University of Arkansas, United States Department of Agriculture, and County Governments Cooperating

Contents

Selective Breeding for Better Queens 6

Biology of Bee Breeding 6

The Starter Hive 7

Grafting Bee Larvae 8

Finisher Hives 10

Mating Nucs 11

Caging Queens 12

Banking Queens 12

Shipping Queens 13

Record Keeping 13

Cloake Board Method 13

Introducing Queens 14

About the Authors

Jon Zawislak is the apiculture instructor with the Entomology Department, University of Arkansas Division of
Agriculture in Little Rock, Arkansas. David Burns is a queen breeder and owner of Long Lane Honey Farm in
Fairmount, Illinois (www.honeybeesonline.com). Both authors are Master Beekeepers certified through the
Eastern Apicultural Society.
Photo Credits
Cover photo © Alex Wild, used by permission (www.alexanderwild.com). Figures 1, 5, 6, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15,
16, 17, 18, 19 by Jon Zawislak. Figures 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 9 11, 12 by David Burns.
Raising Quality
Queen Bees
Jon Zawislak and David Burns
The queen honey bee is
fundamental to a colony’s
survival and function. She
is the only member of the
hive capable of producing
more female offspring to
keep the colony going.
The chemical pheromones
produced by a queen bee
impart a unique identity
to each colony and its
members. The presence of
these pheromones also
keeps the colony cohesive
and orderly.
A queen is the repository of
a colony’s heritable genetic
traits. These genetics
influence many aspects of
colony behaviors, such as
their defensiveness,
parasite tolerance and
disease resistance, rate of
population growth, and
the efficiency of winter
food consumption. The
importance of a quality
queen bee cannot be over­
emphasized. A colony of
bees with undesirable
traits can be remedied by
requeening. Within six
weeks of replacing a
queen, most of the worker
bees are replaced by the
new queen’s offspring,
and noticeable changes in
temperament and behavior
will be evident.
Beekeepers choose to raise
queens for many reasons.
They can stock their own
hives when queens die or
need replacing. They can
save money by raising their
own queens. By doing so,
beekeepers can have
queens available when
needed, without the Bee colonies raise queens
expense or delay of having naturally. Inducing a colony
queens shipped from to rear queens merely
another producer. Surplus encourages this natural
queens can be sold to phenomenon, subject to the
others in the area who need beekeeper’s conditions and
them, bringing extra schedule. While not diffi­
income to the beekeeper. cult or time consuming, the
particular steps in rearing
Every beekeeper can queen bees must be done on
maintain one or more small a schedule that matches the
nucs with a few frames natural development cycle
holding a laying queen, just of honey bee queens
in case one is needed. By (Table 1). Queen rearing
selectively raising their cannot be sped up or slowed
own queens, beekeepers can down for the convenience
take control of the charac­ of the beekeeper. If the
teristics they desire in their schedule is not observed,
own bee stocks. poor-quality queens may
Table 1
The schedule of tasks for rearing queen bees is based on the natural
development cycle of honey bee queens.This process cannot be sped
up, slowed down or altered for the convenience of the beekeeper.
Become familiar with the timing of each step and prepare all equip­
ment, hives and bees to be ready on the appropriate dates. If planning
to rear a large number of queens on a continuous basis, plan ahead so
that mature cells are removed from finisher hives before new grafts are
removed from the star ter. Prepare sufficient mating nucs before virgin
queens emerge. Keep accurate records of each step in the process.
Day 1 breeder queen lays eggs
Day 3 eggs hatch
Day 4 graft larvae; place grafts into starter hive
Day 5 move grafts to finisher hive
Day 8-9 queen cells sealed
Day 12-14 move queen cells to mating nucs
Day 16 adult queens emerge from cells
Day 21 virgin queens begin nuptial flights
Day 30 mated queen laying eggs
Day 32 evaluate new queen’s brood pattern
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result, or the beekeeper may
find that a single early-emerging
queen has destroyed several weeks
of effort.
Once the basic elements of the
queen-rearing process are under­
stood, practically any beekeeper can
raise surplus queens. Many tech­
niques have been developed to raise
queens, and the process can be indi­
vidualized to overcome any chal­
lenges. While basic knowledge of
honey bee biology is fundamental,
advanced beekeeping experience is
not necessary. However, as with
most activities, knowledge and
experience make queen rearing
easier and more enjoyable.
Selective
Breeding for
Better Queens
Any beekeeper can produce new
queens, and most do it accidently.
But a queen breeder produces new
queens with the goal of maintaining
and improving high quality stocks.
Many honey bee behaviors are
influenced by heritable genetic traits.
As the mother of the entire colony,
the qualities of a particular queen are
expressed in every one of her off­
spring. These traits can have pro­
found effects on the behavior and
health of the whole colony:
Temperament: The reaction of a
colony when it is approached,
opened or otherwise disturbed can
be a genetic trait. Africanized bees
are particularly known for their
extremely defensive behavior.
Gentle strains are especially
important when keeping bees in
urban settings.
Mite tolerance: Parasitic mites
are among the greatest problems for
beekeepers. The effectiveness of
current mite treatments is limited,
and their use has had other detrimen­
tal effects on colony health. Breed­
ing bees which are able to remove or
resist parasites without the assis­
tance of beekeepers is an important
step for improving the health of the
beekeeping industry.
Disease resistance: Bees that
exhibit hygienic behaviors are
able to detect and remove diseased
brood at a very early stage of
infection. This behavior greatly
reduces the chance that an entire
colony will become infected with a
contagious pathogen.
Colony population growth:
Some colonies will adjust their
brood rearing to seasonal conditions.
They may increase in size prior to a
nectar flow, ensuring more foragers
to collect nectar. They may also
reduce their population during times
of summer dearth or approaching
winter, which allows them to use
stored food more efficiently. Other
colonies maintain a large population
and brood area despite conditions.
Honey production: Some
colonies of bees will be better
producers of honey than others
in the same apiary. Honey produc­
tion is dependent on outside condi­
tions as well as colony population,
brood production and overall colony
health. Typically, strong, healthy
colonies are better producers of
honey, and therefore, good honey
production often indicates good
overall colony health. As the bee­
keeper works to improve other traits
that support colony health, honey
production should also increase.
A bee breeder should take care to
select only colonies with the most
desirable characteristics from which
to propagate new queens. There is
no perfect bee for all situations or
conditions. Rarely will any single
colony possess all the most desirable
characteristics, but over successive
generations, a beekeeper should
continue to select for preferred traits.
When selecting the breeding stock,
beekeepers must consider their
own criteria regarding which
characteristics are most desirable.
Beekeepers can select one or more
high-quality hives in their own
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apiary to use as breeder stock, or
purchase breeder queens from other
sources. Commercial breeder queens
may be instrumentally inseminated
from selected drone lines to produce
offspring with consistent traits.
These queens may cost several hun­
dred dollars each and are generally
used only to propagate more queens,
which are then open-mated with
local drones.
When selecting for healthy, disease-
and mite-resistant queen lines, bee­
keepers are encouraged to breed
from survivor stock. These are
colonies that have not been treated
with chemical pesticides, but natu­
rally possess traits that allow them to
overwinter successfully on their own
and remain productive.
Regularly treating colonies
with pesticides to get rid of
mites only breeds stronger
mites! At the same time, it pro­
motes the survival of bees that
cannot cope with their natural
enemies. Breeding bees that are able
to combat mites by themselves is
ultimately the best solution for the
beekeeping industry.
Biology of
Bee Breeding
Honey bee colonies consist of three
specialized types of bees. Each
member has its own fundamental
role to play in the production of new
queens. When rearing queen bees,
beekeepers will rely on all three of
these types of bees to carry out their
particular tasks.
The drone is the male bee, whose
essential job is to mate with a virgin
queen outside of the hive. When his
task is complete, he will die immedi­
ately. Drones add little value to a
colony beyond this role, but in terms
of rearing productive queens, their
contribution is crucial.
The workers make up the
majority of the hive and are the
backbone of the colony’s survival
and daily activity. They construct
combs, feed and care for all the
brood and the queen, clean and
guard the hive, regulate the nest
temperature, forage for all the
hive’s needed resources (nectar,
pollen, water and propolis), and
store surplus food to ensure the
colony’s future.
The queen bee is the key to the
continuation of the colony. She is
the sole repository of the colony’s
genes: her own and those of the
drones with which she has mated. A
queen honey bee stores the millions
of spermatozoa from multiple
drones in a special organ within her
abdomen called the spermatheca.
These sperm remain alive and
viable for several years, allowing
her to fertilize eggs as they are
deposited. A healthy queen is capa­
ble of laying 1,000 to 3,000 eggs
per day. In addition to eggs, she
constantly produces chemical
pheromones that regulate hive
behaviors. Her attendant workers,
known as her court or retinue, feed
and groom her throughout the day
so that she can focus her attention
on egg production to maintain the
colony’s population. Through their
association with their queen and
their interactions with other work­
ers, these attendants distribute her
pheromones throughout the hive.
While a healthy queen bee can live
for several years, most workers live
for little more than a month during
the warm foraging season. Therefore
a colony of honey bees must have a
laying queen, or their population
will dwindle within a few weeks. A
colony perpetually monitors the per­
formance of its queen. If she is
killed or removed, they will quickly
try to raise another queen from a
suitable larva. If the queen begins to
perform poorly, perhaps laying only
unfertilized drone eggs, then she will
be superseded by a new queen. A
colony will also rear multiple queen
larvae when they become over­
crowded and are preparing to
swarm. The old queen will leave
with more than half of the colony’s
workers just prior to a new virgin
queen emerging from her cell.
New queens are reared from young
female bee larvae. There is no fun­
damental difference in any female
bee larvae when they are small.
Each has the potential to become
either a worker or a new queen. All
young bees are initially fed a rich
diet of nutritious jelly by the work­
ers. Around the third day of their
larval stage, most larvae are changed
to a diet called bee bread, a mixture
of pollen and honey. When the
larvae are switched to this diet, they
develop into worker bees (drones are
also fed this mixed diet, but they
will always be drones). If a female
larva is continuously fed a diet of
royal jelly throughout its larval
stage, however, it will develop into a
queen bee.
Once sealed drone cells are apparent
in the hive, a beekeeper can begin
rearing queen bees. Drones are sexu­
ally mature after 14 days. Therefore,
a sufficient number of mature drones
should be available by the time
newly produced queens are ready to
mate. Queens can be reared into the
fall as long as drones are still present
in the hives. Once drones have been
expelled from the hives for winter,
queen rearing should not be
attempted. Queenless colonies will
not expel drones, but sufficient
drones for good mating will be
extremely limited in the fall.
Beekeepers should ensure that all
hives in their operation are well
supplied with both pollen and
honey (or protein patties and syrup)
during times of dearth and drought.
Small colonies, such as mating nucs,
can quickly run short of food if
their bee populations are minimal.
In order to make hives produce new
queens, beekeepers must try to
mimic the conditions under which
honey bees naturally begin raising
their own queens. The best queens
are raised by hives that are currently
queenless, contain many young bees
capable of producing royal jelly and
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beeswax, and have a surplus of
pollen and honey stored in the
hive. The beekeeper creates these
conditions in a starter hive.
The Starter
Hive
The easiest way to create the
essential conditions for raising
queens is to prepare a starter hive.
An ordinary five-frame nuc works
very well as a cell starter. Prepare
the starter colony several hours
before introducing the larvae that
will be reared as queens. A mini­
mum of 2 hours is necessary for
the bees in this starter colony to
observe that they are queenless (due
to the significant drop in the level
of queen pheromones in their
bodies). Do not prepare more than
24 hours ahead of time.
A well-prepared starter hive
is among the most important
factors in rearing high-quality
queens. This hive should be very
crowded with mostly young, healthy,
well-fed workers. The nurse bees
which produce the most royal jelly
for the queen grafts are between 8­
12 days old. They are usually found
on combs of open brood.
One of the frames in the starter hive
is the cell bar frame, which holds
larvae that the beekeeper has
selected to be reared as queens. Two
frames in the starter hive should be
full of honey or nectar. At least one
frame should contain a large amount
of pollen or bee bread. This food is
important for the young bees that
will populate this hive. They will
need ample protein to produce the
necessarily large amount of royal
jelly that queen larvae require. The
honey will be used for energy and to
secrete the wax that they will use to
build the queen cells. These frames
can all be taken from a single hive,
or gathered from several hives. The
final frame can contain additional
food, or can be an empty drawn
comb. Arrange the combs as in the
diagram (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Arrange the frames of the
starter hive so that the grafted larvae are
in the center, surrounded with food for
the workers.
No combs in the starter hive should
contain eggs or open brood. If any
eggs or young larvae are present, the
bees may try to rear them as queens,
rather than the larvae selected by the
beekeeper. Older larvae cannot be
reared as queens, but will be fed and
tended by the workers in the starter
hive and will therefore compete
with the selected grafts for limited
resources. Care must be taken to
ensure that no queen bee is acci­
dently transferred to the starter hive.
Workers will not start queen cells in
the presence of another queen.
The starter hive should be crowded
with many young workers. These
workers can all come from a single
hive, or from multiple hives. Nurse
bees generally will not fight with
those from other colonies in the
spring. Begin by placing only two
combs in the starter hive (against the
outside walls). Gently shake or
brush the bees from combs of open
brood into the space between. Care­
fully add the other two combs after
the bees. The cell bar frame will be
added later; leave a gap in the center
for now. This hive should be well
ventilated with screen, but all flight
entrances should be closed com­
pletely. Keep the starter hive in a
cool, shaded location. A wet sponge
placed against the screen can assist
the bees in keeping cool.
Grafting Bee
Larvae
Honey bees rear new queens from
young larvae naturally. When a
colony becomes queenless or is per­
ceived to have a poorly performing
queen, they will select larvae from
among their brood and provision
them abundantly with royal jelly.
Their cells will be elongated into
vertical queen cells. When preparing
to swarm, the queen deposits eggs in
shallow vertical queen cups, often
along the bottom edges of combs.
The bees recognize that the larvae in
these vertical cells are meant to
become queens and will treat them
accordingly. When inducing the
colony to rear queens, the beekeeper
presents selected larvae to the
queenless starter colony in vertical
cups as well. The bees recognize this
cue and will automatically begin to
rear them as queens.
Various techniques have been
developed to select specific larvae
and present them to a colony of bees
to become new queens. These meth­
ods can be divided into grafting and
non-grafting techniques. Grafting
larvae is the standard method for
producing large numbers of queens,
but can be easily done by the hobby­
ist who desires to raise only a few
queens at a time. When grafting,
larvae are removed from the comb
with a small tool and transferred to
individual queen cups.
Some beekeepers are intimidated by
the idea of handling delicate larvae,
and so many other meth­
ods have been developed
to avoid this step. These
techniques may involve
cutting or otherwise
manipulating combs in
which the queen has
already deposited eggs,
or confining the queen in
a space where she has no
choice but to lay eggs in
provided cups. By con­ Figure 2. There are many types of grafting tools.
trast, grafting larvae is Beekeepers should use the one that is most comfortable
not difficult, requires few and best fits their technique.
-8­
tools, and needs little preparation.
With minimal practice, most anyone
can develop the skills to graft queens
within a short time.
This manual describes a grafting
technique (sometimes called the
Doolittle method). For alternative
methods of queen rearing (Alley,
Hopkins, Miller, Jenter, etc.) consult
other sources for specific instruc­
tions. Regardless of which method is
used to initially select the larvae, the
procedures for preparing starter and
finisher hives are the same. Also, the
timing of steps in queen-rearing
procedures remains the same.
Grafting larva requires very little
specialized equipment. All items can
be purchased from beekeeping sup­
pliers, modified from existing bee­
keeping equipment, or created from
scratch. Before beginning grafting,
prepare the workspace by arranging
all tools and necessary equipment
within easy reach.
A grafting tool (Figure 2) is used
to pick up an individual larva from a
comb and transfer it to a queen cell
cup. A variety of styles are available
for purchase. Use the grafting tool
that best fits your needs and your
technique for handling larvae. The
authors prefer the inexpensive
spring-loaded Chinese grafting tool.
Queen cell cups (Figure 3) hold
the larvae in a vertical orientation in
the starter hive, which encourages
the worker bees to rear them into
new queens. Cups made from plas­
tic, wood or wax may be purchased.
 wooden blocks hive. Do not jar the frame or
to secure the otherwise shake the bees
cell bar. Each from it; this may dislodge or
cell bar needs a injure the larvae.
minimum of
1¾" of space Place the frame on a table, with the
Figure 3. Queen cell cups are mounted on a cell bar. Plastic cups beneath it for top bar toward you. The cells in a
(left) are available from most equipment suppliers.Wax cups (right) are the bees to comb are naturally angled slightly
simple to make. Bees will rear larvae placed in either type. finish the cells upward, so elevating the bottom bar
and to allow the beekeeper to of the frame by a few inches, using a
remove them easily. block of wood or other support, will
allow you to see the bottoms of the
Bright lighting is important when cells more easily as you work.
selecting appropriate larvae. A Larvae in open brood cells are very
headlamp or a desk lamp that can susceptible to drying out when
be easily moved and adjusted is removed from the hive. Place a wet
useful for hands-free operation, but towel under the frame and another
a handheld flashlight is also effec­ on top to provide humidity for the
tive to illuminate the bottoms of the larvae while you work (Figure 4).
cells. Good eyesight is necessary
for grafting. Some beekeepers may Choose only larvae about the same
wish to purchase an inexpensive size as an egg, curved slightly into
pair of reading glasses or other a “comma” shape and lying in their
Figure 4. Good lighting is essential for magnification aid. jelly (Figure 5). Approaching each
selecting the best larvae. A bright flashlight larva from the back of the curve,
can be useful for directly illuminating cells. When the workspace is ready, select rather than the ends, is the easiest
Some may find that magnification is neces­ a frame of brood from the breeder way to get the tool beneath it. When
sary to remove individual larvae from the queen’s hive. A darker frame (black picking up a bee larva, care must be
comb and place them in cell cups.
plastic foundation or older wax taken to scoop up some royal jelly
Wax cups can easily be made using comb) is preferable because the con­ with it. The tool should not actually
a ³/8" diameter wooden dowel with a trast makes pale-colored larvae touch the larva at all. The flexible
smooth, rounded end. Soak the easier to see. Some beekeepers con­ tip of a Chinese grafting tool slides
dowel in cold water, dip into melted fine their laying queen on a particu­ easily down the side of the cell and
wax several times to build a thick lar comb for a day, to ensure having beneath the larva (Figure 6). Pull
layer, and then twist to remove the brood of a known and uniform age. the tool straight up; the larva and
cup when cool. Different types or Usually, however, any frame with jelly will stick to it. Place the tip of
colors of cups can be useful to keep both eggs and open brood should the tool against the bottom of the
track of grafts reared from different contain more than a sufficient queen cell cup and depress the
breeder colonies. number of acceptable larvae. When spring button on the back of the
removing the frame from the colony, tool. The plunger will gently push
The queen cell cups are attached to gently brush all the bees into the the larva and jelly into the cell as
the cell bar. the tongue retracts. Other types of
Some plastic cups grafting tools will require slightly
are designed to fit different techniques to transfer the
snugly into a
standard grooved
bottom bar (short­
ened to fit within
the frame). Wax
and wooden cells
can be secured to
the bar with
melted wax or
propolis. A cell Figure 5. Only the youngest (smallest) larvae are suitable for Figure 6. Use a grafting tool to lift out the
grafting. Choose larvae that are about the same size as an egg larva along with some royal jelly.The tool
bar frame is a (left). A suitable larva should be curled slightly, resting in a small never actually touches the delicate larva,
standard bee hive pool of royal jelly in the bottom of its cell (center).The diet fed to which floats on top of the sticky jelly.
frame modified an older larva (right) starting at day 3 stimulates its development Gently place the larva into the center of
with small into a worker, and it cannot be reared as a queen. the queen cell cup without flipping it over.

-9­
larvae. Position the larva in the
center of the cell. Young larvae are
naturally lying on one side, breath­
ing through only one set of spira­
cles (breathing holes). If a larva is
flipped over, it may suffocate. Be
sure to keep the larva in the same
orientation as it is transferred.
Some beekeepers choose to
“prime” queen cups with royal jelly
collected from other cells, or with
other substances. This method,
called wet grafting, is both time
consuming and unnecessary. It is
sufficient to transfer larvae to
empty cell cups, or dry grafting,
with enough jelly to sustain them
and keep them from drying out. The
diet fed to developing queens is dif­
ferent than that fed to workers. As
soon as the bees in the starter hive
discover the larvae, they will begin
to feed them appropriately.
After several larvae have been
transferred, lay a damp cloth or
paper towel across the tops of the
filled queen cell cups to keep the
grafts moist. While these larvae are
not very sensitive to changes in tem­
perature, they are extremely sensi­
tive to low humidity. After all grafts
have been made, insert the cell bars
into the cell bar frame. If necessary,
use a small bit of wax or propolis to
secure the cell bar in place. Grafted
larvae and jelly will naturally
adhere to the insides of the cups, but
turn the cell bar frame over gently
and do not jar the frame as it is
being moved. Place the cell bar
frame into the center of the starter
hive for 24-36 hours (Figure 7).
Figure 7. Place the frame of grafted larvae
into the center of the starter hive for
24-36 hours.
Finisher so that the nurse bees will have
ready access to more protein. These
Hives bees will need lots of pollen and
Because they are crowded and honey in order to rear the queens.
queenless, bees in a starter hive are
Remove the frame of grafted queen
eager to begin raising new queens cells (Figure 9) from the starter
(Figure 8). However, starter colonies
hive after 24-36 hours and place it
are not apt to finish a large number into the prepared finisher hive
of cells. Their resources are too (Figure 10). There is no need to
limited to continue feeding many shake or brush the nurse bees from
queens. If left in the starter hive, the the grafting frame. These bees are
bees will selectively feed only some queenless and will not fight with
of the larvae, abandoning the others. the bees in the finisher hive. They
For this reason, the beekeeper must will continue to assist in caring for
move the queen grafts to a strong the grafted larvae. The bees in the
hive which can finish rearing them. finisher hive will quickly recognize
A finisher hive contains the new queen cells and begin to provi­
resources and population to care for sion them with an ample supply of
many developing queens at once. royal jelly. Once the new queen
Finishers must be strong and queen- cells have been sealed, another
right and, therefore, will not be frame of grafts can be placed into
inclined to start new queen cells on the same hive to be finished. Do not
their own. However, since the queen give the hive more open grafts than
cells have already been started by they can care for at once.
other bees, those in the finisher hive
will continue feeding them and seal
the cells.
Figure 9. The bees on the cell bar frame
can be added to the finisher hive.They
will continue to care for the grafted
queen larvae.
Figure 8. Bees in the starter hive begin
elongating the queen cups and provision
the cells with large quantities of royal jelly.
Any healthy populous bee colony
with at least two deep hive bodies
and ample food stores can be used as
a finisher hive. To prepare the hive,
be sure the queen is in the lowest
box and place a queen excluder
above her. If not confined below, the
laying queen will quickly find and
destroy all developing queen cells.
The upper hive body should have at
least two frames of open brood to
draw nurse bees above the excluder.
This box should also have one
empty space where the grafts will
go, in the center of the hive between
Figure 10. A finisher hive should be
frames of open brood. Place frames strong, well-fed and queenright. An excluder
containing pollen or bee bread on keeps the queen in the lower box, but
the other side of these brood frames allows workers to access both sections.
- 10 ­
The bees in the starter hive can be
returned to the colony from which
they were taken, may be added to a
weak hive, or may be used to start a
new hive. The beekeeper can take
one of the started queen cells from
the graft frame and press it gently
into an empty portion of comb in the
starter hive. The bees will continue
to rear this single queen, which will
emerge soon, mate, and begin to
head a productive colony. Place the
hive in a suitable location and open
the flight entrance. Add another
comb to the colony to replace the
cell bar frame that was removed.
The new comb may be empty or full
of food, depending on the needs of
the colony.
New queen cells must be
removed within a few days of
the cells being sealed. At the
latest, this should be done by day
14, or 10 days after grafting (see
Table 1). If a new queen emerges
earlier than expected into the
finisher hive, she will seek out and
destroy all other sealed queen cells,
ruining the beekeeper’s efforts.
Cells can be removed directly to
queenless hives, to mating nucs, or
to an incubator. If placed in an
incubator, cells should be kept
upright and caged individually at
92°F with high humidity. Transfer
the virgin queens to mating nucs as
soon as they emerge.
Mating
Nucs
Once queen cells are sealed
(Figure 11) they should be trans­
ferred to mating nucs before they
can emerge. The purpose of a
mating nuc is to provide an
environment for a virgin queen to
emerge, embark on her nuptial
flights and begin laying eggs.
A mating nuc is usually a very small
hive with just enough bees and food
to support itself (Figure 12). Any
size hive can be used to house new
queens, but small nucs are often
used, due to the large number of
hives that are needed by queen
Figure 11. Once the queen cells have
been sealed by the finisher hive, they
should be removed. If a single queen is
allowed to emerge, she will destroy all rival
queens in their cells.
Figure 12. Mating nucs are small hives that
house the new queen while she takes her
nuptial flights and begins to lay eggs. Once
she begins to lay in a good pattern, she can
be marked with the appropriate color.
breeders. Using small colonies also
minimizes losses when queens fail
to return from mating.
Small nuc boxes holding three to
five frames work very well. Many
beekeeping suppliers also offer
various types of mini-nucs or stan­
dard hives divided into three or four
smaller sections with separate
entrances. It will benefit the queen
producer to remain consistent in
terms of equipment size so that
swapping frames and woodenware
will be easier. Deep frames are
recommended over medium or
shallow because the bees can better
regulate their temperature and can
store more food.
Mating nucs must be queenless.
Each should contain at least one or
two frames of open brood covered
with nurse bees, and at least one
frame of honey and pollen if there is
none stored on the brood frames. A
nuc should have some area of empty
- 11 ­
cells where the new queen can begin
laying eggs. More bees can be
shaken in, but they are not always
necessary. Inspect mating nucs regu­
larly for pests. Small queenless
colonies are particularly susceptible
to wax moths and small hive beetles.
After preparing mating nucs, wait
at least 12 hours before introducing
a new queen or queen cell. The bees
in the mating nuc will better accept
and care for the virgin queen if they
recognize their queenless state.
Mating nucs can remain queenless
for up to three weeks at a time
while new queen cells are being
created. During this time they may
try to create their own queens if
open brood is available. Laying
workers may develop if nucs
remain queenless for too long.
Honey bee mating occurs outside the
hive, high in the air. Virgin queens
seek out areas where drones congre­
gate. Daytime temperature must
reach 69°F for mating flights to
occur. Sufficient drones must also be
available to the queen for successful
mating to happen.
Beekeepers may check the hive
between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. and be
unable to find a queen during this
first week because she is out on a
nuptial flight. In this case, remain
patient and check again after 6 p.m.
or early the following day. If no evi­
dence of a queen can be found for
several days, introduce a new one. A
small number of queens do not
return from mating flights.
Drones typically remain within 1.5
miles of their hive. Virgin queens fly
a greater distance to seek mates,
minimizing chances that they will
encounter brothers from their own
hives. Colonies with several combs
of drone foundation can be placed at
distances of one mile from the
mating yard, and in several direc­
tions. This practice, known as drone
flooding, can be done to influence
the mating stock available to virgin
queens. The colonies used as drone
sources should have desirable traits,
be of known lineage, and should not
be genetically related to the breeder
queens. Providing good queens to
neighboring beekeepers is another
way to improve the genetics of
nearby drone sources.
Once a queen has completed her
mating flights, she will soon begin
to lay eggs. It may take from sev­
eral days to a week for her to estab­
lish a good brood pattern. Once a
queen begins laying and her brood
pattern is judged to be adequate,
she can be removed and used to
requeen a failing or queenless hive.
If she is to be offered for sale to
another beekeeper, she can be
caged with several attendant bees
for transportation. If sufficient
hives are not available to house all
queens, they can be banked to
sustain them temporarily.
Caging
Queens
Many types of queen cages are
available, made from wood, plastic
or wire mesh. Cages are used to pro­
tect queens during shipping, separate
them for banking, and to introduce
them into new hives. Queen candy is
used to plug the opening of the cage
(Figure 13). This candy serves as
food for the attendant bees during
shipping. It also slows the release
of the queen into a new colony,
protecting her while the bees accept
her pheromones.
Traditionally queen cage candy has
been made from sugar and honey,
but because spores of American
Figure 13. A queen cage with candy plug is
used to separate and protect queens while
they are banked, during shipping, and when
introducing them into a new hive. Attendant
bees should not be added until the queen is
ready for shipment.
foulbrood can be transmitted in
honey, it is against the law in most
states to ship bees with honey in any
form. Queen candy can be made by
kneading together confectioners’
sugar and light corn syrup until a
firm consistency has been reached. It
should be soft enough to shape with­
out crumbling, but firm enough that
it will hold its shape and not melt in
a warm hive or in the mail.
A mini-marshmallow can be used to
plug the cage temporarily, but these
will soften quickly and should not
be used for shipping. Some bee­
keepers consider that the cornstarch
added to confectioners’ sugar
affects honey bee health and prefer
to make their own by pulverizing
pure granulated sugar in a coffee
grinder or blender.
Banking
Queens
A queen bank (Figure 14) is
prepared similar to a finisher hive:
strong, well fed and queenright. It
also requires a queen excluder to
keep the laying queen away from the
caged queens. The finisher hive can
be used to bank queens as long as no
open queen cells are present. The
hive will not be able to properly care
for numerous open queen cells as
well as adult queens.
Figure 14. Caged queens can be banked for
up to two weeks.Workers will care for
both virgin and mated queens in the same
colony. Prepare a queen bank as you would a
finisher hive.
Virgin queens can be banked in
individual cages for up to two weeks
after emerging from their cells.
However, they should be introduced
into nucs and allowed to mate as
soon as possible. If held for more
- 12 ­
than two weeks, virgin queens will
lose their inclination and ability to
mate and will produce only
unfertilized eggs (drones).
Mated queens can also be held in
individual cages for up to two
weeks. When ready to ship, three
or four attendant bees should be
added to the cage. Choose these
from among the workers clustering
on the outside of the cage. They are
already accustomed to her scent
and have been participating in
feeding her. Mated queens that are
caged before they have had an
opportunity to lay eggs often
become poor-quality layers when
later introduced to a hive. Allowing
queens to establish a good laying
pattern in the mating nuc before
they are caged also ensures that
only high-quality queens are being
sold. Marking queens only after
their laying pattern has been evalu­
ated is good practice. This will
assist the beekeeper in locating the
queen again when it is time to cage
her and establishes which queens
are ready for shipment. Use the
established international queen
marking color system (Table 2)
for all queens that are offered
for sale.
Table 2
Standard queen marking colors repeat
ever y 5 years. Use the color for the last
digit of the year in which the queen was
mated.This color indicates the age of
the queen and assures the beekeeper
that she has not been replaced. Marking
queens is par ticularly impor tant in
areas with established populations of
Africanized honey bees.
year ending in queen color
1 or 6 white/gray
2 or 7 yellow
3 or 8 red
4 or 9 green
5 or 0 blue
 Shipping
Queens
Shipping queen bees through the
U.S. mail or by other common
carriers can be simple and con­
venient, but has risks. A live
queen can be killed easily if left in
direct sunlight or in a hot vehicle.
Communicate with your shipping
representative and pick-up driver (if
possible) to ensure they are aware
that you have live cargo. Discuss
their handling methods and esti­
mated travel times. Some carriers
may supply you with stiff card­
board document envelopes free of
charge. These are fine for shipping
a small number of caged queens.
For larger numbers of queens,
special packaging may be neces­
sary. Shipping containers must have
adequate ventilation. Drill or punch
holes in envelopes or use boxes
with screen panels.
Place a queen cage in an envelope
so that the screened side is not
against the envelope itself. Just
before sealing the packaging, wet a
fingertip with clean water and rub it
across the screen mesh. This simple
technique of watering the queen
before shipping will greatly reduce
stress on the queen and workers
during transit.
Minimal shipping time is important.
Only ship queens using overnight or
two-day service. Beware of shipping
in extremely hot or cold weather.
Record
Keeping
Record keeping is extremely
important when breeding queen
bees. The schedule for queen rear­
ing procedures (Table 1) is neces­
sarily based on the developmental
cycle of the queen bee and cannot
be altered. The beekeeper should
therefore establish clear written
records to track the steps taken and
know when to expect queens to
emerge. If a grafted larva was a day
older than it appeared, for instance,
a queen may emerge a day earlier
than expected.
The particular pedigree of queen
lines should be recorded as well.
Note the date and original source of
breeding stock (name and location
of breeder from which it was pur­
chased), bee race (Italian, Russian,
Carniolan, etc.), and any other char­
acteristics or information that is
known (VSH or hygienic traits).
Begin new records for all colonies
that are propagated from existing
stocks, or from feral colonies or
swarms that were captured. Consider
everything you know about them as
you evaluate colonies as potential
breeding stock.
When installing queen cells or virgin
queens into a mating nuc, record the
date of introduction, and then record
the date when she is found to be
laying eggs. It is a good practice to
mark each queen only after her egg-
laying pattern has been evaluated.
Cloake Board
Method
The Cloake board method,
developed by Harry Cloake of New
Zealand, uses just one hive for both
starting and finishing queen cells.
Because the “starter” bees must feed
a large number of open brood in
addition to the grafts, they are
unable to devote all of their
resources to a large number of queen
cells. This system is not suitable for
commercial queen production. How­
ever, on a small-scale, a beekeeper
can easily produce up to a dozen
queens at a time using this method.
A Cloake board consists of a
wooden frame that provides a flight
entrance to the bees above it, with a
queen excluder below, and a sliding
metal divider which functions to
close off the queen excluder and pre­
vents communication between the
two groups of bees (Figure 15).
Begin with a strong queenright
colony that has at least two deep
hive bodies (Figure 16). Prepare the
- 13 ­
hive by removing the upper box.
Rotate the lower box and bottom
board 180 degrees, so that the flight
entrance is now to the back of the
hive, and completely close off the
entrance to the lower box. Confirm
that the queen is in this lower box.
If not already present, move three
to four frames of open brood into
the upper box. Remove one frame
(empty or containing honey, but not
brood), leaving nine evenly spaced
frames. Ensure that the top box
contains two frames with pollen or
bee bread. This food will be neces­
sary to care for the open brood and
queen cells.
Place the Cloake board on top of the
lower hive body, without the metal
divider. The Cloak board’s entrance
should be facing forward, or the
same direction as the original open­
ing. Replace the upper box and close
the lid to the hive (Figure 17).
Leave the hive alone for 12 hours.
The open brood will attract nurse
bees into the upper box. Returning
foragers will land on the front of the
hive, looking for the entrance, and
will eventually find their way into
the upper entrance, but it may take
some time.
After 12 hours, slide the metal
divider into place and unblock the
lower entrance, now facing to the
rear of the hive (Figure 18). As bees
adjust to the new openings, most
foragers that leave the lower
entrance will return to the upper
box. These bees will bring fresh
resources to the bees in the upper
Figure 15. A Cloake board consists of a
queen excluder mounted in a wooden
frame, with a removable metal insert. It also
has a flight entrance above the excluder.

Figure 16. Begin with a strong, queenright
colony with at least two deep hive bodies.
Figure 18. After 12 hours, insert the metal
floor and unblock the lower entrance. Add
the cell bar frame to the upper hive body.
box. Because communication with
the queenright portion of the hive
below has been cut off by the metal
slide, the bees in the upper box will
soon perceive that they are queen-
less and will be ready to nurture the
grafts that will be placed in the
upper section of the hive.
Prepare a cell bar frame with a
small number of grafts according
the methods described earlier. Open
the top hive body and remove any
emergency queen cells that the
upper bees may have started.
Rearrange the nine frames to allow
for the addition of the cell bar
frame, placing it near the center of
the hive, with brood and food on
each side. If necessary, feed them
pollen and/or syrup. Leave the metal
slide in place for 24 hours. The
upper box, in this state, functions as
the starter hive.
After 24 hours, remove the metal
divider, reuniting the two boxes
(Figure 19). This allows the worker
Figure 17. Rotate the hive and place the
Cloake board between hive bodies, ensur­
ing that the queen remains below. Block the
lower flight entrance.
Figure 19. After 24 hours, remove the
metal floor and allow the colony to finish
the queen cells.
bees from both sections to care for
the grafts, but the excluder prevents
the queen from destroying the new
queen cells.
This method can also be accom­
plished by using any queen excluder
and a piece of plywood or other
material that completely cuts off
communication between the halves
of the colony.
Introducing
Queens
For best results, do not introduce a
new queen until a hive has been
queenless for at least 24 hours.
Look for eggs to be sure a laying
queen is not present. If so, the
workers will kill the new queen.
When replacing a queen, remove
(kill) the old one at least 24 hours
before introducing the new queen.
Destroy any queen cells in a hive
before installing a new queen. If a
colony has started making queen
- 14 ­
cells, these bees may reject the new
queen and continue raising their
own. If no eggs are visible, the hive
may have a virgin queen or a newly
mated queen who will soon begin
laying eggs. Check the hive after
6 p.m. to spot a virgin queen which
may have been out on a mating
flight earlier in the afternoon. A
colony will not accept a new queen
if a virgin queen is already present.
Do not remove the candy plug
from the queen cage. Allow time
for the new queen’s pheromones to
permeate the hive. Only remove the
cork or plastic cap that is covering
the candy. Do not directly release
the queen into the hive or the
colony may kill her.
Hang the queen cage in the center
of the brood nest area. The queen
cage can be held snugly in place
between two frames, or suspended
between two combs on a wire or
string. Do not place the screen side
of the cage against a comb or the
bees cannot feed the queen through
the mesh and spread her phero­
mones throughout the colony. If the
cage falls to the bottom of the hive,
bees will quickly cover it. Use your
hive tool to retrieve the cage and
secure it between two frames.
Always position the cage so
that the candy plug faces up!
If the candy plug faces down, dying
attendant bees may fall and block
the queen’s access to the exit.
Do not remove the attendant bees
from the cage. These few bees
already accept and feed the queen
and will transfer her pheromones to
the workers outside of the cage.
Allow your bees three to five days
to release the new queen. After this
time, you may open the cage and
release her.
 Printed by University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service Printing Services.

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Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Arkansas. The Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible
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