A cameo role in Marie Antoinette brought macarons international fame.

In pretty pastel colours and displayed like precious jewels in the best Parisian patisseries, theyre (almost) too good to eat
Story Alice Stolz Photography Christopher Jeney

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isitors to Paris are shunning the Louvre, they are forgetting to say their prayers at Notre Dame and even putting a shopping trip to Le Bon Marche on hold, all for the newest Holy Grail in the city: le macaron. Not the chewy, coconut macaroon (note the double o) from your childhood, but un macaron, a pretty little biscuit of almond meringue that sandwiches a delectable filling. So beautiful to look at, so simple, yet so complex and so addictive. So French. Legend has it that the first macarons single domes with flat bases were made by two Carmelite nuns seeking asylum in Nancy, northeastern France, during the Revolution. The modern double-decker arrangement is claimed by Laduree, the countrys most famous macaron maison, which says it was Pierre Desfontaines, distant cousin of founder Louis Ernest Laduree, who, some time in the early 20th century, took two macaron biscuits and added a flavoured filling. Among pastry chefs, there is little dispute that a perfect macaron should have an eggshell-like quality, giving way to a delicate almond meringue and opening to a luxurious ganache centre. The biscuit should be soft enough to easily bite through without crumbling (an all-important ratio of filling to shell separates the good from the bad). Each colour should be vibrant and have depth. Most important of all, a macaron should be bursting with flavour. Laduree produces extraordinary macarons. A visit to this Parisian institution (its tea room on the Champs Elysees is pictured right) is like crossing a threshold. If youre lucky, you wont have to line up outside before pulling back the heavy doors though queuing for at least a few minutes inside is pretty much guaranteed (at Laduree this is perfectly tolerable). Youre immediately wooed by the romanticism and charm of the place. The old-world elegance of the soft lighting, gilt mirrors, hand-painted tiles and chandeliers not to mention the heady scents of freshly baked pastries and violet water (sprayed through the building each morning) are enough to make you swoon. Youre not missing the two-hour wait at the Musee dOrsay now, are you? At the macaron counter the biggest challenge is deciding how many you want and which parfums (flavours) to indulge in. There are 11 flavours in the permanent collection and a number of seasonal ones. At any given time, the house has about 30 macarons on offer. The bestsellers are chocolate, salted butter caramel, pistachio and vanilla.

Seasonal flavours include coconut, lemon and ice mint. A special, highly anticipated flavour for Christmas is released every year (last year it was epices et fruits moelleux, a blend of spices and soft fruit). Sales assistants at the counter are briskly efficient (though with slightly feigned enthusiasm) and package up each purchase with true panache. Ladurees sublime pale green bags are synonymous with the brand and its signature boxes are lovely and not just for the macarons inside. As well as the standard patisserie box, the houses prestige line of packaging is highly coveted. The boxes come in the most perfect shades of violet and pink, and there are usually limited edition designs (past boxes have included a black and white box by Christian Lacroix; recently there was a pop art design a la Andy Warhol). Right now, the Laduree box is a pretty boudoir style by Designers Guild. When the macarons have been polished off, one is left with the perfect container for business cards or trinkets. Meanwhile, trolleys loaded with pastries roll by looking like something one might spy in the window of an upmarket jeweller. Waitresses dressed in Chantal Thomass-designed polka-dot pinafores serve dine-in customers in a capable, if slightly severe, manner. Laduree sells a staggering 35,000 macarons a day in its three Paris shops and through its outlet at Printemps department store, which equates to more than 12 million a year. Like all good macarons, the shells are made daily and, once the filling is added, the biscuits are put aside to set for a day or two before theyre sold. Its not hard to understand where the French expression lecher les vitrines (literally, to lick the windows) for window-shopping comes from. Ever-changing pyramids of macarons grace Ladurees windows and this month, with Valentines Day in mind, huge love hearts of macarons fill the space. There are also little paintings to complement the hues of the macarons, making each display a work of art thats truly good enough to eat. It is unlikely that all this impeccable good taste and beauty is what started the macaron revolution that is taking place in Paris today. That accolade has to be attributed to Pierre Herme the rebel of the macaron world. Herme, 47, started his career at 14 as an apprentice to famed patissier Gaston Lenotre and, by 24, was a fully fledged pastry chef. Since then, he has redefined the art of patisserie. Hailed by the media as the Picasso of pastry and Dior of desserts, Herme is undoubtedly the most creative pastry chef in Paris at the moment. In a city steeped in tradition, his concept of patisserie

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Taking the

 Sweetness and light: Pierre Hermes candy-coloured window displays draw in macaron enthusiasts from all around the world.

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where to find them
Laduree 16 rue Royale, 8th arrondissement; 75 avenue des Champs Elysees; 8th arrond; 21 rue Bonaparte, 6th arrond Pierre Herme 72 rue Bonaparte, 6th arrond; 185 rue de Vaugirard, 15th arrond; 4 rue Cambon, 1st arrond; 133 avenue des Champs Elysees, 8th arrond Arnaud Larher Macarons et Chocolat 53 rue Caulaincourt, 18th arrond; 57 rue Damremont, 18th arrond Gerard Mulot 76 rue de Seine, 6th arrond; 93 rue de Glaciere, 13th arrond
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haute couture has resulted in Pierre Herme delicacies lighting up the city. In 1996 Herme left luxury food emporium Fauchon and, two years later, opened his first Pierre Herme boutique in Tokyo (there are four there today). In 2001 his first Paris patisserie opened on rue Bonaparte in the chic 6th arrondissement, just down the road from Ladurees Saint Germain des Pres tea room. In the past two years, Herme has opened three more boutiques: one in the 15th arrondissement, one on rue Cambon in the 1st arrondissement (a stones throw from fashion mecca rue Saint Honore) and another on the Champs Elysees. I think it was Pierre Herme who started the macaron craze, says American author Dorie Greenspan, who has co-written two books [Desserts and Chocolate Desserts] with Herme. He debuted his collection as if it were a fashion show. The desserts were brought out by models and, like a real fashion show, the wow piece a new white truffle and hazelnut macaron was brought out at the finale, she says. Hermes first show was held at the contemporary art museum, Palais de Tokyo. His second was at Parisian cabaret club Le Crazy Horse, complete with showgirls sashaying down the runway with the macaron of the season. True to form, the show ended with a bow from the designer. When I presented my creations as a fashion show, I wanted to add another dimension; to aspire to the level of creativity that we see in haute couture, says Herme. Perhaps to become less sensational, he has stopped showing his collections in this manner. Last year he opted to present during the European summer with an elegant picnic on a Parisian bridge. However, the frenzy surrounding him has not died down. Parisians and visitors alike flock to Hermes shops like worshippers on a pilgrimage. Even on a cool midweek morning, before the shops 10am opening time, a line has formed outside the shop in the 6th arrondissement. Day after day, its the same. From a distance, the rue Bonaparte store is almost nondescript. On closer inspection,

however, the grey facade reveals cut-out frames that showcase Hermes colourful creations as artworks. Indeed, the store is housing incredible (and edible) masterpieces. To disperse the crowd that gathers in summer, a sign limits tourists to two photographs each. For all the creativity Herme exudes, the laboratoire (his pastry kitchen) is marvellously serene and calm. Photos of his prized macarons line a small section of the wall. Chefs methodically prepare ganache fillings, delicately handling each macaron with kid gloves. Since opening in Paris, 35 different macaron flavours have been produced. The boutiques offer 10 different flavours daily, according to the season. It has to be said that Hermes macarons need to be tasted to really understand and appreciate his cult-like status. Flavours in the repertoire include Infiniment Vanille, a combination of vanilla from Mexico, Tahiti and Madagascar; white truffle with Piemonte hazelnut; vanilla with olive oil; and Delicieux, a refreshing combination of grapefruit and wasabi. Then theres the foie gras (of course) with fig or, if you prefer, chocolate. Herme also produces more traditional macarons such as Plenitude, a mixture of caramel and rich bitter chocolate; and caramel macarons, which come with a touch of fleur de sel (hand-harvested sea salt). Many of his macarons are dusted with edible metallic dust, making them shimmer like over-sized pearls. Hermes macarons are also exquisitely packaged, though in quirky boxes with declarations such as Jaime les macarons (I love macarons) and Les Incontournables de Paris (Paris must-haves), and an exceptional wreath of macarons has just been launched. Hermes containers are white, with delicate petal-like cut-outs laced across both sides of the bag. His boutiques look like something straight out of Architectural Digest magazine. The antithesis of Laduree, theyre all modern, sleek lines oozing style. Indeed, the rue de Vaugirard store is colourful and fun, with Hermes collection shining like treasures in a box.

Of course, good macarons in France are not limited to Laduree and Pierre Herme although, it must be said, they probably are limited to Paris. Greenspan, who divides her time between New York and Paris, agrees that macarons are a Parisian delicacy. Of course you can buy them in other parts of France but I dont think they are in the same league as they are in Paris, nor does the same obsession for them exist in other parts of the country, she says. For a more off-the-beaten-track location, you could try Macarons et Chocolat on rue Caulaincourt in the 18th arrondissement, owned by rising star Arnaud Larher. A year ago he opened a second store on rue Damremont, a much slicker-looking patisserie in the style of Pierre Herme. Larhers macarons, 13 flavours in total, are denser and heavier than the current macaron style yet still bursting with flavour. His most popular macaron is caramel with salted butter. Other hits include raspberry and verbena; milk chocolate and passionfruit; pistachio and praline; and a girly rose lychee macaron. Gerard Mulot, who is renowned for his macaron menus (featuring watercolours of the patissiers mouth-watering creations), insists that his macarons are formed by hand. Theyre often in punchy colours and bold flavours. His two shops are worth a visit for the window displays alone. Highlights in his repertoire include orange and cinnamon, a simple passionfruit, and plain coconut. In the past, Mulot has also flecked his biscuits with poppy seeds. Sampling the many flavours of macarons is considered the perfect antidote to Parisian life. Indeed, Mathieu Ganio, a dancer with the Paris Opera Ballet, reveals in a book about Laduree (Laduree: Fabricant de douceurs by Serge Gleizes et al) that macarons are a sure cure for the blues, the best anti-stress medicine there is. Baccarat Crystals Anne Schuhmacher adds, Women love macarons because theyre so tiny and delicate. We can enjoy them without seeming greedy. Could there possibly be a more Parisian biscuit?