UV30476 Design and Apply Nail Art

TRAINING MANUAL
Nail Technology – UV30405
1|Page UV30405/UV20399 – Training manual

Introduction to Nail Technology
Nails have become an important fashion accessory and professional nail treatments now make a major contribution to the
continuing growth and success of the beauty industry. Almost every high street has at least one specialist nail clinic with many
hairdressers and beauty salons employing qualified nail technicians. Artificial nails are big business, they are very profitable and
there is considerable scope for retail sales.
Systems Advantages Disadvanges
Silk / Fibreglass • Flexible, thin and natural • Difficult to correct irregular nail
looking. shapes.
• Versatile system for repairs or • The product ages quicker than

overlays of the natural nail. other systems.
• Easy and quick to remove with • Spray activator can cause

little or no damage to the respiratory problems, masks
natural nail. may need to be worn.
• Spray activators may cause

problems for clients with
sensitive skin.
• Cyanoacrylate resin vapors can

cause eye problems
• Fiddly and time consuming

when learning .
Gel • Easy to apply • Good ventilation is still

required.
• Low odour product
• Not as strong as liquid and
• Can be slightly more flexible powder.
than other systems.
• Not as easy to remove or repair.
• High gloss shine on finishing.
• Higher risk of allergic reaction
• Can look very natural if applied (do not allow product to touch
properly. the skin)
• It can correct irregular nail • Can create a ‘heat’ sensation on

shapes. curing under UV light.

Systems Advantages Disadvanges
Acrylic • Can be flexible, thin and natural • It takes time to remove.

looking.
• Dust can be a problem.
• It is the strongest system for
heavy handed clients. • Odours can be a problem in
some environments.
• Maintenance is quick and easy.
(once proficient) • Most systems need a primer.
• It can correct irregular nail • It is the most difficult to master.

shapes.
• It is time consuming when
• Sculpting is successful. learning.
• A permanent French look can be

achieved.
• Some products can be heat

sensitive
There are many different artificial nail systems and technology is advancing at such a rate the new, improved methods seem to
be appearing all the time. The companies who distribute nail systems in the UK ensure technicians are kept up-to-date.
Pre-formed Stick on Nails:
• This method uses a plastic nail that is applied to the whole nail plate using adhesive.
No buffing or blending is required as there is no join seam.
• They can last for up to 1 week. Application time 30 minutes.
Nail Tips:
• Plastic nail tips that are applied to the natural nail tip only using adhesive.
Buffing is required to blend the seam line.
• They can last for up to 1 week. Application time 45 minutes.
Tips and Overlays:
• This method involves applying a nail tip (as above), then overlaying with silk, fibreglass, UV gel or acrylic for added
durability.
• They can last indefinitely provided they are regularly maintained.

Infills are required every 2-3 weeks.
• Application time 2 hours.
Sculptured Nails:

• No plastic tip is used. The product is built up over and extends from the natural nail by the use of a nail form.
Skill is required to produce a natural looking nail. Acrylic or UV gel can be used to achieve this.
• They can last indefinitely provided they are regularly maintained.

Infill is required every 2-3 weeks.
• Application time 1 ½ - 2 hours.
Natural Nail Wrap:
• This is the application of any of the systems onto the natural nail.
This strengthens the natural nail.
• Infill is required every 2-3 weeks. Application time 1 - 1 ½ hours.
Tip Structures
The application of tips is the basis of many of the nail systems. Understanding your plastic tips will allow you to make the correct
choices in product and procedures to get the most out of your treatment and to achieve a natural looking Nail extensions.
Contact / Well Area:
This is a thinner area that is in contact with the natural nail. This makes it easier to fit without air bubbles, it is safer to blend and
it leaves most of the natural nail exposed for the overlay to bond to.
Stop Point:
This is the demarcation of the contact area and the tip. The natural nail free edge should fit snugly into this area without any
gaps. The natural nail free edge should fit snugly into this and will protect the nail from absorbing too much water and prevent
dirt becoming trapped. The natural nail should be filed into shape to match the curve of the stop point as much as possible.
Side Wall:
Tips either have parallel or tapered sidewalls to suit the natural nail shape. A well-constructed tip will have reinforced side to the
contact area in order to provide maximum strength in this vulnerable area.
Upper Arch
Like natural nails, tips have different upper arches from flat to very curved. Choose the one that fits the clients nail shape. The
upper arch runs from the cuticle to the free edge.

C” Curve
As with the upper arch, this can vary and the shape of the natural nail should dictate which is most suitable. The tip needs to sit
on the nail comfortable without distorting the shape of the tip.
The first thing to look for in order to choose the correct tip is the “C” curve of the natural nail. Some nails are quite flat and
others more rounded. There is a tip available to correctly fit every nail type.
If a tip that is too curved is fitted to a flat nail, it will pinch and put pressure on the nail plate. This can be uncomfortable for the
client, can cause damage and will not last. Conversely, a flat tip on a curved nail will be difficult to fit as it will not stick to the
sides and eventually lifting will occur.
Once you have decided which type you are going to use, you must pick the correct size. Most tips come in 10 different sizes, size
1 being the biggest and size 10 being the smallest. Some companies have produced a size ‘0’ (being larger than a size 1). You will
find that you use sizes 4-6 the most.
When choosing the correct size, you must ignore the width of the contact area and look at the width of the stop point. This must
be the exact same width as the nail at the smile line without any gaps when the sidewalls are pulled back. It is a common
mistake to fit a nail that is too narrow. It cannot always be seen on a new set but when the nails grow, there will be a step at the
side with some natural nail exposed.
If one size is too wide and the next too narrow, choose the wider tip and file away a very small amount from either side until it
fits perfectly. If you have a very flat nail and the tip has the wrong ‘C’ curve, choose a much wider tip, which will be flatter, and
file the sides until it is the correct width. Remember: Always pre-tailor a tip before you apply it… you cannot change it once it is
fitted

Workstation Check List
Prepare your work area as for manicure, sitting opposite your client.
• Disinfect your work station.
• Cover with disposable covering.
• Lay your clean files and buffers, tools and equipment in a logical order for work.
• Place your products on the table, ensure they are labeled correctly.
• Cotton wool discs, lint free wipes, cotton buds, tooth picks .
• Foot operated waste bin.
• Adequate lighting and ventilation.
• Client consultation card and pen.
TIP: If you are right handed, place everything you need on your right hand side, and if you are left handed; place everything to
your left.
This avoids turning to reach items and helps prevent back problems occurring.
Other things to remember:
Are you dressed professionally?

Do you have everything you need?
Is your client comfortable and at the correct height?
Are you comfortable with your stool at the correct height to avoid back pain?
Nail Preparation
The basis of a good set of nail extensions or natural nail overlays is the preparation of the natural nail. Inaccurate or rushed
preparation is often the cause of problems that occur later, which usually result in unhappy clients or serious problems such as
fungal or bacterial infections.
1. Before applying a full set of nail extensions or overlays, sanitise your client’s hands using a hand sanitizer. The technician
should wash her own hands using an anti-bacterial hand wash or steri-scrub. It is not recommended that the client wash
their hands as the introduction of water to the nail plate can often cause lifting.
2. Adjust the free-edge of the natural nails. If they are shortened and filed to the correct shape, the artificial nail tip will fit
much better.
With a disinfected dual-tool or cuticle knife, carefully remove all cuticle skin from the nail plate. If you use the dual-tool
correctly, the nail plate will not be scratched or damaged and the skin will be efficiently removed without the need for softening
agents. Make sure there are no hangnails along the sides of the nails. If your client’s cuticles are too overgrown, these should be
dealt with at least a day before with a manicure treatment.
4. Using a natural nail buffer gently remove the surface shine from the natural nail and ensure that all debris is removed from
the cuticle area, this will ensure much better adhesion of the artificial nail structure.
5. Remove any grease from the natural nail with your sanitising spray on a lint free wipe.
The nails are now prepared and ready for the next stage of application –
A plastic tip, which will extend the length of the nail, or the overlay of your choice to strengthen the natural nail.
Preparation of the natural nail is important for a number of reasons:
• The nail plate must be completely clean to ensure bacteria, naturally found all over the body, is not the type that can
grow and develop under the overlay and cause damage to the natural nail and surrounding tissue.
• In order for the adhesives and overlay products to bond to the natural nail, it must be completely dry and grease free.
There must be no trace of cuticle skin on the nail, as products will not bond to skin.
• Many systems of artificial nails require a bonding agent or “primer” in order to enhance the bond between the natural
nail and the product.
• It is during this whole process that the natural nail must be checked for condition and shape and the treatment
modified as necessary. You can also begin to educate your client on how to care for her nails.

Tip Application
Procedure:
8. Cut the tips to the approximate finish length
1. Choose the correct tip for the prepared nail. required by the client using tip cutters and shape
2. Pre-tailor the tip if necessary. with a 180 grit file.
3. Apply a small drop of adhesive to the contact 9. Blend all the tips using a 240 grit file and
area and spread with the nozzle. remove traces of dust with a nail wipe that is
4. Place the tip at an angle to the contact area, just dampened with a little nail sanitizer.
below the free edge, slide the tip up until the well 9. Allow to dry before proceeding with the
area butts up against the free edge of the nail. overlay -silk, fibreglass, gel or acrylic can be
5. Lever the tip upon the nail slowly, ensuring there used.
are no air bubbles, until a small amount of adhesive
oozes onto the nail plate and the tip is at the right
angle.
6. Hold for a count of 5, pushing the finger up, not For beginners it is advisable to protect the
the tip down. natural nail from any damage that can be caused
7. Repeat for all 10 fingers. by filing. This can be done by applying a thin
layer of resin or adhesive to cover the exposed
natural nail, care must then be taken not to buff
this area.
Remember not to touch the nail plate or allow

the client to do so during this procedure. Natural
oil from fingers can prevent nail tips and overlays
from adhering securely.
Tip Application - Tips with reduced contact area

Some tips have a reduced contact area.
There are several reasons for this. If this tip is an opaque white it is designed to create a quick and easy permanent ‘French
polish’ look. Although this tip can be used with any system, there are restrictions to who can wear this tip. The tip must be
applied to the end of the nail and not blended. The shape forms a perfect ‘smile line’ and the overlay will create the necessary
strength.
The tips are NOT suitable for:
• A client who has a different ‘C’ curve.
• A short nail bed, as the extra white tip, when correctly placed, will make the nail look unbalanced.
• A client without any free edge.
• Naturally colored tips with a reduced contact area can be used if none of the restrictions apply. They can be used
without the need for blending, as a good overlay will cover the line of the tip.

Tip Application - Tips with full contact area
• Most tips have a full contact area. These can be applied directly to the nail plate with adhesive or they can be tailored
beforehand.
• The contact area should cover no more than half the natural nail, the less the better.
• When applying a tip with a full contact area it is easy to get air bubbles under the tip. The bubbles look unsightly and
could be areas for bacteria or fungus to grow.
• The adhesive bonding the tip can eventually break down in water, the more area covered, the more which can be
broken down.
• The strongest bond in the nail structure is between the nail and the overlay.
• A full contact area needs blending until it is invisible with no shadow which will be seen through the overlay.
• When a tip is applied to a nail with a flat upper arch a full contact area will cause the tip to tilt upwards at an unnatural
angle.
Tip Application
Removing The contact Area
There is no rule that states that the contact area must be either removed or left in place, however, it is a useful skill to
understand. The aim is to achieve a natural-looking, string artificial nail that has been applied without damage to the natural nail
and under safe and hygienic conditions.
• Using a file - By holding the tip and a file at an angle the contact area can be removed quickly leaving a curved edge, the
side walls left in place provide extra strength.
• Using scissors or clippers - Curved blade scissors are ideal for snipping around the contact area following the shape of
the stop point.
• Nail clippers can also be used to cut out a ‘V’ shape
•
Cutting Techniques
• There are several tools available that are designed to make cutting easier. These clippers are quick and efficient and
allow the tip to be shortened in one movement. When using these, the metal plate that has the curved hole must be
nearer the finger. This is to protect the finger from being cut as the metal blade is on the other side. If the cutter is
angled, a slight curve shape will be cut on the tip. The more upright the cutter is held, the straighter the edge.

• Scissors or nail clippers can be used for cutting tips, but the plastic can be easily ‘stressed’ or bent which results in white
areas. If using clippers or scissors, the tip should never be cut across in one action, as this will stress the tip. Each side
should be cut separately.
Blending Techniques
• Manual blending - With a file can be used to reduce and blend the contact area of the tip once it has been applied to
the natural nail. Care must be taken to avoid filing the natural nail plate.
• Electric nail drills - Can be very useful in certain circumstances and to do particular jobs within the nail service,
however in untrained or inexperienced hands, they can cause great discomfort to the client and very possible long-term
damage to the natural nail. The drills have different attachments and speed control and are used instead of a file for
blending the tip.
• Chemical blending- Works by melting the plastic of the tip as an alternative to blending with a file or drill. Using this
method avoids damage to the nail plate. Acetone may be used for this or there are some branded products available on
the market.
Silk / Fibreglass Overlays
Both silk and fibreglass have the same application technique and are fairly equal in strength and durability.
Products Required:
• Silk fabric or fibreglass mesh
• Stork nail scissors
• Resin
• Nozzle
• Resin activator
• Orange stick (or toothpick)
Silk / Fibreglass Overlays
Procedure:
1. Cut a strip of silk or fibreglass to fit the width of the nail.
2. Cut the base to match the clients cuticle area.
3. Remove the backing paper and apply to the nail ensuring you leave a very small margin around the cuticle and
sidewalls.
4. Do not touch the fabric. Use the backing paper to press down or an orange stick.
10 | P a g e UV30405/UV20399 – Training manual

5. Apply resin in a line starting from about 4mm away from the cuticle towards the free edge.
(Burp the bottle!)
6. Spread the resin across the nail with the nozzle placed flat against.
7. DO NOT ACTIVATE - This is called ‘wetting’. Leave to dry naturally and check the skin of the sidewalls are not stuck to
the nail.
8. Apply a second layer of resin (thinner than the first), burp the bottle and smooth over with the nozzle.
9. Activate with the Resin Activator.
10. Refine the edges (side wall and cuticle) with 240 grit file or white block file.
11. Check the nail shape.
12. Remove dust with a wipe.
13. Apply a 3rd coat of resin and activate. (Always ‘burp’ the bottle after use)
14. Use a 240 grit buffer to smooth the surface of the nail and remove any bumps or ridges.
15. Look down the barrel of the nail and ensure the free edge is even.
16. Remove all scratches with the white block file.
17. Check all angels of the nail in good light for any “sparkly” nits, which means the surface is still uneven, go back to using
the 240 grit file, then use the white block file and re-check.
18. Check the side walls are not “stuck” to the nail.
19. Apply oil and massage in.
20. Use the 3-way buffer to produce a high shine.
21. Because of the nature of the resin, this product cannot be used to build up protection in a stress area. If you suspect a
client is going to be quite heavy on their nails, you should strengthen the stress area with extra fibreglass or silk.
22. There are two ways of doing this:

Stress Strip:
* Apply a narrow piece of fiber over the stress area, cut to size, “wet” and allow to dry.
* Proceed as usual with overlaying.
Overlapping:
* Apply a strip of fiber near to the cuticle but cut off just past the smile line, “wet” and allow to dry.
* Apply the remainder of the strip overlapping the first one in the stress area, “wet” and allow to dry.
* Proceed as usual with overlaying.

Silk / Fibreglass – Natural Wrapping / Overlay
Clients with good natural nails that just require some added strength, and clients wishing to grow their own natural nails longer
will benefit from this treatment.
The overlaying onto the natural nails of silk or fibreglass is exactly the same application method as if you were applying the
fabric to a nail with an extended tip.
There is one added difference - “sealing”.
• Prepare the natural nails as usual but before you apply oil and shine with a 3-way buffer
• Turn the clients hand over, palm side up
• Gently ease back the finger pad of the nail
• Apply a thin line of resin to the end of each free edge
• Repeat steps 3 and 4 on all nails
This bonds the natural free edge to the overlay and helps to avoid chipping.
However, it is important to inform the client that she must not file her nails as this will break the seal, resulting in an increased
chance of chipping.
Gel Overlays
Most gel overlays are self-leveling, but there are those that are specifically for sculpting and these require buffing
smooth.
All gels require the use of a UV lamp to cure (set) them.
Products Required:
• UV lamp
• Gel (clear / pink / white / sculpting)
• Sealing gel
• Primer

• Gel brush
• Finishing wipe
• Orange stick (or toothpick
Gel Overlays
Procedure:
1. Prepare the nail with tip extensions.
2. Prime the natural nail area and allow to dry.
3. Apply self-leveling gel to 4 nails. (Not thumbs)
4. Set in the UV lamp for 3 minutes. (Check manufacturer’s instructions)
5. Remove the sticky residue with finishing wipe on a lint free pad.
6. Repeat steps 3 - 5 on the four fingers of the other hand.
7. Repeat steps 3 - 5 on both thumbs.
8. Check the contours; although this is a self-leveling gel, it only takes your client to turn her fingers slightly
while under the UV lamp for the gel to run slightly. If you should need to reshape or level the surface, use a
240 grit file, smooth with a white buffer and remove dust.
9. Go back to the first 4 fingers and apply a second coat of gel and set for 3 minutes. (Or according to
manufacturer’s instructions)
10. Remove sticky reside using a lint free wipe and finishing wipe.
11. Repeat steps 9 and 10 on the other hand then both thumbs.
12. Check the contours of each nail and correct if necessary.
13. Apply oil and massage in.
Once cured and the sticky reside removed, gel gives a glass like finish. Aim to produce a good curve to the nail to
avoid buffing, which ruins this finish.
Maintenance
When providing a maintenance treatment, always remember what your client wanted to achieve at the beginning.
Did they want to grow the tips off and have natural nails with an overlay?

At each maintenance session, discuss with your client how they are getting on and check that they happy with their
nails. It may be that the original plan needs changing to achieve another goal. It is not unknown for a client to admit
that they cannot cope with artificial nails or cannot afford long-term maintenance. If this is the case, the nails should
be removed and a course of manicures suggested. Make sure your clients always feel that the choice is theirs and
that your main aim is to take care of their natural nails and to provide them with what they want.
Maintenance Procedure:
Observation
• Look carefully at the nails. A perfect, trouble free set should look tidy. The only difference from then they
were first applied should be the natural nail growth at the cuticle. If there is anything more than this, there is
a problem that needs solving and correcting.
Questioning
• Ask your client how they have got on with the nails. If there are any broken, ask yourself how you intend to
put this right.
Diagnosing
• If they are less than perfect, you need to decide on what the possible causes may be and how you intend to
put them right. Advise the client on how to avoid these problems occurring again.
Treatment
• Having followed the above steps, decide on what is the most appropriate treatment and suggest this to your
client. If the nails are perfect, maintenance will be minimal. If, however, some are lost, broken or lifting, they
will need replacing or correcting.
Recording
• Always record the treatment you are about to carry out on your client record card.
Note: As a new nail technician, you should expect to have some problems as perfect nails only come with practice
and experience. Do not be disheartened by this… it is a learning curve. What is essential is to be able to understand
why the problem occurred and how to put it right. Treat it as part of your practice and the more problems you are
able to solve, the more experienced you will become.
It is impossible to list each and every problem you may encounter; This guide should give you enough ideas to make
suitable recommendations to any problems you are faced with.
Problems Action
Broken nails:
▪ Too weak ▪ Shorten all nails
▪ Weak ▪ Rebuild stress area

Lifting: ▪ Careful preparation
▪ Cuticle on nail ▪ Careful preparation
▪ Oil on nail ▪ Add slightly more product
▪ Overlay too thin ▪ Add slightly less product
▪ Overlay too thick ▪ Take more care in application
▪ Overlay touching skin
Chipping at cuticle: ▪ Apply slightly less product
▪ Overlay too thick ▪ Use less activator (silk/fibreglass)
▪ Overlay too brittle
Problems Action
Chipping at free edge: ▪ Use less activator (silk/fibreglass)
▪ Overlay too brittle ▪ Use more product, taper into cuticle
▪ Overlay too thin
Discolouration of overlay: ▪ Use fresh products and clean tools
▪ Contamination
Discolouration under overlay: ▪ If very superficial, remove overlay, dehydrate,

prime and re-apply.
▪ Yellow/green = bacterial infection between the
overlay and the natural nail ▪ If more serious, remove overlay, refer to GP.
▪ If under nail plate, remove overlay and refer for

treatment. (GP)
▪ DO NOT REAPPLY until condition until condition

has cleared completely.

Problems Action
Discolouration under the natural nail: ▪ Remove all products. Do not re-apply and refer to
GP
▪ Creamy coloured, lifting away from the nail bed
(fungal infection)
Allergic reaction:
▪ Swelling, redness, itching and/or pain ▪ Remove all products. If it clears within a weeks,
patch test or sample nail before re-applying.
▪ Re-apply with different products.
▪ If it does not clear, or gets worse, refer to GP
With all systems, the purpose of maintenance is the same: to rebalance the nail to compensate for natural nail
growth. Not only does the gap at the cuticle need filling in, the stress area of the overlay needs to be put back to the
right place as it will have grown and now be over the free edge.
For clients with an average rate of nail growth, there are 2 types of maintenance:
In-fills:
• After 2 weeks the nail will not have grown very much but will need tidying up and checking for any problems.
At this stage it is not always necessary to apply a completely new overlay. The new growth area can just be
‘filled in’.
Rebalance:
• After 4 weeks or more, or the second maintenance appointment, the stress area will have grown onto the
free edge. This makes the whole structure insecure or unbalanced. This is the stage when the whole overlay
needs to be buffed to a thin, even layer and a new overlay replaced. If required, white tip gel can be applied
to cover the colour variation at the free edge. When using silk or fibreglass, more mesh is required in the re-
growth area.
If the client’s nails grow fast, this maintenance may be needed every time.
Infill / Rebalance Preparation
1. Have all products, tools and equipment needed sterilised and prepared at your work station?
2. Complete a consultation, discuss with the client what needs to be done to restore the overlays to a good condition
and make sure she understands the costs involved.
3. Wash your hands and sanitise your clients hands with sanitising gel.
(Do not use water)
4. Reshape the nails using your 100/180 file and carefully remove any loose or lifted overlay.
5. Lift the cuticle and remove any excess.
6. Using the white block file, remove surface shine from the new nail growth and work over the old overlay to
remove any scratches or imperfections (if a maintenance treatment - File the whole nail structure to a thin even
layer)
7. Remove all dust with a lint free wipe dampened with nail sanitizer.
8. You are now ready to apply your infill or rebalance. (silk / fibreglass / gel)
Silk / Fibreglass - Infill

After preparing for infill:
1. Apply 1 coat of resin to the re-growth area.
2. Activate.
3. Apply resin over the entire nail surface.

(sealing the free edge on a natural nail overlay)
4. Activate - Check side walls / free edge is even.
5. Use white block file to remove “sparkly” bits.
6. Oil and massage in.
7. Use 3-way buffer to produce a high shine.
NOW CHECK ALL 10 NAILS FROM ALL ANGLES
Side Walls / Free Edge / Cuticle Area / Nail Shape / Nail Curve
Silk / Fibreglass – Rebalance

After preparing for rebalance:
1. Cut a small piece of fabric to insert into the re-growth area, overlapping the growth line. (Remember to
leave a hair-line gap around the cuticle)
2. Apply 1 coat of resin to the re-growth area and leave to dry naturally.

3. Apply a second coat of resin to the fabric and activate 6 - 12” away.
4. Activate.
5. Refine the edges with a 240 grit file and white block.
6. Check the sidewalls and free edge’s are even.
7. Apply resin over the entire nail surface. (sealing the free edge on a natural nail overlay)
8. Activate - Check side walls / free edge is even.
9. Use white block file to remove “sparkly” bits.
11. Use 3-way buffer to produce a high shine.
Gel – Infill
After preparing for infill:
2. Apply self-leveling gel to the re-growth area on four nails, set in the UV lamp for 3 minutes. (Check
3. Remove the sticky residue with a finishing wipe on a lint free pad.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 on the 4 fingers of the other hand.
5. Repeat steps 2 and 3 on both thumbs.
6. Check the contours, if you should need to reshape or level the surface, use a 240 grit file, smooth with a
white buffer and remove dust.
7. Back to the first 4 nails, apply one coat of gel over the whole nail and set for 3 minutes. (Check
8. Remove the sticky residue using a lint free pad and finishing wipe.
9. Repeat step 7 on the 4 nails of the other hands and both thumbs.
10. Check the contours.
Gel – Rebalance

After preparing for rebalance:
2. If using self-leveling gel: Apply to the re-growth area on four nails and extend to stretch over the nail
structure to the free edge, set in the UV lamp for 3 minutes.
(Check manufacturer’s instructions)
3. If using sculpting gel: Create a new upper arch and ‘C’ curve, set in the UV lamp for 3 minutes. (Check
4. Remove the sticky residue with a finishing wipe on a lint free pad.
5. Repeat steps 2 / 3 and 4 on the 4 fingers of the other hand.
6. Repeat steps 2 / 3 and 4 on both thumbs.
7. Check the contours, if you should need to reshape or level the surface, use a 240 grit file, smooth with a
white buffer and remove dust.
8. Back to the first 4 nails, apply a second coat of gel over the whole nail and set for 3 minutes.
(Check manufacturer’s instructions)
9. Remove the sticky residue using a lint free pad and finishing wipe.
10. Repeat step 7 on the 4 nails of the other hands and both thumbs.
11. Check the contour.
Removal of Tips and / or Overlays

All the systems available react to solvents. The most efficient solvent is pure acetone, which breaks the bonds that
are holding the molecule chains together, so literally, the nail structures fall off! UV gel has the strongest, most
resistant bonds and will often need buffing down first. Silk / fibreglass have the weakest bonds and responds very
quickly to acetone / tip remover.
There are two ways in which tip removal can be performed:
Individual Removal:
Soak a small piece of cotton wool in acetone / tip remover.
• Place on the surface of the nail.
• Wrap each individual finger and nail in aluminium foil and leave for 15-20 minutes, the heat buildup will
assist with speedy removal.

• Remove the foil and gently ease off the melted overlay with an orange wood stick. (Do not use a plastic
implement)
• Now if necessary put the foil and remover back on and leave for a further 5 minutes.
• Remove any remaining debris with a fine buffer, taking care not to damage the nail plate.
Mass Removal:
1. Remove any nail varnish.
2. Apply oil or Vaseline around the cuticle and lower finger to avoid the acetone drying out the skin.
3. Place a small amount of acetone / tip remover in a non-plastic bowl and immerse all the nails of one hand.
4. Cover the hand and bowl with a towel to prevent vapours escaping.
5. Leave untouched for about 15 minutes.
6. Remove the fingers and wipe with a nail wipe. If a lot of overlay still remains, replace for a further 5 minutes.
Do not leave fingers containing acetone in the air with overlay still on as it hardens again in seconds.
7. Remove any remaining debris with a fine buffer, taking care not to damage the nail plate.
At this point, you can proceed with a manicure, remembering to cleanse both your hands and the clients.
Note: to speed up removals, it is recommended that you file the entire surface of the product with a 180 grit file
before soaking in acetone / tip remover. The bowl of tip remover can also be placed in a larger bowl of warm water;
the heat will assist with speedy removals.
Client Consultation
As a nail technician there should be a number of treatments you can offer your client and you must make sure that
all the options are considered. The consultation process is a two-way discussion with you finding out sufficient
information in order to make recommendations and suggestions, and your client fully understanding what options
are available, what can be expected and future implications with regard to time and money. This will ensure that
your client will be confident that they are receiving the right treatment, and you will be confident that they
understand what is required to make the service a success.
The consultation is a vital part of the treatment as it is at this point that you discuss the needs of the client and
decide what treatment to carry out to meet those needs. To gain information from the client you need to have the
following:
• GOOD COMMUNICATION SKILLS - This not only being verbal but also non- verbal (body language). Examples
of good body language are good posture, eye contact, smiling and encouraging head nods.

• GOOD QUESTIONING TECHNIQUES - This is vital to retrieve the information that you require. Open
questions encourage the client to give much more information. These types of questions begin with “How?”
“When?” “Why?” etc. Closed questions will only have a ‘yes’ or ‘no’ answer, and can be useful for the right
question.
• GOOD LISTENING SKILLS - It is important that you can listen to what the client is telling you in order to meet
their requirements. This will also make them feel important and valued.
When greeting a client, it is important that you welcome them, preferable greeting them by name and introducing
yourself by name at the beginning of the consultation.
During the consultation procedure you would:
• Discuss the clients requirements.
• Match a treatment to the client’s needs.
• Explain the treatment procedure and agree a ‘treatment plan’ with the client.
• Give the client the opportunity to ask any questions. When replying you should be informative, however,
avoid using technical words that could confuse a client.
• Discuss cost, time, frequency and possible course of treatments.
• Provide aftercare, homecare and retail advice.
• Complete the consultation card.
Use open and closed questions to find out:
• Why the client wants nail extensions: are they just for a one-off occasion such as a holiday, or are they
required for permanent wear?
• Has the client and previous experience of wearing nail extensions? Was it a good or bad experience?
• The clients lifestyle: how much time do they have available for looking after her nails? Will she be able to
return every 2-3 weeks for maintenance? Does she have small children? What is her occupation? Will
extensions therefore be practical?
• Has the client got any pre-conceived ideas about what can be achieved? Is the desired shape and length
required possible?
Having discussed the client’s circumstances, you are now in a position to explain all the options and make your own
recommendations. By taking time to do this your client will get the most appropriate service, understand what to
expect and value your professionalism and honesty.

Consider these options:
• MANICURE - A series of good quality manicures with the right products will often produce healthy, strong
nails. This will be less costly that artificial nails and this is ideal for a client who is not sure about the ‘false’
aspect of a full set.
• TIPS - This is not a particularly popular service as the nails produced are temporary but it is ideal for the
client who wants ‘nails’ for an occasion, but does not have the time or money to keep returning for
maintenance. An expertly applied set of tips can look perfectly natural, can last 3-5 days and can be easily
removed with acetone. The charge for this service should be approximately half the cost of a full set of nails
and so is relatively inexpensive.
• NATURAL NAIL OVERLAY - For the client who wants natural nails but cannot grow them and is not in any
rush to have them long. This service works best on natural nails that have a free edge. If the service sounds
right, but the nails are too short, chipping can occur. If this is explained to the client from the outset, and any
chips repaired in the first maintenance, the problem can be easily solved. Some clients like this service as it
can prevent nail varnish from chipping.
• EXTENSIONS - This is the answer for clients who want long nails now! It is the most expensive service and
requires regular maintenance visits. As with natural nail overlays, it needs commitment from the client. This
service can be in the form of tip & overlay or sculpture, and use any of the nail products suitable.
When you have reached an agreement. Make a note of all the relevant facts on the consultation card and ask your
client to sign it.
Natural Nail Shapes

Clients may have a variety of different nail shapes for which you will need to take into consideration when applying
artificial nail structures. You will need to adapt your techniques in order to produce and attractive looking nail. When
using a tip, you may be able to re-mould the shape of the nail tip slightly, this can be done by placing it hot water for
a few minutes and then gently easing it into the desired shape as it starts to cool.
The following nail shapes are examples of common variations.
Fan Shaped Nails

When applying a nail extension to a fan shaped nail the protruding edges of the fan should be files down to produce
a shape as near to oval as required, removing as much of the free edge as possible. The treatment may then proceed
as normal with any system suitable for the client’s needs.
Claw Shaped Nails

When applying a nail extension to a claw shaped nail the free edge should be cut back to the required length. The
treatment for tip and overlay system may proceed using a tip specially designed for a claw shaped nail; it should be
applied at an angle which follows the natural curve of the nail. When sculpting, the curve of the natural nail must be
followed.
Spoon Shaped Nails
When applying a nail extension to a spoon shaped nail the free edge should be cut back to the required length.
When applying a tip and overlay system the center of the nail should be built up with resin to produce a curve which
is equal to that of the tip. When applying a sculptured nail the form should be applied as normal, and when applying
the product, again it should be built up in the dip of the nail to then produce a natural looking curve.
Badly Bitten Nails
These are not easy to apply tips to. Manicure is recommended prior to the tip application, but ideally this should be
carried out at least 24 hours before extensions are applied. Application to a severe nail biter is very difficult and time
consuming… suggest manicures to encourage some nail plate growth before the client considers nail extensions.
Contra-Indications
A contra-indication is a condition that can prevent the treatment being carried out. You should be able to recognise
contra-indications.
Here is a list of contra-indications for nail treatments:
• Severe nail separation
• Severe eczema or psoriasis
• Severe bruising
• Swelling of the hands
• Diabetes (GP referral)
• Open cuts and abrasions
• Fungal infection (ringworm, impetigo)
• Bacterial infection (Paronychia, whitlow)
• Viral infection (warts)

Allergic reaction (to products to be used in treatment
If a client suffers with any of these conditions you should recommend they client to seek medical advice before
proceeding with the treatment. A doctor’s note should then be produced before a treatment can be carried out. As a
nail technician you should not diagnose any condition (only a qualified medic can diagnose), it is unprofessional, you
could worry the client unnecessarily or provide a wrong diagnosis!
Contra-Actions
Contra-actions are adverse conditions that may occur as a result of the treatment. The client must be informed
of these prior to treatment.
Possible Contra-Actions:
• Thinning of the nail plate
• Allergic reaction
• Softening of the nail plate
• Physical trauma to the nail plate, nail bed or cuticle
• Physical trauma due to client abuse
• Peeling of the nail overlay
• Bacterial infection
• Fungal infection
• Overlay lifting at the cuticle
• Loss of extension
• Adhesion failure
• Reaction to products used (e.g. heat sensation during filing)
Appearance:
• The appearance will vary according to the contra-action:
• An allergic reaction can be swollen, red and itchy
• A bacterial infection can easily be recognised by the discolouration under the overlay
• Fungal infections are a whitish/cream colouration that separates the nail bed from the nail plate. If this is not
treated it will keep growing and separating
• Thinning of the nail plate can be seen by the red or pinkness of the nail plate compared to a healthy one
Causes:
• Poor preparation before application of tip and overlay
• Excessive filing to the nail plate during preparation

• Excessive filing whilst blending the nail tip
• Incorrect sizing of tip
• Incorrect removal of artificial nail
• Client abuse
• Cross contamination
Treatment:
• After artificial nails are removed keep the free edge short
• Let the trauma grow out prior to replacing artificial nails
• The client must use a nail strengthener for weak and damaged nails
• Seek medical advice
General Home Care Advice

It is important to make sure that your client understands how to look after her nails at home. This will ensure she
gets the best value from her treatment, and that the nails last for the longest possible time. It will also show your
professionalism.
• Wear gloves for manual jobs such as gardening and washing up.
• Try to use the pads of the fingers or the knuckles for performing certain tasks such as turning on light
switches.
• Use a pen or similar item for dialing a telephone number.
• Use a non-acetone nail enamel remover as acetone damages the surface of artificial nail structures.
• If the nail ‘snags’ or chips, use a suitable file (purchased from the salon) to smooth the nail.
• Any slight lifting can be resealed with a little glue (purchased from the salon). Ensure the nail is clean and dry
before repairing and inform the technician at the next maintenance visit so that the repair can be checked.
• Do not pull the extensions off. They must be removed properly with acetone, preferably followed by a
manicure.
• When on holiday, make sure the hands and nails are dried thoroughly after swimming and any oil or sun
cream washed off the hands.
• When bathing, try not to soak the hands for too long in the water and wash off any cream-based bath
products.
• Use a nailbrush very gently to remove any dirt or creams from under the free edge. Dirt is trapped very
easily between the nail extension and the natural nail.
• Have regular manicures to maintain the cuticles and enhance the general appearance of the hands.
• Always apply a base coat under nail polish to prevent ‘yellowing’ of artificial nails.

Tools & Equipment
Tip Cutters
Used to reduce the length of the artificial nail tips in one easy clip.
Stork Scissors
Used to cut silk and fibreglass (only).
Dual Tool
Used to push back and remove dry cuticles.
Cuticle Nippers
Used to remove any hangnails or excess cuticle before commencing the treatment.
Nail Files
Various grades for different purposes.

White block (120-200 grit)
Used to smooth any unevenness from the artificial nail whilst covering a larger surface area. Also used for preparing
the natural nail.
3-Way Buffer
Used to remove any small imperfections and bring the nails to a shine.
Useful Product Information

Acetone - Used for the removal of artificial nail extensions.
Brush on activator - Fast acting, this product usually contains ethyl acetate that is used for setting cyanoacrylate. No
heat sensation is caused ensuing client comfort and there is no odour. Ideal for those affected by Resin Activator
Spray. Flammable, keep away from heat and flames. Ensure adequate ventilation and avoid contact with skin and
eyes. Do not swallow.
Capping Sealer - Can be used on any artificial structure to reduce yellowing of the product. Commonly used (and
needed) for UV gels, it should be applied 24 hours after nail application. This product is a clear varnish, which
contains a UV inhibitor. Flammable, keep away from heat and flames. Eye irritant, ensure adequate ventilation.
Colour Correction Pen - A handy pen that allows complete control of polish removal. Replace top immediately after
use. Flammable, keep away from heat and flames. Ensure adequate ventilation. Eye irritant.
Cuticle Oil - Contains mineral oils, olive oils and some also contain essential oils. Cuticle oil can be used to re-hydrate
the tissues after nail extensions or during manicures and to keep the overlay products flexible. It can also be used in
Tip Removal to prevent the excessive drying action of the Acetone or Tip Remover.
Cuticle Remover - Contains potassium hydroxide and other ingredients that help to soften and dissolve excess
cuticle and eponychium. Avoid long-term contact with the skin and wash hands thoroughly after use. If eye contact
occurs, wash thoroughly with water.
Fibreglass Mesh - Provides maximum amount of strength with the minimum of thickness. A woven thread fabric
formulated not to splinter. Fibreglass fabric reduced the chance of (fibreglass) particles escaping into the air. The
mesh should always be stored in a cool place, preferably in a sealed plastic bag or container.
Files - There are various shapes and sizes of cushioned board files and block buffers which are graded according to
their ‘grit’ size. The coarser the surface, the lower the grit number; each has a different purpose:
• 80/80: A heavy-duty buffer used for thinning nail structures 100/100: for shaping natural and artificial nails
• 100/180: For second stage buffing on all systems
• 100/240: Buffer for string natural nails and artificial nail extensions 180/240: for shaping natural nails
• 280/900: Fine grade and used mainly for blending and smoothing
• 1000/2500: Micro-abrasive and used to buff and shape natural and artificial nails.
• Finishing Wipe - A specially formulated liquid containing alcohol for the removal of the sticky residue left
after curing UV gel. Also recommended for cleaning gel brushes. Flammable, keep away from heat and
flames. Eye irritant. Ensure adequate ventilation.
• Glue De-bonder Pen - A handy and safe application pen that contains nitro ethane for the removal of excess
glue. Always replace the top after use. Flammable, keep away from heat and flames. Ensure adequate
ventilation.
• Nail Adhesive / Resin - These products are from part of the cyanoacrylate family. Within the range there are
many different formulas available with different ‘viscosity’ (thickness). Some are as thin as water and some
are very thick. The thinner the formula the faster it dries and the more likely it is to cause a heat reaction.
Cyanoacrylate is the newest and strongest bonding adhesives available and is used to bond products to the
nail plate. They can therefore also bond skin tissue together in seconds and so you must take care when
using them. The fumes are an eye-irritant. Ensure adequate ventilation and avoid contact with skin and eyes.
Flammable, keep away from heat and flames.
• Nail Hardener - Varnish based nail strengtheners often contain hydroysed animal protein, but there are
many formulations available. It is the protein that helps to strengthen the natural nail plate. It can be applied
as a base or topcoat and should be used every day, removed after seven days and repeated. All are
Flammable; keep away from heat and flames. Ensure adequate ventilation.
• Nail Nourishers - Usually containing a blend of organic oils, calcium compounds and panthenol, which carry
the calcium directly to the nail. Nourishers are also available in roll-on applicators that stimulate nail growth
and prevent spillage; these also contain antimicrobial agents such as Thymol making them safe to use on
more than one client.
• Nail Polish - The main ingredients are butyl acetate, nitro-cellulose, toluene and pigments. Formaldehyde
used to be another ingredient but has been eliminated from many manufacturers’ products as they can
cause allergic reactions in some clients. All nail polishes are flammable; keep away from heat and flames.
Ensure adequate ventilation.
• Nail Tips - Made of ABS plastic which works well with adhesives and resins. Nail tips are quick and easy to
blend, producing no head reaction when filed. ABS has an opaque look, giving a natural finish and flexibility
essential for nail extensions.
• Non-Acetone Nail Polish Remover - Usually containing methyl ethyl ketone, isopropyl alcohol and ethyl
acetate. For fast and effective removal of nail polish this product is kinder to the natural nail than acetone-
based removers and essential for artificial nails. Acetone-based removers will dissolve the surface of the
artificial structure. Always use the Non-Acetone formula for use with your Product range, as other product
ranges may still have an adverse reaction on the nail structure. Make sure you always have retail bottles
available for your clients to purchase.
Use a product with a pump dispenser to reduce evaporation and prevent spillage. Flammable, keep away
from heat and flames. Ensure adequate ventilation. Eye irritant.
• Polish Thinner - Usually contains methyl isobutyl ketone. Polish thinner extends the life of a polish. Ensure
adequate ventilation and avoid contact with skin and eyes. Flammable, keep away from heat and flames. Eye
irritant.

• Primer - These are wetting agents and make liquids more compatible with a surface. For instance, nail polish
base coats are a form of primer too. Primers are sometimes needed with artificial nail extensions. They are
particularly useful if the client has oils skin as it removes small molecules of oil that can block adhesion.
Primers act like double-sided sticky tape; it is a strong acid (and therefore and irritant) so care must be taken
to avoid contact with the surrounding skin tissues and the cuticle area of the nail. Primer is usually available
in brush-on form or as a pen, which is safer to use. Ensure adequate ventilation and avoid contact with skin
and eyes. Do not swallow. Flammable, keep away from heat and flames.
• Resin Spray Activator - Is formulated to chemically increase the speed of any cyanoacrylate drying. You must
ensure that you spray this product at least 6 – 12” away from your client and that you only use a fine mist.
Resin Activator has a strong odour, which can aggravate asthma or cause respiratory or eye irritation. Ensure
adequate ventilation. Flammable, keep away from heat and flames. Eye irritant.
• Sterilizer Spray - This product contains a specific concentration of isopropyl alcohol, or other suitable
alcohol, and water. The water is added to control the evaporation time of the alcohol. These highly effective
disinfectants are used to destroy and reduce the growth of bacteria, fungi and other microorganisms on your
tools, desk, skin and nails. Spray liberally to ensure good surface coverage and preferably leave to evaporate.
Flammable, keep away from heat and flames. Do not swallow. Ensure adequate ventilation.
Salon Safety and Hygiene

The work area should be prepared in a similar way to a manicure workstation. Both the therapist and the client
should be seated comfortable to avoid either becoming uncomfortable.
Salon Safety
Safety should be taken into consideration at all times regardless of your place of work, be it in a salon or as a mobile
therapist visiting clients in their own homes. Nearly all nail products come with a “potentially hazardous” category
indicated by symbols on their containers, and should be treated with respect, (see COSHH).
Some simple guidelines:
• Store all products in a cool dark place with the lids secured
• Make sure all products are clearly labeled (do not decant into unlabelled bottles)
• Keep all products away from naked flames (e.g. Candles, cigarettes)
• Dispose of all chemicals in the correct method
• Keep all products away from children
• Work in a well ventilated area
• Work tidily
• Put waste in a covered foot-operated metal bin with a disposable liner
• Ensure all tools and equipment are maintained in hygienic conditions
• All electrical equipment must conform to British standards
• Have all electrical equipment checked by a qualified electrician annually

• Keep dust to a minimum
• Wash your hands before and after each treatment
Waste Disposal
Solvents:
Nail varnish remover, tip remover and acrylic liquid are all solvents and therefore potentially hazardous. If you need
to dispose of any of these, for instance after removing artificial nails, it must be done safely and without any damage
to the environment.
• Pour the solvent onto a bundle of absorbent material (e.g. tissue, couch roll) and place in a covered metal
bin with a disposable liner. Never pour solvents down the drain or lavatory, as there may be plastic pipes,
which could be damaged.
• Large quantities of solvent (which is too much for this method) can be placed in a large glass or metal bowl
and left to evaporate (ensure it is placed out of reach of children and animals).
Waste Material
While you are working you should have a foot operated metal bin, with a lid and disposable liner, which is within
easy reach. Put all waste materials in this immediately. A covered metal bin will reduce the fumes associated with
solvent products.
At the end of a working day, waste can be disposed of in a dustbin for usual collection. Do not attempt to burn this
waste, even in the open air.
Dust
Dust is as potentially hazardous as solvents as the dust you cannot see is the most hazardous of all. Your client will
spend only a couple of hours in a dust laden atmosphere, however, as a nail technician you will potentially spend
whole days breathing in quantities of airborne dust
Dust extractors should draw the dust downwards or sideways, ensure the unit is not positioned so that the dust is
drawn up past your face. Ventilation units also need to be positioned correctly, solvents are heavier than air and fall
nearer the ground, therefore ventilation units set high in the wall will not remove these vapours.
Suggestion: when preparing your work area, lay out several layers of disposable towel. Gently fold over the top layer
after each stage of the treatment (nail preparation, tip application and blending, overlay, shaping, finishing). This
way, dust and vapours are kept to a minimum and you will always have a clean work area.
Spillage

Wipe away any spillages immediately. Solvents spills can be wiped up with absorbent material and disposed of in the
normal way. Larger quantities (if a whole bottle of solvent spilt) should be cleaned up as described, but put the
absorbent material in a separate bag, seal and thoroughly ventilate the area until all the vapours have cleared.
• Adhesive spills will need acetone or tip remover to soften them, which again should be disposed of
carefully.
• If you are planning to be a mobile technician, make sure that your insurance policy covers you for accidental
damage in your client’s home. Spilt solvents, soaking through a protective towel will cause a great deal of
damage to a polished wooden table… acetone will melt plastic!
Over Exposure
The chemicals used in the nail industry are safe if treated with respect, but they can become harmful without you
even realising it. This is when an allergic reaction occurs. The quantity needed for a specific chemical to start an
allergic reaction is different for each individual. An individual may suddenly become allergic to a skin cream, soap
powder or type of food that they have not been in contact with for some time… this can happen to anyone, at any
time, and is due to over-exposure to the item. The body has had enough and can react in different ways.
Salon Hygiene:
The purpose of salon hygiene is not just to make your working area look nice, it is also essential in protecting both
you and your client.
We need to ensure we avoid cross-infection by decontaminating all our tools and equipment.
If a client has a contra-indication, this could be contagious and therefore puts you and other clients at risk from
cross-infection. This is why the client consultation is so important and it gives us time to determine if the treatment
can go ahead.
There are 3 levels of decontamination:
Level 1 - Sterilisation
This procedure kills all living disease causing micro-organisms and their spores. It is very difficult to maintain outside
and operating theatre but it is a process that should be carried out on metal tools.
There are 2 methods for achieving sterilisation: Extreme heat or chemical products.
An “Autoclave” is the most commonly used heat method, which is normally used in salons. They work in the same
way a pressure cooker and 15 minutes exposure at 121oC will kill most resistant spores.
There are also several chemical products available that will effectively sterilise metal tools. Care must be taken when
using such a product as they are corrosive and skin contact must be avoided. “Cavacide” is such a product, and will
protect against bacteria, viruses and fungus. Proper equipment designed for the specific product must be used and
the manufacturer’s instructions followed.

Level 2 - Disinfection
This process kills some living organisms (including viruses) if used for long enough and if strong enough. It also
inhibits the growth of others and therefore reduced the incidence of disease, reducing micro-organisms to an
acceptable level.
This level of decontamination should be used on all hard surfaced and non- disposable tools and equipment. It is too
strong to use on the skin. Useful and easy procedure for disinfection would be to have a disinfectant spray of all hard
surfaces, a disinfectant soak for tools and equipment and a weaker dilution in a spray form to instant cleaning of
files, buffers and tools.
Level 3 - Sanitisation
This level kills a few, but mainly inhibits the growth of many micro-organisms and is safe to use on the skin.
Antiseptic products fall into this category. This is the level of decontamination that should be used to clean the
hands of both you and your client; it should also be used to clean the nail plate prior to applying artificial nails to
avoid bacterial and fungal growth.
Product and Consumable Safety Information

Learning about the products and consumables you are working with is equally as important as learning the
application techniques. Many of the products used in the nail industry are made of chemicals but this is nothing to
be worried about as long as you know how to handle and use them safely.
Generally, when people hear the work ‘chemical’ they think of something dangerous or toxic, which sometimes can
induce a state of fear. This fear is caused by ignorance and lack of understanding about what a chemical really is.

Any chemical can harm you if you become over-exposed to it or if you mix it with something else with which it not
compatible. For all chemicals there are specified levels for safe exposure. Prolonged and repeated contact may cause
problems such as skin or eye irritation or breathing difficulties.
For all chemicals that are manufactured there is a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), which provides advice on
working safely and avoiding risks when working with the products or chemicals. All manufacturers nail products
should be labeled with safety precautions and emergency instructions to ensure peace of mind.
The MSDS provides information to all chemical workers, including Nail Technicians and Manicurists. MSDS also help
fire fighters deal with chemical fires or clean up large chemical spills. This information often helps doctors treat
accidental poisonings. The MSDS provides important information about each product and all professional products
that contain a potentially hazardous substance will have a MSDS.
Here is a brief list of what you can learn from a MSDS:
• Potential hazardous ingredients found in each product
• Proper storage and fire prevention
• Ways to prevent hazardous chemicals from entering the body
• The short-term and long-term health effects of overexposure
• Early warning signs of product overexposure
• Emergency first aid advice
• Emergency telephone numbers
• Safe handling techniques
• Waste disposal
A clear understanding of the products that you work with will put you at ease and in control and will enable you to
work safely and protect your own health and that of your clients on a long-term basis.
There are only 3 ways that a potentially hazardous chemical can enter the body. These are known as ‘routes of entry’
and if you can block these, you will automatically lower your exposure.
These routes are:
Inhalation - By breathing in vapours, mists or dust.
Absorption - Through the skin or broken tissue.

• Ingestion - Unintentional or accidental.
The MSDS will advise you which route of entry is possible for a product. Lowering your exposure is easier if you know
which products require special ventilation and which should be kept off the skin.
Health Effects
The MSDS explains both the short-term and long-term effects of overexposure.
Short-term or acute effects result from overexposure for usually less than 6 months. Short-term effects are “early
warning signs’ of overexposure. Some examples of acute effects are headaches, nausea, scratchy throat, coughing or
rashes. Acute effects such as these are rarely permanent and usually disappear quickly when overexposure ends.
Long-term or chronic effects can also occur with overexposure or misuse. Some chronic effects occur after only 6
months, while others take many years of repeated overexposure.
Remember that adverse health effects are not what will happen, quite the opposite. These dangers MAY happen if
you abuse or misuse the product for long periods. The products are tools, not toys, treat them with respect and you
can easily avoid any problems.
Methods of protection:
Wearing a simple facemask will provide protection from dust and fine particles but will not actually filter out
chemicals.
• Adequate ventilation is essential to remove chemical vapours.
Simple measures such as wiping down the work area, vacuuming the salon regularly and washing your hands will
reduce the risk of irritation and sensitisation from chemicals and dust.
Revision
• An ideal ventilation system in the workplace will replace stale air and draw in fresh air.
• The temperature within the working environment should be at least 16 c.
• Ridges in the nails may be caused by poor health.
• Cuticles that have overgrown onto the nail plate are a treatable condition.
• Dry and split cuticles could occur as a result of over vigorous buffing.
• If a client has severely bitten nails you should focus on the cuticle work to expose the nail plate and
encourage nail growth.
• Your responsibilities under the Health & Safety at Work act are to keep everyone safe and healthy.
• Good standards of hygiene in the salon give clients confidence and also avoid cross infection.
• If a client has a bacterial infection resulting in nail separation remove the nails using the correct method and
refer to their GP.
• If a client is experiencing premature loss and lifting of extensions, ensure the correct application, preparation
and aftercare.

• If a client experiences an allergic reaction during or after application remove the product correctly and refer
to GP if their symptoms persist.
• To avoid chemical exposure work cleanly, avoid skin contact, use correct ratios of product.
• The basic chemical composition of UV gel is part of the acrylic family with pre-formed monomers called
oligomers.
• To remove gel nail enhancements remove nail polish, trim the free edge, file off the gel, complete a full
manicure.
• Acetone is used to remove nail extensions.
• The function of the nails is to protect the fingertips from trauma.
• Learn the nail structure (refer to A&P)
• Structure of skin (refer to A&P).
• Bitten nails are torn below the hyponychium, with the skin broken around the cuticle and nail wall.
• A nail plate that is narrower at the cuticle and wider at the free edge is called a fan nail.
• Severe dermatitis is contra-indicated to a nail service because the skin is hyper-sensitive and may react to
the products being used.
• If a client has severe eczema that is open and weeping refer them to their GP for advice and tell them to
return for a treatment once the condition has improved.

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TRAINING MANUAL

Nail Technology – UV30405

1|Page UV30405/UV20399 – Training manual

Systems Advantages Disadvanges

• Versatile system for repairs or • The product ages quicker than

• Easy and quick to remove with • Spray activator can cause

• Spray activators may cause

• Cyanoacrylate resin vapors can

• Fiddly and time consuming

Gel • Easy to apply • Good ventilation is still

• It can correct irregular nail • Can create a ‘heat’ sensation on

2|Page UV30405/UV20399 – Training manual

Acrylic • Can be flexible, thin and natural • It takes time to remove.

• It can correct irregular nail • It is the most difficult to master.

• A permanent French look can be

• Some products can be heat

Pre-formed Stick on Nails:

• They can last for up to 1 week. Application time 30 minutes.

• They can last for up to 1 week. Application time 45 minutes.

Tips and Overlays:

• They can last indefinitely provided they are regularly maintained.

• Application time 2 hours.

3|Page UV30405/UV20399 – Training manual

• They can last indefinitely provided they are regularly maintained.

• Application time 1 ½ - 2 hours.

Natural Nail Wrap:

• Infill is required every 2-3 weeks. Application time 1 - 1 ½ hours.

Contact / Well Area:

4|Page UV30405/UV20399 – Training manual

5|Page UV30405/UV20399 – Training manual

• Disinfect your work station.

• Cover with disposable covering.

• Foot operated waste bin.

• Adequate lighting and ventilation.

• Client consultation card and pen.

Other things to remember:

Are you dressed professionally?

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Is your client comfortable and at the correct height?

Preparation of the natural nail is important for a number of reasons:

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Remember not to touch the nail plate or allow

Tip Application - Tips with reduced contact area

The tips are NOT suitable for:

• A client who has a different ‘C’ curve.

• A client without any free edge.

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• Nail clippers can also be used to cut out a ‘V’ shape

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Silk / Fibreglass Overlays

• Silk fabric or fibreglass mesh

• Stork nail scissors

• Orange stick (or toothpick)

Silk / Fibreglass Overlays

1. Cut a strip of silk or fibreglass to fit the width of the nail.

2. Cut the base to match the clients cuticle area.

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9. Activate with the Resin Activator.

11. Check the nail shape.

12. Remove dust with a wipe.

16. Remove all scratches with the white block file.

19. Apply oil and massage in.

20. Use the 3-way buffer to produce a high shine.

22. There are two ways of doing this: