Porcelain Yoke Sweater

Porcelain Yoke Sweater is easy to knit

because you only work the color pattern on
the right side. It is worked with short rows
to create a higher neckline at the back than
at the front. The short rows are worked
after the neck edge, just before the color
pattern begins.

Sizes
(XXS) XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL

Measurements
Circumference:
(93) 99 (105) 114 (120) 126 (136) 143 (152) 160
cm
[(36.5) 39 (41.5) 45 (47) 49.5 (53.5) 56.5 (60) 63”]

Length*:
(52) 53 (54) 55 (57) 59 (60) 61 (63) 64 cm
[(20.5) 21 (21.5) 22 (22.5) 23.5 (24) 24.5 (25)
25.2”]
*measured mid-back (excluding neck edge)

Yarn
Sandnes Garn Tynn Peer Gynt (100% wool, 50
g = 205 m [225 yd]) held together with Sandnes
Garn Tynn Silk Mohair (57% mohair, 28% silk,
15% wool, 25 g = 212 m [232 yd]).

Yarn quantity
Tynn Peer Gynt 2641: (200) 200 (200) 250 (250)
250 (300) 300 (350) 350 g
Tynn Peer Gynt 6046: (50) 50 (50) 50-100 (100)
100 (100) 100 (100) 100 g
Tynn Silk Mohair 2511: (100) 100 (100) 125 (125) 125 (150) 150 (175) 175 g
Tynn Silk Mohair 6046: (25) 25 (25) 25-50 (50) 50 (50) 50 (50) 50 g

Suggested needles
Circular needles 3 and 4 mm [US 2.5 and 6] (40 and 80 cm [116 and 32”]). Double-pointed
needles 3 mm [US 2.5]. If you use the magic loop method, you do not need double-pointed
needles.

Gauge
21 sts x approx. 26 rows in one color stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4”] on 4 mm [US 6].
21 sts x approx. 25 rows in colorwork pattern = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4”] on 4 mm [US 6].

Note: This sweater is worked with 2 strands of yarn, using 1 strand of each quality. Wash
the gauge swatch before measuring the stitch gauge.
Ensure that the stitch gauge is consistent in width (21 sts x 10 cm [4”]) whether you're
working in one color stockinette stitch or two colored pattern. If the pattern tends to be
tighter than the stockinette stitch, consider using needles half a size larger for the
patterned sections.

Size guide
Porcelain Yoke Sweater is meant to have a positive ease of 14-20 cm [5.5-8”]. The model is
shown with a positive ease of 20cm [8”]. Find your personal bust circumference by
measuring around your chest (or the largest part of your upper body). Then look at the
measurements at the beginning of the pattern (these are the finished measurements of the
sweater). Positive ease is the difference between your personal measurement and the
sweater's measurement. For example, if your bust is 94 cm [37”], a size M will give you a
positive ease of 20 cm [8”] (114 cm – 94 cm = 20 cm).
[45” - 37” = 8”].

Construction
Porcelain Yoke Sweater is worked from the top down. The neck edge is double, it is folded
and knitted together. After the neck edge, short rows are worked, creating a deeper
neckline in the front than at the back. The round yoke with 2 pattern borders and increases
is then worked. Raglan increases are worked before finishing the body and sleeves
separately. The third pattern border is worked at the top of the body and sleeves.

Charts
All sts in charts A, B-1, B-2, B-3 and C are repeated until the end of round.
Begin at the bottom of each chart.
Read all rounds from right to left.

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Color dominance
When working colorwork patterns (also called jacquard patterns), keep the same color in
front on your finger for a neat, even result. I choose to always have the contrast color as the
dominant color, but you can decide for yourself. The important thing is to be consistent.
Check out a video about dominant pattern color at www.leknit.com (find the link at the
bottom of the pattern info).

Abbreviations - see the videos on www.leknit.com

GSR: Use German short rows to shape the neckline so it is lower in the front than the back.
German short rows are abbreviated to GSR and are worked as follows: after turning the
work, slip the first stitch with the working yarn in front. Move the working yarn to the back
of the work and tighten the slipped stitch until the two legs of the stitch are visible. Work
back long the row as normal. On the next row, when you reach the two legs of the slipped
stitch, work these as a single stitch.

M1–R: Use the left hand needle to pick up the strand between the last stitch worked and
the next stitch on the left needle from the back, knit this strand, left to right, through the
front loop.

M1–L: Use the left hand needle to pick up the strand between the last stitch worked and
the first stitch on the left needle from the front, knit this strand, right to left, through the
back loop.

SSK, slip-slip-knit: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, then slip the next stitch knitwise as well (make
sure you slip them one at a time). Pass the stitches back to the left needle and knit them
together through the back loop = 1 st decreased.

k knit
k2tog knit 2 stitches together
p purl
PM Place marker on the right needle
st(s) stitch(es)
SM (slip marker) Transfer marker to the right needle.

You can find video tutorials to the pattern on www.leknit.com. Links to the videos can be
found at the end of the pattern description on the website:
https://leknit.com/shop/porcelain-yoke-sweater-957p.html

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Yoke
Begin at the top. Cast on (100) 100 (104) 106 (110) 110 (114) 120 (122) 120 sts on a 3 mm [US
2.5] (40 cm [16”]) with the main color. K 1 round. PM at the beginning of the round.
Work 7 cm [2.75”] of ribbing (k1, p1).
Now, fold the edge and knit together (see video on www.leknit.com). Knit every other st on
the needle together with every other st along the cast-on edge. Each knitted st on the
needle is worked together with 1 purled st from the cast-on edge, and all purled sts on the
needle are knitted.
Work as follows: *Pick up 1 st from the cast-on edge on the left needle, k2tog, k1*.

Repeat from * to * to the end of round. Make sure the stitches align properly when knitting
them together.
Switch to 4 mm [US 6] circular needle. On the next round (= 1st round of increases) work as
described for the selected size:

Sizes XXS, XS, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL

*K (6) 6 (-) - (-) - (5) 6 (5) 4, M1-L*.
Work form * to * a total of (15) 15 (-) - (-) - (21) 20 (23) 30 times.
Sizes XXS and XS: Finish the round with k10.
Size 2XL: Finish the round with k9.
Sizes 3XL and 5XL: Finish the round with k0.
Size 4XL: Finish the round with k7.

Sizes S, M, L and XL
*K (-) - (6) 5 (5) 5 (-) - (-) -, M1-L, k (-) - (7) 6 (6) 6 (-) - (-) - , M1-L*.
Work form * to * a total of (-) - (8) 9 (10) 10 (-) - (-) - times.
Sizes S, L and XL: Finish the round with k0.
Size M: Finish the round with k4, M1-L, k3.

All sizes: There are now (115) 115 (120) 125 (130) 130 (135) 140 (145) 150 sts.
PM = beginning of the round (mid back).
Work short rows as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K (25) 25 (27) 28 (28) 28 (30) 30 (32) 33. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): GSR, p (49) 49 (53) 55 (55) 55 (59) 59 (63) 65. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): GSR, k (52) 52 (56) 58 (58) 58 (62) 62 (66) 68. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): GSR, p (55) 55 (59) 61 (61) 61 (65) 65 (69 71. Turn.
Row 5: GSR, k until 3 sts after the last turn (turn from Row 3). Turn.
Row 6: GSR, p until 3 sts after the last turn (turn from Row 4). Turn.
Row 7: GSR, k until 3 sts after the last turn (turn from Row 5). Turn.
Row 8: GSR, p until 3 sts after the last turn (turn from Row 6). Turn.
Row 9: GSR, k until the marker (beginning of the round).

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K (1) 1 (1) 1 (1) 1 (2) 2 (2) 2 round(s).

Continue in the colored pattern following chart A

= (23) 23 (24) 25 (26) 26 (27) 28 (29) 30 repeats of the pattern.
The increases are made as you follow the chart. When Chart A is complete, there are (184)
184 (192) 200 (208) 208 (216) 224 (232) 240 sts.

Work (2) 3 (3) 3 (3) 4 (4) 5 (5) 6 rounds in stockinette stitch with the main color.
On the next round (the 5th round with increases) work as follows: *k8, M1-L*. Repeat from
* to * until the end of round = (207) 207 (216) 225 (234) 234 (243) 252 (261) 270 sts.

Work (2) 2 (2) 3 (3) 3 (4) 4 (5) 5 rounds in stockinette stitch with the main color.
On the next round (the 6th round with increases) work as follows: *k9, M1-L*. Repeat from
* to * until (0) 0 (0) 0 (0) 0 (0) 0 (18) 18 sts remain. K to the end of round
= (230) 230 (240) 250 (260) 260 (270) 280 (288) 298 sts.
Work 1 round in stockinette stitch with the main color.
A total of (7) 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 (11) 12 (13) 14 rounds have been worked in the main color after
Chart A.

Work chart B-1.

K 1 round.
K 1 more round while adjusting the stitch count for the specified sizes (no adjustments for
sizes 2XL and 4XL), work as follows:
Sizes XXS and XS: Increase 4 sts evenly across the round: *K57, M1-L*. Work from * to * a
total of 4 times, k2.
Size S: Increase 3 sts evenly across the round: *K80, M1-L*. Work from * to * a total of 3
times.
Size M: Increase 2 sts evenly across the round: *K125, M1-L*. Work from * to * a total of 2
times.
Sizes L and XL: Increase 1 st: K over all sts, M1-L.
Sizes 3XL and 5XL: K until 2 sts remain, k2tog.
There are now (234) 234 (243) 252 (261) 261 (270) 279 (288) 297 sts.

Work chart B-2. The increases are made as you follow the chart.
Sizes S, L, XL, 3XL and 5XL: Omit the last increase marked with an arrow on the right side of
the chart to ensure a divisible stitch count.

After completing chart B-2, there are (286) 286 (296) 308 (318) 318 (330) 340 (352) 362 sts.
Work chart B-3. Continue as described for the selected size below:

Sizes (XXS) XS (S):

K 1 round with the main color = (286) 286 (296) sts.
Continue from ”All sizes”.

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Sizes M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:
Continue with the main color. K 2 rows.
On the next round (the 9th round with increases) work as follows: *K14 (12) 11 (11) 9 (9) 8,
M1-L*. Repeat from * to * until 0 (6) 10 (10) 7 (10) 10 sts reman. Finish as described for the
chosen size.
Size M: Finish with k0 = 330 sts.
Size L: Finish with k6 = 344 sts.
Size XL: Finish with k5, M1-L, k5, M1-L = 348 sts.
Size 2XL: Finish with k0= 360 sts.
Size 3XL: Finish with k7, M1-L = 378 sts.
Size 4XL: Finish with k5, M1-L, k5, M1-L = 392 sts.
Size 5XL: Finish with k10 = 406 sts.
Continue from ”All sizes”.

All sizes:
There are (286) 286 (296) 330 (344) 348 (360) 378 (392) 406 sts.

K 1 round while placing 8 markers to mark the 4 raglan sts. Work as follows:
K (41) 42 (44) 50 (53) 54 (57) 62 (66) 70 (= back), PM, k1 (= raglan st), PM, k (60) 58 (59) 63
(64) 64 (64) 64 (62) 62 (= sleeve), PM, k1 (= raglan st), PM, k (81) 83 (87) 100 (106) 108 (114)
123 (132) 139 (= front), PM, k1 (= raglan st), PM, k (60) 58 (59) 63 (64) 64 (64) 64 (62) 62 (=
sleeve), PM, k1 (= raglan st), PM, k (40) 41 (43) 50 (53) 54 (57) 61 (66) 69 (= back).
Increase for raglan as follows:
Round 1: K to the first raglan st, M1-R, SM, k1, SM, M1-L, *k to the next raglan st, M1-R,
SM, k1, SM, M1-L*. Work from * to * a total of 3 times, t to the end of round = 8 increases.
Round 2: K over all sts.
Work rounds 1 and 2 a total of (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (2) 3 (3) 4 times
= (302) 302 (312) 346 (360) 364 (376) 402 (416) 438 sts.

The work measures approx. (24) 25 (25) 26 (26) 27 (27) 28 (29) 30 cm [(9.5) 9.75 (9.75) 10.25
(10.25) 10.5 (10.5) 11 (11.5) 11.75”] (measured at the center back, excluding the neckline).

The stitch distribution is now: (85) 87 (91) 104 (110) 112 (118) 129 (138) 147 sts (back), (85) 87
(91) 104 (110) 112 (118) 129 (138) 147 sts (front), (64) 62 (63) 67 (68) 68 (68) 70 (68) 70 sts
(each sleeve) and 4 raglan sts.

Next round: K to the first raglan st, let the next (66) 64 (65) 69 (70) 70 (70) 72 (70) 72 sts rest
(i.e., sleeve sts + 1 raglan st on each side), cast on (15) 18 (19) 16 (15) 18 (22) 21 (22) 23 sts
using the backward loop method, k front sts, let the next (66) 64 (65) 69 (70) 70 (70) 72 (70)
72 sts rest (i.e., sleeve sts + 1 raglan st on each side), cast on (15) 18 (19) 16 (15) 18 (22) 21
(22) 23 sts using the backward loop method.
= a total of (200) 210 (220) 240 (250) 260 (280) 300 (320) 340 sts for the body.

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Body
Work (0) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 (2) 1 (2) 1 rounds in stockinette stitch with the main color.
Now, there are worked (7) 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 (11) 12 (13) 14 rounds after completing chart B-3 (=
the same number as between charts A and B-1).
Break the yarn and start the next round on one side, in the middle of the new sts, to
minimise the visibility of the round's beginning in the pattern.
Work chart C. Adjust the stitch count on the first round of the leaf pattern (= the central
part of chart C) for all sizes except XS and 2XL.
Adjust the stitch count to (196) - (224) 238 (252) 266 (-) 294 (322) 336 sts. This ensures
compatibility with the leaf pattern, where the pattern repeat consists of 14 sts (i.e., the
stitch count should be divisible by 14). Make adjustments as described for each size below:
Size XXS: Decrease 4 sts evenly across the round: *K48, k2tog*. Work from * to * a total of
4 times.
Size S: Increase 4 sts evenly across the round: *K55, M1-L*. Work from * to * a total of 4
times.
Size M: Decrease 2 sts evenly across the round: *K118, k2tog*. Work from * to * a total of 2
times.
Size L: Increase 2 sts evenly across the round: *K125, M1-L*. Work from * to * a total of 2
times.
Size XL: Increase 6 sts evenly across the round: *K43, M1-L*. Work from * to * a total of 6
times, k2.
Size 3XL: Decrease 6 sts evenly across the round: *K48, k2tog*. Work from * to * a total of
6 times.
Size 4XL: Increase 2 sts evenly across the round: *K160, M1-L*. Work from * to * a total of 2
times.
Size 5XL: Decrease 4 sts evenly across the round: *K83, k2tog*. Work from * to * a total of
4 times.

On the last round of the leaf pattern, adjust the stitch count back to (200) 210 (220) 240
(250) 260 (280) 300 (320) 340 sts as follows:
Size XXS: Increase 4 sts evenly across the round: *K49, M1-L*. Work from * to * a total of 4
times.
Size S: Decrease 4 sts evenly across the round: *K54, k2tog*. Work from * to * a total of 4
times.
Size M: Increase 2 sts evenly across the round: *K119, M1-L*. Work from * to * a total of 2
times.
Size L: Decrease 2 sts evenly across the round: *K124, k2tog*. Work from * to * a total of 2
times.
Size XL: Decrease 6 sts evenly across the round: *K42, k2tog*. Work from * to * a total of 6
times, k2.
Size 3XL: Increase 6 sts evenly across the round: *K49, M1-L*. Work from * to * a total of 6
times.

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Size 4XL: Decrease 2 sts evenly across the round: *K159, k2tog*. Work from * to * a total of
2 times.
Size 5XL: Increase 4 sts evenly across the round: *K84, M1-L*. Work from * to * a total of 4
times.

All sizes: When the entire chart C is completed, work further with the main color.
Work until the work measures approx. (46) 47 (48) 49 (51) 53 (54) 55 (57) 58 cm [(18) 18.5
(18.5) 19.25 (20) 21 (21.25) 21.5 (22.25) 22.75”] (measured at the center back, excluding the
neckline) or until the sweater is 6 cm [2.25”] shorter than the desired length. Switch to a 3
mm [US 2.5] circular needle before the last round of stockinette stitch.
Work 6 cm [2.25”] of ribbing (k1, p1). Finish with double knitting as follows:
Round 1: *k1, slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in front.*. Repeat from * to * until the end of
round.
Round 2: *slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in back, p1*. Repeat from * to * until the end of
round.
Bind off using the Italian bind-off method.

Sleeves
Place the (66) 64 (65) 69 (70) 70 (70) 72 (70) 72 resting sts on a 4 mm [US 6] circular needle.
Start in the middle of the new sts on the body (under the arm). Work with the main color.
Pick up (8) 9 (10) 9 (8) 9 (11) 11 (12) 12 sts along half of the new sts, k the resting sts, pick up
(8) 9 (9) 8 (8) 9 (11) 11 (12) 12 sts along the other half of the new sts (under the arm).
A total of (82) 82 (84) 86 (86) 88 (92) 94 (94) 96 sts.
The round begins in the middle of the new sts; PM.

Work (0) 1 (1) 0 (0) 1 (2) 1 (2) 1 round(s) in stockinette stitch.

Now, there are worked (7) 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 (11) 12 (13) 14 rounds after completing chart B-3 (=
the same number as on the body).

Work chart C following the pattern for the sleeve. The chart shows all sts.
Note: Ensure gauge consistency when knitting chart C, so the sleeve's gauge matches that
of the body.
Decrease at the beginning and end of the rounds where there is 1 st less on each side
according to the chart.
Decrease as follows: k2tog, k to the last 2 sts of the round, SSK.

After completing chart C there are (74) 74 (76) 80 (80) 82 (88) 90 (90) 92 sts.

Continue with the main color. Work in stockinette stitch After working (4) 4 (4) 1 (1) 1 (1) 1
(1) 1 round(s), decrease at the beginning and end of the next round as follows: k2tog, k to
the last 2 sts of the round, SSK
= (72) 72 (74) 78 (78) 80 (86) 88 (88) 90 sts.

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Decrease in the same way on each (12th) 12th (12th) 11th (11th) 11th (10th) 10th (10th) 10th
round for an additional (6) 6 (6) 6 (6) 6 (7) 7 (7) 7 times = (60) 60 (62) 66 (66) 68 (72) 74 (74) 76
sts.
Work until the sleeve measures 38 cm [15”] or is 7 cm [2.75”] shorter than the desired
length. Switch to 3 mm [US 6] double-pointed needles on the last round. Work 7 cm [2.75”]
of ribbing (k1, p1).
Finish with 2 rounds of double knitting, just like on the body. Bind off using the Italian bind-
off method.

© Lene Holme Samsøe 2024 – this pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only.
Copying, reselling or redistribution of pattern or content is not allowed. Sale of items
produced using the directions in this pattern is prohibited.
Share your version of the Porcelain Yoke Sweater on Instagram with
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