Report by Tanjil - & - Ashraful

1
PABNA TEXTILE ENGINEERING COLLEGE

Shalgaria, Pabna
Report on
Industrial Attachment
At
Beximco Textile Limited

Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur
Supervising Teacher
Md. Aminul Islam
Lecturer, Department of Fabric Engineering
Pabna Textile Engineering College
Shalgaria, Pabna
Submited By
Name ID
Md. Tanjil Hossain P201713006
Md. Ashraful Islam P201713011
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Acknowledgement
At the very beginning we acknowledgement the infinite blessing & profound
kindness of “Almighty Allah” – The supreme authority of the universe. We also
acknowledgement the loving support of our parents and family members.
Mr. Aminul Islam, Lecturer, Department of Fabric Engineering, Pabna Textile

Engineering College, our supervisor, to whom we are extremely grateful for his
tremendous support & guidance throughout our internee.
Being working with him we have not only earned valuable knowledge but was also
inspired by his innovativeness which helped to enrich our experience to a greater
extent. His ideas & way of working was truly remarkable. I believe this internee
report could not be finished if he did not help us continuously.
I would like to thank Engr. Md. Solaiman Bari, Principal of Pabna Textile
Engineering College, who has inspired us to take & continue this report.
I would like to thank the management of the “Beximco Textile Limited” for
giving me the opportunity to do the industrial training successfully & also their
valuable suggestions. Our deepest appreciation goes to Mr. Abdul Khaliq, GM
( Dyeing & Finishing), without his permission to conduct our industrial training. I
would also like to thank executives, senior executives & other officials of Beximco
Textile Limited for helping us to complete industrial training successfully. Our
gratitude also goes to al the employees of Beximco Textile Limited for their
sincere co-operation, support & valuable advices
Last but not the least, thanks go to all the people who have assisted, helped &
inspired us to complete this task at various stages. We realize that without their
continuous support we would not be a person we are right now.
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Introduciton
The term textile means originally a woven fabric, but textile & the plural textiles
are now also applied to fibre, filament & yarn. Natural and manufactured fibre and
most products for which these are raw materials are called textile.
The definition embraces, for example fibre based products in the following
categories: threads, cords, ropes and braids, woven knitted and non-woven fabrics,
lace, nets and embroidery, hosiery knitwear and made up apparels, household
textiles, soft furnishing and upholstery, carpets and other floor coverings,
technical, industrial and engineering textiles include geo textiles and medical
textiles.
Textile education is based on industrial ground. Theoretical background is not

sufficient enough, for why industrial training is an essential part of study to make a
technically sound in this field. Industrial training provides me that opportunity to
gather practical knowledge.
Beximco Textile Limited has the capability to offer a complete product range for
the export textile markets. The goal of Beximco Textile Limited is to become the
preffered partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing from Bangladesh
with highly advanced technology and an emphasis on developing local human
resources. Beximco Textile Limited has the potential to make an important
contribution to the nation’s growing readymade garments export sector.
The rationale behind the existing structure and future expansion of Beximco
Textile Ltd. Is to capture value added at each stage of the textile manufacturing
process. Despite bangladesh’ lack of indigenous cotton production capability,
Beximco Textile Ltd. Has leveraged Bangladesh’s labor cost advantage and export
competitiveness to the maximum level.
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Table of Contents
Page
Chapter-1 : General Information of Beximco Textile Limited 6 - 13
Company Profile 7
History of Beximco 8
Mission of Beximco 8
Vission of Beximco 9
Commitment of Beximco to the Environment 9
Products of Beximco 9
Productionof Beximco 12
Design Studio Mission 12
Buyers of Beximco 13
Chapter-2: Pretreatment of Beximco Textile Limited 14 – 33
Singeing & Desizing Process 15
Scouring & Bleaching Process 27
Mercerizing Process 33
Chapter-3: Dyeing Section of Beximco Textile Limited 39 – 44
Thermosol Machine 41
Dyeing Recipe 42
Jigger Dyeing Machine 42
Cold Pad Machine 43
Pad Steam Machine 44
Washing Machine 44
Chapter-4: Finshing Section of Beximco Textile Limited 45 – 6
Heat Setting & Stretching Process in Stenter Machine 46
Finishing Process in Stenter Machine 52
Finishing Process in Sanforizing Machine 56
Finishing Process in Emerizing Machine 61
Finishing Process in Calendar Machine 65
Chapter-5: Quality Control of Beximco Textile Limited 68 - 80
Chapter-6: Inspection Section of Beximco Textile Limited 81 - 84
Chapter-7: Utility Section of Beximco Textile Limited 85 -88

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1st Chapter
General Information of
BEXIMCO TEXTILE LIMITED
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Company profile:
Name Beximco Bextex Limited
Investor Salman F. Rahman & A.S.F Rahman
Corporate Headquarters 17 Dhanmondi R/A, Road No.2
Dhaka-1205, Bangladesh
Phone:880-2-8611891-5, 8618220-7
9677701-5, 7701165
E-mail:beximcochq@bextex.net
Website: www.bextex.net
Operational Headquarters Beximco Industrial Park, Sarabo,

Kashimpur, Gazipur
Factory Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur

Date of Incorporation 30 May, 1984
Commercial Porduciton 1990
Business Line Manufacturing & Marketing of Yarn,
Woven, Knit & Denim Fabrics
Listing Status Public Listed Company

Stock Exchange Listing Dhaka & Chittagong
Authorized Capital in BDT 3,000 Million Taka
Paid Up Capital in BDT 1,882 Million Taka
Number of Shareholders 37,929
Number of Woven Looms Installed 293
Number of Spindles Installed 119,520
Number of Circular Knit Machine --
Installed
Number of Denim Looms Installed 56

Produciton Capacity 28 Million Linear
Number of Employees 5,181
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Histoy of BEXIMCO:
Bextext Ltd. (the “Company”) was incorporated in Bangladesh as a Public Limited
Copmany with limited liability o 8 March 1994 and commenced commercial operation in
1995 and also went into the public issue of shares and debentures in the same year. The
shares of the Company are listed in the Dhaka and Chittagong Stock Exchanges of
Bangladesh.
Bextext Ltd. Is the most modern composite mill in the region. Bextext Ltd. Has an
installed capacity of 288 high speed air jet looms in its weaving section and high-tech
dyeing and finishing section with a capacity of 100,000 yards of finished fabric per day.
This company is located at the Beximco Industrial Park.
Bextext Ltd has a state of the art composite knit fabric production mill, which serves the
growing needs of high quality knit garments exporters in Bangladesh. The project was set
up as a state of the art knit fabric knitting, dyeing and finishing facility. During the year
the Company produced and sold high quality of knit fabric sand bringing forth all the
latest in hard and soft technologies in knitting dyeing and finishing of knit fabric. Bextext
Ltd also has a cotton and polyester blended yarn-spinning mill, with 122,000 spindles is
one of the largest spinning mills of the country. The mill was set up to feed the countyr’s
export oriented industries. Bextex Ltd. Produces specialized finishes of denim cloth for
export in finished as well a cloth only form.
Mission of BEXIMCO:
BEXTEXT Ltd. Is a full service vendor with strong vertically integrated production
facilities as well as creative and analytical capabilities which clearly sets us apart from
most other South Asian vendors.
Today the Beximco Group is the largest private sector group in Bangladesh. Beximco
was founded in the 1970’s by two brothers Ahmed Sohail Fasiur Rahman and Ahmed
Salman Fazlur Rahman. Since the early days the Group has evolved from being primarily
a commodities trading company to a leading, diversified group with a presence in
industry sectors that account for nearly 75% of Bangladesh’s GDP. Beximco’s corporate
mission is “Taking Bangladesh to the world”
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As Beximco has grown over the years, the flagship platform now has operations and
investments across a wide range of industries including textiles, trading marine food, real
estate development, hospitality, construction, information and communication
technologies, media, ceramics, aviation, pharmaceuticals, financial services and energy.
The Group sells its products and services in the domestic employer in the private sector
in bagnladesh and employs over 48,000 people worldwide.
Vision of BEXIMCO:
 Gain market leadership in high value added apparel in USA and Europe.
 Use “Innovation” & “Speed” as prime drivers, rather than cotton & cheap labor.
 Dominate these markets in high quality:
 Men’s, Women’s, Children
 Shirts (Dress and Casual)
 Blouses 9formal & casual), Skirts, Jackets
 Jeans & Casual non-denim bottoms
 Knitted tops & bottoms.
Commitment of BEXIMCO to the Environment:

Our company is very committed to preserve a healthy and pollution-free environment. It
has a very efficient waste collection and disposal system. In order to reduce air pollution
by exhaust to gas from engine-generators, it maintains a costly plant that uses the exhaust
gas to generate steam for chilling unit. Above measures not only help keep the water and
air free from pollution but also help save cost of water treatment and air conditioning.
Your company uses only AZO-free dyes and is dedicated to ensure a healthy and eco-
friendly environment.
Products of Beximco:
Yarn Products:
 Count: Ranging from 6 – 120

 Fibre – Cotton (super-combed, combed, carded)
 CVC-60% Cotton, 40% polyester.
 TC-65% polyester-35% cotton, 100% polyester both regular and sewing thread
 Lyocel, Tencel, Modal, Rayon, Vicosse etc
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Fabric Products:
Solid dyed:
 Poplins
 Twills
 Dobbies
 Oxfords
 Seersuckers
 Canvas
 Ribstops in 100% Combed Cotton
 CVC and CVS/TC
 Stretch
 Sateen
Yarn Dyed:
 Ginghams
 Stripes
 Fill-a-fills/End-on-ends
 Chambrays
 Seersuckers
 Pinpoint
 Oxfords
 Dobbies
 Plaids in 100% Combed Cotton
 CVC and CVS/TC
 Stretch
 Sateen
Finishing:
 Wrinkle Free
 Easy Care
 Peach
 Chintz
 Paper Touch
 Teflon Coated
 Water Repellent
 Waster Resistance
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 Rubberized
Dobby Designes:
 Herringbones,
 Bedford Cords/Coteles,
 Waffles and various structure in 100% Combed Cotton
 CVC and CVS/TC
Yarn Count:
 Ranging from 7 to 120
Knit products:
 Jersey: In 100% Combed Cotton, CVC, CVS/TC, and Lycra mix.

 Polo Pique: In 100% combed Cotton, CVC, CVS/TC and Lycra mix.
 Back Pique: In 100% Combed Cotton and CVC/TC.
 Herringbone: In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
 Popcorn: In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC.
 Bubble Knit: In 100% Combed Cotton, CVC and CVS/TC.
 Crepe: In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC.
 Engineering Stripe: In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
 Feeder Stripe: In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
 Auto Stripe: In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
 Rib: In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
 Jacquard: In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
Denim Products:
 Chambray: In classic indigo colours ranging from 4oz to 5.5oz/Yd2

 Denim (blue): In classic indigo colours ranging from 4oz to 15oz/Yd2
 Denim (black): In sulfur balck colours ranging from 4oz to 15oz/Yd2.
 Colured Denim: In a variety of colours- both in sulfur and reactive dyes (warp
dyed).
 Overdyed Denim: In a variety of colours on indigo blue and sulfur black.
 Blue Denim: In a variety of reactive colours ranging from 10oz to 13oz/Yd2 (piece
dyed)
 Stretch Denim: In classic indigo colours ranging from 4.5 oz to 13.75 oz/yd2
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Special Yarn Products:
Plied Yarn, Fancy Yarn, Slub Yarn (7’s to 20’s), Stretch both Lycra (10’s to 40’s) and
Spandex and other Core Spun, Multi count, Multi Twist etc.
Production of BEXIMCO:
Bextext Ltd. Is one of South Asia’s largest vertically integrated textile and garment
companies with in-house analytical and creative abilities.
 Yarn spinning.
 Fabric weaving
 Processiong and finishing
 Apparel manufacturing.
 Sewing thread & labels manufacturing.
 Printing.
 Embroidering.
 Washing.
 Packaging.
Services of Beximco:
 Supply chain model based on a relationship of trust and simple, short procedures,
 Marketing model based on affordable, quick change fashion.
 Clear projection or commitment and firm booking of capacity.
 Maximize design, product development capability of manufacturer, in
collaborative design process.
 On-spot placement of order after reviewing of designs,
 Focused product development. Higher adoption rate from collection,
 Vertical facility enabling quick response, which allow us to produce from Yarn to
Garment in fifty days and repeat orders in thirty days, leading to reduced
markdowns.
Design Studio – Mission:

 To provide design and product development support from fibre to garments to
leading retailers and brands using integrated manufacturing resources, powerful
CAD tools, technology collaboration with major suppliers (like CIBA, DuPont
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etc) and interface with fashion forward customers, rapidly develop and bring
trendy, innovative differentiated products to our strategic partners evry season,
Our Design Studio works to produce entire collections with Inditex including
womens and mesn clothing, woven and knit tops, causal and denim bottoms and
jackets. We have now introduced a catalogue which will highlight our concept of
complete new looks, products and fabric swatches and we will be sending one of
these to all our key customers almost every eight weeks.
Resources Employed to fulfill the mission:
 25 highly qualified designers who travel the world visiting fairs, interfacing with
the designers of fashion forward customers and competitive buying from well
known fashion outlets.
 150 people working in sewing room dedicated to designe team.
 Dedicated yarn dyeing, warping and wshing facilities for design team.
 Cooperman advanced German networked CAD system.
Buyers of BEXIMCO:
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2nd Chapter
Pretreatment of
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Singeing & Desizing Process
Figure: Singeing & Desizing machine

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Singeing:
Singeing is a part of the pretreatment processes carried out in textile processing, and is
usually the first step carried out after weaving. It is a process of passing an open-width
fabric over a gas flame or hot plate at such a distance and speed that it burns only the
protruding fibers but does not damage the main fabric. The main objective of the singeing
process is to produce a clean fabric surface and reduce tendency by removing the
protruding fibers from the fabric surface. In singeing process the surface of yarn or fabric
in order to improve the luster and smoothness of the material.
Objectives of Singeing:
1. Burning of projecting fibers from yarn/fabric surface.
2. Fabric/yarn surface become smooth, even and clean.
3. To develop maximum luster in the textile materials.
4. Save from uneven dyeing and printing.
5. To make the textile materials suitable for subsequent next process.
There are various methods of singeing:
1. Hot plate singeing

2. Roller singeing
3. Gas flame singeing
Desizing:
Desizing is the process employed to remove the sizing material from the fabric. It is the
first wet processing textile finishing technology used to remove the sizing material from
the fabric.
Objects of Desizing:
i. To remove starch from the fabric.
ii. To increase the absorbency of the fabric.
iii. To increase the lustre of dyeing and printing.
iv. To make the fabric ready for the following subsequent process.
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Types of Desizing:
1. Oxidative Method
a) Bromite Desizing
b) Chlorite Desizing
c) Ammonium Per Sulphate Desizing
2. Hydrolytic Method
a) Rot Steeping
b) Alkali Steeping
c) Acid Steeping
d) Enzymatic Steeping
Enzymatic steeping / Enzymatic Desizing:
The enzymatic Desizing method is a traditional process & most commonly used
nowadays. Following stages complete the whole process:
The chemical used in Desizing process:

HCH (Enzyme) : 7 kg/1000L
FWK (Wetting Agent) : 6 Kg/1000L
VGO (Detergent) : 1 kg/1000L
CSA (Sequestering Agent) : 3 kg/1000L
PH : 6-7.5
Temperature: 500C - 600C
Cold Bleach:
Cold bleach is a process to remove dirt, dust , husk, leaf from the fabric and transform it
into permanent white by chemical treatment in cold condition.
Process Requirement:
Equipment used: Osthoff Singeing and Desizing Machine
Key Accessories:
Forklifter, wooden plate, sewing machine, A-frame or batcher etc. are the key accessories
for Singeing for white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed (PC-015)
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In additionto the aforesaid tools mixing tank, reserve tank, pH meter, polythene paper,
rotation station hand gloves, eye protection galss, clip/fingerclip, etc. are some additional
tools / accessories used for the following fabrics/ process.
i. For all cotton color fabric.

ii. For all cotton/Lycra/TC/CVC/Viscose/Tensile/Linen.
iii. For all cotton color peach finish fabric/color cotton Lycra.
iv. Singeing & Desizing for yarn dyed fabric & Solid-Dyed fabcir.
v. Singeing & Cold Bleach for all cotton-white PC/CVC Fabric.
vi. Only Desizing for PC/CVC?yarn dyed peach finish fabric.
vii. Singeing & Cold-bleach for Bull-Twill (Heavy fabric)
 Materails and Chemical Used.

Stream, compressed air, water, natural gas, desizing agent, wetting agent, sequestering
agent, decorating.
Nature of Fabric Chemicals/Material Used Chemical composition

i) All cotton color Desizing Agent Follow the bulk recipe by
fabric Decarating agent fabric type.
ii) All cotton color Wetting Agent
peach finish fabric, Sequestering Agent
(for only Desizing) Natural gas for burner, N/A
iii) Yarn dyed & Steam, Compressed Air,
PC/CVC fabric Water
iv) White cotton fabric Natural Gas, Water, N/A
& special yarn Compressed Air
dyed fabric (only
for Singeing)
v) PC/CVC fabric (for Wetting Agent/Detergent Follow the bulk recipe by
only Singeing) fabric type.
Sodium per suphate
Decarating & sequestering
agent
Water, Gas, Compressed N/A
Air
vi) PC/CVC/Yarn Desizing Agent Follow the bulk recipe by
dyed peach finish Decarating Agent fabric type.
fabric (Ony for Wetting Agent
Desizing) Sequestering Agent
Steam, Compressed Air, N/A
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Water
vii) Bull-twill i.e heavy Desizing Agent Follow the bulk recipe by
fabric (For Decarating Agent fabric type.
Singeing, Desizing) Wetting Agent
Sequestering Agent
Sodium per oxide, N/A
Steam, Compressed Air,
Water
 Cold Bleach Recipe:

Construction: 156 x 68/16 x 150D + 70D
H2O2(50%) 45 g/l
NaOH (40o Be’) 30 g/l
OKM 8 g/l
WBL 8 g/l
S.FR 1 g/l
NBA 1 g/l
SPS 2 g/l
Construction: 160 x 83/20 x 150D + 40D
H2O2(50%) 45 g/l
OKM 8 g/l
WBL 8 g/l
S.FR 1 g/l
NBA 1 g/l
SPS 2 g/l
Construction: 97 x 73/12 x 75D/2 + 105D
H2O2(50%) 45 g/l
OKM 8 g/l
WBL 8 g/l
S.FR 1 g/l
NBA 1 g/l
SPS 2 g/l
 Safety:
1. During the production process after reaching to the optimum temperature the
operator must stop the steam carefully.
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2. Never touch the gas burner.

3. During the Cold Bleach chemical preparation the operation must wear the gloves
and use the eye protecting glass, gum boot and apron.
Production Procedure:
Recipe for Lycra Poplin:
Flame – 12 m.bar
Speed – 90 m/min
Recepie: Enzyme – 5 gm/l
Wetting – 5 g/l
Decarating – 1 g/l
Sequestering – 1.5 g/l
Heavy Twill (GLM-472):
Enzyme-5
Wetting – 5
Decarating – 1
Sequestering -1
Others:
Enzyme-5
Wetting – 5
Decarating – 1
Sequestering -1
Machine Set-up for Production:

 Machine set-up for all Cotton Color Fabric & Yarn dyed/White:
Described below is the maching set-up for Singeing and desizing for all cotton color
fabric:
Machine set-up Actual parameters Machine set value Machine set value
parameters range (m/c-1) (m/c-2)
Temperature (70 – 80)oC 80 oC (70 – 85) oC
pH or litmus paper (6 – 7.5) 6.5 6.5
Burner position 1,2,3 Position 3rd …..
Chemical Level (700 – 1400) Litre (750 – 800) Litre (1000 – 12000)
Litre)
Reserve Chemical (1000 – 2000) Litre 1000 Litre 1000 Litre
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Flame Intensity (1 – 20) m.bar 8-12 m.bar 7 – 15 m.bar

Pressure (1.3 – 1.5) bar 1.3 bar 1.3 bar
Fabric Position Face or Back Face Face
Burner 1 or 2 2 2
A-frame position Set nicely Set nicely Set nicely
Speed. 0 -120m/min 60-120 m/min 60 – 90 m/min
 Machine Set-up for Lycra Poplin

Machine set-up Actual parameters range Machine set value
parameters
Temperature 85oC 65 oC
pH (6 – 7.5) 6.5
Burner position 1,2,3 Position 3rd
Chemical Level (700 – 1400) Litre (750 – 800) Litre
Reserve Chemical (1000 – 2000) Litre 1000 Litre
Flame Intensity (1 – 20) m.bar 7-13 m.bar
Pressure (1.1 – 1.2) bar 1.3 bar
Fabric Position Face or Back Face
Burner 1 or 2 2
A-frame position Set nicely Set nicely
 Machine Set-up for PC, CVC Fabric and Solid (White & color)
Yarn Dyed Fabric:
The machine set-up for Singeing of white cotton fabric and yarn dyed fabric is
described below:

parameters
Burner 1 or 2 2
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 Machine Set-up for All Cotton Color Peach Finish Fabric:

Described below is the machine set-up for only deszing for all cotton color peach
finish fabric:

parameters
Temperature (70 – 80)oC 80 oC
pH (6 – 7.5) 6.5
 Machine Set-up for Yarn Dyed Fabric and PC/CVC Fabric

The machine set-up for Singeing and desizing of yarn dyed fabric and PC/CVC fabric
is as follows:

parameters (m/c-1)
pH (6 – 7.5) 6.5
Burner position 1,2,3 Position 2nd position for PC
Burner 1 or 2 2
Speed. 0 -120 m/min 60-120 m/min
 Machine Set-up for PC/CVC Fabric:

parameters (m/c-1)
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Burner 1 or 2 2
 Machine Set-up for PC/CVC/Yarn Dyed Peach Finish Fabric:

Described below is the machine set-up for only desizing for PC/CVC/Yarn Dyed
peach finish fabric:

parameters (m/c-1)
pH (6 – 7.5) 6.5
Padder Pressure 0.0 0.9 – 1.1 m.bar
Burner 1 or 2 2,3
 Machine Set-up for Bull-Twill Fabric (Heavy Fabric:

Described below is the machine set-up for Singeing and cold bleach for Bull-Twill i.e
heavy Fabric:

parameters (m/c-1)
Flame Intensity (1 – 20) m.bar 12 m.bar
Padder Pressure 0.0 – 1.5 0.9 - 1 bar
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Burner 1 or 2 3
Speed. 0 -120 m/min 70 m/min
Production Flow chart:
Singeing & Desizing:

Grey fabric report checking
Lay in
Fabric stitching
Chemical Preparig (pH check)
Optimum Temperature rise up
Padder Pressure Setting
Productioin Fabric Stitching with guiding fabric
Singeing & Desizing Start with proper flame intensity
Rotation
Operation Procedure:
The sewing man stitches the fabric with tape fabric. He must be careful in stitching the
face side of a fabric with the face side of the same fabric.
Operator turn the machine (Osthoff Senge) on and sets the machine at desired speed
given below. Processing continue until a frame or a batcher is complete:
Type of fabric Machine speed (m/min)

1. Cotton color (60 – 80)
2. Cotton white (70 – 80)
3. Yarn Dyed 60 – 90)
4. PC/CVC fabric (80 – 90)
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5. Bull-Twill i.e heavy fabric (60 – 70)
After completion of the batcher the operator stops the machine and wraps the batcher
with polythene paper and sets it into the Rotation Station for at least eight to tweleve
hours. Inc case of Singeing and cold bleach of PC/CVC fabric the polythene paper
wrapped batcher is set into the Rotation Station for 24 hrs. But in case of only Singeing
of white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed PC fabric, the batcher need not to set into the
Rotation Station. In the Rotation Station, the batcher rotates and the chemical is
distributed equally in the fabric.
The quality fo product depeds on various parameters like machine speed, temperature,
pressur,e falme intensity, chemical level, burner position and pH value etc. The operator
must check the above parameters carefully during processing to avoid any defect.
Product Quality check:

During production the operator will check frequently the pH level fo the solution by pH
or litmus paper check. The operator also checks the cosmetic defects like projectile hairy
fibre by paralally looking at the fabric, crease on the fabric, fabric position, fabric sewing,
or any other abnormalities that can be detected by naked eyes.
Q.C Sample Test:

Quality Control Department follows the pick-up percent test method to verify the quality
during the process. This is done once in a month or after every maintenance. But in case
of only Singeing of white cotton fabric and yarn dyed PC fabric it is not need. Refer to
the following spec for test methods
Pic-up Percent Test Spec no. 73-303 (Sec. 2.2)
pH Test Spec no. 73-303 (Sec.2.7)
Process Control Tests Spec no 73.-303 (Sec.2.1)

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Response to Equipment Faults:

The responses to the equipment faults of the Osthoff Singeing and Desizing machine are
described below:
Faults Response
1. Sewing problem, wrong drive, 1. Operator should take corrective
wrong fabric guiding, fabric torn. action
2. Fabric wrapped on the roller, 2. Mechanical engineer should be
bearing damage, motor chain torn. called
3. Chemical leak through the bearing. 3. Mechanical engineer should be
4. Suddenly machine stopped, motors called
does not move, machine did not start 4. Electrical engineer should be called
up. 5. Utility engineer should be called.
5. Water, steam, compressed air, gas,
etc. are not available.
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Scouring, Bleaching Process
Figure: Scouring-Bleachine Machine

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Scouring:
Scouring is the process of removing the impurities such as oil, fat, wax dust, and dirt
from the textile material to make it hydrophilic.
Scouring objectives:
1. In order to make the material extremely hydrophilic.

2. A neat material is generated by adding alkaline.
3. For cotton removal of non-cellulosic material.
4. In order to make the textile material prepared for subsequent bleaching.
Bleaching:
Bleaching is a chemical treatment employed for the removal of natural coloring matter
from the substrate. The main purpose of bleaching is to ensure a pure and permanent
basic white color fabric.
Objects Of Bleaching
There are many objects as follows –
1. To remove the grey color.

2. To-make the fabric permanent white and bright.
3. Increase the absorbency power of the cloth.
4. Increase dye affinity.
5. Ensure level dyeing property.
6. Make the fabric suitable for the next subsequent process.
Used of chemical in Scour-Bleaching process with their function:
- H2O2 : It removes dust & wax from the fabric. The most important function is
to remove grey color and make the fabric white.
- Stabilizer: It is used to stabilize the reaction of Hydrogen Peroxide.
- Sequestering Agent: It deactivates the metal ion. It removes the hardness of
water. It makes the water soft.
- Wetting Agent: It reduces the surface tension of fabric. It improves the
wetting property of fabric.
- PH should be 5.5
29
- Temperature: 98oC – 102oC
*The fabric should be steamed for 24 minutes in the steam batch and maintain
temperature at 102oC – 104o4.
Scour & Bleach Recipe:

Fabric Weight Chemicals Chemical Chemical
(gm/m2) Composition (ml/Kg Composition (ml/Kg
of fabric) Without of fabric) With
Conveyor Conveyor
Light Fabrics H 2O 2 (24-30) (15-25)
(100 to 110) (50%)
NaOH (30-34) (16-20)
(40o Be’)
Stabilizer (5-6) (5-6)
Detergent/ (4-5) (4-8)
Wetting Agent
Sequestering Agent (1-2) (1-2)
Medium Fabrics H 2O 2 (40-45) (20-30)
(130 – 260) (50%)
NaOH (40-45) (20-30)
(40o Be’)
Detergent/ (4-8) (7-8)
Wetting Agent
Heavy Fabrics H 2O 2 (40-45) (30-35)
(300 – 500) (50%)
NaOH (40-45) (30-40)
(40o Be’)
Detergent (4-6) (8-10)
Bleaching Recipe according GLM:

(1) Bleaching Recipi for GLM 130-200:
H2O2 (50%) (30-35) g/l
o
NaOH (40 Be’) (20-30) g/l
Stabilizer (6-10) g/l
30
Wetting Agent (6-10) g/l

Seq. Agent (2-6) g/l
(2) Bleaching Recipe for GLM 211-309:
H2O2 (50%) 40 g/l

o
NaOH (40 Be’) 30 g/l
Stabilizer 8 g/l
Wetting Agent 5 g/l
Seq. Agent 1 g/l
H2O2 (50%) (45-50) g/l
o
NaOH (40 Be’) (35-40) g/l
Stabilizer (8-10) g/l
Wetting Agent (8-10) g/l
Seq. Agent 2 g/l
H2O2 (50%) 60 g/l
o
NaOH (40 Be’) 50 g/l
Stabilizer 10 g/l
Wetting Agent 8 g/l
Seq. Agent 2 g/l
Scouring Recipe for PC/CVC :

Chemicals Chemical Composition (ml/Kg of fabric)
Without Conveyor
Light Fabrics
NaOH (40o Be’) (30-40)

Detergent (4-6)
Glauber Salt (10-12)
Heavy Fabrics:
NaOH (40o Be’) (40-60)

Detergent 6
31
Scoured Fabric Bleach Recipe for all white fabrics:

Chemicals Chemical Composition (ml/Kg of fabric)
Without Conveyor
Light Fabrics
H2O2 (15-20)
(50%)
NaOH (15-20)
(40o Be’)
Stabilizer (5-6)
Detergent/ (3-4)
Wetting Agent
Sequestering Agent (1-2)
Heavy Fabrics:
H2O2 (20-25)
(50%)
NaOH (15-20)
(40o Be’)
Stabilizer (6-7)
Detergent/ (3-4)
Wetting Agent
Recipe for all White Fabrics (Re-bleach):

Chemicals Chemical Composition (ml/Kg of
fabric) Without Conveyor
Light, Medium & Heavy Fabrics
H2O2 35
(50%)
NaOH 25
(40o Be’)
Stabilizer (8-12)
Detergent/ (6-8)
Wetting Agent
32
Washing Recipe:
Washing is done with hot water only. Detergent (2-3 gm/Kg of fabric) may be used for
medium and heavy color fabrics. Machine speed is mentioned in the Speed Table in
Section 4.2.1
Titration:
Definition: Titration is a process for identifying the amount of chemical present in the
solution.
Produciton personnel conduct the Titration test every 15 to 20 minutes to control the
process. The test chemicals Reagent, 0.1 HCl, 25% H2SO4, and 0.1 N K2MNO4 are
prepared by the Quality Control group.
Titration Procedure for NaOH:

Take one milimiter sample of the chemical solution from the mixing tank into a conical
falsk. Then add 25 ml of water with the solution and stir for few seconds. Next add 1 to 2
drops of Reagent (Phenolphthalein) into the sample solution: this will turn the solution
into light pink color. Then the conical flask with the sample solution is set under a
Burette containing 0.1N HCl acid. Next HCl acid is added to the sample solution on drop
at a time until the light pink color disappears. The number of 0.1N HCl drops required is
the reading that is used to calculate the amount of NaOH present in the mixing tank.
100%NaOH (gm) per one liter of solution is present in the mixing tank = 4 x Reading.
Titration Procedure for H2O2

Take one millimeter sample of the chemical solution from the mixing tank into a conical
flask. Then add 10 ml of 25% H2SO4 and 15 ml of water with the solution and stir for few
seconds. Then the conical flask with the sample solution is set under a Burette containing
0.1N K2MNO4. Next 0.1N K2MNO4 is added to the sample solution one drop at a time
until the solution turns into light pink color. The number of 0.1N K2MNO4 drops required
is the reading that is used to calculate the amount of H2O2 present in the mixing tank.
100% H2O2 (gm) per one liter of solution is present in the mixing tank = 3.4 x Reading
33
Mercerization Process
Figure: Mercerizing Machine

34
Mercerization Definition:
Mercerisation is a physio-chemical process where cotton fabric is treated with 15-25%

casustic soda solution at a temperature of 20oC—30oC.
Objects of Mercerisation:
1. Increase tensile strength.

2. Improved hygroscopicity.
3. Improved dye affinity.
4. Improved smoothness.
5. Improved luster.
6. Improve dimensional stability and physical compactness
7. 20-30% dye and chemical save while dyeing after mercerizing.
*Bume: It indicates the density of NaOH. The Bume is kept about 28 while cotton fabric
mercerizing.
Equipment Used: The Goller Mercerizing Range machine.
Key Accessories:
The necessary tools or accessories used for the mercerizing process are given below:
Sewing machine, sewing thread, cylinder, Baume meter, A-fram, handle for carriage,
mixing tank, reserve tank, hand gloves, eye protecting glass, fibre/fabric clip etc:
The following fabrics go through the mercerizing process:
(a) All cotton fabric

(b) TC/CVC fabric
(c) Bull Twill fabric
(d) Lycra
Materials/Chemicals Used.:
35
The materials and chemicals used for the Goller Mercerizing Range Machine for all
Cotton fabric, TC or CVC fabric and Bull Twill and Lycra fabric are described below:
Chemicals/Materials Used Chemical Composition

0
Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) 28 Be’ (Baume)
215 gm/l [See note below for details]
Acetic Acid (99%) 5% of total water
Wetting Agent (if required) 3 gm/l
4 gm/l [for Canvas, CN082]
Compressed Air As required
Steam, Water As required
Note: Density & concentration of caustic soda (NaOH) at 150C.
Baume (0 Be’) Gm NaOH 100% (per 1 lit NaOH

solution)
20 166.7
24 213.7
28 267.4
30 269.8
38 441.0
40 484.1
Safety Measures:
1. During the production process after reaching to the optimum temeperature the
operator must stop the steam carefully. He must be very careful before opening the
window of the washing chamber after the production process.
2. Operator must be cautios in handling acid and Caustic Soda (NaOH) and use hand
gloves, eye-protecting glass for safety.
3. The operator should not insert the hand between the rollers.
Production Procedure
Operation Staff: Operator, Production Officer, Assistant Manager, In-charge Preparation.
Machine Set-up:
Described below is the machine set up for mercerizing process:
Machine Set-up Parameters Actual Parameter Range Machine Set Value

Temperature of washing (90 – 95)oC 90 Co
36
chamber
Temperature of caustic (18 – 28) oC (18 -28) oC
chamber
Fabric position Face or back Face
pH (6-8) (4 – 5.5)
Reserve Chemical Caustic (6000 – 8000) Litr
Reserve Acid (for all
cotton, TC or CVC fabric)
Pressure Squeezer of (2 -3) bar (2 – 3.5) bar fro all cotton

Impregnation I & II TC & CVC
3 bar for Butt-twill fabric.
Tension (% fabric) (3 -4) bar 3 for all cotton fabric & TC
fabric
Padder Pressure of Washing (1.5 -5) bar (2-4) bar
Compensator Pressure (1.5 – 5) bar (2 -3) bar
Productin Process Flow Chart:

Imprination -1&2 fill up with strong lye (Caustic Solution 280 Be’)
Temperature rise up at Washing Bath
Acid tank fill up with acid and pH controller set
Start – Mercerize
Wash properly and neutral with acid
Next process
Checklist Before production:

Operator must check the following items before starting mercerizing process of all cotton
fabric, TC/CVC fabric or twill fabric; Lycra
Operator turns the machine (Goller Mercerizing Range machine) on and sets the maching
at the desired speed given below. Processing continue until a frame or a batcher is
complete or there arise any problem e.g electrical, mechanical ro utility problem.
37
Type of Fabric Machine Speed (mit/min)

All Cotto Fabric (40 -50)
Heavy 40
Medium (40 – 50)
TC or CVC fabric (40 -50)
Bull-Twill fabric (35 -40)
The flow chart of the Mercerizing process is given below:
The quality of the product depends on various machine parameters e.g the machine
speed, pressure, temperature, pH, chemical level, tension etc. Operator must check these
parameters every 10 minutes and also check the flow of the chemicals frequently through
the pump.

The response to equipment faults of the Goller mercerizing Range machine are as
follows:
Faults Response
1. Sewing problem, wrong drive, fabric 1. Operator/helper should take
38
torn, wrong fabric-guiding etc. corrective action.

2. Fabric wrapped on the roller, Motor 2. Mechanical engineer should be
chain torn, chain torn, bearing called
damage. 3. Electrical engineer should be called .
3. Suddenly machine stops, Motor does 4. Utility Engineer should be called.
not move, drive error.
4. Water, steam, compressed air,
electricity etc. are not available.
39
3rd Chapter
Dyeing section of
40
DYEING LINE
MACHINES APPICATON FUNCION MANUFACTURERR
PAD-DRY- REACTIVE DYEING
THERMOFIX PIGMENT DYEING
THERMOSOL
PAD-DRY- VAT PIGMANTATION MONFORTS-GERMANY
RANGE-1, 2
CURING SOLUBL DYEING
PAD-DRY DISPERSE DYEING
VAT DEVEOPMENT
REDUCTION
CEALNING REACTIVE
DYEING
PAD STEAM PAD STEAM
CHEMICAL PAD GOELLER-GERMANY
RANGE DYEING
STEAMING
WASHING AFTER
DYEING
NEUTRALIZATION
COLD PAD PAD BATCH REACTIVE DYEING
MONFORTS-GERMANY
BATCH DYEING CHEMICAL DYEING
REACTIVE/VAT/SUPHER
DYEING
EXHASUT REDUCTION CEANING
JIGGER GOLLER-GERMANY
DYEING VAT
DEVEOPMENT/WASHIN
G
UNIFIX DYES
REMOVING
RAMISCH
WASHING CONTINUOUS SALT/RESIDUAL
KEINEWEFERS
RANGE WASHING CHEMICA CLEANING
GERMANY
FABRIC
NEUTRALIZATION
What is Dyeing?
Dyeing is th or pigments on textile materials such as fibers, yarns, and fabrics with the
goal of achieving color with desired color fastness. Dyeing is normally done in a special
solution containing dyes and particular chemical material. Dye molecules are fixed to the
fiber by absorption, diffusion, or bonding with temperature and time being key
controlling factors. The bond between dye molecule and fiber may be strong or weak,
depending on the dye used.
Methods of Dyeing:
There are mainly three:
41
1. Exhaust Dyeing
2. Semi-Continuous Dyeing
3. Continuous Dyeing
Different types of Dyeing Machine & Description:

Thermosol Machine:
Machine Name Thermosol
Brand Name Monforts Monfortex
Origin Germany
Manpower 18
Production range 15000 m/day
M/C speed Range 20-25 m/min for heavy fabric
35-40 m/min for light fabric
Temperature 180-1900C for heavy fabric
150-1600C for light fabric
No. of nozzle 28
Level of dyeing bath (0-500%) for P-TH-1 & manual P-TH-2
Process selector switch Pad batch/continuous
Speed variable knob for VTG-1&2 (0-100%), v% & M%
IR Section-1:
 Speed (0-100) m/min %
 Intensity (20-100)P%
IR Section-:
 Speed (0-100) m/min %
 Intensity (20-100)P%
Padder pressure (0-4) Bar
Speed (rpm) (0-120) m/min
Temp of thermex (1-3) 0-2500C
Blower fan setting for thermex No-3 Low/High
Position of main damper thermex (1-3) (0-6) division
Position of exhaust damper thermex(1-3) (0-6) division
Position of air flow knob of thermex (1-3) +- 8 division
Pneumatic pressure of guiders 0-10 Bar
Pneumatic pressure of compensators (0-6) Bar
Gas pressure for IR-section 0 – 40 m/Bar or max. 20 m/Bar
Gas pressure for burners 0 – 250 m/Bar
Postion of PIV gear box for traction drive 0 – 6 Bar
& windows
Air pressure 0 – 10 Bar
Used utilities Gas
42
Product quality check Shade check, cosmetic defects, shade

variation
QC sample test QC checks the shade & listing test duration
operation. QC also check the parameters.
Dyeing Recipe:
Dyes Dyestuffs
Ingredients (0.5-5) g/l (5.01-10) g/l (10-50) g/l 50 g/l
Reactive Urea 50 75 100 150
(PDB) Primazol NF 2 2 2 2
Primazol V 10 10 10 10
Gluber salt 10 10 10 10
Soda ash 10 15 20 25
Reactive Primazol NF 2 2 2 2
(PDD Primazol V 10 10 10 10
steam) Gluber salt 10 10 10 10
CPS Glauber salt 200 200 250 250

Soda ash 10 10 15 15
Caustic flacks 15 5 8 10
Disperse Primazol V 10 10 10 10
Steamol BL 2 2 1 1
Acetic Acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Pigment Primazol V 10 10 10 10
Siligen FA 10 10 10 10
Vitexol PFF 5 5 5 5
Kerolin Jet B 2 2 2 2
Binder 10 25 40 70
Jigger Machine:
Machine Name Jigger
Brand name Goller
Origin Germany
Manpower 6
Produciton range 3000 m/day
M/C speed range 40 – 80 m/min or as required
Temperature 50 – 60oC
Liquor level 520 L
43
Fabric position Face

A-fram position Set properly
Availability of sewing thread 2 – 3 cones
Used utilites Gas
Product Quality check Check for cosmetic defects such as spots on
the fabric crease mark on the fabric, fabric
position, fabric sewing , selvedge torn or
any other abnormalities that can be
detected visually.
QC sample test Shade check, wash fastness, rubbing
fastness, water fastness, light fastness
tensile strength, tear strength, crease
recovery, abrasion test.
Cold Pad Machine:

Machine Name Cold-pad
Brand name Monforts Monfortex
Origin Germany
Manpower 6
M/C speed range 28-35 m/min or as required
No of Padder 4
A-fram position Set properly
Availability of sewing thread 2 – 3 cones
Used utilites Gas
the fabric, crease mark on the fabric, fabric
detected visually.
44
Pad Steam Machine:

Machine Name Pad Steam
Brand name Goller
Origin Germany
Manpower 21
Produciton range 10000 – 250000 m/day
M/C speed range 28-35 m/min or as required
No of Padder 2
Number of chamber Set properly
Availability of sewing thread 8
Used utilites Gas
Product Quality check Shade check, cosmetic defects, shade
variation..
QC sample test QC checks the shade & listing test duration
operation. QC also check the parameters.
Washing Machine:
Machine Name Washing Machine
Brand name Ramisch Kleinewefers
Origin Germany
Manpower 9
M/C speed range 25 m/min or as required
Water Level Always full
Fabric position Face/Back
Pressure for squeezer 1 – 2 Bar
Compensator pressure 2.5 – 3 Bar
Used utilites Gas
the fabric, crease mark on the fabric, fabric
detected visually.
45

4th Chapter
Finihsing of
BEXOMCO TEXTILE LIMITED
46
Heat Setting & Stretching Process in

Stenter Machine
Figure: Stenter Machine

47
Process Flowchart
Step:
1. Stretching: For Mercerizing, Peach, Dyeing & CSR
2. Heat Setting: For Mercerizing, Stretching & Dyeing
3. Finishing: Soft Finish, Ease care, Dry cross, Wrinkle
Free, Super soft, Water-repellant/Soil
Release, Moist cure Finish etc.
4. Peach: Follow customer standard & sample
development.
5. Calendar: Follow customer standard.
6. CSR: For Shrinkage Control ( Match to Sample
Development )
Finishing Definition:
A fabric finishing process is a process for providing specific quality to the fabric that is
required by the customer; for example – soft, wrinkle free, etc.
Refinishing & Topping:

Refinishing and topping is a repetitive finishing process to Cotton fabric, TC fabric and
Yarn Dyed fabric to minimize the dyeing as per the customer swatch and if necessary
some pigment dyes are used for the purpose.
Equipment: Monforts Stenter machine-1, 2, 3
Key Accessories:
Two electronic measuring balances, two beakers, pH papers (3 – 12), sewing machines,
pinning brush.
Materials / Chemical Used:

48
The material and chemicals used in the Stenter machine for TC fabric, 100% cotton and
Twill fabric finishing as well as re-finishing process are described below. A sequence of
chemical pouring is used in the wrinkle-free finished fabric to avoid unwanted chemical
reactions.
Heat Setting & Stretching Definition:

Heat setting is a mechanical process before dyeing of TC and CVC fabric to give
dimensional stability and shrinkage control. Whereas Stretching is also a mechanical
process before dyeing of all cotton fabric to remove crease marks and to get required
width for the next process.
Equipment: Monforts Stenter Machine
Key Accessories:
The necessary tools / accessories used for the Heat Setting and Stretching process are as
follow:
Pinning Brush, measuring tapes, one sewing machine, Pin set, Clip set.
Materials / Chemicals used

Sometimes wetting agents (e.g Mixture of surface active compound) are used as chemical
for the Heat Setting and Stretching process.
Safety Measures:
 Do not wear loos dress.
 Do not insert hands between the rollers during production.
 Don’t touch the Padder.
 Don’t touch Batcher winding roller.
 Be careful in handling batcher handle.
 Don’t touch pins b.ar /Clip bar.
 Don’t open the window of the Stenter chamber during production.
In charge Finishing, Assistant Manager, Production officer, Operators.
49
Machine Set-up:
Described Below is the machine set-up for the Stenter machine for TC fabric. Cotton,
Poplin and other light fabric heat setting and stretching process for white and colored
fabric:
Check List Set-up Range Set Value

Mangle Pressure (2 – 6) bar 4 bar
Temperature for heat setting (180 – 220)oC (170 – 205)oC
Temperature for stretching (150 -180)oC (130 – 160)oC: for polyester
dyeing
(150 -180)oC: for white fabric
emerizing & dyeing
Blower fan setting Low and high High
Blower fan setting for Low and high Low
stretching of yarn dyed
fabric.
Exhaust fan setting Auto or normal Auto
Width of machine chain (70 – 180) cm (Desired width+8cm) for pin
setting (Desired width+6 cm) for clip
Over feed (in case of pin) (0 -18)% (5-10)%
Pleva setting program for (4.5 to 5.5)% 5%
TC “0”
Fabric pneumatic guide bar (0 -2) bar 0.5 bar
pressure
Machine pins / clips Not applicable Pins (for TC fabric)
Clips (for Cotton)
Burner gas pressure 20 ml (fixed) 20 ml
Machine speed (7 -120) meter / minute (40 – 65) m/min
Depends on the GSM of fabric
(e.g light, heavy etc)
Bianco Program No. (1 to 10) Depends on fabric structure
For Heat Setting:
First fabrics pass through various tension rollers, draw rollers, guide rollers trough (fill
water), padder, bianco, pinning shoes, pins and brushes. Then fabrics are entered into
drying and thermosol unit by pins track. Pins track transfers fabrics in delivery unit and
wrapped on batcher. Mainly heat setting occurs in the area of thermosoling unit. To get
50
better heat setting more overfeed applied on fabrics. In case of poor absorbency some
wetting agent are used in trough.
For Stretching:
First fabrics pass through various draw rollers, tension rollers, guide rollers trough (filled
water), padder, bianco. Then fabrics are entered into drying chamber by clips truck. Clips
truck carries the fabric in delivery unit and wrapped on batcher. Fabrics are stretched by
clips both Ward and Weft way. Drying chambers used for drying fabric.
In case of poor absorbency some wetting agents are used in trough with mixing of water.
Preparation of Chemicals for heat Setting and Stretching (if required)
Only (1 or 2) gm/l wetting agent is added in 400 liter solution in the mixing tank of the
machine.
Product Quality Check:

Fault Check:
The operator checks the weaving faults (i.e double yarn, warp and weft missing, yarn
contamination etc.), spinning faults (i.e thick and thin places checking) and other faults
(i.e dye resist mark, stop mark, bend mark, chemical spots dropping mark, listing, torn
and hole, fabric structure etc.) during the process.
When minor faults occur within 30 miter of fabric (while running about 300 to 500 meter
fabric) which is not resulted from previous process and also recorded on the Process route
card, the necessary action to be taken are as follows:
 Checks the feed side batcher to make sure that these faults did not occur from
previous process.
 Stops the machine to identify whether these faults are occurring due to machine
fault or the faults are due to the chemicals (checks cleanliness of machine
parameter and chemical composition)
Width Check:
51
In case of wrinkle-free yarn dyed fabric, the width is maintained exactly according to the
final fabric width.
 Measures fabric width by using a measuring tape.

 In case of heat setting and stretching width checking are 5 to 6 cm more than the
normal finished width.
Designe and Fabric Bow Check
 In the delivery side the operator checks the design and bow, adjust the machine for
checking the stripe by straightening the weft of the fabric.
Pin setting check (for TC and Yarn Dyed fabrics)
 Checks at the delivery side if the selvedge of fabric is set in pins correctly.
Clips Checking (for 100% cotton & Twill fabrics)
 Checks the feeding side i.e the setting of fabric on the clips.
QC Sample Test: Not Applicable

Following are the response to equipment faults of the Stenter machine:
Machine Faults Response

Pinning shoe problem Mechanical engineer should be called.
Pinning brush problem Mechanical engineer should be called.
Electric sensor selvedge problem Electrical engineer should be called.
Chain stops Electrical engineer should be called .
J – box compensator problem Electrical engineer should be called.
Clips jamming (in case of 100 % cotton & Mechanical engineer should be called.
Twill fabric)
Chain width disturbance Electrical/Mechanical engineer should be
called.
Fabric clearing disc. Problem (for 100% Mechanical engineer should be called.
cotton & Twill fabric)
Burner, blower fan, motor problem Electrical / Mechanical engineer should be
called.
52
Finishing Process in Stenter Machine

Nature of fabric Chemicals / Materials used
(The Chemical sequence no. is given in the
left of wrinkle-free finished fabric)
1. White Fabric Cotton OBA (Obtical Brightening Agent),
(soft) Polyester Cotton OBA,
Softener,
Tinting Agent.
2. White Fabric i) Softener
(Wrinkle free & easy care) ii) Cotton OBA (Optical Brightening
Agent)
iii) Polyester Cotton OBA
iv) pH adjusted with Acetic Acid
v) Resin [Depends on fabric weight, i.e
Below 110 gm/m is recognized as
light (110 -300 gm/m is medium
fabric, & (300 -500) gm/m is heavy
fabric.]
vi) Wetting Agent (When chemical
absorbency is poor),
vii) Tinting Agent,
viii) Additive (if required),
ix) Catalyst (15% - 25% of resin).
3. Coloured Fabric Softener,
(soft) Dye Fixer (It is used according to the color
fastness),
pH adjusted with Acetic Acid,
Anti foam, for 100% Cotton and Twill
fabric (for deep shade.)
4. Colored fabric Softener,
(Wrinkle free) Resin,
Wetting Agent (When chemical absorbency
is poor),
53
pH adjusted with Acetic Acid,

Dye fixer,
Catalyst (15% - 25% of resin)
5. Yarn Dyed Softener,
(soft) Acetic Acid of pH adjustment,
OBA, as per requirements
6. Yarn Dyed Softener,
(Ultra soft) Acetic Acid for pH adjustment,
OBA, as per requirements.
Nature of fabric Chemicals / Materials used
7. Yarn Dyed i) Softener

(Wrinkle free and Easy care) ii) Additive
iii) Resin
iv) Wetting Agent
v) OBA (if required)
vi) pH adjusted with Acetic Acid
vii) Catalyst (15% to 25% of Resin).
8. Coloured Fabric 1. Stiffening Agent
(Hard finish and Shiny finish) 2. Wetting Agent
3. Additive
4. Resin
5. Catalyst
6. Acetic Acid
7. Dye Fixer (if required)
9. White Fabric Stiffening Agent
(Hard finish and Shiny finish) Wetting Agent
Additive
Resin
Catalyst
Acetic Acid
OBA
10. Water Repellent 1. Hydrophobic Agent

2. Stiffening Agent
3. Softener
4. Acetic Acid
Safety:
54
 Do not wear loos dress

 Do not insert hands between the rollers during production.
 Don’t touch the Padder.
 Don’t touch Batcher winding roller.
 Be Careful in handling batcher handle.
 Don’t touch pins bar / clip bar.
Machine Set-up:
Described below is the machine set-up for the Stenter machine for TC fabric, Twill
fabric, 100% Cotton fabric, Cotton Poplin and other light fabric finishing, re-finishing
process for white and colored fabric:
Checklist Set-up Range Set Value

Mangle Pressure (2 -6) bar Depends on pickup
Temperature setting (60 – 250)0C According to the shade
(references are taken from
program register)
Temperature [for re- (120 – 180)0C According to the shade
finishing] (references are taken from
program register)
Blower fan setting [for Low and High High
solid dyed fabric]
Blower fan setting [for Low and High Low
yarn dyed fabric]
Exhaust fan setting Auto or manual Manual
Width of machine chain (70 – 180) cm (Desired width+8 cm) – in
setting case of pin
(Desired width + 6 cm) – in
case of clip
Over feed (0 – 18)% As required
Pleva setting program for (4.5 to 5.5)% As required

TC “0”
Fabric pneumatic guide (0 -2) bar 0.5 bar
bar pressure
Machine pins / clips Not applicable Pins (for Light fabric)
Clips (for Heavy fabric)
Burner gas pressure 20 ml (fixed) 20 ml
55
Machine speed (7 -120) meter / minute Light shade: (40-100) m/min

Dark shade: (40-100) m/min
Light/Soft finished fabric: (40-
100) m/min
Twill fabric: (30-50) m/min
Wrinkle-free fabric: (40-50)
m/min
Bianco Program No. (1 to 10) Depends on fabric structure
Operation Procedure for White Fabric Finishing (Soft):
The pilot Plant (Laboratory) provides customer-approved swatch with recipe of the white
fabric to the finishing department whereas Preparation department provides the bleached
fabric. The finishing procedure begins with the calculation the recipe, temperature or
machine speed is adjusted from the references of Program Register and the shade
scanning report and the same trial process repeats until it matches with the customer
approved sample.
For the bulk production chemical solution is prepared from the formula mentioned above
and poured into the mixing tank one batch at a time. The capacity of each batch is 400
liter.
Operation Procedure for White Fabric Finishing (Wrinkle Free) :
The operation procedure of white fabric wrinkle free finishing is same as white fabric soft
finishing process except the chemical composition. Some new chemicals (Resin,
Catalyst, Wetting chemical, Acetic Acid, and Additive) are added here.
Operation Procedure for Colored Fabric Finishing (Soft):
Planning department provides the customer – approved swatch and the Dyeing
department provides the fabric to the finishing department. Then a recipe is prepared
based on the references of the chemical literature book of the chemical company,
Program register, and data color of Pilot Plant (laboratory)
The process starts from the calculation of solution amount and is same as white fabric
(soft) finishing process. The only difference here is the pick up percent which is 47% -
50%, and the chemical stirring time in the mixing tank which is 2 – 3 minutes.
Operation Procedure for Colored Fabric Finishing (Wrinkle free):

56
The operation procedure of colored fabric wrinkle free finishing is same as colored fabric
soft finishing process except the chemical composition. Some new chemicals (Resin,
Catalyst, Wetting Agent, and Acetic Acid) are added here.
Finishing Process in Sanforizing

Machine
Figure: Sanforizing Machine

57
Definition: Sanforizing
Sanforizing is a mechanical treatment of fabric (e.g Cotton, CVC fabric, viscoss, Lawn,
Tinsel, Polyester-Lycra, Cotton-Lycra etc) in the Sanforizing machine for shrinking of
soft fabric (i.e Cotton viscose, Lawn, Tinsel, Polyester-Lycra, Cotton-Lycra and CVC
fabric) and transforming the fabric into mainly shrinkage control soft, glossy and smooth
fabric for end use.
Equipment: Monforts Sanforizing machine.
Key Accessories:
The necessary tolls / accessories used for the Sanforizing Machine are as follows: Sewing
machine, measuring tape, white papers.
Materials / Chemical used: No chemical is used for Sanforizing machine.
Safety Measures:
 Do not wear loose dress.
 Don’t touch the damping roller.
 Be careful in handling the batcher-winding roller.
 Don’t touch rubber belt and blanket during running machine.
 For any unexpected accident press the emergency button.
 Never touch the electrical switch without electrician.
 Never touch the panel board without the help of engineer or officer.
 Carefully handle the batcher in while inserting and releasing after the operation
procedure.
Operation Staff:
In-charge Finishing, Assistant Manager, Shift In charge, Operators.
Machine Set-up:
58
Described below is the machine set-up for the Sanforizig machine for Cotton, Lycra,
Tencil, Viscoss etc, CVC fabric is described below:
Check-list Set-up Range Set value

Steam pressure for (0 – 5) bar 1.5 bar
Damping Roller
Water pressure for spraying (0 – 5) bar 2.5 bar
before Damping Roller
Over Feed (0 – 10) % (2 – 5)%
As Required Loose
Rubber belt pressure (0 – 18) bar (5 – 9) bar
Rate of water spraying on __ As Required
rubber belt
Steam pressure for rubber (0 – 3) bar (0 – 2) bar or less than 2
belt
Rubber belt tension (0 – 10) bar Depends on belt thickness
Air pressure for Felt belt (0 – 6) bar 4.5 bar
(blanket)
Steam pressure for Felt belt (0 – 6) bar (3 – 5) bar
Pressure for Winding (0 – 10) bar (0 – 4) bar
Batcher
 The operator sets the feed side batcher and checks the shrinkage of the fabric by a
special type of scale and the fabric is guided up to the Damper. The fabric passes
through the friction and heat of th rubber belt region and also through the felt
calendar region of the Sanforizing machine.
 The empty batcher is set to the rear end of the rotation station.
 During the process the operator stops the machine to check the shrinkage of the
fabric at the rear end. If the shrinkage setting all right then the bulk production
continues and if there is any deviation in the shrinkage setting then the setting
pressure and roller pressure are adjusted.
 For wrinkle free fabric the shrinkage is controlled by resin finishing and then
passed through the calendar region for getting soft, glassy and smooth finish
quality as a final product.
 The quality of the fabric depends on various parameters discussed in the checklists
of above section. The operator must check those parameters carefully during the
process to avoid any defects.
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Product Quality Check:

Fault check:
The operator checks the weaving faults (i.e double yarn, warp and weft missing, yarn
contamination etc.), spinning faults (i.e thick and thin places checking and other faults
(i.e dy resist mark, stop mark, bend mark, chemical spots dropping mark, listing, torn and
hole, fabric structure etc.) during the process.
When minor faults occur within 30 meter of fabric (while running about 300 to 500 meter
fabric) which is not resulted from previous process and also not recorded on the process
route card, the necessary actions to be taken are as follows:
 Checks the feed side batcher to make sure that these faults did not occur from
previous process.
 Stops the machine to identify whether these faults are occurring due to machine
fault.
Width Check:
Measure fabric width by using a measuring tape and compares with the required finished
width that is mentioned in Process Route Card. In case of wrinkle free yarn dyed width
checking is 2 cm less than the normal finished width.
Design and Fabric Bow Check (for Yarn Dyed fabric):
In the delivery side the operator checks the design and bow, adjusts the machine for
checking the stripe by straightening the weft of the fabric.
Q.A Sample Test:

One meter sample fabric is cut from each batch (which represents the bulk) and sends to
the Quality Assurance Laboratory for test. The Shade Continuity Card is attached with
the sample for the Q.A sample test. Q.A department does the Physical test, Chemical tests
and analysts the tests and notes the results in Fabric Test Results..
60
During scanning of Twil fabric in data color machine the sample must be set vertically
warp-wise. Refer to specification no 83-201, Section 5.0 for details of the methods of
sample scanning.

Machine Faults Response
Compensator problem Electrical / Mechanical engineer should be
called.
Air pressure valve problem Mechanical engineer should be called.
Rubber belt surface cracking or rough Mechanical engineer should be called.
surface problem
Batching roller, feed roller compensator, Mechanical engineer should be called.
felt moving steam problem
61
Finishing Process in Emerizing

Machine
Figure: Emerizing Machine

62
Definition: Peach Finish

Emerizing is a mechanical treatment of fabric in the emerizing machine for giving the
fabric a soft hairy appearance by protruding the fibre from the fabric surface. Peach
Finish can be done either before or after dyeing process. In any case, before mercerizing
fabric must be stretched and stitched.
Equipment: The Emerizing machine
Key Accessories:
The necessary tools or accessories used for peach finish are as follows:
Wooden plate, measuring tape, sewing machine, scissors, gauge meter, thickness meter
etc.
Materials / Chemical used:

Emery Sticks and Emery paper and brush with different grades are used in this process.
Chemicals are not used directly on the Emerizing Machine.
Safety Measures:
 Always use ear plug.
 Careful handle of batchers while inserting and releasing after the operation
procedure.
 Use mask for dust protection.
 Don’t wear loose dress.
 Fon any accident press the emergency button.
 Never touch the electrical switch without electrician.
 Never touch the Panel board without the help of engineer or officer.
 Don’t touch the emery stick.
Operation Staff:
Production Officer, Senior Operator, Operator, Helper.

63
Machine Setup :
Machine set-up Actual Parameter Range Machine Set Value
Parameters
Emery sticks roller setting. (3 – 5) 3 for light fabric
5 for heavy fabric
Emery sticks setting (50 – 60) 60
Exhaust fan setting Auto or Normal Manual
Machine speed (22 – 30) m/min As Required
Roller pressure (0 – 40) As Required
Emery paper gauge (180 – 220) 120 – 180 for heavy peach
(400 – 600) 220-240 for light peach
Emer paper change cycle (20000 – 35000) 20000 M for heavy fabric
35000 M for light fabric
 The operators put fabric in the machine manually.
 The operator starts the machine and turn on emery rollers and exhaust fan switch.
 Fabrics pass through the metallic frictional emeric surface of the roller that causes
lifting of fibres from the body of fabric.
 Rollers slide both ways slightly to avoid unequal Emerizing effect . If crease is
developed then that portion will not be emerized and the fabric needs to be
stretched again. In case of light fabric three of the five rollers operate while in case
of heavy fabric all five rollers are in operation.
 The ventilation-switch removes the waste made during Emerizing and keeps it in a
dustbin beside the machine.
 After Emerizing the fabrics is piled in the delivery side plate and send to the next
process.
Q.C Sample Check:

One-meter fabric is cut from each 1000 meter and sent to Q.C for thickness test by
thickness meter and G.S.M by the electric balance. Thickness test is done in three places
of fabric.

Following are the responses to equipment faults of the Emerizing machine:
64
Faults Response
Brush Emery Mechanical engineer should be called.
Emery sticks damage Mechanical engineer should be called.
Emery roller damage Mechanical engineer should be called.
Chain loose Mechanical / Electrical engineer should be
called.
Compressor problem Mechanical engineer should be called.
Folding roller belt torn Electrical engineer should be called.
Motor fault Electrical engineer should be called.
Machine speed variation problem Electrical engineer should be called.
65
Finishing Process in Calendar Machine

Definition:
Calender Process:
In fabric finishing process calendar plays an important role in achieving effects like
smoothing effects, lusture effects, handle effects. In this process, fabric is passed through
a machine in which heavy rollers (bowls) rotate in contact under mechanical or hydraulic
pressure.
Four types of calendaring are done here:
a. Chintz calendar (smoothig effect-with paper roll and steel roll)

b. Ironing (Soft , smoothing and glazing effect with steel roll)
c. Calendering for smooth surface (Mating effect with cotton)
d. Calendering (Soft and smoothing effect with cotton roll, paper
roll and steel roll)
Equipment: The Ramisch Calender machine.
Key Accessories:
The necessary tools or accessories used for Calender finish are as follows: Sewing
machine, gauge meter, temperature measuring sensor etc.
Materials / Chemicals used:
Chemicals are not used on the Calender Machine.
Safety Measures:
 Never wear loose dress.
 Do not touch steel roller.
 Handle the batchers carefully while inserting and releasing after the
operation procedure.
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 For any accident press the emergency button.

 Do not touch the electrical switch without electrician.
 Don’t touch the Panel board without the help of engineer or officer.
 Do not insert hands between the rollers while production.
Production Procedure: Supervising Officer, Operator, Helper.
Machine Set-up:
Described below is the machine set up for the Calender machine for 100% cotton, TC,
CVC fabric:
Machine Set-up Parameters Actual Parameters Range

Steam pressure for steel bowl As required
Pressure for cotton bowl (100 – 200) Kn
Pressure for paper bowl (100 – 200) KN
Temperature (50 – 150)0C
Speed (15 – 30) m/min
Tension roller setting position 1,2,3 – depends on bowl used
Seam Distance (72 – 120)
 The operator feed in fabric manually through guide, tension, bowl and
roller.
 The machine is started.
 According to the required degree of flattening, the surface pressure of bowl
and the speed are adjusted.
 Due to the construction and nature of the steel bowl and resilient bowl, the
fabric is stretched and compressed, which it passes through the nip. Thus
smoothness of fabric configuration is achieved.
 In case of steel roller, the fabric passes through a pair of roller (air cooling)
situated at the back of the machine.
 The fabric is roller in the delivery-side batch roller or plate.
 Then the fabric is sent to the next stage of finishing or to the inspection
department.
Q.C Sample Test:

67
One meter sample is cut from each 1000 meter and send to QC for smoothness test,
lusture test in the light box, GSM test, fabric structure test.

Following are the responses to equipement faults of the Calender machine:
Faults Response
Roller pressure uneven Mechanical engineer should be called.
Steam pressure fault Mechanical engineer should be called.
Change rotation direction of roller Mechanical engineer should be called.
Chain loose Mechanical / Electrical engineer should be
called.
Compressor problem Mechanical engineer should be called.
Motor fault Electrical engineer should be called.
Any type of electrical fault Electrical engineer should be called.
Machine / Area Cleaning:

 Clean the panel board with a dry piece of cloth.
 The maintenance department cleans the electronic part inside the panel
board every week.
 The maintenance department cleans the gearing parts by a dry piece of
cloth and use oil on these parts.
 Clean the dusts between the rollers and on other parts of the machine with
air-spray.
 Clean the rollers with detergent.
68
5th Chapter
Quality Control of
69
Quality Assurance System:

The quality department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the
material in process and various stages of its manufacturing.
 Research
 Selection of raw materials
 Process control
 Process development
 Product testing
 Specification test
Quality Assurance at different stages:
Beximco textile Ltd. assures the quality of the products of dyeing section in the following
three steps….
1. In laboratory,
2. In dyeing section &
3. In finishing section.
In laboratory:
 Swatch card from buyer according to their requirement,
 Recipe prediction for sample dyeing,
 Sample dyeing until matching with swatch card,
 Fastnes and other tests of the fabric or yarn are done here:
In dyeing section:
 According to the buyer’s sample, sample dyeing is done in sample dyeing
machine in dyeing shed & again matched with the approved sample,
 If result is OK then bulk production
 During dyeing, samples are taken until accurate shade matching. The
interval may be 30-40 minutes.
 After dyeing sample is collected after softening matching is done.
70
 The sample is collected after fixation & matched,

 Then allowed the fabrics to be finished.
In finishing section:
 By using series of finishing machines correct width, softness & appearance
are maintained according to requirements
 Then sampling is doen for several times to test GSM, shrinkage & fastness
properties,
 Finally fabric is inspected & prepared for delivery.
Quality management system:

Different types of fastness test of the dyed fabric are done in quality control department
of th Beximco Textile Ltd. Different types of method are fllowed for different types of
tests.
There are two types of quality assurances. They are –
1. On line test
2. Off line test
Lab Machines:
Threads per Inch:
 M/c used: Thread counter
 Manufacturer James H. Head & Company, Halifax, England
 Person responsible: Lab assistant
 Frequency: Every order
 Performance standard: +- 5%
 Incase of non-conformity: Refinish
 Procedure: 1 square inch samples are taken from a fabric, these samples are
taken on from the left, one from the right & other from the center threads of
each samples are counted both weft & warp wise.
 Documents/Forms used: Tests results for 100% cotton finished fabric
Tests results for PC, CVC finished fabric,
Tests results for other customer’s finished fabrics.
71
Fabric Weight:
 M/C used: GSM cutter
 Manufacturer: James H. Heal & Company, Halifax, England
 Performance standard: According to buyers standard
 Incase of non-conformity: To increase GSM = Reduce width mechanically
To decrease GSM = increase width
mechanically
 Procedure: 3 samples are cut with GSM cutter, Find their average GSM.
Width test:
 M/C used: Measuring tape
 Performance standard: 150cm +- 2 or as specified by customer.
 Incase of non-conformity: Fifinis
 Procedure: Manual measurement by tape
Tensile Strength:
 M/C used: Alphatens Tensile Tester & Titan universal Strength Tester
72
 Performance standard: According to BTL quality standard & specification.

 Incase of non-conformity: To increase Tensile strength, remercerize &
refinish.
 Procedure: According to customer requirements & or as specified in the
BTL Quality standard specification.
Tear Strength:
 M/C used: Elmendorf Tearing tester.
 Manufacturer: Messmer Instrument Ltd.
 Frequency: Every order (Only for 100% cotton fabric)
 Performance standard: For both warp & weft 7000mN m or 713 gm
minimum or as per the customer’s requirement.
 Incase of non-conformity: To increase Tensile strength, remercerize &
refinish.
 Procedure: According to customer requirements & or as specified in the
BTL Quality standard specification.
Abrasion Resistance:
 M/C used: Nu-Martindale Abrasion & pilling Tester
 Frequency: Whenever required
 Performance standard: Grade-4, Grade-3 (for peach fabric)
 Incase of non-conformity: Resingeing followed by Resin finish.
 Procedure: According to customer’s requirment
Thermal stability (Shrinkage):

73
 M/C used: Contact Heat Test Unit

 Manufacturer: Roaches Engineering Limited
 Frequency: Every blend fabric order
 Performance standard: Warp=1.5% and Weft=1.5%
 Incase of non-conformity: Heat set
 Procedure: BS 1006, ISO 105:P01
Crease Resistence:
 M/C used: Crease recovery tster
 Manufacturer: Shirely, England
 Performance standard: According to buyer’s standard
 Incase of non-conformity: Moist cross, finish/resin finish.
 Procedure: BS EN 22313, AATCC 66, ISO 2313
 Documents/Forms used: Tests results finished fabric
Stretching & Growth Recovery:

 M/C used: Static extension board & Titan universal Strength Tester
 Manufacturer: India & James H. Heal & Company, Halifax, England
 Frequency: For every stretch fabric & after every subsequent processing
stage.
 Performance standard: Stretching = 20%, Growth recovery = 6% & as per
customer’s requirement
 Incase of non-conformity: Consult with the section incharge.
 Procedure: ASTM 123 or as per customer’s specification
 Documents/Forms used: Stretched fabric process record
Smoothness appearance:
 M/C used: Electrolux Wascator & Tumble dryer
 Manufacturer: By wascomst
74
 Frequency: Every wrinkle free order

 Performance standard: As per customer requirement.
 Incase of non-conformity: Moist cross, finish/resin finish
 Procedure: AATCC 124 or as per customer’s specification
 Documents/Forms used: BTL quality standard specification, Quality
standard of other customer’s.
Fastness tests:
Fastness to wash:
 M/C used: Gyrowash
 Performance standard: For color change 4C, for color staining 4S &
according to customer’s requirements.
 Incase of non-conformity: Rewash for reactive dyed fabric, RC for
disperse dyed fabric..
 Procedure: BS 1006 ref:C06 C25, AATCC 61 & according to customer’s
requirements.
 Documents/Forms used:
a. Tests results for 100% cotton finished fabric.
b. Tests results for PC, CVC finished fabric
c. Color fastness assessment
d. BTL Quality standard specification
e. Quality standard of other customers
 Fabric size: 10cm x 4cm
 Temperature: 60oC
 Time: 30 min
 Chemical: Soap or detergent & soda
 Operation procedure:
a. Adjsut the machine to maintain the required temperature & time
as test required.
b. Pre heat the canister & steel ball to set the temp. of the machine.
c. Check the temp, by using thermometer,
d. Pour the container with the detergent,
e. Place the sample with adjacent fabric,
75
f. Clamp on the cover & fasten the canister vertically into the color
of the machine,
g. Start the machine,
h. Stop the machine when the buzzer on after completion of the test,
i. Remove the sample from the can, wash properly & dry it.
Fastness to water:
 M/C used: Perspirometer chemical kit 7 carbolite incubator
 Performance standard: For color change 4C, for color staining 4S &
 Incase of non-conformity: Rewash & refinish with fixing agent
 Procedure: BS 1006 ref:E01 C25, AATCC 107 & according to customer’s
requirements.
 Time: 4 hrs
 Chemical: No chemical used.
Fastness to perspiration:
 M/C used: Perspirator chemical kit & carblite incubator
 Frequency: Whenevr required
 Performance standard:
BTL Standard Color change Color Standard

Acid sweat 4C 3-4S
Alkali sweat 4C 3-4S
76

 Procedure: BS 1006 ref:E04 C25, AATCC 105 & according to customer’s
requirements.
 Time: 4 hrs
 Chemical:
a. Acid: Na Di-hydrogen orthophosphate (NaH2PO4H2O)
b. Alkali: Di-sodium hydrogen orthophosphate 2-Hydrate
(NaH2PO4H2O)
Fastness to light:
 M/C used: Light fastness Tester
 Performance standard: For dark shade 4C, for light & pale shade 3C &
 Incase of non-conformity: Select dyestuffs with better light fastness
property.
 Procedure: BS 1006 B 02
 Temperature: 220-240oC
 Time: 80 to 100 hrs
77
Fastness to Rubbing:
 M/C used: Crock meter
BTL Standard Non peach Peach

Dry rubbin 4s 3S
Wet rubbing 3S 2S

 Procedure: BS 1006 ref: x 12, AATCC 8 & according to customer’s
requirements.
Fastness to Heat:
 M/C used: Contact heat test unit.
 Manufacturer: Roaches Engineering Limited.
 Performance standard: According to buyer’s requirement
 Incase of non-conformity: Select dyestuffs with better light fastness to heat
 Procedure: ISO 105: P01 & BS 1006 : x 11
a. Tests results for finished fabric.

 Time: 15 sec
78
Fastness to actual laundering:

 M/C used: Electrolux Wascator & Tumble Dryer.
 Manufacturer: Wascomat
 Incase of non-conformity: Rewash & select dyestuffs with better light
fastness to heat
 Procedure: AATCC 135, after 3rd wash
a. BTL Quality standard specification
b. Quality standard of other customers
Fastness to Dry Cleaning:

 Manufacturer: James H. Heal & company, Halifax, England
 Incase of non-conformity: For color change 4C, for clor staining 4s.
 Procedure: ISO 105 E02: 1989
Fastness to Clorinated water:

 Manufacturer: James H. Heal & company, Halifax, England
 Incase of non-conformity: For color change 3C
 Procedure: AATCC 162
79

Fastness to water spotting:

 Incase of non-conformity: Consult with section head
 Procedure: AATCC 104:1994
 Documents/Forms used: Test results finished fabric
Washing stability:
 Frequency: Every order & batcher
Fabric Warp Weft

Non-elastane +-3% +-3%
Spandex/elastane 0 – 6% 0 – 6%
 Incase of non-conformity: Refinish & resanforize
c. Quality standard of other customers
d. Shrinkage result register
Fabric pH (Extract method:

 M/C used: Metler Toledo
 Manufacturer: Metler Toledo AG
80

 Incase of non-conformity: Rewash/finish with acid
 Procedure: AATCC 81:1996
 Documents/Forms used: Tests results for finished fabrics of other
customers.
81
6th Chapter
Inspection Section of
82
Grey Fabric Inspection

After manufacturing of grey fabric on loom, it is inspected using an grey fabric
inspection machine. During this inspection, defects such as fibre ball, hole, chapka, warp
miss, miss pick, double pick, reed mark, starting mark, lot mix, slub, yarn contamination
etc. The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of
quality control in the grey or finished state.
Objects and purposes of greay fabric inspection:
1. To check dia
2. To identify the fabric faults
3. To ensure about the fabric quantity
4. To ensure fabric produced is of required quality.
5. To identify the looms producing defects and taking corrective action..
6. To classify the products according to the different quality based on the demands of
the buyer/market or client.
Final Inspection:
 All pieces will be graded on the base of 4 points per 100 linear yards mapping will
be done on each piece to ensure proper grading. Don’t count more than 4 points
per one yard.
83
 All defects must be recorded & marked in final inspection & an accurate account
of points made to ensure proper grading.
 Al fabrics must meet specifications.
 At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will and up total points & decide
whether the piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked, placed in lower
quality, or cut & upgraded for shipment. Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as
first quality.
 Quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels & check
the lower grading.
 Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs & hanging picks are to be
included in the grading of the fabric.
 Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade,
 All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out.
Some Inspection Process:
 4- Point System
 10- Point System
 2.5 Point System.
Inspection of fabric by 4 – Point System:
This system is mostly used in textile factory for grey fabric inspection. In this system, the
quality level of fabric is determined depending on certain amount of Penalty Numbers per
100 yds fabric. It is known as AAMA (American Apparel Manufacturer Association).In
this system, according to fabric defect size and type it is marked as 1, 2, 3, 4
Name of Marking according to defect size

Fault 0 – 3 inch 3 – 6 inch 6 – 9 inch Above 9 inch
Starting mark 1 Point 2 Points 3 Points 4 Points
Miss Pick
Warp Miss
Double Pick
Slub
Yarn
Contamination
Fibre Ball
84
(Gotte)
Chapka
Thick / Thin
Hole
Openings
Lot Mix 4 Points
Yarn Patta
Reed Mark
Point Calculation System:

Total Penalty Points =
Total Points ¿ Roll x 36 x 100 ¿
Fabric Length ∈ yds x Fabric Width∈inches
Acceptable Level for 100 yds of grey fabric:
Acceptable Points Grade

0 – 20 Points A
20 – 28 Points B
Above 28 Points Rejected
Acceptable Level according to fabric type for 100 yds of grey fabric:
Type of Fabric Acceptable Level Acceptency

Cotton Twill / Denim 0 – 28 Points Acceptable
All Synthetic Fabrics 0 – 20 Points Acceptable
85
7th Chapter
Utility Section of
86
Source of utility services:

Here the following utility services are available…..
 Water : Pumps
 Electricity : PDB & Generator
 Steam : Boiler
 Gas : Titas
 Compress air : Compressor
Water:
Water is supplied continuously in different sections by using submersible & centrifugal
pumps.
Centrifugal pump for water supply for dyeing & other section Capacity
20 H.P Pedrollo pump (each pump: 1000 L/min) 4 units 4000 L/min
10 H.P Pedrollo pump (pump flow rate: 600 L/min) 1 unit 600 L/min
20 H.P Pedrollo pump (pump flow rate: 50 L/min) 1 unit 350 L/min
Spare pump motor pedrello 20 H.P P. 1 unit & 5.5 H.P 1 unit 1 L/min
Jhonson pump (30 H.P) 2 unit 110 m3/hr
KSB pump (30 H.P) 1 unit 100 m3/hr
Submersible pump KSB 46 kw 150 m3/hr
Electricity:
Machine Description Origin No. of machine Capacity
Caterpillar gas generator USA 1 1145 KW
Warsila gas generator France 1 952 KW
Prime power generator Spain 1 636 KW
Sub-station, PDB Bangladesh 1 1000 KVA
Prime Power Generator:

 Brand name: Guascor
 Origin: Spain
 Model: FGLD 480
87
 Standby voltage 380V, 795 KvA

 Prime voltage: 636 KW, 128 KvA
 Phase: 03
 Weight: 1845 Kg
Diesel generator:
 Brand name: KOMATSU
 Origine: Singapore
 Model: EGS 630-3
 Serial No: 30112
 Standby voltage: 440 KW, 550 KvA
 Prime voltage: 440 KW, 500 KvA
 Phase: 03
 Frequency: 50 Hz
 Weight: 3800 Kg
Boiler:
Boiler is mainly used to produce & dliver steam to different sections as required. In
Beximco Textiles Ltd. four boilers are used to produce & deliver steam to different
section.
Boiler specifications:
 Brand name: COMBIMAX

 No of machine: 04
 Type: Fire tube
 Capacity: 10 tons/hr
 Working pressure: 18 kg
 Origin: India
 Company: Thermax Ltd
 Standby voltage: 440 KW, 550 KvA
 Max: 200 psi
Gas:
Mainly gas is delivered from Titas. Natural Gas form Titas gas transmission company.
Gas is used as the fuel of boiler, generator & also used for heating dryer, stenter &
88
compactor machine. But it is mainly used for steam production. Generally 36m3 gas is
required to produce 1 ton of steam.
Compressor:
It is mainly used to deliver compressed air to different section as required. In Beximco
Textiles Ltd. 17 compressors are used to produce & deliver compressed air to different
section.
Compressor specification:
 Brand Name: COMBIMAX

 No of machine: 17
 Capacity: 774 L/hr
 Origin: India
 Company: Thermax Ltd.

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1

PABNA TEXTILE ENGINEERING COLLEGE

Beximco Textile Limited

Mr. Aminul Islam, Lecturer, Department of Fabric Engineering, Pabna Textile

Textile education is based on industrial ground. Theoretical background is not

Chapter-5: Quality Control of Beximco Textile Limited 68 - 80

Chapter-6: Inspection Section of Beximco Textile Limited 81 - 84

Chapter-7: Utility Section of Beximco Textile Limited 85 -88

Operational Headquarters Beximco Industrial Park, Sarabo,

Factory Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur

Listing Status Public Listed Company

Number of Denim Looms Installed 56

Commitment of BEXIMCO to the Environment:

 Count: Ranging from 6 – 120

 Ranging from 7 to 120

 Jersey: In 100% Combed Cotton, CVC, CVS/TC, and Lycra mix.

 Chambray: In classic indigo colours ranging from 4oz to 5.5oz/Yd2

Special Yarn Products:

Design Studio – Mission:

Resources Employed to fulfill the mission:

Singeing & Desizing Process

Figure: Singeing & Desizing machine

There are various methods of singeing:

1. Hot plate singeing

Enzymatic steeping / Enzymatic Desizing:

The chemical used in Desizing process:

i. For all cotton color fabric.

 Materails and Chemical Used.

Nature of Fabric Chemicals/Material Used Chemical composition

 Cold Bleach Recipe:

2. Never touch the gas burner.

Machine Set-up for Production:

Flame Intensity (1 – 20) m.bar 8-12 m.bar 7 – 15 m.bar

 Machine Set-up for Lycra Poplin

Machine set-up Actual parameters range Machine set value

 Machine Set-up for All Cotton Color Peach Finish Fabric:

Machine set-up Actual parameters range Machine set value

 Machine Set-up for Yarn Dyed Fabric and PC/CVC Fabric

Machine set-up Actual parameters range Machine set value

 Machine Set-up for PC/CVC Fabric:

Reserve Chemical (1000 – 2000) Litre 1000 Litre

 Machine Set-up for PC/CVC/Yarn Dyed Peach Finish Fabric:

Machine set-up Actual parameters range Machine set value

 Machine Set-up for Bull-Twill Fabric (Heavy Fabric:

Machine set-up Actual parameters range Machine set value

Production Flow chart:

Singeing & Desizing:

Chemical Preparig (pH check)

Optimum Temperature rise up

Padder Pressure Setting

Productioin Fabric Stitching with guiding fabric

Singeing & Desizing Start with proper flame intensity

Type of fabric Machine speed (m/min)

5. Bull-Twill i.e heavy fabric (60 – 70)

Product Quality check:

Q.C Sample Test:

Pic-up Percent Test Spec no. 73-303 (Sec. 2.2)

pH Test Spec no. 73-303 (Sec.2.7)