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Costume and Control Aztec Sumptuary Laws
Costume and Control Aztec Sumptuary Laws
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by PATRICIA ANAWALT
mented Aztecs of pre-Hispanic Mexico, who are ble for the distribution of the land according to
reputed to have tighdy controlled the dress of the needs and industriousness of each family. A
their sharply stratified society. The Aztec social surprising amount of mobility was available to
system was divided into five categories. At the top the free commoners through service to the State.
were the aristocratic lineages which included the As a result of prowess in warfare, even a man of
ruler, his relatives and other noble lines. These this class could attain a prominent position in
lords were supported by their private lands and Aztec society.
their sons were educated in special schools. Di- Below the free commoners were a group of
rectly below the ruling class were the highly spe- landless workers who maintained the estates of the
cialized artisans - those who produced luxury nobles. Since this group had no land-holding af-
goods - and the professional long-distance mer- filiation with its attendant usufruct rights, they
chants. Both of these groups enjoyed special were tied to the estates for their subsistence. The
privileges not available to the class below them. lowest class of Aztec society was the slaves who
The majority of Aztec citizens, however, were free had no access to land. Slaves owed their labor to
commoners who were organized into corporate their master who was usually a noble. A person
land-holding groups. Their elders were responsi- became a slave only through adversity which
34 ARCHAEOLOGY
Januaiy/Februaiy 1980 35
36 Archaeology
recovered. For the majority of the male popula- and tailored, most Aztec garments consisted of
tion these cloaks were tied over the right shoul- unsewn pieces of cloth, draped on the body as
der; certain nobles and priests, however, were al- loincloths, cloaks and wrap-around skirts. Slightly
lowed to tie the cloak in front, under the chin. To more complicated garments, such as women's
this stricture Sahagún adds that only the highest blouses and men's simple jackets, were created by
ranking nobles could wear sandals, except in the sewing together the selvages of two or more pieces
presence of the emperor, whom they should ap- of material. Throughout Mesoamerica, the size of
proach barefoot. this basic unit of clothing construction - a single
From these missionary sources, the following piece of handwoven cloth - was determined by the
rigid Aztec sumptuary laws can be defined: 1) the capacity of the backstrap loom. This simple two-
common people were allowed only garments of beamed weaving apparatus was attached at one
maguey, yucca or palm fibers; 2) only the upper end to a post or tree and at the other to the
classes wore cotton clothing; 3) the decoration, weaver's waist. The resulting product was a rela-
colors and amount of feather work permissible on tively narrow web of material, finished on all four
upper class garments were clearly specified; and sides, which could be put to use without further
4) the manner of wearing cloaks, sandals and or- processing. The manufacture of these textiles was
naments was tightly controlled. What emerges is a the sole domain of women, and it was a major as-
picture of a sharply stratified Aztec society in pect of their life throughout Mesoamerica. While
which the appropriate apparel for each class, even watching her young children, a mother aided by
for each individual, was precisely assigned by law. her older daughters could weave the family's
Is this possible? Could a New World society have clothing on the backstrap loom in the doorway of
succeeded in completely controlling personal her house. Although neither the friars' accounts
adornment, an aspect of human behavior re- nor the codices specify how sumptuary laws af-
peatedly proved to be all but ungovernable in Old fected women, they probably dressed in a style
World civilizations? Did the good friars present a that reflected the status of their men; the priestes-
realistic version of Aztec customs and practices in ses, of course, were exceptions. The sixteenth-
dress? Or did they oversimplify? century sources indicate that women wove more
In order to understand the effectiveness of cloth than their own families required, creating a
Aztec sumptuary laws, it is first necessary to un-surplus of textiles which became an indispensable
derstand the fundamentals of Mesoamerican ap- part of the complex economy and social structure
parel. Unlike contemporary clothing, which is cut of Aztec society.
Januaiy/Februaiy 1980 37
When the Spanish first arrived in a.d. 1519 the workers than those of the tierra caliente [the coastal
Aztec Empire consisted of 38 provinces extending hotlands]. Thus some towns gave cotton and
from the Gulf Coast to the Pacific. Each of these others turned it into cloth."
regions was required to pay tribute on a regular Although all classes of Aztec society wore the
80-day schedule. This tribute then flowed to the same kinds of uncomplicated garments made
imperial capital, the island city of Tenochtitlan, from handwoven webs of material, the status of
modern Mexico City, located on Lake Tetzcoco in the wearer was differentiated by the fiber of the
the 7,200-foot-high Valley of Mexico. Tenochtit- cloth itself plus the type and degree of decoration.
lan, along with the lakeside cities of Tlacopan and The maguey fiber, assigned to the lower classes
Tetzcoco, constituted the Triple Alliance powers and known as ixtli in the ancient Nahuad lan-
that controlled the Aztec Empire. guage, grew in ample supply at the high elevation
The imperial tribute payments included both of Central Mexico. However, the status fiber of the
raw materials such as feathers, gems and unpro- upper classes, cotton or ichcatl, could not be grown
cessed cotton as well as fabricated goods, including at elevations above 6,000 feet and had to be im-
woven cloth, which may or may not have been ported from the tropical coastal hotlands either
produced in the province where its basic fiber was through trade or the elaborate system of tribute.
grown. Cotton's role in this exchange was de- This supply of raw textile materials and finished
scribed by the sixteenth-century Spanish judge, fabric through trade and tribute made possible
Alfonso de Zorita. He speaks of the areas which the variety of clothing and decorations required
"did not grow cotton but worked it into a very by this stratified society's sumptuary laws.
good cloth. This excellent cloth was made by But in addition to serving as wearing apparel,
people of the tierra fria [the colder land of the textiles were also used as religious offerings, deco-
high Central Mexican plateau] who are better rations for sacred effigies, temple and palace
38 Archaeology
hangings, household items, dowry payments, mar- the emperor Moctezuma I, great-grandfather of
riage ceremonial accouterments, gifts for ritual Moctezuma II, Cortési adversary. During the
and social occasions, and wrappings for the time of Moctezuma I, a system of ritual battles
mummy bundles which were usually cremated. It evolved in which the Triple Alliance powers
is also known that large, rectangular pieces of fought neighboring city states. These famous
cloth, referred to as quachtli, were used as media "Flowery Wars" or xochiyaoyotl were a regularly
of exchange. Indeed, tremendous quantities of scheduled series of limited engagements which
woven cloth must have existed in the great urban took place at a specified time and location. Their
centers of the Valley of Mexico, which at the time purpose was neither conquest nor killing but
of the Spanish contact had an estimated popula- rather the capture of prisoners for human sac-
tion of two-and-one-half million. rifice. The Aztecs believed that the universe and
For both nobles and free-born commoners the its natural cycles would cease to function unless
their gods were sustained with the most precious
key to attaining the permitted degree of sartorial
splendor was their outstanding service to the of foods - the hearts and blood of man. As the
State. Although a noble was born with the rightchosen
to people of the sun, the Aztecs had a cosmic
duty
wear cotton clothing, the degree of its elaboration to maintain a continual supply of sacrificial
depended on his achievements. By the same victims. The ritual Flowery Wars were devised to
token, a free commoner could don some of the provide some of the necessary prisoners. The
society's more desired attire by dint of personalcontinual and far more prosaic wars of imperial
effort. For both groups the principal means ofexpansion further contributed to the supply.
advancement was warfare. According to Friar Durán tells us that these Flowery Wars created
Durán, this avenue of upward mobility was intro- a kind of military marketplace in which prestigi-
duced in the fifteenth century during the reignous of items such as lip plugs, arm bands, shields,
Long-distance merchants on the road. The pic to graph for a journey are the footprints. Each merchant wears a simple cloak
that is tucked up under his carrying board , the cacaxtli. The loads , reported to weigh up to 50 pounds , could be carried for
five leagues and were supported by the tumpline worn over the forehead.
40 Archaeology
scribes a game connected with a feast day of Mix- Recalcitrant nobles, Durán contends, were
coatl, the ancient hunting god of the Otomi, a forced by the Emperor to wear lowly maguey
neighboring people of the Aztecs. Young Aztec fiber capes as a form of punishment. In one in-
men formed a human rope to encircle deer, stance the Emperor penalized the lords of the
coyotes, rabbits and hares in an area. The youth conquered city of Tlatelolco for not making timely
who caught a deer or coyote was favored by the tribute payment: "The noblemen of that city were
Emperor with a special cape whose edges were no longer to wear splendid mantles. From now on
striped with feathers. Sahagún suggests that this they must use cloaks of maguey fiber, like people
mantle could be worn if one was a captor of an of low rank." Similar chastisement was given out
animal, but also "if one were not a captor, one by the Aztec ruler to his own captains, officers
and old warriors when they were badly beaten in
might only place [his cape] in a basket and sell it."
In the same book Sahagún discusses the festival of battle: ". . .justices were sent to the homes of the
the tenth month, Hueymiccailhuitl, when boys officers to shear their hair and take their insignia
competed to be first to scramble up a pole, the away from them. They were forbidden to wear
xolotl , to grab the image of a god that had been cotton mantles; from now on these officers were
placed on top. A brown-striped cloak edged in to wear cloaks of maguey fiber like those of the
feathers was awarded to the winner. The text common man." This harsh behavior is in keeping
points out, however, that "if one were not such a with the sharp class distinction proclaimed by the
captor, he might only keep one [such cape] in his sumptuary laws. Despite the idealized version of
care, and mayhap he might sell it when he was these ordinances, however, the documentary
poor or sick." From these two examples, it is evi- sources make it clear that not only the lower
42 Archaeology