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Kit Manual for Pipistrel Sinus and Virus Aircraft
Pipistrel
Sinus & Virus
Kit Build Manual
http://www.pipistrel.si © Pipistrel Release March 2009 © Page 1 of 267

Table of Contents
What do you need?......................................................................................................................................4

Preparing the Fuselage..............................................................................................................................5
Preparing the undercarriage.....................................................................................................................10
Fitting the undercarriage to the aircraft...................................................................................................18
Firewall setup............................................................................................................................................21
Mounting the engine to the firewall..........................................................................................................22
Sound dampening material......................................................................................................................23
Painting the fuselages interior (part 1) ...................................................................................................25
General touch ups and painting the fuselage (part 2)............................................................................27
Lining the fuselage interior with carpet and mounting the fuel taps....................................................29
Fitting the cockpit carpet..........................................................................................................................32
Installation of the heat duct, oil tank bracket and wire bundle fittings.................................................33
Cutting the slots for the fuel gauge.........................................................................................................34
Fitting the throttle assembly and the flap handle...................................................................................34
Fitting the ballistic chute (part 1).............................................................................................................37
Fitting the ballistic chute (part 2).............................................................................................................43
Fitting the lower fuel system....................................................................................................................49
Fitting the Velcro for the seats..................................................................................................................54
Rudder pedal preparation.........................................................................................................................55
Seat belt preparation..................................................................................................................................56
Drilling the rudder cable holes..................................................................................................................58
Running the rudder cable outers..............................................................................................................58
Mounting the pedals.................................................................................................................................61
Fitting the rudder cables..........................................................................................................................69
Mounting the upper flaperon pushrod bracket.......................................................................................70
Mounting the electrical panel...................................................................................................................71
Fitting the rudder assembly.....................................................................................................................72
Horizontal stabilizer preparation..............................................................................................................81
Preparing the elevator / rudder................................................................................................................83
Fitting the horizontal stabilizer................................................................................................................88
Installation of the sliding elevator trim knob..........................................................................................93
Fitting the trim system..............................................................................................................................95
The Control System..................................................................................................................................98
Mounting the control system..................................................................................................................102
Nose wheel cable preparation................................................................................................................107
Finishing the rudder cables...................................................................................................................109
Fitting the rudder....................................................................................................................................110
Fitting the brake lines.............................................................................................................................111
Mounting the fuel lines in the cabin......................................................................................................117
Fitting the windscreen............................................................................................................................118
Installation of the strobes.......................................................................................................................123
Fitting the engine (part 1).......................................................................................................................126
Fitting the engine (part 2).......................................................................................................................167
Fitting the dashboard.............................................................................................................................175
Fitting the front cowls.............................................................................................................................178
Fitting the cowling around the exhaust and final cowl touch ups......................................................187
Propeller setup........................................................................................................................................191
Fitting the nose wheel............................................................................................................................196
Wing preparation.....................................................................................................................................197
Assembling the airbrakes........................................................................................................................215
Mounting the wings................................................................................................................................223
Fitting the Wheel Spats...........................................................................................................................229
Fitting the nose wheel spat....................................................................................................................233
Fitting the luggage rack and headsets...................................................................................................234
Mounting the Autopilot System..............................................................................................................237
Automatic nose wheel and rudder centering systems........................................................................245

Congratulations on your purchase or evaluation of the Pipistrel Sinus or Virus aircraft kit.
The Sinus and Virus are unique aircraft, providing exceptional performance, unparalleled
flying qualities and astonishing economy.
The building procedures explained in this manual are aimed towards the abilities of an average
person with basic tools. Most of the precision manufacture has been performed at the factory
under controlled conditions, and this will provide the homebuilder with an aircraft which should
be every bit as good as a factory manufactured plane.
Most of the construction can be performed by the builder alone, but you will require additional
assistance for some tasks. Possibly a friend or partner could assist you with some of the
construction. In situations, where you need to rotate the fuselage or fit the wings, you may
need three people.
By following these simple instructions and the accompanying photographs, we expect that you
will need around 250 to 400 hours of enjoyable construction to finish the aircraft. Should you
have any questions with this manual or the construction techniques please contact Pipistrel USA
for clarification. If you aren't used to the metric system, be sure to check Appendix 1 where we
have added a conversion table to help you with certain measurements.
As this is a new version of the kit manual for Pipistrel's Sinus and Virus rcraft, we would like your
feedback and suggestions on the different tasks, so we may improve the manual for future
customers. Please email info@pipistrel-usa.com with any of your questions
They say a picture is worth 1000 words... so we have tried to incorporate this in our manual and
let the pictures do the talking. With over 1000 deruddered images to select from and print out
you will probably find many answers to your questions in the photos and accompanying text.
Time to build..... Lets start !!

What do you need?
Space
Pipistrel Sinus aircraft have a wingspan of just under 15 meters, while Virus aircraft have
approximately 12.5. In order to work the wings comfortably, you're going to need a work space
that is at least 9 meters long, because Sinus wings measure approximately 8 meters long. This
would give you a little space at each end to move around a little more if you're making a Virus.
Work Conditions
Working with epoxy requires, that the components epoxy and work space need to be around 21
degrees Celsius until the epoxy completely cures. For all other steps and procedures you aren't
required to heat your workspace.
Work Conditions
Here is a list of tools that will definitely come in handy when making your Pipistrel aircraft:
Vapor mask Tape measure

Variable speed drill Swaging tool
Set of metric drill bits (longer ones if possible) Work lamp (one that you can hang in the aircraft if
need be)
Metric thread taps Scissors or clippers
Metric step drill Paint brushes
Standard metric open-end wrenches Dremel hand drill
Standard metric ratchet sockets Dremel sanding drill bits
Standard metric Allen wrenches Heat gun
Special NutSert installation tool Various files for sanding, grinding and polishing
Right angle hand drill (or drill angle attachment) Felt-tip marker (erasable)
Jigsaw Drill bits for countersinking
De-burring tool Vernier caliper set

Materials
Here is a list of materials that you will definitely need when making your Pipistrel aircraft:
Loctite 243
Loctite 262
Sheets of plastic for masking while painting (3M
Painter's Masking Tape Pre-Taped Drop Cloth is highly
recommended)
Grease (SKF bearing grease or Xintex)
Silicon (black if possible)
WD-40
Sandpaper (80 and 100 granulation)
Electrical tape
Two-sided tape
Rubber gloves
Preparing the Fuselage
 Support the fuselage on a suitable stand and support the rudder on a piece of foam to
protect it from damage.

 Mask the elevator pushrod with masking tape to keep out dust and debris from the
pushrod bearings during the early fuselage preparation phases.
 Sand the cockpit openings smooth to remove the sharp edges from manufacture
 Sand the windscreen edge to ensure a good fit of the Lexan windscreen, paying particular
attention to the section marked with ovals in the photos below. The key is to make sure
the edges around the windscreen are smooth and not sharp.

 The sections highlighted below need a little extra material taken off the inside edge to
make sure the windscreen seats perfectly. Be sure to do both sides.
 With a marker pen, mark the center of the fuselage halves above the firewall section.
Look for the strip of raised plastic on the fuselages surface, which is a result of the
fuselages manufacturing process. This will assist you in finding the center position, which
in turn will be used to locate the windscreen brace.

 Clean the windscreen mounting areas with thinners or alcohol removers to ensure they
are clean and will bond properly. Blow them with compressed air and a vacuum to
ensure they are totally clean.
 Drill holes in the floor for the cables, flaps and the trim slot. Use the Dremel tool to cut
the holes and then sand smooth with a file and sandpaper. The same goes for the flap
handle area and also the throttle nutserts. The factory will already have these positions
marked for you in marker pen. Look at Appendix 2, 3 and 4 for hole diagrams with exact
dimensions.

 Dremel the holes and slots, use a vacuum cleaner to keep the dust under control when
cutting.

Preparing the undercarriage
Drilling the main axle hole:
NOTE: The main axle hole most likely has already been drilled for you.
• The main axle hole is drilled half way in from both sides to avoid drifting
• The use of a reamer drill is recommended
• The tighter the fit the better, therefore drill cautiously. The last thing you want to do is
drill a hole that is too big.
Placement of the main axle and endplates:
• Place the endplates - be sure to align the plates correctly, as shown in the pictures below.
If aligned the wrong way, drilling the holes could cause perforation of the undercarriage's
upper edge. When the plates are aligned correctly, the holes are drilled further away
from the edge and will not cause perforation of the undercarriage.
• Slide the axle through and fix the assembly with the washer and the non-machined nyloc
nut - apply Loctite 243 to the axle's threads before assembling the washer and nyloc nut

Now we have to to drill the holes for the brake pins.
 The goal is to drill a hole that is just deep enough, so that the pin, once placed, sticks out
exactly 1 cm from the brake assembly resting plate. This can be done by marking the
drill.
 Insert the pins and tap them in with a hammer


Placement of the brake assembly:
 First check to see that the brake pad fits nicely into the brake assembly housing. It
should slide in and out of the housing smoothly, without being hindered or getting stuck.
If needed, lightly grind the brake pad's two alignment pegs with a file until the pad slides
in and out of the housing nicely. This is very important in order for the brakes to function
properly.
 Slide the brake assembly on and ensure that it is properly seated on the resting plate. If
necessary, use a piece of pipe to tap it flush on the resting plate.
 Note that there is a left and a right brake; they must be fitted so the hydraulic nipple is
pointing to the front of the aircraft on both sides of the plane.
 Fit washer and clean brake – NOTE: FOR ALL VIRUS AND SIRUS MODELS WITH SERIES
NUMBER 277 AND GREATER, IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO PLACE A WASHER BETWEEN THE
BRAKE ASSEMBLY AND THE WHEEL. THESE MODELS HAVE AN ALTERED BRAKE
ASSEMBLY WITH A BIGGER FLANGE AND THUS DO NOT REQUIRE THE WASHER.
Brake assembly WITH washer

Wheel placement:
 Place wheel on the axle

 Thoroughly grease the bearing and the wheel hub
 Place the bearing and apply even more grease around the bearing afterwards

 Fit the dust cover on the axle after thoroughly greasing it.
 Fit the nyloc nut - note there is no washer as the nut is especially machined to fit
 Tighten the nut up so that the wheel still turns freely - do not over tighten the nut or the
wheel may bind
 Wipe off excess grease
 Fit the wheel spat spacer, but first apply Loctite 243 to the axle's threads
 When tightening the spacer, be sure not to also tighten the locknut. Brace the locknut
while tightening the spacer as shown below.
 Check one last time to ensure that the wheel turns freely and quietly.
 Also grab the wheel with two hands and check to see that there is no free movement of
the wheel along the axis.

 Go to other side of axle and tighten the other locknut, torque setting 6 Newton meters.
 Mark all nuts with red paint. Repeat for other side.
 Check tire pressures at 32 psi or 2.2 atmospheres
Modification of the landing gear for the aircraft with a nose wheel:
Aircraft with a nose wheel have a different way to run the brake lines and it is necessary to
make modification to the tops of the landing gear legs. Normally the brake lines come from the
brakes and travel up the inside of the legs and enter into the cabin. If the aircraft has a nose
wheel, it is necessary to modify the exit hole so the line actually travels the normal route, goes
back into the landing gear leg and exits on the bottom where it then enters the cabin on the
front side of the leg.
 Drill a hole at a 45 degree angle directly beside pre-drilled hole located on top of the
undercarriage's legs. Do the same for the other side. Check to make sure no sharp
edges remain.


Fitting the undercarriage to the aircraft

For aircraft equipped with a nose wheel, the undercarriage is attached to the fuselage with bolts
and special washers.
 These washers require a recessed hole to be drilled in the cockpit floor. Use an
appropriate drill bit.
 It is important that the washer is seated properly; if you make the hole too big, it will
allow the undercarriage to move around excessively and if you make the recess too small,
the bolt and washer wont be seated properly. If by chance the holes are drilled too big,
be sure to fill them in with epoxy.
 Note: for aircraft without a nose wheel there is no recess. There are just normal bolts
mounted with locknuts and a plate to hold the undercarriage in place.
Setup for aircraft without a nose wheel

 Put a fair amount of epoxy around the top of the holes in the cockpit. This makes the
large locating washers sit perfectly in the holes.
 Then put a light smear of grease around the bottom of the washer and around the bolt
shaft to stop the epoxy from sticking to the metal parts. It is important to have the
washers seated properly to avoid future damage to the structure
 Cover the tops of the landing gear leg with silicone before mounting as shown below
 Place undercarriage bolts into floor of fuselage and fit undercarriage leg. You'll need
someone to lift the front of the plane to do this, as its not so light.
 Tighten the nylocs on the undercarriage to 5.5 Newton meters. Apply Loctite 243.
 Wipe up any excess epoxy and grease. After 24 hours it is necessary to retighten the
bolts again to 5.5 Newton meters to allow for the epoxy to come out while it is curing.

 The last step is to prepare the fuselage for the brake lines. Position yourself under the
fuselage so that you're looking directly at the undercarriage and your legs are pointing
towards the engine.
 Locate the center mark of the undercarriage's groove and drill two holes. Each hole
should be approximately 3 cm from the center mark.
 Dremel the opening in the side of the aircraft for the brake lines to run from the pedals to
the wheels. The position is already marked in marker pen by the factory.
 Be careful not to go to deep or you can go through the outer shell of the aircraft, then
clean up with a drill and sandpaper

Firewall setup
The fuselage comes already marked with hole locations and diameters. It is recommended, that
you drill the holes on an as-per basis, and not all at once. Futhermore, check the cabin heating
valve position to ensure that it doesn't interfere with the electrical panel, that mounts on the aft
side of the firewall. Lastly, be sure to mount encapsulated nutserts into the firewall to hold items
like the electrical assembly in place. NOTE: Additional diagrams with all necessary hole
dimensions can be found in Appendix 8, 9 and 10.
 The oil tank bracket is rotated clockwise, as viewed from the cockpit, a few degrees. It's
to be mounted with four M5x16 hex bolts
 The lower left electrical panel mounting cap screw is intended to protrude through the
firewall and to be used as a hose clamp mount for the fuel return line. Therefore, the cap
screw for that location is longer (M5 x 24) than the other three mounting screws (M5 x
16).
 The bottom hole for the engine mount should be approximately 42mm from the bottom
surface of the fuselage. You can use this hole as a reference and then use the mount to
find the other hole locations.

Mounting the engine to the firewall
 First cut away the firewall material where the engine mount goes. These are hardened
points in the firewall. Carefully cut with a sharp knife and peel the fireproof material
away. You need to do this to mount the engine against a hard surface. If you go over
the top of the fireproof material it will compress over time and allow the engines to shift
and move.
 Then put the mount up against the firewall and align the mounting points with the
hardened points in the firewall. The bottom engine bolt should lie approximately 32mm
above the fuselage's inner rim. The other two mounting points need to be aligned, so
that the engine mount is in the middle of the firewall and level. Once you find the
appropriate position for the engine mount, mark the hole locations.
 Drill three Ø8mm holes (upper right, upper left and bottom center) and two Ø6mm holes
(lower left, lower right)
 Insert the bottom engine bolt through the small hole in the cabin floor. It will need to be
secured from behind and pushed forward using a socket and extender, so that you'll be
able to the tighten the nut in the front.
 Mount the final bolts to hold the engine mount to the airframe.

Sound dampening material
 Mount the noise deadening carpet to the inside of the firewall using spray glue on both
surfaces. Be sure to mask the cockpit with tape and plastic to protect it from getting
sprayed.
 Also cover the steering yoke on the nose wheel with tape to protect it from getting
sprayed.
 Now spray the carpet with spray glue and allow it to dry.
 With a helper, carefully position the carpet against the front wall, starting at the bottom and
working to the top, pushing and making sure there is good contact.


 Now just heat a soldering iron tip to cherry red and burn holes through the carpet to
correspond to the openings in the firewall.
Painting the fuselage interior (part 1)
This step involves painting all parts of the interior that ARE NOT made of grey shiny Kevlar. It
does NOT include, however, the roof. The cockpits roof will be painted at later stage when the
cockpit is actually flipped upside down.
 First cover the front of the cockpit with plastic sheets. Spray the back of windscreen with
special bumper bar black paint from a distance of around 500mm to get the best
coverage and a slightly rough finish that doesn’t reflect. Use 2 coats, allowing a few
minutes to dry between each. It’s best to use two normal layers of paint rather than one
thick layer which can run
 Now mask the inside of the fuselage for painting. Paint with a brush using nitro black
paint. Pay special attention to the door lip and clean up with thinners if you have any
spillage.


 When the paint dries, remove the masking tape. Paint the dash area and the main
vertical support tubes which run down the sides of the windscreen
General touch ups and painting the fuselage interior (Part 2)
 Rotate the fuselage upside down and support the rudder on foam padding. Set the wing
roots on a frame or saw horses with sponge foam to prevent damage

 Use two part epoxy body filler and go around the openings of the windscreen and the
skylight in the roof, filling in the small defects from manufacture. When the filler has
hardened overnight it can be sanded and finished.
 Note this is only for cosmetics and provides no other use. Be careful as the fiberglass is
very thin on the canopy lip - do not sand too hard and don’t use mechanical sanders.

 Clean the sanded area down with thinners and clean it with compressed air. Paint the rest
of the fuselage with nitro paint to finish off the painting. Using a brush is recommended.
 Once you have masked around the canopy and skylight lip, paint the sanded and filled
area with bumper paint. Use bumper paint as it has a good sheenless colour and the
finish fills in small imperfections in the body filler.

Lining the fuselage interior with carpet and mounting the fuel taps
 Fit carpet to the roof and sides of the cabin using contact adhesive, which is applied to
both the fuselage sides and the carpet. Use the “paint on” type of contact adhesive for
the fuselage and “spray” type of contact adhesive on the carpet. If this is not done, the
carpet soaks up a lot of weight with excess glue. Allow both to dry until they are not
sticky and then mount the carpet
 Fit the carpet on the roof first, starting at the rear and working forwards. Make sure the
carpet is centered and does not run up the sides of the fuselage otherwise it will interfere
with the carpet on the sides of the wing root and also interfere when fitting the wings to
the aircraft.

 Glue the carpet to the sides of the fuselage on the wing roots. Place the carpet
temporarily in the right location and trace it before gluing to know where to apply
adhesive. When marked, apply glue to both the carpet and the fuselage, allow to dry and
position in place. This time start at the front and work to the rear. Push down firmly for
the best bond.
 Use the metal roof supports as a guide and stretch the carpet back as you go. Make sure
not to cover the rear hole where the ailerons poke through.
 Finally, make a small cut for the brackets which hold the fuel lines in place and push
down firmly to complete the process
 Cut the holes for the wing spars, the fuel sight gauges and the other connectors using a
gas operated soldering iron with a sharpened point. You must use a soldering iron to both
cut and seal the carpet in one go. If the carpet is not sealed it will start to fray after its
first flight.
 Fit the fuel taps using Loctite number 243 which is made for fuel and pressure fittings.
Use a washer and position in the bracket as shown in the photograph.

 If you notice that the fuselage fiberglass is built up a little too thick in the area where you
are mounting the fuel tap, be sure to grind down the fiberglass a little and/or enlarge the
hole.
Fitting the cockpit carpet
Four pieces of carpet are to placed on the cockpit's front wall (behind the motor).
 The two identical side pieces should be placed first, then the thin upper piece and then
the main piece.
 Before placing the thin upper piece, cut a small triangle out of the upper edge to make
room for the windscreen's placement clip.
 Using the adhesive spray, coat the insulation material and spray the carpet which goes on
the inside of the firewall, allow to dry then position and mount the carpet.
 When dry using the soldering iron with a knife blade cut the openings in the carpet for the
additional holes.

Installation of the heat duct, oil tank bracket and wire bundle fittings
 Push the carbon heat duct in place with the flange on top of the carpet.
 If need be, open the holes in the insulation blanket and carpet at the remaining holes to
allow for the bolts fit through the firewall
 Use blue Loctite 243 on the bolts.
 Now mount the oil tank bracket using blue Loctite 243 on the bolt threads.
 Next install the through-firewall plastic threaded wire bundle fittings. If you find that
they are not long enough to extend beyond the carpet remove enough carpet material
around the hole to permit installation of the nut on the end of the fitting on the back side
of the firewall.

Cutting the slots for the fuel gauge

 Drill holes for fuel sight gauge in the fuselage wing root. Start with a smaller hole and
open up with the step drill - holes are 12mm diameter. Join the holes using a Dremel and
then file, sandpaper them clean
Step Drill – A useful purchase from most good electrical or larger hardware stores
Fitting the throttle assembly and the flap handle
 Position the throttle-choke assembly and mark holes needed for the throttle and choke
cables. See Appendix 4 for a diagram of the hole locations.
 Cut the holes with the Dremel tool and make the hole where the cable runs through about
1mm bigger than marked so you don’t see the hole when the assembly is finally in place.
 Mount the throttle assembly using the 4 screws provided and secure with red Loctite 262.
 Mount the flap handle and check that it is aligned properly. This can be done by stepping
in front of the aircraft and lining it up with the windscreens support bar. First push the
assembly down and then backwards. The cutout in the cockpit support beam can be
grinded a little bigger in order to make the flap handle assembly fit nicely. See Appendix
2 for a diagram of the cabin floor cutout
 Be sure to mount the flap handle so that the angle brackets point towards the engine and
not towards the rudder, as shown in the diagram and pictures below.
 Drill the 4 holes in the base and then drill and bolt the 4 holes on the seat back using red
Loctite 262. Note that on some aircraft, especially virus, you will have to grind some
material from the middle floor tunnel, or from the middle support beam to get it all to fit,
as it sometimes get made too thick. Remember to drill carefully, so that you don't hit the
elevator pushrods.

Fitting the ballistic chute (part 1)
If you have ordered a chute with your kit, the factory will have marked the position and shape of
the hole with marker pen on the top of your aircraft.
 Mask over the area with packaging tape to stop the surface getting damaged when you
cut the chute opening with a jig saw.
 Drill 4 small holes and a slot to start the cut with a jigsaw. Be sure to measure the
jigsaw blade width first and use a drill with the same drill piece thickness as the jigsaw

blade to start the cut. Make sure the jigsaw has the finest blade teeth you can get and
use blades made for cutting metals.
 Make sure to use lots of masking tape for padding on the bottom of the jigsaw and hold it
securely with downwards pressure, so you don’t get lots of marks on the aircraft.
 Be sure to cut on the outside of the marked line. When using the jigsaw use safety
glasses and hearing protection
 When cutting with the jigsaw, support the chute opening, especially when the cut is
almost completed, so it won't flop around and get damaged
 Sand the chute opening and the piece you have cut out to ensure good adhesion to the
silicone when you mount the chute into the aircraft and close up the opening.
Now that you have prepared the parachute hole in the fuselage, you can begin installing the
parachute container.
 First you need to protect the surface of the fuselage around the parachute hole. Using
black electrical tape, create a nice clean rim around the hole. Then place a large sheet of
plastic around the hole and tape it down using masking tape.
 Sand and clean the upper surface of the container where it will be fixed to the fuselage.
Do the same for the surface around the hole on the inside of the fuselage.
 Place three strips of duct tape around the rim of both the container and the hole. Try to
align them nicely.

 Now prepare both both the upper surface of the container and the inner surface of the
fuselage around the hole for mounting. Mix up a small volume of epoxy resin (without
cotton flock) and nicely cover both surfaces with it.
 Mix up to batches of epoxy resin; one normal mix with cotton flock and one rapid-dry
polyester mix. Make sure that they're fairly thick mixes. Remove the strips of tape you
placed on the containers rim earlier and apply the epoxy resin as shown in the photos
below. The rapid-dry epoxy resin is to be applied to those areas where the duct tape was
before.
 Also place a “handful” of rapid-dry epoxy resin to the bottom of the container. This will
serve as the second fixation point between the container and the fuselage.

 The container is now prepared to be installed. Place the container into the fuselage and
and align its upper surface with the the hole in the fuselage. Be sure to do this quick after
pasting the epoxy resin on the parts because the rapid-dry will harden within 5 minutes.

 Now begin removing the extra epoxy resin that has been squeezed out from between the
container and fuselage (on both sides!). Once it has all been removed, use it again to
touch up the fixation room between the fuselage and container. This will make the
fixation a little stronger and prevent any cracks or airbubbles from building up.
 Stuff a little of the leftover normal epoxy resin around the containers base for extra
holding strength.

 Spread a little epoxy resin (without cotton flock) around both fixation point rims to close
all pores and make it look nice. Leave the container for 24 hours and let the epoxy resin
cure.

 Using a Dremel, grind the holes in the roof which will be used to fit the rescue parachute
slings. The outlines are already marked on the roof by the factory.
 Carefully cut off excess epoxy around opening of the chute container top cap with a very
sharp knife. Use cutting polish to take off any remaining epoxy and then clean the surface
with cleaning alcholol.
Fitting the ballistic chute (part 2)
Mounting the rocket assembly:
 Locate the 4 holes already drilled between the main parachute holder and the rocket
assembly blast tube.
 Apply Loctite 243 to the treads of the rocket assembly's mounting plate.
 Mount the rocket assembly; the launching handle must be run downwards through the
bottom of the rocket assembly blast tube, while the connecting strap should be pulled
through the top of the rocket assembly blast tube.
 Cover screws and holes with electrical tape.

 Run the launching handle around the back of the rocket assembly blast tube to the metal
roofing brace above the passenger seat
 Fix the handle to the roofing brace as shown in the pictures below.
Mounting the parachute support straps to the fuselage:
 Wrap the support straps around the metal roof braces

 The support strap has a loop at each end. Pass one loop through the other and then feed
it through the roof of the cockpit
 Be sure the seam on the bridles is down, this is important to keep the water out of the
bridles.

Parachute placement:
 Place the parachute in the parachute holder as shown in the picture below. The
parachute's release straps (brown with plastic sheaths) should also be aligned
appropriately (as shown)
 Use a carabiner to connect both of the parachute's release straps with the rocket
assembly's connecting strap. Apply Loctite 243 before closing the carabiner.
 Slide the thin rubber sleeve over the carabiner and temp it with a heat iron so that it fixes
itself to the carabiner/strap junction.

Connecting parachute support straps to parachute:
 First connect the support straps to the parachute's black nylon loop using a carabiner.
Apply Loctite 243 to the carabiner's
 Tug on the support straps and lay them out as shown in the picture below.
 Drill 3 pairs of holes beside the support straps and fix them to the fuselage's roof using
plastic ties.
Preparing the parachute system's cover straps:
 Coil the rocket assembly's connecting strap into the parachute's main holder, above the
actual parachute.
 Using a reamer drill (4mm), make two 30 mm-long slots in the parachute's main holder,
just above the coiled connecting strap, on on each side of the holder.

 Place both cover straps through the holes in the parachute's main holder and determine
how long each strap needs to be, so that the loop and hole meet in the middle
 Mark the cover straps with white pen at the point where the meet the parachute's main
holder.
 Then take the straps out, roll the end up to the white line, place it in a vice and apply
Loctite 406, so that the roll holds.
 Using a hot pin, singe both sides of the roll, puncture two holes into the roll and then add
two plastic ties.
Closing the parachute system:
 Lay out the parachute's support straps so that they cross just inside the parachute's main
holder. Apply strong adhesive tape, so that they are held down well.
 Coil the support straps into the main holder, install the covers traps and slide the rocket
assembly's pin through the loop.

 When finished refit the lid we cut out earlier and fill the gaps around the lid and the chute
entry points with black silicone. Clean up and polish the surfaces.
Making the exhaust hole and concluding touch-ups:
 Make a hole in the fuselage directly below the rocket assmbly blast tube. The hole's
diameter should be equal to that of the blast tube.
 When drilling use a vacuum cleaner to catch debris.
 Cover with the special vinyl sticker and mark with the warning sticker ‘rocket exhaust’.
 Finally, apply silicone under the parachute's support straps to ensure that they are fixed
to the fuselage's roof.

ds
Fitting the lower fuel system

Preparing the firewall:
 Cut 2 holes, 22 mm in diameter, side by side into the firewall as shown in the photo
below. Use a Dremel to grind the center section so you end up with a slot.
 There are three components that you need to complete this step. The first part has a T
piece with 2 silicone tubes and a rubber hose. The second piece is rubber and silicone
tube, which is used for the fuel return line. The third is a smaller junction, which connects
the gasculator and fuel filler/drain.

 Slide the component with the T piece from the rear of the cabin forwards. The end of this
component will be pulled through the left hole in the firewall (when looking at the motor
from the rudder) and connected to the smaller T junction in the engine bay. Examine the
component and quickly determine which of the two silicon tubes is longer. Place the
component so that the longer piece is on the right side of the cabin and the shorter piece
is on the left (when looking at the motor from the rudder).
 The fuel return line can then be pulled under the cabin floor and through the right hand
hole in the firewall. It then follows the already-placed fuel line towards the left wing. Be
sure to cover the ends of all fuel hoses with masking tape to protect them from dust
when going through the fuselage. Furthermore make sure they are clear of all controls
and the trimmer cables. Feed them towards the left side of the aircraft, in the back the
blue hose goes beneath all the other cables and control lines.
T piece and fuel return line, behind

the cabin
 Check to make sure that there is no excessive freeplay in the lines and they do not cross
any control cables where they may get worn.
Preparing the engine bay:
 Grind the surface of the fuselage lip a little to ensure it is flat and then drill a hole in the
fuselage lip as shown in the photo below. Fix the fuel filler/drain valve to the lip and be
sure to apply Loctite 577 to both sets of threads on either end of the fuel filler/drain
valve. The valve should open and close to the left and, if need be, slightly grind the
fuselage lip to ensure that the handle moves freely. The tubes should be firmly tightened
as well with two cable ties at each junction. The tube ends should also be heated a little
before being connected to a junction to provide for a tighter fit.
 Prepare the protective fire sleeves and ensure that they are the correct length. The
protective fire sleeve for the fuel return line should be long enough to reach the top of the
firewall. Slide them over their respective fuel lines and feed them through the slot in the
firewall as shown in the photo below. The fire sleeves should be pulled forward a good 2
cm from the firewall under the cabin floor. Close the slot up around the fire sleeves using
black silicone.

 Put a couple of cable ties around the fuel hose under the floor to keep them together
 Stick some placement pegs on the floor of the cabin and fix the fuel lines to them using
cable ties.
Preparing the fuel lines to be connected to the fuel tanks in the wing:
 The fuel lines going to the wings are secured with plastic straps, a washer and a rivet.
The first rivet is placed 200 mm from the cabin's ceiling, followed by another 200 mm
down, then another 200 mm down and the last one 170 mm down, as shown in the
picture below. They are all spaced about 30 mm from the edge of the cockpit and mount
into the bulkhead straight the pilot's shoulders.
 Use a 4mm rivet size and drill a 4.2 mm drill. The structure has a Kevlar base and if you
drill say a 4mm hole it closes slightly after you remove the drill. This makes it harder to
get the rivet in, so that’s why we drill 4.2mm.
 Lastly, fix a fuel valve to the installed bracket just as done before. The valve handle
should open downwards. Use Loctite 577, heat the tube ends and tighten with cable ties.


Preparing the pitot and static tubes:
 The two clear tubes run from under the cabin floor to the right wing are used by the pitot
tube. They should be secured along side the fuel lines on the right hand side of the
aircraft behind the cabin. Then feed them under the pilot's seat on the right hand side of
the aircraft (when looking at the motor from the rudder) and through the right hand hole
under the instrument panel as shown in the picture below.
 Leave the tube ends for the time being. They will be appropriately connected later on
when the wings and instrument panel are installed.
Fitting the Velcro for the seats
This step involves mounting the Velcro onto the seat bases where they are to hold the pre-made
seats.
 First clean the area with spirits and let it dry.

 Then mark where Velcro is to be mounted and use 3M scotch mount adhesive primer on
the surface to ensure good adhesion. Allow to dry for about 5 minutes and apply Velcro.
 There are 4 pieces under the seat base, one for the carpet near the pedals and three
pieces hold on the headrests. Finally cover the Velcro with tape to keep it clean for the
rest of the construction

Rudder pedal preparation
 The holes for the pedals and rudder cables should be already marked on your fuselage.
When drilling the cables for the rudder it is necessary to have the drill laying on the floor
of the cockpit to ensure the holes are drilled in the right direction. If they are on an
angle it will cause unnecessary friction to the rudder cables. If the holes are the right
direction there will be no binding in the cables. All the holes have a diameter of 6mm.

 Drill the holes in the firewall for the rudder pedals. These must also go through on the
same angle as the cockpit floor. Note that these holes must go through two layers of
fiberglass thus, if they are done at the wrong angle they will come out the floor of the
fuselage and not in the correct position
Seat belt preparation
 The seat belts have outer anchoring positions which have metal inserts embedded in the
fiberglass. Prepare them by tapping metric 8mm. Be sure not to tap he holes too deep
or you will go through the outer layer of the plane and cause major damage. The factory
uses an electric drill for the tapping, but they recommend that the kit builder should do
this procedure by hand.

 Drill the center seat belt mounts in the center of the aircraft and position them centrally
in the prepared pad. Drill 8mm on both sides. Be aware, however, that if you drill too far
you will damage the elevator pushrod so don’t push too hard.
 Now drill the rear seat belt mounts just below the rivet installed by the manufacturer,
hole size 8mm
Leave the fitting of the seat belts to much later in the process – its one of the last jobs and they
will be protected from damage while fitting other items.

Drilling the rudder cable holes
 Drill the holes for the rudder cables in the rear bulkhead. Each hole has a diameter of
6mm hole. Also drill the bulkhead underneath the seats in the marked locations.
Running the rudder cable outers
The rudder cable outers run from the cockpit (just in front of the pedal adjustment knob) to just
beyond the first rear bulkhead.
 Mount the rudder cable outers using the supplied pressure hose
 Feed them under the seats towards the rear bulkhead as shown below

 Next drill two holes into the pushrod base area as shown in the picture below. One hole
should be just below the pushrod on the left hand side and the other just below the first
one, but on the right hand side. Your fuselage should already be marked with the proper
locations.
 The driver's left pedal rudder outer and the passenger's right pedal rudder outer should
cross here.
 The material is soft foam, so be careful when drilling. Use a vacuum to keep debris out of
the bearings.

 Put cable ties over the rudder cables where they come out of the floor and apply Loctite
406 or superglue to keep them firmly in place and stop the cable ties from coming off.
 When the glue has dried, pull the rudder cable outers firmly from the rear to remove any
slack, trim off the excess cable outer in the cockpit leaving about 1 cm exposed and in
the rear cut off the tubes to about 75mm long behind the first bulkhead.

Mounting the adjustable pedals
The pedals come assembled with the brake pump and you can mount them following two steps:
mounting the pedal assembly and mounting the pedal adjustment knob.
Mounting the pedal assembly:
• First you need to drill the middle lower hole for the pedal's front mounting plate. Hole
positions come already marked on the cabin floor. Drill a hole 8mm diameter hole and fit
it with a nutsert. Place the pedals and bolt them in with the one lower middle screw in
the front mounting plate. Use a spirit level to make sure the pedals are level.

Make sure pedals remain level when drilling
• Now mark the other two holes in the front mounting plate and drill through the inner
layer. Do not drill into the firewall. Use a 6mm drill piece first and make sure the pedals
remain level.
• After the 6mm hole is drilled, open it up to 8mm and insert a nutsert in each hole. Before
tightening all the way, check that the pedals have remained level
• Tighten up all three bolts.
 Now you must center the pedals, push down on the assembly so that the rear mounting
plate sits flush on the cabin floor. Drill one 6mm hole and insert a bolt.
 Check the alignment of everything and, when satisfied, drill the remaining 3 holes and
insert the washers, nyloc nuts from behind.

 Fit the co-pilots pedals using the same methods.
Mounting the pedal adjustment knob:
For this step, the goal is to run a cable from the black adjustment knob, which
sits just behind the pedals, to the adjustment pin in the pedal assembly. A
spring is to be attached to the part of the cable, which runs under the cabin
floor.
 Remove the pedal assemblies and drill two 6mm holes in the cabin's floor
in the spots indicated in the photo below. The lower hole should be drilled
parallel to the cabin floor, while the upper hole should be drilled normal (at
a 90o) to the surface.
 Let's focus on the upper hole, where the knob will eventually be located.
Fix it with an insert and feed a short length of cabel outer through it.
 Fix the cable outer to the insert using a little Loctite 406. Trim the cable
outer, so that approx. 30 mm of outer remains under the cabin floor and
none remains in the cabin. See picture below.

 Now lets prepare the lower hole. Begin by bending a cable outer as shown
in the photo below. Hold a lighter to the cable outer so that the bend will
hold.
 Fit the cable with an insert. The picture below shows how the insert-cable
outer is to be mounted.

 Slide the insert and cable outer into the hole you drilled before. Now tilt
the insert downwards, so it points directly towards the firewall, parallel to
the cabin floor. First fix it in place using some masking tape as shown
above, and then apply epoxy resin around the insert on both sides of the
cabin floor for a more solid fixation. This is done to provide for smooth
cable movement.
Note: Previously, the insert was fixed directly to the cabin floor and the
cable entered it at an angle, which hampered movement. With the insert
facing forwards, the cable should move freely and without snags.
 Now trim the cable outer inside the cabin flush to the insert. Under the
cabin floor be sure to leave approximately 50mm of cable outer.

 Mount the pedal assemblies and apply Loctite 243 to the bolt threads.
Slide the pedals all the way to the end of the guide, so that they rest as
close to the firewall as possible. Feed the pedal adjustment chord through
the lower hole, under the cabin floor and up through the hole above the
pedal's rear mounting plate.
 Slide the rubber stopper and then the hollow hex bolt over the chord.
Hold the chord taut (not slack and not too tight) and measure the distance
from the rivet to the end of the chord. It should measure approx. 35 mm.

Then make a small loop at the end of the chord, fasten with a fastener and
screw on the small knob.
Mounting the spring:
 First you must drill two holes; the first should be drilled in the right side of
the carbon support (when looking towards to the motor from the rudder)
under the cabin floor. The other should be drilled in the fuselage just in
front of the undercarriage on the left side of the fuselage.
 Fix the small L-profile bracket into the left hole and fasten with a bolt.
 Now twist the ends of the spring into hooks and connect one end to the L-
profile bracket (or to the carbon support), and the other end to the pedal
adjustment cord, just between the two cable outers.
 Do the same with another spring between the hole in the carbon support
and the other pedal adjustment cord.


Fitting the rudder cables
 firstly lubricate the cables with WD-40 and also the cable outers.
 Feed the cables through from the firewall and into the cabin
 Gently tap the end screws into the fuselage
 Then find the hole that leads into the cabin and, being careful not to puncture/damage
the cabin interior wall, gently tap the end screw through.
 Then feed the cables through the pedal S-pipe, out the end and into the cable outers.

Then take the cables through to the rear of the fuselage, check them all for free movement.
Take care not to damage or crimp the cables. They will be attached to the rudder later.
Mounting the upper flaperon pushrod bracket

The upper flaperon pushrod bracket must be accurately positioned to ensure proper operation of
the assembly.
 Center the bracket between the cutouts and then offset it by 1mm. The longer side must
be on the pilots (left) side of the fuselage. Remember, the fuselage is currently upside
down, so think about it.
 Then position the part accurately and drill one 5mm hole only, insert the 5mm diameter
bolt and secure in place using the normal washer under the bolt head and the larger
washer under the nut in the rear of the fuselage
 Recheck the measurements and, when satisfied that it has not moved, drill the remaining
three holes and insert the bolts. Use Loctite 262 on the 4 nuts.

Mounting the electrical panel
Make sure the dash carpet is burnt through on the remaining holes, fit the plastic cable
grommets to stop the cables getting cut through, mount the pre assembled electrical panel
which includes the fuse box, regulator, battery and CDI unit, pull the electrical cables through
the dash for connection to the instruments.

Fitting the rudder assembly
 First cut the rudder cable outers to leave about 1cm showing in the rear of the plane.
 Then peak inside the hole at the base of the rudder and check the tension of 5 bolts
which secure the bracket. These are put in during manufacture, but it is necessary to
check and then mark them with paint.
 Now check the movement of the main pushrod for the aircraft. It goes through several
bearings and should move freely about 80 mm. Fit the bolt and nut in the rear where the
pushrod joins the bracket. When fitting the rear bolt you must use the special 1mm thick
washer as a spacer. There is a washer on each side of the pushrod. Attach the nut with
Loctite 262.
 Then feed the pushrod for the elevator through the rudder section and down to the rear
bracket. Again fit the bolt with two washers as bearings and the nut with Loctite 262.
Finally check the whole assembly for movement and mark the nuts with red paint.
 Depending on which aircraft you have, Sinus or Virus, you now have to insert the bolt to
secure the rudder wheel bolt or the rudder skid. Use the diagrams found in Appendix 5
and 5 to help with mounting the rudder wheel or skid.
 For this step, you may have to remove a little material from the fuselage bulkhead in
order to insert the bolt from the top. Use a rotary tool to do this and insert the rudder
wheel or skid.
NOTE: If you fit the stainless lower rudder support bracket FIRST, you will not be able to fit the
rudder skid or rudder wheel because it interferes with the part. Make sure to fit the skid or
rudder wheel first THEN fit the metal bracket which supports the rudder.

 The metal support bracket comes with 10 bolts. Secure each with Loctite 262.
Remember to tighten these bolts after about 5 hours of flight because they tend to move
a little when new.
 Fit the rudder stops and the nyloc securing nuts.
 Then fit the rudder attachment bracket. Apply grease to the bushing for lubrication and
attach it to the aircraft, using Loctite 262 on the nuts.


 Feed the rudder cables through from the middle of the aircraft, using a little WD-40 for
lubrication.
 Position the cable ends about ½ way between the bulkheads and mark the rear exit
points of the cable at the center of the holes as shown in the pictures
 Swage with the fittings supplied and a nicopress tool. Check that the swaged end is not
more than 5mm thick or it will not fit onto the bracket properly. If it is too thick it will
need to be pressed down to be less than 5mm. Put grease on the cable ends and insert
the small bush and position into the bracket. Fix the bolt and nut with Loctite 243.

Must be less than 5mm or it wont fit properly – use lots of grease

 Make a brace to keep the rudder bracket in the proper rudder position and to stop it from
turning. A diagram of the one Pipistrel uses in production can be found in Appendix 7.
 In the cockpit, fix the rudder pedals into the same position to keep the pedals aligned.
 Tape the pedals in place to stop them from moving.
 Check the front firewall and make sure the ends of the rudder cables are seated properly.
 Climb into the aircraft and pull all the cables tight, including the black outers which go
into the cockpit. Mark the correct position on the 4 front cables and create loops in the
cables using a double swage.
 Connect the cables together using the bolts, sleeves and large washers. Fix them with
Loctite 243 on the nuts.
NOTE: The Sinus has two cables from the front and one cable to the rear. The Virus has
an extra cable which leads to the front and is used to steer the nose wheel. If you need to
adjust the freeplay in the pedals it can be done by adjusting the screws in the firewall.

 Fit the top rudder support post. First find the location and mark with a pen, then sand
the back of the fitting and the area where it is going to mount and prepare a small
amount of epoxy. The bracket must be left in place for 1 day to allow the epoxy to cure
before it can be drilled and bolted (this will probably be fitted at the factory for safety
reasons)
 Wipe off the extra epoxy

Horizontal stabilizer preparation
After manufacture, the seam, which separates the upper and lower halves of the horizontal
stabilizer, is a little rough and needs to be cleaned up.
 Sand the leading edge with 1500 wet and dry to get a perfect finish. If there are any
little holes in the seam, fill them with white flexible polyester filler.

 Use a small spray gun to cover the connection seam between the two halves. Prepare
the rudder or wings for spraying. Make sure the surface is immaculately clean/dry and
mask the leading edges with tape and plastic to protect them from getting sprayed.

 Mix the special paint with acetone to thin it for spraying and then add 2% to 5%
hardener.
 Fill a small spray bottle while filtering the solution through a stocking.
 Be sure to use the required safety equipment including a respirator and gloves.
 Carefully build up several thin coats of the pigment and allow a minute of curing before
going over the same spot twice. When dry, remove the tape and buff the joint.
Preparing the elevator / rudder
 First go along and remove any little bumps from the top of the elevators posts. Sand the
horizontal stabilizer in the middle lightly to allow mounting of the serial number. Use a
Dremel again to tidy up the sides of the posts; they must be clean and unobstructed.

Now make shallow slots in the edge of the elevator in front of the hinges. This will
provide clearance for the elevator. Use the following pictures as examples.

 Then prepare the horizontal stabilizer mounting cap. First make a small mark about 1.5
mm down in the top mounting hole for securing the plastic cap in place, it only needs to
be about 1mm deep.
 Now grease the chamber where the locking mechanism fits

 Place the washer in the hole and then the spring, followed by the big bolt assembly. Note
that the ends of the locking circlip need to be ground down to fit properly
 Fit the circlip and check the operation of the bolt so it will lock when tightened.
 Unscrew the main mounting bracket on the horizontal stabilizer and check both bolts.
Then secure them with Loctite 262 and reassemble, checking the position pin for
tightness.
 Do not put tools on the pin side because if it becomes damaged you will not be able to fit
the elevator unit to the aircraft.

 Now you have to fit the elevator hinge pins. There are 6 pins holding the elevator; 5 are
pins and one is the locking pin.
 When screwing them on it is important not to scratch the pin as it will bind when fitted.
Lubricate the pins with grease and position the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer, knock
into place with a rubber hammer and check for free movement after each couple of hits.
Move the elevator up and down about 50 times to free up the hinges and then remove
the elevator.
 Clean the hinges with spirits, apply grease and refit to the stabilizer. Then repeat this
process several times to ‘work the hinges in’ and allow for free movement of the elevator.
When finished mark the pins with red paint.


Fitting the horizontal stabilizer
Preparing the rudder before mounting the elevator assembly:
 The first step is to trim the rudder, so that the elevator assembly can be properly
mounted. Use a Dremel to the grinding as shown in the photos below.
Outline Desired hole
Enlarging the hole in the upper rudder, as shown above, is done in order to make assembly of
the upper rudder bracket easier.
 Next, we must grind the support lip that sits above the upper edge of the rudder,
between the vertical elevator drive pushrod and the rudder. This is done to ensure this
lip doesn't hinder the elevator's movement. The lip should measure approx. 5mm above
the rudder's upper edge after grinding.

Original lip – grinding outline Ground lip
 Then a small indent in the lip must be ground. This is to ensure that the lip will not
hinder the movement of the elevator horn's bracket. The indent should also be approx. 5
– 6 mm deep.
 Lastly, before mounting the upper rudder bracket, be sure to grind and clean the surface.
Mounting the top rudder post and the elevator assembly:
 Drill and attach the top rudder post. The nuts are difficult to fit and require patience, so
try not to drop anything. The actual post assembly is already epoxied in place in an
earlier section.

 Assemble the control horn and bracket

 Fit the bracket to the horn with plenty of grease. Apply Loctite 243 and make sure the
hinge is free and easy to move with no binding.
 Now trial fit the horn. Sand the elavator's surface clean and remove any bumps to
ensure the horn fits nicely.

 If need be, bend the horn slightly to ensure the perfect fit.
 When you're satisfied with the horn's position and fit, drill the mounting holes.
 Then remove the rudder's top post and install the elavator's horn using the large washers
and nyloc nuts. Be sure to apply Loctite 243 to the bolts' threads.

 Then attach the pushrod to the horn. Use lots of grease and apply Loctite 243. Also
cover nuts with red paint as shown in the photos below.

Installation of the sliding elevator trim knob
 Fit the sliding elevator trim knob assembly into position under the floor. The shorter
cable must be directed towards the rear of the fuselage and the longer cable to the front
where it does a 180 degree turn and then exits to the rear in the main center tunnel.
 It is important to make sure these cables are positioned properly and that they do not to
loop around or bother any other cables and/or fittings under the floor
 Secure the assembly with the supplied screws. When fitting the trim knob there are
several important steps. Firstly the cables which attach to the trim knob need to face
downwards, towards the bottom of the aircraft. The washer needs to be positioned
between the cockpit floor and the sliding knob, not on top of the cockpit floor.
 Finally, lubricate the whole knob area with clean multi purpose grease. Be sure to use lots
of it because the trim knob runs aluminum on aluminum and, without adequate
lubrication, the mechanism will wear out quickly. Cover the area with tape to keep the
dirt and debris from the greased slider.


Fitting the trim system
The assembly
 Begin by removing the masking tape covers from the trim adjusting handle in the cockpit.
Make sure the trim handle position is locked in the middle by turning the locking knob.
 Then position the trimmer assembly into the rear of the aircraft. It should sit approx. 1
cm to the right of the push rod (when looking towards the rudder) and on top of the two
bulkheads.
 The link on the trimmer should be mounted on the right hand side to avoid hitting the
pushrod, this is important. Lastly, be sure that the link is mounted appropriately, so that
the end with the bigger hole is facing upwards.

 Drill the rear mounting hole first and then the front hole when the trimmer is properly
positioned.
 Push the pushrod back to the rudder as far as it will go and mount the rubber clamp
around the pushrod with about 1cm clearance and at an angle of about 45 degrees to
make it line up with the trim lever.
 Then push the pushrod to the front of the aircraft and mount another rubber clamp in a
similar fashion, but with a 1cm clearance to the front bulkhead.
 Connect the springs, but be careful because of the pressure. Be sure to use your whole
hand to push on the lever
 Then connect up the trim cables to the top of the trim lever, pull the cables as tight as
you can and also check they are still mounted securely in the trim unit in the cockpit.

 When you're happy with the setup, secure the cables to the trimmer using Loctite 243
and cut off the extra cable
 Be sure to use a swage on the cable ends to prevent the cables from fraying. Do not over
tighten the locking screw or you can cut into the cable and possibly break it.
 Mark the bolts with red paint afterwards.
 Put tape back over the trim handle in the cockpit to keep out the dust.

The Control System
The control system under the floor is made up of several parts.
The fitting of the control column is quite complex, but hopefully the attached pictures will help
with the assembly.
 The flap handle attaches as shown. There is no washers in this fitting, but it is fixed with
Locite 243.
 The pushrod attaches to the base of the control sticks. The front rod attaches to the left
handle and the rear rod connects to the right handle. The right pushrod has the larger
spacer to the front and the left pushrod has the larger spacer to the left.
 The spacers are machined and one end is chamfered, the chamfered end faces towards
the rod end.
 The whole assembly is secured with blue Loctite 243 and marked with red paint. Do not
use red Loctite 262, as you may occasionally have to adjust the fittings during the life of
the aircraft.




Mounting the control system
Before mounting the control rods, you must drill a 5mm hole in the cabin floor underneath the
aircraft to allow any condensation or water to drain from the aircraft (at the deepest part of the
cabin, where condensation could possibly build up). Afterwards, put the small red sticker
supplied over the top of the hole to mark its location.
Mounting the bell crank:
 Place the bell crank under the floor so that the forked end sits near the flap handle and
the other end near the carbon support underneath the cabin floor.
 Put the flap handle in the zero position.
 When mounting the front end of the bell crank, be sure to apply Loctite 243 (blue) to the
nut's threads beforehand. Furthermore (very important), place a wrench between the
bearing and the end of the bell crank during the process of fixing the assembly to the
carbon support (i.e while tightening the nut). This will prevent the bearing's housing
from rotating and any possible damage.
 Then tighten the rear end of the bell crank. Use blue Loctite 243 here as well. Mark the
front nut and the rear bolt with red paint.
When fixing the assembly to

the carbon support, place a
wrench head here between
the bearing and the bell crank
(see next photo).

Mounting the flaperon control vertical pushrods
 Install the flaperon control vertical pushrods as shown in the pictures below.
 Be sure to apply Loctite 243 to the nut's threads before tightening. Mark the nuts
afterwards with red paint.

Mounting the control stick drive:
 Before mounting the control stick drive, it is very important to set the flaperon control
vertical pushrods vertically symmetric and that they are held in that position while the
control stick drive is being mounted. This can be achieved by using a guide or jig on the
roof of the cabin, right where the vertical pushrods protrude outwards (see picture
below).
 On the floor of the cabin you'll find faint marks in the molding to mark the position of the
control stick drive mounting plates.
 Identify the positions and drill the holes with a 4mm diameter. Lightly sand the surface
underneath the holes to remove any debris from drilling. Use a vacuum to collect the
debris.
 Insert the control stick drive. Note that the shorter side goes to the left of the aircraft
when looking towards the motor.
 Fix the assembly to the floor of the cabin using the 8 screws provided. If the mounting
plates don't fit nicely to the bottom of the cabin floor, lightly grind the back edge of the
plates as shown in the pictures below.
 Once installed, examine the rotation of the control stick drive. It should rotate very
smoothly and without any resistance. If some resistance is encountered, unscrew the
mounting plates and open up the holes a little. Reexamine the rotation and, if need be,
continue opening the holes until smooth, unresisted rotation is achieved.
 If either of the control stops touch the opening in the floor, use a dremel and cut away
about 1mm of material. If you need to cut away any material make sure that you grind
the corners to leave a small radius, if you leave a corner square and sharp it may crack
some time in the future, if you leave the corner round it will not crack.
 Mount the elevator drive pushrod to the control stick drive. From experience it has been
found that having the locking nut turned 3 full turns off the thread end is desired, as this
will position the control sticks in a central position suitable for most pilots. Apply Loctite
243 and red paint.

Mounting the control sticks and connector shafts:
 Place the control stick, slip the bolt through, apply Loctite 243 to the nut and tighten.
Mark the nut with red paint.
 Setting the connector shafts is a little more complicated, because the control sticks must
be aligned and kept symmetric. This can be done with a guide/jig, similar to the one
shown below, which can be clamped to the fuselage. The appropriate distance between
control sticks can then be marked on the guide/jig.
 After assembling the connector shafts, examine the position of the control sticks related
to the marks on the guide/jig. If they are not aligned with the marks, disassemble the
connector shaft. Then screw or unscrew the connector shaft's bearing housing by one
turn, depending on the position of the control stick, and assemble the connector shaft
once again. Continue doing this until the control sticks are properly aligned and parallel.

Nose wheel cable preparation
 Drill two holes in the rear bulkhead at the same level as the rudder cables already fitted.
The do the same on the other side of the bulkhead. The positions and diameters come
already marked on the fuselage for you.
 Then drill holes in the seat bulkhead approx 10mm in from the edge of the tunnel. Again,
drill them at the same level as the existing rudder cables. The holes in the front are 100
mm from the flat area as shown in the photo. Drill 6mm holes and drop the drill to angle
the exits for the cables.
 Push the cable outer from the seat bulkhead towards the front of the aircraft and be sure
not to cross or go around any other cables under the floor.
 IMPORTANT: the rudder cables for the nose wheel MUST cross so the cable from the left
exits on the right hand side of the front holes. Be sure to secure it with a cable tie and
some super glue. The cables actually cross from left to right in the front of the cockpit,
just in front of the carbon support beam under the cabin floor.
 When positioned, run the cable outer through the rear bulkhead. For proper position, the
right hand side cable outer needs to go through a hole in the under floor carbon support.
Leave about 25mm out the front side of the cabin floor. Secure with a cable tie and a
drop of superglue. On the rear bulkhead leave about 100mm out and secure the same
way.
 Pull the cable outers tight before final positioning. It is very important to spray WD-40
into the cable outers for lubrication.


Finishing the rudder cables
For aircraft equipped with a nose wheel it is necessary to fit the pedal connectors to the steering
yoke, which comes through the firewall.
 Mark the cable position into the center of the holes in the fittings after securing the
rudder to be perfectly straight and also making sure the nose wheel is straight.
 Double swage using a nicopress.
 Fit the carbon covering between the firewall and the rudder cables. Hold it in place with
screws. The lid of the cable tunnel is fixed with Velcro
 Fit the bolts to hold the cables and secure with red Loctite 262. Use silicone to seal the
edges around the holder where it meets the floor of the aircraft.

Fitting the rudder

The rudder requires little preparation as it’s almost ready to fit when you receive it. There is a
little difference between the sinus and virus rudders; the sinus rudder has a fortified base to
compensate for the attachment of the rudder wheel rudder springs
 You need to grind a little material away from the base of the rudder where the bottom
mount is. Grind two pits in the rudder where the bolt heads sit when the rudder is placed
on the pivoting bracket (see photos below). The pits are located between
 It is normal to take about 3mm away from the sides to allow for full movement of the
rudder, it is necessary to get 30 degrees movement in each direction and the limiting
stops get adjusted on the large stainless bracket on the bottom of the rudder post. You
will also need to grind away the base of the rudder. Fit the zigzag rudder tape on the
rudder.

Fitting the brake lines
Feeding lines from under the fuselage, through the cabin floor and into the cabin:
 Feed the brake lines from under the fuselage into the cabin through the holes located
directly in front of the undercarriage legs. It is important to leave a loop in the ends
under the landing leg. If you pull it too tight you may damage the brake lines on the
edge of the drilled hole.
 Drill a 10 mm diameter hole just in front of the rudder cables in the center tunnel for the
exit of one brake line. It should be offset 10 mm to the right of center (when looking
towards the front of the aircraft).

 The brake line for the right pedals gets feed through the floor and through a small hole in
the side of the cavity under the floor. It exits out the long slot on the right hand side of
the cockpit floor. It is important to make sure the lines do not interfere with other cables
under the floor, so run the brake cables on the floor beneath all the other cables and
secure them down with tape and silicone.
 Slide about 350 mm of fuel hose over the right hand brake line to prevent the brake line
from getting worn out. When positioned correctly, add a small dab of Loctite 407 to hold
it in place.
 For the left brake line, fit a rubber grommet and feed it through the hole you drilled in the
middle of the cabin. Apply Loctite 406 to secure it and prevent it from wearing out.

Attaching the brake lines to the wheels (using plastic quick connect fittings):
 Feed the brake lines from the floor of the cabin through the legs as shown in the photos
below:
 Apply Loctite 243 to the threads of the quick connect fitting. Secure the Brake line in the
fitting and fit it to the wheel.

Attaching the brake lines to the wheels (using aluminum hydraulic line connectors):
 Apply grease to all the threads and place the fitting vertical. Be sure not to pull the brake
line too tight, allow a little freeplay. Remember the brake fittings have o rings and are
made from aluminum, so please don’t overtighten.

Connecting the brake lines to the pedals:
 The brake line, which enters the cockpit through the slot on the right hand side of the
cabin, connects to the bottom right quick connect fitting on the right hand pedals.
 The brake line, which enters the cockpit through the hole just in front of the rudder
cabels, connects to the bottom left quick connect fitting on the right hand pedals
 The left hand pedals are then connected to the top quick connect fittings on the right
hand pedals.
 Be sure to leave quite a bit of slack in the brake lines, so that the pedals can move freely
without being hindered.
 When completed add oil to the system.


Mounting the fuel lines in the cabin

 You are supplied with three fuel lines and quick connect fitting. Two lines are short and
one is long. The long line is the fuel return line which is used later in the process.
 Install the two shorter lines onto the fuel cocks as shown and secure with the supplied
hose clamps. Position the clamps with the screw fittings close to the wing root to keep
them clear of your hands etc in the cockpit and to eliminate any chance of catching
clothing on them.

 The main bulkhead comes with a large hole already drilled in the upper left hand corner.
Fit it with the provided rubber grommet and feed the long fuel return line to the left tank.
This is used as the return fuel line to avoid vapor lock.
 Tape over fuel line end fittings to keep dust and other debris from entering them during
the rest of construction before the fuel lines are finally fitted.
 The construction is now completed for the fuselage in the upside down position. With
the help of others, rotate the fuselage back to the correct position.
Fitting the windscreen

 First fit the windscreen support bracket by lining it up with the center of the aircraft
fuselage
 Then lay the windscreen into place and line it up with the fuselage center line. The
windscreen will only fit one way and not the other.

 Secure the screen initially with tape to find the correct position. Make sure there is an
even gap around the windscreen of about 2mm. It will help if you have an extra person.
 Drill the holes with a 3.2mm drill piece starting at the center hole near the firewall and
the center hole near the roof (use a Plexiglas drill if available). Make your way from the
roof downwards toward the firewall, drilling holes on both sides as you go.
 Insert a small screw in each hole as you drill to keep the windscreen positioned correctly.
Do about 8 holes and then do a couple on the front. The idea is to meet in the bottom
front corner. Between each hole drilled and screw placed, push the lexan down otherwise
you can get ripples in the screen and the screen will not fit or be optically correct.
 When all the holes are done remove the tape. Make sure to leave the lexan protective
covering on during these steps.
NOTE: it is important to use a drill stop to limit drilling depth to 10 mm. Around the bottom of
the windscreen it is not so crucial, but at the top there are two layers of fiberglass and you only
want to drill through one layer. The roof section has the double lip all the way around so the
special fitting must be used there also. It will look terrible and require repair if you go through
both layers.

 Double-check the windscreen fit for equal gap all the way around. The ideal gap is 2mm.
If the gap is too small, mark the screen for sanding.
 We can now prepare the windscreen for fitting to the fuselage. Use a light inside the
cockpit and shine it towards the outside of the aircraft. Using the shadow of the
fuselage's windscreen frame, trace the windscreen mounting lip line with a marker on the
outside. Allow about 1mm extra, because we use this line to paint the windscreen. This
will give the plane a professional finish just like the factory ones.
 Now repeat all the steps above for the the sunroof. Be sure to check first that the
mounting lip doesn't have any traces of body filler. Remove if necessary.

 Continue preparing the windscreen and the sunroof by redrilling all the holes with a
4.5mm drillpiece. This is 0.5mm bigger than the rivets and will stop any cracks in the
lexan screens from developing due to engine vibration or temperature change.
 Using a countersinking tool, take the sharp edge off each hole at the top and bottom.
This will stop cracks from developing in the screen.
 Use a de-burring tool on the top and bottom of the screen and roof panel to give a nice
chamfered finish.

 Pull back the plastic on the bottom side of the screen to expose the line drawn earlier.
Even though the line is on the other side of the screen, it is still possible to see it ok.
 Hold the plastic back with masking tape and then using electricians plastic tape carefully
mark out the line for painting. It is important to sand the surface to be painted with 1000
grit sandpaper and remove all the shine
 Spray with the provided black bumper spray,one light coat first and then another after
about 2 minutes. If you leave it too long it will look a different colour to the first coat.
 Allow to dry for at least one day, if you don’t the paint will get scratched off when fitting
the screen, it must be allowed to harden, do not remove any of the tape until completely
dry.
 Now you can mount the windscreen and sunroof using the provided rivets. Be sure to
inspect all edges afterwards and make any necessary touch ups.

Installation of the strobes
It is easier to mount the strobe box before the chute container is mounted, but it is still possible
to do it afterwards. The strobe kit looks like the kit shown below, except that the wires are a
different colour and it comes with a white Velcro patch.
 Mount the strobe box on the floor of the fuselage, just behind the cabin bulkhead on the
right hand side (when looking towards the engine from the tail). Fix it into place using the
white Velcro patch supplied. Be sure to position it so that the the side with the fixation
holes is facing starboard and electrical inputs are pointing towards the engine.

 Now take the grey cable and run it from the power supply, under the cabin floor to the
strobe box.
 Connect the strobe box and the microphone to the connector, which is at the end of the
grey power supply cable. The picture below shows the black strobe box wire and the red/
black microphone wire connected to one side of the connector, with the grey power
supply cable on the other side.

 Run the black wire from the power supply connector to the strobe box.
 Then run both blue strobe wires from the strobe box, along the bottom of the bulkhead
and through the plastic loops already mounted for the fuel lines. The strobe wire should
follow the fuel lines from behind the cabin, through the hole with the rubber grommet, to
the wing root.
 Lastly, run the red/black wires from the connector to the microphone along the backside
of the central cabin beam.

Fitting the engine (part 1)
Fresh out of the box, your Rotax engine should look like this:
 First remove the carburetors. They are mounted to the intake manifold with rubber
sleeves and hose clamps. Loosen the clamps and remove the carburetors.
 Next you need to disconnect the electronics and remove the intake manifolds .
 Mark the black box's connectors (i.e. which wire goes with which wire). If wrongly
reconnected later, you may damage the engine. Be careful not to drop any washers into
the magneto.
 Also mark the crankcase just below the intake manifold with cylinder numbers 1 to 4.


 Be sure to cover or place plugs in any openings that are created by removing elements.
 Remove the coolant canister and its rubber hoses. Rinse them clean.
 Mark the metal spouts at the end of of the houses with the same cylinder numbers you
marked the crankcase with before.
 Now remove the meal spouts and put plugs in the openings.
 Lastly, remove the main front bolt from the crankcase.

 Now take the Pipistrel plastic ventilation cover and stick the pieces of foam provided in
the appropriate places. One piece should be placed on the inside of every leg and three
pieces need to be placed one on top of the other in the front. See pictures below.
 Fit the Pipistrel plastic ventilation cover back on the motor.

 Now fit the Pipisterl engine mount. The top bolt should be tightened with a torque
wrench to 27 N.m, while the two side bolts should be tightened to 35 N.m.
 Apply blue Loctite 243 to the threads first.

 Take the metal spouts you removed earlier and sand the ends lightly with sandpaper.
 Now mount them back onto the crankcase, BUT BE SURE TO SWITCH METAL SPOUT 2
WITH METAL SPOUT 4. Therefore, the spout that was located above cylinder 4 before
you removed it, should now be placed above cylinder 2. Apply blue Loctite 243.

 Now take the provided Pipistrel cooling system pipe and fit as shown in the photos below.
You can use the rubber hosing that came with the original coolant canister. You'll just
need to trim the hosing a little to the proper lengths.
 Place two strips of rubber hosing in between the cooling system pipe and the plastic
ventilation cover, just near the Pipistrel engine mount. This will make sure nothing
rattles due to vibrations. Use red paint on the screws to mark them as finished.

 Now mount the black Pipistrel bracket which was provided with the kit. The throttle and
choke cable plate will eventually be bolted to this bracket.
 At this point you can also fit the temperature sensor screw at the top of the cooling
system pipe. Apply Loctite 577.
 Remount the manifolds using blue Loctite 243. Mark the bolts with red paint.
 Remove the spark plugs and check the electrode gap. It should measure 0.5 mm. Adjust
accordingly.
 Remount the spark plug, being sure not to tighten them too much because it could crack
or seize in the cylinder head. Use a torque wrench and tighten to 20 N.m.
 Mount the propeller control arm. Apply blue Loctite 243 to ensure it does not loosen.

Now it is necessary to remove, add and rearrange certain electrics components. When finished,
the electronics will be fixed above the 1st and 3rd cylinder heads.
 Mount the small L-profile brace provided using blue Loctite 243.
 Now remove the two coils (black boxes) marked A and B along with their connector
cables.
 Also remove the weird-shaped bracket which serves as a the connector holder.

 Arrange the connector cables so that they lay on side, while the black grounding cables
line on the other. Use the photo below to see how to place them

 Now fit the the two coils with with the small 4mm-long bracket as shown in the photo
below.
 Then take the coils and fix them to the top ends of the A-shaped brackets, using blue
Loctite 243 as you go.
 Find the two 44mm-long brackets provided, which have a small groove in the edge at one end.
 Mount the first one at the bottom end of the A-bracket as shown in the photos below. Be sure to use a
polystop nut with blue Loctite 243.

 Fit the small L-shaped bracket with the off-centered hole to the top of cylinder head one.
 Fit the rubber stopper as well.
 Now take another rubber stopper, trip it's thread down to 8.5mm, clean it up a little and mount it on the
other L-shaped bracket you fit earlier.
 Take the other 44mm-long bracket fit it above cylinder head 3, pinning both grounding wires
underneath the bolt.
 Find the longer rubber stopper, which has thread on both ends, and shorten one side to 8.5mm. Fit it
to the bracket you just mounted above cylinder head 3, with the shorter thread facing down.

 Now you can mount the electronics and fix them to the brackets you have installed. Try to arrange the
wiring, so that they're in order. Use plastic ties to fix them to the engine block and keep them
organized.
 Modify the weird-shaped connector brace, which you removed earlier. You have to remove the two
prongs marked, make an indent into one edge and drill a 7mm-diameter hole.
 When finished, clean up the edges with a file and fit it between the two A-shaped braces, just above
the electronics.

 Find the long brace provided, which has an oblong hole. Be sure to use a polystop nut at the end that
gets fixed to the A-shaped brace.
 Pair connectors A and B with their respective connectors and slide them onto the prongs located
between both A-shaped braces.
 Now pair connectors 1 and 2 with their respective connectors and slide them onto the other set of
prongs.

 Group and rearrange the cables and wires, so that they are neatly organized. Use plastic ties to group
them.
 You can also reconnect the cables to the spark plugs now.
 Start putting together the fuel distributor. Pipistrel's distributor and 4 spouts are provided with the kit.
Fit the two silver spouts with shorter threads on the sides and the one with a little longer threads in the
center.

 Find the gold-coloured fuel return pressure control jet. This needs to be fitted in the 4th spout. Tap the
spout and fit the jet. Be sure to place the jet, so that it's threads go into the spout last.
 Fit the 4th spout to the distributor with the two washer's provided and the special bolt, which has a small
hole in it's head.
 Now secure the upper spout using cablewire. Utilized the holes in the upper bolt's head and the
distributor. See photo's below.

 Reuse the rubber hoses that you removed earlier with the cooling canister. Trim them so that you have
3 hoses with different lengths; 500mm, 530 mm and 380mm.
 Set up the distributor as seen in the picture below. Fit the 530mm hose to the left spout, the 500mm
hose to the right spout and the 380mm hose to the front spout. Use 12mm diameter hose clamps.
 Cut one more length of hose to 920mm.
 Now place the distributor on the motor as shown in the photos below. One hose gets fed towards the
fuel pump, one through cylinder heads 2/4 and the last under cylinder head 3.

 Fit the 380mm hose to the fuel pump's inner spout using a 12mm hose clamp. Attach one end of
920mm hose to the fuel pumps outer spout. Feed the other end of the 920mm hose between cylinder
heads 1 and 2. Leave it there for future use.
 Clamp the distributor down using ties, but place a piece of foam underneath first.

 Mount the oil temperature sensor and the cylinder head temperature sensor as shown in the photos
below. Apply Loctite 577.
 You can start mounting the oil cooler by giving the two holes at the front of the crankcase
a nice chamfer. Then clean them up and fit the two Pipistrel extension bolts. Apply blue
Loctite 243.
 Fit two rubber stoppers onto the ends of the extension bolts. Shorten the threads a little
to ensure a good fit.
 Now you can mount the oil cooler.

 Now that you've mounted the oil cooler you can also fit the propeller pitch-correction
lever with the provided spring and greased up washer at the end.
 Above the 2nd and 4th cylinder heads there's a couple of mounting clips. Fit the one
shown in the photos below with the provided cable holder.
 Then fit the cable holder with the provided cable guide. Apply blue Loctite 243.
 Heat the end of a 60mm plastic hose and fit it to the end of the cable guide.
 Fit the throttle/choke cable plate.

 Prepare a 520mm rubber hose and run it from the oil cooler, under the brace with the
oblong hole and towards the cylinder head 1. Use a 18mm-diameter hose clamp. Leave it
there for future use.
 Cover the end of the cooling system pipe and turn the motor upside down.
 Remove the two large support brackets and also the water pump.

 There is a need to modify the water pump. The photo below shows which elbows need to
be modified. The bottom right needs to be switched with the 90o elbow provided with the
kit, while the upper left elbow needs to be repositioned, so it does not interfere with the
engine mounts. In general, the whole point of modifying the water pump, is to make for
an easier fit to the engine.
 The elbows come fixed to the water pump with green Loctite 648. Thus, using a head
gun, heat the two elbows mentioned above to at least 250o Celsius (480 degrees F) and
remove them, being sure not to damage the elbow threads.
 Switch the bottom right elbow with the 90o elbow supplied.
 Clean both both elbows with a metal brush and refit them to the water pump.
 You can also sandpaper the face of the water pump a little.
 Now hold the water pump up against the engine and determine how the elbows should be
oriented, so that they don't interfere with the engine's mounts. Mark the positions.
 Take the water pump back to the work bench and apply blue Loctite 243 to the threads of
both elbows and fit them back in the marked positions.
 Remount the water pump on the engine.


 Refit the water pump with the rubber hoses, but this time add insulated sleeves to the
upper two hoses as shown in the photo below.

 Using cable wire, firmly lockwire the oil plug located near the oil gasket, the bolt head
below the oil gasket and the loop in the engine crankcase.
 Do the same for the banjo fitting located on top of the crankcase. Fit it with insulated
rubber hosing and position the hosing as shown in the photos below.

 If you ordered an oil thermostat with your engine, then you can now mount the provided
elbow to the oil pump. Clamp some insulated rubber hosing to it and position the hose so
that it follows the hose you just clamped to the gold oil spout on the crankcase.
 If you did not order an oil thermostat with your engine then a uninsulated rubber hose
can be connected from the oil pump to the oil cooler's upper spout as shown in the
photos below

 Now step back from the engine and look to see which cables and hoses can be tied
together with plastic ties. This is done to keep the engine elements neat and tidy, as well
as to keep hosing away from elements which tend to get hot during operation.
 Now set up the pickups. Ensure that there is a gap of 0.35mm. If the gap is not correct
you can alter by adjusting the bolts beside them.

 Now loosen the carburetor mounting clamps and refit the carburetors to the engine. The
pictures below show how they look before being modified.
 Remove the throttle control lever from the throttle shaft and remove the support bracket
from the top of the carburetor. The brass bowden cable mounting fitting for the throttle
cable has to be removed from the support bracket and screwed into the carburetor,
pointing down toward the throttle lever. The curved bowden cable tube that routes the
choke cable to the choke lever needs to be loosened and rotated to point forward, angled
to pass to the side of the throttle bowden fitting.
 The choke shaft has a dimple engraved at the end. When mounting the brackets on the
shaft make sure the dimple is facing downwards.
 Open up the large hole in the end of the throttle stop lever to 7 mm, and then the allen
screw, brass sleeve, brass washer and nut on the end of the original throttle control lever
are removed from that lever and remounted in the 7 mm hole on the throttle stop lever.
For the Sinus installation, the throttle cable is connected to this screw/sleeve/washer
assembly and moves the throttle shaft via the throttle stop lever, rather than the original
throttle control lever.
 The throttle return spring that was disconnected from the throttle control lever is now
connected to the throttle stop lever. Note that this revised return spring connection
causes the spring pressure to hold the throttle at the fully closed position, rather than the
fully open position that is standard for the Rotax. Thus the Sinus throttle cable pulls the
throttle open against the return spring tension. In the standard Rotax throttle operation.
the throttle cable pulls the throttle closed against the return spring tension.

 The photos below show the carburetors assembled and disassembled before being
modified, as well as the modified carburetors.

 Collect the throttle/choke cables. You should have received one long one and three
slightly longer ones.
 Start with the longer one. This cable is the throttle cable for the left carburetor, because
it is positioned a little further back from the carburetor control bracket than the right
carburetor. Slide it through the upper fitting near the carburetor head and fix it to the
throttle lever using the locking screw.
 Crimp an aluminum cable swage to the end of the cable and trim any excess cable.
 Attach the choke cables in a similar fashion.
 Use heat shrink tubing and a heat gun to secure the cables in the fittings.

 Feed all the carburetor cables to the upper end of the carburetor cable control bracket.
Slide heat shrink tubing on each cable. Ensure that you have positioned them correctly.
The picture below shows how both choke cables are on the left hand side (when looking
towards the propeller end) and both throttle cables are on the right.
 From the upper edge of the carburetor cable control bracket, measure 50 mm and trim all
four cables.
 Take both throttle cables and fit them into the brace holder. Fix them in place using the
screw and then permanently fix them by soldering.
NOTE: For this step, it is extremely important that the cable housings are always placed firmly
in the fittings and that there is no slack in the cables.

 Set the minimum throttle for both carburetors by measuring the gap between the stopper
bolt and the throttle lever shown in the picture below.
 The gap needs to be 0.5mm. Use your feeler gauge to set this. Once this is set, tighten
the stopper bolt another ¾ of a turn to achieve the proper minimum throttle setting.

 Now you can start cleaning up a little and organizing cables and hoses. Find the two
hoses that run from the fuel pump. Fix them to the brace (the one between the
electronics and the crankcase) using plastic ties.
 Also fix the two cables that come from the oil pump and the banjo fitting on the
crankcase.
 Do the same for the carburetor control cables.
 Find the fuel line, which runs from the fuel pump between cylinder heads 2 and 4. Also
find the L-shaped, diagonally-bent brace provided with the kit.
 Mount the brace onto the top of cylinder head 4 as shown in the photo below.
 Fit the fuel line with a hose clamp and fix it to the brace.
 Then install the gas-flow sensor. Make sure the arrow on the sensor points towards the
carburetor. Use two 13mm hose clamps on either end of the sensor and a 12mm hose
clamp for attaching it to the carburetor.
 Cover the gas-flow sensor with orange rubber insulation. Run the sensor's wire toward
the carburetor end.

 The large red cable, which comes with the kit, is for the starter. Attach the cable to the
lug on the starter using a plain nut and a lock washer.

 You can now begin mounting the exhaust system. Coat the cylinder head exhaust ports
with Antiseize and mount the provided exhaust pipes as shown in the photos below.
 Fix the piping in position with the provided springs.

 Prepare the muffler but spreading the Antiseize around the inlets and outlets.
 Prepare the support bracket assembly. This includes a bolt, 4 washers, two rubber seals,
two standard nuts, a polystop nut, a spacer and an L-shaped bracket. The placement
order is as follows. Bolt, big washer, rubber seal, muffler bracket, rubber seal, big
washer, spacer, small washer, nut, nut, L-shaped bracket, small washer, polystop nut.
 Apply blue Loctite 243.
 Mount the springs to fix the muffler in place.
 Coax and adjust the exhaust system's components to achieve proper placement.
 Tighten the nuts at the exhaust ports. Tighten them as evenly as possible until
everything is snug.

 Now install all four exhaust gas temperature sensors. Apply Antiseize. To keep track of
which wires are which, you can number the wires with the corresponding cylinder head.
 Organize the wiring for all sensors; exhaust gas temperature sensors, oil temperature
sensor, oil pressure sensor and cylinder head temperature sensor. The goal is to run the
wires towards the back of the motor along the groove beside the crankcase and behind
the cylinder heads.

 Lockwire all of the exhaust system joints which are fixed together by springs. See photos
below.
 Also lockwire the muffler to the L-shaped brace.
 Mount the exhaust temperature guards to the exhaust elbows which run from cylinder
heads 3 and 4. Use the hose clamps and toothed washers provided.
 Now mount the hose for the water pump as shown in the photo below. Mark the bolts
with red paint when finished.


 You can now mount the oil thermostat. Find both oil lines which run from the oil cooler.
Fit them to the thermostat using hose clamps. Mark the clamps with red paint.
 Fix the thermostat around the manifold arm above cylinder head 3 using plastic ties.
 Leave the thermostat outputs for now, we will complete the thermostat installation once
the engine is mounted on the fuselage.
 Now fit the engine mount to the engine. Each of the four engine mount attach points is
captured by a bolt, two washers, two steel cups, two rubber shock absorbers and a
bushing, secured by a nylon lock nut. When the parts are assembled and the engine
mount point is secured between the rubber shock absorbers, the nut is tightened on the
bolt until the two steel cups bear directly on the bushing.
 Ensure that the rubber shock absorbers sit nicely and are not angled.
 Be sure to tighten all nylon lock nuts with a torque wrench to 24Nm and apply blue Lotite
243.


 Mount gascolator on the bracket that is attached to the lower left engine mount attach
point. This is accomplished using two 1 cm spacers (Pipistrel part 1033003), two M6 x 30
hex bolts, two 6 mm flat washers, two 6 mm lock washers and two plain nuts. In
addition to the lock washers. Apply blue Loctite 243 on the nuts.
 Cut a length of fuel hose and fire sleeve from the end of the fuel supply line and attach
the fuel flow sensor to the outlet of the gascolator, using cable ties at the fittings.
 Route the fuel flow sensor wire down the engine mount and follow the other wires to the
point where it will go through the firewall, securing the wires to the engine mount tubes
with cable ties.

Fitting the engine (part 2)
 Feed the two sets of various sensor wiring through the firewall. Be sure to group the
wires with plastic ties and secure them to the firewall feed tubes using black silicon.
 Find the return fuel line, slide some rubber orange insulation over it and feed it from the
firewall to the 4-way fuel distributor.
 Fit the fuel line to the top nozzle with a hose clamp using a hose clamp
 Lockwire the nozzle's bolt head to the 4-way distributor.
 Find the fuel supply line, which is run through the firewall to the T-junction, and connect
it to the fuel supply line to the gascolator. Use hose clamps and protect it with orange
rubber insulation.
 You can now fit the other fuel line, which runs from the fuel pump, to the gascolator. Be
sure to fit it with two hose clamps, one at the end and one on on the existing bracket just
above cylinder head 4. This is the same bracket you mounted to hold the fuel line with
the gas flow sensor.

 Slide both the choke and throttle cable outers through the firewall as seen in the photo
below.
 Then feed the cable outers under the cabin floor through the hole under the avionics.
Proceed to feed back into the cabin through the appropriate holes under the
choke/throttle handle assembly. Fit the each outer to its corresponding handle.
 Do the same for the other end of the cables. Mount them into the appropriate fittings on
the carburetor cable control bracket.

 Now prepare the actual cables. Fix (solder) one end of each cable with the bolt/pin fitting
shown in the photo below.
 Install one bolt/pin fitting into the choke handle and the other into the throttle handle.
Then fit the cable through the assembly and into the cable outer.
 Remove the handle covers to make this process easier.

 Make your way back to the carburetor cable control bracket, pull the cables tight to
ensure that they are taught and also check to see that the outers are sitting nicely in
their respective fittings.
 Line up the cable with the brace holder and mark the cable directly in the middle of the
hole. Trim the cable and solder a bolt/pin fitting to the end. Do the same for the other
cable.
 Once finished, cover the carburetor control joints with grease.

 Mount the radiator overflow bottle to the upper left engine mount tube, using two hose
clamps, cap screws and washers. These 16 mm hose clamps have been modified to
include nutserts for securing them to the engine mount.

 Mount the radiator on the engine mounts using the bolts and washers provided. Apply
blue Loctite 243.
 Connect the long radiator hose to the upper radiator fitting just below the filler cap. Use
a 25-40 mm hose clamp.
 Use the piece of long radiator hose that you trimmed off earlier to connect the main
cooling pipe to the other radiator fitting. Use a 25-40 mm hose clamp.
 Connect the radiator to the overflow bottle using blue plastic tubing. Use a heat gun to fit
it over the spout and then fix it with plastic ties.
 Fill the radiator with the coolant solution and water.

 Mount the oil reservoir. Fit it with both elbows provided and connect them to the oil
thermostat using black rubber hosing and hose clamps.
 Fit the oil reservoir with a blue plastic hose and run it around the back of the reservoir an
down the fuselage rim. This hose lets air flow into the reservoir, which allows the oil to
flow.
 Check the gap under the throttle control screw again. It should be 0.5mm. Adjust the
screw if it is not.
 Lockwire the oil reservoir release bolt, found under the reservoir. See photo below.
 Use a heat gun to fix any left over heat shrink tubing to their corresponding fittings.


Fitting the dashboard
All the instrument installation and wiring should be completed outside the aircraft for ease of
assembly / installation. There are two types of dashboards; the standard dash and the new
larger big instrument panel. For those people who want to fit lots of instruments, the larger
panel will be necessary. If you are building a basic aircraft, use the smaller dash to save weight.
 With each dash the fitting process is the same. The larger dash will require two people to
install, move the dashboard into the aircraft and position it centrally. It is necessary to
push the dash forward and downwards at the same time to position it correctly on the
floor and against the firewall.
 The dash is secured in place with screws. Mount the foot first, where the dash connects
to the floor, and then mount the other screws around the dashboard. When drilling the
screws it is important not to drill too deep into the floor, as it is possible to hit other
cables. Moreover, if you drill too deep on the cockpit side, you will drill right through to
the other side of the fuselage.
 When the dash is mounted, remove the front panel with the switches and the
instruments. Then finish the wiring for the individual instruments using the pictures
below and the diagram in Appendix 11.



Fitting the front cowls
Connecting the two cowls and fitting the seam screws:
 The cowls have small indents along the rim where they connect together. These indents
indicate where the first set of holes are to be drilled. Mark them with a pen and put the
two halves together. Hold them together with tape.
 The two halves should fit together nicely. If this is not the case, use a file to straighten
out any rough edges.
 Drill a 3mm hole through both cowls and secure with a small screw. Repeat this for the
remaining holes. Turn and complete the other side.
 Separate the two sides and redrill the top cover's 3mm holes with a 6.2mm drill bit for
the quick connect screws.

 The screws, when fitted, must slide freely, so run a light round file through the hole to
open it up a little if it doesn’t slide
 When the quick release screw is fitted, put on the special split washer to stop the quick
connect from coming off.
 Don't mistake the quick connect screws for the fuselage rim with those for the side
connecting seam (see photo below). The correct quick fit screw and fitting assembly for
the cowl connection seam has a smaller washer.

 Now redrill the 3mm holes in the lower cowl using a 11.5mm drill bit.
 Chamfer the holes to ensure that the quick release fitting sits nicely.
 Secure the fitting using the spacer and nut. Apply Loctite 243.
Adjusting the bottom cowl for the nose wheel (APPLIES ONLY TO AIRCRAFT WITH A NOSE
WHEEL):
 Mount the cowls and determine where the hole for the nose wheel should approximately
be (see photos below)
 Mark the bottom cowl and, after removing the cowls, cut the nose wheel hole. Make a
rough cut first and then you'll be able to file it down for the perfect fit later.
 Remount the cowls over the engine.
Aligning the cowl and the spinner:
The position of the cowl is important, because if it is off center it will look terrible with the
spinner, and if it is really out of alignment it will hit the spinner!

 Mount the two cowls as nicely as possible and mount the spinner backplate on the front
as well.
 Now step in front of the aircraft and take a look at the alignment. The top cowl scoop
should be nicely aligned with the radiator inside. The spinner backplate should also be
nicely aligned with the two scoops beside it. Poor alignment of these elements could lead
to poor engine cooling, interrupted propeller rotation and/or overall reduced
aerodynamics.
 Now step to the side of engine and examine the fitting between the cowls and the
fuselage. The fit should be tight and smooth. The gap between the cowls and the
fuselage should be the same all the way around. The same goes for the gap between the
cowls and the spinner backplate. Use a file to straighten the gap.
 When you are sure that everything is aligned nicely, tape the cowls to the fuselage using
tape and mark a centerline at the top using the windscreen brace as a guide.
Check Alignment

 Check to make sure that the scoops don't interfere with the radiators. If need be, use a
file resize the scoops.
Drilling the holes for the cowls and the fuselage:
 The first step is to measure and mark where the holes will be drilled on the tape around
the cowls. Let's start with the upper cowl.
 Find the center line between the upper and lower cowl. Measure 20 mm upwards along
the gap and 13.4mm towards the spinner. This is where the first hole is located. Do the
same on the other side of the upper cowl.
 Now find the centerline you marked before at the top of the upper cowl, which
corresponds with the windscreen's brace. Measure 13.4 mm along the centerline towards
the spinner and mark it for the third hole.

 Between the top hole and each side hole, which you have already marked, there is a need
to mark 4 more drilling points, making for a total of 11 holes. Therefore, divide the
remaining space between the side hole and top hole into 5 sections, each approximately
117-118 mm long.
 Start by drilling a 3mm hole at the top of the upper cowl at the spot you marked. Then
drill one hole on the right side, then the next on the left, then the next on the right and
so on. Make sure you fit temporary screws as you go. Do so until you reach both side
holes and you have a total of 11 holes.
 Now let's drill the holes into the lower cowl. As with the upper cowl, find the centerline
separating the two cowls and measure 20mm downwards along the gap and then
13.4mm towards the spinner. Mark this spot for the first hole.
 From the first hole, measure downwards approx. 125 mm and mark this sport for the
second hole.
 Do the same on the other side of the lower cowl

 Drill all four holes with a 3mm drill and fit with temporary screws.
Mounting the quick connect screws and fittings:
 Remove both cowls and use a 6.2mm drill piece to open up all of the holes in the upper
cowl. Open up the holes in the lower cowl with a 4mm drill bit.
 Now you have to fit each hole in the upper cowl with a quick connect screw (the ones
with the star washer, not the split washer). The quick connect screws around the
fuselage are designed to hold secure, while the ones that hold the two cowls together are
designed to move in out. This makes for easy removal of the cowls.
 To fit the quick connect fittings to the top of the upper cowl you need to support the
fitting in a tube. Place a tube in the vice and insert the head of the quick connect screw,
slide the star washer over the top and gently tap into place with another slotted tube.
This tube will clear the prongs on the quick connect screw. Tap the washer down until
firm, in the end we have secured fittings in the top of the upper cowl

Drilling the fuselage holes:
 Using a self-centering 11mm drill piece, redrill all of the upper cowl fuselage holes.
 Add a chamfer and check under the hole to see if the surface is flat. The surface needs to
be flat for the quick connect fitting. If necessary, grind the surface flat.
 Mount the quick connect fittings and tighten with a spacer and nut. Apply Loctite 243.
Note: The quick connect fitting located at the top of the cowling in the center must be
connected using epoxy mixed with cotton, because there isn't enough space for the
spacer and nut.
 Now redrill the fuselage holes for the bottom cowl using a 7mm self-centering drill piece.
 The lower cowl is fitted with special nicopress inserts as the fiberglass is quite thick in this
location. Thus it is necessary to Dremel it thinner. Insert the tool from behind and
attach to the Dremel. Work it backwards from behind the fiberglass to make the wall
thickness thinner. If it stays thick the nicopress will not take up and it will slip.
 It is also necessary to remove any firewall material from behind this fitting as the
nicopress needs to sit square and at 90 degrees otherwise the screw will go in crooked.
 Lastly, install the four nicopress inserts for the lower cowl.
Altering the front of the lower cowl:
 Locate the oil cooler's left edge and extend a line along it on the lower cowl. Extend the
curved edge of the lower cowl to meet the line you've just drawn.
 Cutaway the material, dremel and file for a nice finish.

Fitting the cowl around the exhaust and final cowl touch ups
The following task requires a little creative judgment.
Cutting the hole for the exhaust pipe:
 Mount the lower cowl and estimate where the exhaust will protrude, it being that the
outlet is angled and the end position won’t be where the hole position will end up.
 Try to have about 1cm around the exhaust for freeplay.
 When happy grind a hole with the Dremel and sand smooth.
 Apply some black silicone around the opening to seal the hole off from contaminants.
Cutting the holes for the fuel refill nozzle and the fuel/water drain valve:
 With the lower cowl already mounted, take a marker, reach into the engine and draw two
lines on cowl's inner lining, directly underneath the fuel/water drain valve. The first
should be a straight line parallel to the fuselage's main axis. The other should be a
straight line at a 90 degree angle to the first.
 Then gentle push the bottom cowl up against the refill nozzle, just hard enough to leave a
mark on the cowl's inner lining, but not hard enough to damage it.
 Remove the cowl and examine the marks you made. Find the spot under the fuel/water
drain valve where your two lines meet and drill a hole with a 45mm diameter.
 Now align the cowl so that you are looking at the spinner end from the firewall end. Find
the indent you made with the refill nozzle. The hole for the refill nozzle must be 10mm to
the right and 10mm upwards from this indent (see photos below). Drill a hole with a
57mm diameter.
 Use sand paper rolled up to do the final clean up of the holes. Clean up the odd bit of
firewall fluff by cutting with a sharp knife, run a small bead of black silicone around the

holes and nose leg openings and work it in with your finger to seal the heat proof
material and the fibers of carbon.
Preparing the front air scoop and the oil cooler:
 First place the air scoop extension on the the cooling system and mark the scoop with the
holes for the exhaust clearance and the fuel pump cooling slots
 Make the holes and, when satisfied, use 3 rivets to secure the scoop extension.
 Then fit the self adhesive foam to the outside of the scoop to ensure an airtight fit when
the cowling is in place. This will direct the most air into the engine for cooling.
 Then seal the foam's open edge with black silicon.
 Also fit self adhesive foam around the outside of the oil cooler and seal it with black
silicon, as done with the air scoop.

Mounting the lower cowl positioning brackets:
 Refit the cowls and then drill/mount the final positioning brackets as per the attached
photo
 Note that the virus, with its nose leg, doesn’t have a bracket in the middle of the
fuselage.
 Finally grind away the final fit for the nose leg, have clearance of 10 mm on the sides and
20 mm to the front, have the same for the exhaust opening.

Propeller setup
 First fit the hub, spacer and spinner to a balancing stand and check for balance. If the
hub begins rotating by itself pull it off and rotate the backing plate or the spacer and try
again. Keep repeating until the prop stops rotating.
 Mark the position of all three units with a marker pen; the propeller hub, the spacer and
the backing plate.
 Pull the hub apart and check if the pushrods fit properly. They must move freely, the
longer one must have a little freeplay to ensure smooth operation.
 Check the levers on the end of the blades for free movement. These levers adjust the
blade angles. Fit the bolt through the two blades and through the center. Be sure to fit
the brass washers in place and apply Loctite 243 to the nuts. Do not overtighten! Check
for free movement of the blades.
 Check the clearance on the end of the bolt. If it is too close, cover the prop and file it
down. Make sure there is at least 1mm clearance.
 Put on the top half of the hub being sure to align to the marks on the hub.

 Assemble the hub, the spacer and the backing plate and put the assembly back on the
prop balancer. Check the balance with the blades in place. Check blade movement again.
They should move freely but not too loosely. There will be a little resistance if they are
set up properly.
 If there is a little resistance use valve-grinding polish and put on the spleen and work the
propeller for a few minutes.
 Remove the propeller from the stand after adjusting the blade angles to be the same.
 Separate the prop hubs by tapping some bolts to break it open.


 It’s now necessary to clean the grinding paste out. Begin by marking the blade and the
hub. To make sure you don’t reassemble the blades 180 degrees out and upset the
balance, insert a grub screw with Loctite 243 180 degrees on the opposite side of blade
levers.
 Grease the internals of the prop. Reassemble it and mount it back on the stand. Double
check the blade angles and insert the 4 bolts to lock the hub. Also insert the grub screws
into the adjusting rings on the blade ends.
 Mount the spinner and mark it for blade movement. Determine how much to grind off
with Dremel for appropriate clearance.
 Now remount and check again. If the propeller is out of balance you can apply some black
nitro spray paint to the lighter blade for balance. In really bad cases you an use a small
nut and bolt. Firstly use tape to hold it in position and check several locations for the
best position. When checking for balance, tap the stand to vibrate the bearings to help
the propeller turn.
 Once the propeller is properly balanced, assembled and mounted, check to see that the
spinner is nicely aligned with the engine cowls. The profile created by the cowls and the
spinner, as seen from the side of the aircraft, should be continuous. There should be no
step between the cowl and spinner profiles. If there is, this could have a negative impact
on the aircraft's aerodynamic properties.

Fitting the nose wheel

 Slide the nose wheel into it's support brace and bolt it into place at the three designated
places. Fit the metal tab to the rear of the nose wheel leg and bolt in place.
 Place velcro around the tab area and the bottom of the landing gear leg and place the leg
cover into place on the leg. Use a marker to mark the position of the velcro in the leg
cover and attach the Velcro. Carefully position the cover to the leg and, when happy,
push down on the velcro to seat the landing gear leg.
 Then fit the sealing strip to the back of the gear leg, it will go on easy except where it has
to go over the tab. Here you will need to tap it lightly with a hammer to get it to sit
properly. Be sure to have the landing leg cover in the correct position because if it is
offset it will act like a big trim tab and yaw the aircraft.
 Make sure to install the joining (trim) strip on the rear of the landing gear leg cover

Wing preparation
Placing the counterbalances:
 Measure and mark the points on the flaps where the center of each counterbalance
should be, according to the diagram provided in Appendix 12.
 When fitting the metal counterbalances they must be fixed to the flap using epoxy and
rivets. The surface of the flap and the metal must be cleaned and roughed up to ensure a
good bond. Lastly, the rivet comes from the plastic side and the end is in the metal
 Be sure to hold the metal in place with vice grips until riveted. Use a 4 mm drill and
rivets which are 4mm by 13mm.


Drilling the necessary holes:
 Drill two 5 mm holes in both ends of the brake slot base for drainage. Clean up the wing
surface afterwards and place red sticker.
 Do the same for the two drainage holes located near the base of both wings. These
locations of these holes should already be marked. Note that the positions are different
on each wing because of the main wing spar positions.
 Then mark and drill holes for the door pins and open them out to 8mm. Remove the paint
from the wings around the door latch position. Be very careful because the wing surface
is very thin. Roughen the door pins to allow good adhesion of epoxy.

 On the bottom side of the right wing you'll find a small indent in the surface which
indicates the location for the pitot tubes.
 Dremel a slot to fit the base of the pitot tubes and check it for good fit. Then, lining up
the base with the leading edge of the wing at 90 degrees, mark the hole positions and
drill 2.5 mm holes and then open them up to 5 mm.
 Find the pitot and static lines inside the wing and, using a small wire with a hook, pull
them through the hole to the surface.
 Insert 4 nutserts into place and hold them with epoxy. Open up the tie down holes to
accept the plastic covers if required.
 Lastly, find the indent in wing between the airbrakes and the wingtip. Drill a 11mm hole
for the tie-down ring. Clean up hole and fit with the stopper provided. Place tape over
the stopper afterwards to prevent dust from getting inside.


Preparing the wingtips for strobe fitting:
 Cut the wing tips if strobes are to be fitted. First, locate the strobe cables. If no strobe
wires are there, locate the tunnel and run the wires through the wing.
Setting up the airbrakes:
The steps involved in mounting the airbrakes are fairly deruddered and require certain tools. Be
sure to follow the following steps slowly and carefully.
 First mount the air brakes stops. Use blue Loctite.

 Then place a 4mm spacer between the cam and the airbrake stop. Temporarily fix it into
place using a set of clamps as shown below.

 Now we need to cut the push rod because it is too long. Place the ball-end in the flap slot
and temporarily fix it between the forks of the pivot rod. Then lay the pivot rod down
and assure that ball-end is facing the wing root and not the wing tip.
 Now place the push rod so that it rests on top of the ball-end and lift the pivot rod, along
with everything else, towards the wing slot. The key is to lift the pivot rod until it's upper
edge is 16 mm below the wing surface. This is difficult to “eyeball”, so it is suggested
you make a similar tool as shown in the photos below, which can be aligned with the wing
surface and pivot rod's upper edge. A diagram of Pipistrel's tool is in Appendix 13.
 Once this is accomplished, mark the push rod where it meets the end of the ball-end.
Then release the pivot rod and raise the push rod so that it's end is sticking out of the
airbrake slot and prop it up with something. The push rod can now be cut where marked.

 Now it is necessary to drill 4 holes in the push rod. These holes should have a diameter
of 4mm and be aligned nicely with the holes in the ball-end. Make the special tool shown
in the drawing found in Appendix 14. It will help you with drilling the holes in the proper
places. Place the tool over the end of the push rod and proceed with drilling the holes.

 Now you can fit the ball-end into the push rood and fix them with rivets. The rivets are
4mm by 7.5 mm long.
 Afterwards fix the ball-end to the pivot rod's forks.

 Next you need pull the pivot rod up and determine where the bolt, which connects the
airbrakes to the pivot rod, will travel through the slot and past the wing surface. Once
this point is located, use the dremel to make a little clearance on both sides of the
airbrake slot, so that the airbrakes will not make any contact with the wings when being
extended and retracted.
 Now fit the actual airbrake. Fix them with bolts only for the time being.
 Retract the brake slowly into the wing and determine how much each airbrake needs to
be cut (they come a little longer than necessary). Mark the airbrakes, remove them and
cut them appropriately. Mark the sides of the cover and using a large sanding block sand
down the top of the airbrake until it fits.

 Now you need to adjust the airbrakes, so that exactly 0.8 kilogram meters of torque is
required to open or close them. This is done with a torque wrench and special fitting (the
fitting does not come with the kit, but can easily made - see picture below). Open the
airbrakes using the torque wrench and determine how many kilograms of force is needed.
Then reach into the airbrake slot and adjust the ball-end by screwing it or unscrewing it
(one rotation at a time) until the desired opening and closing force is achieved.
Drilling the holes for the fuel level gauge:

 Cut out the template provided (Appendix 15) and align it nicely with the wing profile and
placement peg found at the wing root.
 Then mark the center point of the holes needed for the fuel level guage.
 Drill a 2 mm hole first and be sure to use a vacuum cleaner because you don't want any
debris to get into the fuel tank. Then sand the area for epoxy.
 Now drill out the holes to 5.5 mm and countersink the holes to accept the fuel fittings.
Mix up some epoxy and glue the fuel fittings in place. Hold in place with some strong
tape and leave them overnight. Wipe off any extra epoxy before it goes hard.

Continue with wing setup:
 Heat up and fit the fuel guage tube. Secure it with cable ties at both ends to stop leaks.
 Then fit a plugged line over the breather outlet and create a vacuum in the tank using a
pressure gauge. Allow it to sit for 4 hours and make sure there are no leaks in the fuel
tank before it’s filled with fuel.

 To find the fuel tank cap locations look for a small indent in the wing and use the Dremel
to grind it out. Make sure to use the paper fitting and not the metal fittings on the
Dremel. Only go about 3 mm down or you may damage the thread of the cap fitting.
 Open up the hole to meet the edge of the cap fitting and always use a vacuum to keep
dust from going into the tank. When finished fit the cap and the breather fitting, use
epoxy on the breather fitting and rotate the end to be at 90 degrees to the leading edge
and with the vent holes to the rear.

 Grind out the end flap hole with a Dremel. This is used to secure the whole flaperon to
the aircraft. Also open up the other holes on the rest of the wing a few mm on the bottom
side only to allow for more flap movement in the downward position.

 Place the fitting closest the fuselage, which locks the flaps in place, on the aircraft.
 Turn the wing upside down and place the flaperon nicely onto the pins in the back of the
wing. This step can sometimes take a little work, because all the pin locations need to be
aligned.
 We now need to check the angles of the flaps with the template. The 28 degrees up and
33 degrees down. If the flap doesn’t go the proper distance give the flap a good hit and
mark the surface, this way you can see which position is hitting, all you need to do is
grind it out

 Also check the trailing edge of the wing for interference. On our wings, we typically sand
off about 2mm from the trailing edge on the lower surface near the wing root, however
this is not always necessary. Use your own judgement.


Assembling the airbrakes
The airbrake assembly has two main components: the airbrake and the airbrake top.
 First give the holes in the airbrakes a very light file to remove the paint.
 Then take the airbrake tops and use a tap to clean the epoxy out of the threads. Clean
around the base of the bolt with a knife to remove the extra epoxy.
 Now thread the supplied brass spacers onto the bolts in the airbrake tops. The threaded
part of the spacer should be aligned with the top of the bolt and the unthreaded part
against the plastic. Tighten them slightly with pliers, but do not overtighten the spacers
or else they will break off.
 There is a slightly shorter bolt at one end, which lines up with the lower side of the
airbrake. There must be free movement of the brake on the spacers. Place the springs
over the spacers and be sure that the short one goes on the short bolt. There are special
washers that go on top which have a larger area to hold the spring in place. Use the
4mm nuts and blue Loctite 243 to secure them into place. Tighten the nuts until they stop
on the spacers; do not overtighten as you may strip the bolt from the plastic.
 Place the two long spacers on the second pin from the left and the second pin from the
right. Be sure to secure them with Loctite and tighten them with pliers.
 Now place the angle brackets over the spacers and be sure they slide reasonably well.
Position them about 5 mm from the base of the spacer as shown in the photo. Drill two
3.5mm holes and secure the bracket with rivets (those which have a larger head). Mark
the nuts with red paint.


Fitting the wing connection plate:
 The first step is to drill the holes in the wing root. Use the templates found in Appendix
16 and 17. You'll find one for the left wing and one for the right wing. The templates
need to be lined up with the wing's spar and upper edge.
 Mark and drill 3mm holes and then tap them out to 4mm.

 Then fit the fuel hoses internally to the wing. The left wing has two fuel lines; one for the
drain or supply line and the other for the bypass or return line back from the engine. The
right wing has only one fuel line. The tubes should be around 300 mm long.
 Heat the tube and slide it onto the fuel pipe outlets securing them with three cable ties
pulled tightly.
 Cut the strobe wires off with about 100 mm protruding from the end of the wing
 Put together the end plates using the fittings and the foam spacer. Hold the spacer in
position with hot glue to make positioning easier later in the assembly. Attach the fuel
lines, strobes etc and finally fix it to the aircraft with 5 mm screws.
 On the right wing there is only one fuel line and perhaps the strobe, but it also has the
pitot and static pressure lines as well. Pull the lines out of the wing opening and cut them
off at about 80 mm. If you leave them too long they will wear or interfere with the
airbrake controls.
 You will receive the flaps a little longer than they need to be and sometimes it is
necessary to Dremel a little off the wing end as shown in the photograph. To get the
correct position it is necessary to have the pin and the mounting pin secure and hard up
at the wing root like in the photos. The other end will require the wing being cut to have
a clearance of 3 mm.

Determining the flaperon's moment:
 Measuring the turn moment of the flaperon is done by setting it up on a special stand and
measuring the mass. The stand should hold the flaperon level and allow it to rotate on its
hinges freely.
 First place the flaperon on the stand, level it and place a scale under the end which is
closest to the fuselage. Our factory made flaperons typically have a reading of
approximately 600 – 700 grams. If you don't get this reading add or remove
counterbalances accordingly.
 Now assemble the flaperon to the wing using a decent amount of grease on the pins. Be
sure to use a magnet to get the washer and nut onto the end securing pin. Then tighten

them up and secure with blue Loctite 243. When getting the nut tension correct, tighten it
up fully then back it off 1 full turn to allow free and unobstructed movement.

Taping over the gap between the flaperon and thee wing:
 Clean the wing with thinners before applying tape to the upper surface of the wing.
 The tape is applied in three layers. First the base adhesive is applied, pulling firmly but
not stretching the tape. It is applied with 1mm clearance to the trailing edge of the wing.
 Now apply the actual wing tape. It should be positioned evenly on both sides of the joint,
so it ends up leaving approx 2 mm of the first tape exposed. This is done for a couple of
reasons, but the main reason is for aerodynamics. The two layers of tape are stepped so
there is a gradual climb to the tape rather than a large step which can affect the
aerodynamics.
 Clean the tape again with thinner before applying the top layer to remove dust and oils
from your skin. These types of contaminants will affect the adhesion of the tape. Apply
the top tape again, pulling firmly but not stretching the tape. It is applied about half / half
over the other strip of tape. Repeat these steps for the other wing.


 Now just clean up the trailing edge of the flaperons as they often have a lip along the
rear edge. Use an electric tool first and finally a wooden sanding block about 1 meter long
to get a smooth and perfectly straight finish.
Mounting the wings
Once the wings have been completely prepared, you can begin mounting them on to the
fuselage. You will definitely need at one more person to help you with this step.
 First you need to ground down the adhesive rim that exists between the upper surface of
the wing spar and the wing's upper surface. Continue grinding until the wings spar and
upper surface form a right angle (see pictures below). NOTE: it is VERY important that
you DO NOT grind into the surface of the wing or into the actual wing spar. Focus on
grinding the adhesive rim ONLY.

 Now lift the wing up and align the wing spar with the fuselage. Slide the wing spar into
the rectangular hole and be careful not to damage the fuselage while doing so. Once the
wing root gets close to the fuselage, line up the wings support pegs with the
corresponding holes. If the wings support pegs do not fit nicely into their corresponding
holes then you may need to open them up a little using a dremel (see photo below). Be
sure not to open them up too much. Also check the wing spar hole in the fuselage. If
needed, you can grind it down a bit to make for a better fit.
 Slide the wing forward until it rests nicely against the fuselage and then rest the end on a
work stand
 Do the same with the other wing and ensure that left wing spar is placed in front of the
right wing spar, thus closer to the engine. When both wings are mounted and resting on
stands you can fix in place with the two pins provided. You may need someone to slightly
nudge the wings up or down in order for the pin to slide through both holes.
 After the wings have been mounted it is necessary to examine the fit. This is done by
checking the gap between the wing root and the fuselage. The gap should be somewhere
between 2 and 3 mm all the way around the wing. It is very unlikely that you will
achieve this gap after mounting the wings for the first time.

 Using a felt pen, outline the desired length to make grinding easier. Then remove the
wings and use a sanding block to grind down the wing root's edge.
 Continue grinding and remounting the wings until a gap of 2 to 3 mm exists between
each wing and the fuselage.
 Then take a feeler gauge and measure the gap that exists beetween the roof's frame and
each wing spar. Write these two measurements down on paper.
 Take the two inserts, which are used to fix the roof's frame to the wing spars, and
shorten their heads slightly on the lathe to match the measurements you wrote down
before. Then mount them into the roof's frame. Once mounted, the inserts should rest
nicely against the surface of the wing spars.

 Now place a 10 mm drill piece in the roof's frame and through the mounted insert, so
that it rests against the left wing spar. Drill a hole through the wing spar, trying to keep
the drill as steady as possible. Do the same for the right wing spar, again using the roof's
frame and the other mounted insert as guides.

 Now use the long bolt, two washers and nut provided to fix the the roof's frame and wing
spars together. Apply red Loctite 262.
 Assemble the airbrake cockpit lever. The hole positions at the both ends of the lever are
very important, so be sure to do this step carefully

 Now it is time to level and adjust the flaperons. Put the flap handle to the 0o setting and
fix the control sticks in neutral (centered up and down). Then adjust the flaps so that the
flap end closest to the fuselage aligns nicely with the rim on the fuselage (see pictures
below). This is done by screwing and unscrewing the uniballs found at the end of the
vertical flaperon push rods.
 Place levels on the flaperons and check to see that the flap handle accurately controls the
flaperons movement (-5o, 0o, +9o and +18o)

 Now you have to check and adjust the movement of the flaperons in relation to the
control stick drive. By shortening and lengthening the control stick stops (shown in the
picture above), you have to adjust the movement of the flaperons so that each flap
extends 20o upwards and 13o downwards in relation to the wing surface.
Fitting the Wheel Spats

Preparing the spats for fitting is very easy. It is important that, when they are fitted to the
aircraft, they should not touch the landing gear leg otherwise they will wear the paint off the legs
and the wheel spat. Furthermore they should be angled correctly
 Positioning is important because the wrong spat angle looks bad. Place the spat over the
wheel and, using a rubber hammer, gently bend the aluminum mounting plate so that it's
angle matches that of the wheel spat.
 Now loosely fit the bolt on the outer side of the wheel and pivot the spat up and down
until the correct angle is found. This is done by measuring the rear tip of the spat to the
ground. For the Sinus this should measure about 130 mm, and for the Virus
approximately 200 to 220 mm.
 Then, after positioning the spat centrally and rechecking the angle, tape the spat into
position with heavy tape. check the spat is centrally positioned on each side of the

landing gear leg and that the top of the cutout in the spat does not touch the landing
gear leg.

 Now that the spat is temporarily fixed in the right position, you can start drilling the
holes. To find the correct hole positions we can use the mounting plate holes as a guide.
Draw a line directly through both upper mounting plate holes and extend it 10mm past
the edge of the spat. From this point measure 10mm down and mark with a pen. Repeat
now using the lower mounting plate holes as a guide and measure 10mm up instead of
down.
 Once the holes are marked drill them with a 2mm drill piece.
 Remove the tape and the spat. Using a 7mm drill piece you can open up the holes in the
aluminum mounting plate, being careful not to drill to far and hit the brakes.
 Inset 4 nutserts into the holes. Run a 5mm tap through the nutsert to clean up the
thread.
 Open up the remaining holes in the spat to 5.5 mm and mount the spat with the provided
bolts from the outside in.
 REMEMBER:mounting hole location is not as important as the angle at which the spat is
mounted and/or considerable clearance between the spat and the undercarriage leg.

Fitting the nose wheel spat

 Drill two holes in the back of the nose wheel spat to stop the build-up of mud and debris
on the plane
 Fit the aluminum bracket into the nose wheel spat and position it by eye to determine
best fit.
 When happy, drill one hole only and recheck the alignment.
 Now you can drill the remaining holes. The spat fits between the base of the landing leg
and the bracket which supports the tire
 Use blue Loctite 243 on the nuts. Insert the nose wheel and the main wheel axle. Cover
the head of the bolt and the nut with the plastic covers provided for aesthetics.

Fitting the luggage rack and headrests

There are two types of luggage racks that come with Pipistrel aircraft; soft and hard. The soft
luggage rack is basically a pouch, that gets strung up between the seats and the first bulkhead.
The hard luggage rack comes in the form of box, that gets built into the area between the seats
and the first bulkhead.
Mounting the soft luggage rack:
 Cut holes in the fuselage bulkhead structure for the soft luggage rack. Two holes should
be cut on the right side of the bulkhead and two holes on the left. There is a different
position for the luggage rack if the aircraft is fitted with a chute so please lay the luggage
rack if purchased inside the compartment for determining the best positions for the holes.
 Once the seats have been installed, you will be able to attach the luggage pouch to the
back of them.
Mounting the hard luggage rack:
The hard luggage rack is basically a collection of plastic sheets that, when fitted into the fuselage
behind the cabin using Velcro, creates a storage space for luggage. You have received 5 plastic
components and some Velcro patches with your kit. Mounting the hard luggage rack is very
straightforward.
 Begin by placing the C-shaped piece, which protects the main elevator control rod, in the
fuselage behind the cabin. Determine where you need to put two strips of Velcro and fix
the C-shaped piece to the floor of the fuselage. The top of this piece should also be
covered in Velcro

 Now temporarily place the three flat pieces (luggage rack floor and back wall) into the
fuselage and determine where you need place Velcro strips. Place the strips and install
the flat components.
 The last piece is also C-shaped. It gets placed over the flaperon pushrods which run
vertically between the seats, just behind the cabin. Determine where to place Velcro
strips and then fit the component.

Preparing the fuselage for the headrests and windscreen:
 The holes for the headrests should be already cut. If not, they will definitely be marked,
so cut the holes for the headrest with a Dremel.
 Cut the hole for the windscreen support in the front of the fuselage. Pay particular
attention to the fact that the material is only 3mm thin and if you cut to close to the edge
damage will result. The hole comes already market on the fuselage.

Mounting the Autopilot System

The autopilot system, which came with your kit or which you're planning to mount into your
already-built aircraft, consists of one or more servomotors, the autopilot avionics
instrumentation and a set of connection cables:
Besides these you also get certain push rods (depending on which flight movements you are
intending to control with the system), a modified bell crank and a modified lateral assembly rod.
NOTE: The autopilot instrumentation comes already built into your instrumentation panel.
Mounting the Pitch Servomotor
The pitch servomotor controls the aircraft's pitch movement and is located under the cabin floor
between the main control sticks. Before installing it, you have to equip it with a few mounting
plates.

• First mount the stopping plate using the two screws and spring washers provided. This
plate has two tabs which restrict the push rod to a certain degree of movement. Be sure
to mount it using the middle hole (3rd) on both sides.
• Now mount the the L-profile mounting brace using the two bolts and washers provided.
Be sure to place the washers under the brace. It will then sit on top of the stopping plate
as well. Apply Loctite 243.
• Now fit the 130 mm push rod with two rod ends and two nuts. Mount it to the
servomotor's arm using the three washers, nut and bolt provided. The two thicker
washers are to be placed on either side of the rod end, while the thinner washer gets
placed between the servomotor's arm and the bolt head.
• Drill three Ø5 mm holes in the belly of the fuselage. These holes will allow you to fix the
servomotor to the fuselage under the cabin floor. The position of the servomotor,
however, is critical. Two of the three hole locations can be seen in the diagram below.
They are to be measured from the fuselage's front rim (just behind and below the motor)
and from it's center axis. Use a string, if need be, to make a visual reference for the
central axis. The diagram shows the front end of the Sinus seen from UNDERNEATH the
fuselage.

63.6 mm 51.8 mm
8.1 mm
8.3 mm
• The lateral assembly push rod, which connects the two control sticks, is altered to
accomodate the autopilot. It has an arm that connects to the other end of the
servomotor's push rod. In order to ensure that this arm moves freely, you have to cut
away a bit of composite material from the support leg that stands between the cabin floor
and the fuselage. See the photos below to get an idea of how this is done.

 Setting up the wiring is quite simple. Arrange the bundle of wires so that the autopilot
connector is the vacinity of the instrument panel and the two smaller servomotor
connectors are under the cabin floor. Start by feeding both servomotor connectors
through one of the two instrument wiring holes in the cabin floor, just in front of the
choke control.
 Feed the roll servomotor connector the orange wiring tube towards the back of the
fuselage, while leaving the pitch servomotor connector under the cabin floor. Leave the
main autopilot connector near the instrument panel.

 Hook the pitch connector to the pitch servomotor and slide the unit under the cabin floor
through the control stick hole. Temporarily fix it to the fuselage floor.
 Connect the other end of the pitch servomotor push rod to the lateral assembly push rod
arm using the three washers, bolt and nut provided. The two thicker washers are to be
placed on either side of the rod end, while the thinner washer gets placed between the
arm and the bolt head. Make sure the push rod is placed above the spring, which is
connected to the adjustable pedals.
 Check the push rod's movement and confirm that it is unhindered.
 Determine how long the push rod needs to be. This can be done by adjusting the nuts at
each end. Adjust them, so that when the lateral assembly push rod is in it's extreme
right or left position, the servomotor's arm does not touch either of the blocking tabs.
 Once you're convinced that the servomotor and lateral assembly pushrod interact as they
should and movement between the two is completely unhindered, fix the servomotor to

the fuselage floor and apply Loctite 243. Orient the bolts so that their heads are outside
the fuselage.
 Mark all permanent fixations with red paint.
Mounting the Roll Servomotor
The roll servomotor, once activated, controls the aircraft's roll movements. The servomotor's
position is very important, and thus it's mounting L-profile brace comes already mounted on the
parachute storage container as shown in the photo below.
 Begin by preparing the servomotor's mounting brace. You need to clip the two little tabs
off as seen in the photos below. This can be done by placing a ruler up against the
movement restricting tabs, drawing a line across the two tabs and then cutting them off.

 Mount the brace using the two screws and spring washers provided. Be sure to mount it
using the middle hole (3rd) on both sides.
 Prepare the 275 mm push rod with a rod end and washer at each end.
• Now mount it to the servomotor's arm using the three washers, nut and bolt provided.
The two thicker washers are to be placed on either side of the rod end, while the thinner
washer gets placed between the servomotor's arm and the bolt head.

 Hook up the pitch connector to the pitch servomotor and mount it onto the mounting
bracket using the bolts and washers provided.
 Now let's look at the bell crank. It comes altered with an additional arm. Temporarily fix
the other end of the servomotor's push rod to the upper hole in the bell crank's arm,
using the three washers, nut and bolt provided. See photo for correct placement order
 Determine how long the push rod needs to be. This can be done by adjusting the nuts at
each end. Adjust them, so that when the bell crank is in it's extreme right or left
position, the servomotor's arm does not touch either of the blocking tabs.
 When this completed apply Loctite 243 to the bolt, which holds the push rod to the bell
crank arm. Mark all permanent fixations with red paint.

Automatic Nose Wheel and Rudder Centering Systems
Although the original Sinus and Virus aircraft were not equipped with automatic nose wheel and
rudder centering systems, all newly-produced Sinus and Virus aircraft are and existing aircraft
can be equipped with them upon owner request.
For kit owners, the following picture shows you what the automatic nose wheel and rudder
centering systems look like:
Mounting the automatic nose wheel-centering system:
The first step is to remove the nose wheel and disconnect its cables at the point where they
meet the balancing bracket, just on the outer side of the firewall. Then remove the front two
screws, which hold the sides of the black plastic covering in place.

• Now remove the bolt, which fixes the cable to the spring cylinder. Mount the spring
provided and fix it using the provided bolt, washer and nut. Apply blue Loctite 243 to the
nuts threads.
• Equip the other nose wheel cable with a spring as well.
• Make sure the loop at the end of the spring is turned the right way, so that the spring
moves freely and unhindered. Also ensure that the spring is mounted on the correct side,
relative to the cable. Both springs, when mounted, should lie between the cables (see
photos below).
• The systems base foundation should be placed approximately 40 mm inwards towards the
engine from the end of the black plastic covering. If you have not yet installed the plastic
covering, you can place the systems base foundation approximately 80 mm from the hole
in the cockpit's floor for electric cables (as shown in the photo below).
• When you've found the right position, mark it and the holes with a pen.
• Clean the surface of the cockpit's floor. Use a knife to scrape away any silicon if need be.


 Drill the holes using a 6.5 mm drill bit and clean up the mess afterwards with a vacuum.
 Assemble the foundation with the nuts and ring bolts provided. This requires temporarily
unscrewing the control stick drives L-profile fixation bracket, so that you can fit the ring
bolts with the appropriate nut from under the cockpits floor
 Maker sure the foundation sits nicely on the cockpit floor. If need be, open up the holes a
little with a dremel to ensure the bolts can be screwed and unscrewed easily.

 Now reconnect the left nose wheel cable to the balancing bracket and its corresponding
spring to the ring bolt. You might need an extra hand to help connect the other nose
wheel cable. It involves pushing the already installed spring while pulling the new one
and slipping a bolt into the balancing bracket.

 Now remount the nose wheel and check its alignment. Adjust the ring bolts you installed
earlier so that the nose wheel always centers itself once the pedals are released.
Mounting the automatic rudder-centering system:
 Each spring runs from the balancing bracket to the rudders lower post
 Mount the springs. Use blue Loctite 243 on the all of nuts and mark them with red paint.

The last step involves connecting the servomotors to the autopilot. This is done easily by
connecting the main grey connector to the autopilot avionics instrument. The wiring you
received also comes with three other connectors: CWS, GPS and ARINC A/B. For help with these
and/or any other autopilot wiring issues, please refer to the TRUTRAK installation manual
provided with your kit.
That’s it…. We have completed building our aircraft. I am sure there is still lots to do and then
the enjoyment of test flying the aircraft. Be sure to stay in touch and we would love to get some
photographs of the plane when you’re finished and airborne.
Regards, Michael Coates

Pipistrel-USA and the Pipistrel Team.

















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Kit Manual for Pipistrel Sinus and Virus Aircraft

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What do you need?......................................................................................................................................4

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Time to build..... Lets start !!

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What do you need?

Vapor mask Tape measure

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Preparing the Fuselage

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Preparing the undercarriage

Drilling the main axle hole:

Placement of the main axle and endplates:

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Now we have to to drill the holes for the brake pins.

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Placement of the brake assembly:

Brake assembly WITH washer

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 Place wheel on the axle

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Fitting the undercarriage to the aircraft

Setup for aircraft without a nose wheel

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Mounting the engine to the firewall

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Sound dampening material

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Painting the fuselage interior (part 1)

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General touch ups and painting the fuselage interior (Part 2)

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Fitting the cockpit carpet

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Cutting the slots for the fuel gauge

Fitting the throttle assembly and the flap handle

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Fitting the ballistic chute (part 1)

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Fitting the ballistic chute (part 2)

Mounting the rocket assembly: