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Asilia Nawiri Group - Responsible Travel Together
Asilia Nawiri Group - Responsible Travel Together
Together.
‘Nawiri’ is Kiswahili for ‘to flourish, thrive’, reflecting
our vision of creating a future where vital ecosystems
and local communities thrive together.
Responsible Travel.
Positive Impact.
Reimagined Together.
Dear Reader,
Our group is more than just a travel company. We are a platform that
connects responsible travellers with impactful initiatives, creating positive
change at scale. For over 25 years, we have taken our guests along on our
journey; not only immersing them in the awe-inspiring beauty of some of the
world’s last great big-game ecosystems, but also giving them a first-hand
Helen Gichochi, MBS, OGW
experience of the challenges and initiatives of how to protect these areas and
Board Member, Chair of alleviate poverty in these wild areas.
Impact & Sustainability
Impact is in our DNA. Since inception, we’ve supported national parks,
Committee
community-led conservancies, local communities and governments with many
Nawiri Group
initiatives and millions of dollars in their efforts to safeguard and manage these
natural ecosystems that are essential for our planet and improve the livelihoods
and opportunities of the people living in and around these areas.
Habitat loss, climate change, and rural poverty present more persistent,
urgent and existential threats than ever before. We, along with our partners,
are uniquely positioned to respond. With the backing of long-term impact
investors, we have embarked on a new chapter in our journey since COVID.
We are scaling up our work with expert partners to drive a paradigm shift that
structurally improve the future prospects of these great ecosystems and their
custodian communities.
I invite you to join us on this journey, engage with these stories, and become
an advocate for the change we’re fostering. Together, we can shift the
trajectory toward a future where ecosystems and communities don’t just
survive — they thrive.
Yours,
Helen Gichochi
006
A Brief History
008
Positive Impact Together
010
Conservation reimagined
014
Challenges
028
Vital Ecosystems
036
Rewriting the rules
042
Female change makers
050
The cost of conservation
056
Carbon beyond emissions
060
Carbon Tanzania
062
Books aren’t enough
070
Kamitei Foundation
072
People and wildlife together
080
Honeyguide Foundation
082
Maa Trust
084
The silicon savannah
088
The lifeblood of the Maasai
094
A path forward in the wilderness
100
Six Rivers Africa
102
Innovating for coexistence
112
Keeping the peace
124
Conservation credentials
126
The impact of safari travel
128
Asilia Africa
130
Invitation to engage
A brief history
With over two decades of experience in community driven
conservation, Nawiri Group brings together travel companies,
communities and expert partners to improve the prospects of
some of Africa’s most iconic natural ecosystems, making both
nature and people thrive.
2012
Asilia became a Cerified B
1992 Corporation as the first hospitality /
Oliver’s 2009 travel company in Africa. First
Camp Honeyguide sustainable safari/lodge company
founded Foundation in Africa to receive a 5-star rating
2004 founded, with for sustainability from GIIRS
1987 Asilia formed through merger of support of Asilia
Rekero
Camp
upscale family-owned safari
companies with a combined 115
2013
Norfund joins Asilia as
founded years of operating experience
an investor
1990 2010
Sokwe
founded as
2005 Asilia were founding
partners in the
Formation of the first Guiding
mobile camps
outfitter for
School in the Maasai Mara,
Mara Naboisho
Conservancy, a
2013
Koiyaki Guiding School Asilia is founding
1998
Ker & Downey partnership
partner and seed
,
safari guides between over 500
funder of MMWCA
Go2Africa formed as local community
- Maasai Mara Wildlife
leading online resource landowners
Conservancies
for safari travel
Association
2022
2014 Nawiri Group established as impact
Asilia is winner of the
prestigious global `Tourism
2020 and collaboration platform,
including long-term financial
Covid crisis funding stakeholder/
for Tomorrow’ award by commitments by Norfund, LGT,
partner for the Mara together with LGT
the World Travel & Tourism Indahl Family, Sinding Family and
VP, Band Foundation, Conservation
Council co-founders.
Internations, GIZ, TNC, Tusk, Virgin
Unite, Lion Recovery Fund, Oak
Foundation, and Maliasilli
2017 2023
Usangu wetlands
research project
2022 Nawiri Foundation
secures funding for
Usangu Expedition
started with Norfund impact-at-scale
Camp launched
and Six Rivers Africa
2022 2023
2019 Opening of Wildlife Tourism Nawiri Group and
Arrival of first electric, College of Maasai Mara, with individual brands
solar-powered safari key Nawiri Group financial certified as B Corps
2018 vehicle which joined
the fleet at Ol Pejeta
backers leading funding
Technology
partnership Bush Camp in
with Bazaruto, northern Kenya
Go2Africa
and Asilia
Positive
impact
together
Key individuals
working on Sam Shaba Phoebe Nadupoi
the frontline PROGRAMS MANAGER CHIEF COMMS. & FUNDRAISING
of community- HONEYGUIDE FOUNDATION OFFICER, MARA CONSERVANCIES
led initatives in
Conservation in Africa is already It’s not just important, it’s essential
ecosystem protection rooted in community. These for communities to directly benefit
share their views. natural ecosystems still exist from conservation for it to be
because people have looked sustainable. Kenya is a signatory
after them for generations. We to the High Ambition Coalition
can’t teach communities how to and is committed to setting 30% of
be guardians of the land, they land aside for conservation. Right
already know that better than now, there is no additional land
anyone. The issue now is one of that the government can set
space; despite the vastness of aside without including areas that
these ecosystems, we can’t divide are owned by individuals or
these landscapes into separate communities. They have to be
areas for humans and wildlife. If beneficiaries. A recent study
communities are really in the showed that 83.4% of wildlife in the
driving seat, they take ownership Mara was found outside of the
of the challenges and the National Game Reserve
solutions; they see the value of demonstrating how important
conservation in their lives; they community land is in terms of
will protect the natural resources. conserving wildlife and
And we know community-driven biodiversity. Working together with
conservation solutions are always communities we can balance the
cheaper and more sustainable need of protection with
than the alternatives. One of the maintaining traditional lifestyles,
biggest barriers we face is a whilst also providing them with
negative narrative around guaranteed income from leasing
community led conservation, and the land and other benefits.
the misconception that we need Currently we are working to
to intervene. We need to take increase the land area protected
success stories as proof of by the conservancy model, and
concept, then fund and support bring in further benefits, and
community approaches. revenue diversification to the
people who live within this space.
8
Godson Mollel Sheila Makindara Supuk Olekao
POSITIVE IMPACT AND HEAD OF COMMUNITY, SIX MANAGER, MAKAME WILDLIFE
SUSTAINABILITY OFFICER, ASILIA RIVERS AFRICA MANAGEMENT AREA
9
Conservation
Reimagined
The Nawiri Group is working towards shifting the paradigm,
the underlying thinking and approaches towards creating better
prospects for some of Africa’s most iconic natural ecosystems and
the people living in and around these areas.
Protecting Africa’s wild spaces, while at the same Timing for this new direction has never been more
time ensuring the communities living in or around important. The effects of climate change are already
them are part of the process, is a complex issue that threatening the ancient cycles of life, and the lack of
doesn’t have a quick fix. Historically, conservation an economically viable alternative to subsistence
efforts have overlooked the integral role of human farming is placing ever greater pressures on the
communities living alongside wildlife. landscapes. Positive and effective action is critical to
the future of East Africa, its people, and wildlife.
When money was provided, it was generally from
non-African donor funds, and left communities We believe it’s only possible to make a lasting and
excluded from the decision-making processes that effective difference when ownership of conservation
had a direct impact on their lives. Of course, there sits with the local communities who inhabit the
have been some success stories, but the reality is ecosystems that need protection. If you can make
initiatives that neglect the link between nature and wilderness into an asset that generates more money
people, often falter. in its natural state than not, and you equip the
communities that live in these spaces to manage
In partnership with local communities, Nawiri is
them effectively, then you have the right recipe to
pioneering a new approach, and it will be
ensure conservation works.
sustainable and community focused to create a
healthy and scalable long-term future for some of However, it’s essential to support these communities
the continent’s most important ecosystems. The old in building the structure to manage their own natural
ways, with their absence of community involvement resources and help them generate enough revenue
and lack of financial sustainability, must be through diverse sources to be make conservation of
consigned to the history books. the land financially viable. →
12
Community governance Nawiri advocates for diverse, sustainable funding
streams beyond ecotourism to ensure the long-term
Long term success can only happen when local
viability of conservation areas.
communities want to protect the natural assets
surrounding them and have the ability to do so Nawiri Group partner, Carbon Tanzania, recognise
through the revenue generated and an infrastructure the need to get more capital into these large
that ensures it’s used to benefit the community. It is landscapes where tourism can’t meet all of the costs,
important to work collaboratively with experienced and believe carbon credits offer a financial way to
partners, such as Honeyguide Foundation in add value to large, important conservation spaces.
Tanzania, who help communities implement a Carbon Tanzania say: “It is really important to be
comprehensive management programme and mindful of the price of living alongside wildlife, such
strong governance structures. as lions and elephants, because crop destruction
and livestock predation can be devastating to
The long-term success of conservation also lies with
families living in rural communities.”
education. Through education it’s possible to equip
individuals with the knowledge and skills to actively
participate in decision-making, drive local
development and promote community ownership of
While tourism can contribute, it’s
the solutions needed. important to recognise that it isn’t
In partnership with organisations like the Kamitei enough on its own.
Foundation, who help improve the education
standards and opportunities for children in rural
Tanzania, Nawiri want to pave the way for more “While our goal as conservationists is to see an
self-reliant, and thriving communities. In the longer increase in wildlife numbers, we have to be genuine
term, education has a strong and positive impact on and honest with local communities if we want them
the standard of living of individuals and will create the to become active participants in the protection of
foundation for effective self-governance structures. wildlife,” adds Sam Shaba who is the Programs
Manager for Honeyguide.
13
Challenges
Faced Together
If wild areas are to be governed by the communities that live
there, education and capacity building are essential, while for
wildlife populations to grow, solutions need to be found to
resolve human-wildlife conflict. In order to change the long-term
picture, we need to address these challenges.
Educating a growing population
A stream of chattering children gather on the dusty
ground outside a school in Tanzania, their neat
uniforms in stark contrast to the dilapidated
classrooms nearby. Peer inside, and you’ll see up to a
100 boys and girls crowded into a single room, with
just one teacher at the front. The walls are cracked,
windows broken, and the blackboard is worn thin from
years of use. It’s not typical of all Tanzanian schools of
course, but in rural districts this is often the reality.
Species Diversity: 4,623 plants, 393 Species Diversity: 310 mammal species ,
mammals, and over 1,000 bird species. 960 species of birds
Protected Areas: 12.42% of land and 0.76% Protected Areas: 43.7% of land in Tanzania
of marine area under protection. is somehow protected or conserved.
Serengeti-Mara Ecosystem
40,000 km2
BI O DI VERSITY
Over 500 bird and 100 mammal species
50,000 km2
BI O DI VERSITY
Over 578 bird and 140 mammal species
90,000 km2
BI O DI VERSITY
Over 440 bird and 130 mammal species
TA N Z A N I A
Ruaha
As dawn breaks over the Greater Ruaha Ecosystem, the first rays of
sunlight bathe the landscape in a warm, golden hue. A lion pride,
silhouetted against the awakening sky, stirs in the cool morning air.
This is a typical start to the day in one of Tanzania’s most diverse
and expansive ecosystems, a place where nature unfolds in its
most primal form.
Showcasing the diversity of this region, in the Usangu Wetland area a large flock
of yellow-billed stork suddenly lifts from the shallow water they’ve been wading in.
For a moment their brilliance lights up an otherwise dark sky, while lilies add a
splash of unexpected lilac into an otherwise verdant landscape.
Ruaha National Park is Tanzania’s largest, and despite its vastness and rich
biodiversity, it doesn’t get the same attention or tourist traffic as the more familiar
national parks, such as the Serengeti.
This ecosystem supports a rich tapestry of life, with over 1,700 plant species
providing sustenance and shelter to the parks inhabitants. The birdlife is
particularly remarkable, with more than 570 species making their home here, from
tiny sunbirds to African fish eagles. Nearly 200 species of mammals, including
large populations of elephants, giraffes, and rare African wild dogs, roam these
lands, each playing their role in the delicate ecological balance.
The Ruaha Ecosystem, with its meandering rivers and vast grasslands, is not just a
haven for wildlife; it serves as a significant carbon sink. The diverse plant life and
extensive grasslands absorb carbon dioxide, playing an essential role in mitigating
climate change. This natural process mirrors the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem’s role in
reducing wildfire risks and carbon emissions through the grazing habits of its large
wildebeest and antelope populations.
31
TA N Z A N I A / K E N YA
Serengeti-Mara
The sun isn’t yet fully over the horizon but its effect on the vast
grassland is mesmerisingly beautiful. Partially obscured by backlit
grasses, a cheetah probably no more than a year old is standing
motionless, its eyes fixed intently on a group of Thomson’s gazelles
in the distance. A new day has just begun in the Maasai Mara,
Kenya’s showpiece national park, and for the young cheetah,
who has been joined by his two brothers, it will be another day of
survival on the open savannah.
At about 14,740 square kilometres, Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park dwarfs the
1,510 square kilometre Massai Mara National Park in Kenya. The Mara River creates
a natural border between the two, as well as a barrier for the vast wildebeest herds
that migrate through the whole ecosystem in search of seasonal grazing.
This annual migration is one of the greatest mass movements of animals on earth,
and scientists have recently concluded that a large population of grazing animals
like the wildebeest of the Serengeti-Mara, helps to fight climate change by eating
grass that would otherwise provide fuel for wildfires that can run unchecked,
releasing vast quantities of carbon into the atmosphere.
The Serengeti-Mara ecosystem is rich in wildlife of all kinds, from industrious dung
beetles to the herds of elephants and buffalo that keep them busy. No fewer than
70 species of mammal carve out an existence here, with topi, eland, and impala
grazing on the vast grassland, and leopard, lion, and cheetah predating on the
antelope species. Hippopotamus and Nile crocodile rule the rivers, and birds like
the African fish eagle, secretary bird, and lilac breasted roller, the sky.
33
TA N Z A N I A
Selous-Nyerere
The miombo woodland weaves a tapestry of dappled sunlight
within this corner of Africa’s largest wildlife reserve as a solitary
giraffe emerges through the trees. Its elongated neck arches
skyward as it plucks tender shoots from a nearby tree. Nearby a
pack of wild dogs sleep in the warm sand of a dried-out river bed.
One, ever vigilant, gazes upwards, its amber eyes light up at the
sound of a startled bird before settling back down with the pack.
As dusk falls they will stir for a hunt, but for now they rest in this
slice of undisturbed wilderness teeming with life.
Within this vast ecosystem a large-scale hydropower project is taking shape. The
Stiegler’s Gorge Hydroelectric Dam, part of the Julius Nyerere Hydroelectric Power
Station, is expected to generate significant renewable energy, addressing nearly
60% of Tanzania’s planned energy demand. Its completion symbolises a major step
towards a grid powered fully by renewable energy and economic development for
the nation, although isn’t without controversy as the need for renewable energy is
balanced with the imperative to preserve the natural ecosystem.
35
Rewriting the Rules
Community-led conservation in East Africa is changing the path of
wildlife protection. The success of these areas offers deep learning
and a roadmap for the future of ecosystem protection.
In the sprawling savannas of East Africa, a quiet of the local communities. By involving residents in
revolution is underway. Local communities are decision-making and ensuring they benefit
rewriting the narrative of conservation, while local economically, these initiatives have fostered a sense
stewardship and innovative approaches are driving of ownership and responsibility towards conservation.
ecological and economic success in the Maasai Moreover, these models have introduced sustainable
Mara and Tanzania, reshaping the landscape of land and wildlife management practices, balancing
wildlife conservation. the needs of wildlife with those of the community.
Traditional efforts to protect the natural word often Unlike traditional conservation models that often
prioritise policing and don’t address the needs of result in conflict and alienation, the community-led
local communities, leaving them on the margins. In approach in the Maasai Mara and Tanzania has
doing so, they fail to address the primary cause of fostered cooperation and mutual benefit. These
habitat loss - poverty. However, in recent years, a successes stand in contrast to less effective
paradigm shift has been observed, with community- conservation efforts in other regions, highlighting the
led initiatives gaining traction and showing importance of local engagement and benefit-sharing.
promising results.
The triumphs in the Maasai Mara and Tanzania offer
In the Maasai Mara, community conservancies are a valuable lessons for global conservation strategies.
beacon of success. Over 83% of the region’s wildlife, They underscore the potential of community-led
including key species like elephants and lions, are initiatives in achieving sustainable conservation
now thriving within them. The model has brought outcomes and improving the livelihoods of local
tangible benefits to local communities too, with populations. As the world grapples with the twin
conservancies paying millions of dollars in leasing challenges of biodiversity loss and socio-economic
fees to households. The inclusive governance model, development, these inclusive models offer a hopeful
where local residents have a say in management, pathway forward.
has been a game-changer.
The conservancy model in East Africa is more than a
Similarly, in Tanzania, Wildlife Management Areas conservation success story; it’s a testament to the
(WMAs) like Makame and Randilen have shown power of local action and the potential for
remarkable progress. In Makame, revenue increased harmonious coexistence between humans and
by a staggering 980% in just three years, while nature. As these models continue to evolve, they
Randilen saw a 45% increase until 2019. These WMAs offer a blueprint for conservation that is as much
have reduced poaching by 94%, indicating a about benefitting communities as it is about
significant turnaround in wildlife protection. protecting wildlife. The future of conservation may
well lie in the hands of those who live with the land
The success of these models lies in their ability to
and its creatures.
align the interests of wildlife conservation with those
36
Randilen WMA, Tanzania
Randilen stands as a testament to effective community-led governance,
ensuring the viability of critical wildlife corridors. 92% of the community
feel included in its governance, while 93.5% view it as a success.
.
constructing airstrips, ranger
posts, entrance gates, offices,
vehicles, radio stations, and
boreholes.
37
Maasai Mara Conservancies
The conservancies are anchored on a partnership between the landowners
and tourism investors. The landowners commit their land to conservation in
exchange for guaranteed income derived from tourism revenue.
16,530 178,668 24
Landowners Hectares of land Conservancies
receiving income under conservation at various
from conservancy in community developmental
lease payments conservancies stages
Conservancies offer a
Maasai Mara Conservancies guaranteed income for
landowners totalling over 7.5
million USD annually.
.
The landowners recognise
that expanding conservation
areas creates sustainable
economic avenues for their
community.
.
pastoralist lifestyles to
Makame WMA continue but ensures wildlife
can also thrive.
40
Change makers
The women carving out a career in a male dominated industry to
fight stereotypes and change societal perceptions.
Across East Africa, determined women are Tourism in Dar Es Salaam where I studied for two years.
overcoming societal expectations and tough Out of my 20-strong cohort there were five girls, and
challenges in-order to carve out careers in a male I’m the only one who made it into being employed in
dominated industry. These female guides and camp the industry.
manager are change makers, who are setting an
After graduating I was warned it would be hard to find
important precedent in gender equality, proving to
a job as the message was still, “this is not for girls”. I
other young girls that with perseverance and courage,
was told to go home, there are no roles for you. I sent
it’s possible to walk a different path in life.
off many applications and one was to a small safari
company. By coincidence, I had the same first name
as the owner’s wife who happened to see my
Zawadi Dominic
application and told her husband, you should employ
Safari Guide at Namiri Plains Camp, Tanzania
this girl. I ended up working there for two years as an
Zawadi Dominic (pictured left and on page 46) grew assistant guide, gaining great experience.
up on the shores of Lake Victoria in northwestern
I remember the excitement felt when I heard there
Tanzania. As one of twelve children family life was
was an all-female camp opening in the Serengeti. For
busy, but from an early age she knew she wanted to
once we weren’t being told that girls can’t do this job,
be a safari guide. Zawadi tells her own story…
that this isn’t a female industry. I sent in my
“Growing up as part of a large family in a small rural application for a role there the very same day.
village was tough. I went to school but I also had to
I still had a lot of gaps in my knowledge but was
fetch water, collect firewood and help my mother with
determined to develop my skills. It’s uncommon for
my siblings. She didn’t have a job but was keen that I
women to learn to drive in Tanzania and my previous
had a good career, however safari guide was
guiding role had been one as a passenger in a vehicle
definitely not what she had in mind.
only. This was just another gender barrier to overcome
I always loved nature and animals, but it was a school and I completed my training and started as a guide at
visit to Mikumi National Park that sealed it for me. Asillia’s Dunia Camp.
Going on a wildlife safari and meeting the guides; I
It was inspirational to work in an all-female team,
knew it was what I wanted to do. My parents were less
although not always easy in the early days as we
keen, because like many they viewed it as a man’s job
found our feet. There were some very physical tasks
and refused to support me in pursuing this path.
we had to undertake, but we found by working as a
Thankfully my cousin in Uganda offered to intervene team it got easier.
and give me the support I needed. He told me not to
There are still challenges to being a female in this
be discouraged and actually eventually helped talk
industry, and some men still try to discourage us,
my parents around. I went to the National College of
sometimes being hesitant to share information, or →
43
telling us we won’t be able to navigate our vehicle Precious Senewa
through a bit of tough terrain. We just need to keep Safari Guide at Encounter Mara, Kenya
proving them wrong. Over time, as more females
Precious Senewa (pictured above) grew up in a small
enter the industry, it will become more accepted.
rural village called Mararianta. An only child, her
When you ensure equal education for girls, you make mother was a single parent and day-to-day life was
sure you are educating the whole world. I’d love to see focused on the necessities. Collecting water involved
companies be more open and give females a chance. a walk of 15km to their nearest source, and she would
We need to change the mindset of our society as help wash their clothes in the Mara River. It was during
there is still an expectation that girls will get married, excursions into the bushy areas around the village to
have children and stay at home to look after the collect wood that Precious first encountered wildlife,
family. The world is changing though, and we need to although elephants in the area were more a cause for
change how people think about female roles. concern rather than wonder. Here is Precious’ story…
One of my favourite things as a guide is to take part I became very interested in wildlife. My uncle was a
in Twende Porini, which means “Let’s go to the bush” guide and would sometimes take us on game drives,
in Swahili. This initiative gives children from local which is where my own career aspirations came from.
villages the chance to experience a safari. For me, it However, I was told that this wasn’t a job for females.
is going back to where I started; that moment that In fact, societal belief was that girls don’t even get a
inspired me to become a guide. I see the children fall say in their future, but I wanted to be different.
in love with the bush like I did. Maybe some of them
My uncle didn’t approve, and he warned me I was
will one day enter the industry as a result of this
wasting my time. He didn’t even think I should go to
experience too.”
school. Instead, the expectation was that I would get →
44
married, have children, and stay at home as a learnt about history, visited pre-historic sites, studied
housewife. Thankfully, my mother saw things wildlife behaviour and so much more.
differently. She wanted me to be a change maker in
After graduating I returned to Asilia to work for them
society and gave me her full support.
and have remained with them ever since. Their training
I had to move from my village to the city in order to programme has been amazing and I have learnt so
attend secondary school. My mother struggled to pay much. It has changed my life and now I am one of the
the fees and sometimes I was sent home due to lack few female guides within the tourism industry.
of money. I’m so grateful she persisted. She taught
Young females who want more in life and want a
herself how to use a computer and managed to get a
career, should never lose hope. Everything is
job, although the salary was low. To make up the
achievable when you have patience, and nothing is
money she developed a side hustle, selling fruits and
impossible when you put your mind to it. Guiding
porridge to fund my tuition costs.
remains very male dominated and sometimes as
The head of my school told me there was a scholarship females we do face challenges of disrespect. I’ve been
programme; Asilia were looking to sponsor a student told I should know my place, that this isn’t my job and
and I was determined to take this opportunity. They that soon I will get tired and give up. I just ignore this
came to the school to do interviews and offered me though and don’t let it get to me.
an internship at one of their camps. I was then able to
I want to be the best I can be and show what women
attend the Koiyaki Guiding School on a scholarship,
can do; I kill these comments with kindness and hard
sitting the Kenyan National Guide Certificate Exam,
work. The industry needs to give more females a
learning about guiding, nature management and
chance and offer more scholarship opportunities to
guest relations. The level of training is exceptional.
address the imbalance. Women are great at this job. →
School trips took us to different parts of Kenya, and we
45
Roslyn Assey Lailatu Kivuyo
Camp Manager at Oliver’s Camp, Tanzania Safari Guide at Dunia Camp, Tanzania
Roslyn Assey (pictured top right) is from a loving Lailatu Kivuyo (pictured bottom left and page 43)
family of two parents, five brothers and five sisters. grew up Sambwa Village in the Dodoma region of
Being the youngest in her family, everyone was Tanzania. One of four children, her early years were
involved in looking after her as she grew up in the typical of a child growing up in rural East Africa. A
Kilimanjaro region in northern Tanzania. She was chance encounter while fetching water saw her
raised to respect her elders and value the hard work become the first recipient of the Asilia Africa
of her parents. Roslyn recounts her journey… Scholarship Fund changing the trajectory of her life.
Here is Lailatu’s story…
“After seeing my brothers taking tourists up and down
Mount Kilimanjaro, I started dreaming of working in “It’s fair to say my early years were representative of a
tourism myself. This soon became my burning desire, lot of children growing up in this part of Africa. My
and I shared my passion with my siblings. However, to mother was a farmer, although left our village to seek
them my hopes were just a fairy tale because they work, leaving us with our grandmother. We’d help
didn’t see women working in tourism. tend the crops, fetch water and collect firewood to
cook over. Now, when I see the fire lit in camps, it
I finished at high school and wanted to join a
makes me smile as we gather round it to tell stories,
university that offered Tourism and Wildlife
because for many years it was a critical part of our life
Management training. Unfortunately, my parents
and we had to be so fuel efficient when burning wood.
couldn’t afford to pay the fee. Instead, I did other
government programmes. Several years later, when I I attended school but it wasn’t all about learning in
was teaching children, a friend of mine who knew the classroom. We’d help cultivate the school farm,
about my ambitions, showed me an advert from a collect wood and clean the classrooms. I remember
tourist company for a receptionist job. I applied and being so thankful that we had food at school through
managed to get the work. After six months of working donations, even if we did have to take time out of the
in the bush, the company recognised my hard work school day to fetch water in order to prepare it.
and passion so promoted me to management level. I
I moved away from the village for secondary school
stayed with them for four years, but then felt I wanted
and live with my father. I completed my O Levels and
to grow my skills further, so I joined Asilia. I’ve been
thought about different career options, but they all
with the company for three years now.
seemed very hard to get into. He wouldn’t support me
My family have come to realise that something that going to college, so I returned to the village where I
seemed impossible, is possible. They support me 100 grew up to live with my mother. Together we started a
per cent with their love and prayers and are always small restaurant which only served black tea and
wishing the best for me. I am now able to support chapatis. It didn’t generate much money, and when
them back because as they are older, they cannot do my mother got sick, I couldn’t run it by myself.
so much for themselves now. I am able to send them
During this time, I went to fetch water one day and
money for food and to help with home bills.
met a friend there. She told me there was a tourism
Over the years I have noticed that many females company looking for people to work in the bush. She
have low self-esteem. This develops into a feeling that didn’t know who they were or what the job was but
they can’t do something because they don’t have the knew how much I loved nature so she thought I might
ability as women. However, it’s important that we find be interested.
our identity and value within society. I believe that
Intrigued by the opportunity, I rushed back to the
education brings opportunity, and this is how we
village to talk to the Chairperson’s office (village
empower more women to find their place in the
leader) who had the information. He wasn’t there,
working environment. Women have a lot of energy,
because he was out tending his cattle, so I sat and
ability, and talent, and we must all realise that what a
waited for hours. I couldn’t get the idea out of my →
man can do, we can do as well.
46
47
head. After a long wait, during which I sat dreaming Asilia offered everyone access to an online training
of what might lie ahead, he finally returned and said programme for the hospitality and tourism industry
yes, there was an opportunity for five people and they and I spent a lot of time using this to upskill. On my
were leaving for Arusha in a few hours’ time. As they days off, I learned to drive the safari vehicles. When
only had four people there was a space and it was there was an in-house advertisement for guide
mine if I wanted it. I was so excited. I rushed home to training, I jumped at it.
pack a bag and at 3am we left for an overnight
After the interview process, I was selected and sent
journey to the city. I still wasn’t actually sure what the
for a month’s training. On completion of this I was
opportunity was, but it was potential work in nature,
placed with a senior guide for a full year to train,
so I was very excited.
learning in the bush. This was an incredible
Our group arrived and were told it was an interview. experience and later I was so proud to return to
There were five of us, four men and one female, and Dunia Camp as a guide myself.
one of us would get a scholarship to train to work in
My career with Asilia really has been life-changing in
the tourism industry. The interview seemed to go well,
more ways that one. One of the company benefits is
and we all returned back to the village to await the
healthcare for you and your family. My mother
news as to who was successful. My grandmother saw
became very sick and that healthcare saved her life.
how important this was to me and performed a
As you can imagine she is very proud of my work and
blessing, spitting into her palms before taking my
has become a big advocate for protecting the
hands to wish me good fortune. The next morning, I
natural resources we have that attracts visitors.
found out I was the successful candidate.
49
The cost of
conservation
While protecting natural ecosystems holds a certain idealistic
appeal, it also requires substantial investment, so clarifying the
cost and sources of funding is vital.
For most tourists visiting wildlife areas, the obvious representation
of the cost of conservation is a ranger at the entrance gate. They
are vital to manage the wildlife and protect the people visiting, but
the infrastructure around them is so much more costly than simply
putting their boots on the ground.
Balancing the books isn’t easy. The truth is that despite the popularity of Africa’s
wildlife with visitors from around the world, they are rarely balanced. There simply
isn’t enough money flowing in to ensure it can pay for everything needed. For
example, most WMAs in Tanzania don’t generate enough to cover their operating
costs, let alone finance future development plans. Wildlife zones – whether large
or small – must have a commercial value to the communities around them. It’s
this value that keeps them in existence, and ultimately will ensure their survival.
Her family feels the financial benefit of her efforts in their everyday lives and
therefore the protection of the environment is now personal to them. A wildlife
guardian at work but mum at home, she is passing on her love of the
environment to her children while having the opportunity to fund their education.
Lomnyaki explains the job is sometimes difficult because they lack equipment.
“We don’t have enough binoculars, rifles, or vehicles,” he says. “There is never
enough funding for protection.”
In isolation, tourism revenue cannot fill all these funding gaps. Greater
investment is needed to make the progress already made more sustainable.
Nawiri partner, Carbon Tanzania, recognise the need to divert more money into
these large landscapes. “Carbon for conservation projects are so impactful,” they
say. “They drive economic benefit to people in rural areas, and therefore help to
protect the natural ecosystems” →
53
Other approaches are aimed at advancing
community resilience by diversifying incomes. These
facilitate educational opportunities, entrepreneurial
training, or support building up micro enterprises.
Each one helps to shift the direction of rural income,
taking pressure off the land and an over-reliance on
the tourism dollar.
Originating from the 1997 Kyoto Protocol, carbon credits were envisioned as
market-driven solutions for climate change, trading saved or removed CO2
emissions. However, their effectiveness remains debated. The integrity of carbon
projects, from reforestation to renewable energy, faces scrutiny for transparency
and real environmental impact.
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N AW I R I PA RT N E R
Carbon Tanzania
Carbon Tanzania is a social enterprise specialising in linking
forest conservation with community upliftment in Tanzania. They
operate by producing nature-based carbon credits, enabling local
communities to monetise the preservation of their landscapes. This
innovative approach benefits not just the Tanzanian economy, but
also supports global climate and wildlife conservation efforts.
In 2022, Carbon Tanzania expanded its reach, notably with the Ruvuma
Wilderness Project in southern Tanzania. This initiative protects extensive
miombo woodlands, crucial for biodiversity and connecting significant wildlife
reserves across Tanzania and Mozambique. Their Yaeda Eyasi Landscape Project
also stands out, demonstrating the direct impact of carbon revenue on
improving local livelihoods.
The organisation is a key player in the global voluntary carbon market, which is
valued at around $2 billion annually. Through their initiatives, companies and
individuals committed to net-zero carbon strategies can contribute to verified
emission reductions. Carbon Tanzania redistributed nearly $3 million to its
community partners in 2022, delivering a direct financial benefit with
considerable impact for marginalised communities.
Their work is grounded in scientific rigour. Partnerships with global experts ensure
that their carbon credits meet international standards. This strategy is pivotal in
the larger battle against climate change and deforestation, incentivising
communities to value forest preservation over deforestation. Carbon Tanzania’s
approach also includes guiding land use towards sustainable practices. A crucial
aspect of their strategy is working with local communities and government to
foster support for forest conservation.
61
Books aren’t
enough
Education is known to have a strong positive impact on the
standard of living of individuals and their communities; in rural
areas of Kenya and Tanzania this has never been more important.
33
In a narrow office at Mahuninga Primary School, on and access to services such as electricity and water is
the edge of Ruaha National Park, we sit with all too evident. The project primarily focuses on
headteacher Petro Simu to discuss the challenges he enhancing basic facilities, providing teaching
and his colleagues face. The walls of the office are materials, offering training, and granting
covered with educational posters and charts. One scholarships to bright children.
phrase leaps out: Teachers make all professions
The Tanzanian educational structure starts with two
possible. It’s just five words, but it sums up the
years of pre-primary schooling, followed by seven
importance of education with precise clarity.
years of compulsory primary education. Children
Access to education in Kenya and Tanzania has been then move onto secondary education which is
significantly improved in recent years. It’s importance divided into four compulsory years at Ordinary Level,
in driving social and economic development forward followed by two years of Advanced Level. Beyond this
is widely recognised throughout East Africa, and there level, students may enter vocational training or study
is a genuine desire to see children enrolled at school. for a university degree.
However, there remains a distinct divide in the
Primary education is free, but the schools rely on
educational quality between urban and rural areas.
parents and the community to fund supplies, building
Alongside our partner, the Kamitei Foundation, we maintenance, and other associated costs. Many rural
have undertaken a project to improve education schools lack teaching and learning materials,
opportunities for children in rural schools bordering including curriculum books and other materials used
National Parks and key wilderness ecosystems. Here, as teaching aids. International book donation
the distinct rural/urban educational disparity is schemes are often well meaning but misguided.
influenced by living standards. Differences in income, Often the books provided are out of date or depict
64
Western people and lifestyles unrelatable to the
students. What schools need are textbooks designed
for their curriculum as an essential resource to
facilitate effective learning.
65
“We have so many students and the numbers are To address this, Kamitei also provides individual
growing,” he explains. “What we need are desks; scholarships to children spanning a number of years to
ensuring the quality of education is high is a challenge ensure that the education leads to a point, like the
when classrooms are overcrowded and children are completion of a secondary vocational degree, so the
sitting on the floor, or we have four students crowded individual has good job prospects.
onto each desk. One of our classrooms is falling down,
In Kenya, the new Wildlife Tourism College of the Maasai
meaning that more children are squeezed into the
Mara (WTC) has opened its doors to its first students. The
remaining one,” he adds.
WTC is the successor of the very successful Koyiaki
Part of Kamitei’s focus is to improve the unfinished Guiding School, famed for training world-class safari
classrooms that lack essential infrastructure like proper guides. However, there was a need to diversify skills and
floors, windows, and doors. Their aim is to transform offer new courses beyond the scope of what the Guiding
incomplete classrooms into fully equipped spaces that School was able to deliver.
can support effective teaching and learning.
Now, on the smart, new campus, students are pursuing
Of course, in all this, teachers are key. The various academic programmes, including tour guiding,
recommended pupil-to-teacher ratio in primary schools front office, housekeeping, food and beverage services,
is 45:1, but in many of the rural schools this can reach environmental management, and wildlife management.
100:1. A lack of available trained teachers is The college also has an on-site hub for researchers in the
compounded by poor transport and insufficient teacher heart of one of the most important wildlife areas in the
housing. This is an area Kamitei are facing head on, world and this is attracting participants from
providing funded voluntary teacher courses that train international universities.
participants in modern teaching methods, including how
College principle, Morris Nabaala, brings 20-years of
to use materials and teaching aids, and how to
experience to overseeing the academic programs.
communicate well with students in the classroom.
“Education opens the door of opportunity and enlightens
Leonce Burra is a volunteer teacher at Kilimatembo people,” he enthuses. “We’ve looked at where there are
Primary School in Tanzania, who participated in the demands for employment locally and found most jobs
teacher training. “I learnt a lot of new skills on how to were going to communities outside the Mara region,
make lessons engaging,” he said. due to skill shortages.”
“We also learned teacher-student interaction skills, and “We needed to look at what other jobs, outside of
how to use the teaching resources to deliver the lessons guiding, graduates could do and devise programmes to
in a creative way. It all increased my confidence, and in meet those needs. For example, in addition to guides,
the future, I’d like to learn further skills to develop my tourism employers have expressed a requirement for
teaching career.” graduates trained as front office staff, so we now run a
hospitality management course,” Morris adds.
Educational continuity in rural villages is often
hampered by economic constraints. Although secondary The long-term benefits of improved education will
school fees have been abolished, indirect costs remain a further enable communities to benefit from the natural
significant barrier for many low-income families. As a resources they live close to, run ongoing projects, or
result children, particularly in these rural areas, make informed decisions on how to protect the
frequently transition to agricultural or livestock work environment sustainably for the good of all. In
post-primary school. classrooms across East Africa, there are brilliant young
minds who will be integral to this future. ■
The burden disproportionately affects girls, who are
often expected to take on caretaking responsibilities for
younger siblings, limiting their access to further
IMAGES: Pages 62-65, Pupils of Mahuninga Primary
education. These circumstances highlight the complex
School, Tanzania. Pages 66-67, Mahuninga Primary
interplay between poverty and limited educational
School Headteacher Petro Simu. Page 68, The Wildlife
opportunities in these communities.
Tourism College of the Maasai Mara, Kenya.
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N AW I R I PA RT N E R
Kamitei
Kamitei Foundation
“The Kamitei Foundation aims to improve education opportunities
for children in rural Tanzania. We primarily focus on improving
the academic performance of primary schools through teacher
training and support, school management support, teaching
materials and equipment and granting scholarships. We believe
the benefits of education has a strong positive impact and can
change lives.” — Billy Marandu, Kamitei Foundation Field Officer
71
People and
wildlife thriving
together
In Tanzania, Kenya, and many other African countries,
it’s essential that local communities are at the heart of
the narrative to protect whole ecosystems. We find
out why.
Imagine a scenario where you live on the Kotoine is standing near an empty boma, his blue
edge of a vast wilderness brimming with shuka flapping wildly as he contemplates the answer
to the question: what difference does living in a
wildlife, some of which are the most iconic
wildlife conservancy make to you? There’s a hint of
species on the planet. Each week, people mischief in Kotoine’s reply: “I want to milk the cows
from other countries arrive to see the and the wildlife too.” It’s a half-joke, but the response
animals. The wilderness on your doorstep is neatly captures the intricate balance between
admired and treasured across the world, but community livelihoods and wildlife conservation, a
you live on the breadline, making a living off crucial aspect of sustainable land management in
this part of Kenya.
the land with your cattle or perhaps some
goats and sheep. For Kotoine, and others just like him in the
conservancy, wildlife now has a value. He sees a
Sometimes a lion or a leopard takes one of your reason to protect the land for the animals, and he’s
livestock, or an elephant comes in and destroys your happy that tourists come and enjoy watching the
crop, and you’re powerless to do anything about it. elephants and lions.
You look across at the land and see areas where
“In the conservancy we can get paid for the land, but
there is grass that your livestock could eat, but you’re
can still graze our cattle and sheep,” he says. This is
not allowed to venture there. Your livestock has to be
important, because his pastoral lifestyle is part of his
herded further in the opposite direction, often to
culture, and he needs to do what his family has done
places where the grass is poorer.
for hundreds of years. Kotoine has 200 sheep and
In short, the landscape in your backyard doesn’t 100 cows that need grass, and the managed
benefit you in any way. It doesn’t feed your children grazing within the conservancy allows him controlled
or help educate them. Worst of all, you have no say access to the land but rewards him for allowing the
in how this land is managed or who benefits from the wildlife to flourish.
money you know it generates. How would you feel?
75
Alistair Nicklin, the general manager of the Naboisho Across the border in Tanzania, Randilen WMA
Conservancy, where Kotoine lives and grazes his stretches as far as the eye can see. Outside the
livestock, believes the model is working well. “You can WMA’s management office there is a rocky outcrop
look at parts of the Mara ecosystem where there you can climb for a 360-degree view of the
hasn’t been a conservancy established, and you see landscape. It’s good to stop and realise that every
an escalation of fencing, and a rapid decrease in inch of the visible wilderness here is working for the
biodiversity, overgrazing, erosion, disruption of communities that live nearby.
migratory patterns, and an increase in wildlife,
Wearing a forest green tunic with shiny brass buttons,
human conflict,” he explains.
Meshurie Melembeki, manager of Randilen WMA,
“If you’re in an area where there is a community that ushers us into his office to talk about their efforts to
can benefit from being in a conservation zone, then create a sustainable future for wildlife and people.
absolutely you need to involve them.” He is forthright in his thoughts on the differences
between past and present. “The Colonial era left us
Of course, tourism alone cannot generate enough
with fortress conservation models, but these have
income for everyone in a community, which is why in
failed,” he says. “The community were excluded and
Kenya, the Maa Trust was created to increase the
couldn’t benefit from the land.”
benefits that go back to families. “In our social
enterprises, such as the Maa Beadwork, we measure Randilen has contracts with five different tourism
success not only by how much money the ladies earn, companies, all operating lodges inside the WMA. The
but also the impact these earnings have on their money generated after tax is split equally between
lives,” said Rose Sairowua, the trusts Beadwork Field Randilen member villages and the general
Operation Supervisor. management of the WMA. “We need to see a big
76
shift towards community-based conservation, and it
is good this is starting now,” continues Meshurie. “We
now have 500,000 people engaged with
community conservation via WMAs in Tanzania,
bringing employment and opportunity.”
77
building classrooms, water infrastructure, or
dispensaries,” he explains. “Any community adjacent to
a wild area must be the guardian of it, but it can’t do
that if there are no rewards. A few rangers can’t patrol
and protect a wide area, but once the community
become the eyes and ears of a place, it can work.”
HoneyGuide
“Our Vision is that communities and wildlife benefit from
each other’s existence and thrive for generations. Investing in
building strong governance and management on locally owned
conservation areas will have a significant impact in the future of
people and wildlife.” — Sam Shaba, Programs Manager.
Over the next five years, with the support of the Nawiri Foundation the
organisation aims to broaden its impact, supporting over ten WMAs across
Tanzania, covering a vast area of critical ecosystems. This expansion is founded
on the lessons learned from existing WMAs, with the intention of replicating their
success on a national scale.
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N AW I R I PA RT N E R
Maa Trust
“We support communities in the Maasai Mara by promoting small
business startups and microfinance schemes, enabling them to
make their own money and to invest in their family’s development.
In our social enterprise, Maa Beadwork we measure the success of
the project not only on how much money the ladies earn, but also
the impact these earnings have on their lives.” — Rose Sairowua
Maa Beadwork Field Operation Supervisor
The Maa Trust works in three thematic areas, prioritised by Maasai communities;
education and skills, water and health, and sustainable livelihoods. The Maa
Trust works together with local communities to support them in their projects to
innovate and work towards sustainable development. ■
82
83
The Silicon
Savannah
In the Maasai Mara, a technological revolution is unfolding within
conservation, redefining the way we assess and manage data.
Technological innovation is changing the face of EarthRanger. This tool enables the team to track
wildlife and landscape protection across Kenya and elephant movement, monitor habitats, and understand
Tanzania. Advances in tools like machine learning, the nuances of human-elephant coexistence.
acoustic sensors, and satellite remote sensing are EarthRanger consolidates diverse data streams into a
revolutionising our understanding and protection of comprehensive overview, generating a wealth of
vast wilderness areas. They both enhance data information for analysis.
collection and accelerate its analysis, offering deeper
To effectively process this data, MEP has developed
insights into ecological dynamics.
EcoScope, an open-source analysis module for
At the forefront of this transformation is the Mara EarthRanger. EcoScope significantly streamlines the
Elephant Project (MEP). Established in 2011, MEP analysis of ecological data, facilitating quick
operates in the Greater Mara Ecosystem, a generation of reports and insights that were previously
partnership that includes the Government of Kenya, unattainable without extensive manual effort. Wilson
Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), Wildlife Research and Sairowua, MEP’s Conservation Manager and a native
Training Institute (WRTI), and various community of the Maasai Mara, oversees the tracking of collared
conservancies. Their mission is to employ cutting- elephants and the management of this data. “The
edge technology for more effective elephant technology empowers us to monitor our field
conservation and habitat protection. MEP’s journey operations more accurately, ensuring both the
from traditional conservation methods to embracing protection of wildlife and the efficiency of our teams,”
modern technology exemplifies a broader shift in Wilson explains.
safeguarding Africa’s wildlife.
“We can then evaluate and analyse that information
“Technology is pivotal in conservation, especially in its and use it to protect both the wildlife and the people
capacity to gather and interpret data about wildlife, within the Greater Mara Ecosystem. This data-driven
habitats, and the social dynamics within these conservation allows us to use science to inform
environments,” notes Dr Jake Wells, Director of actions on the ground in a meaningful and more
Research and Conservation at MEP. “Data-driven efficient way.”
methods are transforming how we address
The application of Artificial Intelligence (AI) is
conservation challenges, enhancing both our
currently stirring global debate, with significant
understanding and operational efficiency,” he adds.
implications for conservation research. AI accelerates
MEP harnesses Geographic Information System (GIS) data analysis and reveals patterns beyond human
technology through a software platform called detection, proving indispensable real-time wildlife →
84
86
protection. Its ability to rapidly process vast datasets able to use acoustic recording to create a more
is pivotal in conservation, where timely responses to comprehensive view of biodiversity than is otherwise
threats like poaching, habitat loss, or human possible in any other way.”
encroachment are critical.
Satellite remote sensing, a tool that once only
MEP’s innovative use of AI includes employing operated in the realms of space exploration, has
geo-fences to mitigate human-wildlife conflict. These found a new calling in the service of conservation.
virtual boundaries, set around farmlands and Satellites orbiting high above the African continent
communities, trigger alerts when collared elephants provide a bird’s-eye view of the ever-changing
breach them, enabling prompt on-ground landscapes. Conservationists leverage this
intervention to guide the elephants back to safety. technology to monitor deforestation, habitat
degradation, and even track the movements of
Another notable initiative is ElephantBook, MEP’s
wildlife across vast expanses.
in-house developed software that utilises machine
learning to identify individual elephants. By analysing In the context of Kenya and Tanzania, where
unique features such as tusk size and ear shape, ecosystems are delicately balanced, satellite remote
ElephantBook enhances monitoring efficiency and sensing becomes a vital tool in identifying areas
enriches data crucial for understanding elephant under stress and formulating targeted conservation
populations. The MEP team has successfully identified strategies to solve the issues.
1,500 out of the 2,600 elephants in the greater Mara
area using this technology.
87
The lifeblood
of the Maasai
Recognising the importance of cattle, and finding solutions to
manage grazing so that it still allows for a traditional way of life,
has to be central to long term conservation plans if communities
are to embrace them.
90
Dust rises as a lean herd of cattle emerges it less productive and more sensitive to changing
from the scrub. A teenage boy walks weather patterns.
in silence behind them clad in a bright In areas such as the Usangu Wetlands of Ruaha, in
red Shuka cloth in vivid contrast to the Southern Tanzania, cattle grazing was a significant
surrounding pale-yellow grasses. The road contributor to the drying up of the Great Ruaha River,
creating a water crisis that had ramifications for the
is full of cows now, but it’s a tiny number in
whole country. The impact of increasing cattle
comparison to the mind-boggling amount numbers on ecologically sensitive landscapes is
that are managed in Tanzania and Kenya. considerable, making it a critical factor in
Here in Tanzania the figure is around 33 conservation planning.
million, and in Kenya it’s slightly less, but However, livestock still needs grassland, and moving
still significant at over 21 million. Of course, herds outside protected areas creates a new issue of
there are also vast numbers of other animals illegal grazing. Herds are moved over many
too, not least millions of sheep and goats, all kilometres daily, into areas where grazing is banned.
needing grass to feed on. This creates topographical changes, creating paths,
and reduces the quantity and quality of food
The young herdsman pauses, casting a reproachful available for wildlife, with a knock-on effect for the
scowl in our direction as he gently chides his cattle to whole food chain. The effect of cattle grazing on wild
navigate around our vehicle, a temporary disruption herbivores differs between species, but many will
in the herd’s procession. Cattle are not merely avoid areas recently grazed by cattle.
livestock in this realm; they’re the lifeblood of the
Maasai culture, integral to identity and survival. For Cattle are not merely livestock in
the Maasai they are a cornerstone of cultural identity,
wealth, and sustenance, deeply intertwined with their
this realm. They’re the lifeblood of
pastoral way of life. the Maasai culture.
In recent decades, the Maasai’s pastoral existence
A model found in several of the Wildlife Management
has come under threat. The rising human population,
Areas (WMA) in Tanzania, and Conservancies in
climate change, and land use conflicts have
Kenya, is to allow managed grazing. The Mara North
upended the delicate equilibrium of the Maasai’s
Conservancy’s rotational grazing system, overseen by
pastoral heritage and the health of the ecosystem.
Grazing Manager Raphael Kereto (pictured top left),
Cattle represent the fundamental Maasai currency,
is an exemplar of a sustainable approach that
sold and bartered for all sorts of goods and services.
supports both the ecosystem and the Maasai’s
Families build up large herds as a demonstration of
pastoral practices.
wealth and status.
“In the rotational grazing system of Mara North
What were once traditional grazing lands have been
Conservancy, the cattle are moved between blocks of
converted for agriculture or set aside as wildlife
around ten square kilometres,” Raphael explains. “We
conservation areas and National Parks, leaving the
also designate cattle-free zones within the
Maasai displaced from large stretches of land with a
conservancy. Since managing grazing this way we’ve
smaller space for their herds. With little room to roam,
not lost cattle to drought, and they are fetching more
the issue has been further compounded by drought,
money at market as they are healthier. They aren’t
leading to devastating cattle losses.
being walked long distances to graze each day and
Overgrazing, amplified by the expanding Maasai we can provide access to medicine.”
population, has a significant consequence as the
Unfortunately, with the value and health of the cattle
land reaches its ecological capacity. This weakens the
increasing, this then results in a new issue; more
capacity of soil to store nutrients and carbon, making
cattle. “Our main challenge now is managing →
91
numbers; the farmers are resistant to reducing the
number of livestock” Raphael adds. “Of course, as
families earn money from other revenue sources, a
lot of that is also converted into more cattle.”
The evening sky is transitioning rapidly from azure In 1993, the Great Ruaha River ran dry for the first time
blue to deep purple, leaving us in darkness with the in known history. This catastrophe was caused by
sounds of hidden wildlife all around. We pull our human activity within the Usangu wetlands. Once rich
vehicle over to the side of the track, and using the in wildlife, the area was unrecognisable. Rice farms
light from its headlights, attach a camera to the trunk with their thirsty requirements, fed by unmanaged
of a tree, positioning it so it looks out on a clearing water trenches were drying out the wetlands. This was
with a small pool of water at its centre. This is a compounded by intense grazing, with cattle tramping
perfect place to discover what animals are moving the ground and removing grass cover, which in turn
under cover of darkness. increased evaporation of the remaining water. The
hydroelectric turbines stopped turning, reducing the
We’re in Usangu Game Reserve, Tanzania. Our
electricity needed for economic development. To
knowledgeable Asilia guide, Fadili Sinang’o explains
counter the problems, the Tanzanian Government
that a full biodiversity audit has been carried out and
expanded Ruaha National Park to include the 6,000
as things stand, we’re looking at an amazing success
square kilometre wetland wilderness.
story for an area that not that long ago was an
ecosystem on the brink of collapse. Our camera trap This was not without controversy because annexing
set, we head back to camp, wondering what Usangu meant displacing people. There were 27
creatures we might record overnight. villages relocated, and the communities from the 31
further villages along the outskirts of the park were
The Greater Ruaha Ecosystem in Tanzania is a vast
banned from entering the land that was once the
region, encompassing approximately 50,000
resource they lived off. Livestock grazing, fishing,
square kilometres and is home to over 10 percent of
hunting, farming and wood gathering were all
Africa’s lions. We’re in the Usangu Wetlands area, a
forbidden under new rules. Understandably,
relatively new addition to Ruaha National Park,
community feelings ran high.
following its inclusion in 2006.
Sheila Makindara, Head of Community at Six Rivers,
An old and often abused hunting block, the Usangu
leads a transformative initiative to enhance local
wetlands feed into river systems crucial to the whole
livelihoods, by addressing challenges faced by
country. These remote watery plains, at the heart of
displaced communities. “There is a lot of confusion,
which sits the Ihefu Swamp are the source of the Great
especially amongst the older villagers,” she explains.
Ruaha River. This is the lifeblood for huge areas of the
“They don’t understand why they are no longer able to
country; not least because its two hydroelectric dams
enter the park and use its resources.” →
generate about 50 percent of Tanzania’s electricity.
95
“These are very poor rural people, without electricity younger generation is more open, with many
or the means to buy other fuel. All their cooking is embracing the opportunities that tourism in the park
done over woodfires, but now they’re struggling to is opening up. A partnership created between Asilia,
gather enough fuel to meet their basic needs. They Tanzania National Parks Authority (TANAPA), and the
look into the park and see it just lying there, so ask Tanzania Wildlife Research Institute was the start of
what is the harm of going into the park to pick up the the region’s recovery. In 2021 Asilia Africa approached
wood that will otherwise be left?” the community looking for people who were keen to
train for roles at a new camp.
“The problem is the sheer number of people. One
person picking up firewood doesn’t have an impact, Zubery Ngalawa is one of the young team at Usangu
but there would be 600 people or more and it isn’t Camp, a housekeeper with obvious pride in his work.
sustainable. It has to be an all or nothing approach,” “At first people in the village were unhappy with me
Sheila continues. and I was threatened when they found out I would be
working in the park. Many thought I was training to
To change the narrative, solutions need to found, and
be a ranger so didn’t trust me, and there are still
this includes finding alternative energy sources and
people who earn a lot from poaching because you
improving income so the local communities can
can get a good money from just a few hours of illegal
afford to buy it. Right now, they feel it’s all about
fishing. When things escalated, my house was burnt
wildlife and people don’t matter. “Our work is to find
down, showing the anger of the older generation
a balance for both because ultimately this will be the
towards their exclusion from the park.”
only way to protect the ecosystem,” she concludes.
For Zubery things have since improved. His family
While the feelings of the people who live in the villages
now see the benefits because of his income, are
bordering the park are still mixed, the outlook of the
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proud of him and talk to others about the
importance of wildlife and tourism. “There are still a
lot of people who don’t understand,” he adds.
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Six Rivers Africa, funded by Sir Jim Ratcliffe, has have lifted and shifted that approach onto new areas.
made a large financial commitment to southern Everything we are doing now stems from Usangu,”
Tanzania and is working together with Asilia on adds Brandon Kemp. “There were a lot of learnings,
protecting this remote wilderness. “Embracing the some positives, but of course also some negatives.
community clearly is critical. They need a vision; a This has helped us refine and advance what we are
successful national park with lots of tourists and jobs,” doing. It’s definitely not perfect but we’ve significantly
says Sir Jim Ratcliffe. improved our approach.”
Brandon Kemp, Founder of Six Rivers Africa, has been “These learnings have played a significant role in a
involved in the Usangu Wetlands story since the start. new study in Nyerere National Park. We are using 150
He knows that for this ecosystem to thrive, it needs to camera traps now, which is almost double the
have a greater value. “In Tanzania, if the land can’t number we used in Usangu. Instead of netting fish,
add value, it will disappear and take on another form we are using eDNA to study aquatic life and working
of revenue generation. This could be agriculture. We with acoustic recorders, then using software to
want to avoid this and make these parts of the parks identify the calls that are being made.”
valuable to the country,” he explains.
“Down the road, we feel that biodiversity accreditation
“When I first visited Usangu it felt very different. It was will be important. Although currently carbon
full of poachers and cattle despite being part of the offsetting is the main player, we do foresee this
National Park, but its potential was clear. Monitoring moving towards biodiversity credits. What we are
such a vast area with no roads or infrastructure was doing now will allow us to understand what
impossible, so the land and its wildlife was being biodiversity is there and monitor our progress of
abused,” he continues. “In order to understand these protecting these ecosystems. The ultimate goal for us
vast wilderness areas, we needed a biodiversity study is getting these areas of land generating enough
to work out the health of the eco-system and find out revenue so that the government sees it as a
what lived there.” worthwhile income source and dedicates attention
and funding to protecting it.”
“We started our research through the use of camera
traps, with 60 places through the bush covering 120 The progress made, despite the difficulties of the
kilometres,” Brandon explained. past are heartening. There are clearly challenges
ahead to ensure that communities prosper, but the
“We left them out for three months, collecting a huge
improvement in biodiversity and the landscape itself
number of data points that needed analysing. We
is a big step along the road.
found that every species that occurred on the Ruaha
mammal list were present in the Usangu Game At camp, we sit to review our camera trap images
Reserve, plus a small antelope that hadn’t been from the night before. First of all, an elephant, eyes
recorded in this area before. We continued our glowing white, looks towards the lens, then in the
survey looking at fish in the river and placing small frame is the familiar sight of two dik-dik stopping by
mammal traps.” to drink. The final shot reveals something different, a
slim cat-like animal with what looks like a Zorro mask
Now visitors to the park participate in the ongoing
across its eyes. It’s a secretive genet, a good capture
camera trap studies. “These aren’t just to create a
data wise, highlighting the diversity of rarer wildlife in
nice story for guests,” reveals camp manager,
the region. As visitors we feel we’ve played a part in
David Msuya. “It helps us build up a bigger picture
the ongoing research that is helping to put this
and monitor the success of what we are doing.
ecosystem back on its feet. ■
Unlike other many National Parks, this area is
relatively unknown, and we don’t know all the
wildlife that’s here.”
IMAGES: Page 94, Usangu guide Fadili Sinang’o setting a
The Usangu Wetlands is a success story, that shows camera trap. Page 96, a genet caught on the camera trap
what could be rolled out in other areas. “We’ve taken pictured. Page 97, Fadili Sinang’o logging data of wildlife seen
what we did in Usangu as proof of concept, and we on a morning game drive. Opposite, the Usangu wetlands.
99
N AW I R I PA RT N E R
Six Rivers Africa, an arm of the Six Rivers Foundation, is at the forefront of
Tanzania’s conservation efforts, targeting the nation’s southern wilderness. The
initiative’s strategy weaves together scientific research and community
engagement to address the complex challenges of biodiversity conservation.
Six Rivers focus is within National Park areas, primarily Ruaha National Park and
Nyerere National Park, partnering with governmental organisations in the
research and development of these critical ecosystems.
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Innovating for
Co-Existence
Saving both elephants and livelihoods with simple solutions requires
constant invention. Elephants are smart but a bright young team in
Tanzania is busy innovating to find sustainable ways to help rural
farmers living on the edge of protected areas safeguard their crops.
On the outskirts of a remote Tanzanian village, two festers, then communities start looking at killing
farmers squat at the side of a maize field. One elephants as a solution to the problems they are
scoops up dirt; small chips of rock tumbling from his facing. Key to any long-term conservation solutions is
hand as he carefully places a handful of the warm supporting a peaceful co-existence between wildlife
soil onto a piece of paper spread before him by the and people.
other. A plastic bag is split open, and a generous
Our demonstration isn’t quite over. Despite a strong,
amount of hot red chili powder is poured out, then
hot wind that’s causing small dust tornadoes to whirl
mixed into the soil. Finally, a foil packet containing a
around the fields, they want us to see and hear the
condom is revealed as the unlikeliest component in
effect of the Chili Cracker, so a huddle is made
the construction. Gently unfurling it, they embark on
against the breeze, the fuse is lit and suddenly it’s
the delicate operation of stuffing it with the pungent
arcing across the sky towards imaginary elephants.
soil-chili mixture, before adding a small firecracker
With a loud and sharp crack, the Chili Cracker
and tying the top, leaving its fuse protruding. As the
explodes, its contents carried on the wind. Naturally,
contraption is held up, a broad smile crosses both
neither sound or smell is welcome to an elephant,
their faces. This simple device, a Chili Cracker, will
and as long as you’ve chosen your position correctly
help him keep their crops safe.
for the prevailing wind, the result should be
A farmer can lose several acres of crops in a single elephants moving off the crops. There is ingenuity to
night if elephants invade a farm. Crop destruction these low-tech but clever methods of crop
can be devastating for rural communities relying on protection. Importantly, they can safely deter
farming for their livelihood. elephants allowing farmers to preserve their crops
without harming wildlife.
As human settlements spread, and crop production
increases to support a rapidly growing population, Lemuta Meng’oru is a young Tanzanian who, as a
agriculture encroaches further on elephant habitats, farmer, came into conflict with elephants and has
bringing with it increased contact and conflict. With experienced first-hand the destruction a hungry
their livelihoods at stake, negativity towards animal can inflict on a crop. He now works for
elephants and the protected areas they inhabit Honeyguide, a non-profit NGO committed to →
103
developing sustainable enterprises within community Lemuta is quick to establish that first and foremost, it
protected areas of northern Tanzania. As a Human is essential to understand elephant behaviour, before
Wildlife Conflict Officer, it’s his job to look at deploying any of the tools they have developed as
strategies to prevent crop destruction, using methods part of the kit. “We teach people about elephants so
that are accessible in small rural villages. they can use the tools safely. For example, we tell
them that they need to pay attention to things like
He talks knowledgeably about the Human-Elephant
wind direction before they start using the toolkit. We
Conflict (HEC) Toolkit that he and his team have
stress the importance of respecting the elephants to
been developing. The words ‘Innovation’ are written
help avoid dangerous interactions. Simple things
large on the wall behind one of the desks at their
such as staying quiet until you know their location
headquarters in Arusha. Innovation is the byword for
makes a big difference to human safety.”
their work. Keep thinking, experimenting, and
educating the farmers so they can reduce any The toolkit itself is purposely low-tech. “We start off
potential conflict, ensuring both human and by looking at what the villagers are using already
elephant can coexist peacefully. and then consider how we can improve the efficiency
of what they are already doing. There is no point in us
The toolkit needs to use methods and technology that
developing solutions that aren’t quick and efficient to
are accessible in remote farming villages, can keep
use, or that require significant investment such as the
the humans implementing them safe, and remain
use of drones. We look to address the challenge of
effective over time. It’s perhaps the latter which is the
human-elephant conflict through constant
most challenging; elephants are clever quickly
adaptation and by teaching an understanding of
become desensitised to some of the tactics deployed,
elephant behavior to ensure coexistence. Our toolkit
requiring constant innovation and invention.
offers simple but effective solutions.”
104
On talking to farmers, the Honeyguide team
discovered that torchlight was traditionally the first
line of defence, along with noise; either shouting or
banging pans. “We took these ideas, talked at length
to farmers, and thought about how to make them
more effective,” said Lemutu.
105
106
107
He shows us a new bell alarm prototype, nestling it in
the handmade sling and demonstrates how it can be
thrown further than the current box model. “We’ll
keep refining it and when it is ready, we’ll bring it to
the community for testing. Then once it’s in use, we’ll
start looking for the next idea.”
2
3
7
Exploring the conflict tool kit ...
1. Elephants mainly crop-raid at night, and many farmers were
found to be using a cheap flashlight as a basic deterrent with
marginal success. The light source was not bright enough in
these torches, the light beam reaching perhaps 20m, and
insufficient to scare the elephants away.
2. On testing it was found that new LED torches were far more
effective. The strobe function is particularly effective.
Elephants do not like flashing lights and quickly move away
from them; the beam reach of this model is circa 900m while
waterproofing adds to the durability of the torch.
111
Keeping
The Peace
Meet the men and women protecting both
communities and wildlife in the hinterland
between where protected wilderness ends and
human habitation begins.
The darkness of pre-dawn transitions into the clarity of daybreak as a dusky pink
sky hangs over the bush surrounding a small village in Southern Tanzania. A
solitary figure stands quietly surveying the terrain, and in the shadow of a large
tree he crouches by a dusty track to an examine a single spoor among the
wind-blown leaves and animal tracks, before mentally mapping what might have
happened under the cover of night.
He’s a Lion Defender, and it’s his job to know whether a predator has passed
through the area and if it’s a threat to local livestock. His name is Darem, and
he’s no stranger to tracking the movement of lions. He once killed one as a
young Barabaig warrior in a show of strength and virility, part of an ancient
tradition among the males of his village. He’s not proud of it now and talks softly,
almost bashfully, about his time as a wildlife poacher.
Aged 17, he drove his spear into a lion for the prestige; it was a way of life. Wildlife
was regarded as nothing more than a commodity as he crept into the National
Park to kill elephants and buffalos, while also leading lion hunts. His attitude
changed in 2012 when he joined a new Lion Defenders programme run by the
Ruaha Carnivore Project (now called Lion Landscapes).
It was known that traditional killing was having a substantial impact around
Ruaha National Park in Tanzania, where dozens of lions were being killed in a
single year. Warriors claiming the first spear would receive gifts of cattle from the
community, which was a way to build status. To address the situation, Lion
Landscapes developed a programme that gave young men like Darem, the
opportunity to fulfil a traditional warrior role, while receiving financial benefits.
Now, instead of killing wildlife, they are its protectors in a true poacher-turned-
gamekeeper role reversal. →
Darem’s day starts at 6am as he heads out into the revenge on the offending lions. Heading out on foot,
bush before the pastoralists take their cattle out to he spotted the lethal trap, and could see five lions
graze. Typically, he’ll be looking for tracks, but also hungrily circling. As he chased them off for their own
has wider intelligence to work from. Lions are often safety, he felt a profound purpose in his role,
picked up on camera traps placed in the bush that protecting both lions and people.
surrounds the villages, and some animals have been
His story is echoed by another Lion Defender, John
collared. The data is collected and analysed, allowing
Matiasi. A slim and athletic-looking Tanzanian, John
predictions to be made as to where conflict might
used to spend his days sleeping, and his nights
possibly occur.
hunting elephants in the National Park. Now, like
If there are any signs of lions in the area, Darem Daren, he advocates for wildlife, and is a predator
warns the community and, if necessary, physically protector with three years of experience under his belt.
ushers the predators away. Any lion sighting around
Sitting in the shade of a tree, he looks serious as he
the village quickly goes ‘viral’, and even in this
recounts his early struggles. Not long after starting
remote rural village a flurry of texts from mobile
his role he heard news of a lion hunt starting after a
phone to mobile phone quickly spreads the word as
lion taking livestock had roused a group into seeking
Darem rushes to the sighting to ensure the safety of
a retaliatory killing. Approaching the men, he was
both humans and lion.
warned to back off, and told not to call for
After his morning patrol is complete, he will head reinforcements. Despite the obvious tension and
back into the village to help reinforce the livestock potential conflict, he enlisted help and stopped the
enclosures, known as bomas. Research by Lion hunt, but his intervention came at a price. Later, he
Landscapes showed that 65% of carnivore attacks was beaten for sharing the information. Admirably,
occurred within poorly protected livestock he has no regrets about his actions and now enjoys
enclosures, so fortifying these traditional thornbush the status that being a Lion Defender brings; as well
corrals offers essential support to the pastoralists. If as the opportunity to earn a wage.
any livestock has become separated from its herd,
There are a number of different employment roles
Darem will also head out in search of the strays,
that have been created in the village, all slightly
rounding them up and making sure they’re returned
different but all achieving the same purpose. They
to the right farmer.
allow local villagers a way of generating an income
from the wildlife, while at the same time protecting
The warrior who first spears a lion the income of pastoralists and farmers.
on a hunt is rewarded with gifts of Traditional warriors who have never gone to school,
cattle from the community and an but who are skilled trackers can use their local
generational knowledge to conserve wildlife. The
elevated status. long-term conservation of lions and other carnivores
can only be achieved when the people who live
Darem’s pride in his work is evident, he says that alongside the wildlife, sharing the same landscape,
while people will still kill lions, he feels better knowing are involved in the process, and programs such as
his effort helps prevent this. He doesn’t want to see the Lion Defenders helps achieve this.
carnivores disappear and now feels a connection
In this area there are now 18 Lion Defenders
with them.
employed, covering at least 80% of village land, to
His face, etched with the lines of experience, is help respond to events, reduce hostility and the
animated as he recounts his journey as a protector likelihood of lethal retaliation. →
of the wild. As he weaves tales of lions saved, one
incident stands tall in his memory. Late one night he
heard that a cow had been predated and there was LEFT: Lion Defender Darem Philipo is proud of the
a plan to poison the carcass and wreak deadly work he does protecting the community.
115
Lion Landscapes Director of Conservation
Programmes, Benjee Cascio, is understandably
upbeat on how their activities have had a huge
impact on the ground. Their data backs up his
optimism and there’s a stark difference between the
early days of the program and the situation now. For
example, during the early 2010s when the concept
was just starting, there were over 50 carnivore
mortalities in a small area, but in 2023 this has been
reduced to just 10 in an area over five times as large.
To the left you can see a newer wire boma which was
built as part of a scheme run by Lion Landscapes
that supports the provision of wire enclosures in
areas of high predation. The enclosures are made
with strong diamond-mesh fencing and have been
found to be 95% effective at preventing depredations
at the boma. The household are asked to contribute
25% of the $500 cost and commit to maintaining the
wire enclosure.
Camera Trap Officer
Yohana Mtemisika aged 28, has been a Camera Trap
Officer for two years. The Community Camera Trap
scheme unlocks the value of wildlife for villages
adjacent to Ruaha National Park while supporting
important wildlife research. The scheme involves 16
villages photographing wildlife via camera traps,
earning escalating points for the animals
photographed. A small antelope like a dik dik is
worth a small number of points, while species such as
lion, cheetah or leopard attract a high score. Villages
exchange these points for educational, healthcare or
veterinary benefits, while capturing research data on
wildlife biodiversity.
In 2012, Asilia Africa became a Certified B Corporation, and as of 2023 The Nawiri
Group and its individual travel companies are also B Corp certified. It’s a powerful
framework for change; a marker that says our business is meeting high standards
of social and environmental performance, transparency, and accountability. As
one of the first hospitality/tourism companies in Africa to achieve this, we are
proud of our efforts. For almost two decades, B Corp has been seen as the
benchmark; a tool to encourage the setting of high sustainability targets. We don’t
see it as the bar to reach, but rather the bare minimum a company serious about
making a positive impact should attain.
124
The Impact of Safari
When arriving in Africa you are naturally excited by the experience that lies ahead, but you should
also know you are helping preserve ecosystems, create jobs, and finance vital infrastructure in the
rural areas of the country you’re visiting.
Kenya
The travel and tourism industry
represented 8.1% of the country’s total
Gross Domestic Product (GDP) in 2019
and supported in the region of 1.6 million
tourism related jobs.
Tanzania
Tourism is responsible for approximately
6.2% of total employment in the country
and also provides 100% funding for the
Tanzania National Parks Authority
(Tanapa) who manage all Tanzania’s
1 national parks covering approximately 15%
of the land area.
Asilia Africa
For decades, Asilia Africa has led the industry
in providing immersive safari experiences in
East Africa. Rooted in the Swahili words for
‘authentic’ and ‘genuine’, our name reflects our
commitment to exceptional safari experiences
and our dedication to conservation and
uplifting community.
An Asilia safari extends beyond the luxury of our camps. It represents a commitment
to positive change, powered by responsible tourism. We prioritise responsible
sourcing for our camps, from energy to materials, and are dedicated to investing in
local staff, uplifting communities, and supporting conservation programs.
As a member of the B Corp Certified Nawiri Group, Asilia – itself first B Corp
certified in 2012 - unites responsible travel companies, local communities, and
experts to forge a sustainable and equitable impact across East Africa. The
Group’s mission is to foster environmentally constructive income streams that
benefit both natural ecosystems and their custodians. Asilia’s camps have
consistently achieved the highest attainable levels of sustainability under
Responsible Tourism Tanzania and Ecotourism Kenya certifications, in addition to
numerous other awards.
Choosing Asilia for your safari adventure means more than an unforgettable
experience; it signifies active participation in wildlife conservation and community
initiatives. Together, we work to preserve East Africa’s nature and heritage, and
support the well-being of its people, aiming to make a lasting positive impact on
our planet. ■
128
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Inspired by the potential for
positive impact?
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