BUENOS AIRES

Recoleta Cemetery

endless mile
2 BUENOS AIRES

Walk this way

The itinerary on the following pages highlights
70 tombs & mausoleums in Recoleta Cemetery.
Stroll past Presidents & politicians (some naughty,
some nice), Nobel Prize winners, literary greats,
entertainers, scientists, military leaders, sports
figures & even some who died tragically. The
walking route also passes many interesting
mausoleums not specificially listed. Feel free to
explore beyond the marked route —wandering is
encouraged. Something fascinating exists around
every corner, & there is only one way in & out of the
walled perimeter.

To minimize confusion, this walk has been divided

into easy-to-navigate sections of about 10 tombs
each. Section maps accompany tomb descriptions,
eliminating extra scrolling, & additional directions
are provided where necessary. The master map on
pages 4 & 5 can be used for general reference or to
get back on track if you wander far.

Descriptions for each listing are concise but should

spark interest to learn more about Argentina’s
past & present. This tour also explains many
details about Buenos Aires & offers suggestions
to explore the city. If you’re curious, additional
information for all tombs mentioned here can be
found online at recoletacemetery.com. Thanks for
supporting the Endless Mile series of guidebooks
& enjoy the walk!
 Recoleta Cemetery 3

Recoleta Cemetery

Plaza
de Mayo

official limits
of Recoleta
neighborhood

Basics
Recoleta Cemetery is open 365 days per year from
07:00 to 18:00 but may only be visited from 09:00
to 17:00. Admission costs 5,090 pesos for non-
residents. Tickets are available online in advance &
may be used at any time for the day of purchase.
Best times to visit are early morning to avoid large
tour groups or late afternoon when sunset casts a
nice glow over the cemetery. Avoid visiting during
heavy rain due to lack of shelter, & especially avoid
midday summer sun for the same reason.

This walk consists of level, paved terrain & should

take approximately two hours. Photo buffs will
need more time. Topics include art & architecture,
a bit of history, often-told tales & of course the
cemetery’s most famous resident. Eva María
Duarte de Perón —simply Evita to her devotées—
had a bizarre post-mortem journey which is
described at length.

To put the cemetery into its proper context, read

the Introduction at the intersection of Quintana
& Ortiz near the giant ombú tree. Continue to the
church, then walk left to the entrance gate.
4 BUENOS AIRES

MAP E MA

43 42

41

35
44 40
36
45 39 3

37
46
38

47

48
32
49

50

3
pez
te Ló

MAP F
Vicen

Uri 51
bur
u

52 30 29

Recoleta
Mall
53
027

54

55
57 56

58
59

60
61

Junín

MAP G MAP
 Recoleta Cemetery 5

MAP D MAP C MAP B

Pu Av
ey en

id o
rr ida
ed

Gu
ón
Azcu
énag
35 a
40
36
39 34 33 23
22
21
19
37
38
17
20 18 16

32

Buenos Aires Design • Hard Rock Café

24

25

31

15

26
27 14
28
13
30 29

12
11
027

10
09
66 67 68
08
65 69

63 07
64
62

Iglesia
de
70 Pilar
ˆ
06
02
01 03

05
04

MAP H MAP A
6 BUENOS AIRES
 Recoleta Cemetery 7

El Convento de la Santa Recolección,

early 1700’s. Painting by unknown artist.

Introduction
Recoleta Cemetery ranks as one of the top attractions in Buenos Aires with
good reason. Its list of occupants reads like a Who’s Who of Argentine history
& society. The elite, aspiring middle class, friends, enemies, & those who
contributed to the general welfare of Argentina all share space in a miniature
city of mausoleums & monuments.

Even basic facts impress. Founded over 200 years ago, Recoleta Cemetery
occupies an area of 55,000 m2 or the equivalent of about four city blocks.
To date there have been more than 350,000 people buried in an estimated
4,700 tombs & niches. On average, 75% are currently in use & well-maintained
with many hopefuls waiting for a vacancy. Since the majority of plots are
family owned, sales occur infrequently. Prices vary based on location but can
range anywhere from USD $30,000 to USD $500,000.

Centuries of urban development have erased most clues as to how this area
appeared to the early residents of Buenos Aires. Far from the city center —
about 17 blocks diagonally from Plaza de Mayo— the future site of Recoleta
Cemetery was riverbank property ‡ Although difficult to envision today,
notice how streets gradually slope down & follow what was once the original
landscape. Another remnant of the past are gigantic ombú trees, some
about 150 years old, which are usually found along a river’s edge. Trees may
be rooted in place, but the river has been pushed far away... out to the 1930’s
power plant visible in the distance.

The former seclusion of this spot appealed to a branch of Franciscan monks

from Spain to use for religious activities. Given permission to build El Convento
de la Santa Recolección in 1705, they were called Recoletos after the convent
& their primary activity: meditation (think of the word “recollect”). They
managed to live here in relative tranquility for a little over one hundred years.
8 BUENOS AIRES

Recoleta Cemetery, circa 1867.

Image taken by Benito Panunzi,
Carlos Sánchez Idiart Collection.
 Recoleta Cemetery 9

Fast-forward to Buenos Aires in the early 1800’s

just after independence from Spain. 55,000
inhabitants lived in a small town without paved
streets, green areas or basic public services.
The city needed change. Copying European
trends in sanitation, Governor Martín Rodríguez
prohibited the practice of burials either inside or
next to Catholic churches. His solution was this
public cemetery —the first ever in Buenos Aires.
Explusion of religious orders during the same
period made large tracts of land available to the
city for development.

The Cementerio del Norte (Northern Cemetery)

opened in 1822 on the grounds of the former
monastery, still well outside city limits. After the
Recoletos left, their residential complex served
multiple uses (it’s now a cultural center), the Iglesia
de Pilar remained untouched, & their vegetable
garden/fruit orchard transformed into a cozy spot
to rest in peace.

The early appearance of Recoleta Cemetery was

quite different from today with only a simple
entrance & a whitewashed, adobe outer wall. As
the cemetery grew in status, its layout changed
from grassy plots with simple tombstones to one
of ornate mausoleums & vaults. Leftover from early
days, a number of modest tombstones still dot the
grounds. Mainly Irish Catholic in origin, keep an
eye open for English language engravings now
tucked in between large family vaults. A major
renovation in 1881 gave the cemetery its current
look by adding a grand entrance gate, a brick wall
around the entire perimeter, paved walkways, & a
more orderly layout.
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Operation
With burial on church grounds prohibited by city ordinance,
prominent local families brought the church to the cemetery.
Elaborate mausoleums aim to replicate churches in miniature.
The most common design for vaults is simple: a crucifix placed
above a small altar with recently deceased family members
in caskets just beneath. The majority of tombs also have
underground storage; look for a descending staircase or a metal
grate in the floor. Extra space below ground means theoretically
a family can use their tomb forever. Over time, older remains are
transferred to smaller boxes & placed downstairs, making space
always available above ground.

Families pay a monthly maintenance fee for upkeep, &

caretakers work in sectors to clean vaults, water plants, &
perform general repairs. If a family fails to pay the monthly fee,
regular maintenance stops & their tomb decays over time. This
could happen for many possible reasons: maybe there are no
family members living in Buenos Aires, perhaps the family now
uses another cemetery, or maybe no descendants are left at all.
Whatever the reason, many structures slowly crumble away &
the city government has no recourse. The simple fact that no
one can disturb the dead without family permission is why the
cemetery’s beauty has remained intact for over 200 years.

Expressions of remembrance take the form of metal plaques,

usually given by loved ones on the first anniversary of death.
Besides adding a personal touch to the cemetery, they can also
reveal something about the deceased: a plane crash depicts an
unfortunate accident, a teacher is missed by her students, or
fellow Rotary Club members pay their respects. Masonic symbols,
such as pyramid shapes & the trying square, are scattered
throughout the cemetery. Offended by the burial of a Freemason
in 1863, Catholic priests relinquished care of the grounds to city
officials. Practitioners of any religion may now be buried here;
however, it remains a predominantly Catholic cemetery.

Forty-five years passed before another public cemetery opened

in Buenos Aires, the Cementerio del Sur (Southern Cemetery).
 Recoleta Cemetery 11

Norte, 1822

Chacarita, 1871

Sur, 1867

Original city limits

Located in front of the infectious disease hospital, it quickly filled

with victims of various epidemics, especially the 1871 yellow
fever outbreak. An estimated 14,000 people —almost 10% of
the population of Buenos Aires— died within four months. To
handle such large numbers of burials, the 70-block Cementerio
de la Chacarita was opened that same year. Recoleta Cemetery
prohibited the burial of epidemic victims, so it did not fill to
capacity & close during that time.

Surrounded by a brick wall, an interesting phenomenon

developed in this cemetery with no room to expand —the resale
of tombs. If a family decides to use another cemetery, they can
transfer caskets & personal effects to the new location & sell their
former mausoleum to someone else... just like any piece of real
estate. Given high construction costs, new owners usually opt to
renovate the existing tomb & overlay their family name instead
of building an entirely new structure. Look for name plates made
of a different material than the tomb itself or appear to be bolted
over original text.

Declared a National Heritage site in 1946, its official name

changed to Cementerio de la Recoleta in honor of its origins as a
convent. Economic & political problems over the next fifty years
took a heavy toll on family fortunes & their ability to maintain
elaborate vaults. With the return of tourism to Buenos Aires after
the 2001 economic crisis, the cemetery has seen a revival. In
2003 new sidewalk tiles were installed & the entrance gate was
repaired in 2010. Government funds & private donations continue
to restore previously neglected vaults to this day.
12 BUENOS AIRES

Symbolism

When city mayor Torcuato de Alvear began an extensive urban makeover

of Buenos Aires in 1881, Recoleta Cemetery also got a new look. Random
tombstones located along dirt paths gave way to orderly sectors & paved
walkways. Juan Antonio Buschiazzo designed an elegant main entrance,
incorporating the original structure while adding Doric columns.

Listed as a National Historic Monument in 2007, “rest in peace” in Latin tops

the gate & leaves little doubt as to what’s inside. Another Latin phrase can
be found on the interior, visible when exiting. Taken from Philippians 3:20,
Expecatamus Dominum roughly translates to “We await the Lord.”

Symbols related to Christianity & death decorate both sides of the entrance
gate. The scissors & knife likely refer to The Fates: three sisters who controlled
each person’s destiny, represented by a single thread. When that thread was
cut, life is over. Other symbols, in no particular order, are found on the gate &
on mausoleums scattered throughout Recoleta Cemetery:
 Recoleta Cemetery 13

Winged hourglass
An hourglass often symbolizes passage of limited or finite
time. Wings are a common Christian image associated
with angels & serve a dual purpose: they depict your
destiny after the sands of time run out & reinforce the idea
that time is fleeting. This symbol also provides a subtle
reminder for the living to make the most of every moment.

Inverted torches
In religious art, life is often represented as a flame —a
source of illumination & warmth. But all flames eventually
burn out. A lack of oxygen extinguishes the flame of an
inverted torch, so this represents an extinguished life.

XP
Christ in the Greek language is “Christos” (Χριστος) & the
first two letters, chi & rho, form a common Christian symbol.

Ouroborus
Derived from Greek for “tail eater,” this ancient image
of a serpent devouring itself implies a continuous cycle
of renewal. Death, therefore, is not an end but a new
beginning. The serpent is often accompanied by a sphere
or other circular form to reinforce the idea of eternity.
14 BUENOS AIRES

Draped urn
Vaults are designed to be used by families over many
generations. As time passes, the deceased can be
transferred to smaller containers such as urns in order to
make room for new arrivals. There is no need to keep an
entire casket when only ashes remain... especially when
space is at a premium. As many caskets are traditionally
draped with a cloth or shroud, so are urns.

Up & away
Most religious figures look toward the sky or point upward
to signify the general direction the deceased have taken.
Hopefully.

Owl
When appearing in cemeteries, owls signify watchfulness
& solitary contemplation. As a night creature, the owl’s
behavior implies vigilance during a family’s darkest hour.
Most depictions in Recoleta Cemetery are rather cartoonish
with exaggerated eyes & are not anatomically correct... just
like the image at left, found on the entrance gate.

Moth
Wrapped inside its cocoon, a caterpillar appears lifeless.
But after metamorphosis, it transforms into a winged
creature attracted to light. The natural life cycle of a moth
is an appropriate allegory for a loved one who has passed
away... transformed & moving toward the light.
 Recoleta Cemetery 15

Truncated column
Classic to funerary architecture, truncated columns
symbolize a life cut short or incomplete. Not only used for
young family members who have passed away, the broken
column can be found on tombs whose occupants left any
task unfinished.

Anchor
The anchor is one of the oldest Christian symbols known
to historians. In constant use until the year 400 A.D.,
the image is taken from Hebrews 6:19-20 where hope is
described as “an anchor of the soul, sure & firm.” Just as an
anchor maintains a ship steady, the Christian faith claims
to do the same for the soul. A revival of this symbol began
in the 1600’s worldwide.

Masonic Order
A compass & trying square surrounding the letter “G”
denote this secret society. As a Catholic country, outright
displays of Freemasonry are rare in spite of the order’s G
popularity. Resist the urge to see Masonic symbolism in
everything… Catholics often use the very same images.

Star
A floating halo is technically impossible to reproduce in
sculpture, so statues of angels commonly have a single
star placed above their forehead. The star provides a good
substitute & brings a bit of the heavens down to earth.
16 BUENOS AIRES

Overview
The main gate is the only way in or out of Recoleta Cemetery.
Remember that its grounds occupy the equivalent of about four
city blocks, so you can’t wander too far. The master map on pages
4 & 5 shows the cemetery’s general layout as well as the overall
walk but is intended for reference only.

The suggested walking route has been divided into sections

marked A through H in this guide, & each section begins with a
photo page to show some of the highlights. While not all listed
tombs are pictured, most have photos for ease of identification. A
detailed section map follows each photo page, so you’ll scroll a bit
less on your phone or tablet during the visit.
 Recoleta Cemetery 17

03 10

01 09 08

MAP A
06 05
18 BUENOS AIRES

MAP A
10
09

08

07

06
02
01 03

05
04

‡
Begin after crossing the entrance gate.

01 · General Juan Facundo Quiroga

Charismatic caudillo of La Rioja province who was ambushed &
murdered in the 1820’s, Quiroga later became the subject of a
book debating Argentine progress. For author & later President
Domingo Sarmiento 57, Quiroga embodied the gaucho
stereotype: uncontrollable, savage, & uncivilized. The crypt has
a remarkable Italian statue of Mary with delicate lacework, so
admired that it was copied... look up & right to the next row over.

02 · Luz María García Velloso

Girl who died at the age of 15 in 1925. Her father was a noted
theater critic & performer, hence the large number of poetic
plaques on the left side of the mausoleum.
 Recoleta Cemetery 19

03 · Francisca Olivera de Pignetto

Sculptor Luis Perlotti’s most beautiful work in the cemetery, he
also designed a large number of statues & dedication plaques.
Francisca’s tombstone dates from 1946, & the fading relief of her
father is strikingly emotive.

MAP A
04 · General design
Pick any tomb nearby & peek inside to see the standard layout of
vaults: mini-altars, caskets & stairs leading to storage below.

05 · Ossorio Arana
Pause to read Part 1 of Eva Perón’s bizarre post-mortem journey.

“...If you fear the risks of Liberty, If you find safety in the
obedience that despots impose... Do not stand before the
tomb of this soldier!”
—1968 eulogy by Pedro Aramburu

Completely out of proportion with its surroundings, this statue

demands attention. A female figure, sword in hand, represents
a military version of Argentina. Behind her on the right, an
engraving of balanced scales symbolizes Justice. Surely Ossorio
Arana dispensed a bit of military justice in his lifetime; however,
many would disagree since he concealed the corpse of Eva Perón.

Most people know Eva died of uterine cancer when she was only
33 years old. The year was 1952, & her last public appearance was
a celebration for her husband’s re-election as President. The
official wake lasted for several days as thousands of Argentines
filed past her casket to pay their final respects. To ensure Eva
would be remembered for eternity, her body was put on public
display inside the CGT union headquarters (Azopardo 802, photo
above). Embalming Eva Perón —slowly replacing bodily fluids
with glycerine to produce a waxy, perfectly preserved cadaver—
immortalized her as a hero of the working class forever.
20 BUENOS AIRES

MAP A
By 1955, three years after Eva’s death, conflict over Perón’s leadership put the
Catholic Church & certain sectors of the armed forces against him. A military
coup forced Perón to flee in exile, & he eventually settled in Franco’s Spain
after brief stays in Paraguay & Venezuela. Military rulers wanted to eliminate
all traces of Perón & start with a clean slate... easier to do since Juan was
out of the country. But the body of Eva remained such a powerful symbol
that it was considered dangerous to have on public display. The military
feared her presence might rekindle the Peronist sentiment they struggled
to erase. A group of soldiers entered the CGT, took Eva’s casket at gunpoint
& an undercover operation kept the body hidden from the world for 17 years.

Arturo Ossorio Arana came into the picture when he was given custody
of Eva’s embalmed body. He held it in a Secret Service office not far from
Recoleta Cemetery for several months (now a repurposed building at the
corner of Callao & Viamonte). Arana eventually transferred Eva to others for
safekeeping, & she moved all over Buenos Aires. A series of military officers
kept the body in their homes for varying lengths of time. The last officer
to have custody of Eva slept with a gun underneath his pillow, afraid that
someone would enter & find the casket. One night, his pregnant wife came
home late & he got scared... scared enough that he shot & killed her by
mistake.

At that point, the military decided that Eva could not remain in Argentina.
She was sent by boat to the Vatican, but the Pope had no obligation to assist
either Eva or the military regime. Arrangements were made to have her
buried in a Milan cemetery under the false name Maria Maggi de Magistris
where she remained until 1971.

This saga continues at the crypt of Pedro Aramburu 28, the de facto military
President during all this confusion. He ordered the theft of Eva, but he also
played an important role in the return of her body to Argentina. Aramburu’s
eulogy for Arana can be seen on the left side of this tomb, praising his anti-
Perón actions. The engraved date is not when Arana died but rather the day
of the coup which ousted Perón, beginning in the city of Córdoba. Also note
that there is no door for the vault & what was once a side window has been
cemented shut. The family must have been afraid that Perón loyalists would
desecrate Arana’s body in retribution for his treatment of Eva... less bizarre
than you might think. Just wait until Part 2!
 Recoleta Cemetery 21

MAP A
06 · Cenotafio de los Tres Amigos
This cenotaph —an honorary monument with no buried
remains— honors three good friends who died within a year
of each other: journalist Benigno Lugones (with a newspaper),
writer Alberto Viola (with books), & poet Adolfo Mitre (with a lyre).

07 · Arata
Conservative chemist Pedro made life better in Buenos Aires by
improving city sanitation. Arata also incorporated the School of
Agriculture & Veterinary Science into the University of Buenos
Aires & donated his immense library. He is remembered with an
incomplete pyramid —a symbol of tasks left unfinished just like
the truncated column.

08 · Dorrego Ortiz-Basualdo
Intermarried, wealthy landowners built one of the largest
mausoleums in the cemetery. The sculpture depicts the Parable
of the Ten Virgins as told in Matthew 25: ten women waited
for the arrival a bridegroom to celebrate his marriage. He was
delayed & half the women’s lamps ran out of oil. Those five left to
search for more oil, but the others had brought extra... note the
large jar to the left of the lamp. When the groom finally arrived,
he excluded the five who had not come prepared. The story is a
roundabout way of saying that Christ’s second coming will likely
be delayed, & the faithful must always be ready. Don’t miss the
luxurious interior, worthy of any church in town.

09 · Atilio Massone
10 · Familias González y Kordich
A pair of massive vaults with Art Deco reliefs full of emotion &
allegory. Find representations of old age, silence, infinity, &
resurrection.
22 BUENOS AIRES

MAP B

15

13 11 18
 Recoleta Cemetery 23

17
18 16

MAP B
15

turn: Cossio Scarella

14

13
turn: Familia Portos Reboredo

12
11

11 · Dr. Raúl Ricardo Alfonsín

Born in 1929, Alfonsín risked his life to investigate cases of
desaparecidos during the last military dictatorship. He later
became the first President after democracy was restored
in 1983, taking the military junta to Supreme Court & trying
them individually for human rights abuses. Remembered as a
studious politician who valued democratic process —something
remarkable in Argentine politics— his March 2009 death caused
a massive show of gratitude from the general public. See the
AfterLife blog for many photos of the funeral procession.

12 · Francisca Lemoine de Salinas

Detour for some often overlooked, gigantic Art Nouveau irises.
24 BUENOS AIRES

MAP B
13 · Juan Bautista Alberdi
Lawyer who penned the first draft of the Argentine constitution
in 1852. Ironically, Alberdi spent several years away from Argentina
due to political disagreements & died in France. He was buried
here until 1991, when Alberdi’s remains were returned to his
native province of Tucumán.

14 · Ortiz de Rosas
Either loved or hated —no middle ground allowed— Juan Manuel
de Rosas based his political power on a large cattle fortune & a
private army. Recently independent from Spain, Argentina had
yet to decide on a form of national government. Rosas took over
as a firm Federalist (all provinces semi-autonomous) while half
of the country wanted to be Unitarian (Buenos Aires in complete
control). Granted unlimited power by the upper class, Rosas
persecuted his enemies, defended Argentina from a British-
French naval blockade & after 20 years was ousted & exiled to
England. Buried in Southampton Cemetery, Rosas only returned
in 1989 —proof of how controversial he remains. The portrait
inside is also on older versions of the 20 peso bill.

15 · Marco Avellaneda
Poignant Art Nouveau crypt for a Senator. Don’t miss the owls
keeping watch from behind.
 Recoleta Cemetery 25

MAP B
16 · Adolfo Alsina
Vice-President under Sarmiento 57 then Minister of War for
Avellaneda 49, Alsina built 109 lookout points —all connected by
telegraph to major forts— in what was once indigenous territory.
Those mini-outposts became fundamental in the success of the
1879 Conquest of the Desert: 14,000 indigenous people taken
prisoner & 4,000 killed. That campaign effectively eliminated all
native resistance. Note who flees on the upper left relief panel &
who calmly takes control on the right.

17 · General Juan Lavalle

Respected military leader who participated in every early
national conflict. He even shot a childhood friend/political rival
hoping to end civil war... it didn’t. Lavalle died under mysterious
circumstances on the run from Rosas 14, & his remains were kept
in Bolivia until they could be repatriated here. A small plaque
orders the soldier to guard Lavalle’s sleep & in case he wakes up,
let him know that his country loves him.

18 · Familia del Carril

Controversial politician who encouraged Lavalle 17 to shoot his
childhood friend, Del Carril is also famous for enraging his wife. In
spite of a large, land-based fortune, the expenditures of Tiburcia
were even larger. Del Carril published a letter in local newspapers
telling creditors he would not be responsible for his wife’s
debts. Ouch. So when Tiburcia had this mausoleum built, she
supposedly requested to face away from her husband forever.
She doesn’t seem too thrilled at her final triumph though.
26 BUENOS AIRES

MAP C
19 20 21

25

22 23 27
 Recoleta Cemetery 27

23
22
21
19

20

MAP C
24

25

turn: Ginocchio

26
27
28

19 · BH (Massimiliano Bencich)
As half of the Bencich Hermanos construction company,
Massimiliano helped add beauty to Buenos Aires. Architectural
highlights include giant domes on Diagonal Norte, the current
Sofitel in Retiro & a fantastic apartment building on the 800 block
of Avenida Córdoba. Don’t miss this tomb’s luxurious interior.

20 · José Pérez Mendoza

Narrow pyramid for the founder of the Animal Protection Society.
Perhaps inspired by Freemason ideals, the design more likely
derives from Egyptian influences in Art Deco. As of 1902, the
organization began to care for abandoned & overworked animals.
Their original building still stands... & is still in use today.
28 BUENOS AIRES

21 · Caídos de la Revolución de 1890

Built to honor victims who died during a civil conflict, this crypt
continues to house members of a political party born from that
struggle. Even Alfonsín 11 laid at rest here until his own tomb
could be completed. For the full story, pause here...

MAP C
UCR

Beginning in 1880 during the term of President Nicolás

Avellaneda 49, Buenos Aires expanded from 286,000 inhabitants
to 2.5 million over the next 50 years. As the population soared,
so did national debt. Arrival of a large workforce helped the
economy expand at first, but infrastructure demands led
to an economic & social crisis. In 1889 debt doubled from
two years earlier, salaries dropped, unemployment grew &
strikes were commonplace. President Miguel Juárez Celman
(brother-in-law of former President Julio Argentino Roca 29)
made matters worse by continuing decades of electoral fraud.
Concentrating power in his own hands, the public referred to his
term as an unicato —a one-man rule.

Dramatic times called for dramatic measures. A new political

party, the Unión Cívica, gave many Argentines hope for change.
At first repressed by the national government, by April 1890 the
UC gained the support of established leaders like Bartolomé
Mitre 59 & Leandro Alem (buried here) as well as the nascent
middle class. Its formation marked the first mass political act in
Argentine history. Their main goal was to defeat Juárez Celman’s
party in upcoming elections... but at the same time, preparations
were taking place for a coup d’etat.
 Recoleta Cemetery 29

Leading the UC party, Alem conspired with an influential general, Manuel J.

Campos 45, for crucial military support against Juárez Celman. Plans were
set, but the July 21st revolution was aborted at the last minute by the surprise
arrest of key figures involved… someone had leaked information about the
coup to government officials. General Campos was taken under custody &
received communication while in prison from ex-President Roca, reluctant
to surrender his own political influence. More sneaky plans were underway.

MAP C
From his cell, Campos sent word to Alem to go ahead with their plans &
fighting broke out early on 26 July 1890. Government forces used Retiro as
their base of operations while Alem’s men were concentrated in Plaza Lavalle,
now home of the Supreme Court (commonly referred to as Tribunales).

As civilians rose up in arms to oust Juárez Celman, battles took place in the
heart of Buenos Aires. Fighting continued sporadically for the next few days.
General Campos made obvious military mistakes & gave the government
ample time to recover & fight back. Alem noted these irregularities at the time
but given the difficult situation, deferred to the general’s orders. Violence
ended four days later with a truce. Estimates of those killed or wounded
range from 300 to over 1,000. While the revolution was not successful in
overthrowing the government, the political landscape quickly changed
afterwards.

Juárez Celman lost support due to the conflict & resigned, handing the
government to Vice-President Carlos Pellegrini 27. Although no historical
record of conversations between Campos & Roca exists, it is taken for
fact that Campos made bad tactical decisions on purpose. He threw the
revolution so Roca & his elite allies could remain in power. The UC also had
difficult times afterwards & split into two groups. One year later the Alem
faction transformed into the UCR, Unión Cívica Radical. The UCR still plays an
important role in politics an alternative to the Peronist party.

Subplots & internal division aside, strong civilian support of the attempted
revolution marked the beginning of civil society in Argentina & the birth of a
radical political party. Every major figure on both sides of the 1890 Revolution
can be found sharing space somewhere in Recoleta Cemetery.
30 BUENOS AIRES

22 · Toríbio de Ayerza
Parisian-trained Basque doctor who brought the trachaeotomy
to Argentina in 1845­—fundamental in helping stabilize children
with diphtheria. Toribio also helped found the most important
Basque organization in the country, Laurak Bat, with a good
restaurant (Avenida Belgrano 1144).

23 · Luis Ángel Firpo

The lifesize replica of this 6.5’, 220 lb. guy by Luis Perlotti 03 is
definitely not in his bathrobe. Known as “The Wild Bull of the

MAP C
Pampas,” Firpo was Argentina’s first world heavyweight boxer.
During a 1923 NYC fight, Jack Dempsey pummeled Firpo early
in the match. But Firpo later managed to knock Dempsey
completely out of the ring. Although he ultimately lost —
reporters helped push Dempsey back into the ring— Firpo’s
record of 32 wins out of 38 title matches demonstrates he was
a worthy opponent. Compare your hands to his & be the judge.

24 · Emma Nicolay de Caprile

An American schoolteacher of Polish descent, de Caprile came to
Argentina by request of President Sarmiento 57 in 1870 to help
establish U.S. teaching norms throughout the nation.

25 · Name missing
A gigantic Neo-Byzantine mosaic of Christ looms over equally
enormous statues, formerly of the Defferrari family.

26 · Gral. Enrique Mosconi

Military engineer initially involved with aviation but after the
1907 discovery of oil in Patagonia, Mosconi became head of the
national petroleum company (YPF, Yacimientos Petrolíferos
Fiscales). He defended Argentine deposits from large trusts like
Standard Oil & Royal Dutch-Shell.

27 · Carlos Pellegrini
Key player in the 1890 Revolution 21 & ally of Roca 29, President
Pellegrini also founded the Jockey Club & the Banco de la Nación.
He later broke away from Roca’s influence & is remembered for
encouraging industrial progress & electoral reform.
 Recoleta Cemetery 31

28 · Pedro Aramburu

You’ve made it to Evita, Part 2! Remember from Ossorio Arana's

tomb 05 that Pedro Aramburu became the de facto President
after ousting Perón & ruled from 1955 to 1958. Democracy returned
after Aramburu left office, but the political & economic situation
in Argentina was a disaster in the 1960’s. Periods of military rule
alternated with democratically elected leaders like a revolving
door. Aramburu even ran unsuccessfully for President again in
1963... but fate had something else planned for him.

An organization known as the Montoneros formed in the late

1960’s as a Catholic, pro-Perón paramilitary group. A roughly-

MAP C
P drawn logo left no doubt as to their methods or who they
supported Perón backed their terrorist actions, at least while
he remained in Spain. He later distanced himself from the group
because they were too leftist even for his taste. The military
dictatorship of 1976 put a violent end to Montonero activities, but
they had already left a permanent mark on Argentine history.

In their very first public act —the Montonero debut on the

political scene— they kidnapped Aramburu from his Recoleta
apartment (Montevideo 1053, original building demolished with
a modern supermarket built in its place). Disguised as fellow
military personnel & claiming the need to take him to a safe
haven, in reality they questioned him about the location of Eva’s
remains & held him responsible for anti-Perón actions while in
office. Aramburu revealed nothing about Eva & paid a heavy
price. He was shot & left dead in a field in 1970, then buried here
in Recoleta Cemetery. Perón rejoiced because he was convinced
that Aramburu was behind every attempt on his life while living
in Spain. Although untrue, Perón considered Aramburu’s death a
personal victory, & the political situation took yet another strange
turn.

The following year, Eva’s body would be delivered to Perón by

the very same military men who overthrew him. Possibly in an
attempt to further his own career, General Lanusse ordered the
retrieval of Eva’s corpse from the Milan cemetery where she’d
been hidden. An Argentine officer entered as Maria Maggi’s
alleged brother to claim the casket. After cleaning the body to
make it presentable, Eva was taken by motorcade to Madrid &
32 BUENOS AIRES

presented to Perón. She was missing one finger & had some nose damage
but otherwise remained in fairly good condition.

Eva’s macabre adventure unfortunately did not end in Madrid. Perón was
re-elected President in 1973 & his third wife, Isabel, ran on the ticket as Vice-
President. When Perón returned to Argentina to assume office, he decided
to leave Eva’s body in Spain. His own return caused enough chaos, & bringing
Eva back at the same time would have been disastrous. In another odd twist
of fate, Perón served little of his third term as President; he died of natural
causes about nine months after taking office. As Vice-President, Isabel
assumed control of Argentina in 1974.

Not an experienced politician, Isabel was easily manipulated by her advisors.

Also being the first woman president in Latin America could not have been

MAP C
easy in the 1970’s. The Montoneros presented an unresolved issue to Isabel:
they wanted Eva back in Argentina. To make sure their demands were heard,
they broke into Recoleta Cemetery, torched through the bronze doors of this
crypt & stole Aramburu’s casket.

Tomb of Pedro Aramburu, 2004. Note the

broken hinge on the lower right door. Repaired
in later years, no evidence of graverobbing
exists today.

Isabel acquiesced & arranged for Eva to be brought back to Buenos Aires. Her
body was not put on public display as in the past but heavily guarded inside
the Presidential residence alongside the body of Perón. Aramburu returned
to Recoleta Cemetery after being discovered in an abandoned truck nearby,
& this crypt was then filled with concrete to prevent any possible desecration
in the future.

The important thing to keep in mind is that although Aramburu ordered the
theft of Eva’s embalmed corpse, it was the theft of his own body that brought
her back to Argentina. Apparently what goes around, comes around.
 Recoleta Cemetery 33

29 34
30
35
32 36 31

MAP D
34 BUENOS AIRES

35

36
34 33

turn: Guaita

32
turn: Marcos Paz (ivy)

MAP D
31

30 29

29 · Julio Argentino Roca

Roca organized the 1879 Conquest of the Desert 16 then used
military accomplishments to launch a political career. Two-time
President, he lessened control of the Catholic Church by making
education secular & legalized civil unions. Roca also conspired
to stay in power during the 1890 Revolution. With his portrait
on older versions of the 100 peso bill, Argentines had a daily
reminder of Roca’s legacy... for better or worse.

30 · Familia Roverano
Missing an arm today, this immigrant’s Italian origins are obvious
from his peasant dress. As he steps onto dry land, the boat’s name
 Recoleta Cemetery 35

reaffirms his decision to immigrate: AYUDATE (“help yourself”).

The Roveranos came from Genoa & made a fortune competing
with Café Tortoni. Moving the family plot to Chacarita Cemetery
in 1919, this crypt has been vacant since then.

31 · Familia Federico R. Leloir

Winner of the 1970 Nobel Prize for Medicine + Art Nouveau
mosaics everywhere. Peer inside to see the richly decorated
interior. Luis Federico discovered how nucleotide sugars join to
form glycogen, storing energy for the body to use later.

32 · Familia de Luis Dorrego Indart

Victim of the first body theft in this cemetery, the casket of the
deceased mother of the family was held for ransom in 1881. Police
gambled that a heavy coffin couldn’t be taken far & sure enough,
they found Mom stuffed in someone else’s vault nearby. The
perpetrators were caught but not jailed since corpse theft was
not yet on the books. It is now. Just as interesting, an angel carries
a soul to heaven while stomping on a pitchfork-wielding demon

MAP D
—a sculpture copied from Père-Lechaise Cemetery in Paris.

33 · Rufino de Elizalde
Minister of Foreign Relations under Mitre 59 in the 1860’s, Elizalde
thought Argentina had better ties with Europe than their Latin
American neighbors... influencing President Avellaneda 49 to
encourage European immigration two decades later.

34 · Ángela G. Menéndez
Director of the 1895 Women’s School #2 & the best place to learn
foreign languages in Buenos Aires. The original building of the
Instituto Nacional de Lenguas Vivas at Esmeralda 285 is still a
school. Latin text translates to “Thy will be done.”

35 · Manuel Quintana
A lifelong, upper-class statesman, Quintana became President in
1904. An uprising the following year got his term off to a shaky
start & Quintana, already in his 70’s, became noticeably affected.
A later assassination attempt by anarchists proved too stressful &
he resigned, passing away soon after in 1906.

36 · Familia Manuel Cerini

1926 Art Deco sculpture by Troiano Troiani, an equally popular
contemporary of Perlotti 03 with many works in Buenos Aires.
36 BUENOS AIRES

37 38 41

40 43

MAP E
44 45 46
 Recoleta Cemetery 37

43 42

41

44 40

45 39

37
46
38

37 · Sassone
Italian-born Antonio Sassone produced dozens of sculptures &
paintings in Argentina before passing away in 1983. A haunting
copy of “El Mensaje” tops his crypt & won top honors in the 1958
national salon. Other works are in the Teatro Colón & in public

MAP E
parks in Buenos Aires.

38 · Juan Alleno
David (look inside) was a caretaker of Recoleta Cemetery who
obviously never wanted to leave. The tools of his trade remain in
use today: lots of keys, a watering can & a broom. Urban legend
claims that when this sculpture arrived from Italy, David was so
eager to join it in the tomb that he committed suicide. His death
certificate states trauma & cerebral contusion as the cause, but
facts are extremely difficult to verify.

39 · Sebastián Perelli
41 · Cisnetto Olivera
Stand back for perspective. Two gigantic statues smelted by José
J.M. García —the first in supersized Art Nouveau & the other with
a guardian angel no one wants to disturb.

40 · Pedro Benoit
Accomplished architect rumored to be Louis XVIII, heir to the
French throne. Pause to read this often-told tale.
38 BUENOS AIRES

As one of the most important architects in Argentine history, Benoit is not

recognized for a particular style or one specific building but for designing a
entire city. Given the opportunity of a lifetime, Benoit won the commission to
build the capital of the Province of Buenos Aires.

When Buenos Aires became the national capital in 1880 & a separate
federal unit (much like Washington, DC), it had to relinquish control over an
enormous area of land in exchange. This new administrative division, named
the Provincia de Buenos Aires, needed a new city to run its affairs away from
the national capital. In 1882 the foundation stone was laid 30 km (17 mi)
southeast of Buenos Aires, & La Plata quickly grew to become a beautiful
city. Benoit designed its regular grid plan criss-crossed by diagonals as well
as most of La Plata’s government buildings & major churches.

Buenos Aires ß
Þ
La Plata

Provincia de Buenos Aires. Total

MAP E
area equivalent to that of Arizona.

Obvious Masonic symbols under his bust & a plaque from the Comisión Pro-
Templo in Mar del Plata leave little doubt as to his social network. In this case,
symbols of Benoit’s profession combine well with Masonic ones.

But if Benoit’s accomplishments were not enough, his father claimed to be

the Dauphin —the last Bourbon king of France. After the French Revolution,
rumors began to circulate that Louis XVII (son of Louis XVI & Marie Antoinette)
had been secretly removed from prison at a young age & replaced by a sick
boy who later died. By way of Haiti, Louis XVII arrived in Buenos Aires under
the pseudonym Pierre Benoit in 1818. Maybe.

Maintaining his supposed royal past a secret, Benoit served in the Argentine
Navy, married & had two sons… one of them named after him, Pedro Benoit.
In old age, Pedro’s father received a childhood friend from France bearing a
private message. Afterwards, Benoit was noticeably shaken and his health
took a turn for the worse. No one knows what transpired between the two,
but Pierre Benoit died within 24 hours. On his deathbed, he confessed to
 Recoleta Cemetery 39

be Louis XVII. That would make the architect son, Pedro, French
royalty. Maybe.

Only recently has the fate of Louis XVII has been uncovered. “The
Lost King of France” by Deborah Cadbury (2002) chronicles the
French Revolution & closely examines events afterwards. During
the autopsy of that sick boy who died in jail, a doctor with royal
sympathies removed & kept the heart. Surprisingly not lost over
the centuries, the heart’s DNA proved to be of the same lineage
as Marie Antoinette… confirming that the boy who died under
horrible conditions in solitary confinement was indeed Louis XVII.
No substitution took place, & the Dauphin never escaped. But
the Benoit family & many other Argentines continue to believe
otherwise. Pedro Benoit is certainly a legend in his own right for
great urban planning… whether he was French royalty or not.

r
42 · Ramón Falcón
43 · Juan Alberto Lartigau
Appropriately buried alongside each other, Falcón & Lartigau
died in the same attack not far from Recoleta Cemetery. As police
chief, Falcón bore the unpopular responsibility of suppressing

MAP E
the 1909 May Day demonstrations. Russian anarchist Simon
Radowitzsky took note & targeted Falcón later that year. When
Radowitzsky threw a bomb from the intersection of Callao &
Quintana, Falcón & his aide Lartigau were fatally wounded.
Evocative statues representing struggle & surrender highlight
this corner of the cemetery.

In November 2018, a pair of anarchists entered the cemetery &

detonated one of five home-made pipe bombs with the intent to
destroy Falcón’s tomb. In the end, the tomb survived while one of
the perpetrators left in an ambulance with facial damage & lost
three fingers. Old grudges die hard.

44 · Baby Morra (name on side door)

Architect & Marquis, Italian-born Carlos Morra emigrated to
Argentina in 1881. Notable works in Buenos Aires are the former
National Library (México 560), the Escuela Roca (Plaza Lavalle,
alongside the Teatro Colón), & the colorful floor mosaics of the
cathedral (Plaza de Mayo). Baby refers to his daughter who was
buried here first.
40 BUENOS AIRES

45 · General Manuel J. Campos

Brother of Luis María Campos 48 who conspired with Roca 29
to throw the 1890 Revolution. Battle scenes, however, depict the
1864 war with Paraguay... coming up next.

46 · Guerreros del Paraguay

MAP E
In the 1860’s Uruguay sat on the brink of civil war. Neighbors Brazil
& Argentina loosely backed one side while Paraguay supported
the other. Paraguayan dictator Francisco Solano López asked
permission to cross Argentine territory with troops for his favored
faction in Uruguay. Naturally President Mitre 59 refused. López
crossed anyway, attacking Brazil & occupying part of Argentina.
With the largest army in Latin America, amounting from 30,000
to 80,000 troops, the operation was a piece of cake.

Uruguay, Argentina & Brazil —with only a few thousand men

each— joined forces to combat López & formed the Triple
Alliance. Note those three national flags. The violent, 5-year war
devasted Paraguay. They had more manpower but out-of-date
equipment & no supply chain. Historical figures vary wildly, but
most scholars agree that at least half of the population Paraguay
was killed & only one-tenth of the male population survived.
López & his followers were executed, & Paraguay surrendered half
of its territory; one part going to Brazil & the other to Argentina,
today known as the province of Formosa. This Art Nouveau tomb
was dedicated in 1913 for veterans of that horrible conflict.
 Recoleta Cemetery 41

52

47 48

49 50 51

MAP F
42 BUENOS AIRES

47

48

49

50

turn: Familia de Cadelago

51

52
tight squeeze!

53
54

MAP F
47 · Familia de Lucas González
In spite of a different last name, a President happens to be buried
here. Roque Sáenz Peña married into the González family, & all
the plaques which cover the rear brick wall belong to him. During
the 1890’s, both he & his father were manipulated by opposing
factions to run against each other for the presidency. Roque took
the high road, declined his own nomination, & let his dad win.
He would get another opportunity & Roque became President in
1910. In an attempt to end election fraud, Sáenz Peña guaranteed
universal male suffrage in 1912. He died in office two years later,
& the first President elected by popular vote took office in 1916.
Women were given voting rights 35 years later in 1947, thanks to
Eva Perón 54.
 Recoleta Cemetery 43

48 · Luis María Campos

Founder of the War College in 1900 & brother of Manuel J. Campos
45, General Luis María is portrayed in all his glory by French
sculptor Jules Félix Coutan. Even Argentina kneels at his feet.

49 · Nicolás Avellaneda
Successor to Sarmiento 57, President Avellaneda governed from
1874 to 1880. During that time, Buenos Aires gained status as
national capital, Patagonia became national territory thanks to
the Conquest of the Desert 16 & a law encouraging immigration
changed the country forever. Avellaneda died at sea while
returning from a trip to Europe in 1885.

50 · Francisco J. Muñiz
Army physician, natural historian, paleontologist (find the
dinosaur skeletons), smallpox vaccination pioneer, founder of the
National Museum of Natural Sciences (in Parque Centenario) &
colleague of Charles Darwin. Busy guy.

51 · Romulo Otamendi
Saved from the elements thanks to its interior location, a statue
of an angel carries a child to heaven on a cloud. That child’s casket
can be seen immediately below —a young victim of tuberculosis.

MAP F
Estela Matilde’s father worked for the Argentine government as
an engineer, laying out a large portion of the nation’s rail network
in the 1880’s.

52 · David Spinetto
An immigrant from Genoa, Spinetto opened the first wholesale
produce market in Buenos Aires & his son directed the Hospital
Italiano. A spectacular door shows St. George slaying a dragon,
imported from Milan & designed by another famous Italian
immigrant —Mario Palanti— best known for the Palacio Barolo
(Avenida de Mayo 1370).

53 · Ida
Reaching for a bouquet, Ida supposedly fell to her death from a
balcony... which makes this sculpture even more breathtaking.
44 BUENOS AIRES

54 · Familia Duarte
Finally at rest. Pause to read Part 3 before wading through the
masses to see Eva Duarte de Perón.

“Volveré y seré millones!”

When the most violent dictatorship in Argentine history began

in 1976 & removed Isabel Perón from power, the military returned
Eva’s body to her family. This location was donated space, the
previous tomb was demolished & a new one built. Eva finally rests
in peace deep underground (some 10 meters below) secured
by multiple sheets of stainless steel with combination locks.
Because the mausoleum is modern, the style is simple with little
ornamentation... quite unremarkable, in fact, for one of the most
recognized personalities in Argentina. Also buried here are Eva’s
mom & stepdad, her three sisters & her brother.

MAP F
The death of Eva’s brother is also shrouded in mystery. As personal
secretary to Perón, Juan Ramón Duarte has been characterized
as a womanizer who took advantage of his relationship to Eva
for personal gain. Shortly after Eva’s death Juan supposedly took
his own life, but many believe that Perón had him murdered &
framed Duarte’s death as suicide in order to hide evidence. The
truth may never be known.

Eva may be resting in peace at last, but Recoleta Cemetery is the

most inappropriate place she could possibly be. Surrounded by
upper-class Argentines who hated her (often refusing to speak
her name & only referring to Eva as ésa mujer or “that woman”),
even the people responsible for stealing her embalmed corpse
are only meters away. Peronistas obviously do not agree with her
current location.
 Recoleta Cemetery 45

The door of the tomb is usually covered with flowers. On special

days like Labor Day (May 01), Eva’s birthday (May 07) or the day
of her death (July 26), many people leave messages, wreaths &
other items to pay respect. One of the plaques states a phrase
never actually said by Eva & is often attributed to Spartacus after
leading a slave revolt against the Romans. For both, “I will return
& be millions” is appropriate... one person may die, but their
ideology can live on & eventually triumph.

So Eva finally rests here, Isabel is still alive (turning 93 in 2024,

living on the outskirts of Madrid), but where is Juan Perón?
During the 1976 dictatorship, Perón’s casket was moved to his
family’s plot in Chacarita Cemetery. And like Eva, he was not
allowed to rest in peace. In 1987, a small group broke into his
tomb & removed both of his hands with an electric saw. To this
day no one knows where they are or why the body was defaced.
Many theories exist; however, the most likely reason is a simple
one. Perón’s trademark gesture was holding both hands up to
salute crowds (similar to Mussolini), so whoever took Perón’s
hands also symbolically stole his power.

Stencil graffiti of Juan Domingo MAP F

Perón, 2004. Typical gesture used
by Perón when addressing crowds
in public.

Perón was moved in 2006 from Chacarita Cemetery to his

former country estate in San Vicente, about two hours south of
Buenos Aires. The Peronist Party —still a force in national politics
although split into several factions— built a monument to the
legacy of Perón & wanted his body there. They would also like to
move Eva by his side at some point in the future, so her travels
may not be over yet!
46 BUENOS AIRES

MAP G

55

57 58 59
56
 Recoleta Cemetery 47

55
57 56

58
59

60
61

55 · Rufina Cambacérès
Tragic death & urban legend are wrapped up in an evocative
statue depicting Rufina at the age of her death: 19 years old. Her
father, Eugenio, emigrated to Argentina from France & became
a recognized writer. Unfortunately he died during a visit to Paris
when Rufina was only four years old.

Jump ahead to Rufina’s 19th birthday in 1902. Her mother threw

MAP G

a big party, & afterwards everyone decided to catch a show at a

local theater. But while getting ready, Rufina suddenly collapsed
in her bedroom & doctors pronounced her mysteriously dead.

The following day she was buried in Recoleta Cemetery...

obviously not in this vault with her name because it had not been
built. The green & white family tomb is adjacent, just to the left. A
cemetery worker later reported that he found Rufina’s casket lid
pushed aside & damaged. Her mom feared the worse & thought
Rufina had been accidentally buried alive... deep in a cataleptic
coma & misdiagnosed by doctors. Another version claims that
48 BUENOS AIRES

Rufina escaped from her family tomb & arrived at the front gate…
only to collapse & die from a heart attack caused by fright.

What really happened? It seems impossible to find out 100

years later. Some claim that while preparing to go to the theater,
Rufina’s best friend let a secret escape that killed her: Rufina’s
boyfriend was also involved with her mother! Shocking. Casket
damage could be attributed to theft as well since Rufina would
have been buried with her finest jewelry.

Whichever version sounds more convincing, some parts of each

story may be true. Rufina’s hand on the door probably fueled the
rumor mill from the very beginning. Is she trying to escape an
awful fate or merely entering a different realm? Don’t miss the
mausoleum interior for more swirly, Art Nouveau decoration,
especially the marble casket & chandelier. The entire vault was
restored in 2008 so Rufina looks more beautiful than ever.

56 · Eduardo Orfali
Exquisite, interior marble sculpture of a woman & child at rest.
Note the embroidery of the mother’s evening gown, her slightly
fallen breasts & the meticulous mattress detail.

57 · Domingo Faustino Sarmiento

Born in 1811 while Argentina struggled for independence,
Sarmiento spent his early years buried in books. Due to civil war
& local caudillo Facundo Quiroga 01, Sarmiento fled in exile to
Chile in 1831 where he continued his studies. That fruitful period
MAP G

was spent between marriage, founding the Universidad de Chile,

running a newspaper, & being sent on behalf of the Chilean
government to the United States to study its primary education
system. He returned to Argentina 20 years later as an authority in
academia. While serving as ambassador to the U.S. under Mitre
59, Sarmiento was elected President. He is most remembered
for establishing free, public education by inviting U.S. teachers
like Emma Nicolay de Caprile 24 to Argentina. Sarmiento passed
away on 11 Sep 1888, now commemorated as Teachers’ Day.
The condor atop the obelisk is native to the Andes Mountains &
represents his strong connection to both Argentina & Chile.
 Recoleta Cemetery 49

58 · Liliana Crociati de Szaszak

A bit older than Rufina 55, with an equally tragic story. Members
of high society, Liliana Crociati & her husband, Jancsi Szaszak, took
a fateful ski vacation to Austria in 1970... only for a tremendous
avalanche to cover their hotel in Zürs am Arlberg. At least 16,000
tourists in the region were affected, & rescue workers struggled
to find as many people as possible. Liliana’s husband was rescued
15 minutes after the avalanche, but it took an hour to remove her
—completely covered by snow that had entered their hotel room
through a broken window. In critical condition & later declared
brain dead by doctors at an Innsbruck hospital, Liliana’s husband
had to make the difficult decision to remove life support.

The statue of Liliana always draws a crowd. Elongated &

hauntingly beautiful, sculptor Wilfredo Viladrich placed Liliana
in a bridal gown at the request of her parents. Inscribed on the
base is the name of her faithful dog, Sabú. He died years after
Liliana’s trip to Austria but since she loved Sabú so much, her
parents decided to place them together for eternity. In contrast
to other mausoleums in the cemetery, flowers & greenery are
often visible outside.

Through the glass door an oil painting can be seen of Liliana done
by one of her classmates in Fine Arts school. Her father, a famous
MAP G

hair stylist, wrote a verse in Italian placed beneath the statue &
laments the passing of his young, beautiful and only daughter…
“Why? Why? Why?”

One rarely mentioned part of her story is that she was first
buried in Chacarita Cemetery while this mausoleum was
under construction. For decades, many unanswered questions
surrounded the death of Liliana & led to the invention of urban
legends. But in 2021, Jancsi’s second wife talked to a national
newspaper to dispel rumors & tell the truth about Liliana’s life &
tragic death. Hopefully she can rest in peace at last.
50 BUENOS AIRES

59 · Bartolomé Mitre
Mitre grew up during the troubled, early years of national
organization & often switched sides. He eventually worked his
way into the presidency & declared war on Paraguay 46. In later
life, Mitre wrote historical biographies & founded La Nación
newspaper —still in print today. This 1938 Art Deco cenotaph
with images of Duty & Justice replaced the earlier family vault.
His remains are now in the same crypt as his son, Emilio, next to
Avellaneda 49. Mitre’s portrait can be found on older versions of
the two peso bill.

60 · Sepulcro Suárez
Coronel Isidoro Suárez fought for Argentine independence & later
opposed Rosas 14 but his grandson would ultimately become
more famous. As one of the great writers of the 20th century,
Jorge Luis Borges directed the National Library, became almost
completely blind, & died in Geneva in 1986 at the age of 86. He
had only lived in Switzerland for three months & is buried in
a local cemetery there. Borges was fond of the family tomb &
some politicians want to move him to Recoleta Cemetery, but his
widow has stated she will never allow it.

MAP G

Detour down a long row, just across from 60.

61 · Asociación Calpense de Socorros Mútuos

This often-missed castle & key are copied from the Gibraltar flag.
Buried inside are members of a self-help group for immigrants
from “the Rock.”
Recoleta Cemetery 51

69
MAP H

62 63 64

65 66
52 BUENOS AIRES

66 67 68

65 69

63
64
62

70
ˆ

62 · Etchebehere Vélaz
Sleek, streamlined Art Deco Christ surrounded by golden mosaics
for a wealthy cattle baron.

63 · Martín Rodríguez
1820’s Buenos Aires governor who founded Recoleta Cemetery.

64 · Familia José C. Paz

Owner of Argentina’s first major newspaper, La Prensa, with
arguably the best sculpture in the cemetery —a soul rushing out
of the coffin into an angel’s arms as a dove flies away.
MAP H

65 · Pablo Riccheri
Involved in the military since the age of 15, Riccheri brought
much-needed professionalism to the Army. Adopting European
methodology as Minister of War in the 1890’s, he founded training
camps & made conscription obligatory in 1901, effective until
1994. The sculpture is another by Luis Perlotti 03.
 Recoleta Cemetery 53

66 · Father Fahy
Arriving in Buenos Aires on his 39th birthday in 1844, Anthony Fahy
was appointed to the Chaplaincy of the Irish after serving a brief
mission in the U.S. He traveled throughout Argentina & became
known as a matchmaker, even bringing girls from his hometown
when there weren’t enough for Irish immigrants in Buenos Aires.
After several contributions to local society, Fahy died in the 1871
yellow fever epidemic. This Irish-inspired cenotaph pays tribute
to him, but Fahy is actually buried the Iglesia de Pilar next door.

67 · Padres del Libertador

& Remedios de Escalada
Libertador refers to founding father José de San Martín who
liberated the modern nations of Argentina, Chile & Perú from
Spanish control. By the time fighting was over in 1824, his wife
Remedios de Escalada had passed away from yellow fever. After
laying her to rest here, San Martín wisely chose to stay out of
politics & lived the rest of his life in Europe.

Dying in France & his remains later returned to Argentina, San

MAP H

Martín’s elaborate tomb can be found inside the cathedral on

Plaza de Mayo. His parents were buried alongside Remedios until
1998 when their remains were returned to Corrientes province.
Although the family is now separated, Remedios has one of the
oldest individual graves in the cemetery... placed just two years
after opening.
54 BUENOS AIRES

Parravicini’s psychographies,
1939. “The liberty of North
America will lose its light. Its
torch will no longer shine as
it once did & the monument
will be attacked two times.”

68 · Solari Parravicini
Reluctant psychic who drew sketches of his dreams, sometimes
accompanied with text. Parravicini foresaw cloning, the
development of the atomic bomb, the Cold War & even the 2001
attack on the World Trade Center in NYC... all in the 1930’s before
the towers were even built.

69 · Almirante Guillermo Brown

Trained in the U.S. & England, Brown & his wife arrived in
Argentina as it became a new nation. Commanding the Navy
over the next 35 years, he served his new home well by winning
battles against Brazil & breaking the 1841 British-French naval
blockade for Rosas 14. Brown died in 1857 at the age of 80 with
final rites performed by fellow Irishman, Anthony Fahy 66. His
ashes were later transferred to the bronze urn visible behind the
glass, forged from a cannon of one of his ships. The small box
behind Brown’s holds the remains of his daughter who tragically
MAP H

drowned in the Riachuelo River.

70 · Familia de Uribe y Lecea

Nothing is known about this family, but they have the distinction
of owning one of the few tombs with Jewish motifs. Stars of
David can be found above the columns.
 Recoleta Cemetery 55

Last word
A visit to Recoleta Cemetery should remind
everyone that the same fate awaits us all —
friends & enemies alike. Death will always be an
unavoidable equalizer. Hence, this cemetery also
provides an opportunity to reflect on our role in
society while still alive. Argentina’s own struggle,
with all its progress & setbacks, finds no better
visualization than Recoleta Cemetery. Legacies
left by major historical figures buried inside
provide valuable lessons for everyone, regardless
of nationality.

The denseness & interconnection of almost

200 years of Argentine history is sometimes
overwhelming, but few nations can claim the
privilege of having almost all its forefathers in a
single location... no larger than four city blocks.

And in spite of all the money spent to be

immortalized forever, it is difficult to ignore the
irony that so many prominent families have
fallen on hard times. Argentina today is not the
country those families envisioned, whatever their
personal ideology. Several of the same issues
they attempted to resolve continue to exist for a
different generation. Properly put into context,
Recoleta Cemetery should offer guidance & hope
for the future. What better place to be inspired
by beauty, honor past achievements & learn
from previous mistakes?
56 BUENOS AIRES

About the author

Raised in Memphis, Robert Wright moved to Seattle after university where
his southern accent almost disappeared. Almost. He worked as a toxicologist
thanks to studying biochem, did time at a container shipping company after
completing a Master’s in International Studies & later ditched everything to
move to Spain for a year. That turned out to be one of the best decisions he
ever made.

Enchanted by Europe, Robert has spent over 20 years as a tour guide &
guidebook writer for Rick Steves. Just as that job began, he moved to
Buenos Aires. Not one to sit idle, Robert began guiding visitors there as well &
trailblazed the way for other expats to do the same. Positive feedback inspired
him to self-publish those walks at Endless Mile plus share his knowledge of
European destinations. He settled again in Spain after 14 years in Argentina,
got married & wonders where the next adventure will take him...
 Recoleta Cemetery 57

Appendix

1810 1852
Struggle for independence Early Presidencies &
federalization of Buenos Aires

1816
New nation dealing with internal conflict,
war with neighbors & provincial strongmen

1828
Hardline rule by Rosas & conflict over
role of Buenos Aires in national politics

1810 1850
1822 1845 1864
Cementerio del Norte opened British-French naval blockade War of the
Triple Alliance

1825 1853 1869

War with Brazil First Constitution ratified La Prensa newspaper
first published

Specific dates can be difficult to put in perspective, so this timeline of

Argentina history should enhance your cemetery visit. Covering 200+ years,
broad periods are shaded above the line while specific events fall below.

1880
Immigration on massive scale while the elite maintain control

1916
Nascent democracy
under UCR party

1900
1878 1912
Conquista Universal male suffrage granted
del Desierto

1890 1923
Unsuccessful revolution by UCR Firpo-Dempsey fight
 58 BUENOS AIRES

1930 1955 1976

“Infamous Decade” of bad economics Revolución Libertadora Violent dictatorship
& electoral fraud; first military coup & desaparecidos

1943 1958
Industrialization & Elections & dictatorships
populism begin seesaw

1946 1972
Perón years Perón
back

1950
1936 1952 1970 1982
Saavedra Lamas Eva Leloir receives Nobel Prize Falklands War
receives Nobel Prize Perón
dies
1947 1974
Women gain right to vote Juan Perón dies

2020
COVID-19 pandemic

1983
Democracy restored

2001
Political & economic crisis

2010 2020
2022
Recoleta Cemetery
turns 200!

2010
Bicentennial celebrations
 Recoleta Cemetery 59

Selected bibliography
Archivo General de la Nación, photography archives.

Arias Incollá, María de las Nieves (2004). Restauración del patrimonio del
Cementerio de la Recoleta. Secretaría de Cultura: GCBA.

Bombal, Elba Villafañe (1978). Itinerario Histórico de Recoleta: Arte y Leyenda.

Cuadernos de Buenos Aires, #52. Instituto Histórico.

Braun, Mario (2001). Recoleta: Arte y Símbolos. Estudio Siena.

Caras y Caretas magazine. Accessed via the Hermeroteca Digital of

the Biblioteca Nacional de España http://www.bne.es/es/Catalogos/
HemerotecaDigital/

Cicciari, M. R., Huernos, M., Lasso, R. & Wainsztok, C. (1993). La muerte en el

imaginario social en Buenos Aires. Una Arquitectura para la Muerte. Sevilla:
Junta de Andalucía.

Clarín newspaper http://www.clarin.com

De Calderón, Elisa Casella, editora (1992). Buenos Aires nos cuenta, Nº 5,

Recoleta: Cofre de Historias. CPC Impresores.

De Luca, Rosa & Barsamian, Marcela, eds. (2008). Guía Patrimonio Cultural de
Buenos Aires, Vol. 1. Dirección General Patrimonio e Instituto Histórico.

Gente magazine. Accessed at Biblioteca Nacional in Buenos Aires.

Kaudi, Jorge (1956). Cementerio de la Recoleta: Guía de Visitantes. Typed

manuscript, Museo de Arte Popular-José Hernández in Buenos Aires.

La Nación newspaper http://www.lanacion.com.ar

Life magazine. Accesssed via Google Books.

Magaz, María del Carmen & Arévalo, Beatriz (1993). Arquitectura funeraria en
Buenos Aires: La Recoleta. Una Arquitectura para la Muerte. Sevilla: Junta de
Andalucía.

Maronese, Leticia, ed. (2005). Patrimonio cultural en cementerios y rituales

60 BUENOS AIRES

de la muerte, Vol. 1 & 2. Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires: Comisión para

la Preservación del Patrimonio Histórico Cultural de la Ciudad de Buenos
Aires.

Mato, Omar López (2004). Ciudad de Ángeles: Guía del Cementerio de la

Recoleta. Grijalbo, Editorial Sudamericana.

Patti, Beatriz & Poltarak, Sara (1993). Consolidación de los cementerios de la

ciudad de Buenos Aires. Una Arquitectura para la Muerte. Sevilla: Junta de
Andalucía.

Rock, David (1987). Argentina, 1516—1987: From Spanish Colonization to

Alphonsín. University of California Press.

Scobie, James R. (1971). Argentina: A City and A Nation, 2nd edition. New York:
Oxford University Press.

Scobie, James R. (1974). Buenos Aires: Plaza to Suburb, 1870—1910. New York:
Oxford University Press.

Wechsler, Diana B. (2005). Una experiencia del exilio español en la Argentina.

Wifredo Viladrich entre el arte y la política. Migraciones y Exilios (6), 65—78.

Wikipedia http://www.wikipedia.com

Zigiotto, Diego M. (2009). Las Mil y Una Curiosidades del Cementerio de la

Recoleta. Buenos Aires: Grupo Editorial Norma.

The author would like to thank Marcelo Metayer for his continuous
support of all projects related to Recoleta Cemetery. All historic photos
are in public domain; maps, color photos & diagrams are work of the
author unless otherwise stated. This guide may not be redistributed or
resold.

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