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Full Download PDF of (Ebook PDF) Focus On Writing: Paragraphs and Essays 4th Edition All Chapter
Full Download PDF of (Ebook PDF) Focus On Writing: Paragraphs and Essays 4th Edition All Chapter
Full Download PDF of (Ebook PDF) Focus On Writing: Paragraphs and Essays 4th Edition All Chapter
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Revision Symbols
This chart lists symbols that many instructors use to point out writing
problems in student papers. Next to each problem is the chapter of Focus
on Writing where you can find help with that problem. If your instructor
uses different symbols from those shown here, write them in the space
provided.
INSTRUCTOR’S
STANDARD SYMBOL PROBLEM
SYMBOL
problem
adj with use of
adjective 31
problem
adv with use of
adverb 31
agreement
problem
agr
(subject-
verb) 25
apostrophe
missing or
apos used
incorrectly
34
awkward
sentence
awk
structure 26,
27
capital letter
cap or triple underline [example]
needed 35
problem
with
case
pronoun
case 30
cliché cliché 20
INSTRUCTOR’S
STANDARD SYMBOL PROBLEM
SYMBOL
lack of
coh paragraph
coherence 2
combine
combine sentences
18, 24
comma
cs
splice 23
diction
d or wc (poor word
choice) 22
lack of
paragraph
dev
development
2
frag fragment 24
fused
fs
sentence 23
italics or
ital underlining
needed 35
lowercase;
capital letter
not needed
35
indent new
para or ¶
paragraph
overuse of
pass passive
voice 26
nonstandard
use of
prep
preposition
32
ref pronoun
reference
INSTRUCTOR’S
STANDARD SYMBOL PROBLEM
SYMBOL
not specific
30
run-on
ro
sentence 23
illogical
shift
shift 26
incorrect
sp
spelling 35
problem
tense with verb
tense 28, 29
transition
trans
needed 3
paragraph
unity
not unified 3
wordy, not
w
concise 20
problem
with
//
parallelism
21
problem
with comma
use 33
problem
with
semicolon
use 35
problem
with
quotation
marks 35
close up
space
^ insert
INSTRUCTOR’S
STANDARD SYMBOL PROBLEM
SYMBOL
delete
reversed
letters or
words
obvious
X
error
good point,
✔ well put
add a space
Brief Contents
Introduction: How Writing Can Help You Succeed 1
1 Reading to Write 7
2 Writing a Paragraph 29
3 TESTing Your Paragraphs 59
4 Exemplification Paragraphs 74
5 Narrative Paragraphs 84
6 Process Paragraphs 93
7 Cause-and-Effect Paragraphs 104
8 Comparison-and-Contrast Paragraphs 115
9 Descriptive Paragraphs 129
10 Classification Paragraphs 139
11 Definition Paragraphs 149
12 Argument Paragraphs 160
23 Run-Ons 411
24 Fragments 426
25 Subject-Verb Agreement 447
26 Illogical Shifts 460
27 Misplaced and Dangling Modifiers 470
Unit 6 Understanding Basic
Grammar 481
Fourth Edition
Laurie G. Kirszner
University of the Sciences, Emeritus
Stephen R. Mandell
Drexel University
For Bedford/St. Martin’s
Vice President, Editorial, Macmillan Learning Humanities: Edwin Hill
Editorial Director, English: Karen S. Henry
Senior Publisher for Composition, Business and Technical Writing, Developmental Writing:
Leasa Burton
Executive Editor: Karita dos Santos
Senior Developmental Editor: Jill Gallagher
Senior Production Editor: Jessica Gould
Media Producer: Sarah O’Connor
Senior Production Supervisor: Jennifer Wetzel
Executive Marketing Manager: Joy Fisher Williams
Copy Editor: Wendy Annibell
Senior Photo Editor: Martha Friedman
Photo Researcher: Susan Doheny
Senior Permissions Editor: Kalina Ingham
Senior Art Director: Anna Palchik
Text Design: Jerilyn Bockorick
Cover Design: John Callahan
Cover Photo: cristinagonzalez/Getty Images
Composition: Jouve
Printing and Binding: LSC Communications
109876
fedcba
For information, write: Bedford/St. Martin’s, 75 Arlington Street, Boston, MA 02116 (617-399-
4000)
ISBN 978-1-319-07375-6
Acknowledgments
Text acknowledgments and copyrights appear at the back of the book on pages 696–697, which
constitute an extension of the copyright page. Art acknowledgments and copyrights appear on the
same page as the art selections they cover.
Preface
Our goal with the first edition of Focus on Writing: Paragraphs and
Essays was to create an appealing text that motivates students to improve
their writing and gives them the tools to do so. We developed the popular
TEST tool specifically for this purpose. The letters that spell TEST
stand for Topic sentence or Thesis statement, Evidence, Summary
statement, and Transitions; this acronym helps students understand how
paragraphs and essays are constructed and teaches them how to revise
their own writing by checking for unity, support, and coherence.
In addition to retaining this important and successful feature, the
fourth edition of Focus on Writing continues to reflect two of our central
beliefs: that in college, writing comes first; and that students learn
writing and grammar skills best in the context of their own writing.
Accordingly, the text’s activities not only get students writing
immediately, but also encourage them to return to their own writing to
apply the new skills they are learning and — with the help of TEST —
to create a polished draft. Similarly, Grammar in Context boxes
introduce fundamental concepts where they are most relevant to the
student’s writing.
In this fourth edition, we have used engaging images and a
contemporary design to appeal to today’s visual learners. The text’s
explanations and instructions are streamlined throughout to make them
as useful as possible. In addition, to meet student needs expressed by
many instructors, we have added a new Introduction, How Writing Can
Help You Succeed, and a new Appendix on college success strategies.
We’ve also expanded our step-by-step guidance for developing
paragraphs, and now offer more coverage of critical reading and
thinking, as well as updated exercises and readings that reflect the
concerns of contemporary students.
It is our hope that this new edition of Focus on Writing will continue
to motivate and empower students to become confident writers and
capable editors of their own writing.
Organization
Focus on Writing has a flexible organization that permits instructors to
teach various topics in the order that works best for them and their
students. The book is divided into three sections, which are color-coded
to help students and instructors more easily navigate the book:
The Weight Draws the Towel into the Case Out of Sight When Not in Use
Morekite.thanTheoneonekiteillustrated
on the same framework is known as a compound
consists of three tailless kites on one
long stick, called the spine. The upper one is 3 ft.; the center one, 2
ft., and the lower one, 1 ft. in width. There will be needed for the
construction of this kite a stick of light wood—spruce is best, but it
may be of pine or bass—7 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in. If the wood breaks
easily it will be better to increase the width from ¹⁄₂ in. to ³⁄₄ in., or the
stick might be made ³⁄₈ in. thick without increasing the width, but with
a good spruce stick the dimensions first given will be sufficient. The
stick should be straight-grained and without a twist. If the spine is
twisted, the kites will not lie flat or in a plane with each other, and if
one is out of true, it will cause the kite to be unsteady in the air. The
bow sticks are three, the upper one being 4 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₂ in.;
the center one, 2 ft. long by ¹⁄₄ by ³⁄₈ in., and the lower one, 1 ft. long
by ¹⁄₄ by ¹⁄₄ in. About five sheets of tissue paper will be required, but
more may be needed for color combinations. The so-called French
tissue paper is much better, as it comes in fine colors and is much
stronger than the ordinary tissue. It costs a trifle more, but it pays in
making a beautiful kite. The Chinese rice paper is the strongest, but
it comes only in natural colors.
The Spine with the Bow Sticks The Kite as It Appears with the
Properly Spaced as Shown by the Festoons Hung to the Ends of the
Dimensions Sticks
It will be seen that the kites do not extend to the top and bottom of
the spine stick. The first bow stick is placed 13 in. from the top end of
the spine, and each of its ends extends 6 in. beyond the kite for
fastening the festoons. The bow sticks should be lashed to the spine,
not nailed. Wind diagonally around the two sticks, both left and right,
then wind between the two, around the other windings. This draws
all windings up tightly to prevent slipping.
To string up the upper kite, drill a small hole through the spine, 6
in. from the top, at A, and also 6 in. from each end of the bow stick,
at B and C. If a small drill is not available, notch the stick with a knife
or saw to hold the string. Another hole is made in the spine 29 in.
from the upper bow stick, or at D. Tie the outline string at A, then
pass through the hole at C, then through D, up through B and back
to the starting point at A. In tying the last point, draw up the string
tightly, but not enough to spring the spine or bow. Measure carefully
to see if the distance AC is the same as AB, and if CD is equal to
BD. If they are not, shift the string until they are equal and wind at all
points, as shown at E, to prevent further slipping. Proceed in the
same way with the center and lower kite, and it will be ready for the
cover.
The cover tissue should be cut about 1 in. larger all around than
the surface to be covered, but turn over about half of this allowance.
This will give plenty of looseness to the cover. For the fringe
festoons, cut strips of tissue paper, 2¹⁄₂ in. wide, paste ¹⁄₂ in. of one
long edge over a string, and cut slits with scissors at intervals of 1 in.
along the loose edge. After the fringe has been made, attach it as
shown in the illustration. Do not stretch it tightly, but give sufficient
looseness to make each length form a graceful curve and keep the
sides well balanced.
To bend the bows of the upper and center kites, attach a string
from end to end of each bow on the back side of the kite and spring
in short brace sticks in the manner usual for tailless kites.
Attach the upper end of the bridle at A. The length of the bridle
string is 87 in. and the kite line is attached to it 30 in. from A, leaving
the lower part from this point to F, where it is tied to the spine, 57 in.
long.
The kite should fly without a tail, but if it dodges too much, attach
extra streamers to the ends of the bow sticks of the lower kite, and to
the bottom of the spine.
If good combinations of colors are used a very beautiful kite will be
the result, and one that will fly well.
Simple Experiment in Electromagnetism
Four boys using the same shed as their workshop wished to lock it
so that any one of them could enter alone. Usually only two keys are
supplied with a lock, so two locks were purchased and applied to the
staples as shown. Each boy was provided with a key and could enter
at his pleasure.—Contributed by George Alfred Moore, Versailles, O.
Ferrules for Tool Handles
While paddling a rented canoe one day the paddle struck a rock
and snapped in two a little below the center of the handle. The
boatman laughed at the idea of trying to fix it, but after paying his
price for the paddle I decided to try mending it. The barrel of an old
bicycle pump was procured and I found that it fitted over the paddle
at the break a trifle loosely. It was pushed on the handle out of the
way. Then with a No. 8 bit I bored a hole 8 in. deep in the end of
each broken part. Into these holes, which formed one cavity when
the broken ends were brought together, was forced and glued a
tight-fitting 16-in. dowel pin. The outside of the handle was then
wrapped with tape for about 10 in. each side of the break, and the
pump barrel was forced down over this tape until it completely and
firmly enveloped the broken ends.—Contributed by Clarence G.
Meyers, Waterloo, Iowa
Tightening Lever for Tennis Nets
The Upper Rope on a Tennis Net Held Taut with a Lever on the Post
Tennis nets are always sagging and to keep them at the proper
height requires considerable attention, especially so where the posts
are not solidly set in the ground. A very effective net tightener, and
one that is easy to make is the lever shown in the illustration. One
end of a piece of hardwood board is shaped into a handle the other
end being left large. In the latter a hole is cut to fit loosely over the
post for the net. The upper end of the post is notched and a sheave
pulley is placed in it so that the groove will be in line with the net.
The upper rope on the net is run over the pulley and is attached to
the lever handle. A downward pressure on the handle draws the
rope taut and locks it on the post. It is easily removed from the post
and can be left attached to the rope and rolled up in the net when not
in use.
A Desk Watch Holder
A watch holder for the desk is a great convenience for the busy
worker, and many calendar devices are sold for this purpose, yet
they are no more efficient than the one illustrated, which can be
made from an ordinary spindle desk file. If the wire is too long it can
be cut off and the bend made in it to form a hook for the watch ring.
Cleaning Silverware
To clean silverware or anything made of the precious metals, such
as jewelry, etc., is very simple with the following method: Place a
piece of zinc in a cup, dish, or any glazed ware; put in the articles to
be cleaned, and pour over them a hot solution of water and
carbonate of soda—washing soda—in proportions of one
tablespoonful of soda to ¹⁄₂ gal. of water. This is a solution and
method used by many jewelers for cleaning pins, rings, chains, and
many other small articles made in gold and silver.
Nearly every boy can make kites of the several common varieties
without special directions. For the boy who wants a kite that is not
like those every other boy makes, an eight-pointed star kite,
decorated in an original and interesting manner, in various colors, is
well worth while, even if it requires more careful work, and extra
time. The star kite shown in Fig. 1 is simple in construction, and if
carefully made, will fly to a great height. It is balanced by streamers
instead of the common type of kite tail. Any regular-shaped kite
should be laid out accurately, as otherwise the error appears very
prominent, and unbalances the poise of the kite.
The frame for this star kite is made of four sticks, joined, as
indicated in Fig. 5, with strings running from one corner to the
second corner beyond, as from A to C, from C to E, etc. A little
notching of each pair of sticks lessens the thickness of the sticks at
the center crossing, and strengthens the frame, The sticks are ¹⁄₄ by
¹⁄₂ in. by 4 ft. long, They are set at right angles to each other in pairs,
and lashed together with cord, and also held by a ³⁄₄-in. brad at the
center. The strings that form the sides of the squares, A to G, and B
to H, must be equal in length when tied. The points where the strings
forming the squares cross each other and the sticks are also tied.
The first cover, which is put on with paste, laying it out on a
smooth floor or table as usual in kite making, is plain light-colored
paper. The darker decorations are pasted onto this. The outside
edges of the cover are turned over the string outline, and pasted
down. The colors may be in many combinations, as red and white,
purple and gold, green and white, etc. Brilliant and contrasting colors
are best. The decoration may proceed from the center out, or the
reverse. The outside edge in the design shown has a 1¹⁄₂-in. black
stripe. The figures are black. The next octagonal black line binds the
design together. The points of the star are dark blue, with a gilt stripe
on each. The center design is done in black, dark blue, and gilt.