Detecting Watermarks

As you get into stamps, you are going to find that many issues of stamps exist
printed on watermarked paper. Not only that, but often the same stamp will
exist with 2 or 3 different watermarks, and the stamps will also exist with the
watermarks inverted, sideways, reversed, sideways inverted and sideways
reversed. In many cases, the differences between these varieties in terms of
value can be significant.

So, it is important to acquire the equipment to be able to detect watermarks

accurately if you are going to collect stamps from the British Commonwealth
early United states before 1920 or most European stamps issued before the
1960's to name just a few. In fact, most countries' early stamps have
watermarks. Canada is one of the few countries whose stamps are generally
not watermarked.

So what are your choices? What means can you use to detect watermarks.
Well, you have four options:

1. Use a black watermark tray and watermark fluid to reveal the

watermark.
2. Use a black watermark tray with no fluid.
3. Use a Morley-Bright ink satchet detector to reveal the watermark.
4. Use a Signoscope unit to illuminate the watermark.

The cost and effectiveness of each of these methods depends on the type of
stamps you are working with. There is no single method that works perfectly
with every type of stamp unfortunately.

Watermark Tray

The classic, most common piece of equipment that most collectors use to
detect watermarks consists of a small black tray about an inch deep, and
hydrocarbon fluid that can soak the stamp to reveal the watermark, without
affecting the ink, or the gum on the stamp, and which will evaporate off the
stamp leaving it dry. Hydrocarbon is recommended because it is non-aqueous,
and will not affect the gum of the stamp. In the past, many collectors have
used lighter fluid or benzene. I do not recommend these for two reasons:

1. Benzene is a known carcinogen that is very easily absorbed through the

skin. Trichlorotrifluoroethane is a much safer alternative and is what is
sold today, like the bottle shown.
2. Benzene and lighter fluid have been known to cause inks on stamps
printed using modern photogravure to run, although they are generally
safe for engraved stamps.

Generally, this method works very well for most stamps issued before the
chalk surfaced papers became widespread in the 1970's. Here is what the tray
looks like with a stamp and the fluid inside it:

As you can see, it shows the watermark up very nicely.

However watermark fluid is expensive now. The 4 ounce bottle that I show
here cost me almost $20 with tax, and it doesn't last very long, especially if
you do not close the cap tightly after use. Many a time I have failed to close
the bottle tightly enough only to come back to an empty bottle a few months
later. So, another option is to use the tray without the fluid, like so:

This isn't nearly as clear, but if your eyesight is good, it isn't bad. You can
identify the watermark clearly and can see that it is upright. It probably won't
be useful for very complex or symmetric watermarks where you need a
perfectly clear view to ascertain that it is not reversed or inverted. But, this
method will work well for most 19th century and early 20th century stamps.

It does not work so well on the chalk surfaced 20th century stamps, because
the fluid will not generally saturate the chalk coating, but will highlight it,
causing it to obscure the watermark.

Morley Bright Detector

This device unfortunately is no longer manufactured, due largely, I think to its
lack of popularity among collectors. Like a lot of devices, one has to know
how to use it properly for it to work, and my belief is that most collectors
simply did not know how to use it properly. It functions on the principal that a
watermark is a thinning of the paper that is extremely minute. The way it
works, is that a sachet of ink is smoothed out so that the ink inside is evenly
distributed. The stamp is placed on a flat surface, the ink sachet is placed on
top of the stamp and gentle pressure is applied. The pressure will cause the
ink to become attracted to the thinner areas where the watermark is, which
will leave a visible pattern in the ink. The secret to using it successfully of
course is to ensure that the ink in the sachet is evenly distributed through the
sachet before you start. If you do not do this, then it won't work very well.
Also, if you crease the sachet through mishandling, that won't work either.

It is the only method that you can use for stamps on cover, and when used
properly, with experience, it works quite well for stamps issued before the
1970's. The main drawback with it is the ink sachets have a limited shelf life
and have to be replaced eventually, and they are no longer manufactured.
However, it is possible to find used ones on the market, and replacement
sachets if you look patiently enough. It will last you a long time if you use it
sparingly for checking stamps on cover only and use a tray for your other
stamps.

Signoscope

The last option and most expensive is also the only one that will really work
for modern post 1970 stamps printed on chalk surfaced paper. The Signoscope
is essentially a unit about a foot long and 8 inches high. It contains a battery
powered light in the body of the unit on the left, a light well on the right, and
a glass block on a hinge and aluminum tray that slides out, like this:

The glass block lifts up. The stamp is placed underneath it, and then this
entire unit slides back into the main unit. The light is switched on, the large
white handle, which is normally pointing out when the unit is open, is pulled
closed toward the unit as shown above. This places pressure on the glass,
which causes the light shining up through the stamp to reveal the watermark,
like this:

A dimmer switch on the left side of the unit allows you to adjust the
brightness of the light until the watermark shows up the most clearly that it
can. As you can see, this isn't really any better on this stamp. However, it is
the only way you will be able to see most watermarks on post 1970 stamps.
The problem is the chalk coating: it generally obscures the watermark. This
unit generally allows you to shine just enough light through the back, that you
can see the watermark.

However, it is very expensive, at around $250 for a unit. It is also not quick to
use because of the setup involved. Even though it is a 2-3 minute set up, it
means that checking 100 stamps would be quite time consuming. So, it is not
recommended, or really necessary of you are only collecting stamps issued
before 1970.