Yarn Manufacturing – Chamal Jayasinghe

Yarns and their

Manufacturing
Methods

Chamal Jayasinghe ( B.Sc. Engineering – Textiles)

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Yarn Manufacturing – Chamal Jayasinghe

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 Yarn Manufacturing – Chamal Jayasinghe

1. Steps in Staple ( Cotton ) Yarn Manufacturing

1. Opening and Cleaning (Blow Room)

A machinery called blow room is used in this process. The basic functions of the blow room can be mentioned
as follows.

1. Opening
2. Cleaning
3. Dust removal
4. Blending
5. Mixing

Image 1.1 Blow Room

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2. Carding

Carding is one of the most important process in yarn spinning. The fibers after the blow room process still
stays entangled. This is no way suitable for yarn manufacturing. In the carding process all these fibers are
turned in to parallel web and later turned in to a bundle of fibers called as a slivers.

1. Separating fiber bundles into individual fibers

2. Removing dusts and lint
3. Orientate fibers
4. Formation of carded sliver

Image 1.2 Cross Section of a Carding Machine

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3. Drawing

Drawing is the process used to mix the carded slivers to remove sliver irregularities. In drawing process six or
more carded slivers are lapped together and drawn again to make another sliver. Because of drawing this sliver
has highly oriented fibers while having very less irregularity in its cross section.

1. Equalizing along the length of the sliver

2. Parallelizing
3. Blending
4. Dust removal

Image 1.3 Drawing Machine

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4. Combing

The short fibres, shorter than 12 mm do not contribute to the strength of the yarn, but in turn they only
increase the hairiness of the yarn and adversely affect the appearance and other good properties of the
yarns and the fabrics made out of them. In the staple fibre yarn manufacturing process, only the trash
particles, foreign matters and very short fibres are removed in the blow room and carding operations. In
these processes, it is not possible to remove fibres which are shorter than a predetermined length, which
can increase the average fibre length.

In the combing operation, fibres shorter than length of fibres or certain fixed percentage of short fibres are
removed. Since the shorter cotton fibres are generally coarser, removing the shorter fibers leaves behind
fibres which are relatively finer. Hence, fabric made from combed cotton fibres has a very soft touch.
Combing involves additional processing step and also certain amount of fibres are removed as waste.
Hence, combed cotton is more expensive than conventional carded cotton.

Objectives of Combing

1. Elimination of precisely pre-determined quantity of short fibers;

2. Elimination of the remaining impurities;
3. Elimination of a large proportion (not all) of the neps in the fiber material;
4. Formation of a sliver having maximum possible evenness;
5. Producing of more straight and parallel fibers.

Image 1.4 Parts of a Combing Machine

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5. Roving

The first reason for using a roving machine is related to getting the required draft. Sliver is a thick, untwisted
strand that tends to be hairy and to create fly. The draft needed to convert this to a yarn is in the region of
300-500. The drafting arrangements of ring spinning machines, in their current forms, are not capable of
processing this strand in a single drafting operation to create a yarn of short-staple fibers that meets all the
normal demands on such yarns. The fine, twisted roving is significantly better suited to this purpose.

Objectives of Roving

1.Drafting
To reduce the weight /unit length of sliver to make it suitable for ring spinning system.

2.Twisting
To insert small amount of twist to give required strength to the small sliver.

3.Winding
To build the roving in bobbin such a form which will facilitate handling, withdrawing & transferring to
the next process

Image 1.5 Roving Machine ( Simplex / Speed Frame )

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Yarn Spinning Methods

Spinning is the term used in textile industry which defines creating of yarns out of fibers. There are number of
methods used in spinning yarns and following are some of them.

Rotor Spinning:
A method of open-end spinning which uses a rotor (a high-speed centrifuge) to collect individual
fibres into a yarn is known as Rotor spinning. The fibers on entering a rapidly rotating rotor are
distributed around its circumference and temporarily held there by centrifugal force. The yarn is
withdrawn from the rotor wall and, because of the rotation, twist is generated.

Image 1.6 Rotor Spinning

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Air-jet Spinning:
A system of staple-fibre spinning which utilizes air to apply the twisting couple to the yarn during its
formation is known as Air-jet spinning. The air is blown through small holes arranged tangentially to
the yarn surface and this causes the yarn to rotate. The majority of systems using this technique
produce regular yarns, but by using two air jets operating in opposing twist directions it is possible to
produce yarns with more controlled properties but of more complex structure.

Image 1.8 Air Jet Spinning

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Ring Spinning:
A spinning system in which twist is inserted in a yarn by using a revolving traveller is known as Ring
spinning. The yarn is wound on since the rotational speed of the package is greater than that of the
traveler. Ring spinning can help creating more tightly spun coarser yarns, where other types of
spinning methods has many limitations.

Image 1.10 Ring Spinning

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Comparing Ring, Rotter and Air Jet Spun Yarns

Ring Rotor Air Jet

Strength High Less Medium
Hairiness High Medium Less
Imperfections High Less Medium
Mass Variation High Medium Less
Abrasion Resistance Less Less High
Manufacturing Cost High Less Medium
Pilling High Medium Less
Dye Absorption Less High High

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2. Properties of Yarns
Yarn is “a generic term for a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or material in a form
suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric”.

Yarns play an important role in the fabric manufacturing process since a majority of the textile
materials are constructed with yarns.

Yarns are also used for products such as sewing, embroidery, string, and rope. Yarns are produced in
various sizes and textures, and also vary in other characteristics.

Performance, end use, and fabric care are affected by these yarn characteristics.

Fiber length is used to broadly divide yarns into two categories.

1. Spun yarns (made from short, staple fibers)

2. Filament yarns (made from continuous filament fibers)

Yarn processing methods for spun yarns are very different from those of filament yarns

Image 2.1 Staple yarns and filament yarns

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Spun Yarns

Spun yarns are composed of short staple fibers, or long filament fibers that have been cut into short
staple fibers. Spun yarns may contain fibers of the same type or a blend of different fibers. The
spinning method used to manufacture the yarn affects properties such as uniformity and strength.

Image 2.2 Microscopic View of Staple Yarn

Filament Yarns

Majority of the filament yarns are extruded yarns, these are made of natural extruded fibers or
manufactured fibers extruded through the spinneret.

These yarns or fibers can be broadly divided into:

1. Monofilament Yarns
2. Multifilament Yarns

1. Monofilament yarn is made from a single, relatively thicker filament fiber. Transparent sewing
thread,/ metallic yarns, bare elastic, and fishing lines are examples of monofilament yarns. Silk is too
fine to be used as a monofilament yarn.

2. Multifilament yarn is made from multiple filament fibers. Continuous filament fibers length
requires little or no twisting to hold the multifilament yarn together.

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Image 2.3 Microscopic view of a multifilament yarn

Number of twists and Twist direction of Yarns

Yarns are twisted to give enough cohesion to the individual fibers, this is done for both staple and
filament yarns. While giving twist there are two variations that we can adjust. They are,

1. Direction of Twisting
2. Number of Twists per a given length

Direction of Twisting

The yarns can be twisted in the clockwise direction or in the anticlockwise direction. Based on the
direction of twisting the yarn receives a twist which can be expressed simply as “S” or “Z”. This
notation is based on the appearance of the yarn after twisting.

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Image 2.4 “S” and “Z” Twist

Number of Twists per a given length

Everybody may remember twisting of hay ropes at your younger ages. Can you remember the
difference happen to the hay rope based on the number of twists given, the same happens to the
yarns as well.

The purpose of twisting is basically to hold fibers or yarns together and increase cohesion between
them.

Image 2.5 Twisting of Hay yarns

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Yarn twist impacts the yarn's appearance, fineness, strength, and absorption to a point, the fineness
and strength increase with an increase in twist, but excessive twist causes yarn strength to decrease.
Absorption decreases with an increase in twist; however, in hydrophobic fibers even yarns with little
or no twist may not have good absorption.

In high twist yarns such as crepe, the twist increases the elasticity of the yarns, thus giving the fabric a
lively elasticity.

Some of the common uses for yarns with different twists are given below

o Filament yarns used for smooth fabrics have no or very low twist.
o Yarns used for napping, bulky sweaters, and pile in towels have low twist.
o Most spun yarns used for woven fabrics have average twist.
o Crepe yarns used for plain and crepe weave fabrics have high twist.

Image 2.6 Varying twists on a two ply yarn

Image 2.7 How to count twist per inch

Twists in yarn is normally expressed as twists per inch, the above image describes how it is counted.

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Categorizing of Yarns

Simple Yarns

1. Single Yarn
A Single Yarn Consists of only 1 yarn twisted or untwisted.
2. Plied Yarns
A Plied yarn contains 2 or more yarns twisted on each other
3. Cord Yarns
A Cord yarn contains twisted Plied yarns
4. Cable Yarns
Cable yarns are made by plying cords
5. Double Yarns
Double yarns are made by winding two or same types of yarns together.

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Image 2.8 Types of yarns based on number of single yarns

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Image 2.8.1 Double Yarn

Novelty / Fancy Yarns

Novelty yarns are sometimes called as fancy yarns, the variations of these yarns can be used to make
special effects on fabrics and embroideries.

1. Flock/flake yarns - have small tufts of different colored fibers added at intervals. These tufts
can be easily pulled out. Flock/flake yarns are generally single yarns.
2. Nub, knot, and spot yarns - are ply yarns in which the effect yarn is twisted around the base
yarn to produce a thicker area or a bump.
3. Bouclé and loop yarns - are ply yarns that use three sets of yarns – base or core yarn, effect
yarn, and tie yarn. The effect yarn is looped around the base or core yarn and tied with a
binder yarn.
4. Spiral and corkscrew yarns - are ply yarns in which one ply is soft and thick and the other is
fine.

Image 2.9.1 Slub Yarn

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2.9.2 Flock Yarn

2.9.3. Nub Yarn

2.9.4. Loop Yarn

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2.9.5 Corkscrew Yarn

Textured yarns are made out of fully drawn filament fibers with a changed surface, shape and texture
developed by using the new spinning techniques. Nylon and polyester are two main fibers that are
textured.

Textured yarns provide many variations in fabric properties. There are two main types of textured
yarns:

1. Stretch yarns
2. Bulk yarns

Stretch yarn can be made by using any of the following methods:

1. By using special heat setting treatment to thermoplastic filament fibers

2. From elastomeric fibers.
3. From bi-component fibers.
4. From bi-constituent fibers.
5. From chemically treated natural fibers.

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Image 2.10.1 Few types of Textured yarns can be used as Stretch Yarns

Bulk Yarns are softer and much pliable than tightly constructed twisted yarns. Bulk yarns are also
having a better cover. They create less transparent fabrics and are of two types:

1. High bulk yarns

2. Loop-bulk or airjet yarns

Image 2.10.2 Multifilament Textured Yarn

Image 2.10.3 various types of Textured Bulked Yarns

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3. Measuring of Yarns

We have discussed about manufacturing of yarns, how they are plied and direction of twist and
number of twists as well, all of these processes affect the yarn diameter and linear density. So there
should be a method to quantify the size or density of the yarns.

We do not speak about the size or diameter of a yarn because it is varying throughout the length, the
measuring of a yarn diameter also may be harder, since the length and the weight can be easily
measured, we consider about the linear density of yarns.

There are two methods of calculating linear density of yarns.

1. Direct System
Express: What is the weight of a unit length of this yarn?
2. Indirect System
Express: What is the length of a unit weight of this yarn?

Direct System

In Direct system we discuss the weight of a unit length of a yarn. Imagine a yarn having a diameter of
1mm, a meter of this yarn weights 5 grams. Now imagine the same kind yarn with 2mm diameter.
The weight of it should increase, because there is more material in it.

Therefor in Direct count system the yarn count increases with the diameter of the yarn.

Image 3.1 Changing of diameter of a yarn with Decitex ( Direct ) count System
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Direct Count Systems

1. Denier
2. Tex
3. Decitex

Denier

Denier count indicates the weight of 9000 meters of a yarn in grams.

Tex

Tex count indicates the weight of 1000 meters of a yarn in grams.

Decitex

Decitex count indicates the weight of 10,000 meters of a yarn in grams.

( You may note that Decitex is just the multiplication of Tex count by 10 )

Indirect System

The diameter of the yarn decreases with the increasing of yarn count in indirect system. We can say it
simply like this, the yarn count is indirectly proportional to yarn diameter in this system.

In this system we keep a weight as a constant and measure the length in it. Some of the methods of
indirect systems are Cotton count and Metric Count.

Image 3.2 Changing of Yarn Diameter in Cotton Count System

1. Cotton Count
Cotton count describes how many 840 Yds of hanks are there in a pound of a certain yarn
type.

Say you are given a 1 pound of cotton fiber , you begin to make yarns of a certain count, from
that yarn you make small creels of 840 yds, at the end of the given qty of fibers , you count
the number of hanks that you made. That is called the cotton count.

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You may be clear that, thinner the yarn that you make, you can make lot of hanks, and thicker
the yarns that you make, you can make less hanks. Less hanks means less yarn count and lot
of hanks means higher yarn count.
Now you can understand how the yarn counts decrees when the diameter increases in the
cotton count and other indirect system.

Image 3.3 Changing of Yarn Diameter with the yarn count in Cotton Count System.

Metric Count System

Metric count is simple and it describes how many meters are there per a gram of a certain yarn.

Nm = m / g

Let’s do some mathematics to widen your understanding about yarn count systems. Below constants
will be very much important for you.

Pounds in to Grams

Meters in to Yards

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Approximate yarn measurement comparison

Woolen Linen
Denier m/g Tex Worsted Cotton
(run) (lea)
50 180 5.6 160 106 56 298
75 120 8.3 106 72 37 198
100 90 11.1 80 53 28 149
150 60 16.6 53 35 19 99
200 45 22.2 40 27 14 74
300 30 33.4 27 18 9.3 50
400 22.5 44.4 20 13 7 37
500 18 55.5 16 11 5.6 30
700 12.9 77.7 11.4 7.6 4 2
1000 9 111 8 5.3 2.8 15
1500 6 166 5.3 3.5 1.9 10
2000 4.5 222 4 2.7 1.4 7

Chart 1.1 Approximate comparisons of yarn counts

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1. 1000 yards of a cotton yarn weights 20 grams

I. Calculate the Cotton count
II. Calculate the metric count
III. Calculate the Tex Count
IV. Calculate the Denier Count
(Answers in this question are rounded so may have some differences)

Let’s do the Calculations

1000 Yards = 20 grams

Denier = weight in grams of 9000 meters

How many meters are there 914.40

Weight of a single meter 0.02
Weight of 9000 meters 196.85 ( This is the denier count )

Tex = weight in grams of 1000 meters

Weight of a single meter 0.02

Weight of 1000 meters 21.87 ( This is the tex count )

Cotton count = how many 840 yds hanks in 1 pound

How many yards in 1 gram 50

How many yards in 1 pound 22679.50
How many 840 yds Hanks there 27.00 ( This is the Ne count)

Metric count = how many meters per gram

Number of meters 914.40

Number of grams 20

Nm count 45.72 ( This is the metric count)

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Ply yarn counts and Singles Equivalent

Spun yarns that are plied are expressed as 40/2.This means that two yarns of 40/1 each have been
Twisted together. The singles equivalent of a 50/2 is 25 count and of a 45/3 is 15 count.

Filament yarns if plied the usual method of expressing two-ply 40 denier yarn would be 80 denier.
In notation of filament yarns 40/13 means the size of whole yarn is 40 denier and there are 13
filaments composing it.

Image 3.4 Size and notation of filament yarns

Ticket Number of Sewing threads is calculated by multiplying Nm count by 3 . Anyway the ticket
numbers of some sewing threads varies with the supplier range.

References

http://global.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/568984/stretch-yarn

http://www.yarndex.com/yarn.cfm?yarn_id=6036

http://www.agteks.com/

Chamal Jayasinghe

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