Frankie The Little Fox

Frankie The Little Fox
SECURITY BLANKET CROCHET PATTERN
© 2021 Theodore & Rose – Alanna O’Dea – all rights reserved. This pattern is FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY! The pattern (or parts of it) may not be
reproduced, distributed or resold, translated, published, altered, shared or posted (for self or free) over the internet or offline! You are not allowed to form
and sell kits of yarn for my patterns without my explicit permission. You can sell items made from this pattern provided that they are handmade by
yourself in a limited number (no more than 30 items per year) and you give credit to the designer. Please add the following lines to your item description
and any item you are selling: "This toy is handmade by… (your name)…from a design and pattern by Theodore & Rose, Alanna O’Dea
www.theodoreandrose.com ”
FRANKIE THE LITTLE FOX SECURITY BLANKET PATTERN BY THEODORE AND ROSE 2
TOOLS & MATERIALS:
! Hook size: 2.25mm crochet hook and
3.5mm crochet hook
! Yarn - I used Catona 100% mercerized cotton by

Scheepjes (50g / 125m) Yarn weight: fingering in;
Shade 383 Ginger Gold – 3x 50g (orange)
Shade 105 Bridal White – 1x 50g (white)
Shade 263 Petal Peach – 1x 10g (pink)
Black embroidery cotton for detail around eyes
! 9mm black round safety eyes (optional)

! 15mm black safety nose (optional)
! Fiberfill ~ 40g
! Stitch marker
! Tapestry needle
! Sharp scissors
SKILL LEVEL:
Advanced Beginner / Intermediate
GAUGE:
Blanket gauge: The first 5 rounds of the blanket = 10.5cm x 10.5cm (4.13” x 4.13”).
Amigurumi gauge: 5 rounds = 3.5cm (1.4”) across (Note: crochet the first 5 rounds of the head to check gauge).
GENERAL ADVICE:
! Read the entire pattern before you start.
! To prevent your fabric from showing large stretch holes when stuffed, choose a smaller hook size than that recommended
on the ball sleeve of your yarn.
! Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. This helps when counting your stitches to compare it with the
pattern.
! When working the amigurumi (3-dimensional) parts (head, snout, ears and arms), work in continuous spirals, without closing
off the rounds with a slip stitch – unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
! Stuff firmly unless instructed otherwise. Insert small amounts at a time until you get the right look. Stuffing your toy can be
tricky, but it is a very important step in getting the right shape and look for your toy: overstuffing might stretch the crocheted
piece too far and show gaps and under stuffing will give your piece a deflated look. Take your time with this step.
! To help you when sewing pieces together, first pin them into place and check that you are happy with the positioning.
SAFETY NOTE: If the blanket is to be made for a child under 3 years of age, omit safety eyes and nose and use black yarn to
embroider the eyes and nose on. Make sure each piece of the lovey is firmly and securely sewn together so that it cannot pull apart.
Check lovey regularly for loose parts and wear and tear. If you intend to sell your finished item, as the maker of these items, you are
responsible for marketing a safe toy. Please make sure they comply with the legal requirements of the respective country in which the
toy is going to be sold.
TIPS & TUTORIALS: For amigurumi tips and tutorials on the magic ring, closing remaining stitches in the round, the invisible
decrease, how to make a smooth colour change and more, please visit my website https://www.theodoreandrose.com and look
under the TIPS & TUTORIALS tab on the home page.
ABBREVIATIONS (US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern)
[…] x repeat instructions within brackets as a sequence as inc increase (crochet 2 stitches into the same stitch, as
many times as directed indicated eg. sc inc)
(..) total number of stitches after the round or row mm millimeter(s)
**…** repeat instructions as many times as instructed MR magic ring
beg beginning Rnd(s) round(s)
BLO work stitch as indicated through back loop only sc single crochet
CC colour change sk skip
ch chain sl st slip stitch
dc double crochet sp space
dec work 2 crochet stitches together to decrease (use st(s) stitch(es)
invisible decrease method.) tr treble crochet
hdc half double crochet turn turn your work so you can work the next row
© 2021 Theodore & Rose – Alanna O’Dea – all rights reserved. This pattern is FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY! The pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated, published,
altered, shared or posted (for self or free) over the internet or offline! You are not allowed to form and sell kits of yarn for my patterns without my explicit permission. You can sell items made from this
pattern provided that they are handmade by yourself in a limited number (no more than 30 items per year) and you give credit to the designer. Please add the following lines to your item description and any
item you are selling: "This toy is handmade by… (your name)…from a design and pattern by Theodore & Rose, Alanna O’Dea www.theodoreandrose.com”
THE PATTERN
HEAD
Using 2.25mm hook and orange yarn, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: ch1, sc 6 into ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: sc inc in all 6 st (12sts)
Rnd 3: [sc in next st, sc inc in next st] x6 (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [sc in next 2 st, sc inc in next st] x6 (24 sts)
Rnd 6: sc in next 2 st, sc inc in next st, [sc in next 4 st, sc inc in next st] x5, sc in
next 2 st (36 sts)
Rnd 8: sc in next 3 st, sc inc in next st, [sc in next 6 st, sc inc in next st] x5, sc in
next 3 st (48 sts)
Rnd 9: sc in next 5 st, sc inc in next st, [sc in next 11 st, sc inc in next st] x3, sc
in next 6 st (52 sts)
Photo 1
Rnd 10-14: sc in all 52 st (52sts) (5 Rnds)
Rnd 16-18: sc in all 56 st (56 sts) (3 Rnds)
Rnd 20: sc in all 60 st (60 sts)
Rnd 23: sc in next 14 st, dec, CC to white, dec x2, sc in next 26 st, dec, CC to
orange, dec x2, sc in next 12 st (58 sts) Note: carry yarn behind while
switching between colours, as shown in Photo 1
Rnd 24: sc in next 13 st, dec, CC to white, dec x2, sc in next 23 st, dec, CC to Photo 2
orange, dec x2, sc in next 10 st (52 sts)
Place safety eyes between rounds 20 & 21 set 12 sts apart (optional).
Rnd 25: sc in next 12 st, dec, CC to white, dec, sc in next 22 st, dec, CC to
orange, dec, sc in next 10 st (48 sts)
Rnd 26: sc in next 13 st, CC to white, sc in next 24 st, CC to orange, sc in next
11 st (48 sts)
Rnd 27: sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 5 st, CC to white, sc in next st, dec, [sc in
next 6 st, dec] x2, sc in next 5 st, CC to orange, sc in next st, dec, sc in
next 6 st, dec (42 sts)
Rnd 28: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 5 st, CC to white, dec, [sc in next 5 st,
dec] x2, sc in next 5 st, CC to orange, dec, sc in next 5 st, dec (36 sts)
Rnd 29: sc in next 11 st, CC to white, sc in next 18 st, CC to orange, sc in next
7 st (36 sts)
Rnd 30: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 5 st, CC to white, dec, [sc in next 4 st,
dec] x2, sc in next 4 st, CC to orange, dec, sc in next 3 st, dec (30 sts) Photo 3 – finished head (eyes optional)
Rnd 31: Working round in BLO – [sc in next 3 st, dec] x2, CC to white, [sc in next 3 st, dec] x3, CC to orange, sc in next 3 st,
dec (24 sts) Note: This BLO round helps identify where to sew, when the blanket is attached to the head later. (Photo 2)
Stuff the head with fiber fill. Take your time with this step. The next 3 rounds will be worked in orange only.
Rnd 32: [sc in next 2 st, dec] x6 (18 sts)
Rnd 33: [sc in next st, dec] x6 (12 sts)
Rnd 34: [dec] x6 (6 sts)
Leaving a long yarn tail (about 30cm) for sewing the head to the blanket, break the yarn & pull through. Weave the yarn tail through the
FLO (front loop only) of round 34 & pull firmly to close off the head. You can find a tutorial on how to close your stitches on
my website www.theodoreandrose.com
EARS (Make 2)
Using 2.25mm hook and orange yarn, make a magic ring.
Rnd 13: [dec, sc in next 12 st] x2 (26 sts)
Break the yarn leaving a long tail (about 30cm) for sewing the ears to the head.
SNOUT
Using 2.25mm hook and white yarn, make a magic ring.
Rnd 2: [sc inc next st] x6 (12 sts)
Break the yarn leaving a long tail (about 20cm) for sewing the snout to the head. If you
are using a safety nose attach this now between rounds 2 & 3. If you are choosing to
embroider on the nose we will do this once the snout has been stuffed and sewn on to
the head.
ARMS (Make 2)
Using 2.25mm hook and white yarn, make a magic ring.
Rnd 9: [sc in next 4 st, dec] x3 (15sts)
Rnd 12-31: CC to orange . Sc in all 15 st (15 sts) (20 Rnds)
Fill arms with a small amount of fiberfill (concentrated mostly in the hands). Flatten the
top together and sc 7 st through both layers to close the opening. Break the yarn
leaving a long tail (about 20cm) for sewing the arms to the blanket.
CHEEKS (Make 2)
Using 2.25mm hook and light pink yarn, make a magic ring.
Rnd 2: [sc inc in next st] x5 (10 sts)
Leaving a long yarn tail break yarn and weave in starting yarn tail only.
JOINING PARTS TO HEAD AND STITCHING ON FACIAL FEATURES
Step 1a: Sew the muzzle to the head Step 1b: If you are opting to embroider Step 1c: Next use long stitches from
centered between Rnds 21 & 29. If you on the nose, use black yarn to form the top to bottom to fill the nose in. Secure
have opted for a safety nose, use black outer shape of the nose & muzzle line the yarn at the base of the head.
yarn to sew on a muzzle line as shown. first as shown.
Secure yarn at the base of the head –
the blanket will cover this later.
Step 2a: Use the long yarn tail to sew Step 2b: Create a small curve in the Step 2c: When finished sewing the
on the ears centered on the head ear towards the back of the head. ears, secure the yarn tail at the base of
between rows 5 & 16. the head.
Step 3a: If you have opted to use Step 3b: If embroidering on eyes sew Step 4: Use white yarn to embroider
safety eyes, use black & white thread on as desired. I like to use black on detail to forehead as shown.
to embroider on a little extra detail thread to make sleepy eyes as shown. Secure yarn at the base of the head.
around the eyes as shown. Sew on Secure thread at the base of the head.
both cheek rounds. Sew on both cheek rounds
BLANKET
This blanket is made by crocheting a continuous square worked in rounds. You can modify this pattern to make it as big, or small as
you wish by crocheting more, or less rounds.
SPECIAL STITCHES: Shell – 7 dc worked into the same space ‘V’ Stitch – (1 dc, ch1, 1 dc)
Using a 3.5mm hook and orange yarn make a MR:
Rnd 1: ch 5 (counts as a dc & ch2 sp throughout), into MR work [3 dc, ch 2] x3, 2 dc. Pull the ring closed. Join round with a sl st
into 3 rdch of beg ch 5, sl st into ch2 sp. (12 sts & 4 ch2 sp) (Refer Photo 1)
Rnd 2: ch 4 (counts as first tr throughout), work 2 dc in ch2 sp, [work 1 dc in next 3 sts, into corner ch2 sp work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] x3.
Work 1 dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc into first ch2 sp to finish. Join round with a sl st into top of beg ch 4. (32 sts) (Refer Photo 2)
Rnd 3: ch 5, work 2 dc in corner tr, [work 1 dc in next 7 sts, into corner tr work (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) in corner tr] x3, work 1 dc in next 7
sts, 1 dc into first corner tr to finish. Join round with a sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch 5, sl st into ch2 sp (44 sts & 4 ch2 sp)
Rnd 4: ch 4, work 2 dc in ch2 sp, [work 1 dc in next 11 sts, into corner ch2 sp work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] x3. Work 1 dc in next 11 sts,
2 dc into first ch2 sp to finish. Join round with a sl st into top of beg ch 4. (64 sts)
Rnd 5: ch 5, work 2 dc in corner tr, [work 1 dc in next 15 sts, into corner tr work (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) in corner tr] x3, work 1 dc in next
15 sts, 1 dc into first corner tr to finish. Join round with a sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch 5, sl st into ch2 sp (76 sts & 4 ch2 sp)
Rnd 6: ch 4, work 2 dc in ch2 sp, [work 1 dc in next 19 sts, into corner ch2 sp work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc)] x3. Work 1 dc in next 19 sts,
2 dc into first ch2 sp to finish. Join round with a sl st into top of beg ch 4. (96 sts) (Refer Photo 3)
Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3
Important Note On Subsequent Rounds: The next part of this blanket will be made up of two repeat rounds – a ’shell’ round (7 dc
worked into the same space), and a framework round of ‘V’ stitches (1dc, ch1, 1dc). I will make reference to ‘shells’ & ‘V’ stitches in the
instructions that follow.
Rnd 7: ch 1, work 1 sc into corner tr, ** [sk next 2 st, into 3rd st along work a shell, sk next 2 st, work 1 sc into next st] x3, sk next 2
st, work a shell into the next st, sk next 2 st, work 1 sc into corner tr ** x3, [sk next 2 st, into 3rd st along work a shell, sk next
2 st, into next st work 1 sc] x3, sk next 2 st, work a shell into next st, sk 2 st, work sl st into beg sc to close round.
(16 shells) (Refer photo 4 & 5 to help with this round)
Rnd 8: ch 6 (counts as first dc & ch 3 sp throughout), work a ‘V’ st into base of ch 6, **[ch 5, sk shell & work a ‘V’ st into sc] x3,
ch 5, into corner sc work a ‘V’ st, ch3, work another ‘V’ st into same corner ** x3, [ch 5, sk shell & work a ‘V’ stitch into
sc] x3, ch 5, work 1 dc into base of beg ch 6, ch1, join round with sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch 6, sl st into ch 3 sp. (20 ‘V’ sts)
(Refer Photo 6)
Photo 4 Photo 5- Rnd 7 shell round Photo 6 – Rnd 8 framework round

Rnd 9: ch 1, work 1 sc into ch 3 sp, ** [into ‘V’ st work a shell, find middle (4th) dc of shell made in round 7 & work 1 sc] x4, into next
‘V’ st work a shell, sc into ch3 corner sp ** x3, [into ‘V’ st work a shell, find middle of shell made in round 7 & work 1 sc] x4,
into next ‘V’ st work a shell. Join round with a sl st into top of beg sc. (20 shells) (Refer Photo 7)
Rnd 10: ch 6 (counts as first dc & ch 3 sp throughout), work a ‘V’ st into base of ch 6, **[ch 5, sk shell & work a ‘V’ st into sc] x4,
ch 5, into corner sc work a ‘V’ st, ch3, work another ‘V’ st into same corner ** x3, [ch 5, sk shell & work a ‘V’ stitch into sc]
x4, ch 5, work 1 dc into base of beg ch 6, ch1, join round with sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch 6, sl st into ch 3 sp. (24 ‘V’ sts)
(Refer Photo 8)
Rnd 11: ch 1, work 1 sc into ch 3 sp, ** [into ‘V’ st work a shell, find middle (4th) dc of shell made in round 9 & work 1 sc] x5, into next
‘V’ st work a shell, sc into ch3 corner sp ** x3, [into ‘V’ st work a shell, find middle of shell made in round 9 & work 1 sc] x5,
into next ‘V’ st work a shell. Join round with a sl st into top of beg sc. (24 shells) (Refer Photo 9)

Subsequent Rounds: Continue working a ‘framework’ round (as per round 10) and a ‘shell’ round (as per round 11) until you have
completed a total of 8 shell rounds. Note: The number of ‘V’ stitches made in the ‘framework’ round and shells made in the ‘shell’ round
will increase with each round.
Rnd 12: Work a ‘framework’ round as per round 10. (28 ‘V’ sts)
Rnd 13: Work a shell round as per round 11. (28 shells)
Rnd 21: Work a shell round as per round 11. CC to white on last st. (44 shells) (Refer Photo 10)
Rnd 22: Working the ‘V’ stitches into the back bump work a ‘framework’ round as per round 10. (Refer Photo 11) For further detail on
working into back bump refer mini tutorial on page 8. (48 ‘V’ sts)
Rnd 23: Work a shell round as per round 11, only this time work a sc into the back bump of the middle dc of each shell. (48 shells)
Break yarn & weave in all ends. (Refer Photo 12)
MINI TUTORIAL – WORKING INTO BACK BUMP
ROSE
Using a 2.25mm hook and pink yarn;
Petal 1: ch15, sl st into first ch to make a loop, ch2 (counts as 1st dc), dc 29 into the center of the loop, join round with a sl st into top
of beg ch3. Break yarn & weave in ends. (30 sts) Refer Photo 1.
Petal 2: ch15, loop foundation chain into the center of Petal 1 as shown in Photo 2. Make a sl st into the first ch to make a loop, ch2
(counts as 1st dc), dc 29 into the center of the loop, join round with a sl st into top of beg ch3. Break yarn & weave in ends.
(30 sts) Refer Photo 3.
Petal 3-6: repeat instructions for Petal 2. Refer Photo 4.
Petal 7: ch10, loop foundation chain into the center of Petal 6. Make a sl st into the first ch to make a loop, ch2 (counts as 1st dc),
dc 19 into the center of the loop, join round with a sl st into top of beg ch3. Break yarn & weave in ends. (20 sts)
Petal 8-9: repeat instructions for Petal 7. When breaking the yarn for Petal 9, leave a long yarn tail (about 30 to 40cm) – do not weave
this end in. Refer Photo 5.
Starting from petal 9, fold the small petals (7, 8 & 9) in half along the chain & then begin to roll tightly to form the center of the flower
(refer Photo 6). Continue to roll and shape the flower until you are happy with it’s appearance. Carefully turn the flower over and using
the long yarn tail, pass many stitches through the base of the flower to secure – be sure to pick up each petal multiple times (Photo 7).
Leave the yarn tail attached (Photo 8). Using the yarn tail, secure the flower to the head. (Photo 9). Tie off the yarn tail at the base
of the head where the blanket will cover it.
JOIN HEAD AND ARMS TO THE BLANKET
Step 1: Position the head on the Step 2: Next turn your work again to Step 3: Hold arms into position to the
blanket. While holding the head into begin sewing the blanket to the head side of the head (lining it up with the
place (use pins if you need to), carefully from the right side, making your stitches blanket’s diagonal) & sew into place
turn your work over & using the yarn above the BLO round 31 of the head, using the long yarn tail.
tail from the head, sew an ‘X’ as as shown above. When you have made
shown, being sure to pass through your way all around the head, secure
both the blanket & the head together. & weave in the yarn tail. Your head &
blanket should now be firmly attached.
OMBRE BLANKET OPTION
Scheepjes Catona colours used for blanket;

Rnds 1 - 9 colour 408 Old Rose (used for arms as well)
Rnds 10 - 11 colour 257 Antique Mauve
Rnds 12 - 19 colour 263 Petal Peach
Rnds 20 - 21 colour 105 Bridal White
Rnds 22 - 23 colour 106 Snow White
!!! CONGRATULATIONS!!! !!!

Thank you so much for purchasing my pattern.
I hope you enjoyed making Frankie just as much as I enjoyed creating her for you.
I would LOVE to see your finished Frankie.
If you would like to, please tag your photos
with @theodoreandrose or #theodoreandrose on Instagram.
YOU CAN VISIT ME AND SEE MORE DESIGNS ON THESE PLATFORMS:

Frankie The Little Fox

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Frankie The Little Fox

SECURITY BLANKET CROCHET PATTERN

! Yarn - I used Catona 100% mercerized cotton by

! 9mm black round safety eyes (optional)

JOINING PARTS TO HEAD AND STITCHING ON FACIAL FEATURES

Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3

Photo 4 Photo 5- Rnd 7 shell round Photo 6 – Rnd 8 framework round

Photo 7 Photo 8 Photo 9

Photo 10 Photo 11 Photo 12

MINI TUTORIAL – WORKING INTO BACK BUMP

Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3

Photo 4 Photo 5 Photo 6

Photo 7 Photo 8 Photo 9

JOIN HEAD AND ARMS TO THE BLANKET

OMBRE BLANKET OPTION

Scheepjes Catona colours used for blanket;

!!! CONGRATULATIONS!!! !!!

YOU CAN VISIT ME AND SEE MORE DESIGNS ON THESE PLATFORMS:

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