

Perspiration - Color block styles, SD, GD
Prod
- GD, P
Colorfastness to Water (x) (x) Medium and Dark colors, YD, prints (x) (x) (x) Dev
(Static Wetting) - Color block styles, SD, GD
Prod
- Color block styles, SD, GD, P
Colorfastness to Burnt (x) (x) White color only (x) (x) White color only
Gas Fumes
Colorfastness to Ozone (x) (x) (x) Indigo dye only (x) (x) (x) Indigo dye only
apply) apply)

Go to Protocol
Fabric Garment
Colorfastness to (x) (x) Swimwear Only
Colorfastness to Sea (x) (x) Swimwear Only
Water
Liquid Staining of (x) (x) (x) Dark colors for China Market JAC order only (x) (x) (x) Dark colors for China Market JAC order only
Colorfastness to Soaking

Dimensional Stability to x x x x x x
Home Laundering (Knit)
Dimensional Stability to (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF) (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
General Appearance x x x x x x
Before and After Home
Laundering
General Appearance (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF) (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
Before and After
Torque After Home x x x x x x

Laundering
Torque After Commercial (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF) (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
Dry Cleaning
Durability to Repeated (x) (x) (x) See Footnote 1 (x) (x) (x) See Footnote 1
Laundering
• Metallic prints
• Foil prints
• Flocking
Physical Durability
Pile Retention (x) (x) All pile fabrics including fur and faux fur
Abrasion Resistance (x) (x) Request only (x) (x) Request only
(Athleta Swimwear) - For Swimwear – Athleta only - For Swimwear – Athleta only
Abrasion Resistance (x) Request only (x) Request only

(Modified with Garment – FW, GW, GD, SW Garment – FW, GW, GD, SW
Stretching) For surface designs/coatings, For surface designs/coatings,
(excluding those with functional coating that are (excluding those with functional coating that are
tested under the special claims protocol e.g. tested under the special claims protocol e.g.
water resistant coatings) water resistant coatings)
Pilling Resistance x x x x x x
(By Random Tumble)
Bursting Strength x x (x) (x) (x) FW, GW, GD, SW
Bursting Strength - After (x) (x) 100% Sulfur Only (x) (x) (x) 100% Sulfur Only
Ageing

Go to Protocol
Fabric Garment
Snagging (x) (x) Yarn: Filament, Texturized yarn (x) (x) Request only –
Construction: Raised/Uneven surface (excluding - Yarn: Filament, Texturized yarn
tufted/pile surface fabrics), Float yarns - Construction: Raised/Uneven surface
(excluding tufted/pile surface fabrics), Float
For Old Navy only - Test on Development Fabric yarns
- If the Mill / Vendor / Development team call
For Other bands out there is a snagging risk
- Request only
out there is a snagging risk
Shedding (x) Fleece (Only fibers contents that are blended or

100% polyester with recycled content) & Sherpa
& (Faux Fur – For Gap brand only)
Stretch and Recovery (x) (x) (x) Without Spandex or Elastomeric Yarn (x) (x) FW, GW, GD, SW, AND
(Knit without Without Spandex or Elastomeric Yarn
Elastomeric Yarn) Add Color: High performance only (High
performance is specifically requested on TRF
Stretch and Recovery (x) (x) (x) - Knit <10% elastomeric fiber (except Swimwear (x) (x) FW, GW, GD, SW, AND
(Knit with Elastomeric and Intimates) - Knit <10% elastomeric fiber (except Swimwear
Yarn) 1 - ALL Kids/Baby products with elastomeric fiber and Intimates)
any % (excluding GapFit/Performance/Active) - ALL Kids/Baby products with elastomeric fiber
any % (excluding GapFit/Performance/Active)
Add Color: High performance only (High
Stretch and Recovery (x) (x) (x) - Knit ≥10% elastomeric fiber or (x) (x) FW, GW, GD, SW, AND
(Knit with Elastomeric - Swimwear with elastomeric fiber - Knit ≥10% elastomeric fiber or
Yarn) 2 - Swimwear with elastomeric fiber
Add Color: High performance only (High
performance is specifically requested on TRF Add Color: High performance only (High
Seam Stretchability x x
Seam Strength (x) Knit Mix Media Garments

Strength
Strength

Unsnapping of Snap
Fasteners
Strength
Strength
Strength
Chemical
pH Value (Textile) x x (x) (x) FW, GW, SW, GD, P, conduct if not tested in
Fabric Stage
pH value (Textile) - After (x) (x) 100% sulphur only (x) (x) 100% sulphur only
Ageing

Go to Protocol
Fabric Garment
Down and Fill Testing
Down Proof (x) (x) Down Proof Products
Fill Proof (x) (x) Fill Proof Products
Test on Request
Sheerness Properties of (x) Yoga Pants only
Textile Fabrics
Sublimation Test (x) (x) (x) Test on Request Only – Request directed by GIS
PI
(outerwear) only
Graphic Stretch Test (x) Request only. (x) Request only.

Applicable to any print on a stretch fabric. Applicable to any print on a stretch fabric.
Sew-Free
General Appearance (x) (x) (x) Sew-Free Garment -
Before and After All bonded sections
Laundering
(Sew-Free)
Seam Strength of (x) (x) (x) Sew-Free Garment

Bonded seams - Test actual garment bonded seam
T-Peel Test (x) Sew-Free Garment

- Test as a garment mock up
- Overlapped seam only
Reflective tape (x) (x) (x) Sew-Free Garment

Stretchability - Bonded seam with reflective tape
Stretching Performance (x) Sew-Free Garment

of Bonded Seam - Bonded waist band & high stress area on pants
only (seat & knee)
Shear Strength of (x) (x) (x) Sew-Free Garment

Bonded Seam - Test is applied for overlapped bonded seam on
the bottom of the patched pocket or equivalent
constructions, such as semi-glove on the sleeve
which hands may insert and shear open the
seam
Strap Attachment (Strap (x) Sew-free Garment

to Cup or other Location) - Test if present on the garment


Remark:
1. This protocol covers the minimum performance requirements only. If during development, it is identified that additional properties should be tested, please
contact COE PI (charlotte_murrells@gap.com)
2. Fabric development teams should request for in-house fabric moldability reports (where needed i.e. if a fabric will be molded for bra styles as not all fabrics can
be molded)
3. (xx): Fit for Purpose Testing
4. Fit For Purpose Test - Default wash and dry instruction: Machine Wash Warm, Tumble Dry Low
5. FD – Fabric Development test package – initiated by MR & cost to Gap Inc. Mill internal test report is acceptable.
6. GD – Garment Development test package – initiated by MR & cost to Gap Inc
Go to Protocol
Fabric Garment
Fabric Weight x x (x) High performance only for additional colorways
(High performance is specifically requested on
TRF)
Fabric Construction (x) Knit Intimate

(Knit)
Fabric Construction (x) Woven Intimate
(Woven / Denim)
Color Durability
Colorfastness to x x (x) (x) GD, SD, P
Crocking
Accelerated Laundering - Color block
Prod
- Color block, GD, SD, P
Colorfastness to Non- x x (x) (x) GD, SD

Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Light x x (x) (x) GD, SD

Perspiration - Color block
Prod
Colorfastness to Water x x (x) (x) (x) Dev
(Static Wetting) - Color block
Prod
Colorfastness to Burnt (x) (x) (x) White only (xx) (x) (x) Dev
Gas Fumes - (X) - White only
- (xx) - Fit for Purpose Testing. White color only
Prod
- White only
Colorfastness to Ozone (x) (x) Indigo dye only (x) (x) Indigo dye only
apply) apply)
Colorfastness to (x) (x) Swimwear only

Colorfastness to Sea (x) (x) Swimwear only

Water

Go to Protocol
Fabric Garment
Dimensional Stability to x x x (xx) x x Fit for Purpose Testing - See Footnote Intimate
Home Laundering 1
(Intimate)
General Appearance x x x (xx) x x Fit for Purpose Testing - See Footnote Intimate
Before and After Home 1
Laundering (Intimate)
Torque After Home x x x (xx) x x Fit for Purpose Testing - See Footnote Intimate
Laundering (Intimate) 1
Durability to Repeated (x) Sew-Free Garment -

Laundering and Full bonded back wings of bra, bonded side
Stretching seam/leg holes/waistband of panties, bonded
waistband of bottom, any high stress bonded
area to be confirmed at development stage
Footnote Intimate 1 Fit for Purpose Testing

Laminated Pads: Only perform on new foams and/or existing foams in new shapes/silhouettes (in 34B or as requested)
For lightly lined silhouettes and/ main fabric may have a high shrinkage after wash, the fit for purpose garments will need to add in a D cup or the
largest size that is available.
Physical Durability
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Woven Intimate (x) (x) (x) Woven Intimate of FW, GW, GD, SW
(By Elastomeric Pad)
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Knit Intimate (x) (x) (x) Knit Intimate of FW, GW, GD, SW
(By Random Tumble)
Bursting Strength (x) (x) Knit Intimate (x) (x) (x) Knit Intimate: FW, GW, GD, SW, or garments
with single layer
Snagging (x) (x) Request only - (x) Request only -

Woven and knitted fabrics made from textured/ Woven and knitted fabrics of (FW, GW, GD, SW)
untextured filament yarns or spun yarns or made from textured/ untextured filament yarns
combinations of these yarns. Certain fabric or spun yarns or combinations of these yarns.
structures with long float yarn e.g. satin and Certain fabric structures with long float yarn e.g.
sateen satin and sateen
Stretch and Recovery (x) (x) (x)* Intimates with elastomeric fiber (x) (x) Dev
(Knit with Elastomeric (x)* High performance only for additional - Intimates with elastomeric fiber, and GD, SW
Yarn) 2 colorways (High performance is specifically
requested on TRF) Prod
- Intimates with elastomeric fiber, and FW, GW,
GD, SW
Tensile Strength (x) (x) Woven Intimate (x) (x) Dev

- Woven Intimate of (FW, GD, GW, Wrinkle
Free)
Prod
- Woven Intimate of (FW, GD, GW SW)
Tear Strength (x) (x) Woven Intimate (x) (x) Dev

- Woven Intimate of (FW, GD, GW, Wrinkle
Free)
Prod
- Woven Intimate of (FW, GD, GW SW)

Go to Protocol
Fabric Garment
Seam Strength (x) (x) Woven Intimate (x) (x) Woven Intimate
Seam Strength of (x) (x) (x) Bonded/Ultrasonic seams

Bonded/Ultrasonic
Seams
Bra Hook to Eye Pull Out (x) (x) Dev
Strength - Fit for Purpose Testing
- Test if present
Prod
- Test if present
Seam Strength of Center (x) (x) Bras (Key Fit Sizes i.e. 34B, 36C and 36DD or as
Front Joining on a Bra requested)
(Cup to Cup)
Strap Attachment (Strap (x) (x) Dev

to Cup) - Fit for Purpose Testing
- Bras (Key Fit Sizes i.e. 34B, 36C and 36DD or as
requested)
Prod
- Bras (Key Fit Sizes i.e. 34B, 36C and 36DD or as
requested)
Seam Stretchability (x) (x) Knit Intimate
Bond Strength (x) Bonded/Laminated parts (x) (x) (x) Bonded/Laminated parts
Test as a garment mock up Recommended colors for development testing
White (or lightest), Black (or darkest) and
medium or dark shades of red. Test on all
finishes.
Belt Loop Attachment (x) Test if present

Strength
Pocket Attachment (x) Test if present
Strength
Resistance to (x) Test if present
Unsnapping of Snap
Fasteners
Button Attachment (x) Test if present (Adult only)
Strength
Snap Attachment (x) Test if present (Adult only)
Strength
Small Parts Attachment (x) (x) Dev
Strength - Fit for Purpose Testing
- Test if present (Adult only)
Prod
- Test if present (Adult only)
Chemical
pH Value (Textile) x x (x) (x) FW, GW, SW, GD, P, conduct if not tested in
Fabric Stage
pH value (Textile) - After (x) (x) 100% Sulfur Only (x) (x) 100% Sulfur Only
Ageing

Go to Protocol
Fabric Garment
Test on Request
Sublimation Test (X) (X) Request directed by GIS PI
(outerwear) only.
Bra Band Elongation (x) (X) See Footnote Intimate 2
Waist Band Elongation (x) (X) See Footnote Intimate 2
Footnote Intimate 2 Including but not limited to bra styles with bonding on the wing part/ one piece bras/ panties with bonding/flocking on the waist band. Only perform
on new developments and fit approved garments.
Bonding along only the top edge or along only the bottom edge of back wing part of bras are out of testing scope.


Remark:
1. SYD - Sweater Yarn Development test package - initiated by MR & cost to Gap Inc
2. SFD - Sweater Fabric Knit down Development test package - initiated by MR & cost to Gap Inc
3. SGD - Sweater Garment Development test package - initiated by MR & cost to Gap Inc
Go to Protocol
Yarn / Fabric Garment
Dev - Dev - Prod - Fabric Dependent Dev Prod Prod Garment Dependent
Yarn Fabric Yarn (SGD) -Full -Add
TEST PROPERTY
(SYD) Knit
Down
(SFD)
Yarn Identification
Yarn Size (Sweater) x x Dev
- Yarn supplier nominated by Gap
Yarn Twist x x Dev

Single Yarn Strength x x Dev

Yarn Hairiness (x) (x) Test except fancy yarn
Dev
Yarn Irregularity (x) (x) Test except fancy yarn
Dev
Fiber Diameter (x) (x) Wool and animal hairs only
Oil Content (x) (x) Products made from wool and animal hairs (x) (x) Products made from wool and animal hairs
and their blends only; and their blends only
Request only
Color Durability
Colorfastness to x x
Crocking
Accelerated Laundering
Colorfastness to Non- x x
Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Light x x
Perspiration
Colorfastness to Water (x) (x) Medium-Dark Colors, color blocking, P, GD, SD
(Static Wetting)
Colorfastness to Burnt (x) (x) White color only
Gas Fumes
Colorfastness to Ozone (x) (x) Indigo dye only
Colorfastness to Storage: (x) Applicable to: Refer to Dye Transfer in Storage (x) (x) (x) Applicable to: Refer to Dye Transfer in Storage

Go to Protocol
TEST PROPERTY
(SYD) Knit
Down
(SFD)
Dimensional Stability to x Confirm the preliminary wash label as fiber x x
Home Laundering content accounting
(Sweater)
Dimensional Stability to (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
General Appearance x Confirm the preliminary wash label as fiber x x

Before and After Home content accounting
Laundering
General Appearance (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
Before and After
Torque After Home x Confirm the preliminary wash label as fiber x x

Laundering content accounting
Torque After Commercial (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
Dry Cleaning
Durability to Repeated (x) (x) See Footnote 1

Laundering
• Metallic prints
• Foil prints
• Flocking
Physical Durability
Pile Retention (x) Request only (x) Request only
Yarn Type: including but are not limited to Yarn Type: including but are not limited to
Chenille, Air Spun Chainette, Roving, Eyelash Chenille, Air Spun Chainette, Roving, Eyelash
Yarn, Feather Yarn. Yarn, Feather Yarn.
Abrasion Resistance (x) Raised surface fabrics

(By Rotary Platform
Abraser)
Pilling Resistance x x x
(By ICI Pilling Box)
Bursting Strength x
Snagging (x) Request only –

- Yarn: Filament, Texturized yarn
- Construction: Raised/Uneven surface
(excluding tufted/pile surface fabrics), Float
yarns
out there is a snagging risk
Shedding (x) (x) ≥25% Wool and Animal Hairs, Recycled (x) ≥25% Wool and Animal Hairs, Recycled
Polyester, Rayon, Silk Polyester, Rayon, Silk
Yarn Type: including but are not limited to Yarn Type: including but are not limited to
Chenille, Air Spun Chainette, Roving, Eyelash Chenille, Air Spun Chainette, Roving, Eyelash
Yarn, Feather Yarn Yarn, Feather Yarn

Go to Protocol
TEST PROPERTY
(SYD) Knit
Down
(SFD)
Seam Stretchability (x) x 14-16GG / Off gauge tension/high risk yarn
quality
Pocket Attachment (x) Test if present

Strength
Neck Stretch Fit (x) Kids and Baby only

Unsnapping of Snap
Fasteners
Button Attachment (x) Test if present (Adult only)

Strength
Strength
Small Parts Attachment (x) Test if present (Adult only)
Strength
Top Stop Attachment (x) Test if present
Strength of Open End
Zippers (Open End
Zippers only)
Chemical
pH Value (Textile) x x


Go to Protocol
Leather Finish Hide Leather Finished Product
TEST PROPERTY Dev Prod Dependent Dev Prod Dependent
Color Durability
Colorfastness to Crocking x x
Colorfastness to Light x x x x
Colorfastness to (x) (x) Lining only

Perspiration

Dimensional Stability to x x
Professional Leather
Cleaning
General Appearance x x
After Professional
Leather Cleaning
Physical Durability
Tear Strength (Leather) x x x x
Water Spotting (x) (x) Aniline Only
Flex Resistance (x) (x) Pigment Only
Functional Seam x x
Strength
Belt Loop Attachment x x
Strength
Pocket Attachment x x
Strength
Unsnapping of Snap
Fasteners

Strength
Strength
Strength
Chemical
pH Value (Leather) x x


3.7.1 SOCKS TEST PACKAGE
Remark:
Go to Protocol
Finished Product (Socks)
TEST PROPERTY Dev - Full Prod Prod Dependent
(Athleta Only) -Full -Add
Color Durability
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach x x
Colorfastness to Perspiration x x
Colorfastness to Water (Static (x) (x) YD, P

Wetting)

General Appearance Before and x x x
After Home Laundering
Physical Durability
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Request only
(By Random Tumble)
Shedding (x) (x) (x) Request only
Small Parts Attachment Strength (x) (x) (x) Test if present (Adult only)
Chemical
pH Value (Textile) x x x
Fit
Fit Properties (Socks) x x

3.7.2 TIGHTS TEST PACKAGE

Go to Protocol
Finished Product (Tights)
TEST PROPERTY Prod - Full Prod Dependent
- Add
Colorfastness to Perspiration
Colorfastness to Water (Static Wetting) (x) (x) YD, P

Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (Tights) x x
General Appearance Before and After Home x x

Laundering
Physical Durability
Abrasion Resistance (By Inflated Diaphragm) x x
Pilling Resistance x
(By Random Tumble)
Bursting Strength (x) (x) GW, GD, SW
Small Parts Attachment Strength (x) (x) Test if present (Adult only)
Chemical

3.7.3 GLOVES TEST PACKAGE

Go to Protocol
Finished Product (Gloves)
Fabric Weight x x
Color Durability
Colorfastness to Accelerated x x
Laundering
Colorfastness to Water (Static x x

Wetting)
Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes (x) (x) White color only

Dimensional Stability to Home x x x
Laundering (Textile Accessories)
Dimensional Stability to Commercial (x) (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Before and (x) (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
After Commercial Dry Cleaning
Physical Durability
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Non-Melton Woven Gloves
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Melton Gloves
(By Martindale)
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Knit Gloves -Required
(By Random Tumble) Sweater Yarn Gloves - Request only
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Sweater Yarn Gloves

Bursting Strength (x) (x) Knit Gloves
Shedding (x) (x) (x) Knit:

Fleece (only fibers contents that are blended or 100% polyester with
recycled content) & Sherpa
Sweater Yarn:
- ≥25% Wool and Animal Hairs, Recycled Polyester, Rayon, Silk
- Yarn Type: including but are not limited to Chenille, Air Spun
Chainette, Roving, Eyelash Yarn, Feather Yarn
Woven:
Heavy Brush woven items
Tensile Strength (x) (x) Woven Gloves
Tear Strength (x) (x) Knit Gloves

Go to Protocol
Seam Strength (x) (x) Woven Gloves
Seam Stretchability (x) (x) (x) Knit Gloves
Resistance to Unsnapping of Snap (x) (x) (x) Test if present

Fasteners
Button Attachment Strength (x) (x) (x) Test if present (Adult only)

Snap Attachment Strength (x) (x) (x) Test if present (Adult only)
Top Stop Attachment Strength of (x) (x) (x) Test if present

Open End Zippers (Open End Zippers
only)
Grip (x) (x) (x) Latex Gloves only
Chemical
Fit
Fit - Fingers and Arm (Gloves) (x) (x) (x) Latex gloves only

3.7.4 BIBS TEST PACKAGE

Go to Protocol
Finished Product (Bibs)
TEST PROPERTY Prod - Full Prod Dependent
- Add
Fabric Weight x
Color Durability
Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering x x
Colorfastness to Water (Static Wetting) x x
Colorfastness to Ozone (x) (x) Indigo dye Only

Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (Textile x x
Accessories)
Dimensional Stability to Commercial Dry Cleaning (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)

Laundering
General Appearance Before and After Commercial (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
Dry Cleaning
Physical Durability
Bursting Strength (x) Knit Bib
Tensile Strength (x) Woven Bib
Tear Strength (x) Woven Bib
Seam Strength (x) Woven Bib
Seam Stretchability (x) Knit Bib
Chemical

3.7.5 SCARVES TEST PACKAGE

Remark:
Go to Protocol
Finished Product (Scarves)
Fabric Weight x x
Color Durability
Laundering

Wetting)

Dry Cleaning
Physical Durability
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Non-Melton Woven Scarves
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Melton Scarves
(By Martindale)
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Knit Scarves: required
(By Random Tumble) Sweater Yarn Scarves: Request only
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Sweater Yarn Scarves

Bursting Strength (x) (x) Knit Scarves

recycled content) & Sherpa
Sweater Yarn:
Woven:
Tensile Strength (x) (x) Woven Scarves
Tear Strength (x) (x) Woven Scarves

Go to Protocol
Finished Product (Scarves)
Seam Strength (x) Woven scarves
Seam Stretchability (x) (x) Knit Scarves
Resistance to Unsnapping of Snap (x) (x) (x) Test is present

Fasteners
Top Stop Attachment Strength of (x) (x) (x) Test is present

only)
Chemical

3.7.6 HATS TEST PACKAGE

Remark:
Go to Protocol
Finished Product (Hats)
Fabric Weight x x
Color Durability
Laundering

Wetting)
Colorfastness to Ozone (x) (x) Indigo dye Only

Dry Cleaning
Physical Durability
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Non-Melton Woven Hat
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Melton Hat
(By Martindale)
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Knit Hat: required
(By Random Tumble) Sweater Yarn Hat: Request only
Pilling Resistance (x) (x) (x) Sweater Yarn Hat

Bursting Strength (x) (x) Knit Hat

recycled content) & Sherpa]
Sweater Yarn:
Woven:
Tensile Strength (x) (x) Woven Hat
Tear Strength (x) (x) Woven Hat

Go to Protocol
Finished Product (Hats)
Seam Strength (x) (x) Woven Hat
Seam Stretchability (x) (x) Knit Hat
Resistance to Unsnapping of Snap (x) (x) (x) Test is present

Fasteners
Top Stop Attachment Strength of (x) (x) (x) Test is present

only)
Adjustable Strap Anchoring Strength x x x
Chemical
Mold Count (x) (x) (x) Straw Hats Only

3.7.7 TIES TEST PACKAGE

Go to Protocol
Finished Product (Ties)
TEST PROPERTY Prod Prod Dependent
-Full -Add
Fabric Weight x
Color Durability

Laundering
General Appearance Before and After Commercial (x) (x) Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)
Dry Cleaning
Clasping Durability (x) (x) Clips for Clip on Neck ties only

3.7.8 TEXTILE EYE MASKS TEST PACKAGE

Go to Protocol
Finished Product (Textiles Eye Masks)
TEST PROPERTY Prod Prod Dependent
-Full -Add
Color Durability
Colorfastness to Water (Static Wetting) x x

Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (Textile x x
Accessories)
Laundering
Physical Durability
Effect of Humidity (x) Metal Component only
Mask to Strap Seam Strength x
Strap Elasticity x
Trim Attachment Strength x
Chemical
Fit
Fit Properties (Eye Mask) x

3.7.9 SWEAT BANDS TEST PACKAGE

Remark:
Go to Protocol
Finished Product (Sweat Bands)
Color Durability

Wetting)

Durability to Repeated Laundering (x) (x) (x) See Footnote 1

• Metallic prints
• Foil prints
• Flocking
• Surface coated fabrics (excluding those with functional coating that are tested under the special claims protocol
i.e. water resistant coatings)]
Resistance to Unsnapping of Snap (x) (x) Test is present

Fasteners
Button Attachment Strength (x) (x) Test if present (Adult only)
Snap Attachment Strength (x) (x) Test if present (Adult only)
Strength Properties (x) (x) Elastic Only

[Elastic Only-At Joining Area –
Circumference-Inches]
Strength Properties (x) (x) Elastic Only
[Elastic Only-At Band Area]
Chemical
Fit
Fit Properties (Sweat Band) (x) (x) Elastic Only

STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE - SIZE AND COLORS:
• If there are varying sizes, only one size is required to be tested
• One CC is only required for physical properties to be tested, multiple colorways are not required for physical properties,
please see protocol for additional colorway testing that is required
• Consult your local PI with questions
Go to Protocol
TEST PROPERTY Trim - Full Trim - Add Trim Dependent
3.8.1 ALL TRIMS
General Appearance Before and to Home x x
Laundering (Trims)
General Appearance Before and After (x) (x) Excluding Intimate Apparel trims and Pre-made Pad
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (x) (x) Swimwear Only
Colorfastness to Sea Water (x) (x) Swimwear Only
3.8.2 ELASTICS, WOVEN LABEL, TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, WEBBING, TEXTILE APPLIQUÉ/
EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES, PRINTS, PLASTIC BEADS OR SEQUINS ON APPLIQUES, TAGLESS LABEL PRINTS
Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering x x
Colorfastness to Water (Static Wetting) (x) (x) Medium to Dark colors
Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes (x) (x) White Color only
Colorfastness to Ozone (x) (x) Indigo dye only
Colorfastness to Phenolic Yellowing (x) (x) White colored, Chief value nylon fabrics only (must be both white
and CV nylon for this to apply)
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering x

(Trims)
Dimensional Stability to Commercial Dry Cleaning x
Durability to Repeated Laundering (x) (x) Test on fabric / garment mock-up

See Footnote 1
Bursting Strength (x) Lace only
Stretch & Recovery (Trims) (x) Elastics Only
Tensile Strength (x) Rigid tape or stretch elastic less than 10% or below
Small Parts Attachment Strength (x) (x) Drawstring with tipping (Adult only)

• Metallic prints
• Foil prints
• Heat transfers and Heat Transferred Embellishments (Photo Real, Foil, Welds, Crystalline,
Glitter, Patches
• Flocking
• Surface coated fabrics (excluding those with functional coating that are tested under the
special claims protocol i.e. water resistant coatings)]

Go to Protocol
NOTES:
1. Snaps must be applied to faux garments/mock-ups with given construction simulating or same as final style and using the snap supplier’s pinch setting
to attach
Resistance to Unsnapping of Snap Fasteners (x) Snap only
Snap Attachment Strength (x) Snap for Adult
Resistance to Corrosion (x) Metal component only

Attachment Strength (x) Adults Only
Sublimation Test (x) Dyed buttons

(Dyed Button)
Moisture Content (x) Wood trim only
Button Center Strength (x) Adults Only
Mold Count (x) Wood trim only

Hook Pull Out Strength x
Hook and Eye Tension x
Hasp Strength x
Pull Test (Rings and Sliders) (x) Adult only
3.8.6 ZIPPERS
Zipper Operability x
Holding Strength of Slider lock x
Separating Unit, Crosswise Strength x
Element Slippage, Lengthwise x
Element Pull-off x
Chain Crosswise Strength x
Top Stop Holding (x) Adult only
Bottom Stop Holding Strength, Stringer (x) Adult only

Separation
Resistance to Pull-off of Slider Pull (90°) (x) Adult only
Zipper Tab Twist-off Strength – Zipper Tab Twist (x) Adult only
method

Effects of Extreme Heat and Humidity x

Go to Protocol
Colorfastness to Crocking (x) Test darkest color in Trim Full
Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering x
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach x
Attachment Strength (x) Adult Only
Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes x
Effect of Heat Aging (x) Foam pads only

Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach x
Colorfastness to Water (Static Wetting) x
Peel & Shear Strength of Hook & Loop Fasteners x

Colorfastness to Phenolic Yellowing (x) (x) White colored, Chief value nylon fabrics only
(must be both white and CV nylon for this to apply)
Hook to Eye Pull Out Strength (x) Non intimates. Hook not attached.
Hook to Eye Tension (x) Non intimates
Bra Hook to Eye Pull Out Strength (x) Intimate only
Manufacturing Quality x
Pitting x
Manufacturing Quality x
Pitting x
Strength Performance x

3.9 DOWN TEST PACKAGE
3.9 DOWN AND FILL TEST PACKAGE
Remark:
1. Fabric Stage: Must submit all colorways per quality per style
Go to Protocol
Test Stage Market to be sold in - As listed on TRF
Pre-Prod Stage- Fabric Stage - Gmt Prod Dependent
TEST PROPERTY Plumage (Fabric Test or Garment mock
up that is not Production stage)

General Appearance (x) x If garment mock up is submitted, do not conduct on
Before and After Home fabric only
Laundering
General Appearance (X) (X) If garment mock up is submitted, do not conduct on

Before and After fabric only
Dry clean only (selected on the TRF)

Net Fill Weight x
Fill Power x x
Turbidity x x
Oxygen Number x x
Air Permeability (x) All fabric components: Shell, Lining and Baffle fabric, if
present
Down Proof x (X) Dev

- Required to test for Athleta
Prod
- Fabric Stage - Mandatory
- Garment Stage - Request only
Odor Grade (x) China Inbound Product Only
White Feather Down (x) China Inbound Product Only

Analysis
Fat and Oil Content (x) China Inbound Product Only
Down proof/Down and (x) (x) Fabric:

Feather Penetration - Request only
Resistance
Garment:
- China Inbound Product Only
Fill Proof x (x) Request only

Remark:
1. Conduct the Test Properties according to the Special Claim Test(s) on the Test Request Form
2. Test at fabric stage when fabric is used for non-washed garment; Test at garment stage when garment is processed with washing or wet treatment (e.g. GW, GD, SW, P, SD etc)
3. It is the responsibility of the test submitter to request the Claims tests on the Test Request Form
Go to Protocol
CLAIMS TEST PROPERTY FABRIC DEPENDENT GARMENT DEPENDENT
(SPC) DELAMINATION RESISTANCE Delamination (x) Laminated fabrics only
(SPC) MOISTURE MANAGEMENT Water Absorbency Test (x) Performance / Activewear Product (x) Performance / Activewear Product
CLAIMS – PERFORMANCE /
ACTIVEWEAR PRODUCTS Vertical Wicking (1) (x) Fabric using for non-washed garment (x) GW, GD, SW, P, SD
Water Absorbency Test (x) (x)

Non Performance / Non Activewear Non Performance / Non Activewear
(SPC) MOISTURE MANAGEMENT
Product Product
CLAIMS – NON PERFORMANCE / Vertical Wicking (1) (x) (x)
NON ACTIVEWEAR PRODUCTS
Fabric using for non-washed garment GW, GD, SW, P, SD
Water Vapor Permeability (1) (x) (x)
(SPC) QUICK DRY Quick Dry (x) Fabric using for non-washed Garment (x) GW, GD, SW, P, SD
Water Vapor Permeability (1) (x) Test when claim

(SPC) BREATHABILITY
Water Vapor Permeability (2) (x) Athleta Sleepwear only
(SPC) ABSORBENCY FOR BATHROBES

Absorbency (x) Fabric using for Bathrobes Only
CLAIM
Spray Test (x) Fabric using for non-washed Garment (x) GW, GD, SW, P, SD
Knit Only Knit Only

Not applicable to sweaters and items – Not applicable to sweaters and items
(SPC) WATER REPELLENCY CLAIM
intended for OW. Use spray test only for intended for OW. Use spray test only for
Water Drop (x) (x)
OW. OW.
Fabric using for non-washed Garment GW, GD, SW, P, SD
Test when either Rain Duty claim or Rain Test when either Rain Duty claim or Rain
(SPC) WATER RESISTANCE CLAIM Rain Test (x) (x)
Duty + Hang Tag Special Claim Duty + Hang Tag Special Claim
(SPC) WATER PROOF CLAIM Hydrostatic Pressure Test (x) For Waterproof Fabric Claim (x) For Waterproof Garment Claim
Oil Repellency (x) (x)

(SPC) STAIN REPELLENT CLAIM Test when claim Test when claim
Aqueous Liquid Repellency (x) (x)
(SPC) STAIN RELEASE (STAY WHITE

Soil Release (x) Test when claim
OR STAIN CLEAN)
Wrinkle Free/Non Iron (x) Woven only (x) Woven only

(SPC) WRINKLE RESISTANT AND
Wrinkle resistance/easy care (x) Woven only (x) Woven only
WRINKLE FREE CLAIMS
Stoll flex abrasion (x) Woven Bottoms only (x) Woven Bottoms only
Wrinkle recovery testing (x) Woven only (x) Woven only

(SPC) WRINKLE RECOVERY TESTING
Stoll flex abrasion (x) Woven Bottoms only (x) Woven Bottoms only
Air Permeability of Textile

(SPC) WIND RESISTANCE CLAIM (x) Test when claim
Fabrics
Air Permeability of Textile

(SPC) WIND PROOF CLAIM (x) For Athleta only
Fabrics
Thermal Transmittance of
(SPC) THERMAL TRANSMITTANCE (x) Test when claim (x) Test when claim
Textile Materials

Go to Protocol
Warm (OW) (x)

(SPC) OUTERWEAR (OW) THERMAL
Warmer (OW) (x) Athleta Brand Outerwear only
RATINGS
Warmest (OW) (x)
(SPC) HYGROSCOPIC HEAT

Hygroscopic Heat Generation (x) Test when claim (x) Test when claim
GENERATION
Stretch and Recovery

(SPC) COMPRESSION CLAIMS ONLY (x) Woven, Denim, or Knit
(Compression)

(SPC) “KEEPS YOU COOL” OR LIKE
Vertical Wicking (1) (x) Fabric using for non-washed Garment (x) GW, GD, SW, P, SD
CLAIMED PRODUCTS ONLY

(SPC) MOISTURE MANAGEMENT
CLAIMS – NON PERFORMANCE / Vertical Wicking (1) (x) Fabric using for non-washed Garment (x) GW, GD, SW, P, SD
NON ACTIVEWEAR PRODUCTS
(SPC) GLOW IN THE DARK Glow in the Dark (x) Test when claim (x) Test when claim
Abrasion Resistance
(SPC) ABRASION RESISTANT (x) Denim, or High Performance Knits (x) Denim, or High Performance Knits
(By Martindale)
Knit only Knit only

Abrasion Resistance
(SPC) ABRASION CLAIMS (x) (x)
(By Modified Martindale)
Fabric using for non-washed Garment GW, GD, SW, P, SD
GW of
Items containing antistatic finish or items
Items containing antistatic finish or items
(SPC) ANTISTATIC CLAIMS Antistatic (x) with static issues such as 100% polyester or (x)
with static issues such as 100% polyester or
100% nylon
100% nylon
(SPC) COLOR STAY REQUIREMENTS

(INCLUSIVE OF STAY BLACK) – General Appearance Before Garment mock up test must be done at Garment mock up test must be done at
(x) (x)
RELATED TO MAINTAINING ITS and After Laundering development development
COLOR
Must have finish, should not be using on

(SPC) INSTANT COOL FEELING –
Instant Cool Feeling (x) anything that is not engineered as instant
TOUCH FEELING OF COOLNESS
cool feeling fabric
Quick Dry (x) (x)
(SPC) THERMAL RETENTION AND Vertical Wicking (1) (x) (x)

MOISTURE CONTROL – LAYER FOR
Water Vapor Permeability (1) (x) Fabric using for non-washed Garment (x) GW, GD, SW, P, SD
WARMTH, KEEPS YOU COOL, DRY
AND COMFORTABLE
(x) (x)
Textile Materials
Plastic Buttons only

(SPC) BUTTON BREAKAGE Impact Resistance of Plastic
(x) Test in Trim stage
RESISTANCE Sew-Through Buttons
Must also pass Button Center Strength Test
Must receive a passed 37.5 Lab Test Report

(SPC) 37.5®TECHNOLOGY 37.5® Technology (x)
and Certification at Development
(SPC) SWEAT HIDING CLAIM Sweat Hiding Test (x) Test when claim (x) Test when claim

Go to Protocol
Must receive a passed HeiQ Lab Test Report

(SPC) HEIQ FRESH FFL TESTING HeiQ Fresh FFL Testing (x)
and Certification at Development
For Casual/Lifestyle wear

Applicable to Knit, Woven & Denim. Not
applicable to Sweaters
See Footnote SP1
Applicable to all categories excluding
Vertical Wicking (1) (x) (x)
Denim.
See Footnote SP1
Test on request
Air Permeability of Textile Applicable to Knit, Woven. Not applicable
(x) (x)
(SPC) COOLMAX® (CORE, ALL Fabrics to Denim and Sweaters
SEASON) See Footnote SP1

(x) Applicable to all categories. (x)
Textile Materials (1)
See Footnote SP1
Footnote SP1: - For Casual/Lifestyle wear

- Must be tested on the finished fabric (Test one colorway)
- The test submitter MUST specify whether the fabric/garment is using COOLMAX® CORE or COOLMAX® ALL
SEASON on the Online Test
- Development and Bulk Production MUST have a valid PASSED certification (Notice of Approval) from The
LYCRA Company
Vertical Wicking (2) (x) (x)

(SPC) TRUTEMP 365 Denim & Woven only Denim & Woven only
(x) (x)
Textile Materials (2)
GAP INC INTERNAL USE ONLY, LABS DO NOT VERIFY
Unshrinkable or shrink Dimensional Stability from the original Dimensional Stability from the original
(x) (x)
resistant protocol will determine the shrinkage. protocol will determine the shrinkage.
These are using as requirements to apply These are used as requirements to apply
(SPC) MARKETING AND Minimal shrinkage (x) (x)
these marketing claims to the end product. these marketing claims to the end product.
REQUIREMENTS FOR KNIT
This does not require additional testing, This does not require additional testing,
SHRINKAGE CLAIMS
Pre-shrunk (x) just the dimensional stability. Again, this is (x) just the dimensional stability. Again, this is
minimum shrinkage requirements for minimum shrinkage requirements for
Shrinkage control (x) marketing wording. (x) marketing wording.
Unshrinkable or shrink Dimensional Stability from the original Dimensional Stability from the original
(x) (x)
resistant protocol will determine the shrinkage. protocol will determine the shrinkage.
These are using as requirements to apply These are used as requirements to apply
(SPC) MARKETING AND Minimal shrinkage (x) (x)
these marketing claims to the end product. these marketing claims to the end product.
REQUIREMENTS FOR WOVEN
This does not require additional testing, This does not require additional testing,
SHRINKAGE CLAIMS
Pre-shrunk (x) just the dimensional stability. Again, this is (x) just the dimensional stability. Again, this is
minimum shrinkage requirements for minimum shrinkage requirements for
Shrinkage control (x) marketing wording. (x) marketing wording.
(SPC) MARKETING AND

REQUIREMENTS FOR ANTI PILL OR Anti-Pill or no pilling (x) Woven & Knit only (x) Woven & Knit only
NO PILLING

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
SECTION 4 CATEGORY PROTOCOLS

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
WOVEN NOTES
For Strength Properties, the below is included for each garment end use:
Tops (Including Blouses, Dresses, Lining, Pocketing)
Bottoms (Including Pants, Shorts, Skirts, One-piece outfits such as rompers/overalls/jumpsuits)
Outerwear (Including Jackets, Coats, and Blazers)
Go to Package
TEST PROPERTY METHOD REPS TEST DIRECTIONS SPECIFICATIONS
Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 3 [Woven] < 10.0 oz/sq yd: ± 5.0% from claim
Option C - General Sample cutter & balance; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings
≥10.0 oz/sq. yd: ± 3.0% from claim
Option B – Lace
and pleated fabric Report as DATA only for:
- Garment Development GW or GD. (Vendor to use as mill spec for bulk
garments)
Fabric Construction ASTM D 3775 3 [Woven and Denim fabric] < 10.0 oz/sq. yd (Athleta only) ± 5.0% from claim
(Woven / Denim)
≥ 10.0 oz/sq. yd ( Athleta only) ± 3.0% from claim
Pick Glass; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings
Other Brands (Non-Athleta): DATA only
Yarn Size (Woven / Knit) ASTM D 1059 2 Analytical balance; Outside 10% variation, take 2 more readings Athleta Only: ± 5.0% from claim
Other Brands (Non-Athleta): DATA Only

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Color Durability
Colorfastness to ISO 105-X12/X16 1 Dry. Conduct both Dry & Wet Crocking General including (including Dry: 3.5
Crocking 1 Wet - Use ISO 105-X16 only if sample is too small to apply ISO 105-X12 Corduroy): Wet: 2.5
- ISO 105-X12 – only use cylindrical shape rubbing finger SD, sanded, peached, emerized, Dry: 3.5
pigment print: Wet: 2
If Failure occurs for either dry or wet crocking, launder once as per care Gap Brand Sleepwear: Dry: 4
and report the results as DATA only. Wet: 3
Infant (0-36 months): Dry: 4
For China Market: Wet: 2.5
- For failures: Labs to specify "Fail for China Market Only" China Market only (Kids of Baby): Wet: 3
For Printed (P) qualities: China Market only (Adult Woven Wet: 2.5
- Evaluation should be conducted on the garment or fabric that is being Outerwear):
crocked in addition to the above Pass/Fail on the crock cloth.
- Note and report any observations of print coming off.
- When sending actual test report, crocked specimen along with the crock
cloths should be attached to the colorfastness sheet for Prints (P).
- Report as DATA
Colorfastness to ISO 105-C06 1 Modification – Use AATCC multifiber strip (Sample size 6cm x 6cm) Color Change - General: 3.5
Accelerated Laundering Modified Determine MF strip #1 or #10 dependent on CV fiber
Color Change - All SD/Print: 3
Color Change - Foil/Metallic/Flocking DATA only
Print:
Multifiber Staining: 3
Self-Staining: 4
Colorfastness to Non- Gap Inc. S1004 1 Spot Test: Sodium Perborate Bleach Color Change: 4
Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Light ISO 105-B02 1 Modifications: General Colored Styles (Except Denim 3
(Method 3) 1) General, Swimwear and Intimate: Fade ISO Blue Wool No. 4 to Grade 4, & Leather):
Modified stop test, record amount of exposure time in hours as DATA. All White (Except Denim): 2.5
All Neon: 2
2) For Lining/pocketing/silk: Fade ISO Blue Wool No. 3 to Grade 4, stop
test, record amount of exposure time in hours as DATA. Swimwear (Colored): 3.5
Lining/Pocketing/Silk/Intimate: 3
3) For PASS/FAIL after fading appropriate blue wool to Grade 4, rate using
the ISO grey scale and PASS/FAIL based on the requirements. Report actual
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
Colorfastness to ISO 105-E04 1 Modification – Use AATCC Multifiber Strip (Sample size 6cm x 6cm) Color Change - General: 3.5
Perspiration Modified Determine MF strip #1 or #10 dependent on CV fiber
Color Change - 0-36 months (≤ 100 4
cm):
Multifiber Staining - General: 3.5
Multifiber Staining - 0-36 months (≤ 4
100 cm):
Self-Staining: 4
Colorfastness to Water ISO 105-E01 1 [Medium and Dark colors (anything except white or pastels)] Color Change - General: 3.5
(Static Wetting) Modified
Modification – Use AATCC Multifiber Strip (Sample size 6cm x 6cm)
cm):
Determine MF strip #1 or #10 dependent on CV fiber
Note: Multifiber Staining - 0-36 months (≤ 4

Color blocked styles and high contrast prints (example: light ground, 100 cm):
medium or dark print) must be composited and evaluated for self-staining Self-Staining: 4
Colorfastness to Burnt AATCC 23 1 [White only] Color Change: 3.5

Gas Fumes 1 cycle
Colorfastness to Ozone AATCC 109 1 [Indigo Dye only] Color Change: 3.5
2 Cycles
Colorfastness to ISO 105 X18 1 [White colored, AND Chief Value Nylon Fabrics only] Staining: 4
Phenolic Yellowing
Specimen is wrapped inside the package assembly at 50°C For 16 hours
Colorfastness to AATCC 162 1 [Swimwear only] Color Change - General: 3.5

Color Change - Print: 3
Self-Staining 4

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Colorfastness to Sea AATCC 106 1 [Swimwear only] Color Change - General: 3.5
Water
Color Staining 3
Self-Staining 4
Colorfastness to AATCC 163 1 Test Direction & Modification, refer to Dye Transfer in Storage Guidelines Color Staining - General: 4
Storage: Dye Transfer (Modified) and SOP
Color Staining - Paper Tags: DATA only
Fabric - to be tested against multifiber Self-Staining: 4.5

Garment - use actual contrast fabric for testing. Appearance: No adverse effects
If tissue paper is present, evaluate staining on the tissue paper

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Dimensional Stability to Fabric: Fabric: [3 Home Launderings or 3 Hand Washes] Shrinkage
Home Laundering AATCC 135 3 each - Stretch, or with Spandex:
(Woven) (Option 2) direction Shrinkage to Laundering, expressed as Warp x Fill or Length x Width. Washed: -3.5% X -3.5%
Garment: Garment:
Non-washed: -5.0% X -5.0%
AATCC 150 “one for Note
each POM” * Use the specifications for “General woven fabrics” for those not specified
Shrinkage
refer to ** If there are 2 selections for requirements, select the strictest one.
- General Woven Fabric, or Coated:
Appendix 1
Washed: - 2.0% x -2.0%
for the How
to Measure Non-washed: -3.5% x -3.5 %
Guidelines
Shrinkage
- CV Wool and CV Linen:
Washed: -3.0% X -3.0%
Non-washed: -5.0% x -5.0%
Shrinkage
- CV Regenerated Cellulose:
Washed: -3.5% X -3.5%
Non-washed: -5.0% x -5.0%
Flat Rayon (Washed / Non-Washed): -4.0% x -4.0%
Crinkle Rayon (Washed / Non- -5.0% x -5.0%

Washed):
Texture Rayon (Washed / Non- -5.0% x -5.0%
Washed):
Growth: 1% x 1%
Lining Compatible with Shell: -1% x -1%
Mixed Media (Woven with other construction)

– Garment Form only:
Differential Shrinkage Between -1% x -1%
Components:
Growth: 0%
Total Shrinkage: -2.5% x -2.5%
Dimensional Stability to AATCC 158 Fabric: [1 Commercial Dry Cleaning] Shrinkage: -2% x -2%
Commercial Dry 3 each
Growth: 1% x 1%
Cleaning direction
Garment: Lining Compatibility to Shell: -1% x -1%
“one for
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guidelines

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
General Appearance As per care label. 1 [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Color Change - General 3.5
Before and After Home If no care label
Laundering finalized, use Report all observations inclusive of Colorfastness to Actual Laundering, rate
expected care with AATCC Evaluation Test Procedures at both fabric & garment stages, Self-Staining: 4
label. pilling using ASTM D 3514 Photographic Standard Replicas (for Woven) or Pilling - Plain Surface Fabrics: 3.5
ASTM D3512 Photographic Standard Replicas (for Knit).
Pilling - Raised Surface Fabrics: 2.5
Report Color Change result of the base fabric with suppressor if 1) failure Seam Smoothness (Mixed Media 3.5
occurs AND 2) the base fabric is a white/pastel color (DATA only) only):
Appearance: Satisfactory
Report Pilling for Pile Surface of a Fleece Fabric /Sherpa (if applicable)
- Report as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Use replica to evaluate the test
results)
Report Observations:
- No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product
performance/appearance, including but not limited to frosting. Fail for
slight appearance changes.
- General assessment, before and after laundering & ironing*. No obvious
defects/observations affecting the end product performance &
appearance.
- Report any foreign objects or matter (such as tacky or sticky feel on the
inside of a screen print t-shirt or transfer paper left after a heat transfer has
been applied), etc. including exactly what was discovered.
- List all observations.
- Report as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory
*Report Observation (Appearance) Before Ironing and/or After Ironing

- If Before Ironing is evaluated "Satisfactory", rate PASS, After Ironing
evaluation is not required.
- If Before Ironing is evaluated "Unsatisfactory", rate DATA. Further
evaluate After Ironing, issue PASS/FAIL
Mixed Media (if applicable)

- Evaluate Seam Smoothness (use ASTM D 4231 Photographic Standard)
General Appearance As per care label. 1 [1 Commercial Dry Cleaning] Color Change - General: 3.5
Before and After If no care label
Commercial Dry finalized. Use Report all observations inclusive of Colorfastness to Actual Laundering, rate
Cleaning expected care with AATCC evaluation test procedures at both fabric & garment stages, Self-Staining: 4
label. pilling using ASTM D 3514 Photographic Standard Replicas (for woven) or Pilling - Plain Surface Fabrics: 3.5
ASTM D3512 Photographic Standard Replicas (for knit).
Report Pilling for Pile Surface of a Fleece Fabric /Sherpa (if applicable) Seam Smoothness (Mixed Media 3.5
- Report as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Use replica to evaluate the test only):
results) Appearance: Satisfactory
Observations:
- General assessment, before and after laundering & ironing. No obvious
appearance.
- Report as Satisfactory/Unsatisfactory
Torque After Home Fabric: 1 [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Max. 3.0%
Laundering AATCC 179
Method 2. Option
3
Garment:
Gap Inc S 1053
Torque After Fabric: 1 [1 Commercial Dry Cleaning] Max. 3.0%

Commercial Dry AATCC 179
Cleaning Method 2. Option
3
Garment:
Gap Inc S 1053

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Durability to Repeated As per care label. All [10 Home Launderings] Color Change: 3.5
Laundering If no care label
Self-Staining: 4
finalized. use All Brands (excluding Athleta): 10 Home Launderings
expected care Athleta: 10 Home Launderings (and 20 Home Launderings at development Appearance: No adverse effects
label. for *novelty print only)
Including but not limited to:

• Metallic prints
• Foil prints
• Heat transfers and Heat Transferred Embellishments (Photo Real, Foil,
Welds, Crystalline, Glitter, Patches)
• Flocking
• Fragile Trims – Sewn-On/Hot Fix (Beads, Rhinestones, Sequins, Studs,
etc.)
• Surface coated fabrics (Excluding those with functional coating that are
tested under the special claims protocol i.e. water resistant coatings)]
• Novelty print* (For Athleta only)
*Novelty print = Pigment reflective print / foil print / pearl print / emboss
print / sublimation print with foil/reflective/emboss print
Check for durability through 10 washes. Rate with AATCC Evaluation

Procedure 1 and/or 2.
Record results and attach the original and one sample after 10 wash cycles
to the test report.
- No adverse effects affecting the end product performance & appearance,
including but not limited to detaching, lifting of print or foil, considerable
loss of glitter. Record all.
Report color change result of the base fabric with suppressor if 1) failure
occurs AND 2) the base fabric is a white/pastel color (data only)
Note:
- Additional Colorway Testing: If the trim itself is the exact same color on
the additional colorways that are submitted, then we do not need to
conduct this test for additional colorways. Only one colorway needs to be
tested and that is conducted in full package testing.
- If care is handwash, consult Gap Inc. PI.

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Physical Durability
Pile Retention GAP INC. S1029 3 [All pile fabrics including fur and faux fur] Face and Back: ≤ 1.5% Weight Loss
Test Face and Back
Abrasion Resistance ASTM D 4685 3 [Woven] Velvet or Corduroy: 3.5

(By Rotary Platform - Velvet & Corduroy
Performance/Activewear Product: 3.5
Abraser) - Performance/Activewear products always conduct this on all pile fabrics
in Development and Fabric Full Package
Test Face and Back
Abrasion Resistance (By ISO 12947-2 3 [Woven] Performance/Activewear - Withstand 20.000

Martindale) [Performance/Activewear – non pile] Tops/Dresses: cycles
Performance/Activewear - Bottoms: Withstand 30.000
Check at every 10.000 cycles to record any adverse effects cycles
Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3514 2 [Woven fabric except Melton] General (Including Corduroy, except 3
(By Elastomeric Pad) - Conduct 300 cycles Melton):
- Test face side only FR Polyester Sleepwear (100% 2.5
- Back side test - on request. Polyester Sleepwear only, including
- Report individual and average rating plain and flannel/fleece)
(Except BR & BRFS):
Sueded, Brushed, Peached Finished 2.5
Fabric (Excluding Meltons)
(Except BR & BRFS):
All Woven for BR & BRFS: 3
Pilling Resistance ISO 12945-2 2 [Any content of Melton only] Melton: 3

(By Martindale) Conduct 2000 cycles.
- Report individual and average rating
- Use EMPA photo replicas for evaluation
Snagging BS 8479 2 Each [Woven] Snag Grade 3.5

Direction In scope: (All Brands Except Athleta):
- Filament (polyester/nylon/silk) yarn only AND; Snag Grade (Athleta): DATA only
- Fabric: Gauze, Satin, Chiffon, Textured/Jacquard woven
Snag Profile (Athleta) No snags >5mm
- Development fabric for in scope fiber yarn and fabrication
- Development garment with GW(Garment Wash), GD(Garment Dye) for in
scope fiber yarn and fabrication
Out of Scope:
- Twill, any pile like fabric (e.g. corduroy, velvet/velveteen etc.), coated
fabric (face side), and any other that is not in scope.
- End use: Lining, trims.
Report Snag Grade AND Snag Profile

- Report No. of Snag when Snag Size ≤2mm, >2mm to ≤5mm, >5mm
- Report >10 when No. of Snag is over 10
Athleta
- Report Snag Grade AND Snag Profile
Other Brands
-Report Snag Grade only
Shedding Gap Inc. S 1036 1 [Woven] Fiber collected from the Pilling Box: Slight
[Request Only]
Syringe Value DATA only
Reporting: Fiber Loss in (g) and (%): DATA only

- Report results for face and back side separately if tested on both sides
- Report the Classification of the shedding fibers collected from pilling box.
Details, refer to Gap S1036
- Report Syringe Value (volume in ml) by the Syringe Evaluation Method
- Report Average Fiber Loss Ratio in %, to an accuracy of 0.01%.
- Report Average fiber loss in gram, to an accuracy of 0.01g
- Insert a photo of the shedding fibers by using Fiber Diameter
Measurement when result is FAIL
- Insert a photo of the shedding fibers by using syringe in test report.

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Stretch and Recovery ASTM D 3107 3 If direction of stretch cannot be determined or if it is bi-stretch, test both All categories Except Pants (Elastomer of 1 – 10%):
(Woven) 1 (Modified) directions.
Growth: 7% Max
4 lbs. test load should be used.
Below S&R tests should be performed using 85% of max elongation. Recovery: DATA only
Measure Growth and Recovery using 30 minutes. Report Maximum Max. Elongation: DATA only
Elongation, Growth and Recovery.
Pants Only (Elastomer of 1 – 5%):
If Max. Elongation is ≥35%, conduct additionally Gap Inc S1064 Growth: 5% Max
Recovery: DATA only
Notes:
- Garment: Use 6-inch gauge length. Should be from back rear leg panel Max. Elongation: DATA only
below rear pocket. If sample must be taken elsewhere, note as information
on report. When a 6” cutting can’t be taken a panel that represents the Pants Only (Elastomer of > 5%):
wash (having been through all chemical process, all curing processes. etc. Growth: 5% Max
with garments) must be sent to the lab.
Recovery: Min 85%
- “Skinny and super skinny” styles: Use an 18” x 18” panel that has been
run through all washes, all chemical process, all curing processes, etc. with Max. Elongation: DATA only
garments then test S&R on the panel.
- Fabrics/Lace/Seamless Garments with different zones with different S&R For Old Navy Only - Effective Spring 24
properties, the specimen area must clearly be marked on a diagram Pants Only (Elastomer of 1 – 5%)
(attached to the spec.) and provided to the lab to ensure testing
Growth: 5% Max
consistency from development to bulk testing.
Recovery: +/- 15% from fabric
Note for Old Navy Max. Elongation: +/- 10% from fabric
- Fabric Specification was aligned with MMT in development. Mill must specification
submit the fabric specification to lab for bulk testing
Pants Only (Elastomer of > 5%)
Growth: 5% Max
Recovery: Min 85%
Max. Elongation: +/- 10% from fabric
specification
Stretch and Recovery Gap Inc S1064 3 If Max. Elongation is ≥35%., further conduct Gap Inc S1064 to get the fixed Force (lbs.) required to obtain 25% DATA only
(Woven) 2 25% outputs when applicable Elongation:
Recovery: DATA only
Growth: DATA only
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 3 Each [Woven, Woven Intimate] Woven Tops / Gloves / Bib / Scarves / Hat:
Direction If end use is not known or specified, use Outerwear spec.
Fabric Weight ≤2 oz/sq yd: 20 x 20 lbs.
Requirements (Warp x Weft) – Report all readings and average, PASS/FAIL Fabric Weight 2.1 – 3 oz/sq yd: 25 x 20 lbs.
based on the lowest reading Fabric Weight 3.1 – 5 oz/sq yd: 30 x 25 lbs.
Fabric Weight 5.1 – 8 oz/sq yd: 35 x 30 lbs.
Fabric Weight ≥ 8.1 oz/sq yd: 45 x 40 lbs
Bottoms:
Fabric Weight ≥ 8.1 oz/sq yd: 50 x 45 lbs.
Outerwear (Excluding BR):

Outerwear (For BR brand only):

PFD Fabric for Woven Tops:

Fabric Weight: ≤6 oz/sq yd: 70 x 50 lbs.
Fabric Weight: 6.1 – 9.9 oz/sq yd: 80 x 55 lbs.
Fabric Weight: ≥10 oz/sq yd: 100 x 60 lbs.
PFD Fabric for Bottoms and Outerwear

Fabric Weight: 6.1 – 9.9 oz/sq yd: 110 x 70 lbs.
Fabric Weight: ≥10 oz/sq yd: 140 x 90 lbs.

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Tensile Strength – After ASTM D 5034 3 Each [Woven] Woven Tops:
Ageing AATCC 26 Direction [100% Sulfur Only]
[Wax Coated Fabrics - Request Only on Fabric stage]
- (Does not include functional coatings such as Water Resistant coatings, Fabric Weight: 2.1 – 3 oz/sq yd: 25 x 20 lbs.
which are covered under their specific testing. Refer to Special Claims Fabric Weight: 3.1 – 5 oz/sq yd: 30 x 25 lbs.
section for testing on functional coated fabrics)
Fabric Weight: 5.1 – 8 oz/sq yd: 35 x 30 lbs.
All 100 % Sulfur dyed programs requirements should be the same as Fabric Weight: ≥ 8.1 oz/sq yd: 45 x 40 lbs.
general tensile requirements for end use.
Bottoms:
If end use is not known or specified, use Outerwear spec.
Requirements (Warp x Weft) – Report all readings and average, PASS/FAIL Fabric Weight: 3.1 – 5 oz/sq yd: 35 x 30 lbs.
based on the lowest reading Fabric Weight: 5.1 – 8 oz/sq yd: 40 x 35 lbs.
Fabric Weight: ≥ 8.1 oz/sq yd: 50 x 45 lbs.

Outerwear: (For BR brand only):

Tear Strength Fabrics ≤ 10 oz: 2 Each [Woven, Woven Intimate] Woven Tops / Gloves / Bib / Scarves / Hat:
ASTM D 1424 Direction
Fabric Weight: ≤3 oz/sq yd: 1.5 x 1.5 lbs.
Fabrics > 10 oz: Fabric Weight: 3.1 - 5 oz/sq yd: 2.0 x 2.0 lbs.
ASTM D 2261 Requirements (Warp x Weft) – Report all readings and average, PASS/FAIL Fabric Weight: 5.1 - 8 oz/sq yd: 2.5 x 2.0 lbs.
based on the lowest reading Fabric Weight: ≥ 8.1oz/sq yd: 3.5 x 2.5 lbs.
Bottoms (excluding BR):

Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yd: 2.0 x 2.0 lbs.
Fabric Weight: 4.1 - 4.9 oz/sq yd: 3.0 x 2.5 lbs.
Fabric Weight: ≥ 8 oz/sq yd: 4.0 x 3.5 lbs.
Bottoms (BR only):


Fabric Weight: 3.1 - 5 oz/sq yd: 2.0 x 2.0 lbs.
Fabric Weight: ≥ 8.1oz/sq yd: 3.5 x 3.0 lbs.
Outerwear (BR only):

PFD Fabric - Tops:

PFD Fabric - Bottoms and Outerwear:


4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Tear Strength – After Fabrics ≤ 10 oz: 2 Each [Woven] Tops:
Ageing ASTM D 1424 Direction [100% Sulfur Only]
Fabrics > 10 oz: [Wax Coated Fabrics - Request Only on Fabric stage]
ASTM D 2261 - (Does not include functional coatings such as Water Resistant coatings, Fabric Weight: 3.1 - 5 oz/sq yd: 2.0 x 2.0 lbs.
AATCC 26 which are covered under their specific testing. Refer to Special Claims Fabric Weight: 5.1 - 8 oz/sq yd: 2.5 x 2.0 lbs.
All 100% Sulfur dyed programs requirements should be the same as
Bottoms (excluding BR):
general tear requirements for end use.
Requirements (Warp x Weft) – Report all readings and average, PASS/FAIL
based on the lowest reading
If end use is not known or specified. use outerwear spec. Fabric Weight: ≥ 8.0 oz/sq yd: 4.0 x 3.5 lbs.
Bottoms (BR only):

Fabric Weight: ≥ 8.0 oz/sq yd: 4.0 x 3.5 lbs.

Fabric Weight: 3 - 5 oz/sq yd: 2.0 x 2.0 lbs.


4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Seam Slippage Fabric: Fabric: [Woven] Tops (Including Blouses, Lining, 15 x 15 lbs.
ASTM D 434 3 Each Pockets, Dresses):
Direction Garment: Test each seam across the seam Bottoms (Including Pants, Shorts, 20 x 20 lbs.
Garment: Test all seams, including: Skirts, One-piece outfits such as
ASTM D 1683 Garment: - pockets Outerwear (Including Jackets, Coats, 20 x 20 lbs.
Modified 1 Each - hybrid style seams using two different fabric qualities/types seam and Blazers):
Seam together
Min Requirements: Warp x Weft (lbs./in @ ¼” separation)
Seam Strength Fabric: 1 Each Garment: Each seam across the seam Woven Tops / Pockets:
ASTM D 434 Seam Test all seams, including:
Fabric Weight ≤2 oz/sq yd: 15 x 15
Garment: - pockets
ASTM D 1683 mod - hybrid style seams using two different fabric qualities/types seam Fabric Weight: 2.1 – 3 oz/sq yd: 20 x 20
together Fabric Weight: 3.1 – 5 oz/sq yd: 25 x 20
Fabric Weight: 5.1 – 8 oz/sq yd: 30 x 25
Fabric Weight: ≥8.1 oz/sq yd: 40 x 35
In garment form, if direction is indeterminate, use lowest directional
standard for the PASS/FAIL. Bottoms:
Labs should follow the direction of yarns and not the stitch direction, while
choosing the requirements. Fabric Weight: 3.1 – 5 oz/sq yd: 30 x 25
Requirement (lbs.): (Seam//Weft x Seam//Warp)
Outerwear (excluding BR):


Bartack Reinforcement: 30% less than above

seam requirements
for the weight
category
Strap to Body:
≤5.0 oz/sq yd: 10 lbs.
≥5.1 oz/sq yd: 15 lbs.
Slit/Stress Point/Stress Area:

≤5.0 oz/sq yd: 10 lbs.
Mixed Media:
Woven to other construction - Top: 20 x 20 lbs. or 50%
Elongation
Woven to other construction - 35 x 35 lbs. or 50%
Bottoms/OW: Elongation
Seam Slippage and ASTM D 1683 2 Test all seam types Seam Slippage 15 x 15 lbs.
Seam Strength of (Modified) Warp x weft (lbs./in @ ¼”
Pocketing Fabric separation):
Seam Strength: Min 20 lbs.
Seam Stretchability Gap Inc. S 1052 All Seams [Woven bottom] Bottom in Lengthwise: 20 lbs. or 50%
[Bottoms having any content of elastomeric fiber in lengthwise] Elongation

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Belt Loop Attachment ASTM D 1683 3 [Woven and Denim Bottoms] Thread Belt Loops: Min. 13 lbs.
Strength (Modified) Test on below locations (if applicable):
All other Belt Loops Min. 25 lbs.
- Low End @ Front
- Low End @ Side
- Low End @ Back
- High End (any one from front, side or back)
- High End Corner
- Belt Loop Corner @ Front
- Belt Loop Corner @ Side
- Belt Loop Corner @ Back
[Others]
Test one from the side, front and back, if the fabric constructions are same
using in all panels.
Pocket Attachment Gap Inc. S 1027 1 [Woven] Woven - Decorative: 10 lbs.

Strength CRE, Test one of each type of pocket
Woven - Functional:
For Woven Bottoms and Outerwear:
≤3.0 oz/yd2 9lbs
- Applicable to decorative and functional patch pockets, seamed pockets,
cargo pockets, coin pockets with or without rivets 3.01 to 4.0 oz/yd2 11 lbs.
4.01 to 6.0 oz/yd:2 13 lbs.
For Tops (including Shirts and Blouses):
6.01 oz/yd:2 15 lbs.
- Applicable to decorative and functional patch pockets, test corner stress
area only
For pocketing material and pocketing seams strength

- Follow ASTM D 1683
Neck Stretch Fit Gap Inc. S 1009 All sizes [Kids and Baby only] Baby (Preemie): 18”
[Evaluate Before and After 3HL]
Baby (0-3M) - Newborn-Size XS: 18”
Refer to QA Bulletin #007 Baby (3-6M) - Size S: 19”

Baby (6-12M) - Size M: 20”
Gap Inc. Neck Stretch Gauge – Before and After Wash.
Baby (1-4 years) - Size L -4XL: 21”
- Pass: Gauge goes through neck opening smoothly without distorting the
gauge or causing seam failure. Kids (2-4 years) - Size XXS - XS: 21”
- Fail: Gauge goes through neck opening with gauge distortion or garment Kids (5-9 years) - Size S-M: 22”
seam failure; or gauge unable to go through neck opening.
Kids (10-14 years) - Size L - XXL: 23”
Resistance to ASTM D 4846 All CRE or Chatillon push gauge. 2.0 lb. min – 8.0 lb.
Unsnapping of Snap (Perpendicular) max.
Fasteners
Button Attachment Gap Inc. S1023 All [Adult only] 15.0 lbs. for 10
Strength CRE or Chatillon + Suitable clamping device seconds
Record ultimate failure and nature of failure
Snap Attachment ASTM D 7142 All [Adult Only] 15.0 lbs. for 10
Strength Option 2 seconds
CRE or SafQ Pulling Tester Chatillon + suitable clamping device (male &
female components).
Small Parts Attachment Gap Inc. S1023 All [Adult only] General: 15.0 lbs. for 10
Strength CRE or Chatillon. seconds
Test all functional (Including drawstring with tipping), and non-functional Mobilon Hanger Loop 5.0 lbs. for 10 seconds
trims. including soft decorative trim items (such as bows, charms, ribbons) (For Old Navy & Gap brands):
Record ultimate failure and nature of failures.

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Chemical
pH Value (Textile) ISO 3071 1 Extraction solution should utilize KCL (Potassium Chloride) General, including White Fabric 5.5 – 7.0
(Except Nylon and Protein):
Notes: Nylon / Protein Fibers: 4 – 7.0
- All pH testing should be a composite resulting in one reading.
100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
Examples: Graphic t-shirt should have both fabrics with and without
graphic to make up one reading. compositing all components as they are
not separable.
Garment special instructions:

- Exceptions to this rule: Woven Garment – GW, SW, GD / Knit & Intimate
Garment - FW, GW, SW, GD that have multiple, separable components
such as jackets with shell and lining. dresses with shell and lining, should be
tested as follows:
- Test components separately- i.e. test lining and shell separately,
providing two readings.
- Do not include any component in the lining or shell testing that makes up
<1% of the total garment. Make sure to exclude woven labels but. to
include back neck labels that are screen printed.
- Test pocketing separately - For China market only
"White" refers to white colored fabric, whether it has or has not been
treated with an optical brightener. Includes fabrics, which have up to 50%
white.
pH value (Textile) - ISO 3071 1 [100% Sulfur Only] 100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
After Ageing
Extraction solution should utilize KCL (Potassium Chloride)
Test on Request
Sublimation Test JIS L 0879. 1 [Apparel Product: Request Only – Request directed by GIS PI] Color Staining: 4
Method B [Contents consisting of 100% polyester or CV polyester product that is:
Self-Staining: 4.5
Dispersed dyed and color blocked. Medium and Dark color only (anything
except whites and pastels), IP (intimates and Performance) and OW Appearance No adverse effects
(outerwear) only]
150°C for 30 seconds

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Sew-Free
General Appearance Development: 1 [Sew Free - Bonded Section] Color Change - General: 3.5
Before and After default care Development:
Laundering MWW, TDL - 25 HL (Non-Athleta)
(Sew-Free) - 20 HL (Athleta only) Self- Staining: 4
Production: Production: Pilling (Plain Surface Fabrics): 3.5
As per care label. - 10 HL
Pilling (Raised Surface Fabrics): 2.5
If no care label
finalized, use Evaluate every 5 cycles. Pilling (Pile surface of a fleece fabric Satisfactory
MWW, TDL Report all observations inclusive of pilling, CF to actual laundering rate with /Sherpa):
AATCC evaluation test procedures at both Fabric & Garment stages Appearance: - No Wavy
Appearance
*Report color change result of the base fabric with suppressor if 1) failure - No obvious
occurs AND 2) the base fabric is a white/pastel color (data only) defects/observations
affecting the end
Pilling for Pile surface of a fleece fabric /Sherpa product
- Report as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Use replica to evaluate the test performance/appeara
results) nce.
Report the Bonding Performance and Appearance Changes.

List all observations
- Details, refer to SECTION 6.2: BONDED SEAM APPEARANCE - PASS/FAIL
EVALUATION REFERENCE PHOTOS
Report Reflective Tape Appearance

- Checking the appearance by stretching the portion in 5~10% extension
- Details, Refer to: SECTION 6.3 REFLECTIVE TAPE APPEARANCE - PASS/FAIL
EVALUATION REFERENCE PHOTO
Seam Strength of ASTM D1683 All Bonded [Sew-Free] Original & After Washes: Min. 30 lbf/inch
Bonded seams MODIFIED Seams Home Launderings
- Development: Original, After 10HL & 25HL
- Production: Original & After 10HL
Test Actual Garment Bonded Seam
Report the mode of failure on Bonded Seam:

FR= Fabric Rupture
SD= Seam Bonding Delamination
T-Peel Test ASTM D1876 3 [Sew Fee] Original & After 25 washes: Min. 3 lbf/inch
MODIFIED Home Launderings
- Original
- After 25HL
Test Garment Mock-up - Bonded Overlapped Seam]
Modification: Gauge length: 2 inches
Reflective tape Gap Inc. S1052 3 [Sew Fee] Original & After 25 washes: 7 lbf or 50%
Stretchability MODIFIED Home Launderings Elongation
- Original Appearance: No Seam Puckering
- After 25HL
Test for Bonded Seam with Reflective Tape
Modification: Add evaluation for seam puckering
Stretching Performance Gap Inc. S1071 1 [Sew-Free] Growth: DATA only

of Bonded Seam
Modulus: DATA only
Test for bonded waist band of bottom and any high stress area to be
confirmed at development stage] Appearance: No Delamination, No
Wavy or Uneven on
Fabric Surface

4.1 WOVEN PROTOCOL
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Shear Strength of Gap Inc. S1072 3 [Sew Fee] Original & After 25 Washes: Min. 30 lbf/inch
Bonded Seam Home Launderings
Test for the overlapped bonded seam on the bottom of the patched pocket
or equivalent constructions, such as semi-glove on the sleeve which hands
may insert and shear open the seam
Test Direction: The bonded seam parallel to lengthwise and widthwise of

sample fabric)
Report the mode of failure on bonded seam:

FR= fabric rupture
SO= bonded seam split open
Strap Attachment (Strap ASTM D 1683 1 garment [Sew-Free] Seam Attachment Failure (SF): 25 lbs.
to Cup or other (Modified) per basic
Strap Breakage (SB) and Fabric 15 lbs.
Location) size Evaluate front and back strap attachment – report nature of the failure
Rupture (FR):
(Test if
Component Breakage (CB): 10 lbs.
present on
the Bartack, Reinforcement, Stress 15 lbs.
garment) Points:

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL

DENIM NOTES
1. 1HL prepared fabric & 3HL prepared fabric, refer to Section 2 for details.
Go to Package
Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 3 [Denim] < 10.0 oz/sq yd: ± 5.0% from claim
Option B – Lace
and pleated fabric Report as DATA only for: Garment/Washed Fabric: ± 5.0% from claim
- Prepared fabric after 3HL
- Development fabric - Gap Brand (Medium/Enzyme/Stone/Bleach)
- Development garment
Fabric Construction ASTM D 3775 3 [Woven and Denim fabric] < 10.0 oz/sq. yd: ± 5.0% from claim
(Woven / Denim)
≥ 10.0 oz/sq. yd: ± 3.0% from claim

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
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Color Durability
Colorfastness to ISO 105-X12/X16 1 Dry. Conduct both Dry & Wet Crocking Denim Fabric: Dry: 3.5
Crocking 1 Wet - Use ISO 105-X16 only if sample is too small to apply ISO 105-X12 Wet: 1.5
- ISO 105-X12 – only use cylindrical shape rubbing finger Denim Garment: Dry: 3.5
Wet: 2
If Failure occurs for either dry or wet crocking, launder once as per care Infant (0-36 months): Dry: 4
China Market only (Kids of Baby): Wet: 3
For China Market:
- For failures: Labs to specify "Fail for China Market Only"
For Printed (P) qualities:

- Evaluation should be conducted on the garment or fabric that is being
- Report as DATA
Print:
Self-Staining: 4
Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to Light ISO 105-B02 1 Modifications: Denim - White and Light (Abraded or 3
(Method 3) 1) General, Swimwear and Intimate: Fade ISO Blue Wool No. 4 to Grade 4, Sanded) areas:
Modified stop test, record amount of exposure time in hours as DATA. Denim (Colored): 3.5

test, record amount of exposure time in hours as DATA.
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
cm):
100 cm):
Self-Staining: 4
cm):


Gas Fumes 1 cycle
2 Cycles

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
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Dimensional Stability to Fabric: 3 Each [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Rigid Fabric
Home Laundering AATCC 135 Direction
Shrinkage - Non-Stretch Direction: -4%
(Denim) (Option 2) Garment: Bulk Fabric Quality submits:
Garment: “one for - Test as submitted under the care instruction: Machine Wash Hot, Tumble
Shrinkage - Stretch Direction with -8% Max. shrinkage;
AATCC 150 each POM” Dry Medium only
Maximum Elongation < 35%: +/-2% Variance of
refer to
Claim
Appendix 1 Rigid Fabric:
Shrinkage - Stretch Direction with -15% Max. shrinkage;
for the How - If mill spec variation is not provided where it is a requirement, lab should
Maximum Elongation ≥35%: +/-3% Variance of
to Measure issue a FAIL.
Claim
Guidelines
Growth 0%
Garment/Washed Fabric/Fabric for Non-wash Garment:

Shrinkage: -2.5% x -2.5%
Growth: 1.0% x 1.0%
Mixed Media (Denim with other construction)

Components:
Growth: 0%
Dimensional Stability to AATCC 158 Fabric: [1 Commercial Dry Cleaning] Shrinkage: -2.5% x -2.5%
Growth: 1% x 1%
Cleaning direction
Garment:
“one for
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guidelines
General Appearance As per care label. 1 [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Color Change - General 3.5 (Gap Brand only)
Before and After Home If no care label 3.0 (Non-Gap Brands)
Laundering finalized, use Report all observations inclusive of Colorfastness to Actual Laundering, rate Self-Staining: 4
expected care with AATCC Evaluation Test Procedures at both fabric & garment stages,
Seam Smoothness (Mixed Media 3.5
label. pilling using ASTM D 3514 Photographic Standard Replicas (for Woven) or
only):
Report Color Change result of the base fabric with suppressor if 1) failure
occurs AND 2) the base fabric is a white/pastel color (DATA only)
results)
appearance.



4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
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Self-Staining: 4
Cleaning expected care with AATCC evaluation test procedures at both fabric & garment stages, Seam Smoothness (Mixed Media 3.5
label. pilling using ASTM D 3514 Photographic Standard Replicas (for woven) or only):
ASTM D3512 Photographic Standard Replicas (for knit). Appearance: Satisfactory
results)
Observations:
appearance.
Torque After Home Fabric: 1 [Denim] Woven Denim Max. 3.0%

Laundering AATCC 179 Not applicable for Rigid Denim Fabric
Knit Denim Max 5.0%
Method 2. Option
3 [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes]
Garment:
Gap Inc S 1053
Torque After Fabric: 1 [Denim] Woven Denim Max. 3.0%

Commercial Dry AATCC 179 Not applicable for Denim Rigid Fabric
Knit Denim Max 5.0%
3 [1 Commercial Dry Cleaning]
Garment:
Gap Inc S 1053
Skew Movement Gap Inc. S 1048 1 [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] ± 3.0%
Bulk Fabric Quality submits:

- Test as submitted under the care instruction: Machine Wash Hot, Tumble
Dry Medium only

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Self-Staining: 4

• Metallic prints
• Foil prints
• Flocking
etc.)

to the test report.
Note:

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Physical Durability
Abrasion Resistance (By ISO 12947-2 3 [Denim] Abrasion Resistance: DATA only
Martindale) Applicable for:
- All types of CV Regenerated Cellulosic contents (not inclusive of CV
Cotton, but including Tencel and Modal), AND
- Constructions/Dyes: Twill and plain weave dyed with 100% Indigo dye or
Indigo dye/Sulfur or sulphur in warp yarn]
Conduct 20.000 cycles
Report any adverse effects at the interval steps and at the end point
Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3514 2 [Woven Denim] General (Including Corduroy, except 3
(By Elastomeric Pad) - Applicate to: Cotton/Polyester/Regenerated Cellulose blends only AND Melton):
the Regenerated Cellulose content ≥10%]
- Conduct 300 cycles

- Test face side only
- Back side test - on request.
Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512 1 [Knit Denim, Knit Intimate, Tights] Knit Denim: 3
(By Random Tumble)
30 minutes. Report average.
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 Most Knits: [Knit Denim] < 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 40 PSI
Mullen Burst only 5 Record all and report average.
≥ 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 50 PSI
(not pneumatic Lace & If No Burst is yielded, issue PASS
Method) and Special
Model C only Knits: 10 Notes:
- Fabrics/Lace/Seamless Garments with different zones with different
bursting properties, the specimen area must clearly be marked on a
diagram (attached to the mill spec.) and provided to the lab to ensure
testing consistency from development to bulk testing.
Bursting Strength - After ASTM D 3786 Most Knits: [Knit Denim] < 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 40 PSI
Ageing AATCC 26 5 [Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100% Sulfur only]
≥ 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 50 PSI
Mullen Burst only Lace &
(not pneumatic Special Record all and report average.
Method) and Knits: 10 If No Burst is yielded, issue PASS
Model C only
Notes:

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
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Stretch and Recovery Gap Inc. S1066 3 [Woven Denim] 3 Washes 1 Dry Prepared Fabric
(Denim) 1
Elongation: +/- 10% of spec
If direction of stretch cannot be determined or if it is bi-stretch. test both
directions. Modulus (lbf @25%): +/- 25% of spec
If the garment has insufficient fabric to proceed with testing, the test Garment - As Received (Except Gap & BR)
submitter must send 2 leg panels (min. width 10” x length 24”) of garment Elongation: +/- 10% approved
washed/GD fabric to conduct the testing. wash target*
submitted by vendor
Report the: Modulus (lbf @25%): +/- 25% approved
- Elongation (%) at the specified loading wash target*
- Growth (%) and Recovery (%) at 85% of maximum elongation after 30 submitted by vendor
minutes and 4 hours
- Modulus (lbf) at 10%, 20%, 25%, 30% and 40% elongations
Garment - As Received (Gap & BR)
If claim is not provided, lab issues FAIL Elongation: +/- 10% approved
wash target*
*Note: Approved wash target is the approved sample from brand during submitted by vendor
development stage. Modulus (lbf @25%): +/- 10% approved
wash target*
submitted by vendor
Recovery (All)
Old Navy (Elongation Claim >25% ≥85%
spec):
Old Navy (Elongation Claim 20-25% ≥80%
spec):
Old Navy (Elongation Claim <20% ≥75%
spec):
Gap & BR (Elongation Claim >25% ≥85%
spec):
Gap & BR (Elongation Claim ≤25% DATA only
spec):
Athleta: ≥85%
Growth after 30 min. (All): ≤5%
Stretch and Recovery Gap Inc. S1067 3 [Woven Denim] Growth @30 minutes and 4 hours ≤3% after 30 minutes
(Denim) 2 relaxation
When Max. Elongation (as per method Gap Inc. S1066) is ≥35%, further Recovery @30 minutes and 4 hours DATA only
conduct Gap Inc S1067 using 25% Fixed Elongation relaxation

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
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Stretch and Recovery ASTM D 2594 3 [For Knit fabrics and garments containing Elastomeric Fiber – with the ALL BRANDS DENIM Category:
(Knit with Elastomeric (Modified) exception of Swimwear and Intimates]
Elongation (in Development): FAIL if Elongation
Yarn) 1 [Knit Denim Fabrics or Knit Denim Garments containing Elastomeric Fiber
cannot reach required
only]
Elongation for Growth
determination
Activewear will have to be indicated on the TRF. Requires nomination if it’s
<10% spandex.
- High Performance which is held to a tighter modulus requirement will Elongation (in Development): DATA only if
have to be indicated on the TRF. Specific nominate by brand is required. Elongation can reach
required Elongation
Refers to Procedure 7.2 on Laboratory Sampling Unit; for Growth
- Apply 5 lbs. load determination
- Measure Time Dependent Growth, Elongation & Recovery using 60
minutes ALL BRANDS ISS Category:
Elongation: +/- 15% of mill spec
If elongation under 5.0 lbs meets min. 15% (length) & 30% (width) under
loose fitting, or min. 35% (length) & 60% width) under tight fitting, Growth: Max. 5%
measure the growth / recovery percentage with loose / tight fitting setting Recovery: DATA Only
accordingly. If not, measure the growth/ recovery percentage based on the
maximum elongation under 5.0 lbs.
ASTM D 2594 - Applicable to:

- <10% elastomeric fiber
- ALL Kids/Baby products with Elastomeric Fiber any % (Excluding
Test Modifications: (For All Brands Knits Category only)

<5% Elastomer:
- Development with end-use as tight fitting/ not provided: Test both setting
(loose fitting & tight fitting) for Growth determination
- Development with end-use as loose fitting only: Use 15% length and 30%
width elongation for Growth determination
- Production: Base on end-use fitting type for measuring Growth
≥ 5% elastomer: Use 35% length and 60% width elongation for Growth
determination
Test Modifications: (For Athleta – ISS Category)

< 10% elastomer: Use 15% length and 30% width elongation for growth
determination
Test Modifications: (For other brands – ISS Category)

determination
≥ 5% elastomer: Use 35% length and 60% width elongation for growth
determination
If no claim is given, issue FAIL
Notes:
Fabrics/Lace/Seamless Garments with different zones with different S&R
properties, the specimen area must clearly be marked on a diagram

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Stretch and Recovery Gap Inc. S 1033 3 Applicable to For All Gap Body Products, GapFit (Adult & Kids), Old Navy
(Knit with Elastomeric ≥10% elastomeric fiber, Non-Swimwear/Intimate Active Products or other brands when Activewear is
Yarn) 2 indicated:
If no claim is given, issue FAIL Recovery (After 4 hours recovery): Min. 95%
Notes: Modulus (lbf @20%, 40% & 60%) - +/- 20% of specs
Fabrics/Lace/Seamless Garments with different zones with different S&R for High Performance: Pass/fail is @40% and
properties, the specimen area must clearly be marked on a diagram @60% Modulus
consistency from development to bulk testing. Modulus (lbf @20%, 40% & 60%) - +/- 25% of specs
for others: Pass/fail is @40%
Modulus
Growth: DATA Only
For Old Navy, Gap & GO Adults, BR, BRFS:

Recovery (After 4 hours recovery): Min. 90%
Modulus (lbf @20%, 40% & 60%): DATA Only

Elongation: DATA Only
Growth: DATA Only
For Old Navy only: (Effective Spring 2024)


Growth: DATA Only
For Gap & GO Adults, BR, BRFS: (Effective Spring 2024)


Growth: DATA Only
For Athleta:
- Fabric used for Elastic Trim
Recovery (After 4 hours recovery) - Min. 90%
Others:
Modulus (lbf @20%, 40% & 60%) - +/- 20% of specs
for High Performance: Pass/fail is @40% and
@60% Modulus

Modulus
Modulus (lbf @50%, 80%): DATA only
Growth: DATA Only

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
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Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 3 Each [Denim] 3 Washes 1 Dry Prepared Fabric & Fabric for Non-Wash
Direction Requirements (Warp x Weft) – Report all readings and average, PASS/FAIL Garment
based on the lowest reading - Bottoms. Skirt, Outerwear. and all fabric without known end-
use:
Test specimen should be taken from the most heavily abraded area AND Fabric Weight: ≤3 oz/sq yd: 55 x 40 lbs.
unabraded area (Example: From the abraded and unabraded section; non-
Fabric Weight: 3.1 - 6 oz/sq yd: 65 x 50 lbs.
whiskered or not sanded and sanded portions; due to one or more of the
processes like dry processing, resin finish. etc.) Fabric Weight: 6.1 - 10 oz/sq yd: 110 x 70 lbs.
Fabric Weight: >10 oz/sq yd: 140 x 90 lbs.
Indicate on results where the specimen was taken from for both tests
(abraded vs unabraded) Mill Spec Variation: Not lower than 10%
of mill claim
3 WASHES 1 DRY PREPARED FABRIC & Fabric for non-wash garment (Use
bottoms and outerwear standards if end-use unknown) 3 Washes 1 Dry Prepared Fabric & Fabric for Non-Wash
Garment
In addition to the minimum requirements above, it must meet the spec - Fabric for Tops, Long Shirts, Dresses and Overall:
variation. Fabric Weight: ≤3 oz/sq yd: 40 x 30 lbs.
If a spec variation isn’t provided, issue FAIL. Fabric Weight: 3.1 - 6 oz/sq yd: 55 x 40 lbs.
- Not lower than 10% of claim
Garment/Washed Fabric: Fabric Weight: >10 oz/sq yd: 100 x 60 lbs.
Test specimen should be taken from the most heavily abraded area AND
Mill Spec Variation: Not lower than 10%
unabraded area
of mill claim
Garment/Washed Fabric
- Bottoms, Skirts, and Outerwear:
- Tops, Long Shirts, Dresses and Overall:
Tensile Strength – After ASTM D 5034 3 Each [Denim] 3 Washes 1 Dry Prepared Fabric & Fabric for Non-Wash
Ageing AATCC 26 Direction [Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100% Sulfur only] Garment
[Coated Fabrics – Request Only on Fabric Stage] - Bottoms. Skirt, Outerwear. and all fabric without known end-
- (Does not include functional coatings such as Water Resistant coatings, use:
which are covered under their specific testing. Refer to Special Claims Fabric Weight: ≤3 oz/sq yd: 55 x 40 lbs.
All 100% sulphur dyed programs requirements should be the same as Fabric Weight: 6.1 - 10 oz/sq yd: 110 x 70 lbs.
general tensile requirements for end use. Fabric Weight: >10 oz/sq yd: 140 x 90 lbs.
Requirements (Warp x Weft) – Report all readings and average, PASS/FAIL Mill Spec Variation: Not lower than 10%
based on the lowest reading of mill claim
Test specimen should be taken from the most heavily abraded area AND 3 Washes 1 Dry Prepared Fabric & Fabric for Non-Wash
unabraded area (example: from the abraded and unabraded section; non- Garment
whiskered or not sanded and sanded portions; due to one or more of the - Fabric for Tops, Long Shirts, Dresses and Overall:
processes like dry processing. resin finish. etc.) Fabric Weight: ≤3 oz/sq yd: 40 x 30 lbs.
(abraded vs unabraded) Fabric Weight: 6.1 - 10 oz/sq yd: 80 x 55 lbs.
of mill claim

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
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Tear Strength Fabrics ≤ 10 oz: 2 Each [Denim] 3 Washes 1 Dry Prepared Fabric & Fabric for Non-Wash
ASTM D 1424 Direction Garment
Requirements (Warp x Weft) – Report all readings and average, PASS/FAIL - Bottoms. Skirt, Outerwear. and all fabric without known end-
Fabrics > 10 oz: based on the lowest reading use:
ASTM D 2261 Fabric Weight: ≤3 oz/sq yd: 3.0 x 3.0 lbs.
Test specimen should be taken from the most heavily abraded area AND
unabraded area (Example: from the abraded and unabraded section; non-
whiskered or not sanded and sanded portions; due to one or more of the Fabric Weight: 6.1 - 10 oz/sq yd: 7.0 x 5.5 lbs.
processes like dry processing, resin finish, etc.) Fabric Weight: >10 oz/sq yd: 9.0 x 7.0 lbs.
Indicate on results where the specimen was taken from for both tests Mill Spec Variation: Not lower than 15%
(abraded vs unabraded) of mill claim
3 Washes 1 Dry Prepared Fabric & Fabric for Non-Wash

Garment
- Fabric for Tops, Long Shirts, Dresses and Overall:
Fabric Weight: >10 oz/sq yd: 7.5 x 5.0 lbs.
of mill claim
Tear Strength – After Fabrics ≤ 10 oz: 2 Each [Denim] 3 Washes 1 Dry Prepared Fabric & Fabric for Non-Wash
Ageing ASTM D 1424 Direction [Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100% Sulfur only] Garment
Fabrics > 10 oz: Coated Fabrics - Request Only on Fabric stage] - Bottoms. Skirt, Outerwear. and all fabric without known end-
ASTM D 2261 - (Does not include functional coatings such as Water Resistant coatings, use:
AATCC 26 which are covered under their specific testing. Refer to Special Claims Fabric Weight: ≤3 oz/sq yd: 3.0 x 3.0 lbs.
All 100% sulphur dyed programs requirements should be the same as Fabric Weight: 6.1 - 10 oz/sq yd: 7.0 x 5.5 lbs.
general tear requirements for end use. Fabric Weight: >10 oz/sq yd: 9.0 x 7.0 lbs.
Requirements (Warp x Weft) – Report all readings and average, PASS/FAIL Mill Spec Variation: Not lower than 15%
based on the lowest reading. of mill claim
Test specimen should be taken from the most heavily abraded area AND 3 Washes 1 Dry Prepared Fabric & Fabric for Non-Wash
unabraded area (example: from the abraded and unabraded section; non- Garment
whiskered or not sanded and sanded portions; due to one or more of the - Fabric for Tops, Long Shirts, Dresses and Overall:
processes like dry processing, resin finish, etc.) Fabric Weight: ≤3 oz/sq yd: 2.5 x 2.5 lbs.
(abraded vs unabraded) Fabric Weight: 6.1 - 10 oz/sq yd: 6.0 x 4.5 lbs.
of mill claim

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
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Seam Slippage Fabric: Fabric: [Denim] Woven Denim - Tops, Long Shirts, Dresses and overall:
ASTM D 434 3 Each
Direction Garment: Test each seam across the seam
Garment: Test all seams, including pockets Fabric Weight >6 oz/sq yd: 25 x 25
ASTM D 1683 Garment:
Modified 1 Each If end use is not known or specified, use Outerwear spec. Woven Denim - Bottoms, Skirts and Outerwear:
Seam Fabric Weight ≤6 oz/sq yd: 20 x 20
Min Requirements: Warp x Weft (lbs./in @ ¼” separation)
Fabric Weight >6 oz/sq yd: 30 x 30
Seam Strength Fabric: 1 Each [Denim] Woven Denim - Tops, Long Shirts,
ASTM D 434 Seam Garment: Each seam across the seam Dresses and overall:
Garment: Test all seams, including pockets Fabric Weight ≤3 oz/sq yd: 20 x 15 lbs.
ASTM D 1683 mod
Fabric Weight: ≥6.0 oz/sq yd: 35 x 35 lbs.
In garment form, if direction is indeterminate, use lowest directional
standard for the PASS/FAIL. Woven Denim - Bottoms, Skirts and
Outerwear:
Labs should follow the direction of yarns and not the stitch direction, while Fabric Weight ≤3 oz/sq yd: 30 x 20 lbs.
choosing the requirements. Fabric Weight: 3.1 – 6 oz/sq yd: 35 x 25 lbs.
Requirement (lbs.): (Seam//Weft x Seam//Warp) Fabric Weight: ≥6.0 oz/sq yd: 35 x 35 lbs.
Bartack Reinforcements: 20 lbs. min.
Mixed Media:
Denim to other construction - Tops: 20 x 20 lbs. or 50%

Elongation
Denim to other construction - 35 x 35 lbs. or 50%
Seam Slippage and ASTM D 1683 2 Test all seam types Seam Slippage 15 x 15 lbs.
Seam Strength of (Modified) Warp x weft (lbs./in @ ¼”
Pocketing Fabric separation):
Seam Strength: Min. 30 lbs.
Seam Stretchability Gap Inc. S 1052 All Seams [Knit Denim] All seams: 7 lbs. or 50%
Test all seams Elongation
Side Slits: Min. 10 lbs.
Shoulder Strap to Body:

≤ 5.0 oz/yd²: Min. 10 lbs.
> 5.0 oz/yd²: Min. 15.0 lbs.
Bartack, Reinforcement, Stress Min. 15.0 lbs.
Points:
Mixed Media
Knit to other construction - Top: 20 x 20 lbs. or 50%
Elongation
Knit to other construction - 35 x 35 lbs. or 50%
Belt Loop Attachment ASTM D 1683 3 [Woven and Denim Bottoms] Woven Denim:
Strength (Modified) Test on below locations (if applicable):
Thread Belt Loops: Min. 13 lbs.
- Low End @ Front
- Low End @ Side All other Belt Loops Min. 25 lbs.
- Low End @ Back Knit Denim
- High End (any one from front, side or back)
Thread Belt Loops: Min. 10 lbs.
- High End Corner
- Belt Loop Corner @ Front All other Belt Loops: Min. 20 lbs.
- Belt Loop Corner @ Side
- Belt Loop Corner @ Back
[Others]
Test one from the side, front and back, if the fabric constructions are same

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Pocket Stress Area Gap Inc. S1028 2 [Back Pocket] Pocket Stress Area: 30% below original
warp tensile standard.
Pocket Attachment Gap Inc. S 1027 1 CRE, Test one of each type of pocket Woven Denim - Tops. Long Shirts. Dresses. Overall:
Strength
≤3 oz/sq yd: 13 lbs.
3.1 – 5 oz/sq yd: 17 lbs.
Woven Denim - Bottoms, Skirts, and Outerwear:

≤5.0 oz/sq yd: 20.0 lbs.
>5.0 oz/sq yd: 25.0 lbs.
Knit Denim
Functional: 7lbs or 50%
Elongation
Non-Functional: 5 lbs. or 50%
Elongation

Baby (6-12M) - Size M: 20”
Resistance to ASTM D 4846 All CRE or Chatillon push gauge. 2.0 lb. min. – 8.0 lb.
Fasteners
female components).

4.2 DENIM PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Chemical
pH Value (Textile) ISO 3071 1 Extraction solution should utilize KCL (Potassium Chloride) General, including White Fabric 5.5 - 7.0
Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.
pH value (Textile) - ISO 3071 1 [Denim] Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
After Ageing [Sulfur black/Sulfur grey/100% Sulfur only]

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL

KNIT NOTES
1. Scope:
• Cut & sew, except adult women and girls' bras, panties and sports bras which should refer to Intimate Apparel Protocol
• Seamless products of:
- Women/Girls - Top & Bottoms: Follow Knit Protocol
- Men/Boys - Underwear, Top & Bottoms: Follow Knit Protocol
- Women/Girls - Bra & Panties (underwear): Follow Intimate Apparel Protocol
2. For recycled/organic cotton developments, contact the relevant Category PI to align on an extended testing plan to the durability of the fabric and garment.
Go to Package
Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 3 [Knit, Intimate] < 10.0 oz / sq. yd & Drop Needle ± 5.0% from claim
Option C - General Sample cutter & balance; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings Fabric:
Option B – Lace ≥10.0 oz/sq. yd: ± 3.0% from claim
and pleated fabric Test both washed and Non-Washed Fabric.
Fabric Construction ASTM D 3887 3 [Knitted fabric] < 10.0 oz / sq. yd & Drop Needle ± 5.0% from claim
(Knit) Fabric:
Pick Glass; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings. ≥ 10.0 oz/ sq. yd: ± 3.0% from claim
Yarn Size (Woven / Knit) ASTM D 1059 2 [Knit] ± 5.0% from claim
Analytical balance; Outside 10% variation, take 2 more readings
Test 1 light and 1 dark color among the colorways

This means if in fabric full a dark color was submitted, only test light in
additional colorways.
Stitch Length Standard measure 1 If stitch length mill claim for ≥ 10% spandex (Activewear or High <10% spandex and not Activewear or DATA only
Performance) is not provided, Lab issues as FAIL. High Performance:
≥ 10% spandex, Activewear and High ± 5.0% from claim
Performance:
Tightness Factor Gap Inc. S 1049 1 [Jersey, Rib, and Interlock constructions only without Spandex] DATA only
(calculated) - Calculate stitch length based on average results of fabric construction and
fabric weight measurements. Report the average data in mm.
- Calculate tightness factor based on stitch length and yarn count.
Tightness factor has no requirement except that it must be provided if it is

one of the contents and constructions that it is selectively applied to. Do
not pass/fail based on a spec variation but issue DATA only.
Tightness Factor
= [10 x √(5905/English yarn count)]/(Stitch length in mm)

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Color Durability

- Report as DATA
Print:
Self-Staining: 4
Chlorine Bleach
All Neon: 2
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
cm):
100 cm):
Self-Staining: 4
cm):


Gas Fumes 1 cycle
2 Cycles
Phenolic Yellowing

Self-Staining 4

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
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Water
Color Staining 3
Self-Staining 4

Liquid Staining of Gap Inc S 1073 1 [Dark colors for China Market JAC order only] Staining 3
Colorfastness to
Soaking

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
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Dimensional Stability to Fabric: Fabric : [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Shrinkage
Home Laundering (Knit) AATCC 135 3 Each - Weft Knits - Pre-shrunk (washed):
(Option 2) Direction Pre-shrunk - All washed – including spray/tumble process and compacted Natural – Jersey and 1x1 Rib: -3.5% x -3.5%
Garment: Garment: programs [Fabric & Garment]
AATCC 150 “one for Natural – Jersey and 1x1 Rib with -5% x -5%
each POM” Note slub:
refer to *: If the fabric shrinkage is greater than -6%, the Mill and PD team must [Fabric & Garment]
Appendix 1 work with the Vendor(s) to verify whether the garment shrinkage is able to Natural – 2x2 Rib. Double Knit, Pique, -6% x- 6%
for the How comply to the garment shrinkage requirements. Garment/panel wash may Interlock, French Rib, French Terry,
to Measure need to be added in order for the end product meet to the shrinkage Waffle, Thermal, and Fleece (with or
Guidelines standard. without slub):
[Fabric & Garment]
**: If there are 2 selections for requirements, select the strictest one. Regenerated Cellulose: -6% x -6%
[Fabric & Garment]
Synthetic: -2% x -2%
[Fabric & Garment]
Shrinkage
- Weft Knits - Non pre-shrunk (Regular):
Natural – Jersey and 1x1 Rib: -6% x -6%
[Fabric & Garment]
Natural – 2x2 Rib, Double Knit, Pique, -8% x -8%
Interlock, French Rib, French Terry,
Waffle, Thermal, and Fleece and
other constructions:
[Fabric]
Natural – 2x2 Rib, Double Knit, Pique, -6% x- 6%
Interlock, French Rib, French Terry,
Waffle, Thermal, and Fleece and
other constructions:
[Garment]
Regenerated Cellulose: -8% x -8%
[Fabric]
Regenerated Cellulose: -6% x- 6%
[Garment]
Synthetic: -3.5% x -3.5%
[Fabric & Garment]
Shrinkage
- Warp Knits - Non Pre-Shrunk:
Natural and Regenerated: Cellulose: -5.0% x -5.0%
[Fabric & Garment]
Synthetic: -3.5% x -3.5%
[Fabric & Garment]
Shrinkage
- Warp Knits - Pre-Shrunk (Washed, including spray/tumble
process and compacted programs):
Natural and Regenerated Cellulose: -3.5% x -3.5%
[Fabric & Garment]
Synthetic -2% x -2%
[Fabric & Garment]
Growth: 2% x 2%
Mixed Media (Knit with other construction)

Components:
Growth: 0%
Growth: 0% x 0%
Cleaning direction
Garment: Lining Compatibility to Shell: -1% x -1%

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
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Report Color Change result of the base fabric with suppressor if 1) failure Pilling - Others (Pile surface of a Satisfactory
occurs AND 2) the base fabric is a white/pastel color (DATA only) Fleece Fabric /Sherpa):
Seam Smoothness (Mixed Media 3.5
Report Pilling for Pile Surface of a Fleece Fabric /Sherpa (if applicable) only):
- Report as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Use replica to evaluate the test Appearance: Satisfactory
results)
appearance.


Report Pilling for Pile Surface of a Fleece Fabric /Sherpa (if applicable) Piling - Pile surface of a Fleece Fabric Satisfactory
- Report as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Use replica to evaluate the test /Sherpa):
results) Seam Smoothness (Mixed Media 3.5
only):
Observations: Appearance: Satisfactory
appearance.
Torque After Home Fabric: 1 [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Max 5.0%
Laundering AATCC 179
Method 2. Option
3
Garment:
Gap Inc S 1053
Torque After Fabric: 1 [1 Commercial Dry Cleaning] Max 5.0%

Commercial Dry AATCC 179
3
Garment:
Gap Inc S 1053

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
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Self-Staining: 4

• Metallic prints
• Foil prints
• Flocking
etc.)

to the test report.
Note:

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Physical Durability
Test Face and Back
Abrasion Resistance ISO 12945-2 2 [For Swimwear - Only for Athleta] Abrasion Resistance: DATA only
(Athleta Swimwear) Modified– - Request only
Martindale
Abradant: 3M™ Report the appearance at 150 cycles
268XA Trizact™ Continue the test until the end point or until 5000 cycles.
film abrasives - - Report the number of cycles at the end point
Grade A35MIC – - Report Appearance at End point: Severe fuzzy appearance or fiber broken
127.0 mm and protruded
Abrasion Resistance ASTM D3514 2 [For surface designs/coatings (excluding those with functional coating that Abrasion Resistance: DATA only
(Modified with Modified – Stretch are tested under the special claims protocol e.g. water resistant coatings)]
Stretching) fabric – test in the (Only for Athleta development)
stretch state at [Test on Request]
20%
Report the appearance at 300 cycles
Continue the test until the end point or until 1200 cycles.
- Report the number of cycles at the end point
- Report End point: Any appearance change (e.g. loss of lustre. foil print rub
off etc.)
Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512 1 [Knit] Regular Finished Fabric and all BR, 3
(By Random Tumble) 30 minutes. Report average. BRFS products and all Athleta
products:
*For Athleta - PASS/FAIL based on either the general requirements OR the Special Finished Fabric (Including 2.5
higher requirement as specified on the signed fabric data sheet agreed at Sueded, Brushed, Peached Finished
Development Fabric, Chief Value Rayon Blends):
(The test submitter must attach the Mill signed fabric sheet to the Test
Request Form) FR Polyester Sleepwear (100% 2.5
Polyester Sleepwear only, including (for Plain Surface)
Others (Pile surface of a fleece fabric/Sherpa): Plain and Flannel/Fleece):
- Report result as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Refer to Appendix 3: Pilling
Standard Replica to evaluate the test results) Others (Pile Surface of a Fleece Fabric DATA only
- Evaluate both Face and Back side at Development stage (Except Old Navy /Sherpa):
& Athleta – Evaluate Face side only for Old Navy & Athleta)
- Evaluate Face side only for bulk fabric and garment
(Mill is required to mark which side is garment face for testing)
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 Most Knits: Record all and report average. < 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 40 psi
Mullen Burst only 5 If No Burst is yielded, issue PASS
≥ 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 50 psi
(not pneumatic Lace &
Method) and Special Notes: Special Knit (Lace, Mesh, Raschel, 25 PSI
Model C only Knits: 10 - Fabrics/Lace/Seamless Garments with different zones with different Tricot width ≥ 2.5 inches):
Bursting Strength - After ASTM D 3786 Most Knits: [Knit] < 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 40 psi
Ageing AATCC 26 5 [100% Sulfur Only]
≥ 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 50 psi
Mullen Burst only Lace &
(not pneumatic Special Record all and report average. Special Knit (Lace, Mesh, Raschel, 25 PSI
Method) and Knits: 10 If No Burst is yielded, issue PASS Tricot ≥ 2.5 inches):
Model C only
Notes:

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
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Snagging BS 8479 2 Each [Knit] Snag Grade 3.5
Direction [For Old Navy Only] - Test if applicable (All Brands Except Athleta):
[For Brands Except Old Navy] Snag Grade (Athleta): DATA only
- Request only
- Test if the Mill/Vendor/Development team call out there is a snagging risk
Applicable to:
- Construction: Raised/Uneven surface (Excluding Tufted/Pile Surface
Fabrics), Float yarns

Shedding Gap Inc. S 1036 1 [Knit ] Syringe Value - Fleece: Slight: ≤0.8ml
Syringe Value - Sherpa / Faux Fur: Slight: ≤1.0ml
Fleece (only fibers contents that are blended or 100% Polyester with
recycled content) & Sherpa & (Faux Fur – For Gap brand only) Fiber Loss in (g) and (%): DATA only
Reporting:
- Report Classification of the fibers collected & measured by Syringe
Evaluation. Details refer to Gap S1036.
- Report Average fiber loss in gram, to an accuracy of 0.01g.
- Insert a syringe photo in test report when test result is FAIL.
Stretch and Recovery ASTM D 2594 3 [Without Spandex or Elastomeric Yarn] Recovery: Development: Min.
(Knit without (Modified) 60%
Elastomeric Yarn) Refers to procedure 10.4 Elongation: DATA only
Fabric Stretch - Apply 3.0 lbs. load by cycling until two specimens for each
Growth: DATA only
wale / course directions have been tested for each laboratory sampling
units.
If Elongation under 3.0 lbs. meets min. 15% (length) & 30% (width),
measure the Growth/ Recovery percentage with loose fitting (comfort
stretch) setting.
If not, measure the Growth/ Recovery percentage based on the Maximum
Elongation under 3.0 lbs.
PASS/FAIL based on Recovery is only issued at development stage

DATA only is issued at production stage
Measure Time Dependent Growth & Recovery using 60 minutes.

- Report growth, elongation and recovery.
Notes:
- Fabrics/Lace/Seamless Garments with different zones with different S&R

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
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Stretch and Recovery ASTM D 2594 3 [For Knit fabrics and garments containing Elastomeric Fiber – with the ALL BRANDS KNITS Category:
(Knit with Elastomeric (Modified) exception of Swimwear and Intimates]
Elongation (in Development) Length: Min. 15%
Yarn) 1 [Knit Denim Fabrics or Knit Denim Garments containing Elastomeric Fiber
- Loose Fitting: Width: Min. 30%
only]
Elongation (in Development) Length: Min. 35%
-Tight Fitting: Width: Min. 60%
Activewear will have to be indicated on the TRF. Requires nomination if it’s
Elongation (in Production): +/- 15% of mill spec at
<10% spandex.
bulk
- High Performance which is held to a tighter modulus requirement will
Growth: Max. 5%
have to be indicated on the TRF. Specific nominate by brand is required.
Recovery: DATA Only
Refers to Procedure 7.2 on Laboratory Sampling Unit;
- Apply 5 lbs. load ALL BRANDS ISS Category:
- Measure Time Dependent Growth, Elongation & Recovery using 60
minutes
Growth: Max. 5%
If elongation under 5.0 lbs meets min. 15% (length) & 30% (width) under
loose fitting, or min. 35% (length) & 60% width) under tight fitting, Recovery: DATA Only
measure the growth / recovery percentage with loose / tight fitting setting
accordingly. If not, measure the growth/ recovery percentage based on the
maximum elongation under 5.0 lbs.
ASTM D 2594 - Applicable to:

- <10% elastomeric fiber
- ALL Kids/Baby products with Elastomeric Fiber any % (Excluding
Test Modifications: (For All Brands Knits Category only)

<5% Elastomer:
- Development with end-use as tight fitting/ not provided: Test both setting
(loose fitting & tight fitting) for Growth determination
- Development with end-use as loose fitting only: Use 15% length and 30%
width elongation for Growth determination
- Production: Base on end-use fitting type for measuring Growth
≥ 5% elastomer: Use 35% length and 60% width elongation for Growth
determination
Test Modifications: (For Athleta – ISS Category)

determination
Test Modifications: (For other brands – ISS Category)

determination
≥ 5% elastomer: Use 35% length and 60% width elongation for growth
determination
Notes:
Fabrics/Lace/Seamless Garments with different zones with different S&R

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
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Stretch and Recovery Gap Inc. S 1033 3 Applicable to For All Gap Body Products, GapFit (Adult & Kids), Old Navy
(Knit with Elastomeric ≥10% elastomeric fiber, Non-Swimwear/Intimate Active Products or other brands when Activewear is
Yarn) 2 indicated:
If no claim is given, issue FAIL Recovery (After 4 hours recovery): Min. 95%
Notes: Modulus (lbf @20%, 40% & 60%) - +/- 20% of specs
Fabrics/Lace/Seamless Garments with different zones with different S&R for High Performance: Pass/fail is @40% and
properties, the specimen area must clearly be marked on a diagram @60% Modulus
Modulus
Growth: DATA Only
For Old Navy, Gap & GO Adults, BR, BRFS:

Growth: DATA Only
For Old Navy only: (Effective Spring 2024)


Growth: DATA Only
For Gap & GO Adults, BR, BRFS: (Effective Spring 2024)


Growth: DATA Only
For Athleta:
- Fabric used for Elastic Trim
Recovery (After 4 hours recovery) - Min. 90%
Others:
for High Performance: Pass/fail is @40% and
@60% Modulus

Modulus
Modulus (lbf @50%, 80%): DATA only
Growth: DATA Only
[For Swimwear & Intimates with Elastomeric Fiber] For Swimwear & Intimate
Recovery (After 4 hour recovery): Min. 95%
Report Elongation, Recovery, Growth, and Modulus at all loadings.
Modulus (lbf @20%. 40% & 60%): +/- 25% of specs
If no claim is given, issue FAIL Pass/fail is @40% and
@60% modulus
Issue N/A if the garment dimension is not large enough Elongation: +/- 10% of spec
Growth DATA Only
Notes:

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
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Seam Stretchability Gap Inc. S 1052 All Seams [Knit] All seams:
Athleta Performance Bottoms & 14 lbs. and 100%
Test all seams including:
Performance Dresses – Elongation
- hybrid style seams using two different fabric qualities/types seam
Yoga/Train/Studio only:
together
Pants/Shorts, except Athleta 20 lbs. and 50%
Performance Bottoms & Performance Elongation
Dresses:
Others: 7 lbs or 50%
Elongation

≤ 5.0 oz/yd²: Min. 10 lbs.
> 5.0 oz/yd²: Min. 15.0 lbs.

Points:
Mixed Media
Elongation
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683 mod All Seams [Knit Mix Media garment] Seam Strength for Knit Mix Media DATA only
- Test for horizontal and vertical seam strength
Belt Loop Attachment ASTM D 1683 3 [Knit and Intimate] Thread Belt Loops: Min. 10 lbs.
Strength (Modified) Test one from the side, front and back, if the fabric constructions are same
Pocket Attachment Gap Inc. S 1027 1 CRE, Test one of each type of pocket Functional: 7lbs or 50%
Strength Elongation
Decorative: 5 lbs. or 50%
Elongation

Baby (6-12M) - Size M: 20”
Resistance to ASTM D 4846 All CRE or Chatillon push gauge. 2.0 lbs. (min.) - 8.0
Unsnapping of Snap (Perpendicular) lbs. (max.)
Fasteners
female components).

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
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Chemical
100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.
After Ageing

Down Proof IDFL 20-1, 20-2, 20- 1 Fabric stage: Required Down Proof ≥4
3 Down proof/Fill Garment stage: On Request
proof of Bulk
Fabric, Rotating For Athleta:
Box" - Down/Feather Ratio should be 75/25 with brand nominated baffle
- Fabric Development - must assess at Original, after3, 5, and 10 HL.
Fill Proof International 1 Fabric stage: Required Fill Proof ≥4

Rotating Box Garment stage: On Request
IDFL 20-1, 20-2, 20-
3Downproof/Fill
proof of Bulk
Fabric, Rotating
Box"
Test on Request
Sheerness Properties of Gap Inc. 2 [For Yoga Pants only] DATA only
Textile Fabrics Proprietary [Contact PI for test submission]
Method
Stretch percentage 40% for form fitting
Note:
- Should refer to the Appendix 4 to determine the applicability of this test.
Self-Staining: 4.5
(outerwear) only]
Graphic Stretch Test Gap Inc S 1060 2 Each [Applicable to any print on a stretch fabric] No cracking or other
Direction [Request Only] observable defects
when elongated or
If cracking occurs, please take an exhibit photo and note all observations to relaxed
print

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
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Sew-Free
General Appearance Development: 1 [Sew Free - Bonded Section] Color Change - General: 3.5
Before and After default care Development:
Laundering MWW, TDL - 25 HL (Non-Athleta)
(Sew-Free) - 20 HL (Athleta only) Self- Staining: 4
Production: Production: Pilling (Plain Surface Fabrics): 3.5
As per care label. - 10 HL
Pilling (Raised Surface Fabrics): 2.5
If no care label
finalized, use Evaluate every 5 cycles. Pilling (Pile surface of a fleece fabric Satisfactory
MWW, TDL Report all observations inclusive of pilling, CF to actual laundering rate with /Sherpa):
AATCC evaluation test procedures at both Fabric & Garment stages Appearance: - No Wavy
Appearance
*Report color change result of the base fabric with suppressor if 1) failure - No obvious
occurs AND 2) the base fabric is a white/pastel color (data only) defects/observations
affecting the end
Pilling for Pile surface of a fleece fabric /Sherpa product
- Report as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Use replica to evaluate the test performance/appeara
results) nce.
Report the Bonding Performance and Appearance Changes.

List all observations
- Details, refer to SECTION 6.2: BONDED SEAM APPEARANCE - PASS/FAIL
Report Reflective Tape Appearance

- Checking the appearance by stretching the portion in 5~10% extension
- Details, Refer to: SECTION 6.3 REFLECTIVE TAPE APPEARANCE - PASS/FAIL
EVALUATION REFERENCE PHOTO
Seam Strength of ASTM D1683 All Bonded [Sew-Free] Original & After Washes: Min. 30 lbf/inch
Bonded seams MODIFIED Seams Home Launderings
Test Actual Garment Bonded Seam
Report the mode of failure on Bonded Seam:

FR= Fabric Rupture
SD= Seam Bonding Delamination
T-Peel Test ASTM D1876 3 [Sew Fee] Original & After 25 washes: Min. 3 lbf/inch
MODIFIED Home Launderings
- Original
- After 25HL
Test Garment Mock-up - Bonded Overlapped Seam]
Modification: Gauge length: 2 inches
Reflective tape Gap Inc. S1052 3 [Sew Fee] Original & After 25 washes: 7 lbf or 50%
Stretchability MODIFIED Home Launderings Elongation
- Original Appearance: No Seam Puckering
- After 25HL
Test for Bonded Seam with Reflective Tape
Modification: Add evaluation for seam puckering
Stretching Performance Gap Inc. S1071 1 [Sew-Free] Growth: DATA only

of Bonded Seam
Modulus: DATA only
Test for bonded waist band of bottom and any high stress area to be
confirmed at development stage] Appearance: No Delamination, No
Wavy or Uneven on
Fabric Surface

4.3 KNIT PROTOCOL
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Shear Strength of Gap Inc. S1072 3 [Sew Fee] Original & After 25 Washes: Min. 30 lbf/inch
Bonded Seam Home Launderings
Test for the overlapped bonded seam on the bottom of the patched pocket
or equivalent constructions, such as semi-glove on the sleeve which hands
may insert and shear open the seam
Test Direction: The bonded seam parallel to lengthwise and widthwise of

sample fabric)
Report the mode of failure on bonded seam:

FR= fabric rupture
SO= bonded seam split open
Strap Attachment (Strap ASTM D 1683 1 garment [Sew-Free] Seam Attachment Failure (SF): 25 lbs.
to Cup or other (Modified) per basic
Location) size Evaluate front and back strap attachment – report nature of the failure
Rupture (FR):
(Test if
Component Breakage (CB): 10 lbs.
present on
garment) Points:


INTIMATE APPAREL NOTES
1. Scope:
• Adult Women and Girls - Bras and Panties, including sports bras (cut & sewn, and seamless) but exclude tops with built in pads.
Go to Package
Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 3 [Knit, Intimate] < 10.0 oz/sq yd: ± 5.0% from claim
Option B – Lace
and pleated fabric Test both washed and Non-Washed Fabric.
Fabric Construction ASTM D 3887 3 [Knitted fabric] < 10.0 oz / sq. yd ± 5.0% from claim
(Knit)
≥ 10.0 oz/ sq. yd: ± 3.0% from claim
Pick Glass; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings.
Fabric Construction ASTM D 3775 3 [Woven and Denim fabric] < 10.0 oz/sq. yd: ± 5.0% from claim
(Woven / Denim)
≥ 10.0 oz/sq. yd: ± 3.0% from claim

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Color Durability
Colorfastness to ISO 105-X12/X16 1 Dry. [Intimate] General including (including Dry: 4
Crocking 1 Wet Conduct both Dry & Wet Crocking Corduroy): Wet: 3
- Use ISO 105-X16 only if sample is too small to apply ISO 105-X12
- ISO 105-X12 – only use cylindrical shape rubbing finger
If Failure occurs for either dry or wet crocking, launder once as per care
and report the results as DATA only.

- Report as DATA
Print:
Self-Staining: 4
Chlorine Bleach
All Neon: 2
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
cm):
100 cm):
Self-Staining: 4
cm):

Colorfastness to Burnt AATCC 23 1 [Intimate] Color Change: 3.5

Gas Fumes [White only] (Including laminate
1 cycle pad and pad through
garment for bras)
Notes: For padded bras, Labs must conduct the test by preparing
specimens simulated as actual garment sample.
Evaluation:
i) for laminated pad, the Pass/Fail should be based on the laminated pad,
the foam should be reported as data
ii) pad through garments, evaluate by viewing from the shell part to
laminated pad, viewing the actual garment.
For i) and ii) the inner and outer should be evaluated and the Pass/Fail is
based on the lowest rating.

Go to Package
2 Cycles
Phenolic Yellowing

Self-Staining 4
Water
Color Staining 3
Self-Staining 4


Go to Package
Dimensional Stability to Fabric: Fabric : For Intimate Apparel fabric or garment: Shrinkage - Woven: -3.0% X -3.0%
Home Laundering AATCC 135 3 Each
Shrinkage - Knits: -5.0% x -5%
(Intimate) (Option 2) Direction [3 & 10 Home Launderings or Hand Washes]
Garment: Garment: - For General Growth: 2% x 2.0%
AATCC 150 “one for - Assess after 3 and 10 cycles. Lining Compatible with Shell: -1% x -1%
each POM” - Record observations at 3 cycles as DATA]
refer to
Components (Garment Form):
Appendix 1 [3, 10, 25 Home Launderings or Hand Washes]
for the How - for Bonded/Fused/Laminated products:
to Measure - Assess after 3, 10 and 25 cycles. Mixed Media (Knit with other construction)
Guidelines - Record observations at 3 & 25 cycles as DATA, 10 cycles as PASS/FAIL – Garment Form only:
Components:
Growth: 0%
General Appearance As per care label. 1 For Intimate Apparel fabric or garment: Color Change -Bra: 4
Color Change - Others Except Bra: 3.5
Laundering (Intimate) finalized. use [3 & 10 Home Launderings or Hand Washes]
expected care - For General Color Change - All SD/Print Except 3
label. - Assess after 3 and 10 cycles. Bra:
- Record observations at 3 as DATA Self- Staining (Bra): 5
Self- Staining (Others Except Bra): 4
[3, 10, 25 Home Launderings or Hand Washes]
Pilling (Bra): 4
- For Bonded/Fused/Laminated products
- Assess after 3, 10 and 25 cycles. Pilling (Plain Surface Fabrics Except 3.5
- Record observations at 3 & 25 cycles as DATA, 10 cycles as PASS/FAIL Bra):
Pilling (Raised Surface Fabrics (Except 2.5
[3, 10, 25 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Bra):
- For "Fit for Purpose testing" Pilling (Pile surface of a fleece fabric Satisfactory
- Assess after 3, 10 and 25 cycles. /Sherpa Except Bra):
- Record observations at 3 and 25 cycles as DATA, 10 cycles as PASS/FAIL Seam Smoothness (Mixed Media 3.5
only):
Report all observations inclusive of pilling, CF to Actual Laundering rate Appearance (General): Satisfactory
with AATCC Evaluation Test Procedures at both fabric & garment stages.
Bra (Orange Peel / Crack Marks (Pad): Min. Grade 3
Fabric
- General assessment, before and after laundering & ironing. No obvious Appearance - No wavy appearance
defects/observations affecting the end product performance & Bonded/Fused/Laminated Products:
appearance, including but not limited to frosting. Fail for slight appearance
changes.
Trims/Prints/Heat transfers
Garment
performance/appearance, satisfactory performance of the components
and trims and even distribution (no matting/shifting) of fill material for
quilted garments.
Bra parameters for Appearance After Laundering and Orange Peel /Crack
marks Evaluation:
(Details, refer to SECTION 6.1: APPEARANCE EVALUATION FOR BRA)
Additional parameters for Bonded/Fused/Laminated products:

(Details, refer to SECTION 6.2: BONDED SEAM APPEARANCE - PASS/FAIL
EVALUATION REFERENCE PHOTOS)
- Report the bonding performance and appearance changes.
- Appearance: No wavy appearance
performance/appearance.
Torque After Home Fabric: 1 (Intimate] Max 5.0%

Laundering (Intimate) AATCC 179 [3 & 10 Home Launderings or Hand Washes]
Method 2. Option - For General
3 - Assess after 3 and 10 cycles.
Garment: - Record observations at 3 cycles as DATA
Gap Inc S 1053
[3, 10, 25 Home Launderings or Hand Washes]
- for Bonded/Fused/Laminated products:
- Assess after 3, 10 and 25 cycles.
- Record observations at 3 & 25 cycles as DATA, 10 cycles as PASS/FAIL

Go to Package
Durability to Repeated Gap Inc. S 1068 1 [For Full Bonded Back Wings of Bra, Bonded Side Seam/Leg Growth: DATA only (Confirmed
Laundering and As per care label. Holes/Waistband of Panties, Bonded Waistband of Bottom, Any High Stress at Development
Stretching If no care label Bonded Area to be confirmed at Development Stage] Modulus: DATA only
finalized. use
MWW. TDL For Sew-Free Bonded Seam Garments, it is required to test at original and
after each wash for 5 cycles (stop the test if any delamination is observed
before the final cycle)
Extension applied:
- Bra: 20%
- Pantie/Waistband/High stress area: 40%
Modulus - measured by the Tensile Tester (CRE)
Each cycle, machine wash the specimen, stretching it under the specified
extension for 16 hours.
Relax the specimen at least 4 hours if product growth ≥ 3% or wavy
appearance is found.
Record the bonding performance and appearance change, growth% and
modulus.
Appearance of bonded seam:

(Details, refer to SECTION 6.2: BONDED SEAM APPEARANCE - PASS/FAIL
- Report the bonding performance and appearance changes.
- Appearance: No wavy appearance

Go to Package
Physical Durability
Test Face and Back
- Back side test - on request.
Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512 1 [Knit Denim, Knit Intimate, Tights] Knit Intimate: 4
(By Random Tumble)
30 minutes. Report average.
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 Most Knits: Record all and report average. < 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 40 PSI
≥ 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 50 PSI
Snagging BS 8479 2 Each [Intimate] Snag Grade 3.5

Direction [Request Only]
Applicable to:
- Woven and knitted fabrics made from textured/ untextured filament
yarns or spun yarns or combinations of these yarns. Certain fabric
structures with long float yarn, e.g. Satin and Sateen
Stretch and Recovery Gap Inc. S 1033 3 [For Swimwear & Intimates with Elastomeric Fiber] Recovery (After 4 hour recovery): Min. 95%
(Knit with Elastomeric
Modulus (lbf @20%. 40% & 60%): +/- 25% of specs
Yarn) 2 Report Elongation, Recovery, Growth, and Modulus at all loadings.
Pass/fail is @40% and
@60% modulus
Issue N/A if the garment dimension is not large enough Growth DATA Only
Notes:
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 3 Each [Woven, Woven Intimate] Woven Intimate Apparel Min. 35lbs
Requirements (Warp x Weft) – Report all readings and average, PASS/FAIL

Tear Strength Fabrics ≤ 10 oz: 2 Each [Woven, Woven Intimate] Intimate Apparel Min. 2.0 lbs
Fabrics > 10 oz:
ASTM D 2261 Requirements (Warp x Weft) – Report all readings and average, PASS/FAIL

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Seam Strength Fabric: 1 Each [Woven Intimate] Woven Intimate:
ASTM D 434 Seam
Fabric Weight ≤2 oz/sq yd:: 15 x 15
Garment: Requirement (lbs.): (Seam//Weft x Seam//Warp)
ASTM D 1683 mod Fabric Weight: 2.1 – 3 oz/sq yd: 20 x 20
For special Seams, if direction is indeterminate then use highest directional Fabric Weight: 3.1 – 5 oz/sq yd: 25 x 25
standard for the PASS/FAIL
Bartack Reinforcement: 30% less than above

seam requirements
for the weight
category
Felled Seam: 5 lbs. more than

normal seam
requirements for
garment end use
Mixed Media:
Woven to other construction - Top: 20 x 20 lbs. or 50%
Elongation
Woven to other construction - 35 x 35 lbs. or 50%
Seam Strength of ASTM D1683 All Seams [Test Original & After 5HL] Min. 15 lbs.
Bonded/Ultrasonic (Modified)
Seams
Bra Hook to Eye Pull ASTM D 1683 1 garment [For Intimate only] 1 Hook/Eye Bras: Min. 25lbs
Out Strength (Modified) per basic
2 or more Hook/Eye Bras: Min. 35lbs
size Close for test
Seam Strength of ASTM D 1683 1 garment [Bras - Key Fit Sizes i.e. 34B. 36C and 36DD or as requested] Min. 25lbs
Center Front Joining on (Modified) per basic
a Bra (Cup to Cup) size
Strap Attachment (Strap ASTM D 1683 1 garment [Intimate Bras - key fit sizes i.e. 34B. 36C and 36DD or as requested] Seam Attachment Failure (SF): 25 lbs.
to Cup) (Modified) per basic
size Evaluate front and back strap attachment – report nature of the failure
Rupture (FR):
(Test if
present on Component Breakage (CB): 10 lbs.
garment) Points:
Seam Stretchability Gap Inc. S 1052 All Seams [Intimate Apparel] All seams: 7 lbs. or 50%

Points:
Mixed Media
Elongation
Bond Strength ASTM D2724 3Home [Bonded/Laminated Products] General Peel Bond Strength: Min. 2 lbs./inch
Launderings (width)
- Original Note: The min. bond strength should be set up at Development stage. Bond Appearance: Acceptable bond; No
- After 5HL Change
Belt Loop Attachment ASTM D 1683 3 [Knit and Intimate] Thread Belt Loops: Min. 10 lbs.
Strength Elongation
Elongation
Fasteners

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female components).
Chemical
100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.
After Ageing
Test on Request
Self-Staining: 4.5
(outerwear) only]
Bra Band Elongation Bra Band Developme [Including but not limited to bra styles with bonding on the wing part/one Determined at
elongation: nt: piece bras/ panties with bonding/flocking on the waist band. development stage on
Gap Inc. S 1069 1 garment Bonding along only the top edge or along only the bottom edge of back the fit approved
per size wing part of bras are out of testing scope] garment
Production:
3 garments
of each size
Waist Band Elongation Waist Band Developme [Including but not limited to bra styles with bonding on the wing part/one Determined at
elongation: nt: piece bras/ panties with bonding/flocking on the waist band. development stage on
Gap Inc. S 1070 1 garment Bonding along only the top edge or along only the bottom edge of back the fit approved
per size wing part of bras are out of testing scope] garment
Production:
3 garments
of each size


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Yarn Identification
Yarn Size (Sweater) ASTM D1907 10 Max. 3 colors: light, Medium, dark shades Yarn Size: ± 5.0% from claim
In Nm and tex, Report actual
Coefficient of Variation (CV)%: ≤1.5%
If no claim is provided, rate DATA
Yarn Twist ASTM D1423/ 10 (Max. 3 colors: light, medium, dark shades) DATA only
ASTM D 1422
Report the Average, Lowest/Highest and SD for single/plied yarn in
TPM/TPI and twist ratio for the reference
Mills specification (if any): Report DATA only
Single Yarn Strength ASTM D 2256 10 (Max. 3 colors: light, Medium, dark shades) DATA only
Report the Average, Lowest/Highest for strength (cN) / elongation (%)
AWI’s recommendations for wool products.

Mill’s specification for other yarn blends (if any): Report DATA only
Yarn Hairiness ASTM D 5647 1 (Except fancy yarn) DATA only

(Max 3 colors: light, Medium, dark shades)
Yarn Irregularity ASTM D 1425 M 3 (Except fancy yarn) DATA only

(Maximum 3 colors: light, Medium, dark shades)
Fiber Diameter ASTM D 2130 1 [Wool and animal hairs only] DATA only
(Max. colors: light, Medium, dark shades)
Report the Average. Lowest/Highest and SD.
Oil Content IWS TM136 3 [Products made from wool and animal hairs and their blends only] Yarn: Max. 2.0%
(Maximum 3 colors: light, Medium, dark shades)
Garment: Max. 1.5%
[Yarn]: Request Only

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Color Durability
- ISO 105-X12 – only use cylindrical shape rubbing finger Sweater (SD. GD. P. microsanded, Dry: 3.5
peached, sueded, pigment print): Wet: 2
and report the results as DATA only. Wet: 2.5
For China Market:

- Report as DATA
Print:
Self-Staining: 4
Chlorine Bleach
All Neon: 2
test, record amount of exposure time in hours as DATA. Lining/Pocketing/Silk/Intimate: 3
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
cm):
100 cm):
Self-Staining: 4
cm):


Gas Fumes 1 cycle
2 Cycles


Go to Package
Dimensional Stability to AATCC 150 1 [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Shrinkage:
Home Laundering
Cellulosic Fibers -5.0% x -3.5%
(Sweater) Shrinkage Specifications:
- Cellulosic Fibers include: Flax, Hemp, Ramie, Linen, Cotton Delicate Fibers: -5.0% x -5.0%
- Delicate Fibers include: Silk, Cashmere, Lambswool, Modal, Lyocell, Wool: -5.0% x -5.0%
Tencel, Rayon
Others: -3.5% x -3.5%
Note:
* If there are 2 appropriate requirements, select the strictest one. Growth: 2% x 2.0%
Mixed Media (Sweater with other construction)

Components:
Growth: 0%
Growth: 1% x 1%
Cleaning direction
Garment:
“one for
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guidelines
General Appearance As per care label. 1 [Sweater] Color Change - General 3.5
Before and After Home If no care label [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] - for general
Laundering finalized, use [3 & 10 Home Launderings] - for “Total Easy Care Wool” / “Machine
expected care Washable Wool” claims. Self-Staining: 4
label. 1. 3HL: Report the results as DATA only Pilling - Plain Surface Fabrics: 3.5
2. 10HL: Issue PASS/FAIL
Report all observations inclusive of Colorfastness to Actual Laundering, rate Seam Smoothness (Mixed Media 3.5
with AATCC Evaluation Test Procedures at both fabric & garment stages, only):
pilling using ASTM D3512 Photographic Standard Replicas Appearance: Satisfactory
appearance.

Mixed Media

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Report Pilling for Pile Surface of a Fleece Fabric /Sherpa (if applicable) Seam Smoothness (Mixed Media 3.5
- Report as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Use replica to evaluate the test only):
Observations:
appearance.
Torque After Home Gap Inc S 1053 1 [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Max 5.0%
Laundering
Torque After Gap Inc S 1053 1 [1 Commercial Dry Cleaning] Max 5.0%
Commercial Dry
Cleaning
Self-Staining: 4

• Metallic prints
• Foil prints
• Flocking
etc.)

to the test report.
Note:

Go to Package
Physical Durability
Pile Retention GAP INC. S1029 3 [Sweater] - Test on Request Face and Back: ≤ 1.5% Weight Loss
[Yarn Type: Including but are not limited to Chenille, Air Spun Chainette,
Roving, Eyelash Yarn, Feather Yarn]
Abrasion Resistance ASTM D 4685 3 [Sweater] Raised Surface Fabric: 3.5

(By Rotary Platform - Raised Surface fabric
Abraser)
Test Face and Back
Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512 3 [Sweater] - Request Only General: 3

(By Random Tumble)
30 minutes.
Pilling Resistance IWS 152 1 [Sweater] General: 3

100% Cashmere, 100% Merino Wool 3.5
General:
and ≥ 50% Wool Blends under
- Conduct 4.0 hours
Woollen Spun (BR or BRFS only):
(BR and BRFS only):

For 100% Cashmere, 100% Merino wool and ≥ 50% wool blends under
Woollen spun (vendor need to declare the spinning type)
- Conduct 2.0 hours.
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 Most Knits: Record all and report average. Cotton: 50 psi
Delicate Fibers (Silk/Lambs 35 psi
Wool/Cashmere/Regenerated
Method) and Special Notes:
Cellulose):
Model C only Knits: 10 - Fabrics/Lace/Seamless Garments with different zones with different
bursting properties, the specimen area must clearly be marked on a Wool and Animal Hairs: 45 psi
diagram (attached to the mill spec.) and provided to the lab to ensure Synthetic Fibers: 70 psi
Lace/Mesh: 20 psi
Snagging BS 8479 2 Each [Sweater] Snag Grade 3.5

Direction - Request only (All Brands Except Athleta):
- Test if the Mill/Vendor/Development team call out there is a snagging risk Snag Grade (Athleta): DATA only
Applicable to:
- Construction: Raised/Uneven surface (Excluding Tufted/Pile Surface
Fabrics), Float yarns

Shedding Gap Inc. S 1036 1 [Sweater] Syringe Value - Sweater / Sweater Slight: ≤1.4ml
[Request Only - Test if Mill / Vendor / Development team call out there is a Yarn
shedding risk] Fiber Loss in (g) and (%): DATA only
≥25% Wool and Animal Hairs, Recycled Polyester, Rayon, Silk

Yarn Type: including but are not limited to Chenille, Air Spun Chainette,
Roving, Eyelash Yarn, Feather Yarn.
Reporting:

Go to Package
Seam Stretchability Gap Inc. S 1052 All Seams [Sweater] All seams: 7.0 lbs. or 50.0%

≤ 5.0 oz/yd²: Min. 10 lbs.
> 5.0 oz/yd²: Min. 15.0 lbs.

Points:
Strength Elongation
Elongation

Baby (6-12M) - Size M: 20”
Fasteners
female components).
Top Stop Attachment Gap Inc. S 1047 3 Fastener Class - Class 3 or below: 15.0 lbs. for 10
Strength of Open End seconds
Zippers (Open End Fastener Class - Above Class: 17.0 lbs. for 10
Zippers only) seconds

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Chemical
100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.


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Color Durability
Colorfastness to ISO 105-X12/X16 1 Dry. Conduct both Dry & Wet Crocking Leather: Dry: 3.5
Crocking 1 Wet - Use ISO 105-X16 only if sample is too small to apply ISO 105-X12 Wet: 2.5
- ISO 105-X12 – only use cylindrical shape rubbing finger Suede. Nubuck. Splits: Dry: 3.5
Wet: 2
For China Market:

- Report as DATA
Colorfastness to Light ISO 105-B02 1 Modifications: Leather: 3

(Method 3) 1) General, Swimwear and Intimate: Fade ISO Blue Wool No. 4 to Grade 4,
Nubuck/ Suede: 2.5
Modified stop test, record amount of exposure time in hours as DATA.

Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
Colorfastness to ISO 105-E04 1 [Leather - Lining only] Color Change - General: 3.5
Perspiration Modified - If lined product, test lining only
- If unlined, test shell
cm):
Modification - Use AATCC multifiber strip (Sample size 6cm x 6cm)
Determine MF strip #1 or #10 dependent on CV fiber Multifiber Staining - 0-36 months (≤ 4
100 cm):
Self-Staining: 4

Dimensional Stability to Professional “one for [Professional Leather Cleaning] Shrinkage - Shell: -2% x -2%
Professional Leather Leather Cleaning each POM”
Growth 0%
Cleaning refer to
Appendix 1 Lining Compatible with Shell Fabric ± 1%
for the How
to Measure
Guidelines
General Appearance Professional 1 [Professional Leather Cleaning] Color Change: 4

After Professional Leather Cleaning
Self-staining: 4.5
Leather Cleaning Use ISO Grey Scale for color evaluation.
Observations:
- General assessment, before and after dry cleaning. No obvious
appearance.
- Report any foreign objects or matter and include exactly what was
discovered.

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Physical Durability
Tear Strength (Leather) ASTM D 4704 2 Each [Leather] Thickness: > 0.6mm: 2.0 x 2.0 lbs.
Direction CRE record all-report average
Thickness: 0.6 to 0.8mm: 3.0 x 3.0 lbs.
Specifications by thickness:
Water Spotting AATCC 104 1 [Aniline only] Color Change: Class 3.5
After drying the 0.15 ml water on the leather on the room temperature,
check the Color Change
Flex Resistance ASTM D 6182 1 [Pigment only] After 20000 cycles: No Cracking
20.000 cycles
Functional Seam ASTM D 1683 Gap 1 Whole Product Tops: Min. 25 lbs.
Strength Inc. S 1027
Bottoms: Min. 30 lbs.
Lining Seams (Including pocket Min. 20 lbs.
lining):
Belt Loop Attachment ASTM D 1683 3 [Leather] Thread Belt Loops: Min. 10 lbs.
Pocket Attachment Gap Inc. S 1027 1 CRE, Test one of each type of pocket Functional: Min. 20 lbs.
Strength
Decorative: Min. 15 lbs.
Resistance to ASTM D 4846 All CRE or Chatillon push gauge. 2.0 to 8.0 lbs.
Unsnapping of Snap (Perpendicular)
Fasteners
Button Attachment Gap Inc. S1023 All [Adult only] 15 lbs. for 10 sec.
Strength CRE or Chatillon + Suitable clamping device
female components).
Chemical
pH Value (Leather) ISO 4045 1 All colorways tested. 4.0-7.0
Notes: All pH testing should be a composite resulting in one reading.

4.7 TEXTILE ACCESSORIES
Go to Package
Color Durability
For China Market:

- Report as DATA
Chlorine Bleach
All Neon: 2
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
cm):
100 cm):
Self-Staining: 4
cm):


Go to Package
Report Color Change result of the base fabric with suppressor if 1) failure Appearance: Satisfactory
results)
appearance.


Physical Durability
Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3514 2 [Woven Socks] General (Including Corduroy, except 3
(By Elastomeric Pad) - Request only Melton):
- Conduct 300 cycles
- Back side test - Request only
Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512 3 [Knit Socks] - Request Only General: 3

(By Random Tumble)
30 minutes.
Pilling Resistance IWS 152 1 [Socks] General: 3

(By ICI Pilling Box) [Only containing 50% or more animal fibers (excluding silk)]
Request Only
100% Lambs Wool/Cashmere: 2 hrs. - 7.200 rev.

Others:4 hrs. - 14.400 rev.
Shedding Gap Inc. S 1036 1 [Socks] - Test on Request Fiber collected from the Pilling Box: Slight
Fiber Loss in (g) and (%): DATA only
Report Fiber Loss in (g) and (%), and describe the amount of fiber collected
from Pilling Box
- Insert a photo of the shedding fibers by using fiber diameter

measurement
- Requirement: No / Slight fibers collected from the pilling box by using
fiber diameter measurement for determining (PASS/ FAIL)

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Chemical
100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.
Fit
Fit Properties (Socks) Gap Inc. S 1043 1 pair each Ability to fit NAHM
size range Form

4.7.2 TIGHTS PROTOCOL

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Color Durability
SD, sanded, peached, emerized, Dry: 3.5
and report the results as DATA only. Infant (0-36 months): Dry: 4
Wet: 2.5
For China Market: China Market only (Kids of Baby): Wet: 3

- Report as DATA
Chlorine Bleach
Modified stop test, record amount of exposure time in hours as DATA.
All White (Except Denim): 2.5
2) For Lining/pocketing/silk: Fade ISO Blue Wool No. 3 to Grade 4, stop All Neon: 2
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
cm):
100 cm):
Self-Staining: 4
cm):


Go to Package
Dimensional Stability to Per Care Label 1 [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Shrinkage Must Fit Labelled Size
Home Laundering Gap Inc. S 1055 Reference Gap Inc Test method Gap Inc. S 1055 Range
(Tights)
Report Color Change result of the base fabric with suppressor if 1) failure Appearance: Satisfactory
results)
appearance.


Physical Durability
Abrasion Resistance (By ASTM D 3886 1 [Tights only] Abrasion Resistance: Must withstand 200
Inflated Diaphragm) Conduct 200 cycles. cycles with no holes
or adverse effects
Record all adverse effects.
Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512 1 [Knit Denim, Knit Intimate, Tights] Regular Finished Fabric and all BR, 3
(By Random Tumble) BRFS products and all Athleta
30 minutes. Report average. products:
Special Finished Fabric (Including 2.5
Sueded, Brushed, Peached Finished
Fabric, Chief Value Rayon Blends):
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 Most Knits: Record all and report average. General Fabric: 40 psi
Special Knit (Lace, Mesh, Raschel, 25 PSI
Tricot width ≥ 2.5 inches):
Method) and Special Notes:
Model C only Knits: 10 - Fabrics/Lace/Seamless Garments with different zones with different

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Chemical
100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.

4.7.3 GLOVES PROTOCOL

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Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 3 [General, including Textile Accessories] < 10.0 oz / sq. yd & Drop Needle ± 5.0% from claim
and pleated fabric
Color Durability
For China Market:

- Report as DATA
Print:
Self-Staining: 4
Chlorine Bleach
All Neon: 2
test, record amount of exposure time in hours as DATA. Fashion Gloves (Non-textile / latex 4
gloves):
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
Color Change - Fashion Gloves (Non- 4
Textile / latex gloves):
cm):
Multifiber Staining -- Fashion Gloves 3
(Non-Textile / latex gloves):
100 cm):
Self-Staining: 4
cm):


Gas Fumes 1 cycle

Go to Package
Dimensional Stability to Fabric: Fabric: [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Shrinkage: -3.5% x -3.5%
Growth: 0% x 0%
(Textile Accessories) Option 2 Direction
Garment: Garment: Lining Compatible with Shell: -1% x -1%
AATCC 150 “one for
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guideline
Growth: Woven: 1% x1%
Cleaning direction
Knit: 0%
Garment:
Lining Compatibility to Shell: -1% x -1%
“one for
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guidelines
label. pilling using ASTM D 3514 Photographic Standard Replicas (for Woven) or Multi-fiber Staining (Textile 3
ASTM D3512 Photographic Standard Replicas (for Knit). Accessories only):
Pilling - Plain Surface Fabrics: 3.5
Pilling - Others (Pile surface of a Satisfactory
Report Pilling for Pile Surface of a Fleece Fabric /Sherpa (if applicable) Fleece Fabric /Sherpa):
results)
appearance.



Go to Package
Observations:
appearance.

Go to Package
Physical Durability
- Test face side only Sueded, Brushed, Peached Finished 2.5
- Back side test - on request. Fabric (Excluding Meltons):

Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512 3 [Knitted Gloves, Scarves, Hats] Regular Finished Fabric and all BR, 3
(By Random Tumble) [Sweater Yarn Textile Accessories (Glove, Scarves, Hat)] - Request Only BRFS products and all Athleta
products:
30 minutes. Special Finished Fabric (Including 2.5
Others (Pile surface of a fleece fabric/Sherpa): Fabric, Chief Value Rayon Blends):
- Report result as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Refer to Appendix 3: Pilling Sweater Yarn Textile Accessories: 3
Standard Replica to evaluate the test results)
Others (Pile Surface of a Fleece Fabric Satisfactory
- Evaluate both Face and Back side
/Sherpa):
Pilling Resistance IWS 152 1 [Sweater Yarn Textile Accessories (Glove, Scarves, Hat) General: 3
(By ICI Pilling Box) - Conduct 4.0 hours
≥ 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 50 PSI
Shedding Gap Inc. S 1036 1 [Gloves, Scarves, Hats] Woven

Fiber collected from the Pilling Box: Slight
Knit:
- Fleece (only fibers contents that are blended or 100% Polyester with
Sweater Yarn
- ≥25% Wool and Animal Hairs, Recycled Polyester, Rayon, Silk Knit, Sweater & Sweater Yarn
- Yarn Type: including but are not limited to Chenille, Air Spun Chainette, Syringe Value - Fleece: Slight: ≤0.8ml
Roving, Eyelash Yarn, Feather Yarn
Woven: Heavy brush woven items Syringe Value - Sweater / Sweater Slight: ≤1.4ml
Yarn
Reporting - Woven: Fiber Loss in (g) and (%): DATA only
- Report the visual evaluation of the shedding fibers from pilling box.
Measurement
Reporting - Knit, Sweater Yarn

Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 3 Each [Woven, Woven Intimate] Fabric Weight ≤2 oz/sq yd: 20 x 20
Fabric Weight 2.1 – 3 oz/sq yd: 25 x 20
Requirements (Warp x Weft) – Report all readings and average, PASS/FAIL Fabric Weight 3.1 – 5 oz/sq yd: 30 x 25
based on the lowest reading Fabric Weight 5.1 – 8 oz/sq yd: 35 x 30
Fabric Weight ≥ 8.1 oz/sq yd: 45 x 40
Tear Strength Fabrics ≤ 10 oz: 2 Each [Woven, Woven Intimate] Fabric Weight: ≤3 oz/sq yd: 1.5 x 1.5
Fabric Weight: 3.1 - 5 oz/sq yd: 2x2
Fabrics > 10 oz: Fabric Weight: 5.1 - 8 oz/sq yd: 2.5 x 2
ASTM D 2261 Requirements (Warp x Weft) – Report all readings and average, PASS/FAIL Fabric Weight: ≥ 8.1oz/sq yd: 3.5 x 2.5

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Seam Strength Fabric: 1 Each [Textile Accessories] Fabric Weight ≤2 oz/sq yd:: 15 x 15
ASTM D 434 Seam Applicable for woven fabric
Garment:
ASTM D 1683 mod Labs should follow the direction of yarns and not the stitch direction, while Fabric Weight: 3.1 – 5 oz/sq yd: 25 x 20
choosing the requirements Fabric Weight: 5.1 – 8 oz/sq yd: 30 x 25
Seam Stretchability Gap Inc. S 1052 All Seams [Textile Accessories] <5% elastomeric fiber 7.0 lbs. or 35.0%
Applicable for knitted fabric Elongation
≥5% elastomeric fiber 7.0 lbs. or 50.0%
Test along each seam Elongation
Unsnapping of Snap (Perpendicular) Max
Fasteners
Button Attachment Gap Inc. S1023 All [Adult only] 15 lbs. for 10 sec.
Strength CRE or Chatillon + Suitable clamping device
female components).
Grip Actual Use 1 Shall provide good

gripping qualities.
Chemical
100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.
Fit
Fit - Fingers and Arm Standard 1 [Gloves] Shall meet label
(Gloves) Measurement claims (If applicable).
Overall Dimensions
Report actual.
Record: Hand Length/Finger Length/Cuff Width/Palm Width

4.7.4 BIBS PROTOCOL
4.7.4 BIBS PROTOCOL

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and pleated fabric
Color Durability
For China Market:

- Report as DATA
Print:
Self-Staining: 4
Chlorine Bleach
All Neon: 2
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
cm):


Gas Fumes 1 cycle
2 Cycles

4.7.4 BIBS PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Growth: 0% x 0%
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guideline
Cleaning direction
Knit: 0%
Garment:
“one for
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guidelines
results)
appearance.



4.7.4 BIBS PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Observations:
appearance.
Physical Durability
≥ 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 50 PSI
Garment:

4.7.4 BIBS PROTOCOL
Go to Package
Chemical
- All pH testing should be a composite resulting in one reading. 100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.

4.7.5 SCARVES PROTOCOL

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and pleated fabric
Color Durability
For China Market:

- Report as DATA
Print:
Self-Staining: 4
Chlorine Bleach
All Neon: 2
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
cm):
100 cm):
Self-Staining: 4
cm):


Gas Fumes 1 cycle

Go to Package
Growth: 0% x 0%
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guideline
Cleaning direction
Knit: 0%
Garment:
“one for
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guidelines
Report Pilling for Pile Surface of a Fleece Fabric /Sherpa (if applicable) Pilling - Others (Pile surface of a Satisfactory
- Report as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Use replica to evaluate the test Fleece Fabric /Sherpa):
appearance.



Go to Package
Observations:
appearance.

Go to Package
Physical Durability

products:
30 minutes. Special Finished Fabric (Including 2.5
Others (Pile surface of a fleece fabric/Sherpa): Fabric, Chief Value Rayon Blends):
- Report result as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Refer to Appendix 3: Pilling Sweater Yarn Textile Accessories: 3
Standard Replica to evaluate the test results)
Others (Pile Surface of a Fleece Fabric Satisfactory
/Sherpa):
≥ 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 50 PSI

Knit:
Sweater Yarn
- Yarn Type: including but are not limited to Chenille, Air Spun Chainette, Syringe Value - Fleece: Slight: ≤0.8ml
Roving, Eyelash Yarn, Feather Yarn
Woven: Heavy brush woven items Syringe Value - Sweater / Sweater Slight: ≤1.4ml
Yarn
Reporting - Woven: Fiber Loss in (g) and (%): DATA only
Measurement


Go to Package
Garment:
Fasteners
female components).
Chemical
100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.

4.7.6 HATS PROTOCOL
4.7.6 HATS PROTOCOL
Go to Package
and pleated fabric
Color Durability
For China Market:

- Report as DATA
Print:
Self-Staining: 4
Chlorine Bleach
All Neon: 2
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
cm):
100 cm):
Self-Staining: 4
cm):


Gas Fumes 1 cycle
2 Cycles

4.7.6 HATS PROTOCOL
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Growth: 0% x 0%
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guideline
Cleaning direction
Knit: 0%
Garment:
“one for
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guidelines
results)
appearance.



4.7.6 HATS PROTOCOL
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Observations:
appearance.

4.7.6 HATS PROTOCOL
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Physical Durability

Special Finished Fabric (Including 2.5
30 minutes. Sueded, Brushed, Peached Finished
Sweater Yarn Textile Accessories: 3
Others (Pile surface of a fleece fabric/Sherpa):
- Report result as Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Refer to Appendix 3: Pilling Others (Pile Surface of a Fleece Fabric Satisfactory
Standard Replica to evaluate the test results) /Sherpa):
≥ 4.0 oz / sq. yd (135gm/m²): 50 PSI

Knit:
Sweater Yarn
- Yarn Type: including but are not limited to Chenille, Air Spun Chainette,
Roving, Eyelash Yarn, Feather Yarn Syringe Value - Fleece: Slight: ≤0.8ml
Woven: Heavy brush woven items
Syringe Value - Sweater / Sweater Slight: ≤1.4ml
Yarn
Reporting - Woven:
Measurement


4.7.6 HATS PROTOCOL
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Garment:
Fasteners
female components).
Adjustable Strap ASTM D 1683 1 Min. 15lbs
Anchoring Strength
Chemical
100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.
Mold Count Bacteriological 1 [Straw Hats] < 1000 CFU
Analytical Method

4.7.7 TIES PROTOCOL
4.7.7 TIES PROTOCOL

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and pleated fabric
Color Durability
SD, sanded, peached, emerized, Dry: 3.5
and report the results as DATA only. Infant (0-36 months): Dry: 4
Wet: 2.5
For China Market: China Market only (Kids of Baby): Wet: 3

- Report as DATA

occurs AND 2) the base fabric is a white/pastel color (DATA only) Pilling - Raised Surface Fabrics: 2.5
appearance.



4.7.7 TIES PROTOCOL
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results)
Observations:
appearance.
Clasping Durability Actual use 3 [Clips for Clip on ties only] After 100 times cycling: Open/Close: Adequate For Use/No
Failure after repeated
100 times cycling: Open/Close use

4.7.8 TEXTILE EYE MASKS PROTOCOL

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Color Durability
Colorfastness to ISO 105-X12/X16 1 Dry. Conduct both Dry & Wet Crocking General including (including Dry: 4
Crocking 1 Wet - Use ISO 105-X16 only if sample is too small to apply ISO 105-X12 Corduroy): Wet: 3
- ISO 105-X12 – only use cylindrical shape rubbing finger China Market only (Kids of Baby): Wet: 3
For China Market:


- Report as DATA
Chlorine Bleach
Colorfastness to ISO 105-E04 1 Modification – Use AATCC Multifiber Strip (Sample size 6cm x 6cm) Color Change - General: 4
Self-Staining: 4.5
Colorfastness to Water ISO 105-E01 1 [Medium and Dark colors (anything except white or pastels)] Color Change - General: 4
Determine MF strip #1 or #10 dependent on CV fiber Self-Staining: 4.5
Note:
Color blocked styles and high contrast prints (example: light ground,
medium or dark print) must be composited and evaluated for self-staining

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Growth: 0% x 0%
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guideline
results)
appearance.


Physical Durability
Effect of Humidity GP H 1007 1 [Metal Components Only] No adverse effects
24 hours at 95% RH, 100°F
Mask to Strap Seam ASTM D 1683 3 Modification: Clamping Device Min. 3 lbs.
Strength (Modified)
Strap Elasticity Actual Use 1 Stretch the sample to three (3) times the length of the circumference, and Sample must be able
let it return to relaxed state. to stretch to three (3)
times the length of
the circumference of
its normal relaxed
state.
Trim Attachment GP H 1004 1 [Both Functional and Decorative Trim) Min. 15 lbs.
Strength

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Chemical
- All pH testing should be a composite resulting in one reading. 100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.
Fit
Fit Properties (Eye Actual Use 1 Shall be suitable for
Mask) use as per instruction

4.7.9 SWEAT BANDS PROTOCOL
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Color Durability
Colorfastness to ISO 105-X12/X16 1 Dry. Conduct both Dry & Wet Crocking General including (including Dry: 4
- ISO 105-X12 – only use cylindrical shape rubbing finger China Market only (Kids of Baby): Wet: 3
For China Market:


- Report as DATA
All Neon: 2
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
Colorfastness to ISO 105-E04 1 [Sweat Band] Color Change - General: 4

Perspiration Modified Modification – Use AATCC Multifiber Strip (Sample size 6cm x 6cm)
Multifiber Staining - General: 4
Self-Staining: 4
Test both textile and leather
Colorfastness to Water ISO 105-E01 1 [Medium and Dark colors (anything except white or pastels)] Color Change - General: 4
Multifiber Staining - General: 4
Determine MF strip #1 or #10 dependent on CV fiber Self-Staining: 4
Note:
Color blocked styles and high contrast prints (example: light ground,
medium or dark print) must be composited and evaluated for self-staining

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Dimensional Stability to Fabric: Fabric: [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Shrinkage: -1% x -1%
Growth: 0% x 0%
Garment: Garment:
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guideline
General Appearance As per care label. 1 [3 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Color Change - General 4
Report Color Change result of the base fabric with suppressor if 1) failure Pilling - Others (Pile surface of a Satisfactory
occurs AND 2) the base fabric is a white/pastel color (DATA only) Fleece Fabric /Sherpa):
results)
appearance.



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Self-Staining: 4

• Metallic prints
• Foil prints
• Flocking
etc.)

to the test report.
Note:

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Seam Stretchability Gap Inc. S 1052 All Seams [Sweat bands] All seams: 7 lbs. or 50%
Bartack, Reinforcement, Stress 15.0 lbs.
Points:
Fasteners
female components).
Strength Properties ASTM D 1683 3 [Elastic Only-At Joining Area –Circumference-Inches] - Reach Min. 3x the
[Elastic Only-At Joining (Modified) original length
Area – Circumference- Modification: Clamping Method using Instron hooks (Joining Areas= seams,
Inches] knotted joined areas, decorative securing devices, etc.) - If above not
Report each value reached, acceptable
when meet
Stretch Minimum 3x the original length. 20lbs force OR
15 inches in
Report Stretched Circumference of band when failure at joining area circumference
occurs.
Report all readings.
If band does not meet above requirements, then the following will
constitute a PASS rating.
- 20lbs force OR
- 15 inches in circumference is reached.
Strength Properties ASTM D 1683 3 [Elastic Only-At Band Area] DATA only
[Elastic Only-At Band (Modified)
Area] Modification: Clamping Method (Band= Elastic, Fabric, any Material that is
banded around hair)
- Report Stretch Distance and all readings
- Test to breakage by using minimum force of 20lbs

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Chemical
100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.
Fit
Fit Properties (Sweat Std. Measure 1 [Elastic Only] Min. 90% recovery
Band) Stretch the sample to 100%

4.8 TRIMS PROTOCOL
4.8 TRIM PROTOCOL

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4.8.1 ALL TRIMS
General Appearance Home laundering 1 General Trims (Excluding Intimate Apparel trims, and Pre-made Pad) Color Change: 3.5
Before and to Home color evaluation: [5 Home Laundering]
Self-staining: 4
Laundering (Trims) AATCC Evaluation - As per expected care
Procedures 1 and - Must test for 5 Home Laundering AND 1 DC. Appearance (Except Pre-Made Pad): Satisfactory
2 - For trims policy details, refer to SECTION 5 CARE GUIDELINES / Dry
Dry cleaning color Cleaning Policy / Trim Appearance for Pre-Made Pad: No bunching, fusing,
evaluation: ISO tearing; check fiber
grey scale Intimate Apparel Trim excluding Pre-Made Pad migration through the
evaluation [10 Home Laundering or Hand Wash] fill’s cover.
- as per expected care
Pre-Made Pad
[10 Home Laundering or Hand Wash]
- As per care
Observations
appearance.
Self-Staining: 4
Commercial Dry Cleaning finalized. Use Report all observations inclusive of Colorfastness to Actual Laundering, rate
expected care with AATCC evaluation test procedures at both fabric & garment stages, Appearance: Satisfactory
label. pilling using ASTM D 3514 Photographic Standard Replicas (for woven) or
results)
Observations:
appearance.

Self-Staining 4
Water
Color Staining 3
Self-Staining 4

4.8 TRIMS PROTOCOL
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EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES, PRINTS, PLASTIC BEADS OR SEQUINS ON APPLIQUES, TAGLESS
LABEL PRINTS
Color Durability
For Printed (P) qualities: China Market only (Adult Woven Wet: 2.5
- Evaluation should be conducted on the garment or fabric that is being Outerwear):
- Report as DATA
Colorfastness to ISO 105-C06 1 Modification – Use AATCC multifiber strip (Sample size 6cm x 6cm) Color Change - General: 4
Print:
Self-Staining: 4
Chlorine Bleach
All Neon: 2
Grey Scale Rating.
Report Color Change
cm):
100 cm):
Self-Staining: 4
cm):


Gas Fumes 1 cycle
2 Cycles
Phenolic Yellowing

4.8 TRIMS PROTOCOL
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Dimensional Stability to Fabric: Fabric : General Trims - [5 Home Launderings or Hand Washes] Maximum Change in Length -5% to 5%
(Trims) (Option 2) Direction Intimate Apparel Trims - [10 Home Launderings or Hand Washes]
Dimensional Stability to AATCC 158 Fabric: [1 Commercial Dry Cleaning] Maximum Change in Length (For -3% to 3%
Commercial Dry Cleaning 3 each Trim Only):
direction
Garment:
“one for
each POM”
refer to
Appendix 1
for the How
to Measure
Guidelines
Self-Staining: 4

• Metallic prints
• Foil prints
• Flocking
etc.)

to the test report.
Note:

4.8 TRIMS PROTOCOL
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Physical Durability
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 Most Knits: [Trim] Lace Trim: 25 PSI
Mullen Burst only 5 [Lace over 2.5” only, Lace under 2.5” is considered decorative and not
(not pneumatic Lace & necessary to test]
Method) and Special
Model C only Knits: 10 Record all and report average.
If No Burst is yielded, issue PASS
Notes:
Stretch & Recovery Gap Inc. S 1031 3 [Elastic includes any waistbands or functional trims contain elastic or Recovery: 85% min
(Trims) elastomeric content]
Modulus: +/- 25% of specs
Apply specified load (3 cycles load) to the width of elastics Elongation: +/- 10% of spec
- Width 1mm -15mm, apply for 3.3lbs
- Width 16mm - 50mm, apply for 9.35lbs
- Width >50mm, apply for 16.5lbs
If No spec claim is given, issue FAIL for Elongation and Modulus
Notes:
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 3 Each [Trim - Rigid tape or stretch elastic less than 10% or below] Non-functional Trim: 15 lbs.
Direction
Functional Trim: 40 lbs.
Small Parts Attachment Gap Inc. S1023 All [Trim - Drawstring with tippings] General: 15.0 lbs. for 10
Strength [Adult only] seconds
CRE or Chatillon.
Test all functional (Including drawstring with tipping), and non-functional
trims. including soft decorative trim items (such as bows, charms, ribbons)
Chemical
100% Sulfur: 5.5 – 6.5
not separable.

tested as follows:
white.

4.8 TRIMS PROTOCOL
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NOTES:
1. Snaps must be applied to faux garments/mock-ups with given construction simulating or same as final style and using the snap supplier’s pinch setting to attach

Fasteners
female components).
Resistance to Corrosion ASTM B 117 1 [Metal Components Only] After 24 Hours in 1% Salt Spray (Fog): No major corrosion or
(Modified) visual change.
Modification: 1% salt (fog) spray.

Attachment Strength Gap Inc. S1023 All [Adult only] 15.0 lbs. for 10
[Trims: Button, Beads] seconds
Sublimation Test Gap Inc. S 1056 3 [Dyed buttons] Color Staining: 4.5
(Dyed Button)
Color Change: 4
Moisture Content Oven Dry Method 1 [Wooden Trim only] 8-12%
Button Center Strength BS 4162 Sec. 4.0 15 [Adult Only] Light Duty - Ligne Size
mod. [Trims: Button]
<20: Min. 17 lbs.
CRE; Insert break strength. 20 to 25: Min. 20 lbs.

26 to 36: Min. 25 lbs.
Record all readings. Report highest, lowest and average. PASS/FAIL should
>37 Min. 30 lbs.
be based on lowest result.
Heavy Duty (E.g. metal & die cast) - Ligne Size

<20: Min. 30 lbs.
20 to 25: Min. 35 lbs.
26 to 36: Min. 40 lbs.
>37: Min. 45 lbs.
Mold Count Bacteriological 1 [Wooden Trims] < 1000 CFU

Analytical Method

4.8 TRIMS PROTOCOL
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NOTES:
1. Not applicable for Intimate Apparel products

Hook Pull Out Strength ASTM D 1683 1 [Trims: Buckle, Hasp, Hook & Eye] Min. 15 lbs.
(Modified)
Modification: Expanded scope to cover component
Hook and Eye Tension ASTM D 1683 3 [Trims: Hook & Eye, or Hook & Bra] Single Hook and Eye: Min. 15 lbs.
(Modified)
Single Hook and Bar: Min. 30 lbs.
Modification: Expanded scope to cover component
Hasp Strength Gap Inc. S1011 3 [Trims: Buckle, Hasp, D-Rings, Suspender Clip] Metal Buckle: Min. 40 lbs.
Plastic Buckle Min. 25 lbs.
D-Rings and Suspender Clip - Min. 75 lbs.
Pull Test (Rings and Gap Inc. S1011 10 [Adult Only] Plastic Rings and Sliders: Min. 20 lbs.
Sliders) [Trims: Rings and Sliders]
Non-Plastic Rings and Sliders: Min. 40 lbs.
CRE; Record all readings. Report highest / lowest / average
- Plastic Rings and Sliders: Pass /Fail based on the lowest result
- All other Rings and Sliders: Pass / Fail based on the average result
4.8.6 ZIPPERS
Zipper Operability ASTM D 2062 5 Open / close strength Follow the test
- Shall not be accessible without two actions to operate requirements as per
#Zipper 4000 in
SECTION 6.5
Holding Strength of ASTM D 2061 5 Follow the test
Slider lock Sections 92-100 requirements as per
#Zipper 4000 in
SECTION 6.5
Separating Unit, ASTM D 2061 5 Follow the test
Crosswise Strength Section 30.3 requirements as per
#Zipper 4000 in
SECTION 6.5
Element Slippage, ASTM D 2061 5 Follow the test
Lengthwise Section 14.3 requirements as per
#Zipper 4000 in
SECTION 6.5
Element Pull-off ASTM D 2061 10 Follow the test
Section 14.2 requirements as per
#Zipper 4000 in
SECTION 6.5
Chain Crosswise ASTM D 2061 5 Follow the test
Strength Section 14.1 requirements as per
#Zipper 4000 in
SECTION 6.5
Top Stop Holding ASTM D 2061 5 [Adult Only] Follow the test
Section 22.2 requirements as per
#Zipper 4000 in
SECTION 6.5
Bottom Stop Holding ASTM D 2061 5 [Adult Only] Follow the test
Strength, Stringer Section 22.5 requirements as per
Separation #Zipper 4000 in
SECTION 6.5
Resistance to Pull-off of ASTM D 2061 5 [Adult Only] Follow the test
Slider Pull (90°) Section 72-81 CRE; Record all readings, Report the Highest / Lowest / Average. requirements as per
#Zipper 4000 in
SECTION 6.5
Zipper Tab Twist-off Gap Inc. S 1046 5 [Adult Only] Follow the test
Strength – Zipper Tab CRE; Record all readings, Report the Highest / Lowest / Average. requirements as per
Twist method #Zipper 4000 in
SECTION 6.5

4.8 TRIMS PROTOCOL
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Effects of Extreme Heat Gap Inc. S 1044 3 fabric [Trims: Garment Size Stickers] Appearance No adverse effects or
and Humidity specimens Test on actual garment mock up when possible visual change
with stickers
for 48 hrs. Evaluate initially (As received) and After 48 hours @ 95% RH and 140°F
- Report amount of visual and non-visual adhesive residue and changes in
physical appearance of the sticker and fabric substrate before and after
rubbing with the cotton ball.
Remark: For GARMENT SIZE STICKER RESTRICTIONS, refer to SECTION 6.4

Wet: 2.5
and report the results as DATA only. China Market only (Kids of Baby): 3
China Market only (Adult Woven Wet: 2.5

For China Market:
Outerwear):

- Report as DATA
Colorfastness to ISO 105-C06 1 Modification – Use AATCC multifiber strip (Sample size 6cm x 6cm) Color Change - General: 4
Self-Staining: 4.5
Chlorine Bleach
Attachment Strength Gap Inc. S1023 Pompom & [Adult only] 15.0 lbs. for 10
Tassel [Trims: Pompoms & Tassels]: seconds
5 Pieces,
1 Pull Per CRE
Piece Test whole pompom / tassel
Colorfastness to Burnt AATCC 23 1 [Fill Material and Pre-Made Pads] Color Change: 3.5
Gas Fumes Whites and Colors
1 Cycle
Test all colors
Effect of Heat Aging Gap Inc. S 1025 1 [Trim: Foam Pads Only] Appearance No leakage
Modified
Yellowing and Color Change Grade 4
Modification – Modify the temperature for Foam pads from 148°C (300°F)
to 80°C (176°F) Tension after Ageing DATA only
Report all adverse effects.

4.8 TRIMS PROTOCOL
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Chlorine Bleach
cm):

Peel & Shear Strength of ASTM D 5169 1 Set Test at Original Peel: Min. 0.4 lbs./inch
Hook & Loop Fasteners ASTM D 5170
Test when using for leather product Shear: Min. 10.0 X 5.5
lbs./in²

Phenolic Yellowing
Hook to Eye Pull Out ASTM D1683 3 [Trims: Hook and Eye Tape] Min. 20 lbs.
Strength (Modified) [Non-Intimates]
- Hook not attached
Hook to Eye Tension ASTM D1683 3 [Trims: Hook and Eye Tape] Min. 35 lbs.
(Modified) [Non-Intimates]
Bra Hook to Eye Pull Out ASTM D 1683 3 [Trims: Hook and Eye Tape] 1 Hook/Eye Bras: Min. 25lbs
Strength (Modified) [Intimates only]
2 or more Hook/Eye Bras: Min. 35lbs
Close for test
Manufacturing Quality Visual All [Trims: Hook and Eye Tape, Functional Hooks and Claps] No sharp edges or
points
Pitting Visual All [Trims: Hook and Eye Tape, Functional Hooks and Claps] No deterioration -
Visual Rating
4.8.12 FUNCTIONAL HOOKS AND CLASPS-METAL, NYLON COATED METAL AND CLEAR NYLON
PLASTIC /RINGS AND SLIDES-METAL/NYLON
Manufacturing Quality Visual All [Trims: Hook and Eye Tape, Functional Hooks and Claps] No sharp edges or
points
Pitting Visual All [Trims: Hook and Eye Tape, Functional Hooks and Claps] No deterioration -
Visual Rating
Strength Performance Gap Inc S 1058 3 [Trims: Functional Hooks and Claps] Plastic: Min. 10 lbs.
Metal: Min. 25 lbs.

DOWN NOTES:
1. For additional China information, please refer to the most recent versions of the China Memos and TB #173.
2. All markets, with or without China destination (Testing at IDFL down and feather lab)
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Self-Staining: 4
expected care with AATCC Evaluation Test Procedures at both fabric & garment stages, Pilling - Plain Surface Fabrics: 3.5
label. pilling using ASTM D 3514 Photographic Standard Replicas (for Woven) or Pilling - Raised Surface Fabrics: 2.5
results)
appearance.


Self-Staining: 4
Cleaning expected care with AATCC evaluation test procedures at both fabric & garment stages, Pilling - Plain Surface Fabrics: 3.5
label. pilling using ASTM D 3514 Photographic Standard Replicas (for woven) or Pilling - Raised Surface Fabrics: 2.5
results)
Observations:
appearance.

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Net Fill Weight IDFB Part 17 1 Test Small, Medium and Large separately. Net Fill Weight ±5.0% from Declared
Value
Results on all three sizes should be reported separately.
Fill Power All markets except 1 All other markets Except China, As per claim
China: Inᶾ/oz:
- IDFB 10-B China Market: Refer to Section 6.6
China Inbound:
- GB/T 14272 -
2021 Appendix C
Turbidity IDFB-11 1 Mixed down from group of 3 sizes (Small, Medium, Large) Turbidity ≥ 500
Oxygen Number IDFB-7 1 Mixed down from group of 3 sizes (Small, Medium, Large) Oxygen Number ≤4.8/100m
Air Permeability ASTM D 737 1 [Down - Test all fabric components: Shell, Lining and Baffle fabric] Air Permeability ≤5 cfm max.
[Fill - Test all fabric components: Shell, Lining and Baffle fabric, and only if
fabric is submitted, do not conduct on garment mock ups]
Test Original and after 3 launderings as per care
Record all, report average
Down Proof IDFL 20-1, 20-2, 20- 1 Fabric stage: Required Down Proof ≥4
3 Down proof/Fill Garment stage: On Request
proof of Bulk
Fabric, Rotating For Athleta:
Box" - Down/Feather Ratio should be 75/25 with brand nominated baffle
- Fabric Development - must assess at Original, after3, 5, and 10 HL.
Odor Grade GB/T 10288-2016 1 [China Inbound Product Only] Odor Grade Pass/Fail by
5.7 determination
White Feather Down GB/T 10288-2016 1 [China Inbound Product Only] White Feather Down Analysis ≤1% Dark
Analysis 5.1.5
Fat and Oil Content GB/T 10288-2016 1 [China Inbound Product Only] Fat and Oil Content Comply With GB/T
5.6 14272‐2011 Table A.1
Down proof/Down and GB/T 14272-2021 1 [China Inbound Product Only] Penetration Resistance ≤ 120 particles / m²
Feather Penetration Appendix D (Entire Garment Stage: Required
Resistance Garment test)
Fill Proof International 1 Fabric stage: Required Fill Proof ≥4

Rotating Box Garment stage: On Request
IDFL 20-1, 20-2, 20-
3Downproof/Fill
proof of Bulk
Fabric, Rotating
Box"

4.10 SPECIAL CLAIM PROTOCOL
SPECIAL CLAIM NOTE:
1. Conduct the Test Properties according to the Special Claim Test(s) on the Test Request Form
2. Must meet all corresponding Test Property requirements for marketing claims
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(SPC) DELAMINATION RESISTANCE
Delamination ASTM D 1 [Laminated Fabric Only] Fabric Appearance: Satisfactory
2724/3135
Appearance after Laundering: Satisfactory
AATCC 124 Home Launderings:
- After 5
(SPC) MOISTURE MANAGEMENT CLAIMS – PERFORMANCE / ACTIVEWEAR PRODUCTS

Water Absorbency Test AATCC 79 1 [Performance / Activewear products] Average Time of Absorption: ≤ 20 seconds
Home Launderings:
- Original
- After 3
- After 20
All colors must be tested.
Report average time of absorption in seconds.
Note:
- Not to be used on its own to make any claim. Should be tested in
conjunction with vertical wicking to make any special claims.
Vertical Wicking (1) Gap Inc. S 1045 3 Each [Performance / Activewear products] Actual Height @5 minutes: DATA Only
Direction
Actual Height @30 minutes: ≥15.0 cm
Home Launderings:
- Original
- After 3
- After 20
Pass/fail based on 30 minutes.
Report individual results for all specimens in both warp and weft
directions. When one specimen fails in either one of the directions, the
overall results should be marked as “FAIL”.
Do not report the test result average.
Record actual height at 30 mins if it does not meet the maximum length of
the specimen.

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(SPC) MOISTURE MANAGEMENT CLAIMS – NON PERFORMANCE / NON ACTIVEWEAR PRODUCTS
Water Absorbency Test AATCC 79 1 [Non Performance / Non Activewear Product] Average Time of Absorption: ≤ 20 seconds
Home Launderings:
- Original
- After 3
- After 20
Note:
Vertical Wicking (1) Gap Inc. S 1045 3 Each [Non Performance / Non Activewear Product] Actual Height @5 minutes: DATA Only
Direction
Home Launderings:
- Original
- After 3
- After 20
If submitted not part of a comparison, use the specified requirements as

PASS/FAIL
If submitted as part of a comparison (finished versus unfinished) the

difference between the finished and unfinished must be the below. met
the requirements
the specimen.
Water Vapor ASTM E 96 3 [Non Performance / Non Activewear Product] ≥ 800 gr/m²/ 24 hours
Permeability (1) Procedure D
Home Launderings:
- Original
- After 3
- After 20
(SPC) QUICK DRY

Quick Dry AATCC 201 3 Home Launderings: Average Drying Time: DATA Only
- Original
Average Drying Rate: ≥ 1mL/hour
- After 3
- After 20
Report the ‘Average Drying Time’ and ‘Average Drying Rate
Notes
- Do not continue testing if original / after 3HL fails
(SPC) BREATHABILITY
Water Vapor ASTM E 96 3 Home Launderings: ≥ 800 gr/m²/ 24 hours
Permeability (1) Procedure D - Original
- After 3
- After 20
Water Vapor ASTM E 96 3 [Athleta Sleepwear only] ≥ 3500g/m²/24h

Permeability (2) Procedure E Home Launderings:
- Original
- After 3
- After 20
Breathability Levels for reference:

Good ≥ 3500 - 5999g/m2/24h
Very Good ≥ 6000 7999g/m2/24h
Excellent ≥ 8000g/m2/24h

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(SPC) ABSORBENCY FOR BATHROBES CLAIM
Absorbency ASTM D 4772 Total 6 [Textiles used for Bathrobes Only] Absorbency: DATA Only
-3 Face
- 3 Back
(SPC) WATER REPELLENCY CLAIM

Spray Test ISO 4920 Modified 1 All Brands except Athleta Performance / Train / Lifestyle All Brands (Except Athleta Performance /Train / Lifestyle)
Home Launderings:
Original: ISO 4
- Original
- After 5 After 5 Washes: ISO 3
- [After 20]* After 20 Washed: ISO 3
*OW only: After 20 HL is only tested when specifically requested on TRF.
After 3 Dry Clean: ISO 2
Request when item is a raincoat or main selling feature is rainwear or an
elevated performance rain product.]
Athleta – Performance/Train
Athleta Performance / Train / Lifestyle Original: ISO 4
Home Launderings:
After 5 Washes: ISO 3
- Original
- After 5 After 10 Washed: DATA Only
- After 10 After 20 Washed: ISO 3
- After 20
After 3 Dry Clean: ISO 2
All Brands
Athleta – Lifestyle
Dry-Clean (if applicable, as per care instructions):
- After 3 Original: ISO 4
After 5 Washes: ISO 3
Modification - Can report in half steps if needed.
After 10 Washed: DATA Only
Record all-Report Average After 3 Dry Clean: ISO 2
Water Drop Gap Inc S 1063 3 [Knits only] Original: 5.0

[Not applicable to sweaters and items intended for outerwear. Use Spray
After 5 Washes: 4.0
Test only for outerwear.]
After 20 Washed: 4.0
Home Launderings: After 3 Dry Clean: 4.0
- Original
- After 5
- After 20

- Original
- After 3
Record all-Report Average
(SPC) WATER RESISTANCE CLAIM

Rain Test AATCC 35 1 For Rain Duty - Test as received. All Brands except Athleta
- Rain Duty
For Rain Duty + Hang Tag Special Claims - Test as: Original: <1 Gram
Home Launderings:
- Original All Brands except Athleta
- After 5 - Rain Duty + Hang Tag Special Claims
- After 20 (As per request) Original: <1 Gram
After 5 Washes: <1 Gram
- Original
- After 3 After 20 Washed: <1 Gram
After 3 Dry Clean: <1 Gram
Impact Penetration 2ft. for 2 minutes record all-report average; All colors
must be tested.
Athleta - Performance/Train and Lifestyle
For Rain Duty
After 20 HL:
Original: <1 Gram
- is only tested when specifically requested on TRF.
- Request when item is a raincoat or main selling feature is rainwear or an
Athleta - Performance/Train:
elevated performance rain product.]
For Rain Duty + Hang Tag Special Claims
Original: <1 Gram
After 20 Washed: <1 Gram
Athleta - Lifestyle:
For Rain Duty + Hang Tag Special Claims –
Original: <1 Gram

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(SPC) WATER PROOF CLAIM
Hydrostatic Pressure AATCC 127 – 1 Home Launderings: Fabric: ≥5000mm
Test Option 2 - Original
Seam: 3 PSI for 2 mins (Face
- After 5
side only)
- After 10
Note for garment, you must test sealed seams and they must meet the
requirement as well for garments.
Garment - Report the point of failure
(SPC) STAIN REPELLENT CLAIM

Oil Repellency AATCC 118 3 Home Launderings: Original: Grade 6
- Original
Washed (3 & 20 cycles): Grade 4
- After 3
- After 20 Dry Clean (3 cycles): Grade 4
Dry-Clean:
- Original
- After 3
Per test method, must be performed 2x to constitute 1 reading.
Report all data points collected.
Notes:
- Do not continue testing if original/after 3HL fails
Aqueous Liquid AATCC 193 3 Home Launderings: Original: Grade 6

Repellency - Original
Washed (3 & 20 cycles): Grade 4
- After 3
- After 20 Dry Clean (3 cycles): Grade 4
Dry-Clean:
- Original
- After 3
Per test method, must be performed 2x to constitute 1 reading.
Report all data points collected.
Notes:
- Do not continue testing if original/after 3HL fails
(SPC) STAIN RELEASE (STAY WHITE OR STAIN CLEAN)

Soil Release AATCC 130 1 Home Launderings: Grade 4
(Modified) - Original
- After 5
- After 10
- After 20
Modification: Stain substance to be defined at development and specified

on the test request form.
Notes
- Do not continue testing if original / after 5HL / 10HL fails
- If a stain occurs, take an exhibit photo for test reporting

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(SPC) WRINKLE RESISTANT AND WRINKLE FREE CLAIMS
Wrinkle Free/Non Iron AATCC 143/ASTM 1 [Woven only] Bottoms - Fabric: Grade 3.5
D 4231
Bottoms - Surface Appearance: Grade 3.5
photographic Home Launderings:
standard for Shirt - After 1 Bottoms - Side seam, Inseam, Pocket, Grade 3.5
- After 5 Center Front Crease:
Dry-Clean: Shirts - Fabric: Grade 3.5

- After 3 Shirts - Surface Appearance: Grade 3.5
Test based on intended care for either HL or DC. Shirts - Fabric: Grade 3.5
Shirts - Side Seam (taped): Grade 3.5
Shirts - Collar, Cuff, Placket, Armhole: Grade 3.5
Wrinkle resistance/easy AATCC 143/ASTM 1 [Woven only] Bottoms - Fabric: Grade 3

care D 4231
Bottoms - Surface Appearance: Grade 3
photographic Home Launderings:
standard for Shirt - After 1 Bottoms - Side seam, Inseam, Pocket, Grade 3
- After 5 Center Front Crease:
Shirts - Fabric: Grade 3
Dry-Clean:
- After 3
Shirts - Surface Appearance: Grade 3
Test based on intended care for either HL or DC. Shirts - Side Seam (taped): Grade 3
Shirts - Collar, Cuff, Placket, Armhole: Grade 3
Stoll flex abrasion ASTM D 3885 2 Each [Woven Bottoms Only] Warp x Fill: 250 x 150 cycles
Direction - Stoll 1.0 lb.
- Top load weight: 4 lbs. (Length and width)
(SPC) WRINKLE RECOVERY TESTING

Wrinkle recovery AATCC 128 1 [Woven only] Original: Grade 4
testing Related to Wear or Packability
5 washes (or 3DC): Grade 3.5
Home Launderings:
- Original
- After 5
Dry-Clean:
- After 3
Test may not be able to be conducted in garment form if there are seams
<6” apart. If this is the case, Garment stage testing is not required.
PI can evaluate to make sure no changes were done between fabric and
garment to make this claim.
Stoll flex abrasion ASTM D 3885 2 Each [Woven Bottoms Only] Warp x Fill: 250 x 150 cycles
Direction Related to Wear or Packability
- Stoll 1.0 lb.

- Top load weight: 4 lbs. (Length and width)
(SPC) WIND RESISTANCE CLAIM

Air Permeability of ASTM D-737 1 Home Launderings: ≤ 10 cfm
Textile Fabrics - Original
- After 3
- After 20
(For Athleta only)

Home Launderings:
- Original
- After 5
- After 10
Frazier Air Permeability Tester

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(SPC) WIND PROOF CLAIM
Air Permeability of ASTM D-737 1 [For Athleta only] ≤1 cfm
Textile Fabrics
Home Launderings:
- Original
- After 5
- After 10
Frazier Air Permeability Tester
(SPC) THERMAL TRANSMITTANCE

Thermal Transmittance ASTM D 1518 3 Home Launderings Fabric (General): ≥ 0.6 CLO
of Textile Materials Option 1 - Original
Fabric (Polar Fleece): ≥ 0.7 CLO
- After 3
- After 20 Garment: 3 CLO Outerwear
Dry Cleaning:
- Original
- After 3
(SPC) OUTERWEAR (OW) THERMAL RATINGS

Warm (OW) ASTM D 1518 3 [Athleta Brand Outerwear only] Low Activity*: ≥1 to ˂2 CLO
Option 1
High Activity**: ≥0.5 to ˂1.5 CLO
Home Launderings
Warmer (OW) - Original Low Activity*: ≥2 to ˂3 CLO
- After 5 High Activity**: ≥1.5 to ˂2.5 CLO
- After 20
Warmest (OW) Low Activity*: ≥ 3 CLO
Dry Cleaning: High Activity**: ≥ 2.5 CLO
- Original
- After 3
Test Directions:
- Development: DATA only
- Production: PASS/FAIL
For Vest and Hybrid Styles:

- Warmth rating are to be categorized according to the CORE WARMTH Clo
value.
- Any warmth claims to specify “CORE WARMTH” only
REMARK:
- For Vest & Hybrid styles, labs need to perform this test on the
warmest/thickest part of Garment/ Garment Panel
Reminder to the test submitter:

- The test submitter must state the test category (Warm, Warmer,
Warmest) and Activity Level (Low/High) in the Online Test Request Form
*Low Activity – is defined as slow walking

**High Activity – is defined as walking very fast, more intense activities
(SPC) HYGROSCOPIC HEAT GENERATION

Hygroscopic Heat Gap Inc. S 1050 3 Home Launderings ≥2°C temperature rise
Generation - Original
- After 3
- After 20
Dry Cleaning:
- Original
- After 3

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(SPC) COMPRESSION CLAIMS ONLY
Stretch and Recovery Gap Inc. S 1033 3 [Woven & Denim] Woven
(Compression) Modification – Use 5 lbs. loading
Modulus@25%: ≥ 1.0 lbs.
[Knit] Modulus@40%: ≥1.2 lbs.

Follow as the method - Use 10 lbs loading Max Elongation - Regular Stretch +/- 4.0 % mill spec
(Regular is < 35% Max Elongation: variation
Report Elongation, Recovery, Growth, and Modulus at all loadings. High Stretch (High Stretch is ≥35% +/- 5.0 % mill spec
Max Elongation): variation
Specifications: Growth: DATA Only
- PASS/FAIL criteria is based on recovery and modulus as well as modulus
and max elongation variation from mill claim. Recovery: DATA Only
- If there is no mill claim, lab must issue a FAIL.
Denim
Modulus ≥ 1.0 lbs.
- At Max Elongation (which can’t
exceed 25%):
Max Elongation: ≤25% max elongation
Max Elongation Mill Spec Variation: +/- 10% mill claim
Growth: DATA Only
Recovery: DATA Only
Knits
Modulus (lbf @20% & 60%): DATA Only
Modulus (lbf @40%): Min. 1.6 lbs.
Modulus (lbf @40%): +/- 20% of mill claim
Max Elongation: +/- 10% mill claim
Growth: DATA Only
(SPC) “KEEPS YOU COOL” OR LIKE CLAIMED PRODUCTS ONLY

Water Absorbency Test AATCC 79 1 Home Launderings: Average Time of Absorption: ≤ 20 seconds
- Original
- After 3
- After 20
Note:
Vertical Wicking (1) Gap Inc. S 1045 3 Each Home Launderings: Actual Height @5 minutes: DATA Only
Direction - Original
- After 3
- After 20
overall results should be marked as “fail”.

the specimen.

- After 3
- After 20

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(SPC) GLOW IN THE DARK
Glow in the Dark Visual 1 Home Launderings: Glows in the dark
- Original original state and
- After 10 after 10 HL
Launder as per Care
Evaluate visually
(SPC) ABRASION RESISTANT

Abrasion Resistance ISO 12947-2 2 [High Performance Knits Only] High Performance Knits: Must withstand
(By Martindale) - Conduct test to 25000 cycles 25,000 cycles with no
fabric rupture
[Denim Only]
Denim: Must withstand
- Conduct test to 50000 cycles
50,000 cycles with no
fabric rupture
(SPC) ABRASION CLAIMS

Abrasion Resistance ISO 12947-2 3 [Knits Only] DATA
(By Modified (Modified)
Martindale) Home Launderings:
- Original
- After 20
(As per care)
Modification: Abradant used 3MTM 268XA Trizact Hookit Film – Grade

A35MIC – 127.0mm
Submitted as part of a comparison at development (i.e. finished versus

unfinished, regular versus improved abrasion fabrics) the difference shall
be used to determine appropriate marketing claim
(SPC) ANTISTATIC CLAIMS

Antistatic AATCC 76 1 [Items containing antistatic finish or items with static issues such as 100% 1x10⁶ to 1x10⁹
polyester or 100% nylon]
Home Launderings:
- Original
- After 3
- After 5
(As per care)
Test conducted at: 24°C and 20% RH.
(SPC) COLOR STAY REQUIREMENTS (INCLUSIVE OF STAY BLACK) – RELATED TO MAINTAINING ITS COLOR
General Appearance As per care label. 1 Home Launderings: Color Change (After 3HL): 4.5
Before and After If no care label - After 3
Color Change (After 10HL): 4.5
Laundering finalized, use - After 10
expected care - After 20 Color Change (After 20HL): 4
label. Appearance: Satisfactory
Color: AATCC Report all observations; CF to actual laundering, rate with AATCC
Evaluation evaluation test procedures at both Fabric & Garment stages
Procedures 1 and
2 Observations:
performance/appearance, including but not limited to Frosting. Fail for
appearance.
- Report any foreign objects or matter, including exactly what was
discovered.
List all observations.
Note: All related color fastness tests must pass

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(SPC) INSTANT COOL FEELING – TOUCH FEELING OF COOLNESS
Instant Cool Feeling Qmax test – KES- 3 Home Launderings: Knit: ≥ 0.130 (W/cm2)
F7 - Original
Woven: ≥0.170 (W/cm2)
- After 3
- After 20
Notes
- Do not continue testing if original / after 3HL fail
- Must have finish, should not be used on anything that is not engineered
as instant cool feeling fabric
(SPC) THERMAL RETENTION AND MOISTURE CONTROL – LAYER FOR WARMTH, KEEPS YOU COOL, DRY AND COMFORTABLE
Quick Dry AATCC 201 3 Home Launderings: Average Drying Time: DATA Only
- Original
Average Drying Rate: ≥ 1mL/hour
- After 3
- After 20
Report the ‘Average Drying Time’ and ‘Average Drying Rate
Notes
- Do not continue testing if original / after 3HL fails
Vertical Wicking (1) Gap Inc. S 1045 3 Each Home Launderings: Actual Height @5 minutes: DATA Only
Direction - Original
- After 3
- After 20
overall results should be marked as “FAIL".
the specimen.

- After 3
- After 20
Thermal Transmittance ASTM D 1518 3 Home Launderings: ≥ 0.2 CLO

of Textile Materials Option 1 - Original
- After 3
- After 20
Dry Cleaning:
- Original
- After 3
(SPC) BUTTON BREAKAGE RESISTANCE

Impact Resistance of ASTM D 5171 15 [Plastic buttons] No Breaking, Cracking
Plastic Sew-Through Must also pass Button Center Strength Test or Chipping
Buttons
Mass Drop Height: 67mm
(SPC) 37.5®TECHNOLOGY
37.5® Technology Cocona lab 1 37.5® Technology Testing can only be conducted in Cocona lab in USA Refer to Appendix I -
method The Process Map of
Helps keep your body at the ideal temperature 37.5® Technology
(SPC) SWEAT HIDING CLAIM

Sweat Hiding Test Gap Inc. S1035 3 Water Drop Method Color Change: PASS/FAIL based on
(Can only be Fabric/Garment
conducted in ITS Home Launderings: Specification
HK LAB) - Original
- After 5
- After 10
- After 20
Report the color change rating according to the standard replica

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(SPC) HEIQ FRESH FFL TESTING
HeiQ Fresh FFL Testing HeiQ Method 1 Note: No claims to any antimicrobial effects are allowed Refer to Appendix I -
The Process Map of
HeiQ Fresh FFL Testing can only be conducted in HeiQ Schlieren lab in HeiQ Fresh FFL
Switzerland Testing
Bio-based odor control keeps clothes fresher, longer
(SPC) COOLMAX® (CORE, ALL SEASON)

Water Absorbency Test AATCC 79 1 [CORE & ALL SEASON] Average Time of Absorption ≤ 30 seconds
[Knit, Woven & Denim only] (Woven & Denim):
Average Time of Absorption ≤ 20 seconds
Woven & Knit: Test As received (Knit):
Denim only - Test after 3 HL (3 washes 1 dry prepared fabric)
Fabric: Test one colorway

Garment: On Request
See Footnote SP2
Vertical Wicking (1) Gap Inc. S 1045 3 each [CORE & ALL SEASON] Actual Height @30 minutes: ≥7.6cm (3 inches)
direction [Applicable to all categories excluding Denim]
for Woven
Test as received
3 in the
Wale Fabric: Test one colorway
(Machine Garment: On Request
Direction)
for Knit Pass/fail based on 30 minutes.
the specimen.
See Footnote SP2
Air Permeability of ASTM D-737 1 [CORE & ALL SEASON] Knit (no spandex): ≥100 cfm
Textile Fabrics [Knit, Woven only]
Knit (with spandex): ≥60 cfm
Test as Received Woven: ≥5 cfm

Garment: On Request
Frazier Air Permeability tester
See Footnote SP2
Thermal Transmittance ASTM D 1518 3 [ALL SEASON ONLY] 0.1 to 0.3 CLO
of Textile Materials (1) Option 1 [Applicable to all categories.]
Woven & Knit: Test as received

Denim only - Test after 3 HL (3 washes 1 dry prepared fabric)

Garment: On Request
See Footnote SP2
Footnote SP 2: Core: Stay Cool and Dry

Fabric made with COOLMAX® CORE technology transports moisture away from the body to keep the wearer cool and dry, helping to optimize performance.
All Season:
Stay cool and dry, year-round comfort Engineered for everyday comfort and performance. COOLMAX® ALL SEASON technology transports moisture away from the body to
keep the wearer cool and dry on hot days, while the fiber structure provides insulation on colder days, helping to optimize performance.
Legal line (must accompany the COOLMAX® brand name in all communications, can be small and indiscreet, but it must run along one margin): COOLMAX® is a trademark of
The LYCRA Company.
All claims or logo or trademark used in related promotion materials must be sent to the LYCRA company for review and record. Please liaison with Chammy Chan
(Chammy.M.Chan@lycra.com).

Go to Package
(SPC) TRUTEMP 365
Water Vapor ASTM E 96 3 [Denim & Woven Only] ≥ 800 gr/m²/ 24 hours
Permeability (1) Procedure D
Home Launderings:
- Original
- After 3
- After 20
Vertical Wicking (2) AATCC 197 Option 3 Each [Denim & Woven Only] Chief Cotton@30minutes: ≥12 cm after 30
B Direction minutes
for Woven Fabric - Woven – As Received Synthetic fabirc@30 minutes: ≥15 cm after 30
and woven Rigid Denim - Test after 3 HL prepared (3 washes 1 dry) minutes
denims Garment - As received
overall results should be marked as “FAIL".
Do not report the test result average
the specimen
Thermal Transmittance ASTM F1868 part 3 [Denim & Woven Only] Report (IT) Values: Min. 0.5 CLO on
of Textile Materials (2) A cotton rich fabric
Fabric - Woven – Test as Received
Rigid Denim - Test after 3 HL prepared (3 washes 1 dry)
Garment - As received
(vendor must submit leg mock-up panels prepared under same wash as
target garment)
Report (IT) values in CLO
Fabric and Garment sample size: Min. 3 pcs of 50 cm X 50 cm each

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GAP INC INTERNAL USE ONLY, LABS DO NOT VERIFY
(SPC) MARKETING AND REQUIREMENTS FOR KNIT SHRINKAGE CLAIMS
Unshrinkable or shrink resistant Not advisable to use this term as it would require considerable R&D and <1% shrinkage
control on both the side of the vendor and mill. As this means no shrink or
almost no shrinkage.
<1% shrinkage = essentially does not shrink = customer will not notice this
shrinkage.
Minimal shrinkage This is regardless of content and construction - all would have to meet this <3.5% shrinkage
Pre-shrunk For pre-shrunk, we take the shrink out before it gets to the customer. This <3.5% shrinkage
should have minimal shrinkage so the customer doesn't experience any
residual shrinkage.
This is regardless of content and construction - all would have to meet this.
Shrinkage control This is regardless of content and construction - all would have to meet this. <3.5% shrinkage
(SPC) MARKETING AND REQUIREMENTS FOR WOVEN SHRINKAGE CLAIMS

Unshrinkable or shrink resistant Not advisable to use this term as it would require considerable R&D and <1% shrinkage
control on both the side of the vendor and mill. As this means no shrink or
almost no shrinkage.
<1% shrinkage = essentially does not shrink = customer will not notice this
shrinkage.
Minimal shrinkage This is regardless of content and construction - all would have to meet this. <2% shrinkage
Pre-shrunk For pre-shrunk, we take the shrink out before it gets to the customer. This <2% shrinkage
should have minimal shrinkage so the customer doesn't experience any
residual shrinkage.
This is regardless of content and construction - all would have to meet this.
Shrinkage control This is regardless of content and construction - all would have to meet this. <2% shrinkage
(SPC) MARKETING AND REQUIREMENTS FOR ANTI PILL OR NO PILLING

Anti-Pill or no pilling Wovens: ASTM D [Woven & Knit only] Grade 4.5
3514 Wovens: ASTM D 3514 – 300 cycles
Knits: ASTM D 3512 – 30 minutes
Knits: ASTM D
3512 Must utilize actual pilling test listed below, not appearance after laundering
pilling evaluation, to substantiate this claim.

SECTION 5 CARE GUIDELINES
5.1 EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTION SOP – HOW LABS SHOULD APPLY EXPECTED CARE VERSUS SUBMITTED CARE
Submitted Care Provided/not Development Test Fabric Production Test Garment Production
Trim Dry-Clean
Provided (Fabric & Garment) (FPT) Test (GPT)
When trim submitted solely:

Full Package Test: Benchmark submitted care versus (Trim) expected
Benchmark submitted care versus care.
expected care. If submitted care is harsher than expected care,
Benchmark submitted
submitted care will be used; if it is not, use (Trim)
care versus expected
If the submitted care is harsher expected care.
care.
than the expected care, use the
submitted care; if it is not, use When Trim submitted with fabric:
If care is provided by TRF If the submitted care Use the submitted
expected care. Benchmark submitted care versus (FPT) expected
submitter is harsher than the care
care.
expected care, use
Additional Color Test submitted If trim supplier knows the exact care of the fabric,
the submitted care; if
solely: they should put this in the TRF as the submitted care
it is not, use expected
Use the submitted care and must for the trim item. However, it should be noted, that Should always
care. follow the dry
provide full package test report it will follow the FPT procedure (see left).
traceability information in TRF If submitted care is harsher than expected care, cleaning Policy
during test submission submitted care will be used; if it is not, use (FPT)
expected care.
Full Package Test:

Use expected care
Should always be
Additional Color Test: provided at this
If care is not provided Use expected care Use expected care
Should always be provided at this point but if not,
point but if not, follow flag to GIS PI.
recommended care of Fabric Full
Package Test report
Note 1: In case of flexibility or override for above-mentioned care instructions, validation correspondences with justifications from Category Tech/ PI must be provided.
Note 2: For the expected care for different categories and products, refer to SECTION 5.6
5.2 LABORATORY CARE DEVELOPMENT – LABORATORY RESPONSIBILITY

Develop an appropriate care instruction based on lab testing results.
Lab responsibility:
- The lab must use only terms from Gap Inc’s Care Terms and ID section found on supporting documents on GSL – General Labelling Guidelines.
Path: GSL> Standards & Testing>Softlines Manual, Testing Protocols, and Product Testing Specifications>Softlines Labelling Manual Chapter.
- The lab cannot add additional wording or deviate at all from the wording that is approved by Gap Inc. standardized wording in our Care Terms and ID.
5.3 MODIFICATIONS FOR WASHING AND DRYING INSTRUCTIONS

5.3.1 MACHINE WASH
• Follow washing and drying instructions as outlined in AATCC 150 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering
• Use 40 (+/- 1.0) grams of Tide® Original (HE) Powder Laundry Detergent instead of 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent
5.3.2 HAND WASH

• Refer to AATCC Technical Supplement 006 – Procedure for Hand Laundering
• Use 4.5 grams of Tide® Original (HE) Powder Laundry Detergent instead of 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent
• When mild detergent is specified, use 4.5 grams of Extra Delicate or Standard Woolite®
5.3.3 DAMP WIPE CLEAN

• Refer to Gap inc. Test Method S-1037 – Damp Wipe Clean
• Use Tide® Original (HE) Powder Laundry or Extra Delicate or Standard Woolite® detergent
5.3.4 RESHAPE INSTRUCTION

• Stretch each point gently once. Always start with the length and continue with the width. (*Three points stretch for fabric)

5.3.5 IRONING INSTRUCTION
• Use one back and forth motion (to and fro) for 3 cycles on the same area and around 2 seconds for 1 cycle. Do not exert pressure onto the iron and avoid
any scorching.
(The weight of the iron should be 1.0kg to 1.5kg)
a) GENERAL APPEARANCE TEST

If the submitted care includes an ironing instruction, labs must follow the below steps:
• For failures before ironing, Lab must iron the tested sample to check if the appearance is acceptable after ironing.
• For passed results before ironing, the Lab will iron the tested sample for ironing care verification.
b) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TEST

• If the smoothness appearance is less than or equal to Grade 3 in AATCC 124 Three-Dimensional Smoothness Appearance Replicas, lab will apply ironing to
remove the wrinkle before measuring the after-washed samples.
5.4 ADDITIONAL INFORMATION FOR GAP INC GIS AND BRAND – CARE INSTRUCTION TERM SOP
• After an appropriate care instruction is determined by testing, use the care terms and ID to apply appropriate, standardized language and refer to GSL –
General Labelling Guidelines for appropriate care symbols for all markets the product will be sold in.
• Escalation process - deviating from laboratory recommended care instructions:
What happens if the recommended care instructions from the laboratory testing are not what the brand wants to use?
(i) GIS PI works with the brand to develop and alternative, appropriate care label
(ii) This alternative care instruction must be signed off on by a brand Manager or higher
5.5 DRY CLEANING POLICY

5.5.1 EVERYTHING EXCEPT TRIMS
• Lab only tests for Machine wash and DC if it has been requested on the TRF (test request form specifically additionally for DC) otherwise, they will only test
for one or the other. The tested care will be based on expected care (which is likely, please note that any additional testing is at our charge. If we submit a
product that is machine wash cold, tumble dry low; do not dry clean, the lab will test for machine wash cold and that is it. We do not test to prove it is not
dry cleanable.
• Conversely, we would not test for DC if the submitted is machine wash cold, tumble dry low or dry clean. We assume everything can be DC and that DC is
also an alternative care, unless the mill/vendor specifies otherwise. So, by default, everything can be DC. DC is ok to put on everything (we assume as
default).
• If we need to have the lab specifically also test for dry cleaning, we must state this on the TRF so that the lab conducts, otherwise only one care will be
conducted. Again, this will be at an extra charge (the dry cleaning will be added onto the package price).
*Does not include trims, see below for trims.
5.5. 2 TRIMS
• Standard practice is slightly different for trims. As per the Performance SLM, trims should be tested for 5 home launderings AND 1 dry clean automatically
and always when a trim is submitted. This is standard practice and included in the cost. Additional charge does not apply for the one dry clean.
• Exception: “Do Not Dry Clean” is marked in submitted care instruction for bulk testing.

5.6 CATEGORY EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS
NOTE:
1. All products must first select the Expected Care from "All Categories" if applicable. Then, refer to the corresponding categories.
2. Excluding "All Categories", if there are 2 available selections in the category, select the harsher one, e.g. 50% cotton 50% wool, refer to the CV
Cotton expected care.
3. “Mild detergent” is Woolite and should be used for testing when “mild detergent” is specified in care.
All Categories
Fiber Content / End Use Expected Care Instructions
Sleep/Lounge wear (Adults only) MWC, TDL
Sleep/Lounge Wear (All Gap Brand) MWC, TDL
For Kids and Baby Products regardless of fiber content/fabric type MWC, TDL
- (For Gap Brand only)
- (Except Metallic Print/Foil Print/Glitter Print/Flocking)
Metallic Print/Foil Print/Glitter Print/Flocking Wash and Dry Inside Out, MWC, GC, TDL
Woven
100% Cotton, CV Cotton, with or without elastomeric MWC, TDL
100% synthetic, CV synthetic, with or without elastomeric MWC, TDL
CV Regenerated Cellulose MWC, GC, TDL, or LD
Flat Rayon MWC, GC, LD
Crinkle Rayon/Texture Rayon MWC, GC, LD (Warm Iron, Reshape While Damp)
100% Linen, CV Linen MWC, TDL
100% Silk, CV Silk, HWC, LD
100% Wool, CV Wool HWC, LD
Worsted Wool DC only
Swimwear MWC, TDL or LD
Terry (All contents) MWW, TDL
Velvet/Corduroy, Gauze and Voile MWC, GC, TDL or LD
Wrinkle Resistant/Easy Care, Wrinkle Free/Non-iron garments MWW, TDM
Laminated or Coated fabric MWC, TDL, do not dry clean
Denim
Stone Washed MWC, TDM
Antique Wash (Ring/Ring), (Ring/ OE) MWC, TDM
Bleached White Denim MWC, TDM
Black, Colored, Over-Dyed MWC, TDM or MWC, TDL, Wash with like colors, Wash before wearing
Black, Rinsed MWC, TDM or TDL, Wash with like colors, Wash before wearing
Rinsed (OE/OE, Ring/OE, Ring/Ring) MWC, TDM, Wash with like colors, Wash before wearing
Coated Fabric MWC, TDL or LD
“Non Wash” Garment MWC, TDM
Knit
100% Cotton, CV Cotton MWC, TDL
Synthetic Fleece MWC, TDL, Do not Iron
Synthetic (with & without Spandex) MWC, TDL, GC
100% Linen, CV Linen HWC, reshape, DF; or DC
100% Wool, CV wool HWC, reshape and DF; or DC
Warp Knit with Spandex (Raschel, Tricot, Lace, Mesh) MWC, TDL, GC or HWC, LD or DF or DC
100% Regenerated Cellulose, and CV Regenerated Cellulose MWC, LD, GC or HWC, LD or HWC, DF or DC
(with & without Spandex, including Rayon, Modal and Lyocell)
100% Rayon Jersey HWC, LD or DF, or DC
Swimwear MWC, LD or MWC, TDL

Intimate
Fabric development (All contents) MWW, TDL
Garment development – Fit For Purpose Test MWW, TDL
General Panties and Bras (all contents) MWC, TDL
Bulk Garment - Non-wired/ Wired Bras HWC, LD
Fit For Purpose Development Test Only - Non-wired/ Wired Bras MWW, TDL
Sweater
100% Cotton, CV Cotton MWC, GC, TDL or DF
100% synthetic, CV synthetic MWC, GC, DF; or HW, reshape and DF; or DC
Delicate Fibers (silk / lambs' wool / cashmere / rayon) HWC, Reshape and DF; or DC
Wool and animal hairs HWC, reshape and DF; or DC
“Total Easy Care Wool” Use Mild Detergent, Wash Inside Out, Machine Wash Cold, Tumble Dry
Low
“Machine Washable Wool” Wash in Mesh Bag, Use Mild Detergent, Wash Inside Out, Wash
Separately, Machine Wash Cold, Gentle Cycle, Only Non-Chlorine Bleach
When Needed, Reshape and Dry Flat, Cool Iron,
Or Dry Clean
Leather
Leather Professional Leather Clean Only
Textile Accessories
Socks - General MWW, TDM
Socks - Cashmere MWC, TDL
Tights MWW, TDM or MWC, TDL or HWC, LD
Gloves, Bib, Scarves, Hat, Tie MWC, GC, TDL; or HWC, LD; or DC only
Textile Eye Mask (follow as per care)
Sweatband MWW, TDL
Trims
Trims MWW, TDM
ABBREVIATION MEANING
MWW Machine Wash Warm
MWC Machine Wash Cold
HWC Hand Wash Cold
GC Gentle Cycle
TDM Tumble Dry Medium
TDL Tumble Dry Low
LD Line Dry
DF Dry Flat
DC Dry Clean

SECTION 6 SUPPLEMENTARY
This section lists out some complicated test requirements in details, in additional with photos, for lab to follow.
6.1 APPEARANCE EVALUATION FOR BRA

6.1.1 BRA PARAMETER FOR APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING
Below is the evaluation parameter on after laundering for bra
• No adverse change in fabric/lining/elastic appearance and hand-feel
• No wire protrusion/under-wire poke through
• No rusting, chipping, pitting or corrosion (metal parts)
• Operability of all the hardware attached
• Color Change: Min 4 (AATCC EP-1), No Self-Staining
• Pilling: Min Grade 4
• No fraying or unravelling
• No obvious strength failures of straps
• No cracking or deterioration of printed label
• No glue marks / stickiness
• No deterioration of fragile trim / sequins / beads
• No migration in filling material
• No peeling/delamination
• No curling (pad)
• Orange peel / crack marks (pad): Min Grade 3, use the following grading system when assessing the degree
of orange peel appearance
6.1.2 GRADING SYSTEM FOR INTIMATE APPAREL PAD

GRADE DESCRIPTION PHOTO FOR REFERENCE
Completely smooth appearance, no

Grade 5
puckering (accepted)
Smooth appearance, slight puckering

Grade 4
visible (accepted)
Moderately smooth appearance, some

Grade 3
puckering visible (accepted)

Not smooth appearance, puckering
Grade 2
very visible (rejected)
Bumpy appearance, high level of

Grade 1
puckering visible (rejected)
6.2 BONDED SEAM APPEARANCE - PASS/FAIL EVALUATION REFERENCE PHOTOS
Bonded Seam Appearance: Refer to the below photos for reference

TEST RATING DESCRIPTION PHOTO FO REFERENCE
PASS No edge lifting and delamination
FAIL Edge Lifting ≥ 1.5mm
FAIL Delamination

6.3 REFLECTIVE TAPE APPEARANCE - PASS/FAIL EVALUATION REFERENCE PHOTO
Reflective Tape Appearance: Refer to the below photos for reference (checking the appearance by stretching the portion in
5~10% extension)
TEST RATING DESCRIPTION PHOTO FO REFERENCE
PASS No crack marks and delamination
FAIL Obvious crack marks and delamination
6.4 GARMENT SIZE STICKER RESTRICTIONS
NOT FOR LAB USE – Internal Use Only

Due to sticker adhesive transferring to or removing components of a garment, it is advised that size stickers or any other stickers should not be
applied to garments that fit into the following description(s):
Construction
Hand-knitted sweaters Taffeta Velour Gauze/ open weaves
Hand-embroidery all over Sherpa Chiffon Velvets
Mesh/open knits all over Charmeuse Crepes French Terry
Moleskin Satins Corduroy
Graphics/ Embellishments/ Finishing*
Flocking Glitter and Crackle Print PU coating Sequins and Paillettes
Fringe and Rosettes Puff print Wax Coating Heat, screen and high density silicon
prints
Foil Print Fiber Type/ Special Dye
Fiber Type/ Special Dye
Silk Suede/ Faux Suede Cashmere, Wool, Alpaca Animal Fur/ Faux fur
Leather/ Faux Leather Metallic yarns True bouclé yarns Linen
Pigment Dye/ Print
Limitations for sticker placement only apply if the graphic, embellishment or finish is all-over and it is not possible to avoid placing sticker directly
over these graphics, embellishments, etc.. If the sticker can be placed onto garment so that the graphic, embellishment, etc. can be avoided, then
applying sticker in this situation would be acceptable.

6.5 ZIPPER SPECIFICATION CHART #4000
Lab must refer to below table for the zipper test specifications.
FASTENER CLASS 1-2 3-4 5-7 (A) 5-7 (B) 8-9 10
Closed Chain Width (in) .125-.180 .125-.180 .180-.310 .180-.310 .310-.390 .320-.500
Tape Width (in) 7/16-9/16 7/16-9/16 9/16-3/4 9/16-3/4 5/8-3/4 3/4-1.0
Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf, min.) ASTM D2061; 14.1
Brass/Nickel 66.0 121.0 132.0 143.0 165.0 165.0
Aluminium 52.8 77.0 77.0 88.0 110.0 110.0
Plastic 52.8 59.4 77.0 77.0 110.0 132.0
CEF 66.0 77.0 132.0 154.0 176.0 220.0
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf, min.) ASTM D2061; 30.3
Brass/Nickel 15.4 19.8 22.0 33.0 48.4 48.4
Aluminium 15.4 15.4 26.4 33.0 48.4 48.4
Plastic 15.4 19.8 26.4 26.4 50.6 50.6
CEF 15.4 17.6 26.4 37.4 44.0 50.6
Element Pull-Off (lbf, min.) ASTM D2061; 14.2
Brass/Nickel 6.6 12.1 13.2 17.6 24.2 24.2
Aluminium 5.3 7.7 7.7 11.0 16.5 16.5
Plastic 5.3 5.5 9.9 9.9 17.6 19.8
Element Slippage, Lengthwise (lbf, min.) ASTM D2061; 14.3
Brass/Nickel 5.3 8.8 9.9 9.9 18.7 18.7
Aluminium 5.3 5.5 6.2 9.9 16.5 16.5
Plastic 5.3 7.1 11.0 11.0 15.4 22.0
Holding Strength of Slider Lock (lbf, min.) ASTM D2061; 92-100
Brass/Nickel 8.4 13.2 13.2 13.2 15.4 15.4
Aluminium 8.4 13.2 13.2 13.2 15.4 15.4
Plastic 3.5 5.5 7.7 13.2 13.2 15.4
CEF 4.4 4.4 11.0 13.2 15.4 15.4
Resistance to Pull-Off of Slider Pull (90°) (lbf, min.) ASTM D2061; 72-81
Brass/Nickel 22.0 22.0 33.0 44.0 66.0 66.0
Aluminium 22.0 22.0 39.6 44.0 66.0 66.0
Plastic 22.0 22.0 39.6 39.6 44.0 66.0
CEF 17.6 17.6 39.6 44.0 55.0 66.0
Tab Twist-Off Strength (in-lbs.)-Zipper Tab Twist Method GAP INC. S1046
STANDARD PULL-TAB
Brass/Nickel 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
Aluminium 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
Plastic 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
CEF 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
DECORATIVE PULL-TAB
Brass/Nickel 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
Aluminium 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
Plastic 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
CEF 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
Operability (open/close) (lbf, max.) ASTM D2062; 16
Brass/Nickel 0.7 0.8 1.1 1.6 1.8 1.8
Aluminium 0.7 0.8 1.1 1.6 1.8 1.8
Plastic 1.1 1.1 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.0
CEF 1.1 0.9 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.0
Top Stop Holding (lbf, min.) ASTM D2061; 22.2
Brass/Nickel 15.4 19.8 22.0 28.6 39.6 39.6
Aluminium 15.4 17.6 22.0 22.0 22.0 22.0
Plastic 17.6 17.6 22.0 26.4 44.0 44.0
CEF 13.2 13.2 26.4 28.6 50.6 39.6
Bottom Stop Holding Strength, Stringer Separation (lbf, min.) ASTM D2061; 22.5
Brass/Nickel 8.4 17.6 17.6 22.0 33.0 33.0
Aluminium 7.7 12.1 15.4 15.4 22.0 22.0
Plastic 11.0 11.0 19.8 22.0 22.0 22.0
CEF 6.6 8.8 19.8 22.0 55.0 39.6

6.6 FILLING POWER SPECIFICATIONS
For China Inbound, Fill Power must comply with GB 14272‐2021 Appendix A as below:
Down Content (%) 50 55 60 65 70
Filling
Goose Down (cm) 11.5 12.0 12.5 13.0 13.5
Power 2
Duck Down (cm) 12.5 13.0 13.5 14.0 14.5
Down Content (%) 75 80 85 90 95

Filling
Power 2 Goose Down (cm) 14.0 14.5 15.5 16.0 16.5
Duck Down (cm) 15.0 15.5 16.5 17.0 17.5


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SOFTLINES PERFORMANCE & SPECIAL CLAIMS

PROTOCOLS & SPECIFICATIONS

SECTION 2 DEFINITIONS & ADDITIONAL TEST INSTRUCTIONS

SECTION 3 TEST PACKAGES

SECTION 4 CATEGORY PROTOCOLS

Softlines Performance and Special Claims Confidential Gap Inc. Property

SECTION 5 CARE GUIDELINES

Softlines Performance and Special Claims Confidential Gap Inc. Property

1.2 PRODUCT SCOPE

1.3 GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

1.4 CORPORATE TESTING POLICY

Softlines Performance and Special Claims Confidential Gap Inc. Property

2.1.1 DEFINITIONS - PROTOCOL APPLICATION

WHITE DENIM Use: Woven protocol

Protocol Application for different seamless products:

Refer to Sew-Free Test Group of the corresponding category

Softlines Performance and Special Claims Confidential Gap Inc. Property

SYNTHETIC Fiber includes chief value acrylic, nylon, polyester, modacrylic

WASHED Fabric, panel or garment washed

"Prepare for Dyed"

Softlines Performance and Special Claims Confidential Gap Inc. Property

2.1.3 TEST APPLICATION KEY

CODE PRODUCT CHARACTERISTIC / FIELD ON TRF

Softlines Performance and Special Claims Confidential Gap Inc. Property

2.2.2 DIGITAL COLORFASTNESS ASSESSMENT CONVERSION

2.2.3 COLORFASTNESS TO ACCELERATED LAUNDERING (ISO 105-C06)

ISO Program number Temperature Remark Relevant to AATCC 61 Test Procedure

No steel ball, Sodium perborate

No steel ball, sodium perborate

Softlines Performance and Special Claims Confidential Gap Inc. Property

Failure Mode Abbreviation Code Description

2.2.5 DENIM 1HL PREPARED FABRIC AND 3HL PREPARED FABRIC

How to prepare "1HL prepared fabric" and "3HL prepared fabric":

2.2.6 SAMPLE SIZE FOR DOWN AND FILL TESTING

FILL TESTING - SAMPLE SIZE

Softlines Performance and Special Claims Confidential Gap Inc. Property

SECTION 3 TEST PACKAGES

Colorfastness to x x (x) (x) (x) Dev

Colorfastness to Non- x x (x) (x) Prod

Colorfastness to Light x x (x) (x) (x) Dev

Colorfastness to x x (x) (x) (x) Dev

Softlines Performance and Special Claims Confidential Gap Inc. Property

Colorfastness to Sea (x) (x) Swimwear Only

Durability to Home Laundering or Hand Wash or Dry Clean

General Appearance x x x x x (x) FW, GD, SD, P, GW

Torque After Home x x x x x (x) FW, GD, SD, P, GW

Footnote 1 Including but not limited to:

Softlines Performance and Special Claims Confidential Gap Inc. Property

Snagging (x) In-scope (x) In-scope

Shedding (x) Test on Request

Tensile Strength x x x (x) (x) FW, GD, GW, SW

Tear Strength x x x (x) (x) FW, GD, GW, SW

Seam Strength x x x x (x) FW, GW, GD, SW

Seam Slippage and Seam (x) (x) Test if present

Belt Loop Attachment (x) (x) Test if present

Pocket Attachment (x) (x) Test if present

Neck Stretch Fit (x) (x) Kids and Baby only

Resistance to (x) (x) Test if present

Button Attachment (x) (x) Test if present (Adult only)