PCOS311 – T2 Hair Products (1)
found on scalp, legs, arms,
HAIR PRODUCTS
Hair
- Composed primarily of 88% proteins
or Keratin; a hard fibrous protein.
Keratin is composed of polypeptide
chains, which contributes to its
hardness
- It is made up of 20 amino acids, to
which 11 of is endogenous and 9 is
exogenous and must come from diet
o Proteins are sources of amino
acids, and a healthy diet is
necessary for healthy hair
- Hair color results from two types of
hair pigments from melanin; Melanin
is produced inside the hair follicles
and packed into granules found in
fibers
o Eumelanin – dominant
pigment in brown and black
hair
o Pheomelanin – dominant
pigment in red hair
o Blonde hair colors contain
minimal melanin; Albinos lack
the ability to produce melanin
Normal Scalp Hair growth patterns
- Average of scalp hairs is 100,000
- Average growth rate is 0.35mm/day
o Grows faster in summer than
winter
- Average daily loss is 25-100 hairs/day
- Fastest growth of hair is between 15-
30 years old
- Female hair grows faster than males
Types of Hair
- Vellus or Lanugo hair
o Short, fine, downy,
unpigmented hair
o Found in newborns/infants,
and newly grown hairs
- Terminal hair
o Long, thick, pigmented hair
and body
Shapes of Hair
- Shape of hair shaft determines
whether the hair will be straight or
curly
o Thick Round Shaft – straight
hair
o Thin Oval Shaft – wavy hair
o Thick Flat Shaft – curly hair
o Very Thin Shaft – spiral coiled
hair
Hair Anatomy
1. Shaft
- Cuticle
o Outermost layer; single layer
of transparent scale like cells
overlapping like shingles on a
roof
o Primary defense against
damage
- Cortex
o Middle layer; fibrous protein
core formed by elongated
cells containing melanin
pigment
o Accounts for 90% of hair
weight
o Protein structures in the
cortex contributes to hair
elasticity
o Chemical changes occur in the
cortex
- Medulla
o Innermost layer; referred to
as Pith/Core; composed of
round cells
o Very fine and naturally blonde
hair may not have medulla
while thick, coarse hair, as
well as beard hair always has
a medulla
2. Root
- Hair Bulb
 - Erector pili muscles 1. Powder Shampoos
2. Liquid shampoos/Lotion
Hair Life Cycle
3. Gel shampoos/Solid cream
3 Phases 4. Cream shampoos
5. Oil shampoos
- Active-Growth Phase; Anagen 6. Miscellaneous-Anti dandruff.
o 2-5 years before replacement Medicated shampoo
- Transition Phase; Catagen
o Lasts 1 or 2 weeks; hair follicle II. Based on Use
shrinks about 80% 1. Conditioning shampoos
- Resting Phase; Telogen 2. Antidandruff and Therapeutic
o After 5 or 6 weeks – dermal 3. Baby
papilla reconnects to base of 4. Balancing
hair follicle and blood stream 5. Clarifying
o Hair re-enters Anagen and
new hair begins to form Composition of Shampoo

PCOS311 – T2 Hair Products (2) 1. Water

2. Surfactants
Types and Preparation of Hair Care products 3. Foam Boosters
SHAMPOO 4. Stabilizers
5. Clarifying agents
- Etymology from Hindustani champo 6. Antidandruff agents
- Hair care product used to remove oils, 7. Conditioning agents
dirt, skin particles, dandruff, 8. Thickening agents
environmental pollutants, and other 9. Sequestering agents
contaminant particles gradually build
up in hair HAIR TONICS AND CONDITIONERS

Ideal Properties - Term “Hair Tonic” has been used for

hair preparations because it is used in
1. Smooth and Shiny therapeutics
2. Produce foam - Hair tonic is one kind of hair repairing
3. No irritation tonic and re-texturing hair;
4. Remove dirt completely - Two distinct types
5. Impart fragrance o Products dealing with specific
6. Readily removed problems (Greasy hair,
Functions dandruff)
o Products intended to
1. Completely remove dirt improve, restore, and
2. Protect Hair maintain condition of hair
3. Clean hair
4. Soothe scalp skin Medicated Products
5. Nourish hair - Purpose is to cure, reduce, and
6. Treat dandruff, lice, and/or other scalp restrain some abnormality in the scalp
problems function
Classification of Shampoo - In the past; often made of irritant,
keratolytic, and rubefacient
I. Based on Appearance compounds
 - Recent trend is treatment should - Designed to be used similarly to hair
bring about return to normal state oil – prevents tangling of hair and
and promote balance keep it smooth
- Mainly delas with Dandruff; (3) Ordinary Conditioners
Seborrhea; Hair loss - Combines aspect of Pack and Leave in
conditioner
Conditioners
- Applied after shampoo use
- Viscous liquid applied to the hair and - Characterized into 3 types
usually used after washing hair with o Moisturizer
shampoo o Re-constructers
- Design to restore hair to natural state o Detanglers
o Repair damage by providing
Ordinary Hair Conditioner Types
shiny look to hair fibers
- Restores texture and appearance of A. Moisturizers
rough and harsh hair - Organic solvent concentrated with
o Renders hair shiny, easy to humectant; to retain hair moisture
comb, free from dryness - May not contain protein
B. Re-constructers
Purpose of Hair Conditioner
- Contains protein for hydrolyzation
1. Restore moisture; MAIN IMPORTANT - Human hair keratin protein has low
PURPOSE MW
2. Hair should be manageable after wash - Protein penetrates hair shaft and
3. Smoothen hair follicles; VITAL ROLE gives shiny hair
4. Maintain hair pH C. Detanglers
- Acidifiers and have low pH
Functions of Hair Conditioner
- Function is to close hair cuticle; which
1. Non-irritant causes tangles
2. Smoothen and Soften hair - Surfactant and polymers contribute to
3. Texture protection and shield mechanism
4. Protective Sheath
Conditioner Compositions
5. Tighten cuticle scales
6. Provide Bounce 1. Surfactants
2. Partially/Totally hydrolyzed proteins
Types of Conditioners
3. Oily materials
(1) Pack Conditioner 4. Glossers
- Thick and Heavy 5. Humectant
- High content of surfactant; binds hair 6. Thickeners
structure and glue hair surface scales 7. Bodying agent
together – forming thicker hair 8. Perfumes
surface layer
HAIR COLORANTS
- Applied to the hair for longer time
(2) Leave in Conditioners - Coloring hair is one of most important
- Thinner and have different surfactants acts of adornment among those made
- Lighter, less viscous mixture, thinner by men and women
layer on the hair - Reasons for getting hair colored have
been
o Change natural color
 o Color which hair that appears
with age
o Change color of hair
temporarily on particular
occasion
Ideal Characteristics of Hair Colorant
1. Non-injurious to hair shaft, but colors
the hair without impairing natural
texture and gloss
2. Possess no primary irritant action,
free from sensitizing properties
3. Does not produce toxic effect when in
contact with skin
4. Color of dyed hair should be stable to
air, sunlight, friction, and sweat
5. Should not change color nor bleach
out on application of toilet
preparations such as setting lotion,
hair waving preparation, soap, or
shampoo
6. Colorants should be stable over time
in aqueous solutions and formulated
products in form they are sold and
used
7. Should not produce different
coloration on different parts of same
hair
8. Should have affinity for hair keratin
and capacity to penetrate the shaft
Hair Colorants Raw Materials
- Differ from manufacturer to
manufacturer;
- In general, should include:
o Modifiers
o Antioxidants
o Alkali
o Soaps
o Ammonia
o Wetting agents
o Fragrance
- Variety of chemicals used in small
amounts impart special qualities to
hair
- Dye compounds usually amino
compounds
- Other chemicals used act as
modifiers, stabilizing dye pigments or
otherwise act to modify shade
- Modifiers may bring out color tones
like green or purple, which
complement dye pigment like
resorcinol
- Antioxidants protect dye from
oxidizing with air, most commonly
used is sodium sulfite
- Alkali is added to change pH of dye
formula, because dye works best in
highly alkaline composition.
Ammonium hydroxide.
Types of Hair Colorants
Temporary Hair Color
- Available in various product forms:
Rinses, shampoos, gels, sprays, foams
- Used to give brighter, vibrant shades
or colors like orange or red that may
be difficult to achieve with semi- and
permanent hair color
- While it holds lesser market than
semi- and permanent agents, they
have value in that they can be easily
and quickly removed without
bleaching or application of different
coloring product
- Colorants does not penetrate Cortex
or Medulla
o Which is why dye is easily
removed with shampoo
Semi-permanent Hair Color
- Stronger and more permanent
coloration to hair than temporary
- Some colors are removed in 4-8
shampoo washing
- Dyes used are
o Nitrophenylenediamine
o Nitroaminophenols
o Aminoanthraquinones
- Mixture is prepared before preparing
color shades
- Should be studied on white wool or
hair
 - Contains no Ammonia
Permanent Hair Color
- All permanent hair color products and
Phase I: Pre-Clinical Testing
lighteners contain a developer (or
oxidizing agent) and an alkalizing
agent as part of ammonia or ammonia
substitute
- Purpose is to
o Raise cuticle of hair fiber so
tint can penetrate
o Facilitate formation of tints
within hair fiber
o Bring lightening action of
peroxide
o When tint containing
alkalizing ingredient is
combined with developer
(Usually Hydrogen Peroxide),
peroxide becomes alkaline
Phase II: Clinical Study Data Collection and
and diffuses through hair
Evaluation
fiber, entering cortex where
melanin is located
o Lightening occurs when
alkaline peroxide breaks up
melanin and replaces it with
new color
PCOS311 – T2 Hair Products (3)
Safety and Evaluation of Hair Care Products
- Hair care product performance and
safety ultimately determine product
success and longevity
o Best market results – precisely
planned performance and
safety evaluations required
- International regulatory agencies
require demonstration of product
safety
- Manufacturers and Distributors,
responsible for collecting ample info
on product safety and efficacy
- Two Key phases for Comprehensive
Hair Care Product Performance
testing;
o Pre-clinical Testing
o Clinical Study
 Design
 Data Collection
 Evaluation
- Pre-clinical dermal and ocular toxicity
and irritation test is required early in
safety evaluation process
- Dermal Sensitization tests on
reconstructed human epidermis
o Determines skin response
- Ocular Irritation tests on corneal
models
o Evaluates irritancy
- Occurs prior to clinical studies so
safety is assured, IRB review, when
mandated, should also occur after
pre-clinical studies and before clinical
testing begins
- Clinical data collection extends over
months
- Planning and execution should begin
as early as possible to meet desired
market release date
- Hair performance tests includes
(A) Trichological (Hair Count) Analysis
- Determines changes in hair growth
patterns, trained professional uses
dermascope or videoscope to survey
scalp and record changes in hair
growth patterns
(B) Traction Test
- Or Gravimetric “Pull” Analysis;
Sabouraud’s Sign; The Pull-Out Sign
- Measure hair shedding patterns
- Prior to shampooing, 20-60 strands of
hair are grasped at base and tugged
firmly. More than 10% of strands
pulled indicates Active Hair Shedding
(C) Hair Pluck Test
- Evaluates changes in hair growth cycle
and hair breakage over time using hair
shafts plucked from scalp
(D) Regimented Combing Technique
- Assess changes in hair fallout rates
- Panelists use specific combing
techniques to evaluate hair fallout
rates
(E) Tensile Test
- Measures any alterations in hair
strength and resilience
- Measured using Dia-Stron Mini Tensile
Tester (MTT)
- MTT uses 3-point bending and torsion
tests to measure force overtime
required to elongate and break a
strand of hair