WOODWORKING PROJECT

BUNDLE: ALL ABOUT BEER

WOODWORKING PROJECT
BUNDLE: ALL ABOUT BEER
HOW TO MAKE A WOOD HANDLED BOTTLE OPENER
MAKE A BOTTLE OPENER THAT POPS
HOW TO MAKE A BEER CADDY

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HOW TO MAKE A
WOOD HANDLED
BOTTLE OPENER
By David Munkittrick

PROJECT 1 | PAGES 3 - 8

MAKE A BOTTLE
OPENER THAT POPS
By Paul Mayer

PROJECT 2 | PAGES 9 - 19

HOW TO MAKE A
BEER CADDY
By Paul Mayer

PROJECT 3 | PAGES 20 - 32

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HOW TO MAKE A WOOD HANDLED BOTTLE OPENER

By David Munkittrick

A little prized scrap wood is all it takes to transform a humdrum plastic handled bottle opener
into handcrafted wood handled bottle opener. I found two such bottle openers knocking around
my kitchen. The first had a short, narrow tang with holes. For this style I made a koa handle that
surrounded the tang and extended beyond the end. The second opener was made from a piece of
stamped stainless steel. The handle for this style is simply two thin pieces of figured walnut that
sandwich the metal.

Here’s how I turned a couple relics from a junk drawer into great gifts...

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Out with the old. Just a couple whacks with a hammer usually takes care of the old plastic handles.
You’ll notice there are two styles of opener revealed. One with a narrow tang and holes (top of photo),
the other is a full width metal plate.

Clean up any tarnish with a wire brush in a drill press. Follow up with wet/dry sandpaper starting at 220-
grit and working your way up the grits until you’re satisfied with the appearance. 600-grit leaves a nice,
satin glow on stainless steel.

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Cut your handle stock. Here, I’m resawing a block of figured walnut for the flat handled second opener.
For the tang style opener I cut a pair of 3/8” x 1” x 4” blocks of koa.

Cut a stopped slot in each handle half for the tang style openers. The slot needs to be long enough to
house the tang.

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Test fit your handle blanks. I used the holes in the tang opener as guides to pre-drill the handle halves.
Simply hold the tang in the slot of one of the handle halves. Line up the holes with the bit on your drill
press and drill the holes through. Repeat the process for the second half of the handle. The flat plate
opener gets drilled later.

Butter up the handle halves with epoxy. Pound the 1/4” brass rod through the holes in the tang style
opener. The rod is cut slightly longer than the thickness of the handle.

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Take the handle to an anvil or some other hard metal object. Use a hammer to peen the ends of the
brass rod so they mushroom a bit and lock themselves in the hole.

Sand and shape the handles smooth. With the flat style opener, sand the wood flush to the metal edges
of the opener. After sanding the edges, drill 1/8” holes through the handle and epoxy in the brass rod. I
sanded a four-sided taper on the tang style handle.

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Continue to shape the edges of the handle with rasps, chisels and sandpaper. Shoot for a pleasing look
and a comfortable feel in your hand with no sharp edges.

Finish with oil and your gift is ready!

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MAKE A BOTTLE OPENER THAT POPS

By Paul Mayer

This bottle opener is sure to be a hit with any recipient, as it is unique, useful, and artful. The opener
uses a US quarter as the mechanism to open the bottle and, as an added convenience, a concealed
rare earth magnet catches the bottle cap. I chose to use strips of maple and walnut because I love the
contrast of these two species, but you can use any hardwood(s) that you’d like. Avoid softwoods as
these would likely get dented during use.

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START BY CONSTRUCTING A BLANK

Whether you use a single species or glue up strips as I did, you want to start with a blank that is 1-1/2”
wide x 6-1/2” long x 1” thick. Make yourself a tracing template from the pattern provided below and
trace the outline onto both sides of the blank, ensuring that it is centered each time.

The pattern that I created on the blank consists of the following:

Bottle Opener Template

6”

2014, Woodworkers Guild of America

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THE DRILL PRESS PHASE

Set up your drill press with a fence set 3/4” from the center of the drill bit. This will be directly in the
center of your blank’s width. The drill press will be used to make three recesses in the blank, as well as
to cut plugs that will conceal the magnet.

FIRST RECESS
Position the center of a 1-1/2” forstner bit 3/4” from the end of your blank. Plunge a recess 7/16” deep
into the blank.

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SECOND RECESS
Position the center of a 61/64” forstner bit so that it overlaps approximately 1/8” with the recess milled
in the previous step. The size of this overlap is important as it establishes the lip that is used to pry off
the bottle cap. If the lip is too small it will not effectively open the bottle, and if it is too large, there is
a risk of cracking the bottle or prying the quarter loose. The depth of the recess is 1/16”, which is the
thickness of a US Quarter plus a small amount for sanding. Check the fit and “sneak up” on the correct
depth so that you achieve a perfect flush mount of the quarter.

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THIRD RECESS
Position the center of a 3/8” forstner bit directly over the same spot that the 1-1/2” forstner was
positioned in the first recess operation. Drill a 3/8” deep recess into the blank, which will allow room for
a 1/8” thick rare earth magnet as well as a wooden plug to conceal it.

CUT PLUGS
Using a 3/8” plug cutter, make some 3/8” long plugs. I used maple for the plugs, but you can choose to
match or contrast with the species in which you will be inserting the plugs.

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REMOVE PLUGS
Set the fence on your bandsaw so that your cut will remove the 3/8” long plugs. Place a piece of
masking tape over the plugs so that you don’t lose them as the bandsaw releases them.

INSTALL THE RARE EARTH MAGNET

Insert a 3/8” diameter x 1/8” thick magnet in the recess, pushing it all the way to the bottom with a
pencil or similar object. Spread glue around the perimeter of the plug, and carefully tap it into the
recess directly above the magnet until it bottoms out.

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REMOVE THE EXTRA MATERIAL FROM THE 1-1/2” FORSTNER BIT RECESS
Position the blank on its side edge, aligning the blade so that it is even with the surface where the
magnet is installed. Carefully remove the excess wood that was left behind by the 1-1/2” forstner bit in
the “first recess” operation. This will also cut the plug flush with the surface. Stop the cut as soon as the
plug is cut flush.

CUT THE OUTLINE OF THE BOTTLE OPENER

Place the bottle opener with the recesses down, and cut to the outline, being careful to leave the line.

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CUT THE TOP AND BOTTOM HANDLE PROFILE

On both the top and bottom of the handle, sketch and cut an arch of approximately 1/4” at its deepest
to create a gentle curve on the handle. This makes the bottle opener more comfortable to hold. Be
careful to not cut into the recess that will be used for the quarter.

SANDING
Using a bench mounted belt sander or oscillating spindle sander, remove the band saw marks. Next use
a palm sander to gently round over all corners and sand all areas of the project.

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PROTECTION
Finish with the product of your choice. I used wipe-on oil-based poly for good appearance as well as
durability.

MAKE A JIG TO CENTER THE HOLE IN THE QUARTER

Make a jig by using a 61/64” forstner bit to drill a 1/16” deep recess in a piece of scrap. Then, place a
1/8” drill bit in the center of the recess and drill it all the way through the scrap.

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DRILL A HOLE IN THE QUARTER

Place the quarter into the jig, flip the jig over so that the quarter is down, and drill through the center of
the quarter with a 1/8” drill bit by drilling through the hole in the back of the jig.

DRILL A COUNTERSINK INTO THE QUARTER

Secure the quarter using a hand screw or clamp. Using a standard 1/2” drill bit, carefully drill a
countersink into the “heads” side that will allow the #6 x ½” wood screw to be mounted flush. Take
your time on this step, checking the fit regularly as you progress through the countersinking operation.
You might be tempted to use an actual countersink bit for this operation, but I found that it was too
aggressive and chewed up the quarter leaving a jagged hole. The standard ½” bit works much better.

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INSTALL THE QUARTER

Position the quarter and drill a 1/16” pilot hole. Then, place a dab of epoxy into the recess, insert the
quarter, and install the #6 x ½” screw. Quickly clean up an excess epoxy that oozes out.

TEST VIGOROUSLY
There’s only one way to reliably test the operation of the bottle opener, and that is to open a bottle of
your favorite beverage.

Cheers!

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HOW TO MAKE A BEER CADDY

By Paul Mayer

The tools that you will need include the following:

• Table saw
• Sander
• Drill
• Clamps
• Bandsaw, jigsaw or scroll saw
• Router
• Brad nailer or hammer

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Cut pieces to size. Reference the cutlist and cut all pieces to their appropriate dimensions.

Biscuit joinery. Cut biscuit slots in all locations marked in the diagram. If you don’t own a biscuit
joiner, or are just looking for a faster method, you could simply use glue and 18 gauge brad nails.

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Use pattern to drill and cut end panels. Print the PDF template provided on the next page for the
end panels, and use spray adhesive to temporarily attach to your stock, or trace onto the pieces.

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Grill Caddy End Panel Curve Template
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5-1/2” wide

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Cut to shape. Drill 1-1/8” holes first using a paddle or forstner bit. Then use a bandsaw or handheld
jigsaw to cut the curved pattern. Confirm the hole diameter against your handle.

Round corners on bottom panel. Cut a 2” radius curve on the corners of the bottom that will be near
the paper towel holder. Check the biscuit location to ensure that you don’t cut on the wrong end.

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Attach copper flashing to false bottom. Spread an even layer of contact cement across both
surfaces, let dry for 15 minutes, and press the flashing into place allowing the copper to overhang
slightly on all edges.

Remove any gaps: Using a J-roller or rounded edge of a board, firmly press the copper into place,
going over it repeatedly for a couple minutes until the copper flashing is fully seated against the board.

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Trim and flush copper. Cut the copper flush with the wood’s edge by making 3-4 passes with a sharp
utility blade. Using a file, remove any sharp edges from the copper flashing by stroking downward
toward the wood. Filing in the other direction could pry the copper away from the wood.

Protect copper for glue-up and finishing. To avoid the hassle of removing stubborn glue and finish
later, put a protective layer of painter’s masking tape on the copper prior to assembly.

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Assemble. Apply glue and biscuits, assembling all components of main carcase except for upper rails.
Those can be installed after glue cures. Drill for pins. Hold upper rails into position. Drill 3/32” holes
in locations marked on diagram, going all the way through the side rails and ½” into the mating piece.
After drilling the first hole into the upper rail, insert a copper rod to hold it in position while drilling the
next hole. This will ensure perfect alignment. Then remove rod before applying glue.

Glue and pin. Using an adhesive that bonds copper and wood, such as Nexabond or epoxy, coat the
mating surfaces as well as the holes. Leaving the pins long, tap them into the holes. Cut the pins proud
of the surface and sand them flush later. After installing all pins, use clamps to secure the assembly until
the glue cures.

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Install upper rails and drill hole for thermometer storage. Prior to installing the upper rails, hold
one upper rail in position, and rest it on the lower rail. Ensure proper alignment at each end, then drill a
1/4” hole through the upper rail, and into the lower rail as shown. Then use a spacer to raise the upper
rail 1” above the lower rail. Using the same approach as previously to install the pins, attach the upper
rails to each end panel.

Build drawer. Attach drawer front to drawer bottom using a biscuit. Then attach drawer sides and
back using a brad nailer or by tapping in brads (if you use this method, predrill to avoid splitting).

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Make drawer pull. Using three sections of copper pipe ½” dia x 1-1/4” long and two 90-degree elbows,
form a drawer pull.

Install drawer pull. Mark the locations on the drawer front and use a ½” forstner bit to drill recesses
½” deep. Using Nexabond or epoxy, press the drawer pull into position.

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Install section cross dividers. Measure and cut 5/8” x 1-1/2” cedar to length. Drill a 3/8” hole through
the center of the piece. Set the cedar piece into position and temporarily pin with 3/12” copper rod
stock. Use a section of 3/8” copper rod to mark the location on the end panel where the rod will be
inserted. Drill a 3/8” hole ½” deep into the location on the end panel. Disassemble, apply glue and
reassemble. After glue cures cut copper rods flush and sand with a coarse to medium grit such as 80.

Install paper towel base. Using a scroll saw or bandsaw, cut a 5” circle. Then drill a 1-1/8” hole
through the center of it, and roundover the top edges using a router or sander. Glue and clamp into
position.

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Finish. Use a penetrating finish such as deck sealer to preserve the wood. Install handle, paper
towel holder and bottle opener. Slip 1” copper pipe through holes in the end panels, and cap each
end. No need to use adhesive or solder to fix the caps to the pipe; a friction fit should suffice. If yours are
loose, then use cyanoacrylate glue, epoxy, or solder to permanently mount the caps. Install and cap the
paper towel bar with no adhesive, and use screws to fasten the bottle opener into position.

Optional hanging bracket. If you want to preserve table space near your grill, you can build the
optional handing bracket and install it on a deck railing or side of your house. Simply cut a cedar 2×4 to
the specified length, and use a 1-1/8” forstener or spade bit to drill holes 1-1/4” deep at the identified
locations. Holes should be drilled at a 5-degree angle so that the pipes will tip slightly upward. Stain the
2×4 to match your deck, and install 9” sections of 1” copper pipe into the holes. Add a cap to the end of
each pipe. Do not permanently attach the copper pipe, as this will allow you to remove the pipes when
not in use. Store them in your beer caddy!

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