Hill People Gear Equipage Taxonomy

Hill People Gear Equipage Taxonomy
V 1.1 – 9/8/2014
The HPG equipage taxonomy is a systematic approach to thinking about

backcountry living systems -- what you need to carry and when. For
seasoned backcountry travelers, it may serve as nothing more than a way of understanding
under which circumstances each piece of gear we produce is most useful. For everyone else, we
hope it serves as a good introduction to their own integration with a backcountry or austere
environment.
Our Equipage taxonomy is based on the very solid military taxonomy of first line, second line,
and third line. Since our focus isn't combat operations, we have made a couple of
modifications. First, we've added a couple of sub-levels (.5 and 1.5) that represent very real
distinctions in the gear we carry. Second, our taxonomy isn't universally additive - in the
military system it is understood that if you are carrying 3rd line, you are by default also carrying
1st and 2nd line. For our uses, the higher "lines" or levels often replace one or more of the
lower lines. For example, a backpacking trip consists of 0.5, 1.0, and 3.0.
Backcountry travel gear is the interface between you the individual and the environment in
which you are traveling. As such, there are an inevitable series of trade-offs in any equipage
plan:
 Different environments require differing equipage plans. Obvious, but worth re-
stating. There is a lot of overlap between environments, but there are some significant
differences. Our sample equipage plans (and even gear design) are biased heavily
towards travel in high desert to montane environments up to timberline in the
American west through all four seasons. This includes temperature ranges from -15f -
105f and ground conditions from dry to muddy to several feet of snow. Winds as well as
violent and spectacular storm events are fairly common. One attribute that is pretty
constant is relatively little precipitation. We've traveled a reasonable amount in the
Cascades and Olympic peninsula and understand what those environments are like. In
general, however, our precipitation plan is to not go where it rains all the time, and to
laager up until the storm passes when it is raining.
 Your responsibility for others. As a solo traveler, you only need enough gear to look
after yourself. But what if you want to be prepared to help others - either those you
encounter, or those you are traveling with? That can impact your equipage plan
significantly.
 The greater your knowledge of your environment, the less gear you can carry. First of
all, if you have a very good sense of the environment you will encounter on a given trip,
you can go light to start with on your shelter and insulation layers and be prepared to
bail out if you see that the environment is moving outside the boundaries of what you
September 8, 2014 1
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expected. If you aren't interested in a bail out as part of your trip plan, you go heavier. If
your knowledge of the environment and your sensitivity to it is in doubt, you go heavier.
In another example, if you have a good sense of where the more sheltered eco-niches
are in your environment (sleeping mid-slope in a dense copse of trees on a southern
exposure for example) and you make use of them, you can go lighter on shelter and
insulation layers than if you slept wherever you found yourself.
 The greater your skill level, the less gear you can carry. At it's extreme, a skilled
bushcrafter with a good axe, saw, fire starting materials, and something to harvest game
can build a cabin fit to survive the winter and with luck procure enough food to make it
through until spring. However, this approach takes a huge amount of time. Would you
rather carry an extra 3lbs and have a very snug little shelter that goes up in 10 minutes,
or would you rather start camp construction every day after your nooning so you have
enough daylight hours left to build a snug camp? Remember that if you are thermally
stressed or hurt, your skill level goes down significantly. Plan accordingly.
 You are always operating within an energy envelope and every equipment and
behavior decision affects that context. This is a very important concept that is rarely
understood or addressed by backcountry travel educators. At the beginning of any
journey, you have a baseline reserve of energy. This consists of your physical fitness and
your mental fitness and it goes way beyond gym time. If you slept poorly the night
before or are bothered by a personal problem, your overall fitness level is reduced
before you take one step of your journey. Your ability to travel and your decision making
ability are both compromised. Every step you take reduces your fitness level by some
amount. Every recovery period you take increases your fitness level. In life, but
especially in the backcountry, you should always be monitoring your fitness level and
making decisions accordingly. What does this have to do with gear selection? Here is an
example. You choose to travel with a modern "ultralight" load. Due to the much lighter
weight of your pack, your fitness level isn't reduced nearly as much as you travel so you
arrive at camp with a higher fitness level than you would otherwise. However, your
sleeping pad is a 3/4 length closed cell ensolite pad and your shelter is a simple tarp. It
takes you 45 minutes to get a good pitch on your tarp that protects you from the
prevailing wind because there aren't any really good spots where you are. An hour after
you lay down, you're still not sound asleep due to the discomfort of your sleeping pad. A
storm blows in and the wind reverses 180 degrees. Instead of sheltering you, your tarp
is now funneling wind and hail into your sleeping position. You throw on every piece of
clothing you have and re-rig your tarp in the middle of the storm. After an hour of
messing around, you're back in your bag and chilled. Finally you warm up and fall asleep
exhausted for a fitful few hours of sleep. Come morning, your high fitness of the evening
before is a distant dream and you're wishing you'd carried enough gear that the night's
storm occasioned nothing more than a smile and rolling over in your bed to fall back
into a deep and rejuvenating sleep. Or maybe no storm blew in at all and you wake up
still ahead of where you would have been if you carried enough gear to weather the
storm in comfort. A whole book could be written about the energy envelope and how it
affects backcountry decision making and equipment selection, but hopefully the
foregoing gives you enough of an outline to incorporate it into your own planning.
September 8, 2014 2
 You can't cheat the mountain. Bear Claw Chris Lapp of Jeremiah Johnson movie fame
uttered our favorite piece of wisdom and it always applies. It doesn't matter how
physically and mentally hard you are, there is some guy out there who is harder. And on
the one day that you happen to be the hardest dude in the world, the mountain can still
eat you for breakfast. Your equipage plan is a thin layer of insulation that, combined
with the appropriate measure of humility, might keep you alive another day until the
mountain eventually claims its due anyway. Plan accordingly.
All of these trade-offs, plus the arbitrary nature of any taxonomy, means that the HPG equipage
taxonomy is subject to much variation between environments and individuals. Regardless, it is a
useful heuristic for understanding how to think about integrating with your environment, and
how to evaluate the gear we produce in the context of how it will be a useful part of your
backcountry equipage.
September 8, 2014 3
Level 0.5 - Pocket
This is the minimum stuff you carry in your pockets. Chances are that it's the same list either in the front
country or the backcountry. This level is additive - you can be assumed to be carrying it regardless of
what other levels you're carrying.
Training
 Pistolcraft - We can recommend classes by Larry Vickers from personal experience.

 Medical Trauma - Something based on the TCCC military training is the way to go here.
 Situational Awareness - Pat McNamara's "Sentinel" book is a good starting point.
 Fitness - Get some.
Tools - Expected Use
 Pocket Tool - We're big fans of the long discontinued Leatherman Sideclip (4oz). If you
can find a used one for a decent price, get it. The closest current equivalents are the
Freestyle (4.5oz, lots fewer tools than the Sideclip) or the Sidekick (7oz, same tools as
Sideclip but with the nice addition of a saw)
 Pocket Light - The Streamlight Microstream is the only pocket light we're aware of that
matches all of our requirements. It is a 1 (AAA) light with a single on or off mode that is
activated by a stiff tail cap. The tail cap supports momentary on and click for constant
on. Small enough to carry in your pocket or hold in your mouth for hands free, bright
enough to use in the Harries Technique. It really does everything you could ask of a
pocket light.
 Handheld - Yes, it's a mobile phone and that's important. But it's also a stand alone GPS
unit with topo base maps of all of the mountainous terrain we might possibly find
ourselves in. And a very good compass. And some other tools. Read more here...
 Knife - We've experimented with fixed blades and folders. Mostly it's been beefy
folders. Emersons are very good -- and pricey. CRKT folders are also good and not nearly
as expensive.
Tools - Contingency
 Pistol and spare mag - Or no spare mag if you're carrying a plastic 9mm. Or do. Lots of
educated opinions on which pistol to go with. Even more uneducated opinions.
Browsing our firearms forum might help.
 Bandana - A silk bandana folded in a pocket doesn't take much space but provides
rudimentary trauma response, shelter, and insulation. If it's a bright color, it can also be
used for signalling. Western stores carry silk bandanas and also have them in larger
sizes.
Insulation
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 Lighter - Your only choice is to start a fire to create the insulation you need from cold
(the kind of exposure that people most often die from). Carry a lighter. We like the clear
plastic disposables.
Shelter
 Coat - Never leave the house without some kind of layer in case you end up exposed to
the elements. What you need is going to vary based on environment. Gloves in a pocket
of the coat are a good call, and if it isn't hooded, so is a beanie in another pocket.
September 8, 2014 5
Level 1.0 – Kit
This is the basic set of tools you need on the trail plus a minimal survival kit. It doesn't include water or
insulation, but includes ways of acquiring or manufacturing those things.
Training
 Wilderness Survival, Basic Fieldcraft - We haven't taken any of these courses ourselves.
Knowing the principals personally, we would recommend courses from InExtremis
(upper midwest) and SOLKOA (central rockies). If you have access through government
channels, Tate Inc. is also on the list.
This is going to be a mixed bag of items because of the variation between individuals and the
activities they're engaged in. Elements of survival are going to be common to them all.
 Headlamp - They get better every year due to the rapid improvement in LED
technology. We like something that has a couple of different brightnesses, a red bulb or
filter, and both flood and spot settings.
 Fire Starting Kit - At least two different tinders or accelerants and two different sparking
methods. Ours has lighter, flint & striker, a bunch of 1.5" square pieces of bicycle
innertube, and SOLKOA Fastfire. Ninety per cent of the time, the lighter and a piece of
inner tube is what we use to start a fire.
 Knife - We prefer a fixed blade knife that can be used for batoning and game processing
both. However, a compact L1 build might substitute a multi-tool with decent locking
blade and wood saw instead.
 Spoon - Mainly for eating with, but with an aluminum or steel one, serves other
unintended purposes.
 Camera - Not strictly necessary. For us, it's one of the tools of the trade and gets used
every trip.
 Optic - Environment and activity dependent. Anywhere with broad vistas you're going to
find yourself wanting something. Hard to beat a pair of Nikon Trailblazer 8x25s for size -
price - weight - functionality. We've also used the cheap $10 monoculars in this role.
Another great option is a compact rangefinder. Before you turn them on, they're a 6x
monocular. The newer Leupolds weigh 7oz and are extremely compact. If you don't use
your optic several times a trip, leave it out.
 Paper Area Maps - Depends on the trip whether this goes into this category or the
contingency category. Regardless, have some.
Tools - Contingency
For us, Level 1 is mostly about regular use field craft items. These are things that would be
considered contingency elsewhere. Nonetheless there are a few contingency items that find
their place into our Level 1 kits.
September 8, 2014 6
 Button Compass - 95% of our navigation is terrain association. 5% is GPS-based "where
exactly on the map am I"? The button compass is for the other 0%. Suunto makes one
that has a rotating bezel and arrow for coarse bearing work.
 Foam Ear Plugs - For extended shooting. Or if you're sharing a tent with one or both of
the Hill Brothers. In which case this is an "expected use" tool.
 Active / Passive Ear Protection - We've been using Surefire sonic EP3s for several
hunting seasons. You can hear well enough through them for regular activities but
they'll take the edge off if you take a shot or two.
 Ibuprofen - A few tabs in travel packets. If you don't know what these are for, you don't
need them... yet.
 Instant Coffee - Small enough that there is no cost to carrying some handy in case you
need it.
 Water Purification Tabs
 Energy Gel - We're using Hammer Gel
 Whistle - Test them. They're not all created equal. The SOL "Slim Rescue Howler" is a
good one.
 Mechanical Pencil and Notecards - For taking field notes or writing a SOAP report or
other emergency communications.
 First Aid? - At times, we've included FA items in a L1 Kit. A couple of the items still in the
kit can be used for first aid, most notably the handkerchief. The problem with FA is that
it is an even more remote contingency than the other items on the contingency list. If
it's something small, it'll keep. If it's something big (even less likely still), you need a
trauma kit and there's nothing compact about that. For now, a first aid kit doesn't make
our Level 1 cut, but it might make yours.
Insulation
With a Level 1 Kit, your insulation mostly comes from building a fire. However, you have a
couple other things as well.
 Gloves - We've used lightweight contact gloves and also leather gloves. Right now,
we're using leather palm nomex gloves as a good middle ground.
 Beanie - Lightweight merino is nice. Micro-grid fleece is another good option.
 Handkerchief - Lots of uses. For the past year we've been using Buff wear standard neck
gaiters which might possibly be more versatile than a standard handkerchief.
Shelter
Presumably if you're carrying a Level 1 Kit, it's in concert with clothing appropriate to the
environment. For a short stroll with just your Level 1 Kit, tie a jacket around your waist and call
it a day. For a more extensive shelter, build something with the tools in your L1 Kit.
Container
September 8, 2014 7
It's easy to think of a Level 1 Kit as being synonymous with one of our Kit Bags. To a large extent
that's true. However, a Kit Bag is usually pressed into service for more than just L1 items. On
the trail, you might stow your bug spray in it if bugs are bad or carry a couple of extra granola
bars and power gels to eat on the go. On the flip side, there are containers other than Kit Bags
that make sense in many circumstances. A compact L1 Kit in a zippered pouch is nice for
dropping into the bottom of a Tarahumara or messenger bag. A Tarainsert makes a fantastic
basis for an L1 build that can be moved from pack to pack to messenger bag to suitcase as
needed. Old school guys with an appreciation for belt order kit might choose to set up a Prairie
Belt with all of their L1 items and use it both stand alone and in conjunction with a pack.
September 8, 2014 8
Level 1.5 – Light Day
This is an improvement over the 1.0 level. It can be used in conjunction with 1.0, or it can be built as a
duplicate of 1.0 with an improved tool assemblage. In both cases, it adds water and insulation / shelter
elements. There is some focus on carrying tools to build an emergency shelter as opposed to carrying
appropriate shelter and insulation. This is suitable for everything from a civilized walk with the kids at a
state park up to a light and fast day trip in the backcountry with bail out options if things unexpectedly
turn.
Training
The training choices from Levels 0.5 and 1.0 apply here as well. Level 1.5 just adds better tools
and a layer of insulation and water to make that unexpected survival task easier.
 TP - Toilet Paper and hand sanitizer in ziploc bag. Use LNT principles, burying your scat
about 6" deep.
 Knife - We prefer a fixed blade knife that can be used for batoning and game processing
both. However, a compact L1 build might substitute a multi-tool with decent locking
blade and wood saw instead.
 Sunscreen - The small tubes are usually available in the travel section of the local
supermarket.
 Bug Spray - It's better if this is in the contingency list. Realistically, there are lots of
places where it is in expected use. DEET is the real deal and works. The higher the
percentage of DEET the better.
 Water Storage - Dual 1qt GI size water bottles are hard to beat. Perhaps a 1-2qt bladder
thrown into the mix for rehydration on the go. Or a small bicycle bottle for the same
purpose.
Tools - Contingency
 First Aid Kit

 Foam Ear Plugs
 Multi-tool - You can accomplish a lot with a multi-tool. Theoretically you've already got
one in your L 0.5 kit, but it doesn't hurt at all to double up on this in this case.
 Saw - 3oz Gerber slide out saw is a lot of bang for the buck weight-wise and cost-wise.
September 8, 2014 9
 Cordage - This is a place where a hank of good old fashioned p-cord is the right weight
and strength balance.
 Spare Batteries - Whatever makes sense. You don't want to go overboard.
 Water Purification Tabs - You're hopefully carrying enough water to get through the
day. If you're not, the purification tabs are your primary at this level.
 Metal Cup - Or pot. We like the stainless ones with fold out handles that fit over a 1qt
Nalgene because you can nest a small tarp inside of them on the bottom of your pack.
 Spare Magazine - If you're not happy with what's on your belt, a spare rifle or pistol mag
or two might make sense.
Insulation
 Gloves - Lightweight hard face contact style gloves are good here. Like the Outdoor
Research PL 100. Or the no-name ones you can buy at the end of the season in many
outdoor stores for under $10.
 Beanie - Heavy weight fleece or wool is compact but can do a lot for you.
 Jacket - In colder months, a lightweight puffy or vest is a good choice. Another
interesting option is a mid to heavy weight base layer like a merino wool hoodie. This
gives you something to change into after stripping off a soaked base layer. You might
choose to add a Mountain Serape. For us, something that large and capable doesn't
make the cut.
 Spare Pair of Socks - In their own ziploc bag.
 Sit Pad - Sometimes yes, sometimes no. The colder the season, the more yes. A foam
gardener's knee cushion or piece of closed cell foam works. As does a Crazy Creek
Hexlite.
Shelter
 Tarp or Bivy - For this level, we like a multi-purpose sort of item. The Hilleberg
Bivanorak is an excellent waterproof breathable pullover that can be drawn up at the
waist as a coat or down past the feet as a bivouac sack. Another good choice is a 5'x8'
silnylon poncho. Or army surplus poncho. The ponchos are better if you want to
construct a shelter for a reflector fire that could protect a couple of people, the bivouac
is better if you want to be able to just crawl into something with minimal effort.
Consumables
 Water - Target 1/2 a day of water at least in dryer environs.

 Snacks - Granola bars can be kept in a pack for months at a time and will get you down
the trail when necessary. Something like Pro-bars will go even better but aren't cheap.
 Drink Powder - Gatorade packets are cheap and easy to source. Hammer Heed is much
better for you.
 Instant Coffee - Nice mid-afternoon pick me up when you're hunkered under a tree
waiting for a storm to blow over.
September 8, 2014 10
 Energy Gel - The good thing about these is they're easy to move into a pocket for on the
go consumption. It's easy to over-extend yourself because you don't want to stop for
food. A gel shot of some kind eliminates that excuse.
Container
Due to the size and weight of this type of load, virtually any day pack will work. At the weight
this will come out to, it doesn't matter as much if you've got crappy suspension. Here are the
products in our lineup that lend themselves to this load:
 Prairie Belt - A fully loaded PB in a 33+ or 36+ size has enough real estate to accept the
load above. It's a stretch though.
 Tarahumara - A perfect choice for this load.
 Umlindi - A beltless Umlindi is a lot like the Tarahumara, but gives you a lot more
capacity and will settle the load a little better into your lumbar area due to the
framesheet and stay. With the above load, the Umlindi will be compressed to about half
capacity.
Level 2.0 – Go Bag
This level is qualitatively different than levels 1.5 and 3.0, which are more focused on tuned plans for a
well understood backcountry trip. It is more about carrying open ended tools to build solutions to a
variety of unexpected circumstances than it is on carrying elegant purpose built solutions to expected
circumstances. It is well suited to full day backcountry trips, and is also a good choice for vehicle and
international travel. It is often used in conjunction with level 1.0, but also typically duplicates everything
in that level as a backup.
This level is a ticklish one. On one hand, it is a heavy "be prepared" day load. That's an easy list
to draw from our personal experience. Maybe the easiest. On the other hand, it is a little bit of
a foray into generalist prepper land. With such an open ended goal, it is easy to go overboard.
We took a page from our friend Bart Combs of SOLKOA's book. We noticed that he always
starts with the form factor (container) he wants to fill and works backwards from there. Since
everything has to fit, you end up making trade-off decisions about what you think would be
most useful with the final arbiter being a certain size of package.
In our case, we chose to use the Umlindi pack as a container. It is the perfect size for a day load,
works very well belt-less for throwing in the back of a vehicle, but can be plussed up in load
capacity with the addition of a Prairie Belt. It is an innocuous and useful size. We built this list
up as everything we'd want for a day trip in the backcountry with an emphasis on being able to
care for a group. In some cases we chose an item that had more general 3rd world applicability
than 1st world backcountry applicability (for example, a water purifier instead of just a filter).
Then we added a couple of additional items / modules that you wouldn't choose for just a
backcountry trip to be more prepared for general 3rd world conditions. For these, we leaned
heavily on Ken Galbraith's years of experience operating in 3rd world countries with a minimal
supply chain. On a given trip, you can leave the "3rd world" items out or not as you see fit.
Remember, if you're carrying more than you need to on a day trip, it's either too much or
simply training weight.
Training All of the previous levels of training apply. In addition:
 Preparedness - Pat McNamara's "Sentinel" book has a good section on this type of
preparedness.
 3rd World Conditions - Fernando Aguirre's lessons from Argentina has some serious
warts and things we disagree with. However, it is still a valuable chronicle of a 1st world
country's descent into 3rd world conditions and some reality based observations on
getting along in that type of situation.
 Riflery - We recommend carbine classes from Larry Vickers (taken several) and In
Extremis (know the principals). We recommend practical rifle classes from Randy Cain
(personal experience) and In Extremis. If you get to the point with Larry that you can get
some clearing instruction from him, do.
 TP - Toilet Paper and large hand sanitizer bottle in ziploc bag. Use LNT principles,
burying your scat about 6" deep. The sanitizer is large because you want that to last as
long as possible.
 Knife - Keep it small if used in conjunction with our suggested hatchet.
 Sunscreen - The small tubes are usually available in the travel section of the local
supermarket.
 Bug Spray - It's better if this is in the contingency list. Realistically, there are lots of
places where it is in expected use. DEET is the real deal and works. The higher the
percentage of DEET the better.
 Water Storage - Dual 1qt GI size water bottles such as the Nalgene Oasis.
 Water Purifier - On a longer day trip, this is expected use. The only real choice is the
First Need XLE Elite Purifier. And yes, it is a purifier suitable for use in third world
conditions.
 Area Map / Compass / GPS
Tools - Backcountry Contingency
 Hatchet - Shelter construction, fire construction, self defense. Fits fully inside of an
Umlindi. A nice wood hafted one has classic appeal, but an Estwing is probably the best
choice for it's unbreakability.
 Water Bladder - A 4 or 6 quart MSR dromlite gets our vote.
 1 quart pot - More than you need for one person, but better suited to cooking for a
group or melting snow. The tarp will fit inside of it.
 Alcohol Burner - A Trangia burner gives you a way to heat water or food without having
to worry about creating signal smoke if that's an issue. Also quicker and easier than a
fire if you don't want to mess with a fire.
 Small Grate - For use with the alcohol burner, cooking small game directly on, or as a
useful addition to a longer term camp hearth.
 PLB or Satellite Communicator - We like the DeLorme InReach original.
 Mug and Spoon - A personal size insulated mug is a nice touch in conjunction with the 1
qt pot.
 First Aid Kit - A beefed up version with reference guide and broader selection of
medicines. Antibiotics and prescription painkillers if you can source them.
 50 ft 6mm accessory cord - Can be used to rappel in a pinch, plus all of the other uses a
good rope has.
 Locking Carabiner - Assumes you have either a rigger's belt or Prairie Belt HAK (High
Angle Kit - not currently made). Can be used as friction device.
 100ft 1-2mm accessory cord - Parachute cord is really overkill for most fieldcraft uses
and cutting down on thickness allows you to carry a *lot* more cordage.
 Signal Panel
 Signal Mirror
 Pen Flares - signalling, self defense
 Water Tabs - backup for the purifier
 Speedhooks - 3 of them are easy to carry and allow you to run a modest trapline with
minimal fuss
 Fishing Line and Sewing Needles - fabric repair
 Clear Garbage Bag(s) - shelter, water collection (transpiration bag method), sanitation,
etc.
 Spare Batteries - appropriate to your devices
 Carbine - food procurement, self defense
 Spare Ammunition
 Weapon Light - If you typically carry a light capable pistol without a light on it, having a
weapon light always in your pack is handy.
 Stuff Sack - An empty 815 Stuff Sack gives you some nice overflow capacity.
Insulation
 Mountain Serape - Very versatile for one, and can be useful for 2-3 as well.
 Spare Socks
 Newspaper Bags - For use as VBL in a pinch
 Warm Hat
 Light Insulative Layer - Something you can move in without over-wetting such as a
medium long underwear top or very lightweight softshell.
Shelter
 Large Tarp - A silnylon 8'x12" will create a nearly fully enclosed shelter for 3 or the roof
of a longer termed camp for more than that.
 Rain Coat - An oversize mountain parka is a good choice. Looks civilian, lots of insulation
can be worn underneath it. eVent or Dry Q Elite if you can get it.
 Leather Gloves - For straight backcountry use, some other kind of glove might be a
better choice. The protection afforded by leather gloves is useful in a lot of more
frontcountry cases.
 Sun Protective Hat
Consumables
 Lunch - If it's a day hike, take something nice

 Rations - Long term storage at low weight starchy foods such as instant oatmeal or rice.
Also, fats. Peanut butter is inexpensive and efficient.
 Spices - Salt for sure and others to be used in conjunction with procured food.
 Electrolyte Drink - In addition to helping you keep moving in hot conditions, if you get
some sort of stomach bug it may be the only way to keep liquids down.
 Alcohol - A spare flask for the alcohol stove might be useful. You can also re-supply a
variety of ways including HEET additive from a gas station or any other type of high test
alcohol.
Tools - 3rd World contingency This set of items can be left out for normal day hikes (along with
the hatchet) and then kept in the pack at other times for a grab and go option.
 General Map - A useful map of the area you might need to travel in. For example, a
regional road map with details of major metro areas.
 Kwikpoint Pointy Talky - Pictographic language-less translator
 Flash Drive - With scans of relevant personal documents and data, encrypted.
 Debit Card - Pre-paid disposable type
 Cash
 Silver
 Hand Tools - Again, we had to start with form factor (First Spear large GP Pocket) and
work backwords. The 2lb 3oz kit (including pocket) we ended up with is below. We'll
probably add more items to this hand tool kit up to the capacity of the container which
is only about 2/3rds full as we reflect on it.
o Vice Grips - 6". You might also consider the Leatherman Crunch. A vice grip can
be used as pliers, wire cutter, box wrench, and more.
o Crowbar - Small. Hopefully mighty.
o Center Punch - For use with hatchet. Sharpened on a bench grinder to make a
heavy duty awl suitable for leather, wood, plastic, and light metal. Think of it as a
primitive drill bit.
o Saw / Screwdriver Handle - This is a great concept. A general purpose handle
that can take both standard shank sawzall blades and standard hex bits. SOLKOA
makes a very nice compact one. We opted for a larger and more ergonomic one
from the local hardware store. Both are capable of being configured in an L-
shape which we think is essential for sawing and torquing in hex driver mode.
Supply with one long 6tpi wood blade, one shorter metal blade, and a small
selection of bits (both options come with some bits).
o Baggy of Fasteners - screws - stop nuts - washers in 10/24 and 1/4-20 sizes;
nails; long exterior screws
o Zip Ties - heavy duty
o Bailing Wire
o 6" Mill Bastard File
o Hose Clamps
o Bicycle Inner Tube Section
o Sharpie - wrapped with electrical tape and duct tape
Containers - Kind of a tautology since we've defined this as "what will fit in an Umlindi". You
could put this load in a Ute as well. Other daypacks might work, but beware that this is a 40+
pound load not including rifle. Very few packs the size of the Umlindi will reliably and
comfortably carry that kind of weight. We don't think you want this in a duffel bag because you
need to be prepared to carry this load on foot.
Level 3.0 - Sustainment
This is a multi-day backcountry setup. It is always used in conjunction with 1.0 and includes water,
shelter, and food appropriate to the environment in addition to a backcountry travel tool assemblage. It
differs from 2.0 in it's focus on tuned weight conscious solutions and a very bare minimum of open
ended "what if" tools
Training
 General Backcountry Travel - The Boy Scout field book is a good primer on backcountry
travel. Lots of breadth, and just enough depth so you know what you don't know. NOLS
has a good reputation when it comes to multi-day backcountry travel, but we have no
first hand experience. Time on the ground is what you need anyway. Start
conservatively and gradually expand as you learn more.
 Navigation - You'll need both map and compass and GPS skills. This is something you
can spend class time on, but really only comes together on the ground. The key skills are
map reading and terrain association with coordinate based (UTM or Lat / Long) GPS
usage as a backup. We don't know of any schools or classes that teach off trail route
selection. One clue - anywhere worth going in the western mountains probably has
game trails running through the choke points.
 Wilderness Medicine - Wilderness Medicine Institute is the leader in this space. Their
Wilderness First Aid course is a good primer on the subject. Really, health in the
backcountry is more about preventative measures -- First, avoid trauma by moving
cautiously and carefully and being aware of your energy envelope so you don't get into
a space where a fall is more likely. Second, avoid "generic flu like symptoms" (AMS,
dehydration, hyponatremia, etc.) and exposure issues by moving cautiously and
carefully and being aware of your energy envelope. See the pattern?
 Fitness - Carrying a pack is a whole other kind of work. Cardio workouts like running or
mountain biking help. Things like climbing stairs help. But all of the little stabilizer
muscles necessary to walk on trail, let alone off trail, with a load can only be built by
walking on uneven surfaces with a pack on.
 Listen to the Mountain - The one trait that most typifies a successful backcountry
traveler is open mindedness. Even in a long familiar area, there is always some nuance
or secret waiting to be discovered if you pay attention. The weather forecast you pull up
in advance of a trip counts for something, but if you observe all of the elk tracks headed
down country, that counts for even more. That's something you'll miss if you think you
already got all of the answers from NOAA.gov. If you're headed to a completely new
area, paying attention to what the mountain has to tell you may be all you have to go
on.
 Level 0.5 and Level 1 Kit - The Level 1 Kit is always carried in concert with Level 3, and
only some of them are duplicated in the pack itself. On the 0.5 Kit, sometimes the folder
is left home so it doesn't duplicate the fixed blade in the Level 1 Kit.
 Cookset - Most folks have gravitated towards one pot meals or even freezer bag
cooking. Cookset consists of a single pot and a stove. Our favorite is the GSI Halulite
Minimalist with a Trangia alcohol stove and a custom pot stand / windscreen and (4) 1oz
fuel bottles nested inside. Alcohol stoves can't be beat for simplicity, reliability, and
cost; and the Trangia is the best choice. It's bombproof, allows you to carry fuel in the
stove, and also allows you tamp out the burner when you've done the cooking you need
to.
 Water Filter - In our experience, you need a pump filter so you can get water up out of
small sources. In the country we travel, the model of dipping a bag into a pond or
something and doing a gravity feed is a luxury, not something to be depended on. We've
used the Sweetwater Guardian for years. This does *not* purify water, so it's not for
third world uses. Once our current filters are ready for replacement, we'll switch to the
First Need XLE Elite Purifier because the reliability and serviceability are about the same
but you get purification as well. Do NOT use one of the UV based systems like the
Steripen. The Steripen has been proven in laboratory testing to not actually render
water inert.
 TP and hand sanitizer
 Inflatable Pillow - A good night's sleep is essential. If you plan to use your spare layer as
a pillow, you're probably carrying too much insulation. A Kit Bag makes a good basis, but
isn't thick enough for side sleepers. Exped UL Air pillow on top of a Kit Bag is perfect.
 Crazy Creek Chair - We'll use the brand name here because they (so far as we know)
invented the segment. This is the closed cell foam with the stiffeners and side straps
that clip together to create a chair. Very nice for sitting up and watching critters, or
sitting in your tent reading through a storm. With the side straps unclipped, it becomes
a 3/4 closed cell foam pad to supplement your air mattress and as backup if your air
mattress fails.
 Water Storage - Depends on environment. Current standard is (2) GI 1qt bottles in wand
pockets and (2) .75 qt water bottles in bottle holsters on Prairie Belt.
 Area Specific Paper Maps
Tools - Contingency
You can go overboard very quickly in this area and add pounds you carry and never use.
Remember that you should be carrying enough shelter and insulation to not be in an open
ended survival situation. If you're already carrying enough equipment to live in the
environment you're entering, what exactly is your "I'm carrying this just in case" scenario?
There may be one worth preparing for, but think it through rationally. When we were kids in
Alaska, the "what if" scenario was that you ended up having to pass the winter somewhere.
That still influences our thinking, but even in Alaska it is turning into an increasingly remote
likelihood.
 First Aid Kit - We'll cover this more in detail elsewhere.

 Spare boot laces
 Saw - At 3oz, the Gerber slide out saw is something you can construct a serious shelter
with if need be. It's also plenty of saw for feeding smaller woodstoves.
 915 Stuff Sack - Carried empty. Lots of overflow capacity if you need it.
 Cordage - paracord is the classic, but bulky and somewhat heavy. 1mm or 2mm
accessory cord is a good substitute. for hanging a bear bag if you deem it necessary,
gear repair, and emergency shelter construction.
 Spare Water Storage - Currently carrying MSR Dromlite 4 liter bladder.
 Fire Starting Kit - duplicate backup
 Personal Locator Beacon - You're choice if and what. We're using the DeLorme InReach.
You can get to lots more information via the dedicated forum thread.
 Signal Panel - lightweight high viz.
 Signal Mirror
 Bug Spray - In some locales, mandatory. We try to avoid those but do carry some in
case.
 Sunscreen - You should be using long sleeves, long pants, and a hat. Good to have
sunscreen for ears and face particularly at higher altitudes though.
 Spoon - duplicate backup. forget to put your primary back in your KB after washing it in
the dish washer and you'll be glad you have the duplicate.
 Water Purification Tabs - backup for the filter.
 Sunglasses - don't like using them because they interfere with ability to see things in the
woods. sometimes they're mandatory anyway.
 Spare Batteries - we've recently settled on the Goal Zero battery pack because it
provides (4) AA batteries or the ability to recharge a mobile device in the same package.
 Small GPS - Our primary GPS has been our mobile devices for a couple of years now
with one hiccup. Nonetheless, at the weight of a Garmin Foretrex, it doesn't hurt to still
carry it as a backup.
Insulation
Insulation includes everything necessary to keep you warm. It consists of sleeping system,
clothing, and external heat sources such as a stove. If you think of all of those items collectively
as insulation, it is easier to get a direct handle on how much of it you're carrying and where you
can cut weight. For example, if you're carrying a wood stove, do you need that extra puffy
jacket you carry for emergencies? Isn't your wood stove the extra margin of safety you need?
Maybe. It depends on how capable of getting your stove assembled and producing heat you
think you're going to be after pushing yourself too late into the day. Another area where
insulation gets duplicated much of the time is sleeping system and clothing. If you're not
wearing most of the clothing you have to bed, you're duplicating. Here are some factors to take
into account when you're working on dialing in your insulation:
 Environment - The amount of insulation you need on a coastal plain is likely not the
amount you need high in the mountains.
 Body Fat - If you've got a really low BMI, you're coming from behind when it comes to
staying warm.
 Dietary Intake - If you travel mostly on subsistence rations, you're going to need to have
extra layers to account for the fact that your furnace isn't producing as much heat.
 Energy Envelope - If you are one who perpetually pushes yourself to the limit in the
backcountry, you're much more likely to need extra layers because you take your body
to a place where it can't care for itself. If you work with the land and are conservative
about your movements, you'll need less. Consider the Mexican proverb, in which the
sun is colloquially known as "the cloak of the poor". Pay attention to when and where
the animals move and learn from that.
You're going to have to spend some time getting dialed in on what insulation you should carry.
Here's a sample of insulation that works 3 seasons in the Rockies - down to about 10f:
 20 degree sleeping bag (like TNF Cat's Meow). If temps down to 10f aren't anticipated, a
40 degree bag is a common choice.
 HPG Mountain Serape
 Thermarest NeoAir Trekker
 Crazy Creek Hexlite 2.0
 lightweight long underwear top and bottom
 REI Endeavor Vest
 Softshell pants
 (3) pairs socks
 Lightweight merino beanie
 Contact gloves (in level 1.0)
 Wood Stove
Yes, that's it. No more needed. As things get colder, or more exposure is anticipated (like if
you're going to be sitting up on a meadow in the pre-dawn darkness), here are some other
items that we've found very useful as part of an insulation system:
 ultralight puffy pants like the Patagonia micro Puff

 ArcTeryx Atom LT
In general, we've found it very hard to ever justify fleece given the compressibility / weight to
warmth ratio of synthetic puffies like the above two items.
Shelter
Shelter includes what you shield yourself from the elements with both when you're asleep and
also during the day. In some cases, you can use both in conjunction. For example, a hard shell
parka pulled over the foot of your sleeping bag makes for a mini bivy. When it comes to tents,
we prefer floorless mostly for ease of living and weight savings. Remember that the larger the
shelter the more you have to work to keep it warm, whether from body heat or from a
woodstove. You want enough room to feel comfortable and no more. Also consider the
conditions you'll be pitching in. Tipis (both dual and single pole designs) are the winners at
weight to space ratio, but they rely on good stake placement for their structural integrity. A
well staked tipi is bomproof. A poorly staked tipi is a kite waiting to happen. Here's what we
carry for shelter from the elements:
 eVent or Dry Q Elite Hardshell Parka - These two fabrics are game changers. For the
first time you can use a rain parka for general use travel when it is colder. Prior to these
fabrics, a parka was a useless bit of weight in the bottom of the pack unless it rained.
You want pit zips and generous sizing for wearing over insulation layers (such as a
Mountain Serape) without binding.
 Gaiters - One of the above two fabrics is preferable but you can get away with
something less breathable (like GoreTex) for this application. Wear them under your
pants for rain, over your pants for post-holing in snow. Outdoor Research is pretty much
the final word in gaiters.
 1-2 Person Floorless shelter - The GoLite Utopia, with the mesh panels covered with
uncoated ripstop, is about the best we've found. No longer made, and no you can't buy
ours. The smaller offerings from Seekoutside like the Little Bug Out are good choices.
Another good option is a traditional floored tent that allows "fastpitch" fly-only pitching.
Consumables
Water, food, stove fuel.
Water, you need at least a gallon per person per day. Either carried with you, or re-supplied
along the way. If you're in an area where you have to carry extra water anyway, carry some of it
as fully hydrated foods. Don't get lackadaisical about water and your ability to have enough.
This messes people up all the time. Just because you're in the mountains doesn't mean there's
water up ahead. Also, beware hyponatremia. On a hot day when you're drinking plenty of
water and not eating much, you can induce a very dangerous low electrolyte state. We use
Hammer Heed in our water in situations like this to stay ahead of the curve.
Food is one area where you can add a huge amount of unnecessary weight to your pack quickly.
Backcountry food is a whole subject area that doesn't happen to be our passion. Target a pound
and a half a day per person with calorie dense foods. Check out our friend Sarah (Svien when
we met her) Kirkconnell's blog and books as a great starting point.
If you're using wood for fuel, the supply is virtually indefinite. If you're using something else,
don't forget that cooking over a fire is your backup cooking method. Unless you're using a
Jetboil. Something else to consider - how much extra weight are you carrying in fuel just to heat
your food? Does cold food make more sense? Or is the weather cold enough that putting pre-
heated items into your body core is a good idea? This is another of those energy envelope
considerations.
Container
Three to four seasons out of the year in most environments, the Ute backpack is a good choice.
Most likely paired with one of our compression panel choices. If you need to carry specialized
gear (more gear), or carry more than about 5 days of food in the fall you might need a bigger
pack. If your load gets much bigger than 60 lbs, step up to an external frame. In warmer months
in more temperate climates, an Umlindi with Prairie Belt could also work for you. If you're on a
budget, find a 90s vintage Dana Designs or Lowe backpack at a used gear store or on ebay for
around $100. These packs were better than just about anything you can buy today and many of
them are available on the used market in great shape. Level 3 also gets you into alternate
modes of carriage - watercraft, sled / pulk, and bicycle trailer are good muscle powered
options. And then there is motorized overlanding by motorcycle or 4 wheel vehicle.

Hill People Gear Equipage Taxonomy

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Hill People Gear Equipage Taxonomy

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Hill People Gear Equipage Taxonomy

The HPG equipage taxonomy is a systematic approach to thinking about

 Pistolcraft - We can recommend classes by Larry Vickers from personal experience.

Tools - Expected Use

Tools - Expected Use

Tools - Expected Use

 First Aid Kit

 Water - Target 1/2 a day of water at least in dryer environs.

Training All of the previous levels of training apply. In addition:

Tools - Expected Use

Tools - Backcountry Contingency

 Lunch - If it's a day hike, take something nice

Tools - Expected Use

 First Aid Kit - We'll cover this more in detail elsewhere.

 ultralight puffy pants like the Patagonia micro Puff

Water, food, stove fuel.

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