Perjuangan Keadilan Agraria Inspirasi

Gunawan Wiradi Adi D Bahri Mohamad

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Regulasi Pertanahan dan Semangat Keadilan Agraria Prof
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BUKU BUNGA RAMPAI ini adalah jilid kedua dari seri Perjuangan
Keadilan Agraria. Pada jilid pertama dibicarakan berbagai dimensi
ketidakadilan agraria pada berbagai wilayah geografis yang berlainan
serta bagaimana hal itu dialami dan direspons secara beragam oleh
kelompok sosial yang berlainan (menurut gender, etnik, kelas, usia
dan saling-silang di antaranya). Jilid kedua ini memfokuskan pada
figur yang banyak memberi inspirasi pada upaya-upaya memahami,
membongkar, dan sekaligus mengoreksi aneka bentuk ketidakadilan
agraria di Indonesia: Gunawan Wiradi alias GWR. Dalam buku
ini, GWR menyampaikan refleksi personal atas perjalanan hidupnya
dalam memperjuangkan agenda reforma agraria. Peranan penting
GWR dalam perjuangan agenda ini tercermin dalam testimoni
lintas generasi yang dicantumkan dalam buku ini. Beberapa tulisan
lain berupaya mengembangkan lebih lanjut inspirasi GWR dengan
menjelajahi berbagai jalan baru perjuangan keadilan agraria. Tidak
kalah menarik, bagian terakhir buku ini berisi persembahan karya-
karya sastra (prosa dan puisi) yang mengekspresikan aneka bentuk
pergulatan agraria yang terus dialami rakyat pedesaan di negeri ini.

“… from 1972 onwards we can feel the constant presence of Gunawan

Wiradi, ‘leading from behind’. His quiet wisdom, knowledge, his historical
perspective and his great attention to detail and method … have earned
him the enduring respect of all those interested in the struggle against
agrarian poverty and inequality in Indonesia.”
(Ben White, 2009)

“Gunawan Wiradi telah berjasa besar menjadi jembatan pengetahuan,

yang memungkinkan saya dan kawan-kawan aktivis agraria lainnya
menjelajahi suatu bidang ilmu yang kemudian kami kenal dengan nama
kajian-kajian agraria kritis (critical agrarian studies).”
(Noer Fauzi Rachman, 2019)

ISBN: 978-602-51260-5-5

STPN Press
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Pusat Studi Agraria, Institut Pertanian Bogor
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Jawa Barat, Indonesia
Surel: psa@apps.ipb.ac.id | Website: www.psa.ac.id
STPN Press
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Telepon: 0274 587239
Website: pppm.stpn.ac.id
 Persembahan Vntuk
Dr. Ir. Gunawan Wiradi, M.Soc.Sc.

Guru dan pejuang LFBEJMBO
agraria

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Prof. Dr. Benjamin White. Dia adalah sahabat abadi yang telah berbuat banyak bagi GWR.
Tahun 1974
GWR mempersiapkan berdirinya Studi Dinamika Pedesaan (SDP) yang bertujuan
mempelajari dinamika perubahan pedesaan yang mewakili kondisi yang berbeda-beda baik
dari segi geografi, topografi, maupun ekologi. SDP merupakan unit khusus dalam SAE. Di
unit lembaga ini GWR menjadi sekretaris dan sebagai ketuanya adalah Dr. Rudolf Sinaga.
Tahun 1975
GWR berangkat studi di Universiti Sains Malaysia (USM) atau 3 tahun setelah
bekerja di SAE, dengan biaya fellowship A/D/C.
Tahun 1977
Pemerintah Orde Baru mulai resah setelah memperoleh banyak kritik dan
demonstrasi besar-besaran. Persoalan agraria ditilik kembali oleh pemerintah, namun
sebenarnya alasan utamanya adalah pembangunan nasional (industri) yang membutuhkan
ketersediaan tanah. Meskipun demikian, efek dari ditiliknya kembali persoalan agraria
adalah bahwa Reforma Agraria tidak diidentikkan lagi dengan agenda komunis dan
ilmuwan-ilmuwan sosial yang semula “tiarap” mulai berani muncul berbicara tentang
Reforma Agraria.
Tahun 1978
GWR pulang ke tanah air setelah tamat dan memperoleh gelar Master dalam bidang
ilmu-ilmu sosial komparatif. Sepulangnya dari Malaysia, GWR bergabung kembali dengan
SDP-SAE sebagai staf pembina.
Tahun 1979
Konferensi internasional FAO yang membahas tentang pembangunan pedesaan dan
pembaruan agraria diselenggarakan di Roma. Dari 145 negara, terdapat 6 negara yang
mengirim delegasi besar, termasuk Indonesia dengan jumlah utusan lebih dari 40 orang,
di antaranya adalah Prof. Sajogyo, Prof. Sediono MP. Tjondronegoro, Dr. Rudolf Sinaga
(Institut Pertanian Bogor), Prof. Sukadji (Universitas Gadjah Mada), dan lain-lain.
Tahun 1979
Di semua sampel Studi Dinamika Pedesaan (SDP) yang penelitiannya sedang
berlangsung, persoalan tanah dimasukkan dalam variabel penelitian. Keterlibatan GWR di
proyek SDP ini (sebagai sekretaris) membawanya berinteraksi secara intens dengan
kalangan peneliti. Isu tentang penguasaan tanah mulai diangkat, meski belum
diperlakukan dengan analisa yang mendalam. Isu itu lalu dibawa GWR ke Workshop on
Rural History.
Tahun 1979
Jurnal terkemuka Prisma edisi September 1979 mengangkat isu Reforma Agraria di
bawah judul “Mencari Hak Rakyat atas Tanah”. Dalam edisi ini, GWR bersama Benjamin
White menyumbang tulisan berjudul “Pola-pola Penguasaan Tanah di DAS Cimanuk
Dahulu dan Sekarang: Beberapa Catatan Sementara”.

22 Jejak Langkah Sang Pembentuk Zaman

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Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
 There were two sisters living in the sultan’s harim, the eldest was
his concubine. He one day entered her room and found her absent
with her mother, and, on inquiry, he heard that she was in the habit
of fetching both her daughters away for the purpose of intrigue, as
the sultan allowed them nothing but what I have stated as the usual
fare. He determined to make an example: so when she brought back
the girls, he told her the pañgeran shabandar wanted to speak to
her; she went, and, on entering the room saw on the table the fatal
instrument, the garotte; she guessed her fate, but fell on her knees
before the pañgeran and begged for her life, offering to confess the
names of those who had received her daughters at their houses:
upon this, pañgeran Mahomed, a dissipated young man, struck her
on the mouth with his slipper, and, the signal being given, the
assistants slipped the skein of thread over her head, fixed the board
at the back of her neck, and turning a short stick, strangled her, and
then delivered the body to her astonished husband.
The board used has two holes in it, through which the thick skein
of brownish thread is passed, and once the latter is round the neck, it
is easy to tighten it by the stick fixed behind.
The eldest daughter was expelled the harim, and given in
marriage to the sultan’s old favourite, while the younger one was
disgraced to slaves’ duties.
The pañgeran tumanggong, discovering a woman assisting his
concubines from the house, slew her with his own kris, in the
presence of his wife.
The sultan’s wife and favourite concubines dress well in European
silks and satins, and possess an abundance of gold ornaments, but
the others are, as I have said, poorly provided for.
The women delight in every practice that can deceive their lords,
and they have invented a system of speaking to each other in what
may be called an inverted language—in Malay, “Bhasa Balik.” It is
spoken in different ways: ordinary words have their syllables
transposed, or to each syllabic another one is added. For “mari,” to
come, they say, “malah-rilah;” they are constantly varying it, and girls
often invent a new system, only confided to their intimate
acquaintances; if they suspect they are understood by others, they
instantly change it.
As might be expected, the education of the women is very much
neglected; few can write, and none spell correctly. I often had love-
letters shown me by amorous but ignorant swains, who were afraid
to trust the discretion of any native writer, and they have invariably
been ill-written and worse spelt; this, however, is not said in
disparagement, as few of the men can either read or write.
The women are fond of making vows, and to that practice I am
indebted for my only glimpse of a Bornean harïm. During my first
expedition to Molu, my boat snapped on a snag, and I was left to
return through the jungle. The report spread that I was dead, and
various vows were made; among others, the wives and daughters of
some of the rajahs made a vow, if I returned in safety, I should visit
them and be showered over with yellow rice for good luck’s sake.
The pañgerans consented, thinking I was dead; but, on my safe
return, the ladies insisted upon carrying out their vow; they were
anxious to see a white man within their walls.
The nobles came and asked me; I at first declined, but, on being
pressed, consented. The whole place was very paltry; about twenty
middle-aged women were present, while a crowd of young girls, half
hidden by a curtain, occupied the lower end of the room. On my
displaying the most perfect indifference as to whether I saw them or
not, they gradually emerged. I observed no pretty faces, and
constant confinement to the house had rendered their skins of a very
light yellow. I am afraid we were mutually disappointed, as the only
remark I heard them make about me was, “How very dull his eyes
are;” and so they were compared to their flashing black ones.
Full of faults as the Bornean rajahs doubtless are, oppressors of
their subjects, and totally unfitted to rule, yet they are, in my opinion,
the most agreeable natives I have ever met. As a companion, few
Europeans could be more interesting than was the shabandar, the
Makota of Keppel’s book, and “the serpent,” as he was popularly
called. I never wearied of his society, and always enjoyed the little
picnics to which he invited me. His death, which I have related in my
Limbang Journal, was tragic, though he deserved his fate. They all
display, in the most exciting discussions, a propriety of behaviour
and gentleness of manner that wins those who have dealings with
them. Procrastination is their greatest fault, and sometimes trying to
the temper.
They are very tenacious of their dignity, and only the royal family
can use yellow; and for a trader to fly streamers or flags from the
mast-head is a great offence to the nobles. It used to be, and will
probably be again after the present sultan’s death, a punishable
offence for a person of inferior rank to pass the palace steps with his
umbrella spread, or to sit in the after-part of a boat, that being the
place for nobles. A man wearing yellow would be punished, while
even the slave girls may dress in that colour. The distinctions of rank
are kept up with great strictness, yet the sultan will talk to the people
with perfect familiarity, but they always reply in a most respectful
tone; though during the evening free conversation is encouraged.
The sultan and nobles deplore the decay of their country, but
cannot, or rather will not, understand that it is their own unreflecting
rapacity which destroys the springs of industry.
There are no fixed impositions, but the aborigines suffer from the
exactions of all, until, they have told me that, in despair, they are
planting yearly less and less, and trusting to the jungle for a
subsistence. The price of uncleaned rice has risen four hundred per
cent. during my experience of Brunei. This partly arises from the
ravages of the Kayans, who have lessened the agricultural
population, and greatly narrowed the area of cultivation; and partly,
as I have observed, from the dependencies ceasing to yield so much
to the nobles, they are compelled to depend more on the
neighbouring tribes.
I have not yet mentioned the people who inhabit the hills which
surround the capital; they are called Kadayans, and are evidently
aborigines converted to Islamism. It is a tradition among them that
they and the Perambat and Pablat sections of the city inhabited by
the fishermen were formerly Muruts, and joined the Mahomedans
about four hundred years ago. In digging near the consulate, I found
a large jar, with the remains of bones and a skull, almost dissolved
by time, very similar to the ones used for the same purpose by the
Muruts of the present day. It is supposed by the Kadayans to have
been buried there before their conversion.
As a rule, these hill-men are never oppressed; a few, however,
who seem to have had claims over them, originating in debts due by
their ancestors, were seized in April, 1861, by the widow of the late
sultan, and put in irons until some demands of hers should be
satisfied. The whole city was thrown into confusion by this
proceeding; all the Kadayans assembled under their chiefs, stopped
the supplies of food, and threatened an attack from the neighbouring
hills; deputations of nobles waited on the lady, and begged her to let
go the men, but she sturdily refused. For three days every man was
prepared to defend his portion of the town; business was suspended,
and fears and panics prevailed; till at last her relations gave way to
the anger of the rest of the inhabitants, and insisted upon her letting
her prisoners go.
The Kadayans have great influence in the city, on account of their
agricultural pursuits; they supply large amounts of rice, and nearly all
the fruit and vegetables. I have wandered over their districts, and
never have I seen more lovely spots than are to be found at Upper
Butil, Limapas, and in the interior of the Kadayan river. The groves of
fruit-trees are immense, and no idea can be formed of them, unless
we imagine our pear and apple trees of the size of the most gigantic
elms. They are generally planted on the gentle slopes of low hills,
and the cool and well-shaded paths among them are dry and
pleasant to tread.
The Kadayans are devoted to the pañgeran tumanggong, and will
not, I believe, consent to any other noble succeeding to the present
sultan. They are not a warlike race, but they are united. In
commercial affairs this may be especially noticed: a meeting of their
chiefs takes place, they settle the price of rice, and none of their
followers will swerve from it.
About a thousand of these men have lately gone over to our little
colony of Labuan, to settle there as planters, and the heavy forest is
falling in all directions before them. Having mentioned this island, I
will make a few remarks upon it. Labuan possesses one of the finest
forests I have seen in Borneo, and is admirably situated for three
objects—to suppress piracy, to influence the neighbouring countries,
and to increase commerce by many means. Among the last, I may
mention the numerous coal seams which are found in the island; that
they have not been yet developed is no matter of surprise to those
who are familiar with the early management; and that they will be
hereafter of the utmost importance is the confident belief of those
who are best acquainted with the island. My own opinion is, that the
working will prove a most lucrative speculation, if proper care be
taken in the choice of those who are to conduct the affairs of the new
Labuan coal company.
No better spot could be chosen as one of the stations for the
telegraph wires on their way’ to China. From Singapore, stated in
round numbers, to Sarawak is 400 miles; to Labuan, 350 miles; to
Manilla, 600 miles; to Hong Kong, 600 miles more. If Manilla be
avoided, a station might be formed on one of the isles off Palawan.
Labuan, managed by an officer who made himself well acquainted
with the character of the people inhabiting the neighbouring
countries, might, with a slight support from the navy, exert great
influence. I must mention one good Labuan has already done: it has
changed the character of slavery. Formerly, the Bornean masters
could treat their dependants as harshly as they pleased; now it is a
common saying, “If we are not gentle towards our slaves, they will
run to Labuan.” In fact, latterly very little restraint was laid on the
freest intercourse with this island on the part of the masters, as far
as concerned the males; but the females they tried by every means
to prevent leaving. Yet hundreds of women visit Labuan, and can
stay there if they please.
The trade of our colony is small, though it is increasing, while that
of Brunei is rapidly decreasing, and recent arrangements will tend to
accelerate its fall. I should mention that there are many districts in
the neighbourhood of Labuan in which pepper is cultivated, and this
produce is slowly increasing in quantity in the market; but could the
Governor of Labuan have the means at his disposal to influence the
neighbouring coast, the pepper cultivation would rapidly advance. It
is now grown in the districts of Kalias, Bundu, Tanah Merah, Qualla
Lama, Membakut, Papar, Mengkabong, and Tawaran.
Sago at present is the principal export, though some valuable
products, as white birds’ nests, camphor, wax, rattans, and
occasionally pearls are brought from the north. No place could be
better situated than Labuan to draw to it the trade of the Sulu
archipelago and of the north-east coast of Borneo, and its doing so
will depend on the amount of influence it is permitted to exercise.
It is a curious circumstance, that the natives of many of the
districts to the north of Labuan assert that before civil strife and
pirates drove trade from their coasts, they used to supply the
Chinese and Javanese markets with a large amount of cotton. This
plant is still cultivated, though to a very limited extent.
I have referred to the very fine forest which clothes the surface of
Labuan: among the forest trees are the camphor and the damar; the
former produces the valuable Kapur barus of commerce, and is a
very handsome tree, rising in a fine stem ninety or a hundred feet
before it throws out a branch, and then presents a well-shaped head,
with dense foliage. Its timber is lasting, and is much liked for planks
and beams of houses. In the forests of Labuan I have often come
across fine trees felled by the natives in search of the camphor, as
this product can only be obtained by destroying the tree, as it exists
in a concrete form in the interstices of the trunk. But I have heard
natives say, that occasionally they cut down one which has a
decayed portion, and in this they find the finest camphor. It is
possible that these decayed portions may arise from former seekers
cutting holes in the tree to discover whether there were sufficient
camphor to render it worth while to fell the tree, a practice they carry
on to the present day. An oil is also collected from this tree, which
rubbed over a chest of drawers will effectually prevent the invasion
of insects.
This method of obtaining the camphor is very wasteful compared
to the way gamboge is collected. I have never seen an account
given of it, so I will introduce it here:—The tree is found in Kambodia,
the province of Chantibun in Siam, the islands on the eastern coast
of the Gulf of Siam, and the southern part of Cochin China. The
small plants which were brought to Bangkok were woody, with thick
ovate leaves; the tree in full growth is large, measuring often five feet
in circumference, and rising to a considerable height. At the
commencement of the rainy season, the gamboge seekers start for
the forest in search of the trees, which are occasionally plentiful.
Having found a full-grown one, they make a spiral incision in the
back round half its circumference, and place a joint of bamboo to
catch the sap, which percolates slowly from it for many months.
When it first issues from the tree, it looks like a yellowish fluid, which
after passing through a viscous state, hardens into the gamboge of
commerce with a crystal-like fracture. The flowers of the tree are
said to resemble those of the egg-plant, and the fruit is small and
globular. The time of gathering it depends much on the fancy of the
people, as some declare that it is injurious to seek it in wet weather,
and prefer the very driest months. The trees grow both in the valleys
and on the mountains, and an average one will yield three joints of
bamboo, twenty inches in length, by one and a half in diameter. The
tree appears to suffer no injury if the gamboge be collected every
other year, but if it be tapped each season, it shortens its life. Like
every other nation, the Kambodians are fond of adding adulterations,
and mix with it rice, flour and sand, while others pulverise the bark,
to add to its weight; but this last operation is soon found out, as it
imparts to the article a greenish tinge.
The damar trees in Labuan are remarkably fine. I have seen one
measured one hundred and twenty feet to the first branch, and
eighteen feet in circumference above twenty feet from the ground.
Labuan is also stocked with excellent trees for spars. I may add that
petroleum is found in considerable quantities floating on the surface
of water in the jungle; but I think no examination has been made as
to the probable yield of these oil-springs.
Before concluding my observations on Labuan, I may remark it
possesses a very excellent harbour, of easy approach. The great
success of our colony will depend, however, on its yield of coal.
 The coal-fields of Borneo are as extensive as the island. It is
reported in Maludu Bay; found in Gaya Island; is everywhere
discoverable on the mainland opposite Labuan; has been traced in
Baram, in Bintulu, through the Sarawak districts to Banjermasin on
the southern coast. They must some day prove of the greatest
importance.
Continuing my notice of the capital, I may explain that the whole
direct revenue of the sultan does not exceed 2,500l. a year, except
what he may obtain in produce from his dependent tribes, which
scarcely supports the current expenses of his household.
The Brunei government possesses no armed force beyond the
power of calling out the population as militia, who rarely respond to
the call, as they are neither fed nor paid during their time of service,
and are generally required to perform acts repugnant to their real
interests. It possesses neither war boats nor police, and is incapable
of organizing an expedition to attack a neighbouring district, and is,
without exception, one of the most contemptible semblances of
power that ever existed. As I have said before, it has the name of
government, but not the reality.
Crime is unpunished, if committed by a relative or a follower of a
high noble, as no one will act against him for fear of the enmity of his
chief. There is a man in Brunei, named Sirudin Buñgkul, who is the
most notorious thief in the capital. He lives in very good style on the
result of his achievements, and is admitted into the best society. He
is never punished, as he is a follower of the chief minister, the
pañgeran bandhara. He appears to be clever, as he manages to
quiet the dogs, and has never been taken in the act of robbery; in
fact, few would dare to attempt to seize a man naked to the waist,
well oiled, and carrying a drawn kris in his hand. When in want of
funds, he makes a visit to the different shops to inspect; he is always
treated with a kind of familiar deference, and the Chinese are kept in
a state of nervousness till his coup has come off. Petty thefts are
common, but few extensive robberies; and yet it is not difficult to get
into leaf-houses, particularly of the Chinese, who sleep heavily after
their opium and spirits.
 It is not surprising that these men occasionally commit crimes
when an example is set by the highest officers of state. Makota, who
was in the habit of getting into debt, and seldom troubling himself
about payment, owed a Chinese trader, Si Panjang, a considerable
sum of money. The constant dunning of this creditor at last produced
a quarrel, and the Chinese used some expressions which Makota
considered very insulting; so next morning he sent the Bindari, one
of his officers, to affix a notice to Si Panjang’s door, giving notice that
he was no longer under the protection of government. Five days
after a fire burst out in that dwelling, which not only consumed the
trader’s house, but extended so as to burn down half the Chinese
quarter, and the loss was estimated at 20,000l. Though long
suspected, the fact was not made clear till after Makota’s death. The
fire took place in July, 1856, two months before I took up my
residence in Brunei.
Thefts and robberies are nominally punished by cutting off the
hand, but this penalty has fallen into disuse since the advent of the
English. There are, however, two men to be seen about the town
who have lost a hand as a punishment. Sometimes a fine is inflicted,
but generally the culprit is let off after a few days in the stocks.
It is an interesting fact, that the sultan and many of the older men
always fix an event by saying this occurred before or after the fall of
ashes, referring to that awful eruption which took place in April,
1815, when the mountain of Timboro in Sambawa burst forth and
covered every country near with a fall of ashes. Sir Stamford Raffles
has given a graphic account of it in his “History of Java”, and I only
mention the fact now, as Brunei, where some of the ashes fell, must
be above nine hundred miles from the volcano. At Sarawak it is also
constantly referred to.
I have described in a previous chapter the appearance of the
river, but I have not mentioned that here I have most often heard the
singing or hummingfish, which sticks to the bottom of the boats, and
produces a sound something like that of a Jew’s-harp struck slowly,
though sometimes it increases in loudness so as to resemble the full
sound and tones of an organ. My men have pointed me out a fish
about four inches long as the author of the music. It is marked with
alternate stripes of black and yellow across the back.
They have a curious method of catching prawns in this river: a
man sits in the stern of a canoe, a little on one side, so as to make
its edge towards the bank almost on a level with the water, and but a
foot from the mud. On the same side he has an immense comb
fastened at the stern, which, at an angle, stretches beyond the bows
of the canoe, and sweeps the bank. The prawns congregating at the
very edge of the mud, make a spring to avoid the teeth of the comb;
and in doing so, nearly always fall into the boat. The comb is simply
a long bamboo, with holes drilled into one side, into which are
inserted pieces of thin bamboo or wood about two feet long at the
farther end, and gradually lessening as they approach the fisherman.
I may also mention that the Malays are very fond of the following
sport. They collect many hundred bundles of the roots of the tuba-
plant, and beat them out in their canoes, keeping them wet, and
permitting the juice, which has an intoxicating property, to flow into
the bottom of their boats. When they have sufficient, they throw it
into the water at the mouths of the rivers just at the turn of the flood-
tide; and the fish, feeling its effects, either rise to the surface
completely intoxicated, or, in the case of the large ones, sufficiently
stupefied to be easily speared. It is an exciting sport when several
hundred men in light canoes are engaged in it. It is a superstition
that while they are occupied in this amusement, should a boat pass
the mouth of the river, and the crew beat the water with their
paddles, the tuba would lose its intoxicating power.
Until late years, the general use of money was unknown in the
capital. When I first visited it, ordinary commercial transactions were
carried on in pieces of gray shirting, valued at 12s. 6d.; of nankin,
valued at 10d.; and of bits of iron, worth about a farthing: the last
were manufactured by cutting off pieces of an inch long from a bar of
English iron, the common size of which was an inch and a half in
breadth by half an inch in thickness. Now, neither the nankin nor the
iron circulates, their places being taken by English copper coin and
China cash. The gray shirting still holds its place, but its value is
fallen, and lately it has ranged from 6s. to 8s. The Brunei
government, to prevent the constant disputes that arose, made it a
legal tender at 6s. 8d. Mexican dollars are now becoming plentiful.
One other article is also much used as money, and that is brass
guns. In buying and selling you constantly hear, “I will give so many
pounds, or hundredweights, of gun-metal.”
The Borneans are famous for their manufacture of brass guns,
which are constantly cast in their frail houses to the imminent danger
of the neighbourhood. They principally turn out small wall-pieces,
and now trust much for their metal to selected Chinese brass cash.
The Malays are clever at this work: a Javanese has lately cast an
excellent 12-pounder brass howitzer for the Sarawak Government.
Sulu used to be very famous for its krises; now Brunei is attempting
to rival her, and has produced some very handsome weapons. In
both places they prefer the iron that is taken off the bales of English
cotton goods, as the toughest and the best.
The custom my brother Bayle mentions in his Levantine Family of
preserving an article for years, rather than lower its price, is very
common in Brunei. Jeludin Hitam, a rich trader, purchased, in his
younger days, a large quantity of camphor, white birds’ nests, and
pearls, and received, in payment of some other goods, several
hundred pieces of gray shirting, at 12s. 6d. The breaking out of the
Chinese war of 1841 lowered the price of all articles intended for that
market. He tried to sell at former rates, but no one would buy; he
refused to lower his price, so kept the goods till his death in 1859.
On examining them it was found that the gray shirtings were rotten,
and had to be thrown away, while all his other goods were sold for
half their former value. A native always asks a higher price than he
intends to take, as he knows his customer will “tawar,” or cheapen.
I may add that on the death of Jeludin Hitam the sultan declared
himself his heir, and succeeded to all his property, which, however,
did not amount to half that was expected, as it was whispered the
daughter concealed a large amount of the gold. When Makota was
slain, the sultan took possession of his property, but the most active
search failed in finding any gold, though it was well known that he
had been accustomed to invest all his money in moidores. But the
fact was, Makota did not trust his wife, and therefore always carried
his wealth about with him in a box, and after his death it was
secreted by one of his sons who happened to be in the same district
at the time his father was killed.
 CHAPTER XI.
SARAWAK AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.

First Visit—Appearance of the Country—Scenery—Lovely Isles—

Turtle—Method of Securing their Eggs—Their Enemies—Fish—
The Dugong—Method of Capturing them—Graves of Englishmen
at Po Point—First Evening in Borneo—A Welcome to the Rajah—
Boats—Salute and Manning Yards—The Muaratabas Entrance—
The River—The Town of Kuching—Sunset—Arrival—A noisy
Procession—Extent of Sarawak—A well-watered Country—The
Rejang—Extent of fertile Soil adapted to Sugar—Its Inhabitants—
Different Races and Tribes—Population—Kuching, the Capital—
Increase—Trade—Sago districts—Cotton—Seed sent by the
Cotton Supply Association—Imported Labour required—
Increased Production—Inferior Cultivation—Soil adapted to most
Tropical Productions—Water communication—Minerals—Coal,
Antimony, and Gold—Indications of other Minerals—Former
Condition of the Country—Difficulties of Management—Forced
Trade—Comfortable Position of the Dayaks—Influence of New
System on the Malays—Distant Voyages—Remarkable Honesty
—Anecdote—System of Government—An Unteachable Chief—
Sons of Patinggi Ali—Their Good Conduct—Effect of Associating
the Natives in the Government—The System introduced into all
the Dependencies—Effect of Sir James Brooke’s Government—
Anecdote of an old Chief—Gradual Development—Necessity for
Support—The Chinese an Industrious and Saving Nation—
Soundness in the System of Government—England with a
Chinese Colony—Future of Borneo—Chinese amalgamate with
Native Population—Female Emigration from China—
Administration of Justice—The Sarawak Courts—Character of the
Malays.
 T. Picken, lith.
Published by Smith, Elder & Day & Son, Lithrs to the Queen.
Co. 65, Cornhill, London.
GOVERNMENT HOUSE __ SARAWAK 1860.
Sarawak and its dependencies next claim my attention, and I will
give an account of my first visit to that place, as the notes I then
made are more likely to present a true picture than any written
subsequently. On August 31, 1848, we came in sight of Borneo; it
was a dull and misty day, and the shores were not clearly visible, but
the next morning it was bright and showed us in all its perfection the
lovely country that skirts the shore between Datu and Sipang points.
At first it appeared a confused mass of mountains, but the eye soon
began to distinguish its varied features. The massive and lofty range
of Poé bounded the scene to the westward, while the Matang
occupied the centre of the picture, and the peak of Santubong and
the Sipang hills completed it to the eastward. Between these are
many lower ranges, and beyond could be seen various ridges and
single mountains forming a background.
 Though these high lands first attract the eye, yet it rests with
greater pleasure on the beautiful valleys between, and none more
beautiful than that at the foot of the Poé mountains, which stretches
as far as the eye can reach, and imperceptibly mingles with the
neighbouring hills. Taken as a whole, it is a very beautiful bay, and
lovely are the isles scattered about it. Every traveller is enthusiastic
about the appearance of these little gems, which rise verdant from
the water’s edge to the very summit; or rendered more bright by a
narrow beach of shining yellow sand that skirts the shores.
The first two are called Talang Talang, and on these are collected
the turtles’ eggs. From the larger a broad sandy flat extends to the
southward, and on this, during the prevalence of the south-west
monsoon the turtles lay their eggs. There are men on the look-out
near, and as soon as the animals have dug holes, deposited the
eggs, and carefully covered them over, the watchers stick little flags
in the sand to mark the spots. In the morning they open them out
and procure immense supplies of these eggs, which are exported to
all the neighbouring countries. Though the turtles do occasionally
frequent the surrounding isles, it is only here that they are plentiful.
The Malays are eager in the search, yet fortunately very many
nests escape their rapacity. But the dangers to the turtle do not end
here: when the little things burst up from the sand, they find enemies
in every direction. The voracious kites soaring above pounce on their
defenceless prey, even the land crab seizes them and bears them
away, and when the remainder escape to the water, hundreds of
sharks and other voracious fish are there to devour them; it is
astonishing that so many elude their enemies. A turtle’s egg tastes to
me like a stale and fishy duck’s egg. The sandy beaches of these
isles are always to the southward, as they are not exposed to the
fierce blasts of the north-east monsoon. The next islets near the
Santubong entrance of the Sarawak river, are Sampadien and the
two Satangs. On all are at present extensive groves of cocoa-nut
trees, which form a marked contrast to the neighbouring jungle.
It is very curious that the fish should frequent this bay so very
irregularly. Some years the supplies are ample, at other seasons it
scarcely pays to search for them. The dugong, called by the Malays
duyong, is occasionally secured off the small islands in this bay;
there is a famous fisherman in Sarawak, named Pa Sipi, who is
expert in all accomplishments appertaining to his craft, and I have
heard the natives say that when a duyong is seen, he used
cautiously to approach it, and being always the foremost man, he
hurled his fishing spear at it, and very shortly after, if he were obliged
to let go his hold of the weapon, the animal would rise again to the
surface. The fishing spear is called a sarampang, and is usually
made with a treble-pronged iron point, fitted loosely into the end of
the spear, and secured by a stout lashing of rattans to the wood.
When the iron has entered into the animal, it comes loose from the
shaft of the spear, which is then only held to it by the rattan rope, and
it would be impossible for an animal thus encumbered to escape far.
Pa Sipi brought us once a very fine duyong, which measured nearly
eight feet in length, and its flesh tasted very much like coarse beef.
We moved along under easy sail, and anchored near the
Muaratabas entrance of the Sarawak river. The land here is very
bold, particularly Sipang and Po points.
We sent a boat up the Santubong as we passed the entrance, to
give notice at the town of our arrival, and in the evening we landed
for a walk in a deep nook to the westward of Point Po; here, just
above the sandy beach, were the graves of several Englishmen,
among others of Lieutenant Mathews, of H.M.S. Iris: a simple granite
stone marked the spot; the wild pigs, however, had desecrated the
graves and overturned the tablet; so the latter was subsequently
removed to the church-yard in Sarawak. We amused ourselves
about the edges of the forest in searching for a good watering-place.
To me this evening was inexpressibly delightful, as I wandered about
this quiet pretty spot, and thought how agreeable an introduction it
was to Bornean life. After dark we waded to our boats, and the crews
enlivened the evening by singing in chorus till we neared the ship.
Twenty deep voices sounded well over this still and starlit sea. For
the first time I saw some Lingga Dayaks to-day, and as they
happened to be dressed as Malays, my first impression was that it
would be difficult to distinguish between them.
 About ten o’clock the following morning native war-boats
commenced issuing from the Muaratabas, and sailing towards us.
They were the Sarawak people come to welcome back their English
rajah. There were twenty long light war prahus with tapering masts
and lateen sails, ornamented with flags and streamers, and all the
chiefs and crews were dressed in gala costume. The principal men
came on board, and it was interesting to observe the warmth they
showed to their adopted chief. Some of the Sarawak men were
striking-looking, but the nobles from the capital were the most
insignificant creatures I had ever seen; they were only remarkable
for the gold lace with which their jackets were profusely ornamented,
and that they were very gentlemanly, and more polished in manner
than their provincial neighbours.
About one o’clock Sir James Brooke left the Meander under a
salute, and the manning of the yards; the latter has always a very
pretty effect, and rather surprised our native visitors. When the firing
was over, the blue jackets gave three hearty cheers, and swarmed
down the rigging. Now was the turn of the war-boats, and they kept
up a desultory fire for an hour.
The Muaratabas entrance of the Sarawak river is a very fine one,
and has a depth of three fathoms and a half at the very lowest water
at spring tides; the contrast of the banks is striking: to the right a high
bold shore and pretty isolated hills; to the left a low flat plain with
mountains showing in the distance.
We pulled up with the flood tide, our way being enlivened by races
between the native prahus, but the frigate’s barge had no chance
against them; near the entrance is a rock that marks the watering-
place; it was here that Sir James made his first acquaintance with
the Dayak pirates, who attacked a Malay prahu under the very guns
of the Royalist.
With few exceptions the banks of the Sarawak river are
uninteresting; for many miles nothing but swampy ground and low
jungle of mangrove trees and nipa palms, with occasional glimpses
of distant mountains. Near the town, however, it improves, the land
becoming dry and bearing heavy jungle; between the mouth and the
town there were only a few fishing huts, and not a sign of cultivation.
Evening was closing in as we approached Kuching, the capital of
Sarawak, and the sun set brilliantly behind the Matang range, gilding
as it disappeared as wild and picturesque a scene as I had ever
witnessed. Our barge led the way up the broad reach, and was
followed by the twenty war prahus, and dozens of Dayak and other
boats that had joined the procession:—not a decorous Lord Mayor’s
pull on the river, but in the utmost confusion, amid gun-firing, gong-
beating, racing, wild and frantic yells of delight, shouts of laughter
and of anger, as one prahu ran into another in their eagerness to be
in the foremost rank. As we rounded the last point we were surprised
to find the whole town brilliantly illuminated, and as all the houses
are built on the water’s edge, which reflected back the lights above,
the effect was very fine. Crowds were assembled to witness our
arrival, and yell, and answering yell, increased the confusion. Having
described my first arrival at Sarawak, I will proceed to give a short
account of its present position.
Sarawak, including its dependencies, extends from Cape Datu to
Kidorong Point, a coast line of about three hundred miles, and
presents every variety of surface, from the low fertile soil skirting the
river’s banks to the lofty mountains which rise in every direction
throughout the various districts.
It is one of the best watered countries in the world, possessing
several rivers of the first class, as the Rejang, the Sarawak, and the
Batang Lupar; and many of the second, as the Samarahan, the
Sadong, the Seribas, the Kalaka, the Egan, a branch of the Rejang,
and the Bintulu; rivers of the third class are also numerous, as the
Lundu, the Mato, the Oya, and the Muka.
The last three, though small, are still very important, as they run
through the great sago-producing districts, possessing forests of that
palm, which are as yet perfectly unexplored, having only lately been
ceded to Sarawak.
The finest river, however, is the Rejang, which has a deep
entrance, not less than five fathoms at high water, and, when inside
the bar, never carries less, for above one hundred and thirty miles. A
geographical description of the country, however, is not necessary,
as I have in previous chapters given an account of the principal
districts, nearly all of which I visited in the course of my tours.
Sarawak possesses an immense extent of fertile soil, a very large
amount being composed of alluvial deposit stretching for miles on
either side of the banks of the Samarahan, the Sadong, the Batang
Lupar, and nearly all the rivers before named.
Much of the soil is especially adapted for sugar cultivation, being
of a similar quality to that on the banks of the Pontianak, which I
have been informed by Dutch officers and planters has been found
far superior for sugar cultivation to the best in Java. In fact, nothing
but the want of labour has prevented the extensive cultivation of the
cane in the Pontianak districts: Chinese could be introduced with
facility, but these people have already given the Dutch so much
trouble, as to render the Netherlands government very jealous of any
increase in their numbers.
But before entering on the subject of products, I must briefly
enumerate the various tribes speaking different languages who are
now subject to Sarawak.
The Malays are scattered along the banks of almost every river
and creek, but the largest number is assembled at the capital,
Kuching.
The Chinese, of whom I shall treat hereafter, are principally found
in Sarawak, though a few hundreds are now working gold on the
Batang Lupar, and traders abound at every place where profit can be
obtained.
The Indian races are represented by very few members.
The Land Dayaks occupy a portion of Lundu, with the entire
interior of Sarawak, Samarahan, and Sadong.
The Sea Dayaks include the Sibuyaus, who are scattered through
the various districts, and the inhabitants of the Batang Lupar, the
Seribas, Kalaka, and the branch streams on the left-hand bank of the
Rejang.