the London Thames Path updated

edition David Fathers

Visit to download the full and correct content document:
https://ebookmeta.com/product/the-london-thames-path-updated-edition-david-fathers
/
More products digital (pdf, epub, mobi) instant
download maybe you interests ...

Bart Starr When Leadership Mattered Updated Edition

David Claerbaut

https://ebookmeta.com/product/bart-starr-when-leadership-
mattered-updated-edition-david-claerbaut/

Suede The Biography The Authorised Biography Third

Edition, Revised And Updated Edition Barnett David

https://ebookmeta.com/product/suede-the-biography-the-authorised-
biography-third-edition-revised-and-updated-edition-barnett-
david/

Updated Myers Psychology for the AP Course 3rd Edition

David G. Myers && C. Nathan Dewell

https://ebookmeta.com/product/updated-myers-psychology-for-the-
ap-course-3rd-edition-david-g-myers-c-nathan-dewell/

On the Formation of Clergy Fathers of the Church

Medieval Continuations

https://ebookmeta.com/product/on-the-formation-of-clergy-fathers-
of-the-church-medieval-continuations/
The Thames 1813 The War of 1812 on the Northwest
Frontier John F. Winkler

https://ebookmeta.com/product/the-thames-1813-the-war-of-1812-on-
the-northwest-frontier-john-f-winkler/

Tossed in the Thames Cassie Coburn Cozy Mystery 08

Samantha Silver Et El

https://ebookmeta.com/product/tossed-in-the-thames-cassie-coburn-
cozy-mystery-08-samantha-silver-et-el/

Tossed in the Thames Cassie Coburn Cozy Mystery 08

Samantha Silver Et El

https://ebookmeta.com/product/tossed-in-the-thames-cassie-coburn-
cozy-mystery-08-samantha-silver-et-el-2/

The Founding Fathers V the People Paradoxes of American

Democracy 1st Edition Anthony King

https://ebookmeta.com/product/the-founding-fathers-v-the-people-
paradoxes-of-american-democracy-1st-edition-anthony-king/

Politics After Violence Legacies Of The Shining Path

Conflict In Peru 1st Edition Hillel David Soifer
Alberto Vergara Ed S

https://ebookmeta.com/product/politics-after-violence-legacies-
of-the-shining-path-conflict-in-peru-1st-edition-hillel-david-
soifer-alberto-vergara-ed-s/
 THE
LONDON
THAMES
PATH
London Thames Path
Text and illustrations 2015, 2022 © David Fathers

First edition 2015

Second edition 2022
Published by Frances Lincoln Ltd,
an imprint of The Quarto Group,
The Old Brewery, 6 Blundell Street,
London N7 9BH, United Kingdom
T (0)20 7700 6700
www.Quarto.com

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in

a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without either prior
permission in writing from the publishers or a licence permitting restricted
copying. In the United Kingdom such licences are issued by the Copyright
Licensing Agency, Barnards Inn, 86 Fetter Lane, London EC4A 1EN.

ISBN: 978-0-7112-7626-0
Ebook ISBN: 978-0-7112-7627-7
Printed and bound in China

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
 THE
LONDON
THAMES
PATH
A guide to the Thames Path
from Putney Bridge to the Barrier

Written & illustrated by

DAVID FATHERS
Image on the opposite page; Albert Bridge with Battersea Power Station
THE LONDON THAMES PATH Contents map 6 The South Shore: A prelude 65

CONTENTS Using this book

Introduction
8

9
Putney
Battersea Reach
Battersea Park
66
68
70
The North Shore: A prelude 11 Battersea Power Station 72
Fulham 12 Vauxhall 74
Chelsea Harbour 14 Albert Embankment 76
Cheyne Walk 16 Lambeth Palace 78
Chelsea Embankment 18 The Watermen 80
Pimlico 20 London Eye 82
Millbank 22 South Bank 84
Westminster 24 National Theatre 86
Westminster Abbey 26 The Frost Fairs 88
Victoria Embankment 28 Bankside 90
Sir Joseph Bazalgette 30 Southwark Cathedral 92
Victoria Embankment Gardens 32 Old London Bridge 94
Temple 34 The Queen’s Walk 96
St Paul’s 36 The Shard 98
In 1929, after hearing a comparison made
Walbrook 38 Bermondsey 100
between the Mississippi River and the River
Sir Christopher Wren 40 Death and the Thames 102
Thames by a visiting American congressman,
Pool of London 42 Rotherhithe 104
John Burns, a trade unionist and former
Tower of London 44 Surrey Commercial Docks 106
MP for Battersea proudly retorted:
St Katherine Docks 46 Deptford 108
‘The Mississippi is muddy water, but
Wapping 48 Greenwich 110
the Thames is liquid history.’
A Word on the Water 50 Greenwich Peninsula 112
Limehouse 52 Bugsby’s Reach 114
Canary Wharf 54 The London Thames Crossings 116
Island Gardens 56 The Thames Estuary 118
Cubitt Town 58
Blackwall 60 Acknowledgements, Bibliography 120
Thames Barrier 62 Index 123
 Central London detail
see panel below

8 6
e7 t7
l ac en
m
Pa nk
th ba
be Em
m
La rt 4
be
Al l7
al
u xh
4 Va 72
r2 22 io
n
ste nk at
in ba St
tm ill er
es M w
W 20 Po
lic
o ea
rs
Pi
m tte
Ba
70
CONTENTS

rk
THE LONDON THAMES PATH

Pa

6
ea
rs
tte
8 Ba
t1
en
m
nk
ba 68
Em a ch
lse
a Re
he ea
C rs
tte
Ba
16
k
al
eW
yn
he
C 14
ur
bo
ar
H
a 66
lse ey
he tn
C Pu
12
am
lh
Fu
 62
ier
rr
Ba 4
es 11
m
ha a ch
T
he Re
T ’s
by
gs
Bu 11
2
la
su
n in
Pe
ich
0 nw 0
l6 re
e 11
al G ch
kw wi 96
ac en k
Bl re al
G W 98
’s
58 en ard
ue h
wn Q eS
To 56 he h
T 92
itt ns 42 T al
ub de do
n dr
C ar on he
G at
d fL C
an lo ar
k
54 Isl o
hw
rf Po
ha ut

7
W So
y
ar
an 8 38 90
C k e
6 10 oo sid
10 rd br nk
tfo al Ba
ks ep W
oc D
52 D 36 86
se ey l’s re
ou rr 4 u at
eh Su 10 Pa he
e lT
m ith St
Li rh na
he io
t at
Ro N
48 84
ng 34 nk 2
pi pl
e Ba e8
ap 0 m ut
h
Ey
W 10 Te So
ey on
ds nd
on Lo

CENTRAL LONDON
46 rm
k ia
oc Be or t
D ct en
e’s 96 Vi km 32
rin al
k n
ba den
s ia 8
he or
at W
’s 98 Em Gar ct t 2
K f
ro 4 en d Vi en
St we n 4 ue ar m
Q Sh nk
To ndo he he ba
Lo T T Em
Using this book
There are 65km (40 miles) of walks detailed in this book, but they
are not seriously intended to be walked in one go. Circular walks can
be planned by adding together the distances marked on each section,
plus approximately 300m per bridge. East of Tower Bridge there
are no further bridge crossings, though there is a rail tunnel between
Wapping and Rotherhithe, a foot tunnel at Greenwich and a ferry
between Hilton Docklands and Canary Wharf.
At the time of preparing this second edition, a new ‘super sewer’
tunnel is being bored under the Thames. This has resulted in several
sections of the Thames Path being closed while the work progresses.
Alternative routes have been signposted and it is hoped that the
worked will be completed by 2025.
The Thames Path is shown throughout by a red dotted line and
with steps where access is required up or down to and from bridges.
The nearest Underground, DLR and railway stations are also featured
along with Thames Clipper piers. The Thames path is often indicated
with signs such as the one below.

Thames Path Underground station

Steps DLR station

Railway station Overground station

Thames Clipper pier

8
INTRODUCTION
To walk the London Thames Path is to explore a vital artery of
one of the greatest cities on earth. For over 2,000 years the river
has shaped London’s development, and more recently Londoners
have shaped the river itself. The capital’s entire existence was
founded upon the Thames, which was the conduit of power
and trade, finance and security, but it also brought floods, wars,
plagues and disasters.
CONTROL
Power has always resided beside the water’s edge in London. The
Romans built their first fortification around what is now known as
Ludgate Hill, where St Paul’s Cathedral now stands. William the
Conqueror chose to site his castle, the Tower
of London, just to the east of the City, upon
an existing Roman fort. Numerous English
kings and queens have located their palaces
and castles beside the Thames, at Greenwich
and Whitehall, Windsor and Hampton.
These were places of security, safely accessible
by water. Politicians and clergy also desired
proximity to the river’s edge at Westminster and
Lambeth. In the past hundred years or more,
local London politicos have sited their County and City Halls
along the south bank.
TRADE
For millennia, goods have been carried along the Thames, either
between the two shores or by vessels trading beyond London.
The river, though tidal, was the most convenient form of
transporting of goods and people. Access to the water enabled so
many industries to develop – to get raw materials in and finished
goods out. By the early twentieth century, London was the largest
9
city on earth, and a hub of industry the likes of which had not
been seen. From biscuits to paint, from pianos to ships . . . just
about everything and anything was being manufactured in the
metropolis. William Blake’s ‘dark Satanic Mills’ was a reference to
the belching factory chimneys of the south bank. The riverbanks
were crammed with warehouses, cranes and shipping.
As London and the British Empire grew, the demands for
greater port access likewise increased. Shipping, tied up in the
middle of the Thames, had to wait days, sometimes weeks, to
either dock or be unloaded by lightermen in their smaller vessels.
Larger and larger docks were created further downstream
in the early 1800s, first at St Katherine’s, then Wapping and
Rotherhithe, and later at the Isle of Dogs
and North Woolwich. The river became
a superhighway of ships and merchant
vessels. A sizeable area of East London
had been excavated and filled with water
(see map: overleaf). However, the demands of
trade led, by the 1970s, to containerisation
and deepwater ships. London, a victim of its
own success, could no longer compete, and the river traffic
drifted away to ports further downstream, such as Tilbury and
Harwich.
It is difficult now to imagine the amount of shipping that
used to be tied up in the river waiting to be unloaded and loaded.
Traffic on the Thames today is a mere ripple by comparison.
The warehouses have been converted into fine loft apartments,
the offices and the cranes turned to scrap, and many of the
inland ports have been filled in and built upon. On the Isle of
Dogs, in the 1980s, a whole new commercial venture was created
on the site of the docks. Canary Wharf replaced physical trading
with financial transaction.
 Regent’s Canal East India Docks
Dock
St Katherine
Dock West India Docks
London
Docks
Millwall
Dock
Surrey Docks
THE GREAT STINK
Prior to the nineteenth century, the Thames in London was, in
places, three times the width we see today. Much of the land,
especially to the south, consisted of marshland and tidal flood
plains. Londoners had made some piecemeal progress in creating
embankments to prevent erosion and create accessible moorings.
By 1861, the population of Greater London had trebled to
over 3 million in just sixty years. The sewage infrastructure was
unable to cope and nearly all human ordure and industrial waste
still ended up in the Thames. Drinking water was still being taken
from the river and the risk of epidemics increased. The ‘Great
Stink’ from the Thames forced Parliament to relocate in 1858,
shortly after the Metropolitan Board of Works was established to
create an integrated sewage system with processing plants, and to
embank and narrow the river, thus increasing the speed of tidal
flow to flush away foul waters.
THE FALL AND RISE
In the 150 years prior to 1900, twelve bridges were built over the
10
Royal Albert
Royal Victoria Dock Dock
The Docks of East London, c.1900
river in London. This drastically reduced the need for water taxis
and lightermen carrying people and goods from shore to shore.
Containerised shipping took most of the maritime trade away
from London. At around the same time heavy industry in the
capital went into decline. London has turned to other trades and
commercial activities, but not ones that depend upon the Thames.
Today the river is enjoying a new lease of life. It is cleaner
now than it has been for hundreds of years. Fish are
regularly caught along the banks of the Thames and
seals and dolphins are occasionally sighted. In a
bid to improve their green credentials, many
companies are increasingly using the Thames to
move materials in and refuse out by barge. Tourist
boats and a regular ‘waterbus’ service ply along
the water. Even though the English monarchs have
abandoned their London riverside palaces, those
who can afford and desire to live by the Thames,
can now do so. Several seats of power still cling to
the river, though now through a sense of tradition.
THE NORTH SHORE:
A prelude

The walk along the north shore of the London Thames described
in this book covers a distance of just over 33km (20 miles). While
a large percentage follows the bank of the river, occasionally the
route detours away from the Thames. Ancient property rights
have prevented the creation of riverside walks.
Officially, the Thames Path stops at the Greenwich Foot
Tunnel. However, I have taken a route on to the Thames Barrier
in order to explore some splendid Thamesside and Dockland
features. On this northern shore, if you walk from west to east,
through Fulham and Chelsea to the renovated Docklands and
finally the Thames Barrier, you will pass through Westminster, the
very heart of power, where Government, Monarchy country
and Church reside. Step further on to Temple and the residence to
City of London and you are treading upon strata of the Bishops of London
maritime trade and business, culture and the Isle of Dogs was a marshland almost devoid of
and bloodshed that span some 2,000 human habitation. By the early nineteenth century the
years. capital had become a massive industrial workshop. Small
Since the Romans first encamped around docks and wharves, industry and factories cluttered the
the River Walbrook, the docks to the east riverbanks. However, later that century almost all these
of the City have been inextricably linked vestiges were swept away when the river was narrowed and
with the heart of finance and commerce. embanked to channel sewage away from the Thames. By
This interdependence continued until Bow Creek, as it enters the Thames, there was once
about the 1970s. While the docks a huge shipbuilding yard, yet to walk over it today,
have declined from a leading global hardly a rivet remains.
position, the City has continued to
thrive and occupy new spaces
Clockwise from left: The Tower of
vacated by the warehouses and
London, Map of the Docks, the
docks on the Isle of Dogs. Walbrook sluice gate,
In a space of 200 years, so Canary Wharf and
much has changed: Fulham the Thames
was still market gardens and Barrier.
11
 1 Fulham Palace 2 All Saints Church
This is one of the least known of all London’s palaces, yet it is a gem of a This church was constructed in 1440 on a previous
place, close to the river. A newly restored walled garden, tree-lined walks site of worship. It is largely constructed of Kentish
and a splendid Tudor hall are located within this 11 hectare site. Bishops ragstone, brought up by boat. The
have resided here since about ad 700, and from Tudor times the palace has tower is the only remaining original
served as country retreat for the Bishops of London. The river gave them feature, the rest of the church being
direct access to the seats of power at Westminster and Hampton Court. rebuilt in the early 1880s. At least
Bishop Stopford was the last bishop to reside here, moving out ten Bishops of London are buried
in 1973. The buildings, café and public gardens are now run in the churchyard. All Saints church
by the local council. Access to most areas is free of charge. was featured in the 1976 version of
The Omen. Father Brennan (played
Right: Entrance to the
by Patrick Troughton) was impaled
walled garden
by a falling lightning rod.

v 1
Th
am
e sP
ath
to Ha Café
mm Putney Bridge

ach
ersm
ith 3 Putney Underground

ppro
Walled garden Railway Bridge
The Boat Race

ge A
First opened to rail traffic
Putney Bridge is the starting in 1889 and constructed of

rid
point of the annual rowing race Portland stone and steel, it
2

ey B
between the university boat clubs of Oxford now carries the Wimbledon

Putn
and Cambridge. The first race was held in 1829 and has branch of the District line.
continued uninterrupted since 1856 (except during the two
World Wars). Over a quarter of a million people line the banks of
the Thames to watch the race, plus millions on TV, on either the last
Saturday of March or the first Saturday of April. The finish line
is 6.8km upstream at Mortlake. ON THE OTHER Putney Bridge 3
They race on an incoming BANK
flood tide. St Mary’s
page 66

12
 ad FULHAM
Ro Fulham Palace – Broomhouse Lane
m
g ha
rlin 2.2km In the early nineteenth century, Fulham
Hu was still rural with market gardens supplying
fresh produce to the growing London
population. It is
Hurlingham Club now a largely affluent
In the eighteenth century, Fulham was residential area.
considered a rural area. Many of the wealthy
from London built country retreats here. In 1760, Dr 4
William Cadogan, an advocate and writer on radical
child care, had a house built for himself and his family. One 4 The Elizabethan Schools
hundred years later, the building, Hurlingham House, became In 1855 this piece of Gothic
a club and home to pigeon shooting. In Revival architecture (above) was
Napier A

Br
1874 polo was introduced and the club built as a ‘ragged’ school and

oo
became renowned for the sport and created

mh
almshouse. It is currently
the governing

ou
being converted into
venue

se
body, known as residential apartments.

La
Hurlingham Polo

ne
Association. However,
ns
a n e la g h G a rd e polo is no longer played wath
Rd
R
here. Hurlingham Club is now a private club
Carn
A defensive Second World War offering croquet, tennis and swimming. The grounds
pillbox (above) remains by the
and the riverfront are inaccessible
Underground line and is visible
to non-members.
from Ranelagh Gardens.

13
 CHELSEA HARBOUR Lots Road Power Station,
as viewed from the south
Carnwath Road – Lots Road 3.0km shore of the Thames
In the late 1880s, this land, running down to the Thames at Wandsworth
Bridge, was still largely occupied by market gardens. Today it is a very
unprepossessing area, comprising modern warehouses and retail outlets.
Beyond the bridge, however, as the path turns north, the imposing
Chelsea Harbour comes into view.

Wandsworth Bridge

Ca
rnw
ath
Rd

dle
an
W Tow 2 Imperial Wharf
ver
Ri nm
ead These new and anonymous blocks of
Rd

v Rd apartments, set back and surrounded by well

ge

manicured gardens, announce to the eastbound

rid

Sainsbury’s walker and cyclist that this is the beginning

hB

of extensive riverside developments along the

or t

Ave
sw

tral Thames. Between here and the Isle of Dogs,

nd

hardly a scrap of land is sacred or untouchable.

Cen
Wa

The site was formerly a biscuit works and the

1 Imperial Timber wharf.
Fulham Riverside
1 Wandsworth Bridge
ON THE OTHER BANK When the first Wandsworth Bridge opened in 1873, it was riddled with structural problems.
Solid Waste Transfer Depot and In 1897 the speed of crossing traffic had to be restricted to 10 mph and it was reduced
River Wandle page 67 virtually to the status of a footbridge. Demands for its replacement were not fully
14
5 Lots Road Power Station
This former electricity generating station stands on what the Thames and into what was then known as Counter’s
was once the Cremorne Pleasure Gardens (see page 16). Creek (now Chelsea Creek). In the 1960s the number of
It opened in 1905 to supply power to the Brompton chimneys on the power station was reduced from four to
and Piccadilly Circus Railway (now the Piccadilly line). two. From a distance it must have resembled Battersea
Coal was supplied to the generating station by barges coming up power station (see page 72). It was decommissioned in 2002
Above: Site of and is now being converted into retail
The Imperial Lot
3 Chelsea Harbour s R and residential facilities.

Dr
Gas Works. oa d
This modern, eclectic and expensive development

ur
5

rbo
of residential apartments, offices, shops and a

Ha
hotel encircles a marina that was once Imperial 4
Ch

ea
the railway dock for the Kensington Canal Wharf els

els
(now Chelsea Creek). Chelsea Harbour was Overground ea
C reek

Ch
built between 1986 and 1989 and despite
its name, is actually located in Fulham.
The Belvedere Tower is twenty-one storeys/76m high
and is a landmark feature. The apex is topped with a
golden tide ball that rises and falls with the tidal river.
3
4 Chelsea Creek
This spur is all that remains of the
2 3.2km Kensington Canal, which was
built in 1828 by dredging and widening
Counter’s Creek. One of its functions
was to provide easy access for coal barges
Chelsea Harbour Pier to the Imperial Gas Works, some of the
gas holders of which are still visible.

Imperial Wharf Marina

Battersea Railway Bridge

realised until 1940. Due to wartime financial ON THE

restraints, the bridge has a very utilitarian OTHER BANK
appearance (opposite page). St Mary's Church page 69
15
CHEYNE WALK 3 Crosby Moran Hall
Lots Road – Cheyne Walk 1.2km This building was originally located in
Bishopsgate in the City of London and was
When Chelsea was a village beyond London, Cheyne Walk was a quiet
known in the fifteenth century as one of the
riverside walkway lined with fine houses and trees overlooking the
tallest buildings in the country. It was built by
Thames. In 1874, the Chelsea Embankment was created, narrowing the the wool merchant John Crosby and was once
river at this point; the carriageway was widened and a major sewer laid home to Sir Thomas More. In 1908 it was
below. The road is now extremely busy at times but it does not mask threatened with demolition and was remarkably
the serenity of the architecture just beyond. moved, brick by brick, to its current location in
Chelsea. Now owned by Christopher Moran,
1 Cremorne Gardens the Chairman of Co-operation Ireland, it is
This tiny patch of grass by the river is all that remains of what currently closed to the public and undergoing
was the last of the great London ‘pleasure gardens’. It opened a multi-million-pound restoration.
in 1845 and gave the London populace the opportunity to
indulge in theatre, dancing, bowls, music and banqueting. For
a while, in 1848, it featured the world’s first ‘steam powered
aeroplane’. The artist James McNeill Whistler, a local Below: Statue of
inhabitant, created several paintings of the gardens. By the the artist J.M.

Beaufort Street
1860s it had developed a reputation for promiscuity and it Whistler. 3
was closed down in 1877, following a campaign by various
local churches. Much of the grounds, stretching as far as
King’s Road, were sold off for housing
and manufacturing enterprises.

alk
y ne W Chelsea Em
bankment
Che 2 Battersea Bridge
In 1771, a wooden bridge consisting of
nineteen spans (or piers) crossed the river at a Battersea Bridge
point that had once been a horse ferry crossing.
oad It featured in several paintings by local artists, including 2
sR
Lot J.M.W. Turner and James McNeill Whistler. By the 1880s, the
bridge was reduced to a footbridge. The current bridge (right), designed
1 by Sir Joseph Bazalgette, consists of five cast-iron arches on granite piers and was
opened in 1890. At 12m wide it is one of the narrowest crossings in London.
16
 4 Chelsea Old Church Right: A memorial to mark Blue plaque heaven
the opening of the Chelsea
(All Saints) Embankment in 1874,
Cheyne Walk has been an address
This church, dating from 1157, with its for many writers, artists and
located outside the Chelsea
original interior, is built of brick, as it was engineers of the past few
Old Church.
badly damaged during the Blitz in the hundred years. This short street
Second World War. A statue of a stern, is awash with blue plaques.
gold-faced Sir Thomas More sits outside 5 Chelsea House no.:
the church. More, Lord Chancellor to Manor 4 George Eliot Novelist
Henry VIII and author of Utopia, lived near Located at the site 16 Dante Gabriel Rossetti Painter
by and had a private chapel built within of 19–26 Cheyne 24 Thomas Carlyle Philosopher
the church. More was Walk, Chelsea 93 Elizabeth Gaskell Novelist
later executed for Manor was once a 96 J.M.Whistler Painter
his beliefs in Papal country home to 98 Isambard Kingdom Brunel and
supremacy over the Henry VIII and Sir Marc Isambard Brunel Civil engineers
English throne. a number of his wives. The 104 Hilaire Belloc Poet and historian
building was demolished after Walter Greaves Artist
the death of it last 108 John Tweed Sculptor
owner, Sir Hans 109 Philip Wilson Steer Painter
Sloane, in 1753. 120 Sylvia Pankhurst Women’s rights campaigner
Sloane is buried Henry James, T.S. Eliot, Ian Fleming all lived
Old Church St

in a splendid at Carlyle Mansion on Cheyne Walk. It became

Oakley Street
tomb within known as ‘Writers’ Block’.
the grounds of
Chelsea Old Below: The site of
4 Church. Chelsea Manor
C h ey
ne W
alk 5
ON THE OTHER BANK
Albion Riverside page 69

C h ey n e
Walk
Chels
ea Em
Albert Bridge Cadogan bankm
Pier ent
17
CHELSEA EMBANKMENT 2 Royal Hospital Chelsea
The hospital was founded by Charles II in 1682
Cheyne Walk – Chelsea Bridge Road 1.0km
to provide housing for retired and injured army
The eastern end of the Chelsea Embankment is a very verdant
veterans. The building today is still occupied by
section of the urban Thames. Several old parks and gardens have retired soldiers, better known today
survived the onslaught of metropolitan expansion, including the as Chelsea Pensioners, easily
Royal Hospital and the Chelsea Physic Gardens. Battersea Park identified by their scarlet
can be viewed across the river. The Chelsea Embankment is the tunics. The grand Baroque red-
straightest section of the Thames in London. brick structure was designed by
Sir Christopher Wren and was one
1 Chelsea Physic Garden of his first secular commissions.
This garden was created in 1673 by the Worshipful Society of
It is built on three sides around
Apothecaries to study the medicinal properties of plants.
the Figure Court, open to the south
The land on which it stood was purchased by Sir
grounds and the river beyond. The
Hans Sloane and leased back to the Society in
chapel, also by Wren, contains a
perpetuity for £5 a year. The location,
splendid altar fresco of the
so close to the river, gives the
ad Resurrection by Sebastiano Ricci.
garden a micro-climate that
l Ro In the Great Hall, the Duke of
enables more exotic plants ita
o sp Wellington lay in state in 1852.
to survive. The garden
lH A vivid, gilded statue
is open to the ya Right: A Chelsea
Ro Pensioner and the main of Charles II
public.
Hospital portico. dressed as a
Roman emperor
1 stands in the middle
of the central Figure Court.
Much of the Hospital and grounds are open to
the public.
ON THE
OTHER BANK
Battersea Park
Chelsea Embankment page 71

18
 3 River Westbourne 4 Ranelagh Pleasure Gardens
This is one of London’s ‘lost rivers’. Created in 1742, these gardens included a large,
Now culverted for most of its length, 45m circular wooden hall known as the Rotunda.
it runs from the western side of Customers paying the two shillings and sixpence
Hampstead through Kilburn, and (12½p) entrance fee were provided with music,
used to supply water to the Serpentine food, dance and drink. The Ranelagh was
lake in Hyde Park. The pipe seen as a more upmarket version of its
carrying the Westbourne can be rival across the river in Vauxhall (see
2 seen on the platform at Sloane page 76). In 1764, an eight-year-old

Ch
Square Underground Mozart played the harpsichord here.

els
Chelsea station. The grounds closed in 1801 and

ea
Flower Show

Br
the Rotunda was demolished

idg
The grounds of the Royal Hospital a few years later. In 1886–8

eR
Chelsea have been home to the Chelsea Flower Show the grounds became home

oa
since 1913. Organised by the Royal Horticultural to Fulham FC before

d
Society, this hugely popular event runs for five days they moved to Craven
in the fourth week of May each year. It features Cottage further west.
4
many modern and traditional landscape and Today, only the
garden designs from all around the world. The garden name
show is visited by over 155,000 people each year. and a few trees
3 remain.
Subter ranean River W
estbou
r ne

Chelsea Embankment

Chelsea Bridge
19
 1 Grosvenor Canal
This small tidal inlet was originally an access point for the Chelsea Waterworks Company to
pump water from the Thames and supply it as drinking water to parts of London. In the
1820s, the inlet was extended further northwards as a canal with locks, to allow barges to
carry building materials and coal for the growing estates around Belgravia
and Pimlico. It was known as the Grosvenor Canal. By the 1850s, the
water company had gone and canal use declined. The canal basin
was filled in to make way for Victoria station, which opened in 1860.
During the
twentieth century, this already 2 Chelsea Bridge
short canal was truncated The building of Battersea Park in the 1850s Far left: Lock entrance to the Thames.
further and is resulted in the demand for a new bridge to Above: Chelsea Bridge.
now just an allow easier access to the park from the north
ornamental 1 shore. Both the park and the bridge (designed 3 The Western Pumping
water feature by Thomas Page) were opened by Queen Station
for the Victoria on the same day in 1858. By the This Italianate building (below left) was
newly built 1930s, the bridge had become too opened in 1875 to house a sewage pumping
office blocks small for the demands of the station. Four steam, now electric, engines
Ch

surrounding it. twentieth century. It was raised raw sewage up into the main Thames
els
ea

demolished and a more Embankment pipe and on to the Beckton

Bd

utilitarian successor treatment works. It forms part of Sir Joseph

ge

3 opened in 1937 (above). Bazalgette’s grand Victorian

Rd

sewerage network for London.

Grosven
or Road
4 Grosvenor
Railway Bridge
This was the first railway bridge to span the Thames in
4 London. It opened in 1860 to link Victoria station with the south
coast. The bridge has been widened twice – in 1866 and 1907 –
2 and the number of tracks increased to ten. The bridge took its
name from the Grosvenor Canal over which it was built. In the
1960s the entire structure was modernised.
20
PIMLICO 7 St George's Square
Chelsea Bridge Road – St George’s Square 1.2km This is the only residential
Pimlico is an area of riverside dwelling created largely by the builder square that opens onto the
Thames. This long thin
Thomas Cubitt in the second quarter of the nineteenth century. It was
‘square’ was part of Thomas
raised out of the marshland from the spoils dug from St Katherine Docks.
Cubitt’s grand plan for
Despite the stuccoed terraces, the area was still very industrialised, with gas Pimlico to provide elegant
works to the east and brewery and pumping station and canal to the west. stuccoed terraces for the
growing middle classes
5 Dolphin Square 6 William Huskisson of London in the
This huge brick-built edifice was constructed in 1937 1840s. At number 26,
Huskisson (1770–1830) was a
and was at the time the largest block of flats Bram Stoker, author
politician, best known as the
in Europe. Standing over of Dracula, died
first victim of rail travel. He 7
Cubitt’s building yard, in 1912. Pimlico
was struck by Stephenson’s
it has 1,250 apartments Gardens form
steam engine Rocket in 1830.
over 3.2 hectares. The hot the southern
The marble statue (far
water supply used to come end of St
right), commissioned by
from Battersea Power Station George’s
his wife, was originally
across the river. The facilities Square.
located in Liverpool
within this secure residence 5 before being moved to
include a swimming pool, a Pimlico Gardens.
gym, and tennis
and croquet courts.
6
Given its proximity to
r Road
Westminster, it is second veno
Gros
home to numerous
Members of Parliament
and senior civil servants.

Westminster
Boating Base

ON THE OTHER BANK

Battersea Power Station page 72
21
MILLBANK 2 Millbank
St George’s Square – Penitentiary
This was the UK’s first
Lambeth Bridge 1.5km
‘modern’ prison.
Beyond the stuccoed terraces of
From above it
Pimlico and on to Millbank, Tate Britain’s Pimlico appeared as a
suggestion of culture and refinement Underground six-pointed star or
hides a dark past. On this site once stood snowflake (see plan right),
the notorious Millbank Penitentiary. Many with the control hub at the
of the prisoners being held here were centre of the institution. The
about to be transported to Australia. This design was partially influenced by Cu
re
was the last time their feet would touch the ‘panopticon’ prison layout of A small section of

ton
m
British soil. the social theorist Jeremy Bentham. the ditch (right) that

er Tybur

St
The Millbank Penitentiary, opened surrounded the prison
in 1816, and would eventually hold has survived, and is still
1 River Tyburn visible on the bend of

nean Riv
over 850 prisoners. It became a
The source of the now-subterranean River

Vauxhall Bridge Road

clearing-house for those sentenced to Cureton Street.
Tyburn is in Hampstead, north London. As it
be transported to Australia.
Subter ra
flows south it travels over the Regent’s Canal John Islip St
The convicted would
in an iron conduit, through an antiques
be moved downstream
shop basement and under the front of
on small vessels to the Bessborough
Buckingham Palace. Until the late 1960s,
transportation ships moored Gardens
the final few hundred metres of the river
off Woolwich. The prison
were still exposed. A rebuilt sluicegate
closed in 1890 and the land
keeper’s house still exists by the
is now covered by Tate Britain
Gr River Thames. and Chelsea College of Art.
os
ve
n or e in River
side

oor
Ro Wa

nr y M
ad lk
th
fo o t p a
Vauxhall Bridge

Ga
ative

s by He
altern

rde
ns
1

ng Piece
ck i
Lo
Millbank Estate Left: A typical doorway
Behind Tate Britain stands a series of workers’ on the Millbank Estate.
housing blocks built in the Arts and Crafts style. Right: Clore Gallery entrance.
They were completed in 1902. Appropriately,
given the location, each block is named after a
British artist.

3 Tate Britain 4 Millbank Tower

The gallery was created in 1897 by Sir Henry Tate, a manufacturer
and sugar refiner. Tate used his profits to develop a gallery on the site
of the old penitentiary to house his collection of British art. The
architect Sidney R.J. Smith created a large porticoed frontage facing
the Thames. The Tate Gallery, as it was originally known, grew in
size as new collections were acquired from both the
UK and overseas. Additional galleries have been
added over the years, including the Post-
modernist Clore Gallery (1987), designed
by Sir James Stirling and Wilford Associates
to house the J.M.W. Turner collection.
By the early 1990s, the Trustees
of the Tate decided to split the
ever-expanding London-based
collection into several parts and
to create a new gallery further
downstream at Bankside to be
known as Tate Modern (see page
90). The Millbank gallery, Tate
Britain, now displays exclusively
British art.
Millb
2 3
ON THE OTHER BANK
MI6 HQ page 75
23
This thirty-two-storey tower opened in 1963 and at 118m
high it briefly held the record for the tallest building in the
UK. The tower, with its convex and concave sides, was
designed by Ronald Ward & Partners and was inspired
by the works of Mies van der Rohe, a pioneer of
Modernist architecture. Originally built for the
Vickers-Armstrong Group, it has become
best known more recently as the
headquarters of the Labour
Party between 1995 and
2000. It is now a
Grade II listed
building.
5
Lambeth
Bridge
4
ank 5 Thames House
This stone-clad Neoclassical
building was designed by Sir
Frank Baines in 1929–30. In
Millbank 1994 it became the new home to
Millennium Pier the British Security Service, MI5.
WESTMINSTER
Lambeth Bridge – Westminster Bridge 1.0km
After the last Ice Age, the River Tyburn formed a small delta in the marshland before reaching the Thames. The first
settlements were founded on a gravel outcrop within the delta, probably for reasons of defence. It became known as
Thorney Island and it is here that Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament now stand. This section of the
walk goes through the very heart of British Government, Monarchy and Church.

The Houses of Parliament

This building, along with its clock tower ‘Big Ben’, has come which saw nearly a hundred entries, the Gothic Revivalists won the
to symbolise London. There has been a royal palace on this day. The new building was created by Sir Charles Barry and Augustus
site since the reign of Edward the Confessor (1042–66). W.N. Pugin. Pugin was just twenty-three when he started work
Following a fire in 1263, Henry III rebuilt the palace and on the interior, designing every detail down to the coat
made it the centre of his government, and it became the hangers and inkwells. The entire structure is 287m
prime residence for the English monarchy. Access to the long and was positioned on the banks of the Thames
river was key for communication and transport. A second as a defensive measure insisted upon by the Duke
fire in 1512 forced the removal of the monarch to the of Wellington. Today, the river immediately
Palace of Whitehall further north on the river. Parliament adjacent to Parliament is off-limits to shipping.
now met in what remained of the old royal palaces.
Right: Henry Moore’s Knife Edge Two-Piece 1962–65.
The Westminster Palace, as it was still known, grew
Below right: Auguste Rodin’s The Burghers of
haphazardly, with no real planning. It was not the Calais (in Victoria Tower Gardens).
grandiose structure we see today. A third fire in
k
1834 destroyed most of the buildings except for Millban
Westminster Hall (built by William II in 1099) Victoria
with its magnificent hammerbeam roof. A debate 1 Buxton Drinking Tower
Gardens
raged over how the new Parliament should Fountain
look. Following a competition This fountain (no longer working) was
1 commissioned by Charles Buxton MP,
son of Thomas Buxton, who along with William Wilberforce, was largely
ON THE OTHER BANK
responsible for the abolition of slavery throughout the British Colonies. It
Lambeth Palace page 78 was originally sited in Parliament Square in 1865, and later moved, in 1949
to Victoria Tower Gardens. However, this fabulous Gothic revivalist structure
carries no reference to the 12 million enslaved people.

24
 2 Victoria Tower Westminster Abbey Right: wallpaper designed by Pugin for
When completed in (see page 26) The Houses of Parliament
1860, it was the tallest
tower in the world at 4 Big Ben
98.4m high. The clock tower, built in 1858, is
96 metres tall and is commonly
referred to as Big Ben. It’s either
so called after Sir Benjamin
3 The Jewel Hall, chief commissioner of
Tower works or the prize pugalist of
This often over- the period, Benjamin Caunt.
looked structure,
2 The clock claims an accuracy
opposite Parliament, of +/- one second per day.
was built, on Abbey grounds, in 1366
by Edward III as a secure, moated St Margaret’s
Church Square
repository for the king’s wealth. Parliament
3 et
on Stre
Abingd
4
Westminster Hall

House of Commons
House of Lords

Westminster
Underground

West
minst
er Br
g
THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT
25
Poet’s Corner
Poet’s Corner, located in the south transept of Westminster Abbey,
is so called because of the large number of writers, poets and
playwrights that are buried or commemorated there. The first
writer interred here was Geoffrey Chaucer in 1400. Nearly
seventy notables are buried in Poet’s Corner (and around the
Abbey), including Robert Browning, Charles Dickens,
Thomas Hardy, Ben Jonson, Rudyard Kipling, Alfred
Lord Tennyson and the composers George Frideric
Handel and Henry Purcell. Those honoured, but not
interred here, include the Brontë sisters, William
Shakespeare, William Blake, John Betjeman, Samuel
Taylor Coleridge, Jane Austen, Ted Hughes, John
Keats, Edward Lear, Christopher Marlowe, Walter
Scott and Oscar Wilde. Space for more is rapidly
diminishing, and even the stained glass windows
are being consumed with memorials. Other
well known people buried here include Isaac
Newton, Charles Darwin, and the slave trade abolitionist William
Wilberforce. The Abbey houses one of the most impressive
collections of tombs and memorials in the world:
a thousand-year ‘Who’s Who’ of notable
Britons.
Left: The west façade of Westminster Abbey.
Below: The death mask of Oliver Cromwell.

Oliver Cromwell
The funeral of Oliver Cromwell, the puritan and
commonwealth leader, took place in the abbey in 1658 and his body
was briefly interred here. Following the restoration of the monarchy,
what was believed to Cromwell’s body was exhumed in 1661 and
posthumously hung at Tyburn. His severed head remained on a
pole at Westminster Hall for twenty-four years.

26
Coronations, Marriages and Deaths
With the exception of Edward V and Edward VIII, all
WESTMINSTER ABBEY
There has been a place of worship on this site for over a
English and later British monarchs since 1066
thousand years. In this glorious piece of medieval architecture
have been crowned at the Abbey.
Numerous monarchs are buried
nearly every English and British monarch has been crowned. The
here, including Edward Abbey has become the epitome of the union between the
the Confessor, Edward monarchy and the state.
II, Edward III, Henry
V and Elizabeth I. The Beginning
This trend for royal It is not certain who first established a religious institution on this
interrment within the site. The first Christian King of the East Saxons, Sæbert (604–16)
Abbey ceased in the may have founded a Benedictine monastery, St Peter’s Abbey, on
eighteenth century. the site of what is now Westminster Abbey. Sæbert has a tomb
Since the beginning within the present Abbey. However, archaeologists have recently
of the twentieth century found a body in Essex which they believe to be Sæbert. Under the reign
there have been ten royal of King Edgar (959–75), the Abbey received rights to the land
weddings here. over what is now the West End of London, and founded
a monastery with twelve monks. The area was originally
named West Mynstre as opposed to East Mynstre, the
Right: the gilt- religious settlement on Ludgate Hill – now the site of
bronze tomb of St Paul’s Cathedral. In the 1040s, Edward the Confessor began the process
Henry III, creator of the current Abbey. Left: George Eliot’s of building the Abbey, in the Romanesque style. He died in 1066 and was
memorial stone at Poet’s Corner. the first monarch to be buried within the newly consecrated Westminster
Abbey. In the thirteenth century, much of the Abbey was rebuilt by Henry
Tomb of the Unknown Warrior III (1215–72) in honour of the now canonised St Edward the Confessor.
The body of an unidentified British soldier of the First Several new structures were added at this time, including the chapter
World War was exhumed from a French battlefield and house. This medieval structure is largely what we view today. As with many
reburied by the west door in November 1920 as a tribute large churches of this period, the building took several hundred years to
to all who were killed in the war (below). complete, and the style of design varied as the work progressed. During
the reign and Reformation of Henry VIII, Westminster Abbey was spared
dissolution and destruction as he gave it cathedral status. After Henry’s
death, Mary I turned it back into a Catholic Benedictine Abbey. The
two western towers were finally added in 1745. These were designed by
Nicholas Hawksmoor, a student of Christopher Wren.
27
 1 Westminster Bridge 3 Whitehall Palace
Prior to 1750 there were only two Thames crossings in central London: the This large area of land from Westminster ll
Old London Bridge and the new Putney Bridge. The next was in Kingston- to Trafalgar Square has been built on by Whi
teha
upon-Thames, 22km away. Westminster Bridge, with its fifteen piers, was royalty, government and religious bodies over the past
built over the site of an ancient ford crossing. The Thames at that time was 800 years. It was, and still is, a hotchpotch of palaces,
much wider and shallower and at low water the river could be forded. The offices and houses that despite several attempts was
ferrymen, whose livelihoods depended upon the crossing point, lobbied hard never architecturally unified. The Banqueting Hall
to stop the bridge being built. However, the Parliamentary Act was passed on Whitehall (right), designed by Inigo Jones, has
and the ferrymen were compensated for their losses. Within a hundred years survived. It was through one of these windows that 3
the foundations of the first bridge were badly affected by water erosion and Charles I was taken to be executed in 1649.
tide. A replacement bridge was designed by Thomas Page with the architect
of the Houses of Parliament, Sir Charles Barry, as consultant. The bridge had
to blend in with its Gothic Revival neighbour. It was opened in 1862 on the
4 The Ministry of Defence
The cellars of Henry VIII are enclosed
forty-third birthday of Queen Victoria. The bridge is
within the basement of this building. In the
2 painted green to reflect the colour of the benches in
garden, there are steps created by Wren,
the House of Commons.
which led from the former palace to the
river before the Embankment was built.
2 Portcullis House
They are now 70m away from the river.
The Houses of Parliament have become too
small to accommodate the growing army of
Westminster assistants, secretaries and researchers that MPs
Underground and Lords require. In 2001 Portcullis House
Bridge S

opened across the road from Parliament. It Below: The Battle of Britain
provides office space for over 200 MPs. Monument on the Embankment.
t

Victoria Embankment

1 Westminster Pier

Westminster Bridge
28
 VICTORIA EMBANKMENT
Westminster Bridge – Hungerford Bridge 0.7km
The Embankment was built as part of the response to improve drastically the sewage
system of the capital and the flow of the Thames. A vast amount of human waste was
being discharged into the river via streams and ancient sewers. Cholera epidemics had
been rife in the early 1800s. Following the 1862 Parliamentary Act, Sir Joseph Bazalgette
(see page 30) was commissioned to overhaul London’s sewerage system. A huge series
Above: Banqueting Hall of interceptor sewers were created to prevent effluent from reaching the Thames.
The Victoria Embankment was part of this scheme. All the riverside buildings were
removed, including the Cannon Coal Wharf, to make way for the granite slabs
and broad boulevard that would become the Embankment that we now see.
Beneath the Embankment lie the Northern Low Level Sewer and the Circle and
4
District lines. As a result of this work the width of the river was
dramatically reduced.

Right: Charing Cross

station. Below:
Hungerford
Railway Bridge.
Horse Guards Ave

Queen Mary Steps

Whitehall Gardens

erland
Northumb
Ave
Victoria Embankment ON THE OTHER BANK
The former County
Hall page 82

The Boudica Statue

Located on Westminster Bridge and unveiled in 1902
(left), Boudica was leader of the Iceni tribe and organiser
of a revolt against the Roman occupation in ad 60.

ge
footbrid
29
 SIR JOSEPH BAZALGETTE
Not since the last glacier had the London Thames been so radically resculpted.
Although most of his work goes unseen, Sir Joseph Bazalgette was one of the great
Victorian civil engineers, contributing greatly to the health of Londoners.

A Stinking Capital London saw several cholera epidemics

Between 1801 and 1841, London’s
population had doubled to 2 million.
With such rapid growth came a major
sewage problem. Most human effluence,
factory waste and dead animals were
being deposited into streams and sewers
that ended up in the Thames. The vast
majority of Londoners who couldn’t
access safe, clean water, still extracted
their water from the Thames for drinking
and washing in. London also had, at
this time, over 200,000 cesspits. The
Thames shoreline in central London
consisted of mud banks of
sewage at low tide, which
stank in warm weather.
Clockwise from the
left: diseased fish in
the Thames. Sir Joseph
Bazalgette with sewer
pipe cross section. Plan of
the 1859 sewerage system.
Egyptian bench by the
Thames. Abbey Mills
Pumping Station.
in the earlier part of the nineteenth
century. In the 1849 outbreak 14,000
died from the infection. Dr John Snow,
following his research, showed that cholera
was water-borne and not air-borne as had
previously been thought. A water pump
in Broad Street (now Broadwick Street),
Soho, was shown to have been the source
of the local outbreak. The pump was only
a metre away from an old cesspit.
Even before the 1850s, many had
realised that untreated sewage could not
simply be dumped into the Thames. The
biblical scene painter John Martin had
proposed an interceptor sewer in the
earlier part of the nineteenth century.
However, there was great resistance from
owners of business properties lining the
river. In 1855, the Metropolitan Board
of Works was formed with the sole aim
of overhauling the sewage system. Joseph
Bazalgette was its chief engineer. Three
years later, following sittings of the
Commons being suspended as a result of
the vile stench emitting from the river, a
greater urgency was placed on cleaning up
30
the Thames. Paddle boats were unable to
navigate the river because of the density
of floating sewage. The minds of the MPs
became focused on acting to eradicate
the problem. Bazalgette proposed a huge
network of sewerage interceptor pipes.
The Interceptor Sewer
There were 160km of brick-lined, main
interceptor pipes built between 1859 and
1865 in London. These were fed by 725km
of mains sewers and many thousands
of kilometres of existing small local
sewers and streams. The network
would clear nearly 2 million
litres of sewage daily. Using
gravity, the sewage would
flow from west to east and
feed into the treatment works at Beckton,
north of the Thames and Crossness in the
south. Pumping stations were required
at certain points along the network, such
as at Grosvenor Road (see page 20) to lift
the sewage to a higher-level interceptor
pipe leading to Abbey Mills in Stratford.
It was thought that the sewage could be
safely disposed of on the ebb tide into the
estuary. The work for this massive task
was paid for by an increase in tax on coal
and wine.
In 1864, work began to create the
new Victoria Embankment between
Westminster and Blackfriars. The Thames
was being narrowed and canalised, to
improve the tidal flow and flush the river
more efficiently.
Above ground, the Victoria The Man who Chained Blackwall Tunnel and the Woolwich Free
Embankment provided a new low-level the River Ferry. Only his plans for the latter were
carriageway linking Westminster to the Bazalgette was not only responsible for accepted. He also developed plans for
City. Below this, an underground railway overhauling the antiquated sewage system; Charing Cross Road and Northumberland
line was also created alongside the sewer. he also created two other embankments Avenue. He was knighted in 1874 and died
It forms part of what is the District and a series of bridges. The Albert in 1891 in Wimbledon.
and Circle line today. Much of the Embankment, which opened in 1869, did His memorial can be found by
reclaimed land became gardens not carry an interceptor pipe but was built the riverbank looking sternly up
that line the river. The Victoria to protect Lambeth from flooding. Chelsea Northumberland Avenue. Inscribed are the
Embankment opened in 1870. Embankment did include an interceptor words ‘Flumini vincula posuit’
The vast granite shoreline sewage pipe. It opened in 1874. (He placed chains upon the
seemed fitting The bridges Bazalgette designed were river). This was a claim of the
for what was replacements for existing ones: Battersea pharaohs. It is not surprising
the heart of Bridge (1887), Putney Bridge (1886) and that the benches along the
the British Hammersmith Bridge (1890). He also Embankment feature designs
Empire. proposed plans for Tower Bridge, the of camels and sphinxes (right).
31
 Charing Cross station
This railway station stands on the site of the old Hungerford produce
market (1682–1862). Once the Old London Bridge was removed in 1831,
this used to include a fish market, as fishing boats could travel further
upstream to sell their catch. Charles Dickens, as a boy, worked in a
boot-blacking factory very close to the market.
2
1 Hungerford Rail Bridge
The original crossing here was a suspension
footbridge created by Isambard Kingdom Brunel
in 1845 to enable access to the Hungerford Market
from the south. However, the market struggled to
compete with its nearby rival in Covent Garden.
When it closed, the London and Brighton Railway
acquired the land to build a new station at Charing
Cross, and the bridge was removed to make way for
a stronger rail crossing. This was designed by the
1 engineer Sir John Hawkshaw and opened in
1864. As a testament to his engineering skills, They are also known as the Golden
it is still in use today. The low Jubilee bridges.
linear structure has few
Embankment
Hungerford foot and railway
bridges, with Charing Cross
Underground
ria Emba
station behind. Victo
The station opened in 1864 and brought rail travel
directly into the West End of London. In 1991 the
railway shed was completely redesigned and rebuilt
by architect Terry Farrell. It now includes office and
retail space above the station platforms.
2 York House Watergate
This portal (left), standing in the Victoria
Embankment Gardens, was created in 1626 and
once acted as a gate on to the river. Since the
Embankment was built, it now stands some 130m
away from the Thames.
Victoria Embankment Gardens
adornments and is not the most attractive. The
one saving feature of the bridge was the footpaths
that were added to each side of the rail bridge.
In 1996 plans were created by the architects
Lifschutz Davidson to revamp the footbridges and
in the process mask the ugly rail crossing. A series
of white cantilevered struts hold the cables that
carry the footbridges. They opened in 2002, and
offer great views of the river and the immediate
buildings and monuments lining the Thames.
3
nt
nkme
Embankment Pier
VICTORIA EMBANKMENT GARDENS
Hungerford Bridge – Waterloo Bridge 0.5km
Following Bazalgette’s embankment of the river, much of the reclaimed land was
turned into gardens. The most well known of these is Victoria Embankment
Gardens. Previously, many of the palaces and mansions in this area backed directly
on to the river. The wealthy owners – archbishops and aristocrats – were situated
halfway between the mercantile City of London and the religious and political
centre of Westminster, with the river offering the quickest
and safest route between the two. In December 1878,
Victoria Embankment became the first street in
4 The Savoy Hotel
The Count of Savoy was donated
Britain to be permanently lit by electricity.
land by the Thames by his relative
Henry III and in 1263 the Savoy
Palace was built. After its demolition
Right: Shell Mex House was the original London
headquarters for Shell Petroleum. The clockface during the Peasants Revolt in 1381,
‘Big Benzene’ is the largest in London. it became a hospital for the ‘poor
and needy’ of London. In 1880,
3 Cleopatra’s needle Richard D’Oyly Carte constructed
This 18m pink granite obelisk was a gift the Savoy Theatre to perform
S av Gilbert and Sullivan operas. The
from the Viceroy of Egypt to George IV in 1819 oy P
as a memorial to Admiral Nelson’s Battle of the Nile. It
lace profits from these productions
was not brought to London until 1878. On its journey six men enabled him to build the Savoy
died in the Bay of Biscay attempting to recover the ‘Needle’ after it 4 Hotel (above) adjacent to
broke free from the ship towing it. Despite its name, it was built for Pharaoh the theatre. It opened
Tuthmose III (in 1475 bc) and not for Cleopatra. in 1889 and was
the first hotel in
Victoria Embankment
the world to be
illuminated by
ON THE OTHER BANK electricity.
The Royal Festival Hall

ge
Brid
page 84

loo
ter
Wa
33
 TEMPLE 2 Temple
In the twelfth century this site was the
Waterloo Bridge – the river and to Westminster Hall
English headquarters of the powerful and Whitehall. This area
Blackfriars Bridge 1.0km
and influential Knights Templar. The has become the centre
The walk continues along the busy Victoria knights were actively involved in the
Middle Temple
of English law and a
Hall

Embankment and past the very heart of the
English legal profession. The curve in the
Thames offers some fantastic river views in
both directions and of the South Bank on the
opposite shore.
1
Crusades and protected pilgrims as
they journeyed to and from the Holy
Land. Following their disbandment in
1312 and later a prohibition against
the training of lawyers within the
City of London, the Temple became
home to the legal profession. The
Middle and Inner Temples today
form two of the four Inns of
Court. The Temple Stairs
provided the lawyers and
barristers with access to
v
great many barristers’
chambers and solicitors
offices are located here,
with the Royal Courts of
Justice to the north. Temple
is an anachronism sited within a
major world capital. This collection
of streets and parks shows very few
marks of the twenty-first century.
With little traffic, it has a quiet
serenity to it.

Temple Underground

1 Somerset House ON THE

In the sixteenth century, this area was OTHER
ent
km occupied by a Tudor palace, home to Edward Seymour, BANK:
a n
Emb OXO
oria
the Duke of Somerset. After his death in 1658, Oliver Cromwell’s
V i c t Tower
body lay in state here. Despite the palace’s renovation at the hands of Sir
page 87
Christopher Wren, by the 1770s the house was neglected and declined and was
eventually demolished. The current building, designed by William Chambers, opened in
1801 to house several government departments. The Admiralty offices were located on the riverfront
Wa

and boats could pass directly into the building (below left). Since the Embankment was created, the river gate is
te

now 40m away from the Thames. The gate can still be seen from the north footpath on Victoria Embankment.
rloo

The national Register of Births, Marriages and Deaths was established here in 1837, along with what was to
Bri

become the Inland Revenue. By the late twentieth century, most of the Government’s
dge

institutes had moved out. Today, Somerset House is home to the Courtauld Institute of
Art and the central courtyard is used for concerts and, in winter, ice skating.
34
 Hampstead Heath
3 Unilever House

Subter ranean River Fleet

vTemple Church
Camden Town This building stands on what was the old Bridewell Palace. The
curvature of Unilever House follows the original mouth of the

Riv
er
Regent’s Park Fle
et River Fleet as it enters the Thames.
v
InnerTemple
Hall .TH
AMES
4 The River Fleet
R
The River Fleet is probably London’s most
2
famous hidden river. Its source is some 8km to the north- 3 4
west on Hampstead Heath (above left). As the population
Inner Temple of London grew from the seventeenth century onwards,
Gardens the river became increasingly polluted as waste and
detritus were discarded into it. The lower part of the
fleet was briefly canalised but within a few decades the
pressure for more houses saw the river covered over.
The Fleet emerges under Blackfriars Bridge and the
sluice gate can only be viewed only at low tide.
Victoria Embankment

Temple Stairs
5 Blackfriars Bridge
The first bridge, which opened in 1769, was designed by the
5
Viaduct some 350m to the north of the bridge. In 1907 it was
young and inexperienced architect Robert Mylne. It was an widened to carry yet more traffic and is still the widest of all the
Italianate-style crossing, with ten piers, inspired by Mylne’s London bridges. In 1982 the Italian banker
teacher Piranesi. In 1831, the demolition of the Old London Roberto Calvi was found hanging under
Bridge caused the upstream river speed to increase, which the bridge (see page 103).
damaged the piers of Blackfriars Bridge. By the mid-1800s the
bridge was not wide enough to cope with the growing traffic of Below: Blackfriars Bridge.
central London. Joseph Cubitt, who had designed the adjacent Right: A detail of a pier.
rail bridge, was appointed to create the new Blackfriars Bridge.
The ebb and flow of the river dictated the five piers of the
replacement bridge had to correspond to those of the
rail bridge. The bridge was opened in 1869 by Queen
Victoria, on the same day she opened Holborn
 1 The Black Friar
This narrow wedge of brick and marble (left)
is a public house that was erected in 1883
and was redesigned by H. Fuller Clark in
1905 in the Arts and Crafts style. More than
fifty types of marble line the interior with
carved friezes of monks at work (above). The
pub sits on the former site of a Dominican
1 friary. The monks were noted for their black
cloaks worn over their habits, hence the name
Black Friars. It was possibly here in 1528
that a meeting took place of the Papal
delegation and Henry VIII to discuss
Blackfriars his divorce from Catherine of Aragon:
Station a process that would ultimately see
England breaking away from the
Roman Catholic church.
s Whit
e rpas
Und
BlackRailway
2 St Paul’s Cathedral
The current structure was designed in the restrained English
Baroque style by Sir Christopher Wren and constructed between
1675 and 1711. The Portland stone-clad cathedral and its dome
would come to dominate and symbolise the London skyline for
centuries. At 111m high, it was the tallest building in London until
it was superseded by Millbank Tower (page 23) in 1963. The dome
and lantern, inspired by St Peter’s Basilica in Rome, are open to
the public and provide great views over the capital. The cathedral’s
predecessor had been destroyed by the Great Fire in 1666, and
had a spire that was 149m high until it was destroyed by lightning
in 1561. St Paul’s largely survived the aerial bombardment of the
Second World War, though it is possible the German Luftwaffe
used the cathedral for navigational purposes. The funerals of
Lord Horatio Nelson, The Duke of Wellington, and Sir Winston
Churchill all took place here. Fittingly, Wren is buried within his
own cathedral, with a tomb inscription in Latin that translates as:
‘Reader, if you seek his monument, look around you.’
Right: The City of London School
Left: The Mermaid London
ll
Hi
on
e Li ON THE
OTHER

friars
and

BANK
Blackf

B l a c k
Tate
friar Brid

Modern
riars B

Blackfriars Pier page 90

s sta ge
tion
ridge

36
 ST PAUL’S
Blackfriars Bridge – Southwark Bridge 0.9km
The Thames Path finally departs the dual carriageway and continues along the
bend in the river without the roar of Embankment traffic. Once the steps of the
Millennium Bridge are reached, the dome of the great cathedral, St Paul’s is
finally revealed, between an architectural canyon.

3 St James Garlickhythe Church

This is yet another church designed by Wren following the Great Fire of London. It
was consecrated in 1682 and became known as ‘Wren’s Lantern’, as the design allowed
so much light to enter the church. In the Middle Ages it had been used by pilgrims as a
stopping off point en route to Santiago da Compostela in Spain. The name Garlickhythe
is taken from the once nearby landing stages for garlic and wine from France. The
church houses the 300-year-old mummified remains of an unknown
3
person referred to as ‘Jimmy Garlick’, though he is
Footbridge
et
no longer on public display.
ha mes Stre
Upper T 5 Vintners Hall
r St A Vintners’ Hall has stood on
High Timbe
this site since 1446. The Vintners
were a powerful liveried company
Broken Wf

who controlled the import and

2 export of wine into and out of
England. They were one
of the twelve
4 great liveried
companies of
London.
Millennium Br

4 Queenhithe

rk Bridge
This small dock was created sometime prior to ad 890 and was originally the landing 5
place of Aethelred, son-in-law of King Alfred. It was named Queenhithe after Queen
Matilda, wife of Henry I, in 1237. (A ‘hithe’ is a landing place or port.) Although the

Southwa
dock is still preserved, during the 1970s sadly permission was given to demolish the
idge

old wharf buildings and a hotel was constructed in its place.

37
 WALBROOK
Southwark Bridge – London Bridge 0.5km
The walk, well away from motor traffic, passes close to the heart of the City of London and over
a small river that contributed to the founding of the capital city. However very little remains of
an earlier waterside London along this part of the path.

2 River Walbrook 3 Walbrook Wharf

All that is visible of the Walbrook, as it A working wharf is a rarity
enters the Thames, is a metal drain cover in London. This wharf,
and a stone chute: a modest tribute to the owned by the Corporation
stream that is partially responsible for the of London, ships over 3

Subter ranean River Walbrook

foundation of London. The Walbrook million tonnes of refuse
is the shortest London river and runs from the City in containers
between Ludgate Hill, on which St Paul’s Above: River Walbrook sluice gate. downstream to an energy
Queen St Place

Cathedral now sits and Cornhill to the east. conversion plant in Bexley.
It is probably one of the major reasons why The path is closed when
the Romans chose to build a settlement containers are being
on this location. The source of the river is loaded and unloaded.
about 2km to the north-east in Shoreditch
and is now culverted for its entire length.

2 3

1 1 Southwark Bridge
By the 1810s the traffic over 4
London and Blackfriars Bridge was so
great that a new bridge was needed to alleviate the pressure. John Rennie, who also designed
London and Waterloo bridges in the early nineteenth century, was commissioned to create a
new bridge across the Thames to connect the City with Southwark. It was a three-span cast-iron
Cannon Street
construction and was the first London bridge to be illuminated with gas lights. It
Railway Bridge
opened in 1819 and, like many other bridges, a toll was charged. Just over
100 years later in 1921, a wider replacement bridge was created
that would allow trams to cross over. It is now the least-used
bridge in central London.
38
 5 Fishmongers Hall Monument Underground
The Worshipful Company of
Fishmongers has been in existence for
over 700 years and located on this site by
London Bridge since 1434. It controlled
the number of fishing
boats unloading catches
in the City and the price

King William Street

of fish. Although today
4 Cannon Street Station
it manages a property
This station, designed by Sir John Hawkshaw and Sir John
portfolio and is an
Wolfe Barry (who also built Hungerford and Blackfriars
educational charity, it
rail bridges respectively), was opened in 1866 on the site of
still supports research
the Roman Governor’s Palace. It brought the railway into
into matters relating
the City of London. The twin towers facing the river were
to fish and fishing in
‘a tribute’ to the church spires created by Wren and they
the UK. Probably its
held water tanks to operate the station’s hydraulic lifts. The
rail bridge was originally named after the Danish Princess
most famous member was Sir William Fishmongers 5
Walworth, the Mayor of London, Hall Wharf
Alexandra, who married Edward, Prince of Wales, in
who in 1381 killed Wat Tyler and
1863. A pedestrian footbridge was originally added, though
ended the Peasants’ Revolt.
this was later removed and never restored. Following
damage during the Second World War, the station was
rebuilt in the 1960s. A decade later the bridge was reduced
All that
in width and the original bridge replaced.
remains of the Old
Swan Pier are these
wooden stumps,

London Bridge
visible only at
ON THE low water.
OTHER BANK
Southwark
Cathedral
page 93

39
Christopher Wren was born in Wiltshire
in 1632, just ten years before the
outbreak of the English Civil War.
His father was Dean of Windsor and
had clear Royalist connections, which
placed the family in some danger. The
young Wren was packed off to study
at Wadham College, Oxford, as the
town had become the royal court and
stronghold. By the age of eighteen,
Wren had gained his first degree. Six
years later he had become Professor
of Astronomy at Gresham College,
London. Wren, the polymath, was also
studying mechanics, philosophy, anatomy
and geometry.
In 1660, following the end of
the Civil War, and advent of the
Restoration, the Royal
Society was formed for
1 2
the advancement of scientific knowledge.
Wren was among its founder members,
and twenty years later would become it
president. It was at this time that Wren
began to take an interest in architecture.
He received a commission from his uncle
for a new chapel at Pembroke College,
Cambridge, and from Gilbert Sheldon,
the Warden of All Souls, Oxford, to
design a structure as a parting gift to
the college. In his capacity of Bishop
of London, Sheldon also commissioned
Wren to produce a plan to restore the
crumbling, Gothic St Paul’s Cathedral.
Influenced by an extended trip to Paris,
where Wren saw several new church
domes and met numerous influential
architects, he
submitted his
proposals just a
3 4
week before the Great Fire of London in
September 1666 (see page 42).
The Great Fire saw two thirds of
the City razed to the ground. Wren was
soon appointed as one of three Royal
Commissioners to oversee the rebuilding
of London. In this role he rapidly drew
up Baroque plans for a new City, with
streets radiating from piazzas, and even
the canalisation of the River Fleet. Too
much vested interest, however, saw that
these plans never received Royal Assent.
Within the City, eighty-seven
churches had been destroyed, of which
fifty-two were scheduled to be rebuilt. Ten
years after the fire, Wren was overseeing
twenty-six church rebuilds, including St
Paul’s. Much of the rebuilding was paid
for by a tax of one shilling (5p) placed
on each tonne of coal shipped into the
5 6
City. Wren was assisted in this mammoth
undertaking by Robert Hooke and
Edward Woodroffe. He was very reliant
upon their architectural expertise and
organisation. In his later working years,
he had John Vanbrugh and Nicholas
Hawksmoor as assistants. These groups
worked closely with the masons, stone
cutters and carpenters in the day-to-day
running of the projects. Wren had gone
from enthusiastic amateur to master
architect, with the Great Fire acting as
the catalyst.
In 1669, Wren was appointed as
Surveyor of the King’s Works. This
included all the royal palaces, including
Hampton Court, Windsor, Chelsea,
Kensington, Whitehall, and Greenwich,
nearly all of which were connected by the
Thames. Wren would go on to oversee
7 8 9 10
SIR CHRISTOPHER WREN
Wren is one of the most famous British architects. For 300 years, his work
dominated the skyline of London, with a sea of church spires, a cathedral
and a column.
many developments of these structures (see
pages 18 and 110). In 1673 he was knighted
for his services.
Even as the foundations were being
laid for the new St Paul’s Cathedral,
the final details including the prospect
of a dome, were still being discussed by
craftsmen, architects, the church, and the
king.
The stone for the cathedral, mainly
from the Isle of Portland, was brought
up the Thames by ship. The construction
of the dome itself was dogged with
problems. However, Wren felt it was
vital to complete this section early as
11 12
41
an advertisement that would attract
interest and funding for the rest of
the project. It took thirty-five years to
complete the cathedral. Wren is only one
of a very few architects to have overseen
the entire construction of a cathedral
within his own lifetime. The dome of
St Paul’s would influence the design of
many other structures, including the US
Capitol, Washington DC.
Wren was married twice, and
produced four children. He outlived both
his wives and died at the age of ninety-
one. He is buried within the crypt of St
Paul’s Cathedral.
Wren’s cathedral, monument and a few churches.
Left to right:
(Sir Christopher Wren) al floor
athedr
1 St Michael Paternoster Royal
au l’s C
2 St Martin-within-Ludgate l: St P
tai
3 St Benet De
4 St James Garlickhythe
5 St Margaret Lothbury
6 St Magnus the Martyr
7 St Paul’s Cathedral
8 St Clement Danes
9 St Stephen Walbrook
10 The Monument
11 St Margaret Patten
12 St Mary Abchurch
 The Great Fire of London 1 St Magnus the Martyr 2 The
During the drought of 1666, the 2 The original church, founded in the eleventh century on Monument
very closely packed, tinder-dry reclaimed land, was, like so many in the area, destroyed This Doric
wooden buildings with thatched by the Great Fire of London and later redesigned by column, with its
roofs became extremely vulnerable Sir Christopher Wren in 1676. The church’s tower is 311 steps to the
to fire. The Great Fire started in a considered to be one of his finest. Thomas Farriner, top, is 61m high
baker’s shop on Pudding Lane on owner of the Pudding Lane bakery, was a church and 61m away

Fish St Hill
2 September 1666 and blazed for warden of St Magnus and was buried within what was from Pudding
four days. The Mayor of London, a temporary church in 1670. St Magnus the Martyr Lane, the starting
Sir Thomas Bloodworth’s sat beside the approach road to the Old London point of the Great
indecisiveness in creating fire Bridge and was the first church available to travellers Fire of London.
breaks by demolishing houses and pilgrims to the City from the south. However, in It was designed
resulted in much of the City 1831 the bridge was rebuilt 30m upstream. An by Wren and
being destroyed, and at least annual blessing of the Thames takes place each Robert Hook to
70,000 Londoners were left homeless. year in January, commemorate
During the Fire, many City residents with the clergy the fire and all
were evacuated across the river by boat, and parishioners who died in it.
as London Bridge of St Magnus It is the tallest
too was engulfed in and Southwark free-standing
flames. The death Cathedral meeting stone column
toll was reported halfway across in the world.
to be extremely London Bridge.
low, though the
deaths of working 1 Route to St Magnus and
and middle class people were ON THE
The Monument
OTHER BANK
simply not recorded. Despite the
St Olaf House
ambitious intentions of several Left: Steps page 96
city planners of the period, the
London Bridge

up to a raised
new street plan of the viewing area
Above: Adelaide House, built City mirrored closely that overlooking the
in 1925. of pre-Fire London. Thames.
3 The Old Billingsgate
Fish Market
This former fish market was
located here in the Pool of London
for over 950 years. Fish would
be unloaded onto the wharf and
processed for despatch. During
the nineteenth century the market
was rebuilt three times to increase
the market’s capacity to handle
ever-larger quantities of fish to
feed the burgeoning metropolis.
The final development on this
site, in 1877, was designed in an
Italianate style by Horace Jones
(who would later design Tower
Bridge). The author George Orwell
worked at the market during the
1930s. The introduction of the
railways and refrigeration saw the
gradual decline of fish arriving
by river. The market moved, in
1982, to a new location in Canary
Wharf, East London. The old fish
market building is now used as an
exhibition and conference
centre.
3
4 Custom House
There has been a Custom House on this site
POOL OF LONDON
London Bridge – Water Lane
since Romans times. The creation of London
0.5km (excluding the Monument
Bridge created a barrier beyond which sea
going vessels could not pass. So the location detour) The walk, still away from traffic,
of an import office downstream from the continues through the City and passes
crossing became vital for collecting duty the site of the Old London Bridge. A few
on behalf of the monarch. The Customs of the quayside buildings here remain
and Excise Boards also attempted to thwart as they would have appeared a hundred
smuggling and seize contraband. Such was years ago. In 1666, all the property north
its value to the Exchequer that the structure of the river was erased by the Great Fire
was one of the first to be rebuilt following the of London. The Monument, a memorial
Great Fire of London. Unsurprisingly, given
to the fire and all who died, is worth
the amount of combustible materials, such
a detour up its spiral staircase to the
as alcohol and gunpowder, that were seized
viewing platform.
and stored here, the building was prone to
fire. Wren’s design burned down in 1715.
The 1828 rebuild by Sir Robert Smirke, complete with fireproof rooms, survives to the present
day, despite heavy bombing in 1940. The grandest side of the building, of Portland Stone,
faces onto the river. The advent of larger ships and containerisation
Below left: The Old
Billingsgate Market hall in the 1960s and 1970s, saw the decline of merchant shipping on
and detail of the piscine the Thames and the traditional role of Custom House. However
weather vane. the building is still used as offices for HM Revenue & Customs.
Water Lane
43
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
 PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK

To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free

distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work (or
any other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project
Gutenberg”), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full
Project Gutenberg™ License available with this file or online at
www.gutenberg.org/license.

Section 1. General Terms of Use and

Redistributing Project Gutenberg™
electronic works
1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg™
electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree
to and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all
the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or
destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in your
possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a
Project Gutenberg™ electronic work and you do not agree to be
bound by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from
the person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in
paragraph 1.E.8.

1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be

used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people
who agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a
few things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg™ electronic
works even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.
See paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with
Project Gutenberg™ electronic works if you follow the terms of this
agreement and help preserve free future access to Project
Gutenberg™ electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below.
1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the
Foundation” or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the
collection of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. Nearly all the
individual works in the collection are in the public domain in the
United States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in
the United States and you are located in the United States, we do
not claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing,
performing, displaying or creating derivative works based on the
work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of
course, we hope that you will support the Project Gutenberg™
mission of promoting free access to electronic works by freely
sharing Project Gutenberg™ works in compliance with the terms of
this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg™ name
associated with the work. You can easily comply with the terms of
this agreement by keeping this work in the same format with its
attached full Project Gutenberg™ License when you share it without
charge with others.

1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also
govern what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most
countries are in a constant state of change. If you are outside the
United States, check the laws of your country in addition to the terms
of this agreement before downloading, copying, displaying,
performing, distributing or creating derivative works based on this
work or any other Project Gutenberg™ work. The Foundation makes
no representations concerning the copyright status of any work in
any country other than the United States.

1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:

1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other

immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg™ License must
appear prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg™
work (any work on which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or
with which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” is associated) is
accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, copied or distributed:
 This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United
States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away
or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License
included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you
are not located in the United States, you will have to check the
laws of the country where you are located before using this
eBook.

1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is derived

from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not contain a
notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the copyright
holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in the
United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are
redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase “Project
Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on the work, you must
comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through
1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project
Gutenberg™ trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.

1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is posted

with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any
additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms
will be linked to the Project Gutenberg™ License for all works posted
with the permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of
this work.

1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project

Gutenberg™ License terms from this work, or any files containing a
part of this work or any other work associated with Project
Gutenberg™.

1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this

electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
Gutenberg™ License.
1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form,
including any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you
provide access to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg™ work
in a format other than “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in
the official version posted on the official Project Gutenberg™ website
(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense
to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means
of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original “Plain
Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format must include the
full Project Gutenberg™ License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.

1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,

performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg™ works
unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.

1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing

access to or distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works
provided that:

• You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
the use of Project Gutenberg™ works calculated using the
method you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The
fee is owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark,
but he has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to
the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty
payments must be paid within 60 days following each date on
which you prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your
periodic tax returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked
as such and sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
Foundation at the address specified in Section 4, “Information
about donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
Foundation.”

• You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who

notifies you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that
s/he does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™
License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all
 copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and
discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of Project
Gutenberg™ works.

• You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of

any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in
the electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90
days of receipt of the work.

• You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
distribution of Project Gutenberg™ works.

1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg™

electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of
the Project Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set
forth in Section 3 below.

1.F.

1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend

considerable effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe
and proofread works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating
the Project Gutenberg™ collection. Despite these efforts, Project
Gutenberg™ electronic works, and the medium on which they may
be stored, may contain “Defects,” such as, but not limited to,
incomplete, inaccurate or corrupt data, transcription errors, a
copyright or other intellectual property infringement, a defective or
damaged disk or other medium, a computer virus, or computer
codes that damage or cannot be read by your equipment.

1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except

for the “Right of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph
1.F.3, the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner
of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party
distributing a Project Gutenberg™ electronic work under this
agreement, disclaim all liability to you for damages, costs and
expenses, including legal fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO
REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT LIABILITY, BREACH OF
WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE
FOUNDATION, THE TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY
DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE LIABLE
TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL,
PUNITIVE OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE
NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGE.

1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you

discover a defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it,
you can receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by
sending a written explanation to the person you received the work
from. If you received the work on a physical medium, you must
return the medium with your written explanation. The person or entity
that provided you with the defective work may elect to provide a
replacement copy in lieu of a refund. If you received the work
electronically, the person or entity providing it to you may choose to
give you a second opportunity to receive the work electronically in
lieu of a refund. If the second copy is also defective, you may
demand a refund in writing without further opportunities to fix the
problem.

1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth in
paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS’, WITH NO
OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED,
INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF
MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.

1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied

warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted
by the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any
provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the
Foundation, the trademark owner, any agent or employee of the
Foundation, anyone providing copies of Project Gutenberg™
electronic works in accordance with this agreement, and any
volunteers associated with the production, promotion and distribution
of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works, harmless from all liability,
costs and expenses, including legal fees, that arise directly or
indirectly from any of the following which you do or cause to occur:
(a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg™ work, (b)
alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any Project
Gutenberg™ work, and (c) any Defect you cause.

Section 2. Information about the Mission of

Project Gutenberg™
Project Gutenberg™ is synonymous with the free distribution of
electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of
computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.
It exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and
donations from people in all walks of life.

Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the

assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg™’s
goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg™ collection will
remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project
Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a
secure and permanent future for Project Gutenberg™ and future
generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help,
see Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at
www.gutenberg.org.

Section 3. Information about the Project

Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit
501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
Revenue Service. The Foundation’s EIN or federal tax identification
number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state’s laws.

The Foundation’s business office is located at 809 North 1500 West,

Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up
to date contact information can be found at the Foundation’s website
and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact

Section 4. Information about Donations to

the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
Foundation
Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without
widespread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can
be freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the
widest array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small
donations ($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax
exempt status with the IRS.

The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating

charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and
keep up with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in
locations where we have not received written confirmation of
compliance. To SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of
compliance for any particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate.

While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where

we have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no
prohibition against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in
such states who approach us with offers to donate.

International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make

any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.

Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation
methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of
other ways including checks, online payments and credit card
donations. To donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate.

Section 5. General Information About Project

Gutenberg™ electronic works
Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project
Gutenberg™ concept of a library of electronic works that could be
freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and
distributed Project Gutenberg™ eBooks with only a loose network of
volunteer support.

Project Gutenberg™ eBooks are often created from several printed

editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in
the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not
necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper
edition.

Most people start at our website which has the main PG search
facility: www.gutenberg.org.

This website includes information about Project Gutenberg™,

including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how
to subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.