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 The Project Gutenberg eBook of An
account of the empire of Marocco, and
the districts of Suse and Tafilelt;
compiled from miscellaneous observations
made during a long residence in, and
various journies through, these
countries. To which is added an
account of shipwrecks on the western
coast of Africa, and an interesting
account of Timbuctoo, the great
emporium of Central Africa
 This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United
States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away
or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License
included with this ebook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you
are not located in the United States, you will have to check the
laws of the country where you are located before using this
eBook.

Title: An account of the empire of Marocco, and the districts of

Suse and Tafilelt; compiled from miscellaneous
observations made during a long residence in, and
various journies through, these countries. To which is
added an account of shipwrecks on the western coast
of Africa, and an interesting account of Timbuctoo, the
great emporium of Central Africa

Author: James Grey Jackson

Release date: March 8, 2024 [eBook #73120]

Language: English

Original publication: London: Printed for the author by W.

Bulmer and Co, 1811

Credits: Galo Flordelis (This file was produced from images

generously made available by the Bibliothèque
nationale de France/Gallica, the Digitální knihovna
Kramerius Univerzity Karlovy and the Royal Collection
Trust)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN

ACCOUNT OF THE EMPIRE OF MAROCCO, AND THE
DISTRICTS OF SUSE AND TAFILELT; COMPILED FROM
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS MADE DURING A LONG
 RESIDENCE IN, AND VARIOUS JOURNIES THROUGH, THESE
COUNTRIES. TO WHICH IS ADDED AN ACCOUNT OF
SHIPWRECKS ON THE WESTERN COAST OF AFRICA, AND AN
INTERESTING ACCOUNT OF TIMBUCTOO, THE GREAT
EMPORIUM OF CENTRAL AFRICA ***
 AN

ACCOUNT

OF

THE EMPIRE OF MAROCCO,

&c. &c.
 James Grey Jackson.
Engraved by E. Scriven (Historical Engraver to H.R.H. the Prince
Regent.)
from an Aquatinta profile by Mrs. Read.

Published Augst. 12th. 1811. by G. & W. Nicol. Pall Mall.

An Accurate Map of West Barbary, Including Suse and Tafilelt, forming
the Dominions of the present Emperor of Marocco, Containing several
Towns, & Districts never inserted in any former Map, By James Grey Jackson
1811.

London Published Augst. 30th. 1811. by G. & W. S. T. Neele. sc. Strand.

Nicoll Pall Mall.
 AN

ACCOUNT

OF

THE EMPIRE OF MAROCCO,

AND THE

DISTRICTS OF SUSE AND TAFILELT;

COMPILED FROM
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS MADE DURING A LONG RESIDENCE IN,
AND VARIOUS JOURNIES THROUGH, THESE COUNTRIES.

TO WHICH IS ADDED AN ACCOUNT OF

SHIPWRECKS ON THE WESTERN COAST OF AFRICA,

AND AN INTERESTING

ACCOUNT OF TIMBUCTOO,
THE GREAT EMPORIUM OF CENTRAL AFRICA.

‫العالم بارض ميالده‬

‫كالد هب في معدنه‬
Vide Proverbs of Lokman.

BY JAMES GREY JACKSON, ESQ.

ILLUSTRATED WITH IMPROVED MAPS AND NEW ENGRAVINGS.

SECOND EDITION,
C O R R E C T E D , N E W LY A R R A N G E D , A N D C O N S I D E R A B LY E N L A R G E D .

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR,

B Y W. B U L M E R A N D C O . C L E V E L A N D - R O W, S T. J A M E S ’ S ;
A N D S O L D B Y G . A N D W. N I C O L , B O O K S E L L E R S TO H I S M A J E S T Y,
PA L L - M A L L .
1 8 11 .
 TO
HI S RO YAL HIG HNESS

G E O R G E,
P R I N C E O F W A L E S,
&c. &c. &c. &c.

THIS ACCOUNT

OF

THE EMPIRE OF MAROCCO,

IS,

WITH PERMISSION,

RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,

BY

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS’S

MOST OBEDIENT,

MOST HUMBLE, AND MOST DEVOTED SERVANT,

THE AUTHOR.
Bloomsbury-square,
May 30, 1809.
 ADVERTISEMENT
TO THE SECOND EDITION.

T he very favourable manner in which the first Edition of this Account

of Marocco was received by the Public, and the flattering terms in
which it was spoken of by the most eminent Critical Journals of the
day,[1] afford me now an opportunity, in presenting a second Edition
to the world, of thus publicly returning my most grateful
acknowledgments, and at the same time of enlarging and improving
the work, and thereby rendering it still more worthy of public
approbation: this I have been enabled to do from my own original
notes, many of which were forgotten or overlooked in the first
arrangement of the book.
The new matter now submitted to the Public, consists principally
in a fuller account of the revenues of the state, several additions on
various other subjects, as the natural history of the country, its
inhabitants, and their modes of life, administration of justice,
treatment of children, and education of youth; some further
observations on the plague, and the diseases incident to the
inhabitants; a comparison between the ancient language of the
Canary Islands and that of the Shelluhs of South Atlas; Mr. Betton’s
philanthropic Will and patriotic intentions, manifested in his liberal
bequest to emancipate British seamen from captivity; cautions to
navigators; laws, manufactures, and customs of Timbuctoo; and, for
the amusement of the Arabic scholar, three Letters are introduced,
with their translations, to enable him to compare the Arabic of Africa
with that of Asia. Finally, there is scarcely a page that has not
received some additional matter or improvement.
 Indeed I have been anxious to discuss every subject that could in
any manner tend to illustrate the actual state of the Empire of
Marocco, being confident that the more these subjects are discussed
among us, the more they will merit our attention: and that, if ever the
interior of Africa is to be explored by Europeans, if ever we are to
reach the grand object of our research, the Emporium of Central
Africa (Timbuctoo), Marocco is the most eligible point to set out from.
But it is indispensably necessary that we should first overcome our
own prejudices and misconceptions respecting this country; we
should first secure to ourselves all those advantages which would
result from an active and uninterrupted commercial intercourse with
the principal Sea Ports of the Western Coast; and when these
objects shall have been accomplished, the rest will readily follow.
In the first Edition I promised that, should my labours meet with
approbation, I would publish the political history of Marocco: this I
had written, and intended as a second part to this Edition (indeed
three sheets of it were printed); but considering that the subject has
been before discussed, and being unwilling to trouble the public with
intelligence not altogether new, I have thought it expedient to
suppress it.
It is not probable that I shall do any thing more to this work, I
therefore now dismiss it as perfect as I can render it. The greater
part of it, I repeat, is the fruit of my own knowledge and experience;
and I have never spoken on the authority of others, but when I have
had opportunities of investigating the sources of their intelligence,
and when I have had every reason to believe their information
correct.[2]
J. G. JACKSON.
Burton Street,
Sept. 30th, 1811.

FOOTNOTES:
[1]Edinburgh Review, No. 28. Critical Review, Aug. 1809.
London Review, August 1809. Anti-jacobin Review, Aug. and
Sept. 1809. &c. &c.
 [2]Since this book first appeared, the Proceedings of the
Society for promoting the Discovery of the interior Parts of Africa
have been published in two volumes octavo. In the second
volume are two letters from me to Sir Joseph Banks, wherein I
observe the following errors of the press, which I take the liberty
here to correct: P. 366, for zahaht, read rahaht; p. 373, for
Alshærrah, read Emsharrah; p. 376, for Ait Elkoh, read Ait Ebkoh;
for Idantenan, r. Idautenan; for Kitrivæ, read Kitiwa; and for
Alsigina, read Emsegina.
 P R E F A C E.

T he following sheets have been compiled from various notes and

observations made during a residence of sixteen years in different
parts of the Empire of Marocco, in the successive reigns of Cidi
Mohammed ben Abdallah ben Ismael, Muley Yezzid, Muley el
Hesham, and Muley Soliman ben Mohammed; and which were
originally intended merely as memoranda for my own use; but shortly
after my last arrival in England, I had the honour to converse with a
distinguished Nobleman[3] on the subject of African knowledge, and
from his Lordship’s suggestions I first determined to submit to the
public such information as a long intercourse with the natives of
Barbary, as well in a political as a commercial capacity, and a
thorough knowledge of the languages of North Africa had enabled
me to obtain.
It was justly observed by Mr. Matra, our late consul at Marocco,
that “there are more books written on Barbary than on any other
country, and yet there is no country with which we are so little
acquainted.” The cause of this is to be found in the superficial
knowledge which the authors of such books possessed respecting
this part of the world; having been generally men who came
suddenly into the country, and travelled through it without knowing
any thing either of the manners, character, customs, or language of
the people. Indeed, the greater part of the compositions respecting
North Africa, are narratives of journies of Ambassadors, &c. to the
Emperor’s court, generally for the purpose of redeeming captives,
compiled by some person attached to the embassy, who, however
faithfully he may relate what passes under his own eye, is,
nevertheless from his situation, and usual short stay, unable to
collect any satisfactory information respecting the country in general,
and what he does collect, is too often from some illiterate interpreter,
ever jealous of affording information to Europeans even on the most
trifling subjects.
Leo Africanus is, with very few exceptions, perhaps the only
author who has depicted the country in its true light; and although he
has committed some errors, chiefly geographical, yet Marmol, as
well as many moderns, have servilely copied him. There is some
original matter contained in a book, entitled, “A Journey to Mequinez,
on the occasion of Commodore Stuart’s Embassy, &c. &c.” London,
1725. Lemprière’s Marocco contains an interesting description of the
Horem, or the Seraglio; but the rest of his account has many errors;
the map appears to be copied chiefly from Chenier, some of whose
orthographical errors he has adopted. The work of the last
mentioned author is the best I have seen,[4] and this is to be
attributed to his having resided in the country several years; and
though his ridiculous pride did not allow him to associate generally
with the Moors, yet a partial knowledge of their language, and his
natural penetration and judgment, enabled him to make many useful
observations derived from experience.[5]
It must be obvious to every one, that a considerable portion of
time and study is requisite to obtain a thorough acquaintance with
the moral and political character of any nation, but particularly with
one which differs in every respect from our own, as does that of
Marocco; he, therefore, who would be thoroughly acquainted with
that country, must reside in it for a length of time; he must possess
opportunities of penetrating into the councils of the State, as well as
of studying the genius of the people; he must view them in war and
in peace; in public and in domestic life; note their military skill, and
their commercial system; and finally, and above all, he must have an
accurate and practical knowledge of their language, in order to cut
off one otherwise universal source of error, misconception, and
misrepresentation.
Certainly no country has of late occupied so much attention as
Africa, and the exertions of the African Association to explore the
interior of this interesting quarter of the globe, do them the highest
credit; and if their emissaries have not always been successful, or
obtained information only of minor importance compared with the
great object of their researches, it is to be attributed to their want of a
sufficient knowledge of the nature of the country, and the character
and prejudices of its inhabitants, without which, science to a traveller
in these regions, is comparatively of little value. When we consider
the disadvantages under which Mr. Parke laboured in this respect,
and that he travelled in an European dress, it is really astonishing
that that gentleman should have penetrated so far as he did, in his
first mission; and we are not so much surprised at the perils he
endured, as that he should have returned in safety to his native
country. Had he previously resided a short time in Barbary, and
obtained there a tolerable proficiency in the African Arabic, and with
the customs adopted the dress of the country, what might we not
have expected from his perseverance and enterprising spirit?
Whatever plans future travellers may adopt, I would recommend to
them to lay aside the dress of Europe; for, besides its being a badge
of Christianity wherever he goes, it inevitably exposes him to danger;
and it is so indecent in the eyes of the Arabs and Moors, that a man
with no other clothing than a piece of linen round his middle, would
excite in them less indignation.
Mr. Horneman, in the above respects, certainly set out with a
more probable chance of success; though I much fear the
expectations which he raised will never be fulfilled. From his Journal,
indeed, he appears to have been of far too sanguine a disposition,
and to have relied too much on the fair professions of his African
fellow-travellers, an instance of which occurs in his letter from
Mourzouk, where he says, “Under protection of two great Shereefs I
have the best hopes of success in my undertaking.” Here the hopes
of success originate in the very cause that would induce a man
versed in the character and springs of action of the Africans, to
despair of success. It was the promises of these people that led
Major Houghton to his ruin; and the fair representations made by
some of them to the first emissaries of the African Association have
been proved to be false by the difficulties and dangers which their
successors have had to encounter, in attempting to penetrate to
Timbuctoo. The Shereefs are very plausible people; many of them
possess uncommon suavity of manners, which is too apt to throw the
confiding European off his guard, and make him the victim of their
artful designs; as to their information, it is not to be depended on;
they will say every thing to mislead, an instance of which will be
presently mentioned in the case of Mr. Parke. In another place Mr.
Horneman says, “In respect to my astronomical instruments, I shall
take special care never to be discovered in the act of observation;
should these instruments, however, attract notice, the answer is
ready, they are articles of sale, nor is there fear I should be deprived
of them whilst master of my price.” Nothing can evince greater
ignorance of the people than this; indeed I am surprised Mr.
Horneman could entertain such an idea. The mode of travelling in
Africa will prevent the possibility of his availing himself of these
precautions; there is no cafilah, or caravan of itinerant merchants
and traders in that country, which does not contain some person who
has either been to sea, or has seen nautical instruments, and knows
their use. That they are articles for sale would indeed sound very
well for a person going through Europe, but there are no purchasers
for such things in Africa; besides, no people under heaven are more
jealous, or suspicious of every thing which they do not comprehend,
than the Africans. The description of them by Sallust holds at this
day, and is perhaps a better drawn character of the modern African
(although it alludes to their ancestors) than any description which
has hitherto been given of this extraordinary people. These ignorant,
barbarous savages, as we call them, are much more sagacious, and
possess much better intellects, than we have yet been aware of.
The error above alluded to, into which Mr. Parke was led by a
Shereef, was in regard to the distance from Marocco through
Sueerah, or Mogodor, to Wedinoon, which he makes twenty days,[6]
when it is in reality but ten, as I have repeatedly travelled the
distance; viz. Marocco to Sueerah, or Mogodor, three days; to
Agadeer, or Santa Cruz, three; to Wedinoon four. There is also
another error in the same gentleman’s book, which it is proper to
notice; he says, Saheel signifies the north country; nothing but an
ignorance of Arabic could have thus misled him; Saheel in that
language signifying nothing more than an extensive plain; thus the
extensive plains south-east of the river Suse are called Saheel; the
low country near El Waladia is called Saheel; and if an Arab were to
pass over Salisbury Plain, he would term it Saheel. In these few
notices respecting the travels of two of the hitherto most successful
emissaries of the African Association, I have no other object in view
than to point out errors which may mislead those who follow them,
and I therefore hope, that they will be favourably received by that
respectable body, and by the authors themselves, should they
happily return to this country. I had written several remarks on Mr.
Horneman’s Journal, which I intended to give in an appendix, but as
they might create ill-will, and involve me in useless controversy, I
have suppressed them.
With regard to the following Work, it has been my endeavour
throughout, to give the reader a clear account of the present state of
the Empire of Marocco, and of its commercial relations with the
interior, as well as with Europe: on the latter some readers may
perhaps think I have enlarged too much, but it was my wish to be
particular, on that subject, and to shew the advantages which this
country might, and ought to derive from an extensive trade with
Barbary. In other respects, I have been as concise as possible,
introducing little or nothing of what has been satisfactorily detailed by
late writers on the same subject. In the Map of Marocco, I have given
the encampments of the various tribes of Arabs, and omitted such
towns and villages as are found in modern maps, but which now no
longer exist. The track of the caravans through the Desert to
Timbuctoo, is, together with the account of that city and the adjacent
country, given from sources of information which I had every reason
to believe correct. The engravings are from drawings made on the
spot by myself; but from the extreme jealousy of the natives,
particularly those of the interior provinces, and the consequent
difficulty of taking views without being discovered, trifling
inaccuracies may have been committed in some of them. Some
apology ought perhaps to be made for my language; but any defect,
in this respect, will, I trust be excused, when it is recollected that a
plain relation of facts, and not an elegant composition, was all I had
in view. Some readers, probably may express surprise, that I have
said nothing of the political history of the country; but this I have
reserved for a future publication should the present one meet with
the approbation of the public.
FOOTNOTES:
[3]The Right Hon. the Earl of Moira.
[4]There is a small volume translated from the French of the
Abbé Poiret, entitled, Travels through Barbary in a series of
letters, written from the Ancient Numidia, in the years 1785 and
1786, which contains many judicious observations. The Abbé was
doubtless a man of penetration, and understood the character of
the people whom he described.
[5]There is an interesting and, I believe, a very faithful account
of an embassy from Queen Elizabeth to Muley Abd El Melk,
Emperor of Marocco in 1577, in the Gentleman’s Mag. September
1810, page 219, in which the reader may correct the following
errors of the press: for Elchies, r. Alkaids; for lintals, r. quintals.
[6]See Parke’s Travels, 4to. edit. page 141.