MATERIAL ALLOWANCE There are systems to calculate “Material allowances” as shoe manufacturer need to predetermine the consumption of upper and lining leather required for a particular design and type ofleather. OBJECTIVE: Toestablish the initial costing of a system and to control the consumption of material by the Clicker, itis necessary to calculate the amount of material required for each style and leather type used. Any system for Predetermining the material consumption allowance needs the following attributes : 1. Consistency between styles and shoe sizes. 2. Consistency between material types 3. Sufficient accuracy to be used as a standard against which cutting results can be compared so that steps can be taken to eliminate excessive wastage. Itis important to get an accurate figure because: 1. The upper is typically the largest single item in the cost of materials of the shoe and sufficiently accurate figures are needed to set material consumption allowance for Product development, product costing and standard costing, 2. The profitability of the company depends on accurate costing, 3. The consumption allowance relating to a batch for a cli ALLOWANCE, and can be used as a basis for paymen against the allowance by the clicker. icker to cutis called CLICKER tt for results on “Leather saved” Scanned with GamScannerONE —- SYSTEMS AVAILABLE | i The following is a list of material allowance calculation systems that are stated in an | approximately historical order. | 4, Marking up; | 2. Graphical; 3.RSM; 4.SLM; 5. SATRASumm 1. MARKING UP: The cutting room supervisor or a similarly skilled cutting person, selects a skin or hide froma bundle of leather that is to be used for the st tyle. The skin is then marked by drawing the patterns onto its surface with due regard to cutting principles and quality requirements. Complete pairs are drawn, as far as possible and an allowance is calculated by dividing the area of the skin by the number of pairs obtained from the mark-up. Sometimes, the skin is marked on the reverse side so thatit can be subsequently used without having to clean off the marks from the surface. In this case a percentage is usually added that Teflects the amount of waste that would be encountered on the grain side because of flows and blemishes not seen on the reverse. PPPUTRAININGIHANDOUTICA:01/12/08 Scanned with GamScannerADVANTAGES: There is a permanent record of the cutting method used and quality standard: © Takes into account cutting principles and unavoidable waste. © Theallowance calculation can be justified to the cutters. Provided the person who marks the skin is skilled and the skin of leather is truly representative, then this should bea very accurate method. DISADVANTAGES: © Askilled trustworthy cutter is required to do the mark-up © Itcanbe time consuming particularly if there are many pattern items in the shoe set. © Itmay not truly emulate cutting practice (e.g. a cutter would probably cut more vamps. or more quarters from and individual skin rather than cut a complete number of parts © Itis usually not linked to a leather grading systems or shoe size adjustment system so individual cutting jobs may yield significantly different results to the calculated allowance. 2. GRAPHICAL: The complete patterns for one pair are laid out in the most compact and economical arrangement onto graph paper. Arectangle is then drawn around the patterns that enclosed FDDITRAINING/HANDOUTICA:01/12/08 Scanned with GamScannerthe set. Sometimes, the lines cut across the patterns to a degree. This assumes that the Parts that protrude could be accommodated in the gaps within the rectangle, The area of the rectangle is calculated by multiplying the length by the aa or counting up the number of squares covered. Apercentage is applied to this area to caloulate and provide allowance forthe pair. The percentage will usually vary according to the following : © Material type; © Material quality; © Average pattern area in relation to average material area: © Variations in size and width: fitting. These percentages area are usually based on apply the same percentage for ADVANTAGES: previous experience and some companies allsystems and materials. © Reasonably quick and easy to use. Permanent record of the calculation method, ° Less skillis required than the marking up method, DISADVANTAGES: © Itis subjective because the ori r iginal rectangle area could v i onthe interlocking skill ° pe ants icantly dependin: ofthe assessor. ae nga scienti ‘ance resulted in the publica vine z fic method of arriving at leather tion in 19; 22 of a system by M/s. W. W. RUSS FDDI/TRAINING/HANDOUTICA.01/12/08 Scanned with GamScannerand F.L. SMALL. , . , atl Amore scientific approach can give adequately accurate results and it is considered th system of this type posses may advantages. ‘The factor which effect the cutting results i.e. the factor to be considered for calculating material consumption are given below:~ |. Pattern area: This is the actual net area of the individual pattern item comprising the upper and the first waste or interlocking waste. The first waste is declined as the space left between two pattern Pieces, when interlocked together, due to irregularities in shape. This is also called "scale area’ and used as a basis for further phase in the system. ll. SECOND WASTE:.- This waste is additional to the firstwaste. It depends on the following factors: a. The shape of the skin to be used, because the pattern shape however fitted together will not coincide in outline with that of a skin which results in edge waste. b. The size (or area) of the skin in relation to the size of the individual pattern shapes. The larger the area, the smaller the waste and the smaller the area the larger the waste. ©. General shoe making considerations in which certain parts are to be cut from certain Portion of the skin or in certain direction according to the direction of stretch or shade Matching and colour matching in individual pieces as a result of which the interlocking arrangement may be destroyed. Pattern scale area when added with the second waste allowance is. called GROSS AREA (G). This depends on different kinds of leather also. For calculating ‘G’, we use certain empirical formulas as :- For Full Grain leather: G= S(1.205+S/A) Where: S=Pattern scale area A=Area of the skin 1.205 = This s an area addition that form pair ofthe mathematical equation, This factor fora particular kind of skin. \. This is a constant FDDITRAINING/HANDOUT/CA:01/12/08 Scanned with GamScannererthan the skin size e.g. ladies % cut court shoe 19) ISIA> 0,185i.e. ifthe pattemitem size is bigger NS = 8 (1.0: vamp tobe cut from goat leather then G,= (1 Inthe case of split leather: G,=S (1.098 + S/A) Ill, THIRD WASTE: Itrelates to the cuttability grades ofleather. Ona first grade oa normally an allowance of 3%is given, while on the other grades % allowance may vary IV. Further percentages are added to allow for different shoe sizes and fittings. ADJUSTMENT FOR SIZE AND FITTINGS: Different shoe sizes and fittings will require different cutting areas. The difference in Cutting area between one size and the next, and also between one fitting and the next will be in regular step in respect of any particular pattern. For example, in English size system or gents sizes 5% material allowances is given on the material allowance for each full size and 2.5% for each half size and in French system (Paris Points) in gents sizes 3.5% material allowance is given for each size. V. Some Extra allowance may be given for some other factors: For bicolour or multicolour styles, some extra allowan i i . ice may be giver edge taste will be more. In some cases, one can treat { mt colours as a se a to dif i Here also some extra allowance may be added. ferent colours as different batches. RSM PROCESS for material consumption calculation ; MEASUREMENT FOR SCALE AREA of the PATTERN, For calculating pat ranging tin'ecomeorne fh a4 tm srt assessed separ by pattern, the area of which includes twopalteins ares ana eeietve i to get jaltama.with ie mane ing waste. There is a king rule for arranging the Patterns ° adopted for this : is to make a 119m. Two methods are normally 1. 0° method 2. 180°method FDDI/TRAINING/HANDOUT/CA,9 1/12/08 Scanned with GamScanner41gm are The degree i.e. 0° or 180° method signifies whether the patterns while making 119 placed in the same direction as the first one i.e. at 0° or rotated at 180° ‘The assessor must make a judgment as to which is the most economical interlock. i aper ') if you are using computer paper, tape the lined paper together. If using a graph pap’ 10mm x 100mmis needed. ii) Drawastraight ine through the upper pattern supplied th iii) Draw the location points for future reference and all parts to be traced anywhere on the center ofthe paper jv) Always use the same footwhen tracing i.e. the pattern should not be turned over. PATTERN SCALING FOR 0°METHOD: The steps are as follows: 1. Lay the pattern to be traced down on the graph paper in Patterns alignedwith theline onthe paper,» PP" " SUCh a way that the line on the FDDI/TRAINING/HANDOUT/CA:01/12/08 Scanned with GamScanner2. Trace around the pattern with a_ sharp pencil to get a clear line and mark the location point. The next tracing is drawn in the same way as no. 1 in the same direction (ie. without rotating). Second pattern should touch the first pattern at two possible points. 4. Mark the location point and numberas pattern no. 2. To trace the 3" pattern, the pattern is rotated by 180° and it must touch 1* & 2" Pattern at least at two points, in either direction, aligning the center line. The location points and numberis marked. 6. The 4" tracing will be same as no. 3 and it must touch 1 & 3 or 2 & 3, at least at two Points. Location pointis marked and numbered as 4. The pattern is again rotated by 180° ie. in the same direction as no. 1. It should touch 3"&4" pattem atleast at two points. 8. The 6" tracing must face the same di rection as No.5 and should touch 4" & 5", or 3° & 5°, atleast at two points. area of the 11 gm is calculated (length & height) and this is is used as the basis for allowance Circulation. This is called th 1 “scale area of the pattern item”. PATTERN SCALING FOR 180° METHOD: The steps areas follows: 1. Uptostep 2 will be same as 0° method, 2. The pattem is then rot The second trace mu: onthe tracing and mai fated through exactly 180° and interlocked with the first pattern. ist touch the 1" trace at leas ttwo points. Mark the location points rk the traceno. 2. Itis again rotated though 180° and a third pattern is drawn so that it touches both 1" & 2 atleast at two points., in either direction (depends on the availability of space on the graph for further pattern), 4. Interlock the 4" tracin, '9. This should be interlocked with either 1" & 2" or 2 & 3%, but FDDI/TRAINING/HANDOUTICA: 201/12/08 Scanned with GamScanneral ; int should touch any of them at least at two points trace round and mark the location poi and number this trace no. 4. 180° - METHOD 5. The fifth trace must face the same direction as no. 1 and should touch 28 4", tracing atleast at one pointeach. It must face the two tracing in opposite direction. Mark the location point and no. as 5 6. The sixth trace faces the same way as no. 5 and should touch 2™ & 5” or 4" & 5", : location point is marked and itis numbered as 6. Thus, one ends up with 4 tracings in the same direction and two in the opposite direction. 11 gmis drawn using like points on the four patterns as corners ofthe 11 gm. PATTERN SCALING FOR SYMMETRICAL PATTERNS FOR SYNTHETIC & TEXTILE: 1. Drawacenterline on the pattem. This willbe the reference line and the two end points FDDI/TRAINING/HANDOUT/CA:01/12/08 Scanned with GamScannerareaas reference or location points. 2. Lay the pattem to be traced down on the Graph Paper in such a way that the line on the patterns aligned with the line on the paper. 3. Trace around the pattern and mark as no. 1. Location points are also marked 4. Rotate the pattern by 180° and booking 2mm gap with the 1“ pattern. 5. Again the patternis rotated by 180° and following the same rule, 3° pattern is traced and location points are marked, Then 11gm is made with the 1" and 3% patterns considering the location points of these Patterns as four comers on the 11gm. The area of the 11 gmis calculated which gives “scale area’ ofthat particular pattern. Length of the synthetics is divided by the length of 11. gm and width by the width. The multiplication of these will give number of pairs to be cut out of that area and hence the area divided by no. of pairs will give consumption/pair. The results of the scaling and the adjustments to be made to the scale area per pair for the effect of the various factors, already mentioned are assembled together in the form ofa table {0 get the material consumption allowance. This will be the material consumption for that Particular shoe size. Allowance for different size & fitting is added to calculate material consumption of particular order of a specific style. Points to watch while calculating material consumption, by RSM method: 1. Donotturn over the pattern while doing pattern scaling. 2. Use the mosteconomical interlocking position. 3. Always ensure that the center line drawn on the patterns are Parallel to the lines on the graph paper and the center line should neverbe thick. 4. Make sure that the patterns donot overlap, 5. Sometimes it may be interlock. This can b pattern). necessary to position a 7” pattern in b e showninthe diagram by th etween to achieve the best 'e dotted line. (To be shown with same VAP.'S Whichever method is used, i tofind cuttability and area disci is important that each new deli Suet, Very of leather must be assessed FDDI/TRAINING/HANDOUTICA:01/12/08 Scanned with GamScannerR.S.M. ALLOWANCE SHEET Date : Average Skin Size Article No. Leather Grade Leather type S.No. | Part No.Of | Scaling [Pattern Comp. | Dimen-sions|Scale_| Gross pattern area (G)dm2 Perpair | (CM) Area(S) Dm2 Material 1|Material 2 | Material 3 Total GrossArea : 3° Wastage Allowance FDDI/TRAINING/HANDOUT/CA:01/12/08 Scanned with GamScannerR.S.M. ALLOWANCE SHEET Average Skin Size : 120 dm* Article No. Date : 17774 22/10/2006 LeatherGrade : B Leather type : Full Grain S.No] Part | No.of | Scaling Pattern Comp. | Dimensions] Scale Gross pattern area(G) dm2 Perpair| (cm) Area(S) Dm2 Material 1|Material 2) Material3 1. Vamp | 2 37.5X13 4.87 6.065, 2. Cutter | 4 26.6x9.5 2.52x2=50m | 6.065 3. Tongue} 2 12x5.7, 68 823 Total Gross Area : 13.172 3" Ww baie) 1.053 Allowani . lqaooe at mt 14.225 dm ‘DDI/TRAINING/HANDOUT/CA:0 1/12/08 Scanned with GamScanner