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Measure pH with a low-cost Arduino pH

sensor board
November 30, 2019 in Arduino, Hydroponics, IoT-Sensors, ph Sensor 2766 Words

I recently bought an Arduino pH sensor kit for measuring pH value of my hydroponic setup,
it cheap but has very little information/document on how to use it, so I decided to figure it
out myself on how it works and how to use it.

Popular pH measurement kits for Arduino


If you search for pH sensor with Arduino on Internet, you are likely see 3 major
commercially available or mass-produced solutions:

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Atlas Scientific offers high quality and well-designed sensor kit for pH measurement. It
Gravity analog pH Kit consists of a consumer-grade pH sensor and interface board, plus 3
package of calibration buffer solutions will cost $65.00. Atlas Scientific hardware is high
quality but doesn't seems to be open-sourced.

DFRobot also has a solution with the same name Gravity (why?) as Atlas Scientific. its
version 1 Gravity: Analog pH Sensor Kit consists of pH probe plus the sensor board and is
priced at $29.50. There is a version 2 of Gravity: Analog pH Sensor Kit which comes with
the board with enhanced design at $39.50 by including buffer solutions and mounting
screws for the board. DFRobot published its schematic, PCB layout and Arduino code for
version 1 on its website and github under GPL2 license. But it only publish the PCB layout
for version 2 without schematic, so I don't know what exactly was enhanced in the design
for the version 2.

The third commonly available pH sensor kit for Arduino that you see almost in every e-
commerce marketplaces such as Taobao, AliExpress and Amazon is this "mystery" pH
sensor kit that I bought. You can find it at as low as $17.00 for a pH probe with the sensor
board. It is "mystery" because it seems that there are multiple Chinese manufacturers
producing the same board but I can't really find out which company actually own the
design. I bought it anyway with the thinking that if I could understand how the pH probe
works and with a little bit of "reverse-engineering" of the circuit design to help me to have
better understanding of the circuitry, then I should be able to figure out on how to make it
work. This fits my tinker spirit well...

Other than those three commonly available pH sensor kits, there are others available in the
market, but they are relatively niche with limited distribution.

If you are interested on pH measurement or pH sensor board, you might to read

further on A review on Seeed Studio pH and eC sensor kits - Part 1".

How pH probe work electronically?


A pH probe consists of two main parts: a glass electrode and a reference electrode as shown
in the picture below. I'm not very good at chemistry, so I won't try to explain it that way, this

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pH theory guide provides very comprehensive explanation about the theory behind. In the
nutshell, pH is determined essentially by measuring the voltage difference between these
two electrodes.

Typical pH probe and characteristics

The pH probe is a passive sensor, which means no excitation voltage or current is required.
It produces a voltage output that is linearly dependent upon the pH of the solution being
measured. An ideal pH probe produces 0v output when pH value is at 7, and it produces a
positive voltage (a few hundred mili-volts) when pH value go down, and a negative voltage
level when pH value go up, causing by the hydrogen irons forming at the outside (and
inside) of the membrane glass tip of the pH probe when the membrane comes into contact
with solution. The source impedance of a pH probe is very high because the thin glass bulb
has a large resistance that is typically in the range of 10 MΩ to 1000 MΩ. Whatever

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measurement circuit connect to the probe requires to be high-impedance in order to
minimise the loading effect of the circuit.

Hardware - The pH sensor board explained


The pH sensor board that I bought came without any user guide, schematic or example
code. I asked the small Chinese vendor for information but in vain. I decided to "reverse-
engineering" the schematic diagram but eventually I find the schematic diagram at the
attachment of this Arduino forum discussion. The pH sensor board can be divided into 3
different sections based on its functionality. I colour the three key sections with different
color for discussion here.

pH sensor board functional highlights

pH Measurement Circuit

The light green section with the TLC4502 high-impedance operation amplifier basically
consists of a voltage divider and a unity-gain amplifier. The pH output(Po) provided an

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analog output for pH measurement. As pH probe swing between positive and negative
voltage, and since TLC4502 is operate with single power source, half of the TLC4502 is
used as a voltage divider to provide a reference voltage of 2.5v to "float" the pH probe input
so that the output of Po will be +/-2.5v based on pH value. A potentiometer RV1 is used for
calibration purpose that I will further discuss later. This part of the circuit is well-designed
and it is all it needed for measuring the pH value. The other parts of the board in my
opinion are not well designed and sort of in the category of "nice-to-have" and not essential.

pH Threshold Detection Circuit

The yellow section provides a pH threshold detection/notification circuit. For example, you
could adjust the potentiometer RV2 so that when pH level reach a threshold level (e.g. say
7.5), the RED LED D1 will be turned on (Digital output Do changed from high to low).
Alternatively, you could use it to detect the lower pH level threshold, say, when pH value is
below 5.5, the RED LED will be turned off and Do changes from low to high. But you can't
set both lower and upper thresholds with this circuit. In my opinion, it will be easier to just
use software solution than this hardware solution for threshold detection.

Temperature Reading Circuit

The light blue/cyan section of the board consists of 1 and a half LM358 OpAmp, and
provides an analog reading at To. U2B of LM358 acts as a not so accurate voltage divider
and provides a voltage reference of 2.5v to a Wheatstone bridge that consists of R13 - R15
and a thermistor TH1. The U3A behave as an differential OpAmp, the output is then pass
through a low-pass filter and further amplified by a non-inverting OpAmp U3B. This entire
circuit has nothing to do with pH measurement, at least not directly. I will talk about this
toward the end of this article.

The sole reason for measuring temperature in the context of measuring pH value is because
that pH curve slope changes when temperature change between 0 to 100 degree Celsius. It
is therefore important to measure the temperature of the solution, and add temperature
compensation factor into the pH calculation.

One thing interesting is that all the manufacturers for this board design that I saw in the
market had the thermistor solder on the board instead of having a water-proof thermistor

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probe like the one that I described in my my previous post. By soldering thermistor on-
board, that means the thermistor is measuring ambience temperature near the board instead
of the temperature of the solution where pH was measured, this simply doesn't make sense.
This makes me think that all those Chinese manufacturers are simply copying the design
from a circuit diagram or reverse-engineering without understanding the purpose of having
the thermistor for temperature measurement in the context of pH measurement application.

Now I studied and understand the circuit diagram, it is time to calibrate the pH sensor and
write some code for measuring the pH value!

How to calibrate the pH sensor?


As discussed previously that by design the pH probe oscillates between negative and
positive values. When the pH reading is at 7.0, the pH output is offset by 2.5v so that both
negative and positive values generated by the pH probe can be represented as positive
values in full range, this means that when pH is at 0, the Po would be at 0v, and when pH is
at 14, the Po would be at 5v.

In order to make sure that when pH is at 7.0, we can calibrate the reading to make sure that
Po will be at 2.5v by disconnecting the probe from the circuit and short-circuiting the inner
pin of the BNC connector with the outer BNC ring. With a multimeter measure the value of
Po pin and adjust the potentiometer to be 2.5V. Don't worry if you don't have a multimeter,
you can write an Arduino sketch to read the analog input by connecting the Po to analog
input A0 of the Arduino.

ph_calibrate.ino

#include <Arduino.h>
const int adcPin = A0;

void setup() {
Serial.begin(115200);
}

void loop() {
int adcValue = analogRead(adcPin);
float phVoltage = (float)adcValue * 5.0 / 1024;

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Serial.print("ADC = "); Serial.print(adcValue);
Serial.print("; Po = "); Serial.println(phVoltage, 3);
delay(1000);
}

Connect Po to Aanalog input A0 on Arduino, and G to Arduino GND. Run the Arduino
sketch, and open the Serial Monitor of Arduino IDE to observe the reading, slowly adjust
the potentiometer RV1 (the one near the BNC connector on the board) until the Po reading
equal to 2.50v.

This is assuming that all the pH probe are equal and will produce exactly 0v at pH reading
of 7.0, but in reality all probes are slightly different from each other, especially for
consumer-grade pH probe. Temperature also affect the reading of pH sensor slightly, so the
better way is to use a pH buffer solution of pH=7.0 to calibrate the probe. All the buffer
solution will have the temperature compensation information on its package that you could
factor-in for your calibration.

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pH buffer solution for calibration

pH buffer packages for calibration purpose available in liquid form or in


powders form, liquid pack is easy to use but powders pack is good for storage.

These solutions are sold in different values but the most common are pH 4.01, pH
6.86 and pH 9.18.

pH values are relatively linear over a certain range (between ph 2 to ph 10), we need two
calibration points to determine the linear line, and then derives the slope of the line so that
we could calculate any pH value with a given voltage output (see Figure 2 chart above).
What value of pH buffer to use for this second calibration depends on your application, if
your application is for measuring acidic solution, use buffer solution for ph=4.01 for the
second calibration; buf if your application is mostly for measuing basic/alkanine solution,
use buffer solution of ph=9.18 for the second calibration. In my case, as hydroponic for
vegetable grow tends to be slightly acidic with ph ranging between 5.5 - 6.5, I use ph=4.01
buffer solution for my calibration.

To avoid cross contamination, dip the probe in distill water for a couple of
minites before dipping it in different buffer solutions. For increase the accuracy,

let the probe stay in the buffer solution for a couple of minutes before taking the
reading as the result.

Use the same Arduino sketch to get the voltage reading for pH=4.01, and write down the
voltage value, in my case, the voltage is 3.06 @ pH=4.01. The voltage readings at ph of
4.01 Vph4 and at pH of 7.0 Vph7 allows us to draw a straight line, and we can get the
Voltage change per pH value m as:

m = (ph7 - ph4) / (Vph7 - Vph4) /


m = (7 - 4.01) / (2.5 - 3.05)
m = -5.436

So the pH value at any voltage reading at Po can be derived with this formula:

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pH = pH7 - (Vph7 - Po) * m

i.e.

pH = 7 - (2.5 - Po) * m

Measure pH value
With the formula, we can create the Arduino sketch to measure the pH value based on the
voltage reading at the Po.

#include <Arduino.h>
const int adcPin = A0;

// calculate your own m using ph_calibrate.ino


// When using the buffer solution of pH4 for calibration, m can be derived as:
// m = (pH7 - pH4) / (Vph7 - Vph4)
const float m = -5.436;

void setup() {
Serial.begin(115200);
}

void loop() {
float Po = analogRead(adcPin) * 5.0 / 1024;
float phValue = 7 - (2.5 - Po) * m;
Serial.print("ph value = "); Serial.println(phValue);
delay(5000);
}

How about Temperature Measurement?


As I mentioned before it doesn't make sense to measure the ambience temperature near the
PCB, so the first thing I did is de-solder the on-board thermistor and replace it with one of
those water-prove thermistors.

A Wheatstone Bridge circuit is nothing more than two simple series-parallel arrangements
of resistances connected between a reference voltage supply and ground producing zero

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voltage difference between the two parallel branches when balanced. When one of the arm
of the resistance arrangements consists of a thermistor, its resistance changes as temperature
changed, causing the imbalance of two resistance arms and a voltage difference developed
between the two parallel branches in according to the change of the thermistor resistance
which is directly related to the change of the temperature.

Specifically to this circuit, the voltage reference is provided by U2B which formed a
voltage divider and produce a reference voltage (let's called it Vref) of 2.5V at pin 7 of
U2B. According to the characteristics of thermistor, the thermistor will have a resistance of
10k-ohms at temperature of 25 degree Celsius. The Wheatstone Bridge will be balanced and
the output voltage Vd of the Wheatstone Bridge at the terminals of resistors R16 and R18
will be zero and will swing above and below 0 volt when temperature changes. The Vd is
then amplified by U3A which seems to be a differential amplifier, the U3B is a typical non-
inverting amplifier. As I'm not quite sure about the gain of U3A so I decided to ask at
Electrical Engineering StackExchange, and I got my questions answered within an hour.
The circuit has a total gain of 14.33 when the thermistor is at 10k (i.e. when temperature is
at 25 degree Celsius). However, the gain of U3A will change when the thermistor resistance
change, obviously this is not a very good design.

I also got confirmed my suspicion that there is a missing 20k resistor between between pin
3 of U3A and ground on the circuit diagram, interestingly the circuit board is designed to
have this resistor, but where the resistor is supposed to be is left empty (why?). Further
inspect the circuit I noticed that the R12 on the board is actually having a value of 51.1k
instead of 100k as shown in the circuit diagram. So the over gain will be 1.33+5.11+1=7.44.

We can derive the Vd based on the measured voltage of To, and further derive the value of
resistance of TH1 at the temperature where To is measured:

Vd = To / 7.44

Vd = Vref * (R14 / (R14 + R15)) - Vref * (R13 / (R13 + TH1))

Absolute temperature T based on Steinhart–Hart equation for thermistor calculation can


then be derived from:

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T = 1 / (1/To + 1/B * ln(TH1/Ro))

Where:
T is the absolute temperature to be measured in Kelvin;
To is the reference temperature in Kelvin at 25 degree Celsius;
Ro is the thermistor resistance at To;
B is Beta or B parameter = 3950, provided by manufacturer in their specification.

In theory, the primary benefit of Wheatstone Bridge circuit is its ability to provide
extremely accurate measurements in contrast with a simple voltage divider, as a voltage
divider is often affected by the loading impedance of the measuring circuit. In actual
application, the accuracy of the Wheatstone Bridge is highly depend on the precision of the
resistors used to form the Wheatstone Bridge, the precision of voltage reference as well as
the circuit that connected to the Wheatstone Bridge. Although I figured out the formula on
how to measure the temperature, I did not write the code to calculate the temperature, as the
gain of U3A will vary as the value of the thermistor varies in according to the temperature.
This make the reading result almost unpredictable and I will probably not use this circuit for
measuring the water temperature without further modifying the design.

In Summary
Overall, this pH sensor board has a good pH measurement circuit design, the rest parts of
the circuit are quite useless and a little bit over-engineered. By eliminating the bad part of
the circuit design and kept the good part, it could be simpler and maybe slightly cheaper
than current design for a pH sensor board.

Related topic:
A review on Seeed Studio pH and EC sensor kits - Part 1(PH)".

A review on Seeed Studio pH and EC sensor kits - Part 2(EC).

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25 comments by readers

1. Huysonyoung Akihabara

February 20, 2020 at 11:30 pm

Dear Sir!
It’s really helpful topic. Thank you so much for your sharing. I have been making 1 pH
meter kit since sep-2019 up to now, so I have 1 problem;

I tested with pH7.01 buffer solution, it show me pH = 7.04 at 2.51V; and with pH4.01
buffer solution I got pH = 3.98 at 3.02V.

Now I take 1 liter waste water sample from the collection pit (Wastewater system) then
tested, it displayed pH = 7.62 at 2.49V ….. but I droped the pH probe to test directly
with waste water treatment system then it showed pH = – 6.68 at 4.83V.

Can you explain for me why the “Po” voltage out so high up from 2.49V to 4.83V with
the same water sample?

Thank you so much,

Reply

Henry Cheung
February 21, 2020 at 2:42 pm

I don’t know what caused it, but ph=-6.68 at 4.83v is basically out of the linear
range that the probe could accurately measured, or your probe is not
connected. Also, don’t measure pH on running flow as the value will not be
accurate, and if you have a TDS probe, put it away from pH probe.

Reply

2. John Smith

June 1, 2020 at 11:05 am

Thanks you for the nice article. I would like to add the following.
When the pH sensor module is used with a micro controller like Arduino, calculations

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and calibrations can be simplified by eliminating the voltage calculation. When
calibrating with 7.0 pH solution, float phVoltage = (float)adcValue * 5.0
/ 1024 = 2.5 only if adcValue = 512 so RV1 can be tuned to that.
The slope

m = (ph7 - ph4) / (adc7Value - adc4Value)

can be used in equation

pH = pH7 - (adc7Value - adcValue) * m = 7 - (512 - adcValue) * m

I think voltage calculation is useful when someone designs a circuit without using
software and in which case, the signal from ‘Do’ can be used to trigger a device like a
relay to turn something on/off. Depending on the circuit, active-high or active-low relay
can be used.

Reply

Henry Cheung
June 2, 2020 at 11:03 am

Thanks for the comment.

On ‘Do’, it has Hysteresis effect, meaning if you expect it to trigger something


when a value is reach to a certain point, it does not necessary will trigger at the
same point when the the value falling back. So personally, I prefer to use
software solution than the ‘Do’.

Reply

1. John Smith

June 3, 2020 at 2:09 pm

I too prefer the software approach.


Many of these boards are based on expired patents, that’s why they
are ‘low-cost’. Which means they are old and back in the days,

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software were not widely used. Most circuits were designed and run
based on hardware. I could think of a few applications that might
utilize the function. Of course, accuracy can be achieved, not at the
speed we are accustomed to but enough to satisfy the needs.

Reply

3. dan

June 18, 2020 at 6:16 am

Hi,
great article.
The ph changes with temperature. how would we apply temp compensation to the ph
readings.

Thanks

Reply

Henry Cheung
June 21, 2020 at 12:40 pm

The PH variation due to temperature is less significant than EC measurement,


for example, ph of 4.00 at 25 degree C will be around 4.01 @30 C and
increase by 0.01 for approx every 5 degrees temperature change, but it remains
at about 4.00 in the range between 10 – 25 C. So I will simply ignore the
temperature factor in ph measurement unless you measuring ph about 30
degree C or below 10 degree C. I won’t trust the temperature measurement
circuit for this particular board for the reason that I mentioned in my article. If
you really want to have temperature measurement, get a water-proof
DS18B20.

Reply

1. Hunter Lu

July 26, 2020 at 7:26 pm

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Hi, there

Check out below linked pdf file that gives a formular on how to apply temp
compensation.
https://www.hach.com/quick.search-download.search.jsa?keywords=pH

Reply

4. Chan

June 22, 2020 at 3:18 am

Hi Henry,
I am not an expert but I want to build a smart PH and EC sensor which helps me
regulate the water nutrients and PH levels for an indoor hydroponics system.
Can you guide me on an economical way to achieve this?
Regards
Chan

Reply

5. Hunter Lu

July 26, 2020 at 7:22 pm

Hi, There

Thanks for the post and discussion, I too duplicated the whole circuit for PH
measurement, as well as adding water-proofing DS18B20 and EC sensor on PCB, in
which I planned to build an eco measuring system for in door plant growing
measurement. Everything worked fine but I got two problems:
1. Big variations of PH value output measured alone without DS18B20 and EC sensor,
not sure why, since I don’t have oscillator, couldn’t identify where the variation coming
from, maybe you could help with it.
2. All 3 sensors putting together, DS18B20 and EC sensors working fine, but PH sensor
got significant interference by DS18B20 and EC sensor, which seems to be
reasonable(each of them emitted potential into solution with impact the micro-voltage
level PH Sensor. I will have to isolate/disconnect DS18B20 and EC sensor through
Arduino software and hardware switch circuit.

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The calibration of PH sensor went well, which I used standard buffer resolution, output
the data exactly as expected, but when I put it into a glass with tap water, it gave big
variation, as I mentioned above…

Would appreciate if anyone could help me out.

Reply

Henry Cheung
July 26, 2020 at 8:29 pm

The things that I could think of 1) PH sensor doesn’t work well with running
water or in a current stream. 2) Which MCU you are using? Arduino? I would
suggest that you add a 10uF and 100nF capacitors in parallel at PH sensor
board’s Vcc and Ground. 3) If you are using a PH sensor board other than this
design, make sure the output impedance of the board that feed into ADC of
Arduino is less than 10k ohm, you can read about my recent experience on
evaluation Seeed Studio’s pH sensor board for the problem that I encountered.

I don’t have any issue of having DS18B20 temperature sensor together with
PH sensor, actually in my setup, my PH sensor is right next to the DS18B20
with less than 1cm separation, DS18B20 should stay away from EC sensor as
EC sensor generated a magnetic/electrode field around its tip.

Reply

6. Hunter Lu

July 26, 2020 at 10:59 pm

Thanks for the quick response, Henry.

In my view, DS18B20 and EC sensor once power on having direct impact to PH sensor.
As confirmed by your comment, I can understand the EC sensor having impact to PH
sensor, DS18B20 shouldn’t have impact to PH sensor, I don’t understand this part, need
to figure out. Another alternative is to use water-proof thermal resistor B 3950 with
screwnut for easy installation.

I am actually making a board with all components on including PH, EC sensor circuits,
with ATMEGA328P MCU simulating as Arduino Nano. To add 10uF and 100nF to

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VCC of the Amplifier CD4052 is agood idea, somehow I missed it. The layout needs to
be improve to have the CD4052 closer to PH BNC slot.

I haven’t experienced the ADC issue with impedence problem, will check out your blog
later for reference.

Great comments, thanks Henry.

Reply

7. mohamad

October 17, 2020 at 1:46 pm

I mentioned in my research that the temperature sensor is being removed and I installed
another sensor
Can the sensor be left in place and the measured temperature adjusted?
What is the effect of temperature on the pH value?

Reply

Henry Cheung
October 18, 2020 at 8:34 am

On pH dependency on temperature, you should consult your probe


manufacturer’s user guide. In general, for instance at 0 °C the pH of pure water
is about 7.47. At 25 °C it is 7.00, and at 100 °C it is 6.14. For practical
application, it depend on where is your region, I lives in tropical region, and
see my answer to question 3 above.

Reply

8. Gennadiy

April 11, 2021 at 4:52 am

Hi Henry!
First of all, i want to say that its very very useful information – really apreciate it.
I making final year project – automatic control system for hydroponics.
As you wrote at the beginning of the post, there is very little – almost none information

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about how to calibrate properly these sensors. Your post is very informative, but still i
couldn’t figure out the point about temperature compensation.
Can you please clearify it? From what i gave understood, is that you didn’t wrote any
code for temp. compensation due to the fact that the built in thermistor is useless-
beacuase it measures ambient temp. (not in water).
I do want to make precise calibration on my EC Sensor, and i got submersible
DS18B20 sensor.
Should i left the T1 (Temperature out) pin on the EC sensor unconnected? Or if i don’t
want to use it – connect to GND?
Any help is appreciated.

Reply

Henry Cheung
April 11, 2021 at 8:14 pm

I gave a few reasons on why I didn’t do temperature compensation on pH


measurements in the comments, you can scroll up and read it. For the EC, I’m
not sure what EC sensor you are using, so I can’t really comment on how it
should be connected, in general, if you don’t use it, leave it open should be
fine. You can also read my another post which uses a water-proof DS18B20
with an EC sensor.

Reply

9. Steve

April 26, 2021 at 2:40 pm

Hi Henry,
I found your article really very interesting.
I followed all the steps in your article, I realized that when I short the BNC signal to
make the 2.5 volt adjustment, the maximum range I can get by adjusting the trimmer is
2.4- 4.99 Volts. My board does not go below 2.4 volts.
Do you think it is defective?

Reply

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1. Jean-Philippe

May 19, 2021 at 4:38 am

Hello,
I have the same issue while calibrating the minimum I can get it 2.6 volts, I
can’t event reach 2.5…
For me the range is 2.6-4.99

Reply

1. Dave

October 23, 2021 at 9:33 pm

You can do what i did, while calibrating the minimun I only was able
to get 2.59V, to be able to get get proper readings of pH value i just
get left the bnc potentiometer at the minimum possible and got the
readings of the powder solutions: 6.86 and 4.01.
And with this using the equation y = ax+b i could get the correct
values of pH.
Ex:
pH = a*xV + b
4.01 = a*(3.04)+b
6.86 = a*(2.54)+b
Then i get the result y = -5.7*21.338 and thats it.

Reply

2. Jon Wong

October 4, 2021 at 9:14 am

Hi,
I have the same problem! When I shortened the BNC to make the 2.5 volt
adjustment, the ADC value only goes down to 831 and not 512? I can’t adjust
RV1 further to get to 2.5 volts! Do you think the board is defective? Thanks
for your help!

Reply

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0. Saitama

August 26, 2021 at 9:51 am

Hi, when trying to calibrate the sensor I get an incorrect voltage from PO when trying
to adjust it with the (BOATER 3296) potentiometer. I try to read it from the PO pin but
it just reads ADC = 872; Po = 4.262V. The actual readings can be measured at the
external part of the BNC probe or at the potentiometer. They show the correct voltage
that I’ve tuned to 2.5V for the 7 Ph baseline. Is this a fault with the BNC interface?

I am running this code to measure the voltage at PO, the potentiometer and the BNC
connector

#include
const int adcPin = A0;

void setup() {
Serial.begin(115200);
}

void loop() {
int adcValue = analogRead(adcPin);
float phVoltage = (float)adcValue * 5.0 / 1023;
Serial.print(“ADC = “); Serial.print(adcValue);
Serial.print(“; Po = “); Serial.println(phVoltage);
delay(1000);

Reply

1. JM

October 15, 2022 at 3:11 am

Conseguiste que te funcionara? Que hiciste al respecto? Conclusion?

Reply

1. dekip

Convert web pages and HTML files to PDF in your applications with the Pdfcrowd HTML to PDF API Printed with Pdfcrowd.com
November 5, 2021 at 7:05 pm

As far as I can see, there are no data of C values of the schematic. Did any of
you know what the values are?

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1. vehan

October 17, 2022 at 9:08 pm

Did you ever get a response to this? I am also looking for this

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2. MikeK

September 28, 2022 at 1:27 am

You made the post i was looking for. Its perfect. Thank you!!!

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