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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF
FOOD GRAINS
Second Edition
This page intentionally left blank
ENCYCLOPEDIA OF
FOOD GRAINS
Second Edition
VOLUME 1
THE WORLD OF FOOD GRAINS
EDITORS
COLIN WRIGLEY
University of Queensland, Brisbane, Australia

HAROLD CORKE
University of Hong Kong, Hong Kong, People’s Republic of China

KOUSHIK SEETHARAMAN{

JON FAUBION
Kansas State University, Manhattan KS, USA

{
deceased

AMSTERDAM • BOSTON • HEIDELBERG • LONDON


NEW YORK • OXFORD • PARIS • SAN DIEGO
SAN FRANCISCO • SINGAPORE • SYDNEY • TOKYO
Academic Press is an imprint of Elsevier
Academic Press is an imprint of Elsevier
The Boulevard, Langford Lane, Kidlington, Oxford OX5 1GB
225 Wyman Street, Waltham MA 02451

First edition 2004 (as Encyclopedia of Grain Science)

Copyright © 2016 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved

The following articles are US government works in the public domain and are not subject to copyright:

Grain Crops, Overview; Maize Overview.

No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including
photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Details on
how to seek permission, further information about the Publisher’s permissions policies and our arrangements with organizations such as
the Copyright Clearance Center and the Copyright Licensing Agency, can be found at our website: www.elsevier.com/permissions.

This book and the individual contributions contained in it are protected under copyright by the Publisher (other than as may be noted
herein).

Notice
Knowledge and best practice in this field are constantly changing. As new research and experience broaden our understanding, changes in
research methods, professional practices, or medical treatment may become necessary.

Practitioners and researchers may always rely on their own experience and knowledge in evaluating and using any information, methods,
compounds, or experiments described herein. In using such information or methods they should be mindful of their own safety and the
safety of others, including parties for whom they have a professional responsibility.

To the fullest extent of the law, neither the Publisher nor the authors, contributors, or editors, assume any liability for any injury and/or
damage to persons or property as a matter of products liability, negligence or otherwise, or from any use or operation of any methods,
products, instructions, or ideas contained in the material herein.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data


A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data


A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

SET ISBN 978-0-12-394437-5


VOLUME 1 ISBN 978-0-12-803537-5
VOLUME 2 ISBN 978-0-12-803536-8
VOLUME 3 ISBN 978-0-12-803535-1
VOLUME 4 ISBN 978-0-12-803538-2

For information on all publications


visit our website at http://store.elsevier.com

Printed and bound in the UK.

Publisher: Lisa Tickner


Acquisition Editor: Rachel Gerlis
Content Project Manager: Mark Harper
Production Project Manager: Paul Prasad Chandramohan
Designer: Victoria Pearson Esser
CONTENTS

Preface xvii
Tributes to Former Co-Editors xix
Editors‘ Biography xxiii
Editorial Advisory Board xxv
Contributors xxvii

VOLUME 1

THE WORLD OF FOOD GRAINS 1

The Basics 1
The Grains that Feed the World 1
CW Wrigley, H Corke, and J Faubion

Course Structures: Based on EFG Articles 13


H Corke

The Grain Crops: An Overview 16


RA Graybosch

The Grain Chain: The Route from Genes to Grain-Based Products 22


CW Wrigley

Taxonomic Classification of Grain Species 31


LA Morrison and CW Wrigley

Grain: Morphology of Internal Structure 41


H Corke

Grain and Plant Morphology of Cereals and how characters can be used to identify varieties 51
J Wyatt

The Cereal Grains 73


An Overview of the Family of Cereal Grains Prominent in World Agriculture 73
CW Wrigley

Cereals: Domestication of the Cereal Grains 86


LA Morrison

Maize: Overview 99
MP Scott and M Emery

Wheat: An Overview of the Grain That Provides ‘Our Daily Bread’ 105
CW Wrigley

v
vi Contents

Durum Wheat: Overview 117


GP Kadkol and M Sissons

Rice: Overview 125


BO Juliano

Wildrice, Zizania: Overview 130


EA Oelke and RA Porter

African Rice (Oryza glaberrima): A Brief History and Its Growing Importance in Current
Rice Breeding Efforts 140
JT Manful and S Graham-Acquaah

Barley: An Overview of a Versatile Cereal Grain with Many Food and Feed Uses 147
AM Stanca, A Gianinetti, F Rizza, and V Terzi

Sorghum Grain, Its Production and Uses: Overview 153


A Cruickshank

Rye Grain: Its Genetics, Production, and Utilization 159


HD Sapirstein and W Bushuk

Triticale: Overview 168


BJ Furman

Oats: Overview 173


PK Zwer

Coix: Overview 184


H Corke, Y Huang, and JS Li

Millet Pearl: Overview 190


JRN Taylor

Millet Minor: Overview 199


GK Chandi and GA Annor

Teff: Overview 209


G Bultosa

The Oilseeds 221


Oilseeds: Overview 221
RJ Mailer

Soybean: Overview 228


K Liu

Canola: Overview 237


VJ Barthet

Cottonseed: Overview 242


E Hernandez

Sunflower: Overview 247


GJ Seiler and TJ Gulya

Overview of the Oilseed Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) 254


C Hall III

Linseed: Overview 259


S Cloutier

The Legumes and Pseudocereals 265


Grain Legumes and Their Dietary Impact: Overview 265
TE Michaels
Contents vii

Pseudocereals: Overview 274


RJ Fletcher

Lupin: Overview 280


DS Petterson

Amaranth: Overview 287


H Corke, YZ Cai, and HX Wu

Beans: Overview 297


SK Sathe

Buckwheat: Overview 307


YZ Cai, H Corke, D Wang, and WD Li

Chickpea: Overview 316


EJ Knights and KB Hobson

Pea: Overview 324


TN Khan, A Meldrum, and JS Croser

Peanuts: Overview 334


RCN Rachaputi and G Wright

Quinoa: Overview 341


SA Valencia-Chamorro

Grains Around the World 349


Grain Production and Consumption: Overview 349
T Beta and C Isaak

Grain Production and Consumption: Africa 359


JRN Taylor

Production and Consumption of Grains: India 367


BS Khatkar, N Chaudhary, and P Dangi

Grain Production and Consumption: China and South-East Asia 374


H Corke and YZ Cai

Grain Production and Consumption: Europe 383


MG Lindhauer

Grain Production and Consumption: Cereal Grains in North America 391


JA Fox and LL Ward

Grain Production and Consumption: Oilseeds in North America 401


PBE McVetty, OM Lukow, LM Hall, I Rajcan, and H Rahman

Grain Production and Consumption in Oceania: Australia and Pacific Countries 409
CW Wrigley and RJ French

Grain Production and Consumption: South America 420


OR Larroque and JC Catullo

Scientific Organizations Related to Grains 429


Research Organizations of the World: CGIAR 429
JH Skerritt

Research Organizations of the World: Europe and North America 436


JH Skerritt

Research Organizations of the World: Asia-Pacific, Central–South America, and Africa–Middle East 444
JH Skerritt
viii Contents

Research Organizations of the World: Global Trends and the Commercial Sector 451
JH Skerritt

Scientific Societies Associated with Grain Science 457


SC Nelson and CW Wrigley

VOLUME 2

NUTRITION AND FOOD GRAINS 1

Food Grains and Well-Being 1


Functional Foods: Overview 1
G Bultosa

Functional Foods: Dietary Fibers, Prebiotics, Probiotics, and Synbiotics 11


G Bultosa

Nutrition: Soy-Based Foods 17


AM Fehily

Food Grains and the Consumer 23


Grains and Health: Misinformation and Misconceptions 23
DB Sheats and JM Jones

Consumer Trends in Grain Consumption 29


JM Jones and DB Sheats

Cultural Differences in Processing and Consumption 35


AMR Hayes and JM Jones

Fortification of Grain-Based Foods 43


CM Rosell

Genetically Modified Grains and the Consumer 50


A Mathiowetz and JM Jones

Labelling of Grain-Based Foods 57


JM Jones

Grains and Health 63


R Korczak, D Hauge, B Maschoff, L Marquart, P Jacques, R Lindberg, and R Menon

Food Grains: Intolerance, Allergy and Diseases 72


Cereal Allergens 72
AS Tatham

Nutrition: Beriberi, A Deficiency Related to Grains 77


KJ Carpenter

Celiac Disease 83
P Koehler, H Wieser, and KA Scherf

The Gluten-Free Diet 91


V Zevallos and I Herencia

Proteins 98
The Protein Chemistry of Cereal Grains 98
F Békés and CW Wrigley

The Protein Chemistry of Dicotyledonous Grains 109


PR Shewry
Contents ix

Protein Synthesis and Deposition 115


PR Shewry and P Tosi

Nitrogen Metabolism 123


CA Atkins

Nitrogen in Grain Production Systems 129


XM Zhou, BL Ma, and DL Smith

The Enzymes Associated with Food Grains and Their Functions in Processing 138
DJ Mares, K Mrva, and GB Fincher

Proteomic Analysis Relevant to Cereal Grains 146


A Juhász, R Haraszi, F Békés, DJ Skylas, and CW Wrigley

Thiolomics of the Gluten Protein Network of Wheat Dough 154


F Bonomi and S Iametti

Carbohydrates 161
Carbohydrate Metabolism 161
RN Chibbar, S Jaiswal, M Gangola, and M Båga

Starch: Chemistry 174


FL Stoddard

Starch: Synthesis 181


A Regina, S Rahman, Z Li, and MK Morell

Starch: Starch Architecture and Structure 190


V Vamadevan and Q Liu

Starch: Analysis of Quality 198


A Gunaratne and H Corke

Cereals: Chemistry and Physicochemistry of Non-starchy Polysaccharides 208


GB Fincher

Grains other than Cereals: Non-starch Polysaccharides 224


L Ramsden

Resistant Starch and Health 230


A Evans

Health Effects of b-Glucans Found in Cereals 236


SM Tosh and S Shea Miller

Glycemic Index, Glycemic Load, and Their Health Benefits 241


D Dan Ramdath

Fats 248
Lipid Chemistry 248
L Day

Healthy Fats and Oils 257


SM Ghazani and AG Marangoni

Bioactives and Toxins 268


Bioactive Compounds in Wheat Bran 268
HD Sapirstein

Bioactives: Antioxidants 277


T Beta and KG Duodu
x Contents

The Antinutritional Components of Grains 283


CK Madsen and H Brinch-Pedersen

Mycotoxins 290
MT Fletcher and BJ Blaney

Grain Composition and Analysis 297


The Composition of Food Grains and Grain-Based Products 297
CW Wrigley

Standardized Test Methods for Grains and Grain-Based Products 300


AR Bridges and CW Wrigley

Units of Grain Science and Trade: Equivalence between the US, Chinese, and Metric Units 308
W Huang and CW Wrigley

VOLUME 3

GRAIN-BASED PRODUCTS AND THEIR PROCESSING 1

Wheat-Based Foods 1
Cereals: Overview of Uses: Accent on Wheat Grain 1
CF Morris

Breads 8
TR Moore

Flatbreads of the World 19


KJ Quail

Sour Dough Technology 25


SP Cauvain

Cakes, Muffins and Bagels 30


DE Ortiz

Cookies, Biscuits and Crackers: Formulation, Processing and Characteristics 37


SP Cauvain

Cookies: A Diverse Family of Baked Goods 44


S Zydenbos, V Humphrey-Taylor, and CW Wrigley

Wafers: Methods of Manufacture 51


K Tiefenbacher and CW Wrigley

Cookies and Crackers: Commercial Production 59


LC Paulson and CW Wrigley

Noodles: Starch 64
LS Collado and H Corke

Noodles: Asian Wheat Flour Noodles 72


GB Crosbie and AS Ross

Pasta 79
M Sissons

Tortillas 90
LW Rooney and SO Serna-Saldivar

Non-wheat Foods 97
Maize: Foods from Maize 97
SO Serna-Saldivar
Contents xi

Rice: Chinese Food Uses 110


S Lu

Sorghum: Utilization 116


RD Waniska, LW Rooney, and CM McDonough

Soybean: Soy-Based Fermented Foods 124


DK O’Toole

Soybean: Soymilk, Tofu, and Okara 134


DK O’Toole

Food-quality Testing 144


The Application of Sensory Science to the Evaluation of Grain-Based Foods 144
LM Duizer and SB Walker

Noodles: Testing for Quality 154


VA Solah and GB Crosbie

Pasta: Quality Testing Methods 161


A Marti, MG D’Egidio, and MA Pagani

Rice: Eating Quality 166


JS Bao

Beverages from Grains 176


Fermentation: Origins and Applications 176
BJB Wood

Fermentation: Foods and Nonalcoholic Beverages 183


JRN Taylor

Beverages: Distilled 193


GH Palmer

Beverages: Asian Alcoholic Beverages 206


DK O’Toole

Non-food Products from Grains 215


Cereal Grains as Animal Feed 215
JL Black

Pet Foods 223


RCE Guy

Utilization of the Whole Cereal Plant to Maximize its Value 228


L Munck

Fuel Alcohol Production 235


YN Guragain, KV Probst, and PV Vadlani

Biodiesel 245
Y Yan

Processing of Grains 251


Evaluation of Wheat-Grain Quality Attributes 251
CF Morris

Grain Quality Attributes for Cereals Other than Wheat 257


CF Morris
xii Contents

Cereals: Breakfast Cereals 262


EF Caldwell, JD McKeehen, and RS Kadan

Extrusion Technologies 268


RCE Guy

Starch: Uses of Native Starch 274


JW Lawton

Starch: Modification 282


JN BeMiller

b-Glucans: Measurement and Processing 287


MS Izydorczyk

Wheat Processing 299


Milling and Baking: History 299
CE Walker and WD Eustace

Wheat: Dry Milling 307


AK Sarkar and JE Dexter

Wet Milling of Wheat 320


R Velicogna and S Shea Miller

Oven Technologies 325


CE Walker

Bakeries: The Source of Our Unique Wheat-Based Food, Bread 335


JE Bock, CW Wrigley, and CE Walker

Analysis of Dough Rheology in Breadmaking 343


B Dobraszczyk

Frozen Dough 354


D Domingues and C Dowd

Refrigerated Dough 359


D Domingues, C Dowd, and W Atwell

Chemistry of Cake Manufacturing 367


TS Palav

The Gluten Proteins of the Wheat Grain in Relation to Flour Quality 375
F Békés, MC Gianibelli, and CW Wrigley

Ultrastructure of the Wheat Grain, Flour, and Dough 384


S Grundas and CW Wrigley

Cereal Food Production with Low Salt 396


L Day

Baked Product Staling: Mechanisms, Determinations, and Anti-staling Strategies 403


A Goldstein and K Seetharaman

Gluten and Modified Gluten 408


IL Batey and W Huang

Snack Foods: Processing 414


MN Riaz

Barley, Rice and Maize Processing 423


Barley: Malting 423
L MacLeod and E Evans

Barley: Milling and Processing 434


MS Izydorczyk and JE Dexter
Contents xiii

Rice Processing: Beyond the Farm Gate 446


L Pallas

Oil from Rice and Maize 453


JS Godber

Maize: Dry Milling 458


KD Rausch and SR Eckhoff

Maize: Wet Milling 467


KD Rausch and SR Eckhoff

Oilseed and Legume Processing 482


Soybean: Soy Concentrates and Isolates 482
C-Y Ma

Soybean: Processing 489


T Wang

Canola: Processing 497


JK Daun and EH Unger

VOLUME 4

THE PRODUCTION AND GENETICS OF FOOD GRAINS 1

Grain Marketing and Grading 1


Wheat: Grading and Segregation 1
RL Cracknell and RM Williams

Wheat: Marketing 9
RL Cracknell and RM Williams

Barley: Grading and Marketing 16


A MacLeod, M Edney, and MS Izydorczyk

Soybean: Grading and Marketing 25


EG Hammond, LA Johnson, and PA Murphy

Identification of Varieties of Food Grains 29


DM Miskelly and CW Wrigley

Grain Harvest, Storage and Transport 42


Wheat: Harvesting, Transport, and Storage 42
S Grundas and CW Wrigley

Barley: Harvesting, Storage, and Transport 50


RJ Henry

Sorghum: Harvest, Storage, and Transport 54


T Beta, M Chisi, and ES Monyo

Canola: Harvest, Transport, and Storage 62


JJ Mayko

Cereals: Grain Defects 68


SA Barton

The Nature, Causes, and Control of Grain Diseases in the Major Cereal Species 74
RA McIntosh, PM Williamson, and CW Wrigley

Contaminants of Grain 83
J McLean and CW Wrigley
xiv Contents

Chemicals for Grain Production and Protection 99


PC Annis

Handling from Farm to Storage Terminal 105


D Richard-Molard and CW Wrigley

Stored Grain: Invertebrate Pests 110


PC Annis

Postharvest Operations for Quality Preservation of Stored Grain 117


F Fleurat-Lessard

Stored-Grain Pest Management 126


F Fleurat-Lessard

Agronomy of Grain Growing 140


Implication of Climate Changes 140
S Ceccarelli

Sustainable Grain Production and Utilization 144


L Munck

Organic Grain Production and Food Processing 154


P Gélinas and C David

Precision Agriculture 162


EC Leonard

Plants: Diseases and Pests 168


SA Barton

Wheat: Agronomy 176


GM Paulsen, JP Shroyer, and KJ Shroyer

Barley: Agronomy 186


RD Horsley and M Hochhalter

Maize: Agronomy 194


ED Nafziger

Sorghum: Production and Improvement Practices 201


WL Rooney

Canola: Agronomy 207


NJ Mendham and MJ Robertson

Chickpea: Agronomy 216


KHM Siddique and L Krishnamurthy

Lentil: Agronomy 223


T Nleya, A Vandenberg, FL Walley, and D Deneke

Lupin: Agronomy 231


RJ French

Field Pea: Agronomy 240


RJ French

Soybean: Agronomy 251


ED Nafziger

Natural Disease Control in Cereal Grains 257


WK Mousa and MN Raizada

Wheat: Biotrophic Pathogen Resistance 264


RF Park
Contents xv

Necrotrophic Pathogens of Wheat 273


RP Oliver, K-C Tan, and CS Moffat

Breeding of Grains 279


Wheat Breeding: Exploiting and Fixing Genetic Variation by Selection and Evaluation 279
R DePauw and L O’Brien

Barley: Genetics and Breeding 287


A Cuesta-Marcos, JG Kling, AR Belcher, T Filichkin, SP Fisk, R Graebner, L Helgerson, D Herb, B Meints, AS Ross,
PM Hayes, and SE Ulrich

Maize: Breeding 296


EA Lee and LW Kannenberg

Rice: Breeding 304


Qingyao Shu and Dianxing Wu

Canola/Rapeseed: Genetics and Breeding 311


PBE McVetty and RW Duncan

Lentil: Breeding 317


W Erskine, A Sarker, and S Kumar

Lupin: Breeding 325


LC Trugo, E von Baer, and D von Baer

Soybean: Germplasm, Breeding, and Genetics 333


RG Palmer and T Hymowitz

Genetics of Grains 343


Development of Genetically Modified Grains 343
L Privalle

Detection of Genetically Modified Grains 350


RD Shillito

Genomics of Food Grains 360


RJ Henry

Genome Mapping 365


VK Tiwari, JD Faris, B Friebe, and BS Gill

Wheat Genetics 376


RA McIntosh

Wheat Genetics and Genomics 382


E Akhunov

Biotic Stress Resistance Genes in Wheat 388


J Singla and SG Krattinger

Abiotic Stress Genes and Mechanisms in Wheat 393


SJ Roy, NC Collins, and R Munns

Rice: Genetics 398


JS Bao and H Corke

Maize: Genetics 407


EA Lee

Maize: Quality Protein Maize 420


JS Li and SK Vasal

Maize: Other Maize Mutants 425


MH Blanco, H Yangcheng, and J Jane
xvi Contents

Appendix 1. Nutrient-Composition Tables for Grains and for Grain-Based Products 433
SF Schakel, N Van Heel, and J Harnack

Appendix 2. Lists of Standardized Testing Methods for the Analysis of Grain and Grain-Based Foods 450
AR Bridges and CW Wrigley

Appendix 3. Grains, Foods, and Ingredients Suiting Gluten-Free Diets for Celiac Disease 460
JM Jones, V Zevallos, and CW Wrigley

Glossary 467
Index 491
PREFACE

The grain-producing plants are essential to life on earth. They are the primary means by which sunlight, the
primary source of the earth’s energy, is captured via photosynthesis to turn carbon dioxide and water into
carbohydrates and thus into the wider range of the biochemicals needed by all life forms.
The summary is simple:
The sun’s energy þ CO2 þ H2O
#
Grain-bearing plants
which provide:
Food, Fats, Fuel and Fiber for ourselves
Feed, Forage, Fodder for our animals
Food for Fish Farms

Directly, grains supply over half of humanity’s energy and protein.


Indirectly, grains contribute to our food supply via the feeding of grains and grain by-products to animals,
birds and fish.
Grains are increasingly a renewable source of fuels (ethanol and oils).
Grain species, such as cottonseed, contribute fiber for our clothing.

Grains to Feed and Fuel our World

As its title indicates, the Encyclopedia of Food Grains concentrates on the food uses of grains, but details are also
provided about the wider roles of grains. Greater detail about the use of grains for animal feeding is already
available via the on-line Feedipedia encyclopedia (http://www.feedipedia.org/).
Worldwide, however, it is our food that is our obsession – first and foremost. We see our health (or
otherwise) to be intimately related to our diet. Therefore nutrition is a major accent of this second edition,
occupying the whole of the second volume, following the first volume’s description of the basic aspects of the
world of grains. The third and fourth volumes work their ways back up the value-added grain chain to describe
grain processing and production, thence to breeding and genetics.
The sequence of articles in the first edition (the Encyclopedia of Grain Science, 2004) followed an alphabetical
order. In contrast, the distinct ordering of articles in the second edition assembles fundamental concepts in
Volume 1 – The World of Food Grains. Moving into the later volumes, greater complexity and erudition are
evident. Thus, unusual terms such as “Transcriptomics”, “Aeciospore” and “Allelopathy” are more likely to be
found in later volumes than in the first. In any case, reference to the glossary and the index should help in
elucidating such terms.

The First and Second Editions - Editors

This second edition is a considerable expansion on the content of the first edition, with its three print volumes
and 168 articles. Now, some twelve years later, the four print volumes of the Encyclopedia of Food Grains provide

xvii
xviii Preface

216 articles, many newly written for the new edition. Those articles that have been reprinted from the first
edition have been updated. In all cases, authors and reviewers are world renowned experts in their respective
fields.
This second edition has been more than three years in its development. In the early stages, the editors were
Harold Corke, Chuck Walker and Colin Wrigley (the three editors of the first edition). Sadly in 2012, Chuck
Walker passed away, leaving a gap that was difficult to fill.
Chuck was replaced by Koushik Seetharaman, who worked avidly in developing the concepts for this second
edition, including his contributions to a meeting of the editors and Elsevier staff in Sydney, January, 2013.
Sadly, Koushik suffered a heart attack in June, 2014. However, his contributions to the second edition during
this critical development stage were such that Elsevier decided that his name should remain as a co-editor.
Tributes to Professors Walker and Seetharaman are provided below.
In July, 2014, Professor Jon Faubion was appointed as a co-editor. Dr Faubion is the Charles Singleton
Professor of Baking and Cereal Science in the Department of Grain Science, Kansas State University. He is a
more than worthy replacement under such tragic circumstances.

Acknowledgement to All Involved

The production of an encyclopedia involves a wide range of experts with expertise in a diversity of areas of
knowledge. We acknowledge with grateful thanks the groups of contributors:
• Members of the Editorial Advisory Board;
• Authors who have shared their special knowledge and experience;
• Elsevier staff who have provided extensive advice and administrative services, especially Donna de
Weerd-Wilson, Simon Holt and Rachel Gerlis (successive Supervisory Staff) and Gemma Tomalin,
Gemma Taft, Joanne Williams and Mark Harper (successive Content Project Managers).
The Editors
Harold Corke, Jon Faubion, Koushik Seetharaman, and Colin Wrigley
TRIBUTES TO FORMER CO-EDITORS

Professor Emeritus Charles (‘Chuck’) E. Walker

Chuck Walker was one of the three editors of the first edition of Elsevier’s Grains
Encyclopedia (the Encyclopedia of Grain Science, 2004). He was again appointed
as an editor of this second edition. He participated in the planning stages for the
second edition until his untimely death on 26 April 2012. At the time of his
death, Chuck was a Professor Emeritus at the Department of Grain Science and
Industry at Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA.
Charles Eugene Walker was born on 17 December 1936, in Winterset, Mad-
ison county, IA, USA, during the great depression. He was the eldest child of
Albert Cecil and Bessie Irene Headley Walker, poor farmers in Winterset, Mad-
ison county, IA, USA. He walked more than a mile to attend rural one-room
grammar schools in Warren county and graduated from high school in New
Virginia, IA, USA.
Better known as ‘Chuck’ in later life, Dr Walker received a BS degree in
Chemical Engineering from Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA, in May 1959. At a ‘mixer’ party in the fall
of 1957, he met Shannon Rose Philp, a pretty freshman student from Loup city, NE, USA. This was just after a
summer spent working alone on a fire-lookout tower for the US Forest Service, in the wilds of Clearwater
National Forest, in Northern Idaho. They were married on 1 June 1958 and she became his wife of 54 years. She
later rewarded him with two sons, Alan Eugene and Tomas Charles, and they adopted a daughter, Bekianne.
Upon graduation, Chuck worked in flour milling research at the General Mills Central Research Laboratories
in the Minneapolis area from 1959 to 1962. He then accepted a fellowship to graduate school at North Dakota
State University in Fargo from 1962 to 1965, majoring in Cereal Chemistry. Chuck received his PhD in
Chemistry in the summer of 1966. For his PhD dissertation, he developed a micro brewery and studied barley
proteins and their influence on beer quality – a rather ironic choice of topics, considering he remained a strict
teetotaler all his life.
While finishing his thesis, he joined the faculty of the North Dakota State College, Valley city, ND, USA
(1965–1974), teaching various physical science and chemistry courses to undergraduate students. Feeling the
pull of industry, he moved south to work for the Fairmont Foods Central Research Laboratory in Omaha, NE,
USA (1974–1980), where he did research, product development, and technical assistance on baking, pizza,
snack, and dairy products, eventually reaching the position of Associate Director of Research.
Dismemberment and sale of this Fortune-500 company provided him an opportunity to return to academia
at the University of Nebraska, Lincoln, NE, USA (1980–1987), where he developed a Cereal Technology
Program within the Department of Food Technology. He developed and taught various food science and
technology courses to both undergraduate and graduate students, and developed a vigorous research program.
He became Interim Department Head and Food Processing Center Director.
In December 1987, Chuck joined the Department of Grain Science and Industry at Kansas State University as
the Bakers National Educational Foundation’s Baking Science Professor. There he maintained a busy program

xix
xx Tributes to Former Co-Editors

in research, teaching, graduate student advising, publishing, traveling and consulting, specializing in baking
technology.
During his career, Chuck published more than 100 technical papers, and advised about 50 MS and PhD
graduate students. He was heavily involved in applied rheology (mixing and flow characteristics) of flour
products. In recognition of his commitment to international graduate students, Mr Roland Temme, TMCO,
Lincoln, NE, USA, established an international graduate student fellowship in his honor.
Chuck entered 50% phased-in retirement at age 65 þ in 2002 and retired in 2005, only to be hired back 1/
10-time afterward to assist with seminars and the department’s centennial recognition in 2010. He continued
to support the department’s activities on a volunteer basis.
Chuck’s research and consulting travels took him to more than a dozen countries, including many extended
trips to Australia, eventually earning permanent resident status in Australia – a country which had fascinated
him since childhood. Most of his time in Australia was spent with the Bread Research Institute in Sydney. He
also made several extended trips to China, serving as guest lecturer at ShanDong Agricultural University, Tai’An,
and at Henan University of Technology, Zhengzhou.
Chuck always commented that “the best legacy a person could leave is the knowledge he has shared.” A
significant way in which his knowledge has been shared is represented by his contributions to the first and
second editions of Elsevier’s Encyclopedia of Food Grains.

Colin Wrigley on behalf of the Editors.

Professor Koushik Seetharaman

In August 2012, Koushik Seetharaman was appointed as the third editor of this
second edition of Elsevier’s Grains Encyclopedia, replacing Professor Walker.
Tragically, Koushik’s many contributions to the Encyclopedia of Food Grains were
cut short by his untimely death at 48 years in June 2014.
Koushik received his BS at the Gujarat Agricultural University, Anand, Guja-
rat, India. His MS training was at Cornell University, Ithaca, NY, USA, and his
PhD research was carried out at Texas A&M University, College Station, TX, USA.
At the time of Koushik’s appointment as encyclopedia editor (August 2012),
he was Associate Professor and Cereals Chair in the Department of Food Science
at the University of Guelph, Canada. Research in his laboratory spanned the
cereal-grain value chain, focusing on grain quality, processing and ingredient
interactions, and on consumer acceptability and health.
His research on grain quality at Guelph involved collaboration with cereal-breeding companies, grain
farmers of Ontario and local processors, by analyzing Ontario wheats for functionality and nutritional
attributes. Special accents were on antioxidant activity, and on fiber and phenolics contents. Interactions
with breeders and processor related to the chemistry, sensory properties and consumer acceptance of whole
grain products, with specific focus on red versus white wheats in different product matrices.
Koushik had a special interest in the behavior of starch in water-poor systems, such as dough and baked
products. His research group had demonstrated that the constituent polymers of wheat starch are a series of
biopolymers ranging from linear to branched, depending on several factors including genetics and growth
environment. Moreover, the proportion of these polymers further defines their functional properties.
Research funding had been provided by the Canadian Agricultural Adaptation Council with contributions
from the Ontario Cereal Industry Research Council, Kellogg, Kraft, Kraft Canada Mill, Dow AgroSciences, C&M
Seeds, Grain Farmers of Ontario and Brabender GmbH.
Several months before his death, Koushik had been appointed as an Associate Professor to the Department
of Food Science and Nutrition at the University of Minnesota, St Paul, MN, USA, there taking the position of
General Mills Cereal Chair. In that capacity, Koushik had again initiated collaborations with breeders and
geneticists, millers and processors, with a focus on what product quality means for the consumer. His research
focused on interactions of grain biopolymers – starch and gluten in particular – and the impact on processing,
product attributes and consumer health.
Tributes to Former Co-Editors xxi

His group included three postdoctoral research associates, five doctoral students and one MS student. They
were collaborating extensively with research groups around the world including University of Milan, Italy;
University of Copenhagen, Denmark; Lille University, France; ONIRIS, France; Tamilnadu Agricultural Uni-
versity, India; Iowa State University, USA; African Rice Research Institute, Benin; University of Guelph, Canada;
and Memorial University, Newfoundland, Canada.
Koushik’s research background and his collaborations placed him well to contribute to the preparation of
the grains encyclopedia, both by his our writing and via his contacts to engage world-authority contributors.
The grain-science community world-wide was shocked by Koushik’s sudden passing. Koushik left a wife
Debra Freedman and an eight-year-old son, Samuel.
Koushik’s contribution to the encyclopedia was such that Elsevier decided that his name should remain as a
co-editor even though he did not live to see the end result of his contributions.

Colin Wrigley on behalf of the Editors.


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EDITORS’ BIOGRAPHY

Colin W. Wrigley’s 55 years in grain-science research have earned him international recognition in
the form of several international and Australian research awards. His work is described in about
600 research publications, including several patents, a series of eight books on Australian cereal
varieties, and many edited books. He was Editor-in-Chief of the first edition of the Encyclopedia of
Grain Science (2004).
His research interests have centered on the characterization of cereal-grain proteins in relation to
processing quality. This has involved developing new methods of protein fractionation, including
gel isoelectric focusing and its 2D combination with gel electrophoresis, leading into proteomic
mapping. Other diagnostic methods developed relate to the evaluation of grain quality in wheat
and barley, such as better methods for variety identification and for characterizing quality in starch
and sprouted grain (as co-patentee of the Rapid ViscoAnalyser). Research involvement has also
included elucidation of grain-quality variation due to environmental factors (heat stress, fertilizer
use, CO2 levels and storage conditions).
In 2009, Wrigley was appointed a Member of the Order of Australia (AM) ‘for service to primary
industry, particularly to grain science as a researcher, and to the development of methods for
improving wheat quality.’
He is currently an Honorary Professor at the University of Queensland, Brisbane, Australia.

Harold Corke is a professor in the Food and Nutritional Sciences program at The University of
Hong Kong, and a Chutian Scholar Distinguished Foreign Professor in the Glyn O. Phillips
Hydrocolloid Research Center at HUT, Hubei University of Technology, Wuhan, China. In more
than 22 years in Hong Kong, he has had responsibility for teaching a diverse array of food science
courses, including the major courses Grain Production and Utilization, Food Safety and Quality
Management, Food Product Development, and general education courses Feeding the World, and
Food: Technology, Trade and Culture. He is author or co-author of 180 refereed journal articles,
and his 22 PhD graduates have gone on to successful careers in academia and industry around the
world. He is on the editorial boards of Journal of Food Composition and Analysis, LWT Food Science and
Technology and Journal of Cereal Science, and with Colin Wrigley and Chuck Walker was one of the
editors of the first edition of Encyclopedia of Grain Science, published in 2004. Corke is active in
consulting in grain processing and food safety in Asia and Eastern Europe.

Jon Faubion is the Charles Singleton Professor of Baking and Cereal Science in the Department of
Grain Science, Kansas State University. Over his 35þ year career, he has had the sole or shared
responsibility for teaching nine different cereal or food science courses at Texas A&M University,
The University of Minnesota and Kansas State. In 2011, he received the Excellence in Teaching
Award from the American Association of Cereal Chemists International. He is a senior editor of
Cereal Chemistry, and a member of the Board of Directors of the American Association of Cereal
Chemists International and an executive editor of Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture. Prior
to rejoining the department faculty in 2005, he directed the Applied Technology and Sensory
Science Groups for the research and development arm of The Schwan Food Company.

xxiii
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EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

Jinsong Bao Bob French


Zhejiang University, Hangzhou, PR China Department of Agriculture and Food, Western Australia,
Merredin, WA, Australia
Frank Bekes
Director R&D FBFD Pty Ltd, Beecroft, NSW, Australia Robert Graybosch
Agricultural Research Service, USDA, Lincoln, NE, USA
Trust Beta
University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, MB, Canada Robert Henry
University of Queensland, Brisbane, QLD, Australia
Stanley Cauvain
BakeTran, Witney, United Kingdom; Curtin University, Barry V. McCleary
Perth, WA, Australia Megazyme International Ireland, Bray, Wicklow, Ireland
Robert Cracknell Lindsay O’Brien
Crackers Consulting, Mount Eliza, VIC, Australia University of Sydney, Narrabri, NSW, Australia
Yapeng Fang Paul Scott
Hubei University of Technology, Wuhan, PR China USDA-ARS Corn Insects and Crop Genetics Research
Unit, Ames, IA, USA
Jon Faubion
Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA John Reginald Nuttall Taylor
University of Pretoria, Pretoria, South Africa

xxv
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CONTRIBUTORS

E Akhunov BJ Blaney
Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA The University of Queensland, St Lucia, Australia
PC Annis JE Bock
CSIRO Entomology, Canberra, ACT, Australia University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada
GA Annor F Bonomi
University of Ghana, Accra, Ghana University of Milan, Milan, Italy
CA Atkins AR Bridges
The University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA, AACC International, St Paul, MN, USA
Australia
H Brinch-Pedersen
W Atwell Aarhus University, Slagelse, Denmark
Bill Atwell Consulting, Champlin, MN, USA
G Bultosa
M Båga Haramaya University, Dire Dawa, Ethiopia; Botswana
University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, SK, Canada College of Agriculture, Gaborone, Botswana
JS Bao W Bushuk
Zhejiang University, Hangzhou, PR China University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, MB, Canada
VJ Barthet YZ Cai
Canadian Grain Commission, Winnipeg, MB, Canada China National Seed Group, Beijing, PR China;
SA Barton Huazhong Agricultural University, Wuhan, PR China;
Oxford Agricultural Trials Ltd, Oxford, UK The University of Hong Kong, Hong Kong, PR China;
Hubei University of Technology, Wuhan, PR China
IL Batey
Sunset Cereal Services, Meadowbank, NSW, Australia EF Caldwell
AACC International, Roseville, MN, USA
F Békés
FBFD PTY LTD, Beecroft, NSW, Australia KJ Carpenter
University of California, Berkeley, CA, USA
AR Belcher
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA JC Catullo
INTA, Buenos Aires, Argentina
JN BeMiller
Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN, USA SP Cauvain
BakeTran, Witney, OX, UK
T Beta
University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada S Ceccarelli
Via delle Begonie 2, Ascoli Piceno, Italy
JL Black
John L Black Consulting, Warrimoo, NSW, Australia GK Chandi
University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada
MH Blanco
(Retired) Plant Breeder and Geneticist, Encinitas, N Chaudhary
CA, USA G. J. University of Science and Technology, Hisar, India

xxvii
xxviii Contributors

RN Chibbar JE Dexter
University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, SK, Canada Canadian Grain Commission, Winnipeg, MB, Canada
M Chisi B Dobraszczyk
Golden Valley Research Station, Chisamba, Zambia Reading Science Centre, Reading, UK
S Cloutier D Domingues
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, Ottawa, ON, General Mills Inc., Minneapolis, MN, USA
Canada
C Dowd
LS Collado General Mills Inc., Minneapolis, MN, USA
The University of the Philippines Los Banos, Laguna,
LM Duizer
Philippines
University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada
NC Collins
RW Duncan
School of Agriculture Food and Wine, The University of
University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Adelaide, Glen Osmond, SA, Australia
KG Duodu
H Corke
University of Pretoria, Pretoria, South Africa
The University of Hong Kong, Hong Kong, Pokfulam,
PR China; Hubei University of Technology, Wuhan, SR Eckhoff
PR China (Retired) University of Illinois, Urbana, IL, USA
RL Cracknell M Edney
Crackers Consulting, Mount Eliza, VIC, Australia Canadian Grain Commission, Winnipeg, MB, Canada
GB Crosbie M Emery
Crosbie Grain Quality Consulting, East Fremantle, WA, Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA
Australia
W Erskine
JS Croser University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA, Australia
University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA, Australia
WD Eustace
A Cruickshank (Retired) Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA
DAFF Queensland, Warwick, QLD, Australia
A Evans
A Cuesta-Marcos Tate and Lyle, Hoffman Estates, IL, USA
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA
E Evans
MG D’Egidio The Tassie Beer Dr, Lindisfarne, TAS, Australia
Unità di ricerca per la Valorizzazione Qualitativa dei
JD Faris
Cereali, Rome, Italy
USDA-ARS Cereal Crops Research Unit, Fargo, ND,
D Dan Ramdath USA
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, Guelph, ON, Canada
J Faubion
P Dangi Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA
G. J. University of Science and Technology, Hisar, India
AM Fehily
JK Daun Tinuviel Software, Warrington, UK
(Deceased)
T Filichkin
C David Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA
ISARA Lyon, Lyon, France
GB Fincher
L Day Australian Research Council Centre of Excellence in Plant
AgResearch Ltd., Palmerston North, New Zealand Cell Walls, University of Adelaide, Glen Osmond, SA,
Australia
D Deneke
South Dakota State University, Brookings, SD, USA SP Fisk
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA
R DePauw
Agriculture and AgriFood Canada, Swift Current, SK, MT Fletcher
Canada The University of Queensland, St Lucia, Australia
Contributors xxix

RJ Fletcher A Gunaratne
University of Queensland, Gatton, QLD, Australia The University of Hong Kong, Hong Kong, PR China
F Fleurat-Lessard YN Guragain
INRA, Mycology and Food Safety Research Unit, Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA
Villenave d’Ornon, France
RCE Guy
JA Fox Campden and Chorleywood Food Research Association,
Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA Chipping Campden, UK
RJ French C Hall III
The University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA, North Dakota State University, Fargo, ND, USA
Australia
LM Hall
B Friebe University of Alberta, Edmonton, AB, Canada
Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA
EG Hammond
BJ Furman Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA
San Jose State University, San Jose, CA, USA
R Haraszi
M Gangola Campden BRI, Gloucestershire, UK
University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, SK, Canada
J Harnack
P Gélinas University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, MN, USA
Food Research and Development Centre, Agriculture and
D Hauge
Agri-Food Canada, Saint-Hyacinthe, QC, Canada
Grains for Health Foundation, St. Louis Park, MN, USA
SM Ghazani
AMR Hayes
University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada
St. Catherine University, Lafayette, MN, USA
MC Gianibelli
PM Hayes
(Retired)
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA
A Gianinetti
L Helgerson
Consiglio per la ricerca in agricoltura e l’analisi
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA
dell’economia agraria, CRA-GPG, Fiorenzuola d’Arda,
Italy RJ Henry
University of Queensland, Brisbane, QLD, Australia
BS Gill
Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA D Herb
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA
JS Godber
LSU Agricultural Center, Baton Rouge, LA, USA I Herencia
Universidad Politecnica de Madrid, Madrid, Spain
A Goldstein
University of Minnesota, St. Paul, MN, USA E Hernandez
Texas A&M University, College Station, TX, USA
R Graebner
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA KB Hobson
New South Wales Department of Primary Industries,
S Graham-Acquaah
Tamworth, NSW, Australia
Africa Rice Center, Cotonou, Republic of Benin
M Hochhalter
RA Graybosch
North Dakota State University, Fargo, ND, USA
USDA-ARS, University of Nebraska Lincoln, Lincoln,
NE, USA RD Horsley
North Dakota State University, Fargo, ND, USA
S Grundas
Bohdan Dobrzanski Institute of Agrophysics of the Polish W Huang
Academy of Sciences, Lublin, Poland Jiangsu Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Nanjing,
PR China; Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu, PR China
TJ Gulya
USDA-ARS, Northern Crop Science Laboratory, Fargo, Y Huang
ND, USA China Agricultural University, Beijing, PR China
xxx Contributors

V Humphrey-Taylor P Koehler
(Retired) New Zealand Institute for Crop Food Research Deutsche Forschungsanstalt für Lebensmittelchemie,
Limited, Christchurch, New Zealand Leibniz Institut, Freising, Germany
T Hymowitz R Korczak
University of Illinois at Champaign-Urbana, Urbana, University of Minnesota, St. Paul, MN, USA
IL, USA
SG Krattinger
S Iametti University of Zurich, Zurich, Switzerland
University of Milan, Milan, Italy
L Krishnamurthy
C Isaak International Crops Research Institute for the Semi-Arid
University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, MB, Canada Tropics, Patancheru, Andhra Pradesh, India
MS Izydorczyk S Kumar
Canadian Grain Commission, Winnipeg, MB, Canada International Center for Agricultural Research in the Dry
Areas (ICARDA), Rabat, Morocco
P Jacques
Tufts University, Boston, MA, USA OR Larroque
CSIRO Agriculture Flagship, Canberra, Australia
S Jaiswal
University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, SK, Canada JW Lawton
J Jane (Retired) ARS-USDA
Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA EA Lee
LA Johnson University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada
Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA EC Leonard
JM Jones AgriKnowHow, Maitland, SA, Australia
St. Catherine University, Arden Hills, MN, USA JS Li
A Juhász China Agricultural University, Beijing, PR China
Centre for Agricultural Research of the Hungarian WD Li
Academy of Sciences, Martonvásár, Hungary Shanxi University, Taiyuan, PR China
BO Juliano Z Li
Philippine Rice Research Institute Los Baños, Laguna, CSIRO Food Futures National Research Flagship,
Philippines Canberra, ACT, Australia; CSIRO Plant Industry,
RS Kadan Canberra, ACT, Australia
(Deceased)
R Lindberg
GP Kadkol Minneapolis Heart Institute Foundation, Minneapolis,
NSW Department of Primary Industries, Calala, NSW, MN, USA
Australia
MG Lindhauer
LW Kannenberg Max Rubner-Institut (MRI), Detmold, Germany
University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada
K Liu
TN Khan Agricultural Research Service, US Department of
University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA, Australia Agriculture, Aberdeen, ID, USA

BS Khatkar Q Liu
G. J. University of Science and Technology, Hisar, India Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, Guelph, ON, Canada

JG Kling S Lu
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA National Chung Hsing University, Taichung, Taiwan
EJ Knights OM Lukow
New South Wales Department of Primary Industries, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, Winnipeg, MB,
Tamworth, NSW, Australia Canada
Contributors xxxi

BL Ma NJ Mendham
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, Ottawa, ON, University of Tasmania, Hobart, TAS, Australia
Canada
R Menon
C-Y Ma The General Mills Bell Institute of Health and Nutrition,
The University of Hong Kong, Hong Kong, PR China Minneapolis, MN, USA
A MacLeod TE Michaels
Canadian Grain Commission, Winnipeg, MB, Canada University of Minnesota, St. Paul, MN, USA
L MacLeod DM Miskelly
Dairy Innovation Australia, Werribee, VIC, Australia Westcott Consultants P/L, Goulburn, NSW, Australia
CK Madsen
CS Moffat
Aarhus University, Slagelse, Denmark
Curtin University, Bentley, WA, Australia
RJ Mailer
ES Monyo
Australian Oils Research, Lambton, NSW, Australia
ICRISAT, Nairobi, Kenya
JT Manful
Africa Rice Center, Cotonou, Republic of Benin TR Moore
AIB International, Manhattan, KS, USA
AG Marangoni
University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada MK Morell
International Rice Research Institute, Los Baños,
DJ Mares Philippines
University of Adelaide, Glen Osmond, SA, Australia
CF Morris
L Marquart USDA-ARS Western Wheat Quality Laboratory,
University of Minnesota, St. Paul, MN, USA; Grains for Pullman, WA, USA
Health Foundation, St. Louis Park, MN, USA
LA Morrison
A Marti
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA
Università degli Studi di Milano, Milan, Italy
B Maschoff WK Mousa
Grains for Health Foundation, St. Louis Park, MN, USA University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada; Mansoura
University, Mansoura, Egypt
A Mathiowetz
University of Minnesota, St. Paul, MN, USA; Rochester, K Mrva
MN, USA University of Adelaide, Glen Osmond, SA, Australia

JJ Mayko L Munck
Canola Council of Canada, Mundare, AB, Canada University of Copenhagen, Frederiksberg C, Denmark
CM McDonough R Munns
Texas A&M University, College Station, TX, USA CSIRO Agriculture, Canberra, ACT, Australia; The
University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA, Australia
RA McIntosh
The University of Sydney, Cobbitty, NSW, Australia PA Murphy
Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA
JD McKeehen
Cereal Partners Worldwide, Minneapolis, MN, USA ED Nafziger
J McLean University of Illinois, Urbana, IL, USA
The University of Newcastle, Callaghan, NSW, Australia SC Nelson
PBE McVetty AACC International (AACCI), St. Paul, MN, USA
University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, MB, Canada T Nleya
B Meints South Dakota State University, Brookings, SD, USA
Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA
L O’Brien
A Meldrum The University of Sydney, Narrabri, NSW, Australia;
Pulse Australia, Perth, WA, Australia Solheimar Pty Ltd, Narrabri, NSW, Australia
xxxii Contributors

DK O’Toole I Rajcan
City University of Hong Kong, Hong Kong, PR China University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada
EA Oelke L Ramsden
University of Minnesota, St. Paul, MN, USA University of Hong Kong, Hong Kong, PR China
RP Oliver KD Rausch
Curtin University, Bentley, WA, Australia University of Illinois at Urbana–Champaign, Urbana, IL,
USA
DE Ortiz
W. K. Kellogg Institute, Battle Creek, MI, USA A Regina
MA Pagani CSIRO Food Futures National Research Flagship,
Università degli Studi di Milano, Milan, Italy Canberra, ACT, Australia; CSIRO Plant Industry,
Canberra, ACT, Australia
TS Palav
Rich Products Corporation, Buffalo, NY, USA MN Riaz
Texas A&M University, College Station, TX, USA
L Pallas
Yanco Agricultural Institute, Yanco, NSW, Australia D Richard-Molard
(Retired) INRA, Nantes, France
GH Palmer
Heriot-Watt University, Edinburgh, UK F Rizza
Consiglio per la ricerca in agricoltura e l’analisi
RG Palmer dell’economia agraria, CRA-GPG, Fiorenzuola d’Arda,
Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA Italy
RF Park MJ Robertson
The University of Sydney, Narellan, NSW, Australia CSIRO Sustainable Ecosystems, St. Lucia, QLD,
GM Paulsen Australia
Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA LW Rooney
LC Paulson Texas A&M University, College Station, TX, USA
The Bama Companies, Tulsa, OK, USA WL Rooney
DS Petterson Texas A&M University, College Station, TX, USA
Department of Agriculture, Nedlands, WA, Australia CM Rosell
RA Porter Institute of Agrochemistry and Food Technology (IATA-
University of Minnesota-NCROC, Grand Rapids, CSIC), Paterna, Valencia, Spain
MN, USA AS Ross
L Privalle Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, USA
Bayer CropScience, Research Triangle Park, Durham, SJ Roy
NC, USA School of Agriculture Food and Wine, The University of
KV Probst Adelaide, Glen Osmond, SA, Australia
Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA; Grain HD Sapirstein
Processing Corporation, Muscatine, IA, USA University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, MB, Canada
KJ Quail AK Sarkar
Grain Growers Limited, North Ryde, NSW, Australia Canadian International Grains Institute, Winnipeg, MB,
RCN Rachaputi Canada
University of Queensland, Kingaroy, QLD, Australia
A Sarker
H Rahman International Center for Agricultural Research in the Dry
University of Alberta, Edmonton, AB, Canada Areas (ICARDA), New Delhi, India
S Rahman SK Sathe
Monash University Malaysia, Bandar Sunway, Malaysia Florida State University, Tallahassee, FL, USA
MN Raizada SF Schakel
University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, MN, USA
Contributors xxxiii

KA Scherf VA Solah
Deutsche Forschungsanstalt für Lebensmittelchemie, Curtin University, Perth, WA, Australia
Leibniz Institut, Freising, Germany
AM Stanca
MP Scott University of Modena and Reggio Emilia, Reggio Emilia,
Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA Italy
K Seetharaman FL Stoddard
(Deceased) University of Helsinki, Helsinki, Finland
GJ Seiler K-C Tan
USDA-ARS, Northern Crop Science Laboratory, Fargo, Curtin University, Bentley, WA, Australia
ND, USA
AS Tatham
SO Serna-Saldivar Cardiff Metropolitan University, Cardiff, UK
Centro de Biotecnologı´a FEMSA, Escuela de Ingenierı´a y
JRN Taylor
Ciencias, Monterrey, Mexico
University of Pretoria, Hatfield, South Africa
S Shea Miller
V Terzi
Eastern Cereals and Oilseeds Research Centre,
Consiglio per la ricerca in agricoltura e l’analisi
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, Ottawa, ON,
dell’economia agraria, CRA-GPG, Fiorenzuola d’Arda,
Canada
Italy
DB Sheats
K Tiefenbacher
St. Catherine University, St. Paul, MN, USA
(Retired)
PR Shewry
VK Tiwari
Rothamsted Research, Harpenden, UK; University of
Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA
Reading, Reading, UK
SM Tosh
RD Shillito
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, Guelph, ON, Canada
Bayer CropScience, Durham, NC, USA
P Tosi
JP Shroyer
University of Reading, Reading, UK
Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA
LC Trugo
KJ Shroyer
Federal University of Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA
SE Ulrich
Qingyao Shu
Washington State University, Pullman, WA, USA
Zhejiang University, Hangzhou, PR China
EH Unger
KHM Siddique
Eagle Rock Solutions, Inc., Idaho Falls, ID, USA
University of Western Australia, Crawley, WA, Australia
PV Vadlani
J Singla
Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA
University of Zurich, Zurich, Switzerland
SA Valencia-Chamorro
M Sissons
Escuela Politécnica Nacional, Quito, Ecuador
NSW Department of Primary Industries, Calala, NSW,
Australia; Tamworth Agricultural Institute, Tamworth, V Vamadevan
NSW, Australia University of Minnesota, St. Paul, MN, USA; Agriculture
and Agri-Food Canada, Guelph, ON, Canada
JH Skerritt
University of Queensland, St Lucia, QLD, Australia N Van Heel
University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, MN, USA
DJ Skylas
Grain Growers Limited, North Ryde, NSW, A Vandenberg
Australia University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, SK, Canada
DL Smith SK Vasal
McGill University, Ste-Anne-de-Bellevue, QC, Canada BISA, Punjab, India
xxxiv Contributors

R Velicogna BJB Wood


Archer Daniels Midland, Montreal, QC, Canada Strathclyde University, Glasgow, UK
D von Baer G Wright
Seeds Baer, Temuco, Chile Peanut Company of Australia, Kingaroy, QLD, Australia

E von Baer CW Wrigley


CAMPEX Semillas Baer, Temuco, Chile Honorary Professor, QAAFI; The University of
Queensland, Brisbane, QLD, Australia
CE Walker
(Deceased) Dianxing Wu
Zhejiang University, Hangzhou, PR China
SB Walker
HX Wu
University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada
Wuhan Chortle Biotechnology Company Limited,
FL Walley Wuhan, PR China
University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, SK, Canada J Wyatt
D Wang NIAB, Cambridge, UK
Huazhong Agricultural University, Wuhan, PR China Y Yan
T Wang Huazhong University of Science and Technology, Wuhan,
Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA PR China
H Yangcheng
RD Waniska
Iowa State University, Ames, IA, USA
Texas A&M University, College Station, TX, USA
V Zevallos
LL Ward Johannes Gutenberg Mainz, Mainz, Germany; University
Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA Medical Center, Mainz, Germany
H Wieser XM Zhou
Deutsche Forschungsanstalt für Lebensmittelchemie, McGill University, Ste-Anne-de-Bellevue, QC, Canada
Leibniz Institut, Freising, Germany
PK Zwer
RM Williams South Australian Research and Development Institute
CBH Group, West Perth, WA, Australia (SARDI), Urrbrae, SA, Australia
PM Williamson S Zydenbos
(Retired) Leslie Research Centre, Toowoomba, QLD, (Retired) New Zealand Institute for Crop Food Research
Australia; CBH Group, West Perth, WA, Australia Limited, Christchurch, New Zealand
THE WORLD OF FOOD GRAINS
The Basics

Contents
The Grains that Feed the World
Course Structures: Based on EFG Articles
The Grain Crops: An Overview
The Grain Chain: The Route from Genes to Grain-Based Products
Taxonomic Classification of Grain Species
Grain: Morphology of Internal Structure
Grain and Plant Morphology of Cereals and how characters can be used to identify varieties

The Grains that Feed the World


CW Wrigley, University of Queensland, Brisbane, QLD, Australia
H Corke, University of Hong Kong, Hong Kong, Pokfulam, China
J Faubion, Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA
ã 2016 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Topic Highlights Introduction

• Grains are the source of half of our food and protein Grains are responsible directly or indirectly for most of the
consumption. food we eat. The big three cereal grains (rice, wheat, and
• Current world production for all grains equals 1 kg per maize) have roles as staple foods (major daily sources of
person per day. carbohydrate-based energy) and for processing into animal
• Grains also contribute to the wider range of foods via feeds and other diverse uses such as fuel bioethanol. There
animals. has been an explosive growth in meat consumption globally,
• Major media claims about grains and health are presented as more and more people come out of poverty and enter into a
in this article. growing middle class. This is most apparent in China, where
• Some myths about grain-based foods are busted. demand for meat and other animal products (eggs and milk)
• Some claims are supported, at least in part. drives the production of maize domestically and production of
soy beans in major exporting countries (the United States,
Argentina, and Brazil).
A billion people worldwide are obese; a third of the food
Learning Objectives produced in industrialized countries is thrown away uneaten.
In this exuberant excess of food production lie many serious
• To understand the significance of grains in feeding the problems – a billion people worldwide are chronically mal-
growing human population nourished, food production competes with industry and
• To adopt a critical attitude to production and nutritional domestic usage for scarce resources of energy and water,
information about grains presented in the media and to human populations continue to increase, and food production
know how to seek and research authentic information impacts on the environment in ways that may not be sustain-
• To be motivated to pursue further topics in depth, starting able. People care about what they eat, about their health, about
with investigating relevant articles in the Encyclopedia of longevity, and about fitness.
Food Grains and going back where necessary to primary In the news media, nutrition sells; there is thus a constant
scientific research articles. output of information on topics such as gluten-free diets,

Encyclopedia of Food Grains, Second Edition http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-394437-5.00003-6 1


2 THE BASICS | The Grains that Feed the World

obesity, genetically modified organisms (GMOs), and organic


agriculture. Unfortunately, much of the popular media report-
ing on grains and health is wrong, sometimes the result of
journalistic carelessness or ignorance, sometimes from
demand for an ideological spin on knowledge, and sometimes
out of a crass calculation that hysteria sells better than truth.
This encyclopedia sets out to redress the balance and rectify
these popular misconceptions. What do you expect from an
encyclopedia? Obviously, everything you want to know about
the general topic. Just as importantly, you expect correct infor-
mation, provided by world-recognized authorities, knowing
that all facts have been checked. These expectations are fulfilled
in this encyclopedia, in its four print volumes, in its hundreds
of articles, in its broad-ranging website, and in its extension as
part of Elsevier’s Food Science Reference Module, as a general
source of advice to the food industry worldwide.
Often, the expectation of an encyclopedia is to check
whether what-I-have-heard is actually so. This introductory
article explores some of those what-I-have-heard sayings, listed
in groups of dot points, with commentary, plus referral to
relevant encyclopedia articles. The authors of the encyclopedia
articles are recognized as world authorities in their respective
fields. The articles have all undergone peer review by members
of the editorial advisory board and the editors, thereby ensur-
ing that the information is correct and free from the many
myths, misconceptions, and misinformation that have been
spread by nefarious advertising and unbridled websites.

Grains and Our Future

• Climate change will lead to less grain production. Not


necessarily!
• We have become so dependent upon eating cereal grains
(grass seeds) that it has prompted at least one author to say
that we have become ‘canaries.’ Yes, we are dependent on
grains, but ‘canaries,’ no! Figure 1 Norman Borlaug was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in
• ‘Cereal grains literally stand between humankind and 1970 for his work to end world hunger by creating new strains
of drought-resistant wheat. This statue was placed in the US Capitol
starvation.’ Maybe.
Building’s National Statuary Hall in 2014 to celebrate the 100th
• Humankind will run out of food in the foreseeable future.
anniversary of Borlaug’s birth.
Probably not.
– What ultimately is the source of our food? How vulnerable
This dependence is inevitable, given our vast population and
are we?
the contribution of grains to food and feed production. Grains
provide over half our protein and energy needs. But it is hardly
Our Dependence on Grains as Food
justified to claim that, as a result, we have become ‘canaries.’
The 1960s were a time of great pessimism about the future of A recurring theme of this encyclopedia is the great diversity of
humanity and the possibility of massive famines due to popu- ways in which we prepare grains in our diet – not only as ‘our
lation increases, especially in Asia and Africa, and the failure of daily bread’ (Bible, Matthew 4:4) and not only as the staple
national agricultural to produce enough to feed these growing food of boiled rice. A complete volume is devoted to the great
populations. The Green Revolution was spearheaded by the diversity of grain-based products and their processing.
research of Dr. Norman Borlaug (Figure 1) on dwarf wheat at
CIMMYT in Mexico and was complemented by similar work
What Ultimately Is the Source of Our Food on Earth?
on dwarf rice at International Rice Research Institute in the
Philippines. These advances led to rapid increases in grain This question was addressed in 1648 by a Belgian scientist, Jan
production. India went from being a chronic major importer Baptist van Helmont, with respect to plants in general. He
of wheat to avert famine to being a significant exporter of grain. planted a tree in a pot of soil. He first weighed the soil (after
The relative abundance in grain production today, the drying it) and also the small tree. For 5 years, he added water
power of biotechnology, and the excesses in consumption we only to the pot. He then weighed the remaining soil and the
often see around us (wastage of food and increasing meat tree, which had grown considerably. There was negligible
consumption) may make us forget how tenuous is our ability weight loss from the soil, so he concluded that all the weight
to produce the grains we need year after year. Humankind gain of the tree had come from the water that he added: thus,
has certainly become dependent upon eating cereal grains. wood is made from water! (Figure 2).
THE BASICS | The Grains that Feed the World 3

Today, we know that Jan did not control two important the wide range of elements described later in this article, espe-
factors: the sun and the air (CO2), which together produce all cially nitrogen for protein synthesis. When grain is harvested,
plant life via photosynthesis according to the following reactions: these elements are removed from the field, and they must
ultimately be replaced by some form of fertilizer.
CO2 þ H2 O þ light ! O2 þ glucose ða simple sugarÞ
However, the other essentials – sunlight, CO2, and water – are
Glucose ! carbohydrates, lignin, and cellulose readily available for free on an ongoing basis. Of course, that
ðplant componentsÞ might not be claimed for water in many dry climates. The free
claim can certainly be made for CO2 given the rising levels of
Jan Baptist lived in an age of the Aristotelian belief in four this component of our atmosphere. In fact, the sequestration of
elements: water, earth, air, and fire. Even considering these CO2 by plants is one of the many solutions for mitigating the
elements, he took into account the first two, but neglected air rising levels of CO2. There needs to be a realization of the
(CO2) and fire (sunlight). essential nature of CO2 as the source of all plant life and thus
Thus, all our food comes from these sources – sunlight, of all our food, thereby to reverse the bad press attributed to CO2.
CO2, and water – either directly in the cases of grains,
vegetables, and fruit or indirectly in the cases of animals who
eat the grain and plants. In addition, the soil does contribute Will We Run Out of Food in the Foreseeable Future?
Our reliance on the grains of cereal plants (especially wheat,
rice, and corn) is so great that they supply nearly 60% of our
In 1648, a scientist food energy and 50% of the protein consumed on Earth. Thus,
provided water only grains really do ‘stand between us and starvation.’ Grains offer
to a small tree the great advantages that they can be stored safely for long
... for 5 years periods and thus transported far from their growth sites. Grains
are adaptable with respect to the wide range of foods made
from them. Grains are also important as animal food and for
Thus, he concluded various forms of industrial processing.
that trees are made from But will we run out of food in the foreseeable future? Efforts
water! He neglected the continue to improve methods of breeding, agronomy, harve-
roles of light and CO2 sting, and processing, showing good signs that grain produc-
tion and quality will continue to increase, providing for a
world of hungry people. The production and yield of wheat
have tripled in the past 40 years, as explained in the Wheat
Overview article (The Cereal Grains: Wheat: An Overview of
Figure 2 The experiment of Belgian scientist, Jan Baptist van Helmont, the Grain That Provides ‘Our Daily Bread’). Furthermore,
seeking to determine what plants are made from. Figure 3 shows how there is an ongoing increase in the

Cereal production, utilization and stocks

Million tonnes Million tonnes


2600 800

2400 600

2200 400

2000 200

1800 0
2004/05 2006/07 2008/09 2010/11 2012/13 2014/15
f’cast

Production (left axis) Utilization (left axis)

Stocks (right axis)

Figure 3 The past decade of production and utilization of cereal grains. Source: FAOSTAT.
4 THE BASICS | The Grains that Feed the World

Earth’s atmospheric CO2 concentration and temperature


14.5
390

370 14.3

350
14.1
ppm 330
CO2 °C
310 CO2 °C 13.9

290
13.7
270

250 13.5
1000 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000
Year
Figure 4 Increasing temperatures and levels of carbon dioxide promise increasing grain yields due to the carbon-fertilizer effect.

worldwide production of cereal grains, also including maize, stresses of over 35  C during grain filling. However, there are
rice, barley, and other grass-related grains. The future therefore indications that some wheat genotypes are available that
looks hopeful. provide stable grain quality despite such heat-stress condi-
However, we still have great inequalities in food supply in tions, thereby opening up promising research directions. So,
terms of grains. Although current world production for all considerable research effort is concentrated on breeding for
grains is equivalent to 1 kg per person per day, there is still changed growth conditions (see articles Agronomy of Grain
hunger because some of this great volume of grain serves alter- Growing: Implication of Climate Changes; Sustainable Grain
native important nonfood purposes, such as animal feed and Production and Utilization; Wheat: Biotrophic Pathogen Resis-
industrial uses. The greatest problem, however, is that the major tance; Genetics of Grains: Abiotic Stress Genes and Mecha-
sites of production are distant from the major sites of need, and nisms in Wheat; The Cereal Grains: An Overview of the Family
those in need lack the resources to access the excess grain. of Cereal Grains Prominent in World Agriculture).
Increasing levels of carbon dioxide (Figure 4) offer the
promise of increasing grain yields, but with growth conditions
changing, breeders and agronomists need to focus research on Growing Our Grains
adapting to a changing world scene.
• Organic-grown grain is superior nutritionally to other
grain. Wrong!
Climate Change and the Future of Grain Production
• GMO grain is hazardous to your health. Wrong!
Predictions of global climate change include increased levels of
carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, causing warmer tempera-
Organic Growing
tures (especially the daily minima), changed patterns of rain-
fall, and increased frequency and severity of heat-stress Organic is an adjective used with the whole range of foods and
episodes, together with decreased frost frequency and rising even fibers. The term is associated with a higher price and
sea levels. These trends imply a future of fluctuations in grain presumed higher value. It should also indicate products of
yield and quality, but overall increases in grain yield are pre- such quality and composition as are expected from growing
dicted. Rising sea levels have serious implications for many these products in the absence of chemicals, instead using nat-
low-lying rice-growing areas in Asia. ural means of farm management. Are organically grown grains,
Irrespective of arguments about causes, increases in atmo- for example, any different nutritionally from other sources of
spheric levels in carbon dioxide have been clearly demon- grain? The answer is generally no. Organic grain will look the
strated, rising from ancient levels of 150–280 to 400 ppm same as conventionally grown grain and will not likely to have
and beyond, with a predicted doubling in a century or so. more favorable nutritional content.
One consequence is the provision of carbon fertilizer, leading Organic grain is likely to have a protein content similar to
in the future to more efficient biomass production and greater that of other grains grown under similar conditions. With
yields for many grain species. However, the yield increases may respect to chemicals, the levels of pesticides and herbicides of
be largely in carbohydrate, potentially leaving reduced grain- organic grain may be less than those for conventionally grown
protein levels. The fertilizing effects of carbon dioxide are grain, but the latter are still required to have such compounds
more significant at higher temperatures, the other major effect at levels below the minimum residue levels. A report by the UK
predicted to accompany the global climate challenge. For Crop Protection Association found “lower levels of pesticide
wheat, the increases in temperature are also expected to affect residues in organic produce when compared to conventional”
potential dough-forming properties. Temperatures in the range but “these differences are relatively small, for example, a typical
15–30  C during grain filling have been shown to provide residue of 0.1 mg/kg is equivalent to a fly on a ten-ton truck.”
optimal dough strength, but grain with weaker dough quality The encyclopedia’s article on organic grain points out that
is produced when plants are subjected to a few days of heat the great advantage of organic farming is the benefit to land
THE BASICS | The Grains that Feed the World 5

use and the environment (see articles Agronomy of Grain Grow- on the actual composition of GM food and the actual effects
ing: Organic Grain Production and Food Processing; Sustainable of GM plant and animal agricultural practices (see articles
Grain Production and Utilization; Food Grains and the Con- Food Grains and the Consumer: Genetically Modified Grains
sumer: Labelling of Grain-Based Foods). and the Consumer; Genetics of Grains: Detection of Geneti-
cally Modified Grains; Development of Genetically Modified
Grains; The Cereal Grains: Maize: Overview; The Oilseeds:
Genetically Modified Organisms Cottonseed: Overview; Canola: Overview; Soybean:
It is well over a century since grain scientists commenced the Overview).
now usual practice of cross pollination to combine the benefits of
one parental line with those of another. Previously, plant
improvements had involved the selection of promising plants Grains, Our Health, and the Media
(by appearance) from the common mix of plants in the field.
Cross pollination greatly extended the genetic variability of popu- What can we believe? We all know that the French queen Marie
lations from which to select promising new genotypes for use in Antoinette (Figure 5) famously declared “Let them eat cake”
developing new improved varieties. However, this approach to when she was told that her starving subjects were clamoring for
plant breeding is limited because cross pollination is generally bread. Wrong!
restricted to plants of the same genus, perhaps even the same The saying is stuck in historical tradition because it has been
species. Thus, for example, it is not possible to source genetic a convenient précis of the aristocratic arrogance of the times
resistance to a disease from beyond the target grain species. preceding the French revolution (1789–99). However, the line
In recent decades, this limitation has been removed by the about eating cake was actually written in the mid-1760s when
introduction of genetic engineering techniques, permitting not Marie Antoinette was a young girl living in Austria. It appears in
only very precise inter-genus transfer of genes but also the target- a work entitled Confessions written by Jean-Jacques Rousseau.
ing of single genes or groups of genes for transfer from unrelated Furthermore, much has been lost in translation. The word
genera (which could, e.g., be as distant as a fish and a different ‘cake’ is a mistranslation of the French brioche that is a pastry
plant). The improved plant or animal that carries functional with tender crumb made with generous inclusion of egg and
genes from an unrelated genus (a gene transfer that could not butter, hardly like our general concept of ‘cake.’ The linkage to
happen in nature) is termed genetically modified (GM). Many Marie Antoinette has been attributed to Jean-Baptiste Alphonse
improved grain genotypes have been introduced into agricul- Karr (1808–90), who wrote it 50 years after her death.
tural production on a very large scale. Such improvements may How does it happen that society accepts the authenticity of
include not only agronomic and disease benefits but also a phrase or story even though it is just plain wrong? The ‘Let
improvements in nutritional value. The major crops involved them eat cake’ story may be no more than a trivial error of
for large-scale production are maize, soybean, canola, and cot- history. More important are the multitude of other errors and
ton. In the case of GMO cotton especially, there has been great misconceptions in the public mind. To the extent that this
environmental benefit of reduced use of insecticides. There are misinformation affects our way of life and our personal well
GMO variations of many other grain crops, such as golden rice,
GM to contain beta-carotene, a source of vitamin A.
There has been political/philosophical/activist and con-
sumer resistance to the benefits offered by GMO technology,
such that the range of GMO grains has been restricted and the
potential benefits have not yet become available. For example,
there is thus no widespread cultivation of GMO wheat, barley,
or rice. Much of the scientific evidence presented on the poten-
tial harm of GM foods is simply spurious, generated with
disregard to normal experimental practices, and with results
predetermined by a bias on the part of the authors. In conse-
quence of consumer resistance, the spread of GMO grains has
been restricted to some countries and regions – mainly to the
Americas. In Argentina, for example, many farmers grow two
crops a year – wheat and GMO soy. As the soy is herbicide-
resistant, weeds are eliminated during the soy-growth phase,
and the subsequent wheat crop is harvested free of weed seeds.
Much of Europe and Africa has been far more circumspect
about permitting introduction of GM grains. There is a valid
and essential ongoing public debate to be made about the
ownership or intellectual property basis of genetic resources
that underpin GMO production. There is valid unease about
the potentially excess control that a few biotechnology compa-
nies may exert on world agriculture. There are also arguments
to be made about the environmental impacts – both positive
and negative – of all forms of agriculture, including that
involving GM plants and animals. But these arguments should Figure 5 The peasants of France were starving for lack of bread. Marie
be made on the basis of accurate and apolitical information Antoinette responded: “No bread? Then let them eat cake.” Did she?
6 THE BASICS | The Grains that Feed the World

being, there is a serious need for authentic information to be


offered and adopted.
There may be no combination of issues where this need is
more apparent than in the matter of nutrition, our diet being
closely allied to our health, quality of life, and our death, thus
prompting sayings such as the following:

• What we eat today walks and talks tomorrow.


• Digging our graves with our teeth.
• We are what we eat.
• Mens sana in corpore sano (a healthy mind in a healthy
body).

Figure 6 This type of corn dolly is not made from corn (maize); they are
usually made from the stalks and heads of wheat, rye, triticale, and
The Encyclopedia of Food Grains: A Source of barley. This apparent misnomer arises from the use of corn to signify any
Authentic Information grain species; this connotation is still prevalent in parts of Britain,
whereas corn is used in North America to signify maize.
This encyclopedia offers authentic information about all
aspects of food grains as they relate to us – and about all • At least we know that milk and coffee are gluten-free. Not
sorts of grains: chickpeas, rice, maize, barley, quinoa, soya, necessarily.
plus buckwheat, and the real wheat (the last two grains are • Corn dollies are made from corn (maize). No, not usually!
unrelated!). The encyclopedia’s coverage takes us through the (See Figure 6.)
various stages of the breeding of grains, their growth, produc- • There are dietary imbalances in the cereal grains. Partly true!
tion, processing, and the retailing of the wide range of grain- • Spinach is the best source of iron in our diet; we know that
based foods. All these issues impact us as consumers, situated because we grew up with Popeye the Sailor Man who ate all
as we are at the culmination of the ‘grain chain’ (see article The his spinach. Wrong!
Basics: The Grain Chain: The Route from Genes to Grain-Based • Wild flax growing in New Zealand differs from cultivated
Products). Veracity for the articles is assured due to authorship flax. Correct! (See Figure 7.)
by world authorities, followed by peer review by members of • Organic-grown grain is superior nutritionally to other
the editorial advisory board, the editors, and external experts. grain. Wrong!
• GMO grain is hazardous to your health. Wrong!

Authentic information is needed on the aforementioned topics


Some Popular Mythconceptions About Food Grains and on many more. Ask a question about grains and seek an
authentic answer via the hypertext features or the conventional
In this opening article, we examine and correct some of the
index of this encyclopedia. The assurance of authenticity of this
myths and misconceptions (mythconceptions) about grain-
encyclopedia is that world authorities have been sought to
related nutrition and grain production. These errors appear in
write every chapter, and subsequently, all articles have been
popular books and on questionable websites and inferred in
peer-reviewed. None of those involved have any commercial
advertising, in general gossip, and in popular concepts. Beyond
interest in the topic about which they have written. Those
this article, more mythconceptions are addressed in detail
assurances cannot be made for the authors of many popular
throughout the encyclopedia. How about the following ideas?
books, magazine articles, or websites.
• Bread makes you fat. Wrong!
• The fat you eat goes straight to your hips. Wrong!
• Eat fat-free products and you won’t get fat. Wrong! What Do Our Bodies Need and How Much?
• Trans fats, produced in fats from oilseeds, are bad for you.
Maybe! Let’s get to the facts of our nutrition. Our bodies are composed
• Food additives are all badditives! Wrong! of carbon (C), hydrogen (H), oxygen (O), nitrogen (N), cal-
• New types of oilseeds have fats that are nutritionally bene- cium (Ca), phosphorus (P), and the wide range of other chem-
ficial. True! ical elements illustrated in Figure 8. These then are the
• Only children get celiac disease and they can grow out of it elements that are essential in our diet. Their distribution varies
anyway. No and no! across the various foods we eat, as illustrated for breakfast time
• A gluten-free diet will make you feel better. Wrong or not in Figure 9. The importance of the grain-based foods is evident
necessarily. as a source of an important combination of these elements. In
• A gluten-free diet is damaging to your health. Wrong! addition to the trace elements, there are the compounds that
• A gluten-free diet will cause you to miss essential nutrients. we cannot make ourselves, including vitamins, essential amino
Maybe. acids (forming proteins), and essential fatty acids.
• A gluten-free diet means that I cannot eat buckwheat. This information is thus the starting point for good nutri-
Wrong! tion. Beyond these essential components is the matter of how
THE BASICS | The Grains that Feed the World 7

Finally, there is the important factor of how much food we


should consume. While an excess of food consumption is a
critical health factor in many countries, elsewhere, hunger is
still present. How can this contrast exist when grain production
is so great?

Correcting Misinformation

Overlaying the elementary recommendations coming from


Figures 8 and 9, there are many, many points of discussion,
various arguments, and gross issues of misinformation about
our nutrition. The points listed in the preceding text are cov-
ered in the succeeding text.

Grains, Fats, and Weight Loss

• The fat you eat goes straight to your hips. Wrong!


• Eat fat-free products and you won’t get fat. Wrong!
• Bread makes you fat. Wrong!
• Food additives are all badditives! Wrong!
• Trans fats, produced in fats from oilseeds, are bad for you.
Maybe!
• New types of oilseeds have fats that are nutritionally extra
beneficial. True!

The Fat We Eat: Where Does It Go?


All the food we eat is broken down to simpler components in
our stomach and intestine before it is absorbed. Starch is
hydrolyzed and absorbed as glucose. Fats are absorbed as the
fatty acids. These simpler compounds are metabolized to
acetyl coenzyme A, which in turn is digested via the Krebs
Figure 7 (a) This is flax. It is wild flax growing in New Zealand, a form cycle (Figure 12) to carbon dioxide and compounds that
of lily (Phormium tenax and Phormium colensoi). It is used by the store the resulting energy. Subsequently, these metabolites
Maoris to make fabrics. (b) This is flax. It is seed from cultivated flax provide energy to our muscles and replace almost all of the
(Linum usitatissimum). This flax or linseed is valuable for its oil content. material in our bodies in regular turnover activities. Some
In addition, the leaves are used to produce linen. The genus name excess will be laid down as fat deposits (maybe in the hips),
was adapted for the floor covering linoleum (informally abbreviated to but these fat deposits come indirectly from any of the compo-
lino), which is made from solidified linseed oil (linoxyn). Flax seed is nents in our diet, not only from fats. Thus, eating fat-free
reputed to assist in lowering serum cholesterol levels.
foods does not necessarily relate to weight loss or gain any
more than any other food source (see article Food Grains and
the Consumer: Grains and Health: Misinformation and
much of them and in what proportions. This topic has been Misconceptions).
addressed in many countries by the provision of nutritional
guidelines, such as those in Figures 10 and 11. They empha-
Bread as a Food
size the quantitative importance of the grain-based foods in
our diets, either as the base of the pyramid or as the largest Bread provides good proportions of protein, starch, fiber, and
sector of the dinner plate. In fact, the major cereal grains fat. But watch what goes onto the bread as a spread or as
(wheat, maize, rice, barley, sorghum, oats, rye, and millet) sandwich filling!
provide about half the protein needs of mankind and over Flour and ground grain are obviously the main ingredients
half of our food energy consumption. Additional contribu- in bread and baked goods generally. In addition, there are
tions are made by the noncereal grains, including soy, canola, various ingredients (some sugar, salt, and fat, plus rising agents
sunflower, and legumes. Worldwide, annual grain production such as yeast and baking powder), including some ingredients
exceeds 2.5 billion tonnes. This equates to about 1 kg of grain that may be classed as ‘additives.’ The added ingredients have
person per day for the whole world’s population! Why is the functions of enhancing the quality and nutritional value of
there hunger anywhere? the baked foods. But they certainly cannot be labeled as
8 THE BASICS | The Grains that Feed the World

OTHERS
ABUNDANT ELEMENTS

1.5%
PHOSPHORUS RARE
SULFUR
1.0%
POTASSIUM
SODIUM
CHLORINE
CALCIUM
MAGNESIUM
1.5% VERY RARE
IRON
FLUORINE
NITROGEN SILICON

3.0% ZINC
STRONTIUM
RUBIDIUM
LEAD
HYDROGEN
MANGANESE
10% COPPER
ULTRA RARE
ALUMINUM
CARBON CADMIUM
TIN
18% BARIUM
MERCURY
SELENIUM
IODINE
OXYGEN
MOLYBDENUM
65% NICKEL
BORON
CHROMIUM
ARSENIC
COBALT
VANADIUM
= MINERALS

Figure 8 The proportions of the chemical elements that make up our bodies. Reproduced from Bunpei Y (2012) Wonderful Life with the Elements. San
Francisco, CA: No Starch Press.

badditives. All such ingredients must be approved by the sourced from fish; they are now becoming available in grains
respective government agencies (see articles Food Grains and via new genotypes of oilseeds such as canola (Figure 13) (see
the Consumer: Fortification of Grain-Based Foods; Wheat- articles Breeding of Grains: Canola/Rapeseed: Genetics and
Based Foods: Breads; Cookies, Biscuits and Crackers: Formu- Breeding; Fats: Healthy Fats and Oils; Lipid Chemistry; The
lation, Processing and Characteristics; Flatbreads of the World; Oilseeds: Canola: Overview).
Sour Dough Technology).

Celiac Disease: Going Gluten-Free or Not


Different Types of Fats
The various species of oilseeds provide edible oils for many of • Only children get celiac disease and they can grow out of it
our food sources. An example is margarine. In its processing, anyway. No and no!
some trans fats may be produced; being unnatural, trans fats • A gluten-free diet will make you feel better. Wrong or not
are suspect and thus discouraged. Polyunsaturated fatty acids necessarily.
in our diet are considered superior to fully saturated fats, which • A gluten-free diet is damaging to your health. Wrong!
come mainly from animal sources. Grains are major sources of • A gluten-free diet will cause you to miss essential nutrients.
polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, Maybe.
and linolenic acid. Some of these are essential in our diet. • A gluten-free diet means that I cannot eat buckwheat. Wrong!
Especially desirable in our diet are the long-chain omega-3 • At least we know that coffee and milk are gluten-free. Not
oils (eicosapentaenoic acid and docosahexaenoic acid), mainly necessarily.
SALAD FRUIT YOGURT

Ca K Fe YOGURT

Zn Mg Mn Ca Mo K Mg
BREAD

P P I Co Na
P K Fe
FRUITS
Na CI Ca
K Mg Cu Zn
Mn
P

BUTTER

Ca Mg Na

K Co P

Se Cu

BACON AND Ca Fe K
EGGS
Na P Zn
BACON

P Cl Mg Cu

Na K S EGGS
COFFEE
BLACK PEPPER Se Fe Ca P Cr
K
Cr K S Zn Co K

EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN BREAKFAST

Figure 9 Sources of the chemical elements in breakfast. The elements carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen are not included because they are in all
these foods. Reproduced from Bunpei Y (2012) Wonderful Life with the Elements. San Francisco, CA: No Starch Press.

Fats, Oils & Sweets KEY


Fat (naturally occurring and added)
USE SPARINGLY
Sugars (added)
These symbols show fats and added sugars in foods.

Milk, Yogurt & Meat, Poultry, Fish, Dry Beans,


Cheese Group Eggs & Nuts Group
2-3 SERVINGS 2-3 SERVINGS

Vegetable Group Fruit Group


3-5 SERVINGS 2-4 SERVINGS

Bread, Cereal,
Rice & Pasta
Group
6-11
SERVINGS

Figure 10 Nutritional guide pyramid provided by the US Department of Agriculture.


10 THE BASICS | The Grains that Feed the World

Why the Gluten-Free Diet? feel better. However, beyond these cases, gluten-free diet has
become a dietary fad with many adherents. The inferior quality
People who are diagnosed with celiac disease must adhere to a
of much of the gluten-free bread available is a testament to the
gluten-free diet. Celiac disease is a disease affecting all ages; the
value of gluten in bread making. Nevertheless, there are many
only treatment, a gluten-free diet, is a lifelong commitment.
substitutes for the function of gluten in the production of
There are other conditions, less well characterized, for which
gluten-free foods (Figure 14).
benefit has been obtained by the omission of gluten from the
Strict adherence to a gluten-free is difficult given the use of
diet. In these cases, perhaps, a gluten-free diet will make you
wheat, rye, triticale, and barley in many processed foods. In the
process of avoiding gluten, it may be possible that some normal
nutrient sources are also avoided with the consequent risk of
missing out on some essential nutrients. But overall, it is unlikely
that eating gluten-free diets will be damaging to your health (see
articles Appendix 3: Grains, Foods, and Ingredients Suiting

Figure 11 Nutritional guidelines as a dinner plate provided by the


Australian government. Figure 13 Canola in flower in Scotland.

sugars, fats

Acetyl-CoA

more oxaloacetate citrate more


oxidized reduced

malate [cis-aconitate]

fumarate isocitrate

succinate [oxalosuccinate]

succinyl-coA α–ketoglutarate

Figure 12 The Krebs cycle via which fats and sugars are broken down to CO2 releasing energy that is stored in compounds such as adenosine
triphosphate.
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ordinance of fate it so happened, that at that moment the King of that city
was passing by on his elephant. So when she saw it, Shrí said to herself:
There is my deliverance in the form of an elephant. And now I must sin a
little, to save myself from greater guilt. Then she called to the mahout:
Come nearer, O driver of the elephant: for I am anxious to taste the delight
of riding on an elephant. And hearing this, the mahout looked at the King.
And the King looked at the face of Shrí. And Shrí shot at the King a blue
glance from her eye. And instantly the King lost his senses, and said to the
mahout: Do as she bids thee. So the mahout brought the elephant under the
window, and Shrí let herself fall from the window on to his back. And she
caught hold of the King to save herself from falling, and the King almost
fainted from excess of joy, and the nectar of her touch. And without losing a
moment, he carried her off to his palace, as delighted as if he had conquered
the whole earth. But the merchant, when he found that she had gone,
abandoned the body in his despair.

Then as soon as they reached the palace, the King said to Shrí: What is
thy name and family? Shrí said: I am a King's daughter from a far country,
and my name is Shrí. Then said the King: Thou didst well to forsake that
miserable trader for me. Should the lioness, forsooth! mate with the jackal?
And now will I place thee, like a choice jewel, in the centre of my diadem,
and thou shall be the very apex of the summit of my fortune[3]. Then said
Shrí: King, do not speak thus. For I am the wife of another. And I fled to
thee for refuge, and not for frivolity: for yonder merchant would have made
me his wife by force. So do me justice, and let me go: for I may not be a
wife to thee.

Then said the King: Thy dark blue eyes have utterly destroyed my sense
of right and wrong, which are now mere words without meaning, impotent
to hold me as is a lotus stalk to fetter that elephant which brought thee
hither; and in vain dost thou talk to me of letting thee go: thou askest me for
my life: for till I saw those unfathomable blue lakes which thou hast stolen
to make thee eyes, I never lived. Only consent, and I will efface by my
devotion the memory of thy husband, as the sun dries up a shallow pool.
But Shrí said: Say not pool, but ocean, on which the sun shines for ever, yet
never makes it any less: for such is my love to my husband. But the King
paid no heed to her words, which entered at his ear, but never reached his
mind. For all his soul was in his eyes, feasting on the face of Shrí, which
made him drunk like the juice of Soma[4].

Then seeing the state of the case, Shrí said to herself: Alas! I have
escaped the lesser danger only to incur the greater, and become the prey of
this unrighteous King. Now there is no help for me, save in stratagem, and
the natural craft of woman. And she lifted up her lashes, and cast on the
King a crooked glance, that almost deprived him of his reason. And she
said, moving her bow-arched eyebrows, with a smile: Out upon the heart of
woman, for it is soft as a flower, and averse to constancy! Leave me awhile,
for I must consider this matter. And yet, stay not away too long, for thou art
good to look upon, and well-fitted to be my husband, were I not already the
wife of another man. But hearing this, the King was utterly bewildered, and
doubted the testimony of his ears. And he thought: Now she will consent,
after a little coaxing. And he looked at her as she stood smiling at him,
bowing like a flower from the weight of her bosom and the slenderness of
her waist, and laughed in his intoxication, befooled by the roundness of her
limbs and the blueness of her eyes, and forgetting that the Creator made
woman to be an instrument of delusion, with an exterior of honey and an
interior of poison. And he left her to perform his kingly duties, intending to
return without delay, and thinking the fruit of his birth attained.

But as soon as he was gone, Shrí summoned a chamberlain, and said to


him: Take me to the Head Queen, and lose not a moment, or it will be the
worse for thee. And that chamberlain trembled and obeyed her, for he
feared her power, saying to himself: The King would throw his kingdom
into the sea for a glance from her eye, and now my life is on her forefinger.
So when Shrí came before the Queen, she said to her: Lady, thou art my
sole refuge. Know, that the King thy husband found me to-day in the city,
and stole me away, seeking to make me his wife. Now contrive my escape,
for I am the wife of another, and I may not be his wife. And do it very
quickly, for this is an opportunity which will never occur again. Then the
Queen looked at her, and said to herself: She says well, and I must indeed
send her away without losing a moment. For if she remains here, and
becomes his wife, the King will abandon everything for her sake, and the
state will go to ruin. Moreover, he will never again have anything to do with
me or any other of his queens: for her beauty is like a very feminine
incarnation of the five arrows of the god of love.

So she summoned her confidential women; and they disguised Shrí as a


dancing girl, and conveyed her secretly out of the palace without delay. But
when the King returned, and found that she was gone, he became mad. And
he put to death, of his retainers, everything that was male.

[1] See note, p. 21.

[2] As this might sound bizarre to the English reader, accustomed to the elaborate
toilettes of western ladies, he should know, that nothing can be more simple than
the dress of a Hindoo woman. A single long piece of stuff, wound like a petticoat
round the waist, secured, and thrown over the head to form a veil, forms a
garment that the Greeks might have envied. Nothing can surpass the taste, beauty,
and grace of the way in which it follows and reveals without betraying the figure
of its wearer.

[3] He plays on her name. The old Hindoo rájás had the same veneration for their
royal fortune (Shrí) as the Romans for their Fors Fortuna.

[4] A play on her name, as a digit of the moon: Soma is the moon, and the famous
intoxicant of the early Hindoos.

XIII.

The Light in Darkness

But Shrí, when she got out of the palace, instantly went out of the city by
unfrequented paths, and entered the Great Forest. For she said to herself: If
I remain in the city, I may fall again into the power of the King, or, it may
be, of someone still worse. For alas! every man that sees me is blinded by
my eyes, and I shall not always find a door of escape from persecution.
Moreover, to beauty without its guardian, wild beasts are less dangerous
than men with souls through the influence of passion worse than those of
beasts. Better far to be devoured by an animal, than become perforce the
wife of another man.

So she went on through the forest for many days, supporting her life on
roots and fruits and the water of the pools and streams. And she tore her
clothes to pieces in the bushes, and pierced her feet with their thorns,
leaving where she passed on the grass drops of blood, like rubies, mingled
with the pearls of her tears that fell beside them, as often as she thought of
her absent husband. And the deeper she went into the wood, the more her
spirit sank, and the more her soul longed for the nectar of her husband's
arms. Alas! the courage of women is but a pale and lunar image in the
mirror of that of men, and vanishes in their absence. And at last there came
a day when she was seized with panic, and a fear of unknown evil: and she
sank down at the foot of a tree, and watered its roots with her tears.

Now it happened, that some Bhillas, hunting, by the decree of destiny, in


the forest, came upon her track, and saw the drops of blood upon the leaves.
And they followed them up, saying to themselves: Some wounded animal
has passed this way. So as they came along, every now and then they
stopped and listened. And suddenly, they heard the sound of the voice of a
woman, weeping in the wood. Then full of astonishment, they proceeded in
the direction of the sound: and all at once they saw Shrí, sitting under a tree,
looking like an incarnation of Rati grieving for her husband, when burned
by Maheshwara[1]. For her clothes were torn, and her hair was dishevelled,
and her great eyes filled with tears resembled the petals of a blue lotus
sparkling with drops of water cast upon them by the sporting of swans in a
pool. So those wild Bhillas wondered when they saw her, and said to each
other: What is this marvel of a dancing girl, so ragged and so beautiful,
weeping alone in the wood? And then they went up to her and stood round
her in a ring. And she looked in the midst of those black barbarians like a
digit of the moon in the jaws of Ráhu. Then after a while the spell of her
beauty entered and poisoned the hearts of those Bhillas, like one of their
own arrows. And each one said secretly to himself: She shall be my wife.
So they debated about her, and proposed to each other to draw lots for her.
But they could not agree about it, and fell to quarrelling, and it was as if a
stone had been dropped into a nest of serpents.

Then one laid hands upon her, and then another, till she was nearly torn
in pieces. And finally they came to blows, and fought for her over her body,
filled by the frenzy begotten by her beauty, and the desire of exclusive
possession[2]. And very soon they were all either dead or dying of wounds,
for each was more eager to destroy another than to protect himself: and they
lay all about her unable to move. Then Shrí, seizing her opportunity, and
urged by terror, rose up and fled away from them, being sprinkled by their
blood, mingled with her own, for she had received in the struggle a blow
from a Bhilla that was meant for another. And she ran on, stumbling over
roots and creepers in her haste, till she came at last to a forest pool. And
there she lay down at the edge of the water and drank greedily; and
afterwards washed her wound and stains, and bathed her feet, and overcome
by weariness, fell asleep. Then the moon rose, and stole through the trees
and kissed her with beams that trembled with admiration[3]; and the wild
animals came down, one by one, to drink at the pool, and obedient to the
commands of Triambaka, did her no harm, but licked her feet and hands as
she lay.

Now, as fate would have it, this was the very pool, at which Umra-Singh
had met with Ulupí, the daughter of the Daitya. And in course of the night,
Ulupí came herself to the pool, to dance and sport according to her wont.
And when she arrived, she saw Shrí, lying asleep by the pool. So she came
and stood over her, and marvelled at the beauty of her limbs, even though
her eyes were shut. And at last, out of curiosity, she touched her on the
bosom with her finger, saying to herself: Is this an illusion, or is it a real
woman, and is she dead or alive? But Shrí shuddered at her touch, for it
suggested evil to her sleeping soul. And she opened her eyes, and their deep
blue awoke the envy of the daughter of the Daitya, and astonished her even
more than before.

Then they looked at each other, like light and darkness, and each
wondered at the loveliness of the other, forgetful of her own. And at last
Ulupí said: Who art thou, and what is thy name and family, and whence hast
thou come to my pool, and why? Shrí said: I am a King's daughter, looking
for my husband, whom I lost, by the operation of crimes in a former birth,
at the very moment that I found him again, after that he had returned to me
from the Land of the Lotus of the Sun. But when Ulupí heard her, she was
filled with sudden rage and malice. And she said to herself: Ha! so this is
that absent lotus of the day, by reason of whom my beauty was scorned, and
set at nought by the handsome stranger who saw me dancing by my pool.
And instantly she started up, and assuming a terrific form, she gnashed at
Shrí with teeth like saws, and made horrible grimaces at her, saying:
Wretch, thou shalt never quit this wood, but wander for ever with thy
accursed beauty among its trees, haunted and beset by hideous illusions till
thou shalt long for death. Let thy absent husband save thee if he can. And
she vanished with a peal of laughter, leaving Shrí fainting by the pool.

But Ulupí flew through the wood, and found Nightwalker, the old
Wairágí, and told him all, and begged of him a boon, saying: Torment this
miserable mortal woman, and deceive her with illusions for she has done
me deadly injury. And Nightwalker rejoiced at the opportunity, for he
remembered how Umra-Singh had defied him, and cut off his tongue in the
wood. But he said: This is no easy matter, for we are forbidden by
Pashupati to do her harm. But though I will do her no injury, I will delude
this wandering wife of a vile husband, till she will desire to abandon the
body of her own accord.

[1] See note, p. 9.

[2] ahamahamiká, 'each one saying I, I.'

[3] The Moon proper, in Sanskrit, is Lunus, not Luna.

XIV.
Illusion

But Shrí, when she came to herself, sat weeping, and fearing for herself
in the future: for she foreboded evil from the malicious pranks of the
daughter of the Daitya. And yet she could not tell, how she could possibly
have offended her, or deserved her anger. And as soon as day broke, she
rose up, and began to go trembling through the wood, in which the shadows
of night still hung among the trees, starting at the noise of the falling leaves,
and yearning for emancipation from danger in the form of her husband's
presence.

Then after a while, she stopped and listened: for she heard among the
trees steps, as of one coming in her direction. And her heart beat violently,
as if to say: Let me abandon thy body, and so escape the danger coming on
thee. So she hid herself in a hollow tree, and peeped out in terror. And
suddenly, strange! there in the dim twilight she saw her husband coming
towards her, looking just as he did, when she left him in the palace at
Indirálayá. And instantly she ran towards him, overcome by emotion and
great surprise, and caught him in her arms, exclaiming: At last, at last, I
have found thee again. And she wept aloud, and forgot in that moment all
her sorrow; and she looked at him, and laughed for joy, and closed her eyes,
as if, like the sun, the sight of him dimmed and overcame the faculty of
vision. Then after a while, she opened them again, and started and shrieked,
and her blood became ice, and her heart stopped. For he that held her in his
arms was not her husband, but a hairy thing with hideous eyes, that
resembled an incarnation of the brute in human shape; and it fastened those
fearful eyes upon her own, and laughed and whined and panted like a beast
with hot quick breath into her face. Then her senses abandoned her, like
cowards, and she sank down to the earth in a swoon.

And when at length she revived, she looked, and saw that the sun was
declining in the western quarter. But the moon had not yet risen, for it was
the beginning of the dark half of the month. Then all at once memory came
back to her, and she shook with agitation. And she said to herself: Was it a
reality, or was it only an evil dream? Surely it was but a dream; for I am
very weak and tired. And even now I cannot tell, whether I wake or sleep.
So she sat with her eyes closed; fearing to open them, lest she should see
she knew not what among the shadows of the trees. And then the waning
moon rose, and poured through the interstices of the leaves beams faint and
pallid, as if sharing her own terror. And at last, unable to endure any longer
the silence and the solitude, she rose up and began to move slowly, with
hesitating steps, through the dark wood, not knowing where to go, yet not
daring to stay where she was.

And suddenly, as she went, she looked before her, and there, in an open
space, again she saw her husband, lying still under a tree. Instantly she
stopped, and stood, balanced in the swing of vacillation. For the joy of
reunion, and the desire of safety, and the fear of solitude drew her towards
him like a threefold cord: while the memory of her deception, and the fear
of illusion, and the anticipation of unknown danger, fixed her to the ground
like roots. And she wavered and swayed on her feet, like a young shoot
fanned by opposing breezes: while large tears fell from her eyes, like drops
of camphor from a moonstone[1]. And as she stood there doubting whether
he were dead or alive, for his face was wan in the light of the pallid moon,
his eyes opened, and met her own. And he sprang up, and ran towards her,
while she remained unable to stir, and took her in his arms, while she
shrank from his embrace. And he exclaimed: The sight of thee has lifted me
out of the mouth of death, for I had determined to abandon the body. And
then he said again: Alas! and why, O thou of the lovely eyes, dost thou
shrink from me? But Shrí remained silent, torn by suspicion, and shaken by
the beating of her own heart. And ever and anon she raised her eyes, and
looked at him in doubt. And then at last she said slowly: Art thou indeed
my husband? is it really thyself and no one else? Then he said: What is thy
question or thy doubt? Hast thou forgotten me already? Surely it is but a
little while since I lost thee in the palace of Indirálayá. Then said Shrí,
sighing: There came to me but now one who resembled thee in every
feature, and deceived me: and even now, I shudder when I think of it, lest
thou too should be another such as he.

Then he said: Dear, thou art weak, and a dream has deceived thee: but
this time, it is no dream. Know that I am none other than myself, and thou
art with me. Let me dispel thy terror with a kiss. And he bent down, and she
raised her face with a smile, saying to herself: It was nothing but a dream.
But even as she touched his face, it changed, and became gigantic and
misshapen, with a large tongue that hung out of lips that resembled those of
a cow; and it broke out into loud laughter, and disappeared. But Shrí fell to
the ground, as if menaced by the outstretched forefinger of death.

[1] The Hindoos have a superstition, illustrated in a previous page, that


moonstones in the rays of the moon distil a sort of lunar syrup, nectar or camphor,
supposed to be composed of the substance of the moon.

XV.

The Dead of Night

So she lay, all night long: and when at length the day dawned, she came,
though with difficulty, back to herself. And she tried to rise, but could not,
for her limbs refused to do their duty. So she lay there, cold as snow, and
shivering like the surface of a lake ruffled by the wind.

Then gradually the sun left his home in the eastern mountain, and
ascended the sky. And warmed by his beams, a little of her strength
returned: and after a while, she rose to her feet, which wandered away, and
carried her where they would, until they brought her to another forest pool.
And there she lay down, and leaned and drank of its water. And she looked
into its mirror, and saw herself, slender and emaciated as the old moon, but
pale and colourless as that moon at mid-day[1]. And her long hair fell down
over her shoulder into the water. Then she bound up that wet hair into a
knot, and remained all day by the pool, not endeavouring to go further: for
she said to herself: Rather let me stay here to perish of hunger, or furnish
myself food to some wild beast, than continue my journey through a wood
filled with illusions worse than a hundred deaths. For they wear the guise of
a friend, and so finding entrance into my heart sting it like serpents, turning
into poison the nectar of him whom most of all I long to see. Surely my sins
in a former birth were terrible in their enormity: for I have suffered in this
existence pain sufficient for many lives. And now I feel that I cannot long
endure, for my strength is becoming exhausted. O that I could indeed find
my husband, were it only to die in his arms!

So she sat by the pool, grieving like a female chakrawáka for her mate,
while the sun made, like the enemy of Bali, but three steps over the sky.
And when at last he sank, she also grew weary, and fell asleep on the edge
of the pool. And in her dreams she saw her husband, and drank her fill of
the nectar of his embraces. And then, in the dead of night, she awoke, and
sat up, and looked, and lo! there in the moonlight she saw him again,
silently sitting beside her. And she leaped to her feet in agony, and turned to
fly, and screamed aloud. For there stood before her another husband on the
other side. Then suddenly the whole wood was full of laughter. And her
reason fled, and she became mad. And she exclaimed: Out on this wood, for
it is full of husbands! And she began to run through the wood, shutting her
eyes, and stopping her ears.

[1] The same idea is beautifully put by Butler in Hudibras, where he calls the
sun's light on the moon a

Mysterious veil, of brightness made,


That's both her lustre and her shade.

XVI.

Before Dawn
And now, by the decree of destiny, it so happened, that Umra-Singh,
having wandered through the whole world looking for his wife, roaming up
and down in the forest, was lying asleep in another place, close to that very
pool. And suddenly he laughed in his sleep. For in his dreams he had found
again the Land of the Lotus of the Sun. And he stood once more in the
moonlit hall, beside the golden couch. Then slowly, slowly, he raised the
pall, and looked long at the face of Shrí. But as he gazed, it became apeish,
and stuck out at him a large red tongue. And he saw before him, not Shrí,
but the old Wairágí. Then a shout of laughter rang in his ears, mingled with
the voices of criers and the din of drums; and he started to his feet awake,
with an icy sweat on his brow.

And as he stood there, doubting still, for the laughter in his waking ears,
whether he woke or slept, he looked before him, and saw in the moonlight
the figure of a woman, running towards him: and instantly he knew her to
be Shrí. For out of the shadow of her floating hair her great eyes glittered in
the moon like the blade of his own sword, and flashed into the night before
her like lightning from a dark blue cloud. And he ran to meet her with a
shout of joy. But Shrí, when she saw him coming, stopped short, and began
to laugh like one possessed by a vampire. And crying: What, another! she
turned and fled away from him faster than ever, covering her eyes with her
hands. But Umra-Singh was so astonished, that he stood like a tree, rooted
to the ground: saying to himself: Is it reality, or is it a dream? Yonder she
flies from me in terror as if I were an enemy.

And then, seized with frenzy, he began to pursue her, calling aloud: Shrí!
Shrí! So they ran through the wood in the moonlight, in and out of the trees,
like a spotted panther and a black antelope. And suddenly, Shrí slipped and
fell. And a tawny lion leaped out of the wood, before the eyes of Umra-
Singh, and stood over her as she lay. Then Umra-Singh turned white with
fear, and uttered a groan. And in a moment he reached them as he ran, and
struck at the lion, with all his force, a blow of his sword. Then lo! that
phantom lion vanished, for he was but an illusion of the crafty Nightwalker.
But the sword fell, sharp and true, on the shoulder of Shrí, and cut through
to her heart.
Then Umra-Singh fell on his knees beside her with a wail, and took his
darling in his arms, while her blood gushed out over him like a river,
carrying away her life. And as his hot tears fell on her face like rain, Shrí
opened her dying eyes: and instantly they were full of peace, for she knew
that it was her husband at last. And she said slowly: Weep not for me, O my
lord, for I have attained the emancipation of union with thee. All day long, I
have sought thee: but I have found thee in the evening, before my sun goes
down: that is enough.
Dawn.

And at that very moment, the curse came to an end. Then those two
erring lovers regained their immortal natures. And they looked at one
another, dazed and bewildered, for they thought that they had awoken from
a dream. And their spirits rose out of those mortal bodies which they had
abandoned, and soared away to their heavenly home, locked in each other's
arms.

But Maheshwara, from his seat on Kailàs, saw them go. And perceiving
all, by the power of his mystical intuition, he said to himself: There are
those two foolish lovers rejoicing to have awoken from a dream; not
knowing that it was but a dream within a dream, and that they are still
asleep. And he laughed aloud: and the thunder of the shout of his laughter
rolled and reverberated, and rattled in the blue hollows of Himálaya, like
the sound of a drum.

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