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Garlic Production
Garlic Production
Agdex#: 258/13
Publication Date: March 2009
Order#: 09-011w
Last Reviewed: March 2009
History: Replaces Factsheet 97-007
Written by: J Allen
In Ontario, garlic, a cool-season crop, is planted in the fall and harvested the following
summer. This Factsheet provides information on the types of garlic grown in Ontario,
garlic production from planting to storage, and pest control and weed management.
Garlic (Allium sativum) belongs to the Alliaceae family, the same family as onions,
shallots and leeks. The majority of Ontario-grown garlic is sold to the fresh market as
whole, fresh bulbs, green garlic or scapes. Processed products such as garlic
spreads or chopped garlic are also sold, but to a lesser extent.
Types
There are two types of garlic grown in Ontario - hardneck and softneck. Hardneck
varieties (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) bolt during late spring/early summer,
producing a tall, flower stalk or scape (Figure 1). Bulbils, which are small aerial
cloves, are produced at the tip of scapes in place of a true flower. There is
considerable variability in the size and number of bulbils produced by hardneck
garlic. Bulbils may be used as planting stock, but require 2 or more years of growth to
develop into marketable bulbs. Softneck varieties (A. sativum var. sativum) do not
produce a scape. A general rule of thumb is that hardneck varieties are more winter
hardy, produce larger cloves but have a shorter storage life than softneck varieties.
Hardneck garlic can produce anywhere from 4-12 cloves per bulb. Varieties grown in
Ontario include Rocambole, Porcelain and Purple Stripe. Softneck garlic varieties
produce an average of 8-12 cloves/bulb - 5-6 cloves per bulb in northern areas and
40 or more per bulb in warmer, southern climates. Softneck varieties grown in
Ontario include Silverskin and Artichoke (e.g., Asiatic and Turban).
Planting
Garlic is a perennial plant that requires a cold period to initiate growth. In Ontario,
garlic is grown as a winter annual - planted in the fall and harvested the following
summer. Although fall planting is recommended, it is possible to plant in the spring.
Place planting stock in cold storage prior to planting to allow proper bulb
development.
It is critical that garlic not be planted too early or too late in the fall. Planting depth is
also important. If planted too early or not deep enough, there is a risk that shoots will
emerge above the soil surface and be prone to winter injury. If planted too late, there
is a risk that cloves will not develop adequate root systems and will not be winter
hardy. It is also important that cloves are planted with the pointed side up. Although
cloves planted upside down will develop, they often have a curved shoot and
misshapen bulbs.
A strong, well-established overwintering plant will rapidly develop shoot growth
during spring as soil and air temperatures increase. With adequate moisture and
nutrition, a large plant will develop before bulbing takes place.
Store healthy seed stock as whole bulbs until shortly before planting, since cloves
separated from the parent bulb deteriorate more rapidly than whole bulbs. Dry bulbs
are more easily broken apart into cloves than damp bulbs. Garlic can be cracked by
hand or mechanical devices. However, there is greater potential for physical damage
to cloves when mechanically cracked. Some mechanical planting equipment requires
that cloves be graded into sizes or weight ranges for improved planting efficiency.
The amount of planting material required will vary from 700-1,000 kg/ha, depending
upon the weight of individual cloves planted and the spacing used. Space plants 7-12
cm apart in the row. Cloves of small-bulbed strains (e.g., Artichoke) may be planted
as close as 7 cm apart, while large-bulbed strains (e.g., Porcelain) can require as
much as 12 cm between plants. Spacing between rows will depend on the method of
planting and available equipment for cultivation. Single or multiple rows of plants are
commonly used with spacing of at least 20 cm between rows.
Over the past few years, some Ontario growers have experimented with planting
bulbils. Bulbils, or aerial cloves, are contained within a capsule within the top portion
of the scape. Depending on variety, capsules may contain from four to a few hundred
bulbils (Figures 2 and 3).
Irrigation
Garlic is sensitive to moisture stress throughout the growing season. Periods of dry
soil conditions, especially during bulbing, will result in yield reductions.
For most soils, approximately 2.5 cm of water per week is required during the
growing season. In sandy soils, however, 5.0 cm or more of water may be required
during hot, dry weather conditions.
The preferred time of irrigation is morning to mid-afternoon, thus allowing sufficient
time for the plant foliage to dry before nightfall. Stop irrigating when garlic becomes
mature and ready to harvest. This will increase harvesting ease and reduce the
potential deterioration and staining of exterior bulb sheath leaves.
Scape Removal
Hardneck varieties produce a scape. Research has shown that when the scape is left
on the plant, bulb yields can be decreased by as much as 30%, because energy is
diverted to bulbil production rather than bulb sizing. Remove scapes by pulling,
breaking or cutting just after curling but before they straighten out (Figure 5).
Harvest
Bulbs continue to size during late spring and summer until the leaves of the plant
begin to dry, turning tan brown from the tips toward the base of the leaves. Begin
harvesting when 30%-50% of the leaves have died back. Garlic bulbs harvested too
early may be immature and tend to shrivel when cured, while late harvested bulbs
may have stained, partially decayed wrapper leaves and/or exposed cloves.
Small plantings of garlic are often hand harvested with the aid of a fork to loosen the
soil and facilitate lifting. Larger plantings are normally mechanically harvested using
a tractor drawn blade that loosens the soil under the bulbs. A mechanized system
can be used to lift the bulbs, remove the tops and separate the dirt and trash.
Cure garlic once harvested. Curing is the process of drying the bulb to help increase
storage life by minimizing microbial and fungal infection and water loss. Leave
harvested garlic in the field to cure for a couple of days or remove it from the field
immediately and cure it in storage. To cure garlic in the field, place plants in covered,
slotted vegetable bins and allow natural air drying. To cure in storage, tie 10-15
plants into a bundle and hang to dry in a well-ventilated area or use forced air to dry
the bulbs. Once cured, trim or remove garlic tops and roots and place the bulbs in
slotted bins, on wired racks, or on open trays in a well-ventilated building.
Similar to bulbs, bulbils must be cured prior to storage. Harvest scapes with the
bulbil capsule intact just prior to garlic bulb harvest. Once harvested, bunch, tie and
hang scapes to dry for a few weeks. Once dried, remove the bulbil capsules and store
them in a dry location until time of planting.
Storage
Storage conditions depend on the end use. Garlic for consumption (table stock) can
be stored differently than garlic for planting stock. Garlic for table stock is best
stored at 0°C-4°C with a relative humidity of 60%-70%. Avoid storing in higher
humidity, as it creates an excellent environment for penicillium mould and root
growth. Table stock stored at room temperature may dehydrate faster. Store garlic
intended for planting stock at anywhere from 10°C to room temperature with
60%-70% relative humidity.
At room temperature, hardneck varieties can be stored up to 4 months; softneck
varieties up to 8 months. In temperature and humidity controlled conditions, storage
life can be increased to 6-7 months for Rocamboles, 8-10 months for Porcelains and
over 12 months for softneck types.
Figure 8. Underdeveloped garlic bulb; absence of roots on one side of basal plate is
an indicator of stem and bulb nematode infection.
White Rot
White rot is a soil-borne fungal disease that can survive as sclerotia in infected fields
for decades. It is a serious concern, particularly in cool, wet growing seasons.
Symptoms of white rot of garlic include a yellowing, wilting and toppling over of older
leaves, watery bulbs and the presence of a fluffy, white mycelium and pinhead-sized
black sclerotia, as well as rotted roots. Because sclerotia and mycelium overwinter in
soil and plant debris, thorough cleaning of field equipment and proper disposing of
cull garlic is important in preventing the spread of white rot to uncontaminated fields.
Viruses
Virtually all sources of garlic contain viruses, though most are latent (dormant).
Latent garlic viruses may not become visible or reduce yields until the garlic plant is
stressed or growth is interrupted. The most common symptoms of virus infection are
colour changes of the leaves. These include mosaics, flecking, streaking and
mottling. Leaf shape distortion may also occur.
Weed Management
Garlic is a weak competitor against vigorous weeds. Weed management is essential
and can be undertaken by cultivation, hand hoeing, mulching or with herbicide
applications. Avoid deep cultivation close to the plants, as root damage and
subsequent yield losses may occur. For up-to-date weed control information, consult
OMAFRA Publication 75, Guide to Weed Control.
Resources
E-mail: ag.info.omafra@ontario.ca