Data Analysis and Discussion

The findings from the data received from the interview schedule have been analysed using
Thematic Analysis. . We will first identify codes, which are keywords or phrases that represent
patterns in the data. These codes are then grouped together to form base themes, which represent
broader patterns in the data. In the next step we identify the organising themes, which are general
patterns that emerge from the base themes. Finally, the global theme is identified, which is the
overall theme that ties together all the organising themes.

Our analysis of the thematic study sheds light on the multifaceted impact of the Covid 19
pandemic on the livelihoods, supply chains and market dynamics of the weaver community in
Maheshwar. It provides a comprehensive understanding of the complex realities faced by the
community post the global health crisis.

The pandemic has underscored the volatile, uncertain, complex, and ambiguous (VUCA) nature
of the business environment, prompting business owners to exhibit resilience and adaptability in
response to the altered operational landscape. A more nuanced understanding of the qualitative
study conducted reveals the differing impact of the pandemic on three sub-groups - The Workers,
The Owners and the Retailers. Keeping in mind the nature of impact, we decided to present a
detailed thematic analysis for each of these groups. Since the sub themes for Owners and
Retailers provided similar findings, we grouped them into one. The organising themes for each
highlight the aspects of trade relevant to their subgroup whereas the organising themes provide a
higher-level overview of the most important issues affecting the community.

Codes

Organising Themes

1. Retailers
2. Workers

Basic Themes

1. Economic Adaptation
2. Market Response Strategies
3. Globalization and Localization
4. Policy Advocacy and Engagement
 Sub Themes

1. Supply Chain Disruptions and Challenges

2. Financial Sustainability
3. Adaption to the Market Demand Shifts
4. Digitalization Efforts and Challenges
5. Emergence of Niche Market
6. Global Market Expansion
7. Localized Marketing Strategies
8. Governemt Support Utilization
9. Industry Collaboration Initatiatives

Organising Theme #1

The Retailers

Retailers saw significant adverse effects, particularly during the first stages of the shutdown. Due
to the closure of their enterprises, they were left in a state of extreme destitution. Despite the dire
situation, they proved to be the most resilient group. The common challenges faced by each
retailer included disruptions in the supply chain, shifts in market demand, digitalization
challenges, financial hardships, and the impact of reduced tourism, which further lead to
challenges such as sourcing disruptions, increased costs, and delays in materials procurement.
Some of them faced bulk order cancellations, due to transport restrictions. Post the pandemic,
while some of them increased their online presence, others adapt their product offerings to align
with changing consumer preferences, focusing more on functional designs and affordable
options. Furthermore, their heavy reliance on tourism as a significant revenue stream proved
detrimental due to the sluggish pace of recovery, which had ripple effects on skilled weavers and
the local economy. Finally, although there is some awareness of government interventions aimed
at supporting businesses, retailers face challenges in accessing and navigating complex
application processes. Simplification and increased accessibility of these schemes are needed to
provide effective support to retailers.

Basic Themes

1. Economic Adaptation - In response to the resilience and adaptability shown by the majority of
retailers in response to the pandemic, this theme provides a bird eye view of the challenges
faced by them. Encompassing the three main challenges of Supply chain disruptions, financial
instability and shift in demand, majority of the retailers focused on building resilient supply
chains, ensuring financial sustainability, and implementing strategies to adapt to evolving
market conditions.
 2. Market Response Strategies - The innovative and enduring tactics adopted by the
retailers to maintain competitiveness in the market are a testament to their reliance.
While some retailers adopted digitalization practices, others shifted their target market
from a broader to a more niche market, with relatively lower demand but higher price.
This highlights the dynamic business landscape of Maheshwar. Some retailers also
negotiated with suppliers to extend a longer credit period, prolonging their cash
conversion cycle.

3. Globalization and Localisation - Navigating the tensions between the global and local
market dynamics, while some retailers established a foothold in the international
market while others tried to establish their foothold in the local market by implementing
localised marketing strategies. Some small retailers took a new step by embracing UPI
Transactions, while others highlighted India’s culture by leaving an imprint of
Maheshwar on the sarees, for the world to see.

4. Policy Advocacy and Engagement - In stark contrast to the labour force, the merchants
exhibited a heightened degree of knowledge of government initiatives, including several
business-related programmes, among others. Although certain retailers relied on informal
lending sources, the positive aspect was that a small number of merchants, although being
oblivious of the concept of Self Help Groups (SHGs), had established SHGs and effectively
utilised them to fulfil their working capital requirements. Furthermore, their eagerness to acquire
knowledge about the current initiatives in the market fosters a feeling of assurance about the
extensive influence of government schemes on the local level.

Organising Themes

1. Supply Chain Disruptions and Challenges - There was a common consensus among the
retailers regarding challenges in the supply chain operations, ranging from raw material
sourcing, price fluctuations, and increased costs. The strategy adopted by each retailer was
unique in its own way. While on one hand young retailers, with emphasis on new designs,
adopted the strategic approach of managing their inventory carefully and exploring cost-cutting
measures such as simpler materials to reduce wastage, highlighting the skill enhancement and
transference of occupation to younger generations. On the other hand, retailers with decade
long experience in the industry capitalized on strong supplier partnerships. Another
noteworthy strategy was shared by a women entrepreneur, who was a part of a women-led
cooperative, which leveraged collective bargaining power and shared resources to
manage supply chain disruptions.

2. Financial Sustainability - Financial sustainability, with challenges like reduced income, strained
cash flow, and struggles with loan repayment, has been a key concern for retailers within the
weaver community of Maheshwar. Retailers across different profiles, ranging from those
owning large family-owned businesses to small shops focusing on local customers, all
struggled to maintain financial stability in the face of these challenges. Furthermore,
financial sustainability has been particularly challenging for retailers heavily dependent
 on tourism. The significant decline in footfall and sales resulting from travel restrictions
and safety concerns has led to substantial revenue losses and strained cash flow. Apart
from that, some retailers managed potential financial impacts through digitalization and
online focus. But the anxious environment about long-term sustainability still remains,
highlighting the precarious financial position of many retailers in the weaver community.

3. Adaption to the Market Demand Shifts - The evolving preferences and purchasing behavior
of consumers necessitated retailers to respond promptly and effectively to stay
competitive in the market. One common trend observed among retailers is the decline
in demand for luxury sarees and the emergence of a preference for more functional
designs. A large family-owned business had to compromise on quality at times to meet
the demand for more affordable and practical sarees. However, challenges persist in
effectively responding to market demand shifts, particularly for retailers with limited
resources and access to technology. A small shop focusing on local customers, has
struggled to adapt its product offerings to meet changing consumer preferences due to
minimal online presence and reliance on in-person sales. This highlights the need of
strategic investments in digital infrastructure, market research, and product innovation

4. Digitalization Efforts and Challenges - Several retailers made concerted efforts to establish and
enhance their online presence to engage with customers and drive sales. While some
leveraged platforms like Instagram and WhatsApp to showcase their products and interact
directly with customers, particularly younger demographics interested in modern
designs, others encountered several challenges in their digitalization efforts, including
increased costs, technical barriers, and the difficulty of replicating the in-person
shopping experience online. Thus, it highlights how while digitalization offers significant
opportunities for retailers in the weaver community of Maheshwar to adapt to changing
market dynamics and reach new audiences, it also presents various challenges that
must be addressed effectively.

5. Emergence of Niche Market - The emergence of niche markets among weaver retailers in
Maheshwar reflects a strategic response to evolving consumer preferences. Some
retailers identified specific customer segments seeking exclusive, high-quality products
and have tailored their offerings accordingly. This approach allowed them to
differentiate themselves in a competitive market and capture the loyalty of discerning
clients.

6. Global Market Expansion - The local and international demand dynamics observed a major shift
post the pandemic. While local demand took a hit, international demand owing to the
glorification of Indian ethnic wear by brands such as Paul Smith and Christian Dior, showed
a hike. Some retailers capitalised on the international demand by targeting overseas
audiences and leveraging digital platforms. Yet challeneges such as navigating
 international trade regulations, managing logistics, etc did pose a hurdle for some
retailers.

7. Localized Marketing Strategies - Recognizing the importance of catering to the unique

preferences and cultural nuances of local customers, many retailers have tailored their
marketing efforts accordingly. By focusing on localized marketing, retailers aim to strengthen
their connections with the community, enhance brand loyalty, and drive sales. Positive
outcomes include increased customer engagement, improved brand perception, and a deeper
understanding of local market dynamics. Some outliers have yet to fully embrace localized
marketing strategies, but the potential benefits present an opportunity for them to enhance
their market presence and competitiveness.

8. Governemt Support Utilization - Majority of the retailers effectively utilized government support
programs to mitigate the adverse impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic and enhance their
business operations. Utilizing services such as access to financial assistance, skill
development programs, and infrastructure support, the retailers mitigated the adverse
impacts. Moreover, government interventions have facilitated collaborations and
partnerships, fostering a conducive environment for business growth and
innovation.Overall, effective utilization of government support plays a crucial role in
empowering retailers and driving positive economic outcomes in the Weaver
Community of Maheshwar.

9. Industry Collaboration Initatiatives - The responses received from the retailers were mixed.
While it was heartening to see successful partnerships between retailers and other
stakeholders in the textile industry, including suppliers, manufacturers, and artisans, that
facilitated knowledge sharing, resource pooling, and collective problem-solving. Through
industry partnerships, retailers have gained access to specialized expertise, technological
advancements, and diversified market channels, enhancing their capacity for sustainable
growth.

Weavers

The vibrant world of Maheshwari sarees, woven with threads of tradition and intricate artistry, has
grappled with significant challenges over time. The Covid-19 pandemic acted as a stark catalyst,
exacerbating pre-existing vulnerabilities and forcing the weaving community to confront a new
reality. This analysis delves into the intricate tapestry of challenges faced by the weavers of
Maheshwar, both before and after the pandemic, exploring how these hardships have
transformed their lives and livelihoods.

Pre-Covid Struggles:

Market Dependence: The Maheshwari weaving community has traditionally thrived on catering to
specific market segments like weddings and large exhibitions. This dependence on a limited
customer base left them exposed to fluctuations in demand. A cancelled wedding season or a
shift in consumer preferences could have a ripple effect on their income.

Limited Market Reach: Weavers often relied on established buyers or middlemen to connect
them to a wider market. This limited their control over pricing and brand recognition. The
middlemen often took a significant cut, reducing the weavers' profit margins and making it harder
for them to build a direct relationship with consumers.

Raw Material Access and Fluctuations: Securing high-quality materials like silk and zari threads
was an ongoing challenge, especially for smaller workshops. Weavers often relied on a network
of local suppliers, leaving them susceptible to price hikes and inconsistencies in quality.

Weaving Skill Dilution: The younger generation, drawn to the allure of urban opportunities and
higher wages, sometimes viewed weaving as a less lucrative profession. This migration led to a
gradual dilution of traditional weaving skills, jeopardizing the long-term sustainability of the craft.

Lack of Branding and Marketing: Limited marketing efforts restricted the reach of Maheshwari
sarees beyond established markets. Without a strong brand identity, it became difficult for these
exquisite handloom creations to compete with mass-produced alternatives. Weavers lacked the
resources or knowledge to effectively showcase their work and build brand recognition.

The Covid-19 Effect

The pandemic swept through the world, leaving a trail of economic devastation in its wake. The
Maheshwari weaving community was not spared. The pre-existing challenges morphed into
insurmountable struggles, threatening the very fabric of their livelihood.

Supply Chain Disruptions: Lockdowns and travel restrictions severely disrupted the supply chain
of raw materials. With limited movement and border closures, weavers faced shortages of silk,
cotton, and zari threads. The scarcity drove up prices, further straining their already stressed
finances.

Market Collapse: Social distancing norms and cancelled events led to a sharp decline in demand
for sarees, especially those associated with weddings and festive occasions. This resulted in a
significant loss of income for weavers, pushing many families towards financial insecurity. With
no sales and mounting debts, the very survival of the craft became a pressing concern.

Digital Divide: While the world shifted towards online platforms for commerce, many weavers,
particularly older generations, remained on the fringes of the digital revolution. Lack of access to
technology and limited digital literacy skills became critical barriers. Those who couldn't adapt to
online sales platforms were left further behind, unable to tap into potential new customer
segments.

Financial Hardships: The loss of income and increased debt burden due to the pandemic placed
immense strain on weavers' families. Basic necessities like healthcare became a concern,
impacting their overall well-being. Weavers who had previously supported extended families
found themselves struggling to meet their own households' needs. The financial insecurity
created a climate of anxiety and uncertainty about the future.
Government Schemes: Ineffectiveness and Inaccessibility: Many weavers expressed limited
awareness or difficulties navigating government support schemes. Even when accessible, the
schemes might not have catered to the specific needs of the community or may not have
provided sufficient financial aid. The application process itself could be complex and
bureaucratic, further discouraging weavers from seeking assistance.

The Path Forward

Despite the immense hardships, the community spirit of the Maheshwari weavers shone through.
Their resilience and adaptability became evident in their attempts to navigate the new normal.
However, to ensure the long-term sustainability of this traditional craft, a multi-pronged approach
is necessary.

Market Diversification and Direct Sales: Encouraging weavers to explore new markets beyond
weddings and exhibitions is crucial. Government initiatives or training programs can equip them
with the skills and resources to identify and cater to new customer segments. Facilitating direct
sales through online platforms or government-supported craft stores can empower weavers and
improve profit margins.

Skill Development and Knowledge Transfer: Promoting skill development programs is essential
to attract younger generations and bridge the knowledge gap. Partnerships between the
government, NGOs, and textile design institutes can create training opportunities to ensure the
continuation

Limitations of the Study

Sample Representativeness
The study's findings may have limited generalizability due to its reliance on a small or
non-randomized sample of weavers and retailers. To strengthen future studies, it is crucial to
include a wider range of participants representing diverse profiles within the Maheshwari weaving
community, considering factors such as age, gender, workshop size, skill level, and geographical
location.
For the retailer focus, the study should have included a mix of established shops, independent
retailers, those focused on local markets, and those engaged in online sales, as their pandemic
experiences are likely to be distinct. Additionally, the inclusion of retailers from different
geographical locations, such as the main Maheshwar market and smaller towns or villages, could
have provided valuable insights into the varying challenges faced.
Self-Reporting Bias
Weavers and retailers may consciously or unconsciously downplay or exaggerate their
experiences based on social desirability or current circumstances. To mitigate this, future
research could combine interviews with observational studies or cross-reference data with
independent market reports.
For the retailer focus, the self-reporting bias may be particularly evident in the areas of
competition and relationships. Retailers might underplay their hardships to maintain a positive
image for attracting customers or avoid revealing strained relationships with suppliers due to
outstanding payments. They may also strategically emphasize certain challenges (e.g., supply
chain disruptions) while downplaying others (e.g., difficulty in adapting their product mix) based
on a perceived potential for garnering support.
Limited Historical Context
A deeper historical analysis would help determine whether the pandemic intensified existing
vulnerabilities or created entirely new challenges for the Maheshwari weaving community. Future
studies would benefit from examining long-term trends in market demand, generational shifts
within the weaver community, and the evolution of their supply chains.
For the retailer focus, the limited historical context could have obscured the impact of pre-existing
market trends. For example, were shifts in tourism already impacting retailers before the
pandemic, with visitors seeking cheaper alternatives or machine-made souvenirs? This could
indicate a broader market trend beyond the pandemic's effects. Similarly, was there a pre-existing
decline in local demand for Maheshwari sarees due to changing fashion trends among residents?
This would have implications for retailers catering to domestic markets.
Ethical Considerations
Informed Consent
Ensuring truly informed consent is paramount. The study clearly explains its purpose, how the
data will be used, and the participants' right to withdraw at any time. Consent form was simple,
provided in the local language, and explained thoroughly, especially for participants with limited
literacy.

Confidentiality and Anonymity

Protecting the identities of weavers and retailers is essential, especially when discussing
sensitive matters such as debt, competition, or critiques of government policies. Any identifying
details were rigorously removed or disguised when presenting the findings.

Sensitivity
We adopted a culturally sensitive and trauma-informed approach, understanding that the
pandemic may have profoundly impacted participants' lives. Building trust, avoiding judgment,
and respecting the weavers' experiences were crucial for conducting ethically sound research.

Potential Harm
We considered the potential unintended consequences of their work. It is important to balance
highlighting the community's challenges with showcasing their resilience, agency, and the value
of their craft. This will help prevent further stigmatization or create opportunities for exploitation by
external actors.

Conclusion
The study underscores the multifaceted challenges experienced by the Maheshwari weaving
community, revealing how the pandemic exposed and intensified pre-existing vulnerabilities.

Key findings include:

Economic Precarity
The weavers and retailers operated on fragile economic foundations, with limited buffers to
withstand shocks like the pandemic. This highlights a need for policies focused on long-term
financial resilience and stability for the sector.
Fractured Supply Chains
Disruptions revealed the need to strengthen and localize supply chains for raw materials and
explore cooperative models to enhance the community's collective bargaining power. For
retailers, the impact of fractured supply chains was evident in the form of canceled orders,
delayed deliveries, and limited inventory to satisfy customer demand.
The Digital Divide as an Opportunity Gap
Adapting to online platforms was crucial for survival in the new economic landscape. Overcoming
the digital divide should be a priority, with targeted digital literacy programs tailored for the
weaving community. For retailers, the digital divide presented an additional set of challenges,
such as online marketing, logistics, and shipping, which require specific training and support.
Limited Agency
Weavers often lack control over their livelihoods, relying heavily on middlemen and external
market forces. Interventions should focus on empowering weavers and retailers, building their
capacity for direct sales and developing their own brands.
Government Support: Mismatch and Inadequacy
The study suggests a disconnect between existing government schemes and the specific needs
of the Maheshwari weaving community. This calls for a collaborative approach, with active
participation from weavers and retailers in designing support programs to ensure their
accessibility, relevance, and effectiveness. For retailers, the complexity of application procedures
and the prioritization of weaver support over their needs have been additional barriers to
accessing government assistance.
Call to Action
Ensuring the survival and revival of Maheshwari weaving requires a multi-pronged and
empathetic approach. Future policies and interventions must urgently address market
diversification, skill development, supply chain resilience, bridging the digital divide, and most
importantly, empowering weavers and retailers as the custodians of a rich cultural heritage.
For the retailer-specific recommendations, the call to action should include:
Market Diversification: Facilitating retailer participation in curated exhibitions beyond the wedding
circuit and promoting Maheshwari sarees through government emporiums and cultural festivals
across India to expand their reach to new domestic customer segments.
E-commerce Capacity Building: Training programs for retailers should go beyond platform setup
and include marketing, customer service in a digital environment, inventory management, and
understanding online consumer behavior.
Bridging the Gap: Creating opportunities for weaver-retailer collaborations, such as
co-developing new designs catering to modern sensibilities or joint participation in online
marketplaces, leveraging a retailer's marketing expertise.
Policy Advocacy: Including a strong retailer voice in consultations around policy development to
ensure government schemes address their distinct needs, including access to working capital,
support for marketing initiatives, and protection against predatory online practices.
By addressing these multifaceted challenges with a collaborative and empathetic approach, the
Maheshwari weaving community can be positioned for long-term resilience and the preservation
of their rich cultural heritage.