Uster Tester

Uster Unevenness Tester
1
2
Principle of Uster Evenness Tester
Fig. Capacitive measuring system. The mass variation of the sliver, roving and yarn in
converted into an electrical signal.
3
4
5
Measuring Principle
(Capacitive monitoring of yarn mass variation)
This instrument is used for measuring the evenness of fibre assembly such as
slivers, rovings and yarns based on capacitance principle.
A high-frequency electric field is generated in the sensor slot between
a pair of capacitor plates. If the mass (wt/unit length) of fibre
assembly between the capacitor plate changes, the electrical signal is
altered and the output signal of the sensor changes accordingly. The
change in capacitance depends upon (i) mass variation, (ii) dielectric
constant (non-conductivity) of the fibre, and (iii) the moisture of fibre.
However, the electrical signal is amplified by amplifier and the
amplified signal is led to the transducer (Transducer: a device
producing an electrical impulse from another source of energy). The
transducer introduces analog signal that is converted into digital signal
directly by the Uster Tester computer.
6
Measuring Principle
𝐶ℎ𝑎𝑟𝑔𝑒 (𝑄)
N.B. (i) Capacitance, C = , if charge is remained constant,
𝑉𝑜𝑙𝑡𝑎𝑔𝑒 (𝑉)
then capacitance (C) varies with changing voltage (V).
(ii) Transducer: a device for converting a signal from one medium of
transmission to another. As for example, the electrical energy converts
to mechanical energy in ceiling fan.
7
Measuring Principle
A diagram is an important part of evenness tester. It contains a large

amount of information which cannot be provided by the spectrogram,
by the U/CV-value or by the counting of imperfections. The diagram is
especially valuable for the detection of the following faults:
 seldom occurring events
 long-term variation
 extreme thick and thin places
 randomly occurring thick and thin places
 slow changes in the mean value
 periodic mass variations wavelengths longer than 100 m (can not
be detected by the spectrogram).
8
Measuring Principle
Marking of the diagram: Sliver 12.5% or 25%

Roving 25% or 50%
Yarns 100%
Cut length: 1 cm (normal diagram) (scale 100%)

1 m (scale  20%)
10 m (scale  20%) (Short-term variations will be averaged out in
case of longer cut length)
9
Fig. Normal mass diagram
10
Fig. 10 m cut length diagram, scale ±20%
11
12
Fig. 1 cm cut length diagram (Normal mass diagram), scale ±100%
13
Calculation of the mass variation
(Irregularity U and Coefficient of variation CV)
For a complete analysis of the quality of fibre assembly, along with

mass diagram, a numerical value of mass variation is also
necessary. Mathematically it is done by
 the unevenness (U) and
 the coefficient of variation (CV)
14
Unevenness (Um%)
Adev
U%   100%
Atot
15
Coefficient of Variation (CV)
The mass variation can be considered to be a normal distribution.

The standard deviation (S) is the basis from which the CV-value is
derived. If a histogram is drawn from the mass variations, the
standard deviation ‘S’ corresponds with the distance from the mean
value to the point of inflexion of the normal distribution curve. In
order to calculate the coefficient of variation, the standard deviation
must be divided by the mean value.
16
Mathematically,
S =  nx 1x in case of number of data above 100, it will be n.
2
i
S
CV = X 100%
x
 x  x 
2
1
CV = i
X 100%
x n 1
__ __ __ __
s
( x1  x)  ( x 2  x)  .....  ( x n  x)
2 2 2

 i x
( x  ) 2
n 1 n 1
___
x1  x 2  x3  .......  x n  xi
x  
n n 17
Relation between U and CV
It can be considered that if the fiber assembly

required to be tested is normally distributed with
respect to its mass variation, a conversion possibility
is available between the two types of calculation
according to the following:
𝐶𝑉𝑚 𝜋
= = 1.25 or CVm = 1.25 × Um
𝑈𝑚 2
18
When mass variation is distributed symmetrically, is

single peaked, and tends towards normal
distribution, the conversion factor 1.25 can be used.
This mass variation can be expected with fault-free
fibre assemblies.
CVm = 1.25 × Um%
19
Limiting Irregularity and Index of Irregularity
Fig. Diagram with normal distribution
20
When the mass variation has two or more peaks due to

long wave-length variation, frequent thick places,
instantaneous changes in mean values etc,or, when the
mass variation is distributed asymmetrically and with
single peak (assemblies with frequent & accentuated
thick places), then CVm >1.25×Um.
21
Fig. Diagram with asymmetrical distribution
22
Distributions are symmetrical, but deviate from the normal

distribution (regular variations), i.e., strong periodic mass
variation, then CVm < 1.25×Um
Fig. Diagram with long mass jumps
23
Limiting Irregularity and Index of Irregularity
The minimum irregularity that must be expected from even an ideal

yarn with random fibre ends distribution. The limiting irregularity is
also expressed as a CV value, denoted as CVlim here. Early works in
this area have derived the following very important expressions for the
limiting irregularity of various yarns with random fibre ends
distribution.
Limiting irregularity of an ideal yarn without fibre variability:

100
CV lim  %
n
where n is the mean number of fibres in the cross-section
Yarn linear density (tex)

Number of fibres in yarn cross sec tion 
Fibre linear density (tex)
24
Limit Irregularity and Index of Irregularity
To calculate the limiting irregularity of cotton fibre assemblies.

106
CV lim  (%)
n
These expressions indicate that the number of fibres in yarn cross
section is overwhelmingly the most important factor that determines
the irregularity of a yarn. Irregularity increases with a reduction in the
number of fibres in yarn cross section. The fibre variability also has
some effect on the irregularity value. But different fibre types vary
considerably in terms of fibre variability.
Yarn linear density (tex)

Number of fibres in yarn cross sec tion 
Fibre linear density (tex)
25
Limit Irregularity for blended yarn
The count of the blend yarn= Tb
The blend ratio of fibre component = Pi
The count of each component = Ti
Then it can be worked out according to the formula below:
Tb  Pi
Ti 
100
Once we know the count of each component yarn, the limiting
irregularity of the blend yarn of n fibre components is given as follows,
(CV1 lim  T1) 2  (CV2 lim  T 2) 2  .....  (CVn lim Tn) 2

CVlim (blend) 
Tb
26
Index of Irregularity
The actually measured irregularity is always higher than the
limiting irregularity of a fibre assembly. As the limiting
irregularity, however, actually represents the "ideal case", it can
be considered as a reference when comparing the actual
irregularity. When one calculates the relationship between these
two values, one obtains the so-called "index of irregularity I".
CVeff U eff
I or
CVlim U lim it
The size of the index of irregularity (I) is a measure of the irregularity
of a spun material or a measure of the extent to which the spun
material deviates from the ideal case where I = 1. It can also indicate
how well a spinning machine is operating or whether this has become
worse over a period of time.
27
Index of Irregularity
In order to calculate the limiting irregularity, it is necessary to
determine the number of fibers n in the cross-section of the fibre
assembly. This figure is not always known. It must be determined from
the count of the sliver, roving or yarn and the fibre fineness.
100 TF
CVllim   100. (%)
n T
TF = Fibre fineness in tex

T= Count of the sliver, roving of yarn in tex
The basic formula for the index of irregularity I can be determined
from the formulas for the limiting irregularity according to the
following
CVeff
TF
I .
100 T
28
Impact of number of fibre in yarn cross-section on yarn
Unevenness
29
Addition of irregularities
Each machine in the spinning process adds a certain amount to the

irregularity of the finished yarn. Each subsequent stage of spinning
adds a degree of irregularity to the fibre material which is the
square of that of the previous process. In addition, the process itself
may introduce additional irregularities to the drafted material.
Mathematically, if a fibre assembly enters a drafting process (roving,
spinning) with an irregularity of CVin, and emerges from that process
with an irregularity of CVout, then the additional irregularity due to
the process itself (CVadd) according to the following formula:
CV 2 out  CV 2 in  CV 2 add or CVadd  CV 2 out  CV 2 in
U 2 out  U 2 in  U 2 add or U add  U 2 out  U 2 in

30
Reduction of irregularity
During drawing, many slivers are combined (doubled) on the

input side to feed the drawframe. The law of doubling says
that if you combine (double) n slivers together, the overall
irregularity of the combined (doubled) sliver will reduce
according to the following______
law:
CV I  CV
n
Where, CVI = CV of all n slivers at the input to the draw frame

____
CV = Mean value of the CV values of all the single

slivers
___ CV1  CV2 .... CVn
CV 
n
n = number of doubled slivers.

31
Uster Statistics
The USTER statistics are first and foremost a practical guide to good
textile practices in the field of yarn manufacturing. USTER statistics are
used to compare the quality standard of yarn. The amount of different
yarn faults such as thick (+50%), thin (-50%), neps (+200%), hairiness,
CV% of hairiness and the value of some important properties such as
strength, elongation, etc. are chart down for different quality standard.
The USTER statistics are not established by merely collecting data. It is
established by testing actual yarn and fibre sample that were procured on
a truly global scale via USTER agents, overseas, co-operators. A total 5840
samples were tested in their ISO-9000 certified textile laboratory in
USTER Switzerland.
32
Uster Statistics
In USTER statistics different quality standard such as USTER 5%,
USTER 25%, USTER 50%, USTER 75% etc. are categorized. So a mill
can compare their product with international quality standard.
1. To achieve target quality standard of their production process of
material are controlled.
2. It also motivates the all employees to get target quality standard.
3. A buyer can judge the agreement of yarn-seller to compare his
product to USTER statistics.
33
Uster Statistics
4. The price of the materials is determined to compare with USTER
quality statistics.
5. Machinery manufactures can use quality statistics as reference
values for their internal development of their machineries.
USTER top 25%

USTER top 25% means the minimum quality limit that is
maintained by top 25% mills of the world.
Spinning mills are listed according to their quality standard. The
minimum quality standard that gives first 25% mills of the list is
called USTER top 25%.
34
Uster Statistics
35
Determination of Deviation Rate (DR)
% Diagram of 1.5m cut length
20
l1 l3
15
10
5 +x% (+5%)
0
-5 -x% (-5%)
-10
-15
-20 l2
L TOTAL
36
37
38
Yarn faults
39
Yarn faults
Thin places
-60% -50% -40% -30%
Thick places
+35% +50% +70% +100%
Neps
+140% +200% +280% +400%
40
Thin places (-50%)/km
If a place in the yarn exceeds -30% with respect to mean yarn cross-
section and length is 10 mm, it is called the thin place.
Thin place sensitivity threshold (=level): -30%, -40%, -50%, -60%. Every
time the selected “%” value of mass decrease is exceeded, a thin place
is counted. Thin place -60% means the x-section at the thin place is
only 40% of the yarn x-section or less.
41
Thin places (-50%)/km
42
Thick places (+50%)/km
If a place in the yarn exceeds +35% with respect to mean yarn cross-
section and length is 10 mm, it is called the thick place.
Thick place sensitivity threshold (level): +35%, +50%, +70%, +100%.
Every time the selected “%” value of mass increase is exceeded, a
thick place is counted. Thick place +70% means the x-section at the
thick place is 170% of the yarn mean value or more.
43
Thick places (+50%)/km
44
Neps (+200%)/km
A nep is a very short thick place in the yarn. It can either be made
of fibre material, of trash particles or of foreign matter. Neps
sensitivity threshold (level): +140%, +200%, +280%, +400%. Every
time the selected “%” value of mass increase is exceeded, a nep is
counted. Neps +140% indicates the x-section at the nep is 240%
of the yarn mean value or more. The increase for neps is
calculated to a reference length of 1 mm.
45
Neps (+200%)/km
A 100% increase over 3 mm would correspond to a 300% increase

over 1 mm, and would be counted as a nep at a threshold limit of
280%. The maximum length for neps is limited to 4 mm.
If the first nep has a reference length of 1 mm, then it is identical
with the second nep. The Uster Tester counts both neps at
sensitivity level +400%. The two neps shown here are considered
to be the same disturbing in a woven or knit fabric.
46
Nep sensitivity for ring- and rotor-spun yarns
47
Neps (+200%)/km
48
Imperfection Index (IPI)
The imperfection index can be defined by the number of thick places,
thin places and neps in a given length of yarn. In the Uster evenness
tester, thin and thick places refer to imperfections that are within the
measuring sensitivity range (±50% with respect to the mean value of
yarn cross-sectional size), while neps are classified as the yarn
imperfections which may exceed the +200% limit. For ring spun yarn,
imperfections adversely affect yarn and fabric quality. A yarn with
more imperfections will exhibit poor appearance grade. Lower strength
and poor performance in weaving are likely to produce a fabric with
low quality.
49
IPI stands for Imperfection Index of yarns, which is a measure

of the sum of (+50%) thick places, (-50%) thin places and
(+200%) neps per 1000m of tested yarns.
50
Standard Imperfection Setting
Imperfections Ring-spun yarn Rotor-spun yarn
Thin places -50%/km -50%/km
Thick places +50%/km +50%/km
Neps +200%/km +280%/km
51
In Uster Evenness Tester, neps for rotor-spun yarns are usually

measured at sensitivity level of 280% whereas it is 200% for
ring-spun yarns. The structure of rotor-spun yarns is
intrinsically different from that of conventional ring yarns.
Neps in rotor yarns tend to be spun into the solid yarn body
rather than remaining on the yarn surface, which is typical for
ring-spun yarns. Although embedded in the yarn core, these
neps still represent a short mass defect and they will
therefore trigger the imperfection counter upon exceeding
the preset threshold value.
52
However, compared to neps that are attached to the yarn

surface, fully embedded neps are barely perceptible for the
human eye. In order to balance the typical visual appearance
of rotor-spun yarns with the imperfection counts of the Uster
Tester, the +280% sensitivity setting for neps has become a
common convention for the testing of rotor-spun yarns. The
choice of the actual limit of +280% for rotor yarns is
therefore to match with the visual assessment of the
observer.
53
Hairiness (H)
Yarn Hairiness is a measure of a number

of fibers protruding above the surface of
a yarn.
“H” corresponds to the length (in cm) of

single fibers protruding per 1 cm of yarn
length.
54
Variation of Hairiness (sH)
The standard deviation sH (cut length 1 cm) is a measure for the

variation of the yarn hairiness. Besides the normal standard
deviation ‘sH’ for 1 cm, it can be calculated for : 1m, 3 m, 10 m,
50 m, and 100 m.
55
For the data analyses in textiles, it is customary to specify

variations using the coefficient of variation (CV). To calculate the
CVH, the standard deviation SH is divided by the average
hairiness H. It was observed that the hairiness (H) can vary
quite strongly within a batch. As a result, the CVH will vary by
the same amount for the same SD and hence is not suitable for
comparing random samples. For this reason, a decision has
been made to use the standard deviation sH as a measure of
the hairiness variation of yarns.
56
Suppose, we have 1,00,000 ring bobbins. In First and Second bobbin:
57
Hairiness
Excessive hairiness affects the yarn performance in weaving

and knitting. And hairiness variation can downgrade certain
end products such as it seriously affects the appearance and
the feel of the fabric. Enormous money needs to spend on
controlling problems due to hairiness:
 Additional process needed – singeing, sizing etc.
 Humidity control in loom shed.
 New spinning machine – Compact spinning system (such as
Com4 by Rieter).
58
Causes of hairiness & hairiness variation
Raw material Spinning preparation & Spinning climate

Spinning
Fibre length Roving twist Temperature
Length uniformity Spinning tension Humidity
Short fibre content Age & type of rings &

traveler
stickiness Nozzle type (OE
spinning)
Yarn twist
Winding speed
59
Determination of yarn hairiness
Hairiness & its variation are independent of the yarn mass

and variation.
Principle
 A constant laser light shines on the protruding hairs of the
yarn body. The scattered lights are bundled by a lens
system and detected by an optical sensor. Optical sensor
transforms the scattered ray into electrical signal
(proportional to the yarn’s hairiness) and evaluated by
the Uster Tester computer.
 If no yarn is located in the measurement field, no light
falls on the photo receiver and generated no electrical
signal.
60
61
Determination of yarn hairiness
 In case of rod-like yarn (having no hair), yarn body is

reflected as dark (as it is not transparent) and then also
no electrical signal is generated. Only protruding fibres
appear to be luminous.
 The resulting electrical signal is proportional to the light
intensity produced by the scattered light of the
protruding fibres. Since yarn body is reflected as dark, so
hairiness signal has virtually no relation with the yarn
diameter i.e. yarn count.
62
Evaluation possibilities
 Hairiness diagram along the length.
 Average hairiness value (H) and variation (sH)
 Measured results can be compared with Uster Statistics
 Hairiness spectrogram
 Obtain information of hairiness variation at different cut length.
63
Confidence range of the mean value with normal
distribution
In textile testing, it is generally considered with a statistical
significance ‘S’ of 95%. This means that the real mean value of
the population will lie within this confidence range with a degree
of error of
α = 100% - S = 100% - 95% = 5%
The limits of this confidence range can be calculated
Q95% = x  k .s
64
Confidence range of the mean value with normal distribution
𝑡
The factor k refers to the value .
√𝑛
Here ‘t’ (factor of the student distribution) is dependent on the
chosen statistical significance S (such as 95%, 80% etc.) and the
‘degree of freedom’ (f = n-1). The values of k can be taken from
any available book having statistical tables. The following table is
given for the sample sizes ‘n’ normally used today.
Sample size, n 5 10 20 30 50 100

Factor, k 1.24 0.715 0.467 0.373 0.284 0.198
65
Problem 1
A batch of cotton yarn consisting 1 million bobbins of 68 Nm

karded. Sample taken = 10 bobbins and tested with an evenness
tester. CV of 10 samples = 20.17%, 19.07%,…………., 20.20%
Solution:
Mean Value, x= 20.25
Standard deviation, s = 0.904
Q95% = x  k .s
= 20.25  0.715 ×0.904

= 20.25  0.647
66
Mathematically,
S =  nx 1x in case of number of data above 100, it will be n.
2
i
S
CV = X 100%
x
 x  x 
2
1
CV = i
X 100%
x n 1
__ __ __ __
s
( x1  x)  ( x 2  x)  .....  ( x n  x)
2 2 2

 i x
( x  ) 2
n 1 n 1
___
x1  x 2  x3  .......  x n  xi
x  
n n 67
Solution
Comments: If all the bobbins in this batch had been tested, we would
have a reference to the actual mean value of the complete batch. As
we tested only 10 bobbins, we can only provide the limits within which
the actual mean value of the batch would lie. This tolerance of the
result will be smaller if the larger sample size is taken.
With the statistical significance of 95%, it indicates that the actual

mean value of the complete batch will lie between 19.60  20.90%.
The probability of error that we have made a mistake is 5%
68
Solution
69
Problem 2
The fineness of 10 ring cops are found to be 39.53, 39.74,

39.56, 39.78, 40.01, 39.92, 40.26, 40.18, 40.43,39.82 Ne
respectively. Calculate the confidence limit of mean value
(Q95%) of the mean yarn count.
70
Variance Length Curve (VL-Curve)
In simple terms, a ‘variance-length curve’ is a graphical

representation of the coefficient of variation (CV%)
against the reference cut length. For constructing the VL-
curve, the measuring field length is taken as the basic cut
length at which the CV is calculated and plotted. For
variations at other cut lengths, the mass of successive
portion of material are added up and the CV is calculated.
71
Typical Variance Length Curve (VL-Curve)
in double logarithmic paper
72
73
Representation of different cut length
74
One can easily comprehend that the curve for same

material and same ideal processing conditions will always
be a straight line with an unchanged angle of inclination.
Deviations from the straight lines must therefore indicate
problems caused by the machine or the raw material.
75
The variations are more intensive at shorter cut lengths when

compared to longer cut lengths. At longer cut lengths, the
variations on the positive and the negative side tend to even out
to a certain extend resulting in lower values for CV%. The
decreasing trend when drawn out on double logarithmic paper
results in a straight line.
A VL-curve can be set out in quite a simple manner by cutting a
fibre assembly into pieces and determining gravimetrically the
mass of these pieces. The CV value is then calculated from each
of these separate values. If this procedure is repeated for various
cut lengths and CV value drawn out, one obtains the VL-curve.
76
The VL-curve is a straight line on double logarithmic paper only

in the medium length range approx. 1 cm to 100 m. For cut
lengths longer than 100 m, the VL-curve tends to become
flatter. This is because, as the cut length becomes longer and
longer, the short-term variations compensate each other more
and more, and the difference between successive lengths will be
dependent only on the intensity of long-term variations.
77
Ideal and faulty VL-Curve
78
Uster Test results of Yarn
79
80
81
Classification of variation
Classification of variation:
a) Random Variation: Variation occurring without definite pattern
of repetition or definite sequence of Thick and Thin Places.
a) Periodic Variation: Variation show definite sequence of thick

and thin places in strand of material.
1. Short Term Variations: Wave length 1-10 times of fibre
length.
2. Medium Term Variations: Wave length 10-100 times the
fibre length
3. Long Term Variations: Wave length 100-1000 times the fibre
length
82
Periodic mass variation
Periodic mass variation in the yarn results in disturbing

patterns in woven and knitted fabric. Such faults have to be
detected as early as possible. They are never caused by the
raw material, but are due to faults in processing.
Causes for periodic mass variations
 defective card clothing
 eccentric (out-of-centre) rollers in drafting zones
 defective apron etc.
83
(a) Short term Periodic mass variation: 1-50 cm

Periodic mass variations in the range of 1-50 cm are
normally repeated a number of times within the woven or
knitted fabric width, which results in the fact that periodic
thick places or thin places will lie near or each other. This
produces, in most cases, a Moire effect. This effect is
particularly intensive for naked eye if the finished product is
observed at a distance of approx. 50 cm to 1 m.
84
(b) Medium-term Periodic mass variation: 50 cm – 5m
Periodic mass variations in the range of 50 cm – 5 m are
not recognizable in every case. Faults in this range are
particularly effective if the single of double weave width, or
the length of the stretched out yarn for one circumference
of the knitted fabric, is an integral number of wavelengths if
the periodic fault, or is near to an integral number of
wavelengths. In such cases, it is to be expected that weft
strips will appear in the woven fabric or ‘rings’ in the
knitted fabric. 85
(c) Long-term Periodic mass variation: Longer than 5m
Periodic mass variations with wavelengths longer than 5 m
can result in quite distinct cross-strips in woven and knitted
fabrics, because the wavelength of the period fault is longer
than the weave width or the circumference of the knitted
fabric.
86
It is not possible to recognize and analyze this type of fault from
the mass diagram. Spectrogram serves for the analysis of
periodic defects. In spectrogram, the wave-length directly
indicates at what interval the periodic faults repeat.
87
The mass diagram is a representation of mass variation against

length of sample tested, but the spectrogram is a representation
of the mass variation against wave-length. The wave-length
indicates directly at what interval the periodic faults repeat. The
exact designation for the curve produced by the Uster Tester is
the wave-length spectrum which as referred as spectrogram as
shown below:
88
89
90
Spectrogram
The spectrogram indicates periodic or nearly periodic mass
variation. It is a curve obtained by plotting the amplitude of
irregularity against wave length. It expresses the difference of yarn
thickness in a chart. A standard textile material such as roving or
yarn has series of irregularities with different wave length. If they
are plotted in a continuous curve then it would be produced the
spectrogram.
91
Spectrogram
Roving or yarn passes through the capacitor. The irregularity of
material changes the capacity of the capacitor. It is converted into
electro-magnetic signal and produce spectrogram.
Irregularity spectrum is used to determined periodic variation.
Analyzing the spectrogram different types of periodic faults and
their sources can be detected and necessary steps can be taken
accordingly.
92
Spectrogram
In between these two peaks, there will be a valley. In cotton,
wollen and other material with variable staple diagram, the
spectrogram has a hump like shape with maximum around 2 to
3 times mean length. Thus spectrogram of cotton yarns has a
maximum at 6 to 8cm, of woolen yarn at about 20cm. OE rotor
yarns have a peak at a slightly lower length than ring yarns
because fibres are curled with hooks leading to a lower
projected length on yarn axis.
93
Spectrogram
When periodic variation is present, spectrogram will show a

sharp peak at the point corresponding to wavelength of
periodicity. So spectrogram is a useful tool for detecting the
periodicities in the material. It also gives their wavelength
which can be used to trace the cause of periodicity and rectify
it.
94
Spectrogram
Spectrogram is a Fourier analysis of variations present in the
material. The amplitude of the variations are sorted as per their
wavelength and plotted as an amplitude vs wavelength curve.
The spectrogram of a yarn due to random fibre arrangement has
a "hill" whose maximum wavelength lies in the region of 2.5 to
3 times fibre length. On the top of it, waves introduced by
drafting waves is superimposed.
95
Spectrogram
Wavelength of drafting wave is also 2.5 to 3 times fibre length

and so in normal yarn the "hill" is pronounced depending
upon the amplitude of drafting wave. With cut staple fibres
peak value of spectrogram lies at 2.7 times fibre length. A
shorter but a smaller amplitude wave will also be found at half
the fibre length and this is a lower harmonic.
96
Types of spectrogram fault
A chimney-type spectrogram, consisting of one or more ‘peaks’

of ‘chimneys’, is normally due to a mechanical fault such as
eccentric roller/gear, improper meshing, missing of teeth in
gear wheels etc.
A hill-type spectrogram, where several adjacent peaks are
noticed, is normally due to drafting waves caused by factors
such as improper settings in the drafting zone, improper
pressure applied by the top rollers, too many short fibres in the
material, etc. The wave length of the peak is specific in chimney.
But in hill-type fault the wavelength varies over a range.
97
Types of spectrogram fault
98
99
Advantages of Spectrogram over Diagram

 Mass diagram shows various types of faults where it is
difficult to recognize the periodic fault.
 Two or more periodic faults in the same fibre assembly can
hardly be recognized in the diagram, whereas they are clearly
evident in the spectrogram
100
Effect of drafting on periodic fault
Periodic faults found in drawn sliver due to the eccentricity of the delivery roller (dia.
= 40 mm)of draw frame:
λ1 = 𝝅 𝑿 𝟒 = 𝟏𝟐. 𝟓𝟔 𝒄𝒎
The periodic fault created in roving produced from simplex machine, due
to the eccentricity of the delivery roller (dia.=40 mm)of draw frame :
λ2 =λ1 𝐗 𝟏𝟎 = 𝟏. 𝟐𝟓𝟔 𝒎
The periodic fault created in yarn produced from ring frame, due to the eccentricity
of the delivery roller (dia. = 40 mm)of draw frame:
λ3 =λ2 𝐗 𝟐𝟓 = 𝟑𝟏. 𝟓𝒎
101
Effect of drafting on periodic fault
102
103

Uster Tester

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Uster Tester

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Uster Unevenness Tester

A diagram is an important part of evenness tester. It contains a large

Marking of the diagram: Sliver 12.5% or 25%

Cut length: 1 cm (normal diagram) (scale 100%)

Fig. Normal mass diagram

Fig. 10 m cut length diagram, scale ±20%

Fig. 1 cm cut length diagram (Normal mass diagram), scale ±100%

For a complete analysis of the quality of fibre assembly, along with

The mass variation can be considered to be a normal distribution.

It can be considered that if the fiber assembly

When mass variation is distributed symmetrically, is

Fig. Diagram with normal distribution

When the mass variation has two or more peaks due to

Fig. Diagram with asymmetrical distribution

Distributions are symmetrical, but deviate from the normal

Fig. Diagram with long mass jumps

The minimum irregularity that must be expected from even an ideal

Limiting irregularity of an ideal yarn without fibre variability:

where n is the mean number of fibres in the cross-section

Yarn linear density (tex)

To calculate the limiting irregularity of cotton fibre assemblies.

Yarn linear density (tex)

(CV1 lim  T1) 2  (CV2 lim  T 2) 2  .....  (CVn lim Tn) 2

TF = Fibre fineness in tex

Each machine in the spinning process adds a certain amount to the

CV 2 out  CV 2 in  CV 2 add or CVadd  CV 2 out  CV 2 in

U 2 out  U 2 in  U 2 add or U add  U 2 out  U 2 in

During drawing, many slivers are combined (doubled) on the

Where, CVI = CV of all n slivers at the input to the draw frame

CV = Mean value of the CV values of all the single

n = number of doubled slivers.

USTER top 25%

-60% -50% -40% -30%

+35% +50% +70% +100%

+140% +200% +280% +400%

A 100% increase over 3 mm would correspond to a 300% increase

IPI stands for Imperfection Index of yarns, which is a measure

Standard Imperfection Setting

Imperfections Ring-spun yarn Rotor-spun yarn

Thin places -50%/km -50%/km

Thick places +50%/km +50%/km

Neps +200%/km +280%/km

In Uster Evenness Tester, neps for rotor-spun yarns are usually

However, compared to neps that are attached to the yarn

Yarn Hairiness is a measure of a number

“H” corresponds to the length (in cm) of

The standard deviation sH (cut length 1 cm) is a measure for the

For the data analyses in textiles, it is customary to specify

Suppose, we have 1,00,000 ring bobbins. In First and Second bobbin:

Excessive hairiness affects the yarn performance in weaving

Raw material Spinning preparation & Spinning climate

Short fibre content Age & type of rings &

Hairiness & its variation are independent of the yarn mass

 In case of rod-like yarn (having no hair), yarn body is

Sample size, n 5 10 20 30 50 100

A batch of cotton yarn consisting 1 million bobbins of 68 Nm

= 20.25  0.715 ×0.904

With the statistical significance of 95%, it indicates that the actual

The fineness of 10 ring cops are found to be 39.53, 39.74,

In simple terms, a ‘variance-length curve’ is a graphical

One can easily comprehend that the curve for same

The variations are more intensive at shorter cut lengths when

The VL-curve is a straight line on double logarithmic paper only