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22 City Walk
Centro Storico
by the largest unreinforced concrete dome
START LARGO DI TORRE ARGENTINA
ever built. From the Pantheon, follow signs
END PALAZZO FARNESE
LENGTH 1.5KM; THREE HOURS
towards Piazza Navona, stopping off en route
for a coffee at 5Caffè Sant’Eustachio
(p139), reckoned by many to serve the
Follow this tour through Rome’s tightly capital’s best coffee. A short hop away,
packed historical centre and even without
6Piazza Navona (p83) is central Rome’s
trying you’ll come across some of the city’s showpiece square, where you can compare
best-known sights. the two giants of Roman baroque: Bernini,
Start off in 1Largo di Torre Argentina creator of the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi,
(p84), a busy square set around the ruins and Borromini, responsible for the Chiesa di
of four Republic-era temples and the site Sant’Agnese in Agone. On the other side of
of Julius Caesar’s assassination in 44 BC. Corso Vittorio Emanuel II, the busy road that
From here it’s a short walk up Via dei Cestari, bisects the centro storico, life centres on
past Bernini’s much-loved 2Elefantino,
7Campo de’ Fiori (p84). By day this noisy
to the 13th-century 3Chiesa di Santa square stages a colourful market but at night
Maria Sopra Minerva (p79), Rome’s only it transforms into a rowdy open-air pub, be-
Gothic church. Continue past the church loved of foreign students and lusty Romans.
to the 4Pantheon (p79), ancient Rome’s Just beyond, Piazza Farnese is overlooked by
best-preserved monument. Built in 27 BC, the Renaissance 8Palazzo Farnese (p84),
modified by Hadrian in the 2nd century AD home to some superb frescoes that rival the
and consecrated as a Christian church in Sistine Chapel’s. To see them, though, you’ll
608, it’s an architectural masterpiece capped need to book well in advance.