Friday Tee English

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FRIDAY TEE

________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL
Measurements: Bust circumference: 90 (96) 100 (106) 116 (126) 136 (147) 156 cm [35½ (37¾) 39¼ (41¾) 45¾ (49½)
53½ (57¾) 61½ inches]
Length: 48 (49) 50 (52) 55 (58) 59 (61) 63 cm [19 (19¼) 19¾ (20½) 21¾ (22¾) 23¾ (24) 24¾ inches]
Gauge: 28 sts x 44 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] in broken rib stitch on 3 mm [US2½] needles after wash
and blocking
Note that the gauge before washing will be approx. 35 sts in 10 cm [4 inches]
Needles: Circular needles: 3 mm [US2½] / 40, 60, 80 and 100 cm [16, 24, 32 and 40 inches] and 2.5 mm
[US1½] / 40 cm [16 inches]
Double-pointed needles: 3 mm [US2½] (if the Magic Loop technique is not used)
Materials: 200 (200) 200 (200-250) 250 (300) 300 (350) 400 g Sunday by Sandnes Garn (50 g = 235 m [257
yds]) for the main colour (here shown in colourway 2511 Almond) and 50 (50-100) 100 (100) 100
(100) 100 (100) 100-150 g Sunday by Sandnes Garn (50 g = 235 m [257 yds]) for the contrast colour
stripes (here shown in colourway 3553 Dusty Rouge)
For a solid colored tee the total yardage is 250 (250) 250 (250-300) 300 (350) 400 (450) 500 g Sunday
by Sandnes Garn (50 g = 235 m [257 yds])
PATTERN
The Friday Tee is worked from the top down in a broken rib stitch pattern with raglan increases on the yoke.
The neck edge is worked in rib and then knitted together to form a double-knit neckband. Short rows are
worked on the yoke to shape the neckline. Sleeves and body are finished with a simple rib edge.
Begin by working a swatch to determine which needle size you need to achieve the correct gauge.
Remember to wash your swatch before measuring the gauge – broken rib relaxes and grows when washed.

Size guide
The Friday Tee is designed to have approx. 6-9 cm [2¼-3½ inches] of positive ease, meaning it is designed
to be 6-9 cm [2¼-3½ inches] larger in circumference than your bust measurement. The sizes XS (S) M (L)
XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL are designed to fit a bust circumference of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110
(110-120) 120-130 cm (130-140) 140-150 cm [31½-33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½) 39½-43¼ (43¼-
47¼) 47¼-51¼ (51¼-55) 55-59 inches].
The measurements for the finished garment can be found on the front page of the pattern. Before beginning
your project, measure yourself to determine which size to knit. For example, if you measure 90 cm [35½
inches] around your bust (or around the widest part of your upper body) you should knit a size S. A size S
sweater has a bust circumference of 96 cm [37¾ inches], which in the given example would give you 6 cm
[2¼ inches] of positive ease.
The model in the photos is wearing a size XS and has a bust circumference of 82 cm [32¼] and is 164 cm
[approx. 5 feet 4 inches] tall.

Pattern: Broken rib


The Friday Tee is worked in broken rib stitch pattern. Broken rib is worked as follows (see video on
www.petiteknit.com):
Round 1: Knit across.
Round 2: Work in rib *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 as many times as the pattern requires.

Stripes
The stripes are worked every 7th and 8th row/round. The first row/round of the stripe falls on a knitted round
of the broken rib pattern. When changing colours, let the yarn you are not using run up the WS of the work
(you may “capture” it every few rows/rounds) – this way you avoid having to weave in so many ends at the
end (see video on www.petiteknit.com). To avoid the little “step” or jog that happens when changing colours
see video on www.petiteknit.com.

Raglan increases
The raglan increases are worked on both side of 13 raglan stitches. The raglan increases on the right side
of the raglan stitches slant right (M1R), while the increases on the left side of the raglan stitches slant left
(M1L). The increases are worked as follows (see video on www.petiteknit.com):
2
M1R:
From the RS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, then
knit this strand.
From the WS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to back, then
purl this strand through the back loop (twisted).
M1L:
From the RS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to back, then
knit this strand through the back loop (twisted).
From the WS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, then
purl this strand.

Neck edge
Cast on 132 (136) 140 (144) 144 (148) 148 (148) 152 sts loosely on a 2.5 mm [US1½] / 40 cm [16 inches]
circular needle.
Join to knit in the round, making sure that the cast-on edge is not twisted, and place a marker for the
beginning of the round.
Work 14 rounds in rib (p1, k1). Note that the round begins with a purl stitch.
Purl across 1 round (folding edge).
Work 15 rounds in rib (p1, k1).

On the next round knit together the neck edge (see video on www.petiteknit.com) as follows:
Begin by picking up each of the sts of the cast-on edge and placing them on an extra 2.5 mm [US1½] or 3
mm [US2½] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needle (i.e. a total of 132 (136) 140 (144) 144 (148) 148 (148) 152
sts). Hold the two needles parallel to each other (the needle with the picked-up cast-on sts is held to the
back/at the bottom). Knit the first stitch on the needle together with the first of the picked-up sts. Continue
knitting together each stitch on the needle with one of the picked up sts all the way around – take care that
each stitch is knitted together with the corresponding stitch from the cast-on edge, so the edge does not
become crooked.

Work 1 round in rib (p1, k1). Note that the round begins with a purl stitch.

Yoke
The yoke is worked in the round in broken rib and shaped with raglan increases on a 3 mm [US2½] / 40 cm
[16 inches] circular needle. Change to a longer 3 mm [US2½] / 60 and 80 or 100 cm [24 and 32 or 40 inches]
circular needle along the way to accommodate the growing number of sts. Short rows are worked to shape
the neckline. The instructions for when to work the first stripe are given below.
Divide the sts on the needle for working raglan increases by placing stitch markers on either side of 13
raglan sts (a total of 8 stitch markers). The stitch markers are numbered 0 to 7. Marker 0 is the beginning of
round marker. Note that the first and last of the 13 raglan sts must be knit sts. Divide the sts as follows:
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Marker 0, 17 (19) 21 (23) 23 (25) 25 (25) 27 sts (back), Marker 1, 13 sts (raglan sts), Marker 2, 17 (17) 17
(17) 17 (17) 17 (17) 17 sts (right sleeve), Marker 3, 13 sts (raglan sts), Marker 4, 29 (31) 33 (35) 35 (37) 37
(37) 39 sts (front), Marker 5, 13 sts (raglan sts), Marker 6, 17 (17) 17 (17) 17 (17) 17 (17) 17 sts (left sleeve),
Marker 7, 13 sts (raglan sts).

The beginning of the round is marked with Marker 0 which also marks the transition between the 13 raglan
sts after the left sleeve and before the back sts. Note that the division of sts across the round is “uneven”
now, but will be “evened out” when the short rows are worked.

Now work short rows and raglan increases. The short row turns are made over the sleeve sts on both sides.
Use the German Short Row technique for the short rows (see video on www.petiteknit.com).
NOTE: Rows 1, 2 and the first part of Row 3 below are worked using the contrast colour. Work as
follows:
Row 1 (RS): Using the contrast colour work M1L, knit to Marker 1, M1R, slip Marker 1, k13 (raglan
sts), slip Marker 2, M1L, k5, turn (3 sts have been increased).
Row 2 (WS): Work turning stitch, work in rib (p1, k1) to Marker 2, slip Marker 2, work the 13 raglan sts
in rib (p1, k1), slip Marker 1, work in rib (p1, k1) to Marker 0, slip Marker 0, p13 (raglan
sts), slip Marker 7, M1R, p5, turn (1 stitch has been increased).
Row 3 (RS): Work turning stitch, work in rib (k1, p1) to Marker 7, slip Marker 7, work the 13 raglan sts
in rib (k1, p1), slip Marker 0 (change back to main colour), M1L, knit to Marker 1, M1R,
slip Marker 1, k13 (raglan sts), slip Marker 2, M1L, knit to 2 sts after last RS turn (meaning
knit to the turning stitch, then knit 2 more sts), turn (3 sts have been increased).
Row 4 (WS): Work turning stitch, work in rib (p1, k1) to Marker 2, slip Marker 2, work the 13 raglan sts
in rib (p1, k1), slip Marker 1, work in rib (k1, p1) to Marker 0, slip Marker 0, p13 (raglan
sts), slip Marker 7, M1R, purl to 2 sts after last WS turn, turn (1 stitch has been increased).
Row 5 (RS): Work turning stitch, work in rib (k1, p1) to Marker 7, slip Marker 7, work the 13 raglan sts
in rib (k1, p1), slip Marker 0, M1L, knit to Marker 1, M1R, slip Marker 1, k13 (raglan sts),
slip Marker 2, M1L, knit to 2 sts after last RS turn (meaning knit to the turning stitch, then
knit 2 more sts), turn (3 sts have been increased).
Row 6 (WS): Work as Row 4, incorporate new sts in established rib pattern.
Row 7 (RS): Work as Row 5.
Row 8 (WS): Work as Row 4.
Row 9 (RS): Work as Row 5 but change to the contrast colour at Marker 0.
Row 10 (WS): Work as Row 6 (but work in contrast colour)
Row 11 (RS): Work as Row 5 but change to the main colour at Marker 0.
Row 12 (WS): Work as Row 4.
Row 13 (RS): Work turning stitch, work in rib (k1, p1) to Marker 7, slip Marker 7, work the 13 raglan sts
in rib (k1, p1). You are now at Marker 0 which marks the beginning of the round. Now
continue in the round on the circular needle.
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The short rows have now been worked (6 turns on each side) and the neckline shaping is completed. There
are now a total of 156 (160) 164 (168) 168 (172) 172 (172) 176 sts on the needles.

Distribution of sts: Marker 0, 29 (31) 33 (35) 35 (37) 37 (37) 39 sts (back), Marker 1, 13 sts (raglan sts),
Marker 2, 23 (23) 23 (23) 23 (23) 23 (23) 23 sts (right sleeve), Marker 3, 13 sts (raglan sts), Marker 4, 29 (31)
33 (35) 35 (37) 37 (37) 39 sts (front), Marker 5, 13 sts (raglan sts), Marker 6, 23 (23) 23 (23) 23 (23) 23 (23)
23 sts (left sleeve), Marker 7, 13 sts (raglan sts).

Now work in the round in the broken rib pattern, while working raglan increases on every other round. The
raglan increases are worked on the knitted rounds of the pattern. Work as follows:

Round 1: M1L, knit to Marker 1, M1R, slip Marker 1, k13 (raglan sts), slip Marker 2, M1L, knit to Marker
3, M1R, slip Marker 3, k13 (raglan sts), slip Marker 4, M1L, knit to Marker 5, M1R, slip Marker
5, k13 (raglan sts), slip Marker 6, M1L, knit to Marker 7, M1R, slip Marker 7, k13 (raglan sts) (8
sts have been increased).
Round 2: Work in rib as the sts appear one row below (the new sts are worked in the established rib
pattern).

Work Rounds 1 and 2 a total of 30 (30) 32 (34) 36 (36) 36 (40) 42 times. There are now a total of 396 (400)
420 (440) 456 (460) 460 (492) 512 sts on the needles. Continue working stripes on every 7th and 8th
round.

Distribution of sts: Marker 0, 89 (91) 97 (103) 107 (109) 109 (117) 123 sts (back), Marker 1, 13 sts (raglan
sts), Marker 2, 83 (83) 87 (91) 95 (95) 95 (103) 107 sts (right sleeve), Marker 3, 13 sts (raglan sts), Marker 4,
89 (91) 97 (103) 107 (109) 109 (117) 123 sts (front), Marker 5, 13 sts (raglan sts), Marker 6, 83 (83) 87 (91)
95 (95) 95 (103) 107 sts (left sleeve), Marker 7, 13 sts (raglan sts).

The total number of sleeve stitches has now been achieved. Now continue in the round with raglan increases
on the body only as follows:
Round 1: M1L, knit to Marker 1, M1R, slip Marker 1, k13 (raglan sts), slip Marker 2, knit to Marker 3, slip
Marker 3, k13 (raglan sts), slip Marker 4, M1L, knit to Marker 5, M1R, slip Marker 5, k13 (raglan
sts), slip Marker 6, knit to Marker 7, slip Marker 7, k13 (raglan sts) (4 sts have been increased).
Round 2: Work in rib as the sts appear one row below (the new sts are worked in the established rib
pattern).

Work Rounds 1 and 2 a total of 2 (4) 4 (4) 8 (12) 18 (22) 24 times (i.e. until a total of 2 (4) 4 (4) 8 (12) 18 (22)
24 rounds with raglan increases only on the body have been worked). There are now a total of 404 (416)
436 (456) 488 (508) 532 (580) 608 sts on the needles. Continue working stripes on every 7th and 8th
round.
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Distribution of sts: Marker 0, 93 (99) 105 (111) 123 (133) 145 (161) 171 sts (back), Marker 1, 13 sts (raglan
sts), Marker 2, 83 (83) 87 (91) 95 (95) 95 (103) 107 sts (right sleeve), Marker 3, 13 sts (raglan sts), Marker 4,
93 (99) 105 (111) 123 (133) 145 (161) 171 sts (front), Marker 5, 13 sts (raglan sts), Marker 6, 83 (83) 87 (91)
95 (95) 95 (103) 107 sts (left sleeve), Marker 7, 13 sts (raglan sts).

Body
The body is worked in the round in broken rib pattern on a 3 mm [US2½] / 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches]
circular needle. The body is finished while the sts for the sleeves are resting. Begin by dividing the sts for
body and sleeves, while at the same time casting on new sts at each underarm as follows (see video on
www.petiteknit.com):

Knit 93 (99) 105 (111) 123 (133) 145 (161) 171 sts (back), k13 (raglan sts), place the next 83 (83) 87 (91) 95
(95) 95 (103) 107 sts on a stitch holder (right sleeve), cast on 7 (9) 9 (11) 13 (17) 19 (19) 21 new sts in extension
of the sts on the needle using the backward loop method, k13 (raglan sts), knit 93 (99) 105 (111) 123 (133)
145 (161) 171 sts (front), k13 (raglan sts), place the next 83 (83) 87 (91) 95 (95) 95 (103) 107 sts on a stitch
holder (left sleeve), cast on 7 (9) 9 (11) 13 (17) 19 (19) 21 new sts in extension of the sts on the needle using
the backward loop method, k13 (raglan sts).

There are now a total of 252 (268) 280 (296) 324 (352) 380 (412) 436 sts on the needles for the body. The
beginning of the round is still at Marker 0.

Work in the round in broken rib pattern until the sweater measures 46 (47) 48 (50) 53 (56) 57 (59) 61 cm [17¼
(18½) 19 (19¾) 20¾ (22) 22½ (23¼) 24 inches] from the folded neck edge measured mid back. Continue
working stripes on every 7th and 8th round. End after 6 rounds in the main colour before working the rib
edge.

Work 5 cm [2 inches] in the round in rib (k1, p1) on a 3 mm [US2½] / 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches] circular
needle for all sizes. Bind off using the Italian bind-off technique (see video on www.petiteknit.com).
Note that the sweater at this point is 3-4 cm [1¼-1½ inches] longer that the length given at the top of the
pattern. This will change after the first wash, when the broken rib pattern opens up and widens out – thus
shortening the length.

Sleeves
The sleeves are worked in the round in broken rib pattern on either 3 mm [US2½] double-pointed needles
or a 3 mm [US2½] circular needle using the Magic Loop technique. The sleeves are worked in stripes
following the same sequence as on the body.

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Place the sts that are on hold for one sleeve back on the needles. Pick up and knit 7 (9) 9 (11) 13 (17) 19
(19) 21 sts along the 7 (9) 9 (11) 13 (17) 19 (19) 21 sts that were cast on at the underarm on the body (see
video on www.petiteknit.com). There are now a total of 90 (92) 96 (102) 108 (112) 114 (122) 128 sts on the
needles. Join to knit in the round and place a marker for the beginning of the round in the middle of the
newly picked-up underarm sts.

Knit across 1 round, so the next round is worked in rib (k1, p1) as the pattern establishes.

Work in the round in broken rib pattern until the sleeve measures 11 (11) 11 (11) 12 (12) 12 (12) 12 cm [4¼
(4¼) 4¼ (4¼) 4¾ (4¾) 4¾ (4¾) 4¾ inches] from the underarm. End after 6 rounds in the main colour before
working the rib cuff.

Work 4 cm [1½ inches] in the round in rib (k1, p1) on 3 mm [US2½] needles for all sizes. Bind off using the
Italian bind-off technique.

Work the second sleeve the same way as the first.

Finishing
Weave in all ends. Wash the finished tee, gently pull it to fit the measurements given at the top of the pattern
and lay it flat on a towel to dry.
If the neck edge stretches with wear, a wool needle with a thin elastic thread can the threaded through the
center of the neck edge to help it keep its shape (see video on www.petiteknit.com).

7
Abbreviations
k knit
M1L make 1 left; left-leaning increase (see raglan increases)
M1R make 1 right ; right-leaning increase (see raglan increases)
p purl
RS right side of your work
st(s) stitch(es)
WS wrong side of your work
Mette Wendelboe Okkels ©COPYRIGHT 2021
www.petiteknit.com // Instagram: @petiteknit
This pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only. The pattern may not be copied, resold or
redistributed in any way. Nor may you sell any items produced using the directions in this pattern.
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Happy knitting!

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