ขนมปัง Bread

 ประวัติความเป็ นมา ภาพ : www.historicalcookingproject.com

 ส่วนประกอบพื้นฐาน
หลัก: แป้ งสาลี เกลือ น้ำ ยีสต์
รอง : นม เนย ไข่ น้ำตาล ฯ
 การแบ่งประเภท
แบ่งตามการขึ้นฟู
Yeast -raised bread.

Quick bread / non yeast-raised bread เช่น muffin, pancake, banana bread, scone

แบ่งตามปริมาณไขมัน และ /หรือปริมาณน้ำตาล

ขนมปังไขมันต่ำ (0-3 %) เช่น baguette
ขนมปังไขมันปานกลาง (3-6 %) ขนมปังจืด ขนมปังแซนวิช ขนมปังหัวกะโหลก
ขนมปังไขมันสูง (6-12 %)
ขนมปังไขมันสูงพิเศษ (12-24 %)
แบ่งตามสไตล์ยุโรป European style
Lean-dough เช่น wholewheat, rye bread, Sourdough, baguette, Ciabatta, Focaccia, Bagel

Rich-dough เช่น soft bun , brioche

Laminated yeast dough เช่น Danish , Croissant

Asian bread style

Japanese milk bread; Shokupan

 Chinese bun

Chinese Youtiao

Naan; Indian flatbread

Bahn Mi ; Vietnamese baguette style

Artisan bread คือการที่ทำขนมด้วยมือทั้งหมด ส่วนผสมหลักคือยีสต์ แป้ ง น้ำ และเกลือ ทำอย่างประณีต ไม่ใช่สารเสริมและสาร

เคมี (บางคนอาจจะใส่ถั่ว ใส่สมุนไพร ใส่มะกอกอะไรก็ว่าไป แต่ยังไงก็ยังเป็นส่วนผสมที่เป็นธรรมชาติ) ขนมปังที่อบเสร็จแล้วจะมี Crust กรอบ
เกรียม เนื้อข้างในมีความชื้นสูง และรสชาติซับซ้อนกว่าขนมปังจากโรงงาน
Sourdough Bread หมายถึงขนมปังที่หมักจากหัวเชื้อธรรมชาติ ที่เรียกว่า Sourdough Starter ซึ่งเกิดจากการเพาะเลี้ยงยีสต์และแบคทีเรียที่
อยู่ในแป้ งและอากาศ จนมีความแข็งแรงพอที่จะมาทำให้ขนมปังมีโครงสร้างและรสชาติดี (Symbiotic Relationship ;yeasts, lactobacillus,
and aceto bacteria)

ขั้นตอนการทำขนมปัง
1. Mixing >> windowpane
2. Fermentation >> 26-28 °C
3. Punching
4. Dividing / rounding
5. Bench time
6. Shaping and filling
7. Proofing 37-40 °C . ให้ได้ 70-80% ของพิมพ์ >> spring oven
8. Baking
9. Cooling and packing

Mixing method

 Straight-dough method แบบขั้นตอนเดียว

 Sponge-dough method แบบสองขั้นตอน
 No-time dough method เชิงอุตสาหกรรม

ยีสต์ baker’s yeast Saccharomyces Cerevisiae

o Fresh yeast
o Active dry yeast
o Instant dry yeast - สำหรับขนมปังจืด น้ำตาลน้อยกว่า 10%
- สำหรับขนมปังหวาน น้ำตาลมากว่า 10%
 Starter ตามธรรมชาติ หรือ เติมยีสต์

Pre-ferment or bread starter การหมักแป้ ง หรือ Levain / Levure แปลได้ความเหมือนกัน คือ (Pâte de farine
qu'on a laissée fermenter ou qu'on a mélangée à de la levure) แป้ งหมัก ส่วนจะหมักแป้ งด้วยยีสต์ธรรมชาติหรือยีสต์สำเร็จรูปก็
ทำได้

ถ้าใช้ยีสต์สำเร็จรูป จะเรียก

Polish (French baking) 100% hydration ยีสต์ 0.4% ของ นน แป้ ง หมักนาน 8 ชม.
 Biga (Italian baking) 60-70%hydration ใช้ยีสต์มากกว่า polish 2 เท่า หมักนานเท่ากัน

Pâte Fermentée หรือ Old dough ใช้โดเก่ามาผสมกับแป้ งใหม่ไปเรื่อย ๆ

Mother dough /chef mother dough (French baking is Chef.) often refers to a sourdough, and a first-

generation yeast sponge

Asian technique
Tangzhong is a Chinese roux (liquid & flour paste) that is cooked in a pan,
left to cool down and added to bread dough. Generally, made at a
flour/liquid ratio of around 1:5 (some people make it at 1:4).

Yudane originates in Japan. It is a 1:1 mix of flour and liquid. Instead of

being cooked the flour is simply mixed with boiling liquid and then left to
cool down before being used.
Baker’s Percentage
Dough hydration
Hydration is calculated by taking the weight of water or liquid in a recipe and dividing it by the weight of flour to get a percentage.

Let’s look at an example recipe:

Flour: 1,000g
Water: 750g
Salt: 20g
Yeast: 10g

Remember that hydration = water / flour. So in the recipe above, if water is 750g and flour is 1,000g, the total hydration of the dough is 750 /
1,000, or 75%.
Effect of some ingredient on quality of bread
Protein in wheat flour
Glutenin gives bread dough its elasticity – the ability to resist stretching.
Gliadin gives bread dough its extensibility – the ability to be stretched
without easily tearing. So, one is elastic, but not stretchy and the other is
stretchy without being elastic.

Generally, wheat flour found in supermarkets can range from 7% to 16%

protein depending on where you live. Anything between 7% to 9% will
most likely be called cake or pastry flour. From 10% to 12% you’ll find all
purpose or plain flour which as the name suggests is a great all-rounder
useful for both pastry and breadmaking.

high protein (strong) flour makes for stronger gluten, it is most suited for
breadmaking as it can trap carbon dioxide inside the dough and help it
rise more vertically instead of spreading out sideways. The resulting loaf
has a larger volume, more open crumb, and chewy texture. It can absorb
far more water letting us make loaves with higher hydration. It also is
more resistant to enrichment with fats and sweeteners as after the
addition of such ingredients it is possible to bring the dough together for
full gluten development.

Low protein flour on the other hand creates weaker gluten which is not
able to hold carbon dioxide that well, so if used in breadmaking would
produce a loaf that is rather flat and more cake-like. This kind of flour is
great for light sponges, biscuits, cookies, scones, chemically leavened
(soda) breads, etc. The production of such baked goods often includes the
addition of eggs, butter, oil, sugar, and other enrichments. Although, in
this case they are added for the purpose of even further inhibiting the
gluten formation so that the resulting sponge or dough would be even less
chewy and lighter.

Salt
Effect of egg
There are some things to consider when writing a recipe that contains egg. First. Is the water and fat content of it. A
whole egg is 75% water and 9% fat. An egg yolk is 50% water and 30% fat. And an egg white is 90% water and
basically 0% fat.
The results were quite surprising.
1. Bread with no egg looked as normal as any other white loaf. It had
puffed up evenly and had a nice crust colour and a soft texture. The
interior was soft but quite tight. This could be made lighter by
skipping the pre-shaping or folding steps making the dough looser.
2. The one with a whole egg had puffed up quite a lot. This is due to
the gluten weakening effect that the fatty yolk has, as I mentioned
above. The crust had coloured more, and it was thinner and crispier
than the one without egg. The crumb was soft and fluffy, and it had
a faint egg taste.
3. The egg white bread was quite like the bread with no egg. Both
breads had the same volume and crust look similar too. Although it
looked like this one had a more evenly coloured crust. That could be
the fault of my oven too. The crumb was a little chewier because of
the egg whites. There was no egg flavour in this one. It would make
a great sandwich loaf with a good bite to it.
4. Lastly, the bread with egg yolk. This one had puffed up massively. It
was by far the biggest one and it had the loosest, airiest, and
creamiest crumb with a slight egg flavour which was stronger than
in the one that contained a whole egg funny enough. The crust was
the crispiest by far.

https://www.chainbaker.com/eggs/

How Bread Dough Temperature Affects Fermentation

Time = flavour, texture, colour, and keeping quality. The longer
a dough ferments the more flavour it develops. It will have a
more substantial texture with more ‘bite’ and character to it.
The crust will caramelize and become beautifully golden brown
and crispy. And when it comes to dough that is fermented for
extended periods of time the built-up acidity makes it stay
fresh for longer.

On the other hand, bread that is fermented quickly lacks

flavour, can have a pale and soft crust, and will go stale quicker too.
This is not always a bad thing and there are certainly cases
where a quick fermentation is appropriate. In the case of
enriched dough containing fats, eggs, sugar, and flavourings
there is not always a need for a long fermentation as the bread
should be soft and have a light flavour to let the flavours of the
added ingredients take centre stage.
Volume development during fermentation
What is Staling?
Staling or firming causes baked goods to lose their freshness
and initial eating qualities.1 Depending on the product,
staling involve both crumb and crust:
 Harsh, dry and crumbly
 Increased hardness and firmness
 Deterioration of taste and aroma
 Loss of moisture via migration from product core to
crust
 Loss of crust crispness
 Crust toughening

Approaches to reduce staling in bakery products

Formulation
 Emulsifiers as crumb softeners: do not produce softer fresh bread, but they do slow the rate
of firming over time.
 Amylases: maltogenic amylases of intermediate thermostability from fungal or modified
bacterial sources can break down starch into dextrins and sugars. The latter can penetrate the
starch helix structure and inhibit the realignment process.
 Lipases: clean label emulsifier replacements which break down lipids to produce mono- and
diglycerides that function as crumb softeners.
 Hydrocolloids (gums): they bind and hold water, preventing moisture migration and reducing
the firming rate.
 High-sugar recipes: such formulations raise starch glass transition temperature, suppressing
amylopectin recrystallization.
ขนมปังแบบพิเศษ
Artisan bread

Flatbread

No-knead bread

Ciabatta , Focaccia ใช้น้ำมันมะกอก

Pizza

Bagel
Pretzel

Breadstick

Brioche

Panettone

Sourdough