Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Fault Finding A Build
Fault Finding A Build
Fault Finding A Build
Guitar FX Layouts
Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together
covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on
freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the
builds and please also visit us on Facebook and Twitter
Home Layout Guide Components Build Guide Offboard Faults Kits Forum Site Map NEW
The build I'm using in this guide for simplicity is an NPN silicon Fuzz Face I built a while ago: ► 2019 (9)
► 2018 (40)
► 2017 (123)
► 2016 (128)
► 2015 (46)
► 2014 (203)
► 2013 (280)
▼ 2012 (300)
► December (26)
► November (8)
► October (21)
► September (23)
► August (14)
► July (19)
and yes I know this one wouldn't work without transistors! :o) ► June (17)
▼ May (22)
► April (23)
3) Cold solder joints
► March (32)
If you're getting noise (or no sound at all) from your build, then a good thing to check is for cold solder joints. ► February (69)
► January (26)
► 2011 (16)
► 2010 (64)
You want all soldering to be shiny and so look out for dull looking points or pitted solder, and reflow if
necessary to make sure you've got a strong connection.
4) Unwanted Bridges
When you make a track cut in vero you always run the risk of leaving a burr that is making an unwanted bridge
across tracks which will almost certainly stop the build from working properly. Similarly solder can stray
sometimes to cross the groove between strips and cause the same problem.
If you've got a multimeter the best way to test this is to use the audible diode test to check for continuity
between consecutive tracks including points in the row which have been isolated by track cuts. So in the Fuzz
Face example this is where you would want to look for continuity.
If an unwanted bridge is found then use a sharp knife to cut between the tracks and break the bridge. It may
be worth using a magnifying glass to make sure nothing is left which could cause additional problems in the
future.
If you don't have a multimeter then just score between all the tracks with a sharp knife, or better still a small
hacksaw, to make sure there is complete separation.
I often come across problems with builds where a part was soldered to the wrong hole, or a cut misplaced and
again in most cases this would stop the effect working. With smaller layouts it's easy enough to go over
everything and double check but I use a visual method to help me check for placement errors. Anyone who
uses a graphics editing program like Photoshop or Paint Shop Pro should be able to do this easily enough, but
not everyone wants to mess around with graphics programs to fault find a build, and if that is the case then just How brave are you?
check your placements critically against the layout, counting holes to make sure everything is where it is
intended to be. You can ignore the rest of this section and skip to number 6. Unverified (111) Verified (1116)
I take a front and back pic of the board and then use the layout pic to create a semi transparent layer over the
top. For the top of the board just select right round the board layout and copy and paste it as a new layer over
the top of the front photo. Then you can make it semi transparent by setting the layer opacity. Then use a Type
deformation tool to line up the layout with the photo (it's easiest to try to lineup the vero holes as points of
reference). The results make it very clear where everything should go and highlight errors Acoustic (2) Amp (7) Amp Emulation (41)
Autowah (9)Bass (48) Blend (8)
Booster (147) Buffer (20) Charge
pump (22) Chorus (11) Components (3)
Compressor (30) Delay (24)
Distortion (259) EQ (17)
Filter (36) Fuzz (378) Gate (5)
Guide (7) Looper (1) Misc (5) Mixer (7)
Modification (1) Modulation (8) Noise (31)
Notification (11) Octave (41) Other (4)
Overdrive (392) Phaser (18)
Pitch (4) Pre-amp (26) Reverb (11)
Robot (1) Splitter (6) Swell (2) Tremolo
(25) Utility (25) Vibe (8) Vibrato (6) Wah
(28)
Popular Brands
If the above all looks good then we need something else to give us a clue to where your problem arises. The
best way to provide this is to measure the DC voltage between all transistors, ICs, regulators etc and ground.
Any voltage that isn't in the right sort of ball park will stand out like a sore thumb, so if you want help make
sure you do this first to give us something to work with.
To assist you in giving us the correct information, ICs follow the following numbering convention:
1----8
2----7
3----6
4----5
and if the circuit contains transistors be sure to identify collector, base and emitter when giving voltages.
If all of the above check out ok, then the problem must be an incompetent layout designer! :o) In this case
post a message to the board including any front and back pics you've taken, along with the pin voltages
mentioned in (6) and that could really help identify the problem area.
Hopefully you have more successes from this blog than failures to make the frustrations worthwhile.
Tags: Guide
61 comments:
Life-Proof Seat Covers
Martin 4 May 2012 at 19:22
Seat Covers Unlimited
Hi
Useful guide.I´m having problems with troubleshooting my Woolly Mammoth build.I did all of the
above except checking capacitors.I have a multimeter but it is´nt capable of measuring capitance...Is
there a way to check capacitors without having to buy a new meter??
Thx :-)
Reply
Replies
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttzqpTWDDAc
Reply
IvIark commented on Little Angel
Chorus Nye Edition Amz: “No
connection. They’re both simple
variable resistors, not voltage
Martin 5 May 2012 at 19:19
dividers”
Ok cool.New import tax-laws for non-EU countries will charge me an insane amount of money for any
purchase over 9£ so i´ll have to look for something within the EU.I suppose one could go all the way Fx_adiks commented on Little Angel
Chorus Nye Edition Amz: “Where is
and get an Atlas ESR but how about this one:
the speed 1 and depth 1 connect. Is it
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCR-RCL-INDUCTANCE-CAPACITANCE-RESISTANCE-METER-W- on ground?”
Leads-/260838255647?
pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item3cbb2bec1f Shazbat66 commented on Heartthrob
Tremolo: “Looks like a while since
Will it be able to do the same? postings here. So I thought I'd add a
positive note. I've just built this and
Reply it's working perfectly. I added a
volume control just in case i need it
Replies and included…”
Hej Martin Hvorfor handler du ikke i Tyskland...Musikding og Banzai har det meste...Det er
helt normalt med moms + Told mm. hvis du handler uden for Eu.
Sorry Folk´s This was in Danish..
Vero Layout Guide
Hilsen fra Ole Staalhaar København From Schematic to
Stripboard September
2012 ©
http://tagboardeffects.bl
Martin 17 October 2012 at 00:52 ogspot.com Updated 23rd September
Hey Ole.Yes i use Banzai,Musikding etc...But some things you can´t get from within the
2012 A lot of people have asked...
EU...And some low price shops like Tayda in Asia are just off limits for us danes.
Blackout Effectors Musket Fuzz
Reply I wanted to make this one suitable
for a 1590B, but thinking about it, not
many people are going to put a 6
knob effect into a 1590B. Still ...
Martin 8 May 2012 at 21:57
Offboard wiring
Yes it is absolutely ridiculous!.They keep changing the laws.It used to be 40 £ value before you should
pay tax...And now it´s a mere 9 £´s.I´m ok with paying the "Moms"-tax of 25% of the value but their A few people have
commented on posts
"Handling"-charges are the kind of stuff that makes you see red.They will charge you 20 £ for nothing.
asking about offboard
wiring. I use a daisy
I guess one could do it like you describe or if i make very large orders it could still be cost
chained power supply, so for things I
effective...Problem is my economy can´t handle spending 100´s of £´s at one time. build for myself I r...
Customs is currently holding on to a box of PETP capacitors i got from Ukraine.I paid like 15 £´s for it EarthQuaker Devices
but with tax and "handling" they could end up being very expensive capacitors :-o Speaker Cranker
Info about the original:
Reply
The Speaker Cranker is
an all discrete dirt
Replies enhancement device designed to give
your signal some grit and a sligh...
IvIark 9 May 2012 at 01:14
Things like that make me angry. Don't mess with a man's capacitors!! :o)
I order a lot from the far east, but my orders mostly tend to be under £10 and only go over
that when I'm ordering something a bit more special like a quantity of stomp switches or
PCBs. I've noticed that most sellers that I buy from in the far east tend to put $10 for the
value every time, nice that they're helping to stop us getting ripped off by our respective
governments!
Oh and try KW-TUBES for those PETPs. He's in Lithuania so you won't get taxed.
I notice the same Mark, the seller I get my switches from, labels them as a 'gift' lol... I keep
my orders small but frequent.
Reply
Yeah i got some stuff from him.Unfortunatly he did´nt have the value i was looking for this time...And
he does´nt have germanium transistors.I have built a couple of fuzzes using russian GT´s.They turned
out quite nice...In fact surprisingly good!:-)
I've tried posting this question in other places but am having no luck.
Note
Here goes. I've got a circuit that has 2 outputs. I need each output to be volume controlled and they
both need to be sent to one audio out jack. The .jpg shows the layout I just wired up. The problem is Not all these layouts are verified and
that they are not independent; they are interfering with each other. How do I need to change this some are put together from unverified
layout to make it work. Thanks for any help. schematics. So if you have good luck,
or bad luck for that matter, then
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj611/the_8lack_hat/JlAB/Q1_zpsa4724840.jpg please let me know by dropping a
comment in the topic. Thanks.
Reply
DMCA statement: Unless otherwise
Replies noted, all media used within this site
with the exception of linked youtube
videos, is the intellectual property of
the author, including but not limited to
mirosol 23 September 2012 at 11:20 photographs, schematics and
interpreted layout diagrams.
I've been recently battling with a similar issue. Manufacturers and product names
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Pots/PassiveMixer.gif are mentioned solely for circuit
identification, and where applicable
That could solve it. Didn't solve it in my case, because the two signals were just too their trademarks are the property of
different.. their respective owners who are in no
+m way associated or affiliated with the
author. No cooperation or
endorsement is implied.
Apocalypse Audio
Reply
DIYStompboxes
/C Madbean Pedals
Pedal Projects
Ivlark@ I have put up a new wiring guide (in english). You are welcome to put it on your Woody Laboratories
site, but it's very inspired by a guide from GuitarPCB - I hope they won't sue you then! ;o)
Reply
Replies
Reply
Unknown 23 October 2012 at 13:50
I have built Death by Audio Supersonic Fuzz Gun . Bias pot and Fuzz Pot Crackle . I have also built
Lovepedal
english gent and gain pot also crackles . Is it possible to remove it ? I think original effects don`t
crackle .
Reply
I have a build (not in enclosure yet) that only produces a loud buzz UNNLESS i touch the metal on
both the input & output jacks, then the effect works...Do you think this will work once it has all been
mounted in the enclosure?
Reply
Replies
Reply
I think I fixed it. I had 2 seperate wires going to both +'s on the DC jack. I put them both to the same
one and it's working now.
Although, I think the Belton brick was labeled wrong...It's supposed to be the long decay and it seems
short. Is it possible that one of the components is shortening the verb?
Reply
Reply
Replies
The box should help a lot with RF noise, are you sure it's properly grounded? It may be that
you just have a noisy supply in which case a power filtering extension could help.
A couple of things you can do with any circuit may also help, firstly put a low value resistor
like 100 ohms in series with the cupply to the board, and you could also put a low value cap
like 47pf from the input wire to ground. Both of those help with RF.
Reply
Replies
Some places just have noisy mains, but the fact that they're quiet at yours shows that the
pedal itself isn't at fault. To try to combat supply noise it may be worth getting one of the
mains adapters for your gear that has built in power filtering which may help.
Reply
Reply
Replies
Reply
Reply
Replies
Reply
Reply
Reply
Reply
Replies
The pedal usually starts working after I disconnect the power supply (Boss PSA adaptor)
and put it on battery for a few seconds and then swap back to the normal power supply...
But even that's not always the case...
Does anyone have an idea if this hints some sort of (occasionally?) faulty component?
Reply
Reply
Replies
Hey Sandy, what sort of power supply are you using? If you have a crappy DC adapter,
they are sometimes noisy and ruin everything. Try it with a battery and see if you have the
same results.
Reply
hello woll tinned copper buss ground wire work for jumps and grounds in pedals?
I have built several and nothing works.learning patience and going back through all of your suggested
steps.
I have the enclosure part nailed, I can drill and paint with the best of them, I just cannot get an effect to
hook up and work
Reply
Reply
Replies
Maybe you mixed up the power/ground pins on the DC jack? Or the jack is faulty? Or the
PSU is faulty now? You don't have much to troubleshoot as you've already found your
problem area. Measure the PSU with a multimeter. Confirm you wired the DC jack correctly.
Then plug in PSU and measure voltage on the DC jack.
Thanks man!! It turns out I wired it wrong! Thanks for your help!!
Reply
Hi All, I've built 3 pedals all working but having trouble with my newest. its a Rockett WTF fuzz. works
fine in bypass, the LED's work when either footswitch is engaged but i get no sound form the effect or
boost side when on?
Reply
Reply
First let me say this site is absolutely INCREDIBLE! Thanks for taking the time to make this place so
cool and such a great resource.
I am just getting into building pedals and I am having a problem and could really use your help. I am
building your layout of the Foxx Tone Machine. The board looks fine, I've checked it too many time to
mention. I wired the off-board wiring per your guide and have verified that things are correct. The
problem is, I am getting nothing out of the pedal. I can't even get the bypass to work... If I can't get a
sound out of the pedal, even with the circuit bypassed, where would be the best place to start
troubleshooting?
Thanks again for everything you do, and hopefully you can help me figure this out.
Brad
Reply
I just built a Cranked AC, it sounds awful. The first time I built it it works great, built it again and the
sound kind of buzzes. Checked solder joints, and went over them. Checked placement and values of
components. And biased transistors. Even rebuilt this pedal six times using new components, new
board, even tried putting on a circuit board. I continue to get this buzzing sound. I'm at a loss any help
would be appreciated.
Reply
Reply
FOR THE KEELEY 4 KNOB COMPRESSOR IS THERE AWAY TO USE A 200K LINEAR TAPER
POTENTIOMETER AND ATTACH A 50K RESISTOR TO MAKE THE MAX 150K.. BECAUSE THERE
ARE NO 150K LINEAR RESISTORS ANYWHERE...AND I NEED 2 OF THEM I HAVE ALL THE
OTHER PARTS... THE ONLY THING I COULD FIND IS 24MM WAH PEDAL POTENTIOMETER
THAT'S 150K LINEAR.. BUT THEY ARE .$9.00 EACH.. AND I DON'T EVEN KNOW IF THEY WOULD
WORK..
Reply