MARCH 2022 VOL 32 • ISSUE 3 • $10

HERE PLUS AWARDS

THE ENVELOPE, PLEASE

COMES LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT

DR. D’WAYNE EDWARDS

THE THIS JUST IN

FUZZ
LONDON CALLING

SHOW STOPPERS
IR AND TASM REVIEWS
THE LATEST SLIPPERS
IN ALL THEIR COZY,
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FEEL-GOOD GLORY

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 Comes Full Circle

INTRODUCING THE WORLD’S

FIRST COMPOSTABLE AND
RECYCLABLE MIDSOLE
OrthoLite Cirql is a recyclable and industrially
compostable foam created as an alternative
to conventional footwear plastics. Why?
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circularity in footwear. Powered by plants,
Cirql is the solution. Welcome to the future
of sustainable footwear.

Be part of the revolution at OrthoLiteCirql.com

FOP MAR 2022.indd 2 2/25/22 10:57 AM

 DISCOVER THE BØRN COLLECTIONS
Every season, we make high-quality shoes that feel as
good as they look. With artistic touches, unparalleled
craftsmanship, exquisite materials and our patented
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Contact Linda Grosser for more information: GROSSERL@HHBROWN.COM

FOP MAR 2022.indd 1 2/25/22 10:59 AM

 MARCH 2022
F E AT U R E S

Plus Awards Caroline Diaco

President/Group Publisher
Profiles in Excellence
Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
13 Lifetime Achievement
Dr. D’Wayne Edwards Nancy Campbell
Trevett McCandliss
20 Company of the Year Creative Directors
Birkenstock
22 Comfort Specialty EDITORIAL
Alan’s Shoes Kathy Passero
24 Brand of the Year Editor at Large
On Ann Loynd Burton
26 Men’s Comfort Fashion Editor
Ecco Bernadette Starzee
28 Work Boots Contributing Editor
Timberland Pro Melodie Jeng
Tim Regas
29 Outdoor Marcy Swingle
Merrell Contributing Photographers
30 Athletic
Hoka ADVERTISING/
31 Sustainability PRODUCTION

Twisted X Belinda Pina

Director of Sales
32 Women’s Comfort
Taos Noelle Heffernan
Senior Account Manager
33 Insoles
Aetrex Laurie Guptill
34 National Chain Production Manager

Nordstrom Kathy Wenzler

Circulation Director
34 Boots
Dr. Martens Catherine Rosario
35 Slippers Office Manager
Ugg Mike Hoff
PA G E Digital Director

40 36 Ok Zoomers
Men’s slippers suitable for zoom
WAINSCOT MEDIA

meetings and coffee runs. Carroll Dowden

Chairman
By Ann Loynd Burton
Mark Dowden
President & CEO
40 The Right Fluff
Steven J. Resnick
Furry, fuzzy, cozy slippers, oh my! Vice President & CFO
By Ann Loynd Burton
Flexus slipper OFFICES
booties with
ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL
tread soles. On cover: all-over plush
sandals by Alegria.
D E PA RT M E N T S One Maynard Drive
Park Ridge, NJ 07656
Tel: (201) 571-2244
Photography by Trevett 4 Editor’s Note editorialrequests@
McCandliss; Styling by Nancy 9Threads.com
6 This Just In: London
Campbell; Fashion editor:
Ann Loynd Burton; model: 8 Scene & Heard CIRCULATION
Cameron Newbill/Supreme 52 Upclose Comfort One Maynard Drive
Model Management; hair and Park Ridge, NJ 07656
makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli/ 54 Shoe Salon
Tel: (201) 571-2244
Ray Brown Pro. 56 Last Shot circulation@9Threads.com

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept
responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage paid at Mahwah, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.
POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole
risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Wainscot Media. Printed in the United States.

2 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022

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11:50 AM
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FOP MAR 2022.indd 3 2/25/22
 E D I TOR’S NOT E Legacy Matters

star power
You’ve seen your birth, your life and death; you worn by Carmelo Anthony, Derek Jeter and Roy Jones, Jr. The way he
might recall all of the rest. Did you have a good convinced Skechers CEO Robert Greenberg, then CEO of LA Gear,
world when you died? Enough to base a movie to give him his first big break would make a terrific movie scene. So
on? —Jim Morrison would Edwards receiving a signed version of the shoe he designed for
Roy Jones, Jr.’s title bout reading “new heavyweight champion”—the
OVER THE PAST quarter century, I’ve had the day before Jones’s fight.
pleasure of featuring thousands of people in these Edwards decided to walk away from his dream job to launch a design
pages. Each of them is unique, though they share academy that gives people of color a chance—for free—to fulfill their
the common trait of involvement in the shoe sneaker designer dreams too. Over the past decade, the academy has
business. Designers, retailers, manufacturers, served as a pipeline of new talent, while also addressing the industry’s
reps, marketers, middlemen, spokespeople, suppliers, influencers, lack of diversity. Edwards is now leading the charge to open PLC in
hustlers, hucksters…many kinds of people make up our dynamic Detroit, which will eventually offer a full range of design programs—on a
industry. They all come from somewhere and got here somehow. new campus, to boot. DBI, parent company of DSW, has also partnered
They all have stories. with PLC to open the first ever Black-owned U.S. factory that will see
Our industry is quite diverse in that regard. People hail from around the graduates design shoes sold exclusively in its stores. It reads like a Best
world. Their paths into this business are just as diverse. There are those Oscar contender. And there are more great scenes ahead.
who represent the latest generation of families with deep shoe legacies. Edwards’ industry legacy is already remarkable. Until a movie about
They were born into this business and their his life comes out, I highly recommend
veins seem made of shoe leather. Others reading the article in this issue. It is one
follow a less linear but still logical path into of the most inspiring shoepeople stories
the industry—like architects who go on to Edwards’ industry I’ve had the pleasure to write. Edwards
become shoe designers. Pierre Cardin, Tom could have ridden off into the sunset as
Ford and Virgil Abloh, to cite a few. legacy is already remarkable. one of the great sneaker designers of all
Then there are those who come to our Until a movie about time. Instead, he is defying the odds again,
industry out of left field. For example, the creating a completely different legacy that
couple who founded New England Loom (p. his life comes out, I highly pays it forward on an industry-altering
52). What started a few years ago as a vintage scale. He is one of a kind.
rug boutique is entering the wholesale shoe
recommend reading the Speaking of legacy, it is with sadness
business this fall with its “no two mules are article in this issue. that I note the passing of Thomas Hudson,
alike” collection made from rug remnants. Jr., the founder of Footwear Plus. Some of
Lyndsay and Josh Graziano’s path, through you may remember “Tommy” from when
a partnership with a Turkish factory, is he owned the publication, 1990 to 2005.
refreshingly unexpected. Welcome. It was his vision to introduce a colorful,
Then there’s the made-for-Hollywood story of Dr. D’Wayne Edwards, fashion-focused magazine that mirrored the beauty of our industry. It
legendary sneaker designer, founder of the Pensole Design Academy was a completely fresh concept at the time—one that set a new editorial
and now president of the new Pensole Lewis College of Business & standard for our industry and all trade publications.
Design (PLC). He is the latest recipient of our Plus Award for Life- I worked for Tommy for 12 years and spent a decade as editor-in-chief
time Achievement (p. 13). Edwards’ life story is truly exceptional. As a of the magazine. A deep-sea fisherman at heart, he let me chart my own
Black kid growing up in the murder capital of America, his dream of course. And while such freedom surely had risks, especially for a young
becoming a sneaker designer seemed impossible. But he reached the editor, he always encouraged me to cast a wide net and to speak my mind.
pinnacle of brands at the top sneaker company in the world. His journey If I missed the mark, he never criticized. He just said, “Try again.” Being
there reads like a movie script. Edwards, who couldn’t afford college, given the trust, support and freedom to create is rare. It helped me grow
has blazed a trail for others like him to follow. During his decade-long as an editor and a writer. It’s the mark of a good publisher. Also, Tommy
reign as Design Director for Jordan Brand he designed iconic styles didn’t have a mean bone in his body. That’s a good legacy to have, too.

Greg Dutter
Editorial Director

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 2/25/22 11:00 AM
WOMENS : WALLABEE CUP / YELLOW NUBUCK MENS : WEAVER / MAPLE SUEDE @CLARKSORIGINALS

FOP MAR 2022.indd 5

 THIS JUST IN

Punk Up the Volume!

London Fashion Week sees women rock bold,
edgy looks. Photography by Melodie Jeng

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FOP MAR 2022.indd 7 2/25/22 11:00 AM
 SCENE & HEARD
Industry Reconnects in Atlanta
YOU COULD FEEL the energy the minute entering the Cobb Galleria
Centre, longtime home of The Atlanta Shoe Market (TASM), held
last month. The crowd noise, the narrower aisles to squeeze in more
exhibitors and the buyers and wholesalers who filled them—all happily
reconnecting after two years of zoom meetings and fits and starts at
in-person events. It felt like a big family reunion, and many in atten-
dance said the show marked the first time their whole teams had come
together in two years.
“We had 55 appointments, whereas we usually book 35 to 40 at this
show,” says Kevin Bosco, president of Bos. & Co., makers of a namesake
brand, Fly London, Asportuguesas and Softinos. “And they’re coming
more so from the Midwest and the Northeast, who used to not come
here.” In addition to the broader geographical reach, Bosco reports that
TASM drew buyers beyond its sit-and-fit base. The strong reaction to its
trendier collections in Fly London and Bos & Co. served as proof. “It was
a good show all around; we’re definitely pleased
with the response to all our lines,” he says. “Our
retail customers are coming off a very good year,
and they were looking to buy.”
Bill Langrell, COO of Taos, concurs on good vibe
and strong traffic. “Our appointment schedule was
full, but what I didn’t anticipate was the amount
of walk-ins we received,” he says. “We didn’t even
know they were coming, and they came from all
over the place.” Even better was the amount of new
account interest. “Generally, we’re not receptive
to that much, but we had a couple of compelling
meetings that we’re definitely going to do,” he says,
crediting the interest to Taos’ growing success. Laura O’Brien, show director, TASM
“We know our customer perfectly now, and we
just keep building off that,” Langrell explains, adding that the effort now
is to get a little younger. “We’re moving out of some core basic stuff and
into a bit more fashion, but nothing too jarring. We move slow, which is
a blessing and a curse. We don’t make big mistakes, but sometimes we
take the long way to get their safely.”
Joe Pickett, co-owner of Casitas Footwear, distributors of Wonders,
Toni Pons and Onfoot, attests to TASM’s broader buyer base. The success
of Wonders, in particular, bore that out. “The brand has evolved from
being more classic comfort looks to more sport-inspired, and some of our
boots now feature big volume soles that are lightweight,” he says. “Our
Southeast rep has developed a strong business with better-grade fashion
comfort retailers, and the response to Wonders was fabulous.” Further
evidence of TASM serving as more of a national show, Pickett adds, was
the success of this fall market. “Historically, fall hasn’t been as big as the
spring market here, because the Southeast traditionally isn’t a big boot
market. But this show been really good for all our lines.”
Danny Wasserman of Tip Top Shoes in New York, who made the rounds
with his son and daughter (Lester and Margot), said TASM had everything
they were looking for—and then some. “There are more vendors here,
and it’s easier to get here,” he says. Specifically, Wasserman was on the
hunt for Jesus-like flat sandals—a trend he expects to be big this summer.
Work brands were also on the agenda as the company is relaunching its
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workshoes.com site. “We have to connect to work brands for dropship
arrangements,” he says, adding that Tip Top’s online business is nearing
50 percent of total sales. “We think about our inventory much differently
as a whole, because that customer comes from all over the country.”
On that note, Sue Orischak, owner of Foot Solutions in Scottsdale, AZ,
made the cross-country trek to meet with her many niche vendors. In par-
ticular, she was shopping several categories that are becoming important
as the pandemic (hopefully) retreats. “The need for comfortable dress
shoes for all the special occasions that were postponed,” she says is one,
noting that the loss of Beautifeel has left a void that many vendors are
scrambling to fill. “Now that customers have spent the past two years in
sneakers and slippers, there’s little or no desire for uncomfortable dress
shoes.” The other ongoing trend is athleisure, but now with interesting
outsole treatments, zippers and unexpected pops of color. “The zippers
are perfect for customers ready to travel again, and almost everyone is
ready to travel the world or just nearby to see
friends and family,” she says.
TASM, in that way, is no different. Show
Director Laura O’Brien, who is marking her 40th
anniversary as head hostess this fall, believes that
family atmosphere has been key to its long-running
success. “The industry wants to come to Atlanta
because it’s affordable and it’s easy,” she says, not-
ing the floor plan exceeded the February 2019
edition, coming in at more than 800 exhibitors
and 1,500-plus brands. (Last August saw 500
exhibitors.) That included the return of Ugg, Frye
and Camuto Group leasing large store spaces
in the mall area. Buyer attendance was also up
markedly, particularly from the Midwest, West
Coast and internationally. “It was a huge bump in attendance overall,”
O’Brien reports. “Our opening night party was packed, and people were
just glad to be back together.”
“This is the only national show now,” says Daniel Butler of Lines of
Denmark, distributors of Ilse Jacobsen and Rollie, among others. “The
show is busting at the seams and now attended by all the national chains.
Plus, it’s very affordable for exhibitors.” Butler adds, “Our traffic was great.
I have no complaints.” Langrell agrees on the affordability of TASM.
“Atlanta, per dollar, has always been the best show for Taos, whereas the
math to justifying the cost of Vegas was always tough,” he says.
Lastly, TASM is no longer on the outskirts of town. Notably, the new
Atlanta Braves stadium and The Battery—with its many restaurants, bars
and shops—are a walk from the Cobb Galleria Centre. “You don’t have
to leave the area for entertainment,” O’Brien says, citing consistency as
another key aspect of the show’s success. “Our attendees know what to
expect: a show that’s easy to work and just works” she says. “It’s a relaxing,
family environment—we’ve never wanted the hoopla of Vegas.”
Orischak, for one, is on the TASM train. “I appreciate the overall ease
and convenience of the Cobb Galleria Centre,” she says. “The attached
hotels make life easy, and there are many restaurants in proximity. I look
forward to returning in August. This is clearly the rising national shoe
show for so many awesome reasons.”
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 SCENE & HEARD
IR Show Debut a Success
DESPITE HEADWINDS SUCH as a new show, a new destination and
the Covid-19 Omicron variant, the first-ever Innovative Retail (IR) Show
in San Diego last month hit the ground running. Those in attendance at
the San Diego Convention Center reported a resounding success.
“My sales team was jammed almost back-to-back the entire show,”
reports David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, citing the earlier
timing (Feb. 1-3) as key. “It’s in our futures booking window, which made
these true order writing sessions, so the time was highly productive. Show
dates that fall beyond our order season become social events, and that’s
ok, but for the time and energy, it’s far more productive when a show can
meet the schedule of key brands.”
“IR was excellent for Ara,” reports Sam Spears, president of the German
brand’s North American division. “The traffic was very good—we had many
fixed appointments and several unexpected stop-ins.” Spears adds that
the buyer attendance was impressive. “We met with high-quality retailers
from the East Coast, Midwest and West Coast. The retailers represented
were the best of the best.”
That included Tradehome Shoes, the
120-plus store chain headquartered in
Minnesota. Justin Kehrwald, president
and CEO, says IR delivered. “The show
gave us an opportunity to see some brands
that may not have been on our proverbial
radar and to see physical samples from
many brands that we only got to see
virtually,” he says. “Additionally, with
the early deadlines presented to us this
year, IR gave us the chance to see some
running changes to many of our accounts’
product lines and to shore up any pos-
sible gaps that we believed we had in our
assortment.” Then there was the allure Birkenstock, like many booths, were booked back-to-
of San Diego, Kehrwald adds. “Being a back with appointments throughout the IR Show.
Twin Cities-based company, it was nice to
thaw out for a few days,” he says. “The airport is simple to fly in and out
of, the convention center and hotels are nearby and the Gaslamp District
has everything you need as far and restaurants and entertainment. Also,
IR was set up to allow vendors and retailers to get their work done but
also enjoy the camaraderie.”
Rich Rask, president of Rieker Shoe Corp., says IR hit on exactly what
many wholesalers are looking for: a strong regional show. “Regional shows
are more focused, easier to work and easier to attend for both retailers
and sales teams,” he says. “We’ll definitely be back this August.”
Adam Beck, president of Beck’s Shoes, a 21-store comfort and work chain
in seven western states, concurs on the ease of attending IR. “Everything
was walkable—food, entertainment, convention center,” he says. “And the
airport is close, which is a huge plus!” As for the business of buying, Beck
says the show delivered. “We saw all the vendors, as well as many that we
didn’t plan on,” he says. “A lot of people said it reminded them of the old
WSA show, and I’d agree. I feel Atlanta (Shoe Market) and IR are going
to be the future of shows.”
John Holden, director of merchandising for Sole Provisions, an 18-store
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collection of comfort chains including Pegasus Footwear in New York,
Alan’s Shoes in Arizona and Benjamin Lovell in Pennsylvania, says IR
met its objectives. “We saw most of our important partners and recon-
nected with some from the past, as well,” he reports. “We even found a
new brand. And we finalized some marketing objectives and mingled
with industry friends.”
Meeting objectives is music to IR Show Director Gary Hauss’ ears. The
fact that many attendees reported an old WSA vibe was a cherry on top.
“There’s always been a need to maintain a West Coast show presence,” he
says, noting that the Atlanta show served as inspiration. “They’ve created
a great show, and their attendance proves that people are ready to go back
to shows. We hope that between Atlanta and IR, we can give our industry
the much needed in-person shows.”
On that note, Hauss believes IR’s under one roof, affordable, writing
format were other factors contributing to its success. “Many brands reported
that more retailers wrote more orders than any other show of late,” he says,
adding that goal going forward is for IR to
be a place for everyone to reconvene every
six months to keep the industry moving
forward. “The pandemic has made us
all realize the importance of going back
to the basics,” he says. “You don’t have
to be the biggest, you just have to be the
best. Our goal is to grow the show, but
maintain our family feel. We encourage
community over competition.”
Most attendees believe San Diego is
a key ingredient to IR’s recipe—start-
ing with the fact that it’s not Las Vegas.
“San Diego is easy to get to from anywhere,
and the airport is only 10 minutes from
the convention center,” Hauss says. “The
weather is ideal year-round, there are a
ton of restaurants and hotels in walking
distance to the convention center and the city has a laidback feel—very
different from The Strip or the streets of New York.” Hauss, a retailer
of 40-plus years, knows what he speaks of when it comes to walking
trade shows. “We want to be sure our vendors are getting more bang
for their buck and that retailers support their brands as well as be on
the lookout for the next big thing,” he says.
Kahan, a former WSA Show director from a past life, agrees that
San Diego is a key draw. “Fantastic weather, easy travel location and
no show buses, taxi lines or walking through casinos,” he says. “IR is a
simple set-up, easy to work, lower costs and better timing.” Kahan adds,
“We don’t need the bells and whistles of shows past. All a show has to
do is offer a great venue that draws traffic so retailers can wok current
vendors and be able to shop potential new ones.”
It’s why Spears says Ara will be returning to IR in August. “One hun-
dred percent yes we’ll be back, because of the quality of the retailers and
the business we conducted,” he says. “And the venue couldn’t have been
easier—from parking to schlepping samples to booth setup to tear-down…
this is how a show should be run.”
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 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE

23
The

rd

Annual
Plus Awards
R E C O G N I Z I N G O U T S TA N D I N G
A C H I E V E M E N T I N D E S I G N A N D R E TA I L .

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 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT
Defying the Odds
Dr. D’Wayne Edwards, legendary sneaker designer,
founder of the Pensole Design Academy and now president of
the new Pensole Lewis College of Business & Design, has
broken down barriers and blazed a trail every step of his career—
while always sporting the freshest kicks! By Greg Dutter
DR. D’WAYNE EDWARDS is a statistical anomaly
of Powerball proportions. For starters, the odds of
surviving past his 18th birthday in what was then
the murder capital of America—Inglewood, CA in
the ’80s —were against him. His odds of living to see
25 decreased—while the odds of winding up in jail
increased—with each passing year. The odds of attend-
ing college (he didn’t), let alone becoming a president
of one (he is) were astronomically low. The odds that
Edwards would become one of three sneaker designers
in history to have at least one of their designs on sale
at Foot Locker for 30 years running were longer than
getting struck by lightning on a sunny day. Edwards, a
McDonald’s employee during his teen years, probably
had better odds of winning its Monopoly game (report-
edly one in 451,822,158) than of achieving all that he
has accomplished in his remarkable career.
Edwards’ career story reads like a Hollywood script.
Poor kid lives out his childhood dreams to become
head sneaker designer for the pinnacle of athletic
brands (Jordan) through determination, talent, pas- Dr. D’Wayne Edwards
sion and a dash of sneaker fate—thanks to LA Gear
and Skechers Founder Robert Greenberg, who gives him his big break. (More
on that later.) Hip hop legends Biggie Smalls, Tupac Shakur and Snoop Dogg
wear his creations, as do sports heroes Derek Jeter, Carmelo Anthony and Roy
Jones, Jr. Edwards even designs the equestrian boot worn during a U.S. gold
medal performance at the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing.
But that’s just part one of this epic, sneaker-laced biography. The second half
of Edwards’ career is a pay it back/pay it forward story sure to keep audiences
riveted. Once again, it defies all odds as it sets in motion a transformation of the
entire footwear and design industries. In this heroic true tale, Edwards walks
away from his 10-year reign as Design Director of Jordan Brand to launch an
academy aimed at teaching the art of sneaker design to people of color—for
free. His Pensole Design Academy quickly gains the support of leading sneaker
companies like Adidas, New Balance and Nike, which fund bootcamp-like,
two-week design programs as a way to bring long-overdue diversity to their
workforces. Soon after, art schools reach out to partner with Pensole. Edwards,
who couldn’t afford to attend college, soon finds himself leading classes at
the top product design school in the country (ArtCenter College of Design in
Pasadena, CA), the number-one fashion institution (New York’s Parsons School
of Design), and one of the world’s top engineering schools (Massachusetts
Institute of Technology). Along the way, a steady stream of Pensole graduates
22_03_FW_PROFILES_ACHIEVEMENT_08GD_TM_GD.indd 13
begin creating their own sneaker designer legacies.
How’s that for a Hollywood ending?
But Edwards’ incredible career story is still unfold-
ing. The latest chapter will have far-reaching and
lasting impacts in the worlds of footwear, apparel,
packaging and furniture design. That’s because
Edwards’ Portland, OR-based Pensole Design
Academy decided to go to college. Last fall, Edwards,
along with co-founding partners the Gilbert Family
Foundation and Target, petitioned Michigan to
become the newly formed Pensole Lewis College
of Business & Design (PLC) in partnership with
the College for Creative Studies (CCS). In doing
so, the Detroit-based institution has reopened the
state’s sole HBCU (Historically Black Colleges and
Universities) with a new name and vision. The
school, the first HBCU to focus on design, will offer
free tuition to a majority of students, supporting
people of color who are creatives, designers, engi-
neers and business leaders. The school is also the
first mothballed HBCU in the country to officially
reopen. Plans include building a new campus and
expanding degree programs.
There’s more. Last month, DBI, parent company of DSW, announced it is
partnering with PLC on the opening of JEMS by Pensole, the first Black-owned
U.S. footwear factory. The $2 million investment will produce shoes designed
by PLC graduates and will be sold exclusively at DSW.
All this because a poor kid in Inglewood absolutely loved sneakers. That’s
where Edwards’ story begins—one truly made for Hollywood.
SCENE 1: THE ORIGINAL SNEAKERHEAD
1 All Edwards ever dreamed about as a kid was to become a sneaker
designer. He started sketching kicks in middle school and, by high
school, he was stopping into local hardware and shoe repair shops
regularly to pick up the early tools of his trade to customize his sneakers—an
exacto knife, duct tape and dye. Soon he was customizing kicks for his basket-
ball teammates and other kids at school. “That became my little side hustle,
but it really started because I had to be different than everybody else,” he says.
“I still have the same problem to this day: My fear is walking into a room and
someone has the same pair of shoes on as I do.”
At age 17, Edwards even won a sneaker design competition sponsored by
Reebok—only to be told to come back in four years after he earned a design
march 2022 • footwearplusmagazine.com 13
2/28/22 5:47 PM
 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT
degree. (It was a slight Edwards vowed he would—and did—avenge.) But college
was out of reach financially. Worse, Edwards’ high school guidance counselor
tried to shoot down his dreams before they even got off the ground, telling him:
“No Black kid from Inglewood is ever going to become a footwear designer.”
Edwards refused to listen.
“I actually saw her six years into my career, in front of Skechers offices in
Manhattan Beach,” he recalls. “She asked what I was doing and I said, ‘What you
told me I wasn’t going to do.’” Edwards, though, understood what she meant by
her statement. “She was trying to tell me to just get out of the city alive,” he says.
“She felt that if I could get into the military, I could be safe, or if I could find a
more realistic job, I wouldn’t get caught up in the streets and end up where some
of my friends did, which was in the ground or in jail.” He considers her advice a
blessing. “I needed that extra motivation to prove her wrong.”
Edwards’ high school actually played a huge role in living out his sneaker
designer dreams. During freshman year he was kicked out of art class—he
wanted to draw sneakers, not fruit—and, as “punishment,” put into a draft-
ing class. That led to an off-campus program, beginning his junior year, that
taught interior design. Edwards took an hour-long bus ride to attend the class,
which is where he was exposed to another world. “Once I got introduced to
design, I started designing shoes instead of just drawing someone else’s.” The
last sneaker Edwards drew in high school was his version of what he thought
the Air Jordan 2 should look like, which came out in ’88, the year he graduated
from high school. Little did Edwards know then that, in a little over 10 years,
he would become Design Director of Jordan Brand.
SCENE 2: GAME ON!
you questions, Greenberg asked, “If I offered you a job, would you accept it?”
Edwards’ answer was an unequivocal yes!
“Robert offered me my first professional footwear design job right after my
19th birthday,” he says.
Greenberg, who has decades of experience building and leading multi-billion
athletic footwear companies, knows talent when he sees it. He also spotted two
qualities in Edwards that warranted giving the kid his big break: “Ambition and
passion,” Greenberg says. “D’Wayne just wanted so badly to be a designer.”
Edwards is eternally grateful to Greenberg, whom he considers his first men-
tor. “I learned my whole existence as a business person from just watching him,”
he says, recalling how he tried to beat Greenberg into work. “It took me four
tries–and it was 5 a.m.—in order to beat him there!” Edwards became a student
of Greenberg’s work style. “Robert had a routine of consuming knowledge before
the day started and setting a to do list by speaking into this handheld recorder,”
Edwards recalls. “For 33 years since, I’ve written a do list every day and read to
get some knowledge. I’ve added meditation into the process, but everything I
learned from Robert back in the early ’90s I still do today.”
Greenberg’s instincts were spot-on. Edwards hit the ground running at LA
Gear. And when Greenberg left to launch Skechers, Edwards soon followed—but
not before a year-long stint designing shoes for the Black-owned MVP Products
in Detroit. “It was the first time I ever saw snow! I was 24 years old!” recalls
Edwards of the learning experience. “I met some great designer friends, and
I’d watch Eminem and D12 perform at my friends’ stores on Saturday nights
before they became famous.”
Edwards kept in contact with Greenberg and told him about a growing
streetwear apparel movement happening in L.A. with brands like Cross Colors

2
Fate plays a leading role in Edwards’ story. His big break comes by
chance after landing a job at a temp agency. Edwards’ coworker
didn’t want to file papers at LA Gear, so they sent Edwards instead.
“If he’d gone, my whole life would have been completely different,” he says.
Edwards was thrilled just to be inside a sneaker company. He peppered the
designers with questions, asking how he might get a job like theirs. They all told
him he needed a college degree. Then Edwards took matters into his own hands,
through LA Gear’s suggestion boxes. Ever the entrepreneur, he put sneaker
sketches drawn on 3x5 index cards in the box every morning before he went to
work in the mailroom for sixth months—180 shoes! “That was my Instagram,”
Edwards says. “I knew somebody would see it, and I hoped at some point they’d
show it to the design department and they’d buy it from me.”
Then one day Edwards heard his name over the intercom, with an order to
report to the president’s office. “I’m like, damn, did I mess up that bad at fil-
ing papers that Robert Greenberg wants to fire me personally?” He walked in
slowly and saw a bunch of his design cards splayed out on Greenberg’s desk.
He braced for the CEO to lower the boom. Instead Greenberg said, “So, I hear
you’re the person putting all these sketches in my boxes.” Edwards apologized
profusely and said he just loved drawing sneakers. After a few get-to-know-
and Karl Kanai. The brands were going to be big, he told his friend/mentor,
and if they ever decided to do shoes, Skechers should think about getting in
on the trend. Greenberg listened and, after signing the licensing deals for both
brands, he recruited Edwards as head designer. Soon after, Edwards’ designs
donned the feet of hip hop royalty—Tupac, Biggy, Snoop, Dr. Dre and Nas.
“Those were not paid endorsements,” he says with pride. “It was just crazy to
think these legends of hip hop were wearing my shoes.”
Edwards had officially arrived. Over the next few years, he designed for
Cross Colors and Karl Kanai and, when those license deals were not renewed,
Greenberg gave him the green light to launch his own brand, Sity. “I was traveling
all over the world and noticed how sneakers were different in other countries,
and I wanted to bring back some of that style to the kids in the ’hood,” he says.
Sity’s first collection sold out, and in 2000 an industry publication ranked
the brand second to watch out for behind Jordan. Pretty good company—and
another sign of things to come.
Sity plans were moving forward, but then Skechers began transitioning to
going public. The decision to divest of new projects became paramount, and
Sity was one of the casualties. “Leaving Skechers was hard,” Edwards says. It
was hard for Greenberg too, but he knew he had made a positive impact on

• OFF THE CUFF a kid. Those memories and the ones of

What are you reading? I’m listening to
the audio book Black Detroit. I’m also
watching a lot of documentaries, like
The United States of Detroit. As we pre-
pare our move, I’m trying to understand
the city’s heritage and what Pensole
could do to add to its rich history.
What is your favorite hometown mem-
ory? Those of the friends on my block,
who I’m still friends with to this day, and
how we’d break out football games in the
street, which seemed so much bigger as
stealing fruit from our neighbors’ trees
are my favorite.
What was the best business advice
you’ve ever received? “Take five minutes
off and get back to work.” (Skechers
CEO) Robert Greenberg, my first mentor,
told me that after I did something well.
And I’ve been wired that way ever since.
I digest it, cool and then it’s on to the
next project.
What is your motto? A Bruce Lee quote
that I have on my signature: “To hell with
circumstances, I create opportunity.”
That’s because of where I come from.
That quote is how I approach everything.
Whatever cards I’m dealt…I’m going to
make it work.
Who is your most coveted dinner
guest? Personally, my two brothers and
my mother, who passed when I was
a teenager. I would give up an awful,
awful lot to have dinner with them all.
Professionally, it would be Bruce Lee,
Leonardo Da Vinci and Bill Gates.
If you could invent anything, what
would it be? I’d want to be Tim Berners
Lee, who invented the world wide web,
because I don’t think he understood what
he was doing by giving it away for free.
Imagine if you just got a penny for every
minute of use. My goodness!
What might people be surprised to
know about you? I’m an introvert. Like, I
was good with 2020. (Laughs.) My life’s
work forces me to talk. But if I didn’t
have to talk, I wouldn’t. I let my work
speak for itself.
What are five words that best describe
your life? Dream. Inversions (things that I
thought were bad turned out to be amaz-
ing). Grateful. Blessed. Underdog.

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022

22_03_FW_PROFILES_ACHIEVEMENT_08GD_TM_GD.indd 14 2/28/22 5:47 PM

 Congratulations to Dr. D’Wayne Edwards –
visionary leader, passionate designer,
and deserving Footwear Plus Lifetime
Achievement Award recipient. We’re
so proud to partner with you and
PENSOLE on the DiverCity x Design
program, giving the next generation
of designers the opportunity to
follow your path and ‘dream bigger.’

Thank you for inspiring us all

to move the world forward.

FOP MAR 2022.indd 15 2/25/22 11:01 AM

 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT
Edwards’ life. “Nothing feels better than respect,” he says. “My passion is dis-
covering talent in people and helping them grow and prosper.”
SCENE 3: ATOP THE SNEAKER MOUNTAIN
3
Edwards, fresh off of Sity, needed a new job. That’s when a col-
league tipped him off that Nike was looking for someone to help
them compete with Timberland in the outdoor space. The friend
connected Edwards with Drew Greer, an “industry legend” who Edwards says
prepped him for the interview. Edwards will never forget that first day at the
Beaverton headquarters. “It’s every sneakerhead’s Wally World,” he says. “I was
in awe; I’d never even been to Oregon.” Two weeks later, Nike ACG offered him
a job. As far as he was concerned, it was a daily pass to the world’s greatest
sneaker park.
Nike ACG was located in the Jerry Rice building, one floor below Jordan
Brand. “I was this close to Jordan, so I’d sneak upstairs just to smell what the
air was like,” Edwards confesses. Design director Bob Mervar didn’t mind. One
day Mervar asked Edwards if he would like to “work on some stuff.” Edwards
jumped at the chance for another side hustle. Within a year, a full-time spot
opened and Edwards got the job. The following year, Mervar left for another
category and Edwards assumed the role of design director. He had to pinch
himself—often.
“The most memorable aspect of the experience, besides meeting Michael
Jordan, was my second project, which was a redesign of the Air Jordan 2,”
Edwards remembers. “That was the last shoe I drew in high school. So 12
years later that was a full-circle moment that told me this is where I was
meant to be.”
Edwards held court over Jordan Brand designs for the next decade. At the
beginning, it was a $275 million business; 10 years later, it had zoomed to
$1.3 billion. “It was an amazing ride,” he says. “We worked extremely hard.
Monday, June 6 pier sixty, NYC
For sponsorship opportunities contact trawson@twoten.org
22_03_FW_PROFILES_ACHIEVEMENT_08GD_TM_GD.indd 16
But everybody there just loved the brand so much that we didn’t know we
were killing ourselves.”
Some memorable designs of Edwards’ Jordan Brand era include gold medal-
winning shoes designed for Carmelo Anthony, University of North Carolina’s
two NCAA championship teams, NBA star Ray Allen and Roy Jones Jr., who
won several belts in Edwards’-designed shoes, including the heavyweight cham-
pionship in 2003. “He actually signed a half pair for me on the day before as the
‘new heavyweight champion,’” Edwards says. “That was pretty cool.”
Edwards says his designs are all his children; there are no favorites. “I’ve
always had the mindset that if I picked a favorite, whatever I did next wouldn’t
be good enough.” He enjoyed pushing the envelope each season. He loved his
Nike tenure, but the work was grueling and, toward the end of his decade,
he wanted to give back to young designers like himself—kids who needed their
big break. He didn’t want to be known only for his designs. When first visiting
Nike, “I was introduced to people by their name and the shoe they designed,”
he recalls. “I understood the reference, but I didn’t like it.”
Around this time, the sneaker game went digital with forums like Nike Talk,
Nice Kicks and ConceptsKicks. Kids often posted their sketches. A few even
emailed them directly to Edwards. “These kids were hungry to design sneakers
for a living,” he says. “They would love to do what I’m doing, so I never took my
job for granted.” One such-up-and-comer was Jason Petrie, whom Edwards
communicated with online; Petrie went on to design all the Lebron James
styles for 10 years. He later thanked Edwards for the free mentoring. That’s
when Edwards started devoting more attention to mentoring his interns—and
that made him rethink his industry legacy.
“Even though Spike says ‘It’s gotta be the shoes,’ I didn’t want it to be that,”
he says with a laugh. “Mentoring drove me to think about things differently.”
In 2008, Edwards created the Nike design competition Future Sole. At the
time, the company employed only six Black footwear designers. Nike wanted
2/28/22 5:49 PM
 WE CELEBRATE

ACTIONS
SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS.

DR. D’WAYNE EDWARDS

JonesAndVining.com PensoleLewisCollege.com

FOP MAR 2022.indd 17 2/25/22 11:01 AM

 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT
to address its diversity problem. But how? Edwards came up with the idea of
a competition to level the playing field for candidates who didn’t necessarily
have a degree. Since he was designing shoes for Carmelo Anthony at the time,
he asked him to be the face of the program. He also asked Lisa Leslie, a fellow
native of Inglewood, to be the face for women hopefuls.
“I wanted the kids to see famous athletes who love sneakers, just like they do,
encouraging them to be designers,” he says. The first year 800 kids entered the
contest. The next year it was 10,000, followed by 250,000 and close to 900,000
in the fourth year. The 12 winners from those competitions are all professional
designers today. The program worked. “It also showed that this is real—a lot of
kids want to be sneaker designers, but they had no path,” Edwards says. “This
gave me a glimpse into what could be possible.”
SCENE 4: AN EDUCATOR IS BORN
4
Coming off the success of Future Sole, Edwards took an eight-
week sabbatical. He thought about the kids he had mentored who
had gone on to become successful designers. Realizing he drew
the greatest professional satisfaction from their achievements, he decided on
a career change.
“I wanted to give it all back, because those kids are just like me when I was
a 17-year-old in Inglewood trying to figure out life. That’s what I want to be
remembered by,” Edwards says, noting that The Rules of the Red Rubber Ball,
written by a former Nike exec, helped crystalize his desire. “It’s about finding
your true passion, and I realized my red rubber ball is a yellow No. 2 pencil,
because it designed my life. Without that object—one that I use to this day—I
wouldn’t have done anything that I’ve done for the last 33 years. That’s why
the school is named ‘Pensole.”’
Launching a school from scratch is not easy. But Edwards had the bones of
a curriculum from the mentoring he’d been doing. So he reached out to the
University of Oregon at Portland, which had just launched a product design
program, and asked to teach a class. They agreed and the Pensole Design
Academy was born.
“I flew in 40 students from around the world,” Edwards says of his inaugural
class. “I designed a two-week program, because that was how long you had to
design a shoe from start to finish at Nike. I wanted to put the kids through
exactly what it was going to take for them to make it in this industry.”
The students logged 14-plus hours every day and loved every minute of it.
Edwards also brought in Nike designers as guest mentors. “They got an immer-
sive experience, as it was important for them to see that there were multiple
ways to get into this industry,” he says. Proof of Pensole’s potential: Of the 40
kids in that class, 37 work as designers in the industry.
Word quickly spread. Edwards received a call from the ArtCenter College of
Design in Pasadena—the school that would later award Edwards an honorary
degree—asking him to teach a class. It marked the start of a 10-year partnership
with the institution. Soon after, Parsons School of Design reached out to Edwards.
So did MIT. “So here I am, the kid who never went to college, teaching at the top
design schools in the country,” Edwards says. By that point he knew he didn’t
want to return to corporate life. “I fell back in love with design and teaching.
Seeing that look in the kids’ eyes…I didn’t want
to remove that emotion by going back to work.”
Edwards in front of the former home of the Lewis College of
Edwards officially left Nike on April Fool’s Day Business, Michigan’s only HBCU, that will reopen as PLC.
2011. Over the next decade, as he grew Pensole
Design Academy, he gathered knowledge on what
would become PSL. He didn’t know with who,
when or where yet, but teaching at top designs
schools laid the foundation. “I was learning about
culture, curriculum and the education system,” he
says. “I took bits and pieces from them all.” It’s the
same way Edwards approached design projects.
“I learned everything I could and then, to use a
Bruce Lee expression, took what was useful and
released what was useless.”
18 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022
22_03_FW_PROFILES_ACHIEVEMENT_08GD_TM_GD.indd 18
Edwards attributes Pensole’s success to its strong ROI. “Job placement was
my ROI,” he explains. It was a win for all parties. “The brands made the invest-
ment in the students that they couldn’t find in traditional ways, and we taught
them exactly the way they would work, so our kids didn’t need as much break-in
time as those graduating from traditional schools.”
One such satisfied graduate is Aric Armon, footwear designer for U.S. Football
at Adidas. The word that first comes to his mind when thinking of Edwards is
mentorship. “The lessons I learned from him have influenced my life in pro-
found ways, both professionally and personally,” Armon says. “He told us right
from the beginning that it was our duty to take what we learned and pass it
along. In that way, D’Wayne is a mentor to mentors, and his impact continues
to exponentially grow with every new generation of talent.”
Jordan Johnson, associate product manager and designer for New Balance,
says Pensole is the reason he is where he is today. “The ample networking
opportunities combined with the wealth of knowledge provided by D’Wayne
and the Pensole staff are priceless,” he says. “It is truly an experience that cannot
be replicated anywhere else.” Johnson learned everything there is to know about
the process of creating a product the “D’Wayne Way.” Those tenets include:
Always design for a purpose, as “The world doesn’t need more shoes”; solve
problems; create product for specific consumers; and integrate true storytelling
into the product. “This formula always creates the best product,” Johnson says.
SCENE 5: COLLEGE BOUND
5
The PLC deal came together quickly, starting in mid 2020. Pensole
had been growing steadily—Edwards was looking for a bigger
campus site in Portland—but the murder of George Floyd changed
everything. Corporations started reassessing their investment in Black com-
munities, and Edwards decided to pivot.
“Pledges started happening, and we’re talking billions of dollars,” he says. But
when it came to potentially donating to design schools, corporations discovered
few options. Of the 96 schools in the U.S. that offer design or art programs,
Black students comprise only nine percent of total enrollment. Worse, only two
percent of them graduate. Just nine percent of HBCUs offer design programs,
and those are in graphics and apparel—none offer product design, which is the
primary degree for athletic footwear. “That’s why there’s a lack of diversity in
the industry—because those kids aren’t in college,” Edwards says.
Corporations began reaching out to Edwards. They liked Pensole’s model
because it got results. Its success had already caught the attention of a Dan
Gilbert, founder of Quicken Loans and Rocket Mortgage, who suggested on
several occasion that Pensole move to Detroit. “I kept saying no. It didn’t make
sense, there was no shoe industry in Detroit,” Edwards recalls. But then fate
dealt him another winning hand.
In mid 2020, Edwards was speaking with a former student about how
Detroit’s CCS should partner with an HBCU to increase its diversity. The for-
mer student mentioned that Detroit used to have an HBCU, the Lewis College
of Business. Edwards was immediately intrigued. He researched the founder
(Violet T. Lewis), the reasons the school closed and why its efforts to reopen
failed. A realtor who had just sold the school’s building put Edwards in touch
with the Lewis family. He contacted them and
shared his vision for reopening the college with
a design program component. “They loved the
idea. They said their grandmother would have
loved what we teach at Pensole, because that’s
how she started the school in 1928 in Indiana,”
he says. “They liked the vision I had for the
college moving forward, so we entered into
an agreement to bring it back.”
Edwards now had a good reason to call
Gilbert, who committed funding as a found-
ing partner and offered to match anyone who
matched his initial donation. Edwards also got
support from Target. He was meeting with >55
2/28/22 5:50 PM
FOP MAR 2022.indd 19 2/26/22 7:59 AM
 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE
COMPANY OF THE YEAR: BIRKENSTOCK
A Big Year
BIG IS THE apt word to describe Birkenstock in 2021, the most successful year
in the company’s history. The German brand recorded big growth, expanded big
into product categories and announced big plans to open two new European
factories soon to keep up with the growing demand. But the biggest news of
all: its acquisition by L Catteron, the private equity firm backed by LVMH, for
an estimated $3.5 billion. That’s huge—on many levels.
Birkenstock is no longer strictly the family-owned business it had been
for nearly 250 years. The brand is now part of a conglomerate that features
powerhouse fashion labels Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Celine and Givenchy.
Concerns about funding brand expansion went poof. But the acquisition is
much bigger than that. On a macro scale, it reflects how comfort is fashion.
The granola, tree-hugging, anti-fashion, most renowned
comfort brand is now a part of one of the world’s biggest
fashion houses. Comfort is officially cool.
Here, CEO Oliver Reichert reflects on Birkenstock’s big
year. A year that again broke records and, perhaps more
importantly, laid the foundation for the brand to reach new
levels of growth in the years ahead. —Greg Dutter
How was business overall in 2021? It was another
record year with overall growth of over 30 percent. Our
business performed extremely well across all categories,
channels and markets. Our DTC business developed
fantastically, with our own digital channel performing
best and, most remarkably, with no repercussions for the
wholesale channel, even compared to 2020, when online
received a strong boost due to the pandemic. Things also
went extremely well for us in the U.S. where we are one
of the most popular footwear brands. I’m truly impressed Oliver Reichert, CEO, Birkenstock
by the passion with which our teams and partners made
2021 the most successful year in our company’s history.
I say this with humility as 2021 was an incredible challenge for our industry.
What were some key product highlights? Where do I begin…2021 was such
a busy year. We’re currently seeing a strategic push for the last fall/winter col-
lection, so our share increased to 40 percent of our business in 2021. The push
is driven by our cozy winter trends with shearling sandals, shoes, boots and
home styles. Our main business continues to grow in spring/summer, driven
by sandals, such as our new highlight, the Gizeh Big Buckle. We are also seeing
positive trends for new product drops such as the Teddy platform sandal in
our on-trend eggshell color and our new Arizona Split in exciting color blends.
We’re also seeing fantastic progress in our closed-toe business—this part of the
business is becoming more and more important.
On the collaboration side, our project with Jil Sander, launched in June,
saw a huge response in the global fashion scene. It took two years for the
product to be ready. We chose to work with Jil Sander, believing in the new
perspective of Lucie and Luke Meier. They’ve given this important brand
relevance and authenticity. Together we achieved what we always strive for:
newness and product innovation.
20 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022
22_03_FW_PIE_15_GD_TM_R2.indd 20
Why are the new German factories a big deal? Our multi-million invest-
ment program is quite unique in an industry that is used to handing over
production to third-party suppliers. It will allow us to expand our production
capacity from around 30 million pairs to 40 to 50 million pairs and create
at least 1,000 new jobs in Germany. For outsiders, it may be unusual to
invest so much money in an industry that has more or less turned its back
on Europe and moved to Asia. But not for us. We are made in Germany.
With these investments, we’ll strengthen our supply chain as well as show a
clear commitment on the part of our shareholders to Germany. And maybe
one more surprise: We’ll be investing in our orthopedic roots with Deep
Blue Footbed, marking a new strategic chapter. Never forget, Birkenstock
is the inventor of the footbed.
What was the biggest surprise of 2021? I was a bit
surprised to see how much progress we, as a society,
made in a more conscious and healthier lifestyle. It
took a pandemic for people to take a closer look at their
lifestyle. People care more about their health, eating
habits, how/where they worked, etc. They started
to reflect about their desk, their chair and how they
dressed. Many people who tended to be uniform in the
past reinvented themselves, and Birkenstock was a big
part of this movement. We’ve seen this in our sales,
which have literally gone through the roof overnight.
What was toughest challenge faced last year? To
serve the dramatically growing demand while facing
limitations in our production capacity. We’ve been
sold out for 10 years in a row. Of course, it’s a good
problem to have, but it’s still a challenge as we want to
meet the expectations of our partners and consumers.
Partnering with L Catterton allows us to pave the way to the next chapter
in our growth story. With that backing, we’ll be able to grow our business
into a new dimension while staying true to our roots and values.
How would you grade your team on navigating through such unprec-
edented challenges? This team is doing an extraordinary job—and not
just in the pandemic, but for 10 years now. It doesn’t matter whether it’s
the C-level or a factory worker, everyone is burning for their ideas and
fighting for a greater cause, which is far bigger than each of us individu-
ally. You can see and feel that in our products—every detail is extremely
well thought out and perfection is pushed to the highest level in every
corner of our company.
Looking back on 2021, what are you most proud of ? That we stayed
relevant without having to compromise on our values and beliefs while
many constants in life were turned upside down. And, while doing so, being
a reliable partner for our employees, suppliers, distribution partners and,
last but not least, fans.
3/1/22 3:00 PM
 THE IR SHOW VENDORS FEB. 1 - 3, 2022

AETREX FLY LONDON REEBOK WORK

ALEAF PRODUCTS GABOR REGARDE LE CIEL
ALI MACGRAW GANTER R-EVOLUTION
FOOTWEAR GENUINE GRIP REMONTE
ALLROUNDER GEOX REVERE
AMALFI BY RANGONI GOLO SHOES RIEKER “antistress”
ANYWEAR FOOTWEAR HAFLINGER ROBERT ZUR
APRES BY LAMO HALSA FOOTWEAR ROCKPORT
ARA ILSE JACOBSEN ROCKPORT WORKS
ARCOPEDICO INFINITY ROLLIE
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AS98 JAMBU & CO S-FELLAS
ATOM JOSEF SEIBEL SALVIA
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AVENGER WORK BOOTS KANNA SAS - SAN ANTONIO
AZURA KEEN FOOTWEAR SHOEMAKERS
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BIONICA KLOGS FOOTWEAR SESTO MEUCCI
BIRKENSTOCK KUMFS SKECHERS WORK
BIZA L’ARTISTE SOCKSMITH
BORN FOOTWEAR LAFORST SOFFT
BOS & CO LAMO FOOTWEAR SOFTINOS
BOTTLESMITH LIVING KITZBUEHEL SOFTWALK
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BURTEN DISTRIBUTION MEPHISTO SPRING STEP
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CADENCE INSOLES MOBILS PROFESSIONAL
CARMELA MOSHN SPYDER FOOTWEAR
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CHACO FOOTWEAR NAOT FOOTWEAR SUPERFEET
CHARLESTON SHOE CO NATIONAL SHOE WORLDWIDE
CHINOOK FOOTWEAR TRAVELERS (NST) TAOS
CLARKS NAUTILUS SAFETY THE FLEXX FOOTWEAR
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COMFORTIVA NEROGIARDINI TIMBERLAND
CREATIVE RECREATION NO BS TOMS
DANSKO OAK & HYDE TONI PONS
DAVID TATE OLANG TOPO ATHLETIC
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IR_SHOW_AD_OUTLINES.indd 21 2/28/22 6:10 PM

 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE
COMFORT SPECIALTY: ALAN’S SHOES
Swan Song
ALAN MIKLOFSKY, RECENTLY retired owner of Alan’s Shoes in Tuscon,
AZ, ended on a high note. Not only did he snag a Plus Award for retail excel-
lence, the veteran retailer finished 2021 with two strong quarters—as more
people became vaccinated—that enabled the two-store business to top 2019
sales and would have topped the 20-year-old chain’s best year ever of 2018 if
he could have gotten his hands on more inventory.
Blame it on the pandemic, and the fact that in the sit-and-fit world lots
of customers are repeat style purchasers—or nothing. “We just couldn’t get
some of those key athletic styles in all the sizes and widths that our customers
demand,” Miklofsky says, noting that it was a similar issue with a couple of
key casual brands as well. “If we had the right amount of inventory, we’d have
really beaten 2019 by a lot and 2020 by a ton.”
Nonetheless, Miklofsky believes the inventory shortages forced his team
to become better retailers. For starters, they had to find alternatives, and
then they had to convince customers they were worthy substitutes. On
that note, he says Brooks and Hoka made up for some of its New Balance
inventory shortage. “A lot of independents like myself were overly reliant on
New Balance, anyway,” he says. “So we were really fortunate that we could
turn to those two brands, like a lot of other independents did with On.” And
while the idea is to always sell the inventory that you have, Miklofsky admits
there were times when alternatives simply didn’t do. “You can’t trade them
all. Some people fall in love with a particular style, and that customer wasn’t
served very well by us last year because we just didn’t have every size and
width needed,” he says. “Or with Birkenstock, for example. You can try to sell
a knockoff or something similar, but that’s usually not successful. You hate
losing those sales.”
David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, credits Miklofsky’s long-running
success (he and his wife/business partner Annette got their start in shoe
retailing in 1982 with The Shoe House chain) for his inventory management
capabilities, for starters. “Alan’s Shoes offers a fantastic assortment of the best
comfort brands along with fantastic personal service,” he says. “He’s a student
of the footwear industry and is very adept at managing his inventory to be
productive.” An example, Kahan notes, was the Miklofskys’ decision decades
ago to take a risk on a little niche brand (Birkenstock) that has since helped
define their retail career. “Having the foresight to take certain brands and bring
them to their community and never compromise the high levels of customer
service, as well as always being a well-run operation make Alan and Annette
role models,” Kahan says. “They’re also fantastic communicators—very direct
and have a good understanding of both vendor and retailer needs. They truly
epitomize the word ‘partner.’”
Miklofsky credits the chain’s success particularly in 2021 to his people. “Our
staff, especially our executive staff, performed miracles for our company,” he
says. “Our buyers worked with our vendors, and our sales staff worked harder
with customers.” With regards to the latter, Miklofsky made investments in
store employees to try and reduce attrition, which proved to be very successful.
“As our attrition rate reduced, it allowed our average staff person to become
22 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022
22_03_FW_PIE_14_GD_TM.indd 22
Alan Miklofsky: the
man and his store.
more knowledgeable about our products,” he says. “That meant that our efforts
at SWAT (Sell What’s Available Today) helped us reduce obsolete inventory
and keep our walk rates low.” Miklofsky adds, “Our customer service abili-
ties, already very high, became better as more salespeople started to reach
the benchmarks we established for them.”
As for the decision to call it quits after 40 years, Miklofsky cites a host of
reasons for making it the right time to sell his business—particularly the
opportunity to sell to Sole Provisions, an 18-store chain of comfort stores
that include Pegasus Shoes in New York, Benjamin Lovell in Pennsylvania
and InStep in Texas. Miklofsky believes his business is in good hands—one
that will continue its legacy of great customer service, only now with a much
stronger buying position. “Even prior to the pandemic, I became convinced
that our business, as good as a retailer we had become, would be a better
business as a division of a larger retailer,” he says. “Without margin growth,
it’s difficult for small retailers to produce enough gross profit to carry expense
ratios that fund professional staffs that can accomplish all that we aimed to.
Our focus on inventory accuracy and networking required too large of a back
office payroll expense at a time when selling floor payroll needed to increase
to meet the demands of state mandated payroll and benefit increases and the
needs of our staff in an environment where everyone is competing to recruit
staff from other employers.”
The Miklofskys did their due diligence in finding the right partner. Or, as
Miklofsky says, “The right recipe cannot and should not be rushed.” The two
entities first got to know each other’s needs and wants, a process that required
transparency and understanding. “A seller should run away from any buyer
who wants to make many changes immediately, or who doesn’t understand
the seller’s model or who isn’t ready, willing or able to execute,” he offers. “We
were fortunate to find the right match for us.”
Ditto for John Holden, director of merchandising for Sole Provisions. “They
are iconic stores and align with what we do nicely,” he says.
As for any sage parting independent retailer wisdom, Miklofsky believes
there is strength in numbers. “Work with fellow retailers. Find some clues by
putting your heads together,” he says. “It’s one of the reasons why trade shows
need to happen, so you can sit down and talk about what is and isn’t working,
instead of only looking at your own business.” In the meantime, Miklofsky
says he won’t disappear completely from the industry he so loves. “I’ll relax
for a bit first, but I plan to work on consulting projects,” he says. “I’ll still be
attached to the shoe business in various ways.” —G.D.
2/26/22 2:18 PM
 All of us in the Taos family sincerely
appreciate receiving the
2021 Plus Award for Women’s Comfort.
I would like to thank everyone in the
industry that voted for us and has
supported us over the years.
I also want to thank everyone here at
Taos that has worked so hard to make
our brand what it is today and what it can
continue to be in the future.

DeepakAlag DavidBarad
RobCapodici RosarioCentina
YahyaChan MelanieDeSantiago
BrianFelse DonFulton ChadGlass
EricaHeck ChrisHusby SylviaJensen
TeresaJohnson MichelleJohnston
MikeKasterko JenniferKuo
OndreaKurttila BillLangrell LizaLiaghat
NeilMeadows KarolynNavarro
BiraneNdiaye BillNelligan MarkMehrens
SaraMichelle JanetSanchez Schwinden
AmandaStiles KyleStearns DianneStevenson
ErikaVazquez ValerieVentimiglia MikeWalker
JaneWalters JohnZelayandia and our Agents
and Factory Partners.

You are all STARS!

STAR by Taos Humbly,
Glen Barad - President Taos Footwear

2022FP_ComfortBrandAwardAdIdeA2.indd 1 2/23/22 11:50

4:49 PM
FOP MAR 2022.indd 23 2/25/22 AM
 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE
On’s Cloudrock hiker took
the brand to new heights.
BRAND OF THE YEAR: ON
On It
SINCE LAUNCHING IN 2010, On has reached lofty heights worldwide
with its “running on clouds” inspired performance technology that has since
expanded beyond running and into trail running and performance apparel
(2016); street and waterproof collections (2018); hiking (2019) and tennis
(2021). Along the way, the Swiss-based company—founded by former pro-
fessional athlete Olivier Bernhard and friends David Allemann and Caspar
Coppetti—has racked up numerous design awards and built a cult of cloud
cushioning personality among millions of elite athletes, weekend warriors,
street influencers and celebrities along the way.
On’s popularity only soared to new heights in 2021, which was highlighted
in September by its IPO with an initial raise of $746 million and an estimated
market value of $7.3 billion. (The IPO was done in pure On form: the founders
and 100 other runners jogged along the Hudson River en route to Wall Street
to ring the opening bell.) Demand in 2021 spiked across all channels, regions
and product categories, contributing significantly to On’s hyper-growth. Net
sales increased by 68 percent in the third quarter, the strongest quarter in the
company’s history, and by 77 percent in the first nine months of 2021.
In addition to groundbreaking performance and cutting-edge style, On has
also scored success by being an attractive brand alternative, especially at a time
when other large athletic brands have been culling down their lists of retail
partners. With regards to the latter, Caspar Coppetti, co-founder, cited in its
Q3 press release the continued strengthening of partnerships with “some of
the most recognized premium global retailers” as a key to its success. The exec
added, “We hit exciting milestones this quarter, which included becoming the
official outfitter for the Swiss Olympics and Paralympics teams, introducing
the Cloudboom Echo to support our athletes achieve incredible results, and
wowing consumers with the new Cloudstratus.”
24 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022
22_03_FW_PIE_14_GD_TM.indd 24
Here, we go into the trenches with two leading retailers on why On was a
brand that delivered big time to their businesses in 2021. —G.D.
LESTER WASSERMAN, OWNER, TIP TOP SHOES AND WEST NYC:
How important was On to your overall business in 2021? On was a key part
of not only our athletic business, but a massive part of our overall business as
customers looked to buy more to sneakers than they had in years past. The
pandemic had people looking to get outside, get healthy and avoid mass transit.
Were On sales up over 2020 and 2019? Our On sales were up significantly
over both 2019 and 2020. They were one of the few athletic vendors that
had inventory when we needed it. We stepped up our orders and they were
able to fill them.
What are some factors that make On a popular choice among your cus-
tomers? On is highly desirable, in part, to the fact that one of their key styles
last year was a slip-on. People enjoy easy on/easy off footwear. Additionally,
the comfort is there right out of the box. No break-in required. Lastly, the
tech look of the shoe makes it look fast and lines up with how customers feel
and want to feel.
Who are your On customers, and are they different perhaps than other
sneaker brand customers in your stores? The On customer ranges both
in age and what they are looking to do with the shoes. We have customers
25 to 35 who train in them, as well as customers who are over 50 who wear
them as casual and walking shoes. It’s tough to pinpoint a particular group
because there are so many different customers wearing them. That’s what
makes them a success.
JUSTIN KEHRWALD, PRESIDENT AND CEO, TRADEHOME SHOES:
How important was On Running to your business last year? In 2021, On
solidified itself as a top brand for Tradehome Shoes. Over nearly five years
of carrying the brand, we’ve continued to confidently and enthusiastically
introduce new customers to On products. Last year proved to be the year
that people came to our stores because we’ve become known as a retailer
that carries a great assortment and is educated on the DNA of the On brand.
Were your On sales up over 2020 and 2019? Last year was our best with
On. And we expect we’ll continue to grow the brand—provided we can keep
up from an inventory perspective.
What were some popular styles in 2021? The core models (Cloud, Cloud X,
Cloudswift, and Cloudflow) all had great years for us. Additionally, we were
able to grow business with the Roger (tennis) collection and with the more
trail-inspired styles, such as the Cloudrock and the Cloudventure. Neutral colors
led the way, but the more colorful offerings have definitely gained momentum.
What are some factors that makes On a popular choice among your cus-
tomers? On shoes, plain and simple, feel good and look cool. The product is
ready to wear right out of the box and has a distinct styling that absolutely
resonates with our customers. On does an excellent job of introducing new
color assortments and silhouettes, while keeping the tried-and-true combina-
tions fresh and desirable.
On has also helped fill a vacuum caused by athletic brands that couldn’t meet
deliveries or have stopped shipping select retailers entirely. Securing product
was absolutely a challenge in 2021. But On has done an excellent job keeping
us updated on shipment timing and has consistently informed us whenever
there has been additional inventory available to secure.
2/26/22 2:20 PM
 FALL | WINTER
2022

STYLE | KUSH
HB-SEQUOAI

springfootwear.com | 800.962.0030 /Springfootwear

FOP MAR 2022.indd 25 2/25/22 11:02 AM

 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE
MEN’S COMFORT: ECCO
Lean and Clean
LEANING INTO CONSUMER trends sparked by the pandemic, Ecco stra-
tegically tweaked its offerings while continuing to focus on its core strengths
in 2021. The Scandinavian comfort brand updated one of its main men’s
dress lines with new silhouettes and comfort technology in anticipation of
the category bouncing back when people began returning to offices. And with
consumer appetites for casual outdoor shoes showing no sign of letting up,
Ecco developed a new active men’s line to fill a gap in its offerings.
Focusing on what it does best while making adjustments for evolving con-
sumer habits helped propel the shoemaker to strong sales in its core dress and
casual categories in the second half of the year, says Felix Zahn, director of
merchandising planning and allocation for Ecco, which is marking its fourth
straight Plus Award win in the Men’s Comfort category. —Bernadette Starzee
All things considered, how was business in 2021? When entering 2021 it
was already clear to us that it would not be a normal year again. There simply
have been too many changes
initiated by the pandemic,
to which a complex industry
like ours cannot quickly react.
Consumer behavior and prefer-
ences have dramatically changed,
impacting our own points of
distribution and our business
partners. We all saw a disap-
pointing first quarter driven by
reduced and regulated traffic
in most parts of the country.
But with vaccines being rolled Felix Zahn, director of
merchandising/planning
out and warmer temperatures
arriving, we saw a steady pickup
in business beginning in Q2. Business really got better in the second half of
the year when the reopening of the economy. Core Ecco categories such as
casual and dress made a strong comeback for us in the second half, and we also
saw continued growth in our outdoor and golf segments, which both remain
at much higher levels than pre-pandemic. However, with the emergence of
the Delta and Omicron variants in late 2021, we faced new challenges again.
How did you adjust your products when you realized it would be another
abnormal year? Our aim for 2021 really was to focus on our strengths, essentials
and our base. When it comes to men’s, we predicted that dress shoes would
eventually make a comeback in the back half of the year. Therefore, we updated
26 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022
22_03_FW_PIE_14_GD_TM.indd 26
one of our most core products, the Helsinki franchise. Our new Helsinki 2 is
based on the original idea, however now with an updated last shape, featuring
modernized new silhouettes and a new comfort fit technology.
Secondly, we predicted that many consumer lifestyle changes the pandemic
has brought upon us would continue to last, including a more local, outdoor
lifestyle. Our team identified a gap in our collection here and, as a result,
introduced a new product franchise named MX, which stands for ‘motocross.”
Hence, the rather aggressive outsole profile. It’s a lightweight, multifunctional,
everyday outdoor sneaker that guys can take on the trail or just for a casual
walk with the dog. Our MX collection comes in many different silhouettes
and executions.
What other notable brand initiatives did you introduce in 2021? We
focused even more on sustainability. A core part of our DNA is making our
own leather, and one area we are heavily focusing on is water efficiency. We
have heavily rolled out our DriTan leather technology in our collections.
Besides saving huge amounts of water, the technology considerably reduces
the amount of chemicals used and lowers the wastewater production. In
addition, we use surplus leathers in our shoes, are conscious in our design
process and have streamlined the portfolio, in order to utilize all our materials
to reduce surplus and waste.
What was the biggest surprise of the year? How well we continue to work
together and have adapted as a big global company, despite all the challenges
the pandemic has thrown us. Most of our meetings, workshops and daily work
have been facilitated remotely. The product development process, which for
decades has been hands-on,
has been streamlined and
largely digitalized.
The new MX collection: ideal
for trail and coffee runs.
How did supply chain woes
impact Ecco? Supply chain
issues were definitely front
and center in 2021 and con-
tinue to bug us. Fortunately,
we own our own tanneries
and factories, giving us more
control over that part of the
supply chain. Here we have
done everything possible to
keep our factories open while
guaranteeing the safety and well-being of our employees. For example, Ecco led
the vaccination efforts in many of our factories, especially in Asia, providing
early vaccine access to our workers and their families. In addition to keeping
our factories open, we have optimized shipping routes and prioritized certain
product categories over others.
How would you grade your team’s overall performance navigating these
unprecedented challenges? The team has done a hell of a job and fought for
every single pair in 2021. We’ve grown together much stronger as a company.
For instance, due to short staffing, employees from various areas of the busi-
ness have helped out in our warehouses and stores.
2/26/22 2:21 PM
 The USRA
MAY 1-3, 2022

WWW.USRAONLINE.ORG

BRINGING THE FOOTWEAR

COMMUNITY TOGETHER TO
FACE TODAY'S CHANGING
RETAIL ENVIRONMENT.
Linda@USRAonline.org
661-367-4816

FOP MAR 2022.indd 27 2/28/22 2:22 PM

 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE

Fall ’21 also marked a milestone in footwear eco-innovation for Timberland

Pro. To help minimize our carbon footprint, we’ve explored ways to lever-
age net positive practices and produce products that perform well and
are better for the environment. An example of this is our Gridworks EK+
boot, which is made entirely from leather sourced from farms that utilize
regenerative agriculture.

What were some other notable brand initiatives? Timberland Pro continued
our work to inspire the next generation of skilled workers, combatting the
expanding skills gap. In partnership with The Martin Agency, we released the
third evolution of our “Always Do. Never Done.” brand voice campaign. The
spots showcase real workers welding hundreds of feet above an iconic soccer
stadium and getting a “higher education” as they admire the coastline from the
top of a wind turbine. Timberland
Pro also continued our valued
WORK BOOTS: TIMBERLAND PRO partnership with the Generation

Never Stop Working

T movement to raise awareness
and help change the narrative
around the skilled trades.

What was the biggest surprise

of the year? That we continued to
find new and innovative ways to
efficiently adapt to the pandemic
THE EVOLVING NEEDS of the workforce inspired performance, comfort environment. Through strategic
and durability innovations in Timberland Pro’s 2021 collections. A repeat partnerships with key manufac-
winner in the Work Boots category, Timberland Pro has stayed ahead of turers, Timberland Pro launched
changes in the dynamic marketplace, where strong demand for the various a digital product creation process
essential services provided by professional tradespeople has in turn created that allows the team to create 3D
steady need for the brand’s extensive offerings for men and women. renderings of new products to help
Vice President and General Manager Bob Sineni discusses how the iconic shorten lead times and enhance
workforce brand’s customer-centric approach served it well in 2021. —B.S. virtual sales programs. The virtual
samples help create prototype
How was business last year and how did it compare to 2020 and pre- efficiencies and further position
pandemic? Overall, Timberland Pro had a strong year. The industrial footwear Bob Sineni, VP/GM Timberland Pro Timberland Pro as the technological
market has seen many changes and accelerants since the pre-pandemic world. leader in the workwear category.
For the most part, the industrial workers of the world were deemed essential
and were often at the forefront of the changing times. One sector that has What was the year’s toughest
continued to grow exponentially has been the warehousing, transportation and challenge? Like many brands,
logistics sector. Through our efforts to understand evolving consumer behav- Timberland Pro experienced
iors and shifts in global supply chain, Timberland Pro has had an opportunity challenges with our global supply
to serve the workers who have been keeping our world moving forward over chain. Through thoughtful and
the past two-plus years. The professional tradesperson continues to be at the staggered product launches and
center of the Timberland Pro strategy and this consumer-centric approach to proactive relationship manage-
all parts of the business has been the main catalyst for our success. Combine ment, we were able to minimize
this with product innovation and you have a winning formula. the impact of these challenges.

What were some of your key innovations in 2021? In the spring, we How would you grade your
launched a revolutionary new footwear style that raised the bar in the safety team on its overall perfor-
athletic category. In the Radius work shoe, we introduced our HoverSpring The Radius Flex boot features the mance navigating through such
foam midsole, which combines lightweight, athletic materials with jobsite new HoverSpring foam midsole. unprecedented challenges? The
durability and performance. resilience and passion that this
Timberland Pro also launched the second iteration of the iconic Boondock team has shown over the past
family, the Boondock HD. It features the new StepPropel comfort platform two years has been nothing short of extraordinary. They have been adap-
to give you the energy needed to move throughout the workday. It’s also built tive and agile through a lifetime of changes in a short period of time. The
with the patented ExoSpine technology to help lock your heel into place and fact that this brand has been so successful during a very difficult time is
increase durability. We also launched the new women’s Ashlar work boot in a testament to each and every person working on Timberland Pro. The
the fall, providing comfort, durability and performance on the jobsite and team lives as stewards of the brand every day and I’m really proud to be
built specifically for a woman’s foot. a part of it.

28 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022

22_03_FW_PIE_14_GD_TM.indd 28 2/26/22 2:23 PM

 OUTDOOR: MERRELL

Gorpcore is Good

TURNING 40 IN 2021, Merrell marked the milestone by riding a wave of

elevated interest in outdoor activities sparked by the pandemic. The subsid-
iary of Wolverine Worldwide continued to grow its top-selling Moab hiking
line while launching a new collection to capitalize on the growing gorpcore
trend, in which the functional features of an outdoor style are combined with
high-fashion elements for crossover to everyday wear.
With millions of people participating in outdoor activities for the first time,
Merrell has embraced the newbies through its marketing and new product
collaborations. “In 2021, we became more vocal about our brand purpose,
which is to share the simple power of being outside with everyone,” says Merrell
President Chris Hufnagel. Here, the exec talks about the brand’s efforts of the
past year and why the great outdoors were, in fact, great for Merrell. —B.S.

How did 2021 compare to 2020 and pre-pandemic? The outdoors is hav-
The new @UnlikelyHikers collab celebrated diversity.
ing its moment during the pandemic. According to the Outdoor Industry
Association, 7.1 million Americans ventured out to start participating in
outdoor activities in 2020, and in 2021 we saw that interest in Merrell and
outdoor activity still holding strong and contributing to our strong growth.

What were some key product highlights of the year? We continued to

grow our Moab franchise with the launch of Moab Speed and Moab Flight.
Merrell Moab has become the bestselling hiker in the world, and the approach
to introducing the Moab Speed was to reflect a more athletic, faster way of
hiking with a lightweight, protective hybrid-designed shoe to give any people
the physical confidence to tackle any trail. This new launch was a hit with
consumers because it enabled them to explore the newest trend of “fast hik-
ing” and the aesthetic of the shoe itself was boldly designed, which also made
it stand out from a fashion-forward perspective.
Another highlight was the launch of our 1TRL collection, curated for taste-
maker consumers who are leading the fashion trends and driving the explosion
of the gorpcore trend. As a result, we are being invited to participate in runway
shows with upcoming designers like Louis Gabriel Nouchi.
Collaborations also energized us throughout the year, as we really pushed
forward on using our platform to elevate trailblazers who share in our com-
mitment to making the outdoors more inclusive, accessible and welcoming to
all. Early in the year, we partnered with Jenny Bruso and @UnlikelyHikers
to introduce a new hiking boot collection that celebrated the diversity of the
growing hiker fan base. We also tapped into the creative talent of Latasha
Dunston to introduce the Outdoors for All collection and drive forward
conversations for justice, equity, diversity and inclusion. Latasha’s artwork
inspired us to create shoes reflecting the beauty and power behind her mes-
sage that the outdoors is for everyone.
How else have you embraced new outdoor enthusiasts? We seized the
opportunity to take over National Great Outdoors Month with a bold campaign
that reinforced “Everything Is Greater Outdoors,” encouraging the industry,
media and consumers alike to think differently about what it means to share
the simple power of being outside with everyone. From self-care to mental
health, music to community, we collaborated and celebrated the virtues of
being outdoors by sparking a movement to inspire people to find creative
ways to get outdoors, where everything is greater.
In 2021, we also joined forces with Big Brothers Big Sisters (BBBS) to
embark on a long-term relationship that will harness the power of being
Front runner: The Moab Speed GTX, part of Merrell’s
top-selling Moab franchise.
outside and make it more accessible to more youth. We worked closely with
BBBS to create life-changing connections for young people with the outdoors,
culminating with our Shared Steps campaign in September, which ultimately
achieved over 40 million steps that were converted into a substantial dona-
tion back to BBBS to further support its ongoing mentorship work and new
opportunities to expose kids to the outdoors.
What was the biggest surprise of the year? One thing that has delighted me
is the way that Merrell is starting to break into the cultural, from appearing
in a Vogue spread shot by Annie Leibowitz to key celebrities and influencers
wearing our shoes on and off the trail.
What was your toughest challenge in 2021? Continuing to ensure the safety
and well-being of our people, not only in the U.S., but also around the globe.
How would you grade your team’s overall performance since the pandemic
began? We have an outstanding team, comprised of dynamic, hardworking and
smart individuals who genuinely personify our brand’s mission by bringing their
passion for the outdoors into the work we do every day. Nothing makes me prouder
than to see their resilience and grit in action as leaders across every function of
our business. I value and appreciate every single member of the Merrell team
for their ongoing commitment to bringing their best selves to work—day in, and
day out—even at a time of unprecedented challenges.

march 2022 • footwearplusmagazine.com 29

22_03_FW_PIE_14_GD_TM_R1.indd 29 2/28/22 7:33 PM

 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE
ATHLETIC: HOKA
Running Strong
The new Tecton X:
Hoka’s first carbon
plated trail runner.
ONE OF THE world’s fastest growing athletic footwear brands, Hoka made
major strides in 2021, helping to propel parent company Deckers Brands to
its largest quarter in history for it recent third quarter, which ended Dec. 31,
2021. Hoka’s net sales for that quarter totaled $184.6 million, up 30.3 percent
over the prior year, and the brand kept its foot on the gas, launching several
new products in 2021 and inking a partnership deal that pays homage to its
French trail running roots.
Hoka was founded in 2009 by two French runners who wanted to create a
shoe that would allow them to run downhill faster. The original product, which
featured an oversized outsole with a maximum amount of cushioning and stabil-
ity, became a favorite among ultramarathoners. Acquired by Deckers Brands
in 2013, the brand has since expanded its line to include hiking and lifestyle
shoes while picking up millions of fans spanning elite athletes to average Joes
and Janes hooked on Hoka’s comfort and performance attributes.
Or, as Chris Cohen, vice president sales for Hoka, says, “We truly feel that
everyone is an athlete, and we strive to empower everyone so they can see
themselves represented in Hoka.” —B.S.
Why might Hoka be well-positioned amid
the so-called new normal? The pandemic
has drastically changed consumer behav-
iors, particularly when it comes to health
and wellness routines. People have shifted
toward safer activities like cycling, running,
walking and hiking, to offset their previous
gym and yoga memberships. Hiking and
running in particular have seen a huge
uptick in sales and participation. For the Chris Cohen, VP of
month of July 2020, NPD reported that U.S. Sales, Hoka
30 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022
22_03_FW_PIE_14_GD_TM.indd 30
hiking footwear sales increased by over 15 percent compared to the previous
year, which is remarkable considering the entire footwear market declined
by 16 percent that same month. This upward swing in outdoor behaviors has
only continued to grow through 2021. With Hoka’s innovative and solution-
oriented approach to product creation, our brand is perfectly positioned to
empower this new surge in active people to fly over the earth, in whatever
way or activity suits them.
What were some key product highlights of the year? We were fortunate
enough to have quite a few successful launches in 2021—from kicking the
year off with the new Carbon X 2, the shoe that brought runner Jim Walmsley
17 seconds short of the 100K world record; to the launch of the new Clifton
8, one of our most popular road shoes; to the Bondi X, whose innovative
approach to carbon-fiber plates reimagined the relationship between speed
and cushion, making carbon accessible to a broader audience.
What were some other notable brand initiatives introduced in 2021?
This year, Hoka announced a multi-year partnership with the Ultra-Trail
du Mont-Blanc (UTMB) to become the iconic race series’ official technical
footwear and apparel sponsor. Hoka’s role as presenting sponsor highlights
the brand’s ascendancy in the trail running community. Hoka was born in the
mountains and has many meaningful and long-standing ties to Chamonix,
France, where the event is based. We’re honored and humbled to partner
with UTMB under the unified goal of making the special sport of ultra-trail
more accessible to athletes.
What was the biggest surprise of the year? Our continued brand accelera-
tion across all access points was a welcome surprise. While we had planned
for continued growth, the growth trajectory exceeded our expectations in all
product categories. Beyond that, while I can’t say it counts as a surprise, the
manner in which our trade partners have adapted, consistently, has been great
to see. Beyond that, the spirit of collaboration has been remarkable; we are
clearly living and operating in unusual and unpredictable times, which has
caused us all to become sharper in all we do, but none of it happens without
strong relationships.
What was the toughest challenge in 2021 and how did you overcome it?
The supply chain, as every area was impacted dramatically. These challenges
included increased freight and cost pressures related to container shortages,
port congestion and trucking scarcity. They all converged at once, creating
significantly longer transit times as well as a greater reliance on air freight.
Our teams and trade partners have had to be very nimble, as the supply picture
changes almost daily. The last thing any brand wants to do is disappoint the
consumer, which has required our field teams to be in constant contact with
all partners, to ensure they are creating a reasonable expectation with their
retail customers. Additionally, we’ve had to tailor our messaging, socially,
digitally and otherwise to reflect the current reality of a dynamic supply chain.
Beyond that, the willingness of Deckers to invest significantly in air freight
has had a direct impact on the end consumer, as we’ve been able to mitigate
longer transit times, ultimately getting consumers the product they desire in
a more timely manner.
How would you grade your team on its overall performance navigating
through such unprecedented challenges? I’m privileged to work with an
amazingly talented team of people—from product to distribution, and all
cross-functional partners in between. We’re so proud of what everyone has
accomplished this year. I believe that our team met every challenge head on,
with optimism, drive and an overwhelming desire to succeed. The success
we enjoyed this year was a direct result of that dedication and hard work.
2/26/22 2:26 PM
 The Zero-X collection features
a no-glue construction and
rice husk outsoles.

percent recycled and upcycled EVA waste, and LeatherTWX, which is made
of 80 percent scrap leather that would otherwise go into landfills. These were
big accomplishments for Twisted X because not only are we reducing our use
of new materials, but we are also reducing waste going into landfills. From
creating new eco-friendly materials to exploring new techniques for construc-
tion, Twisted X holistically evaluates every step of our process to continue to
create environmentally responsible footwear and production processes without
compromising quality and performance. In fact, we have found that leverag-
ing our sustainable materials makes for better footwear. Last but not least, we
signed a collaboration agreement at the end of last year with renowned Texas
artist and philanthropist, Olivia Bennett, to introduce a new collection coming
to market in 2022 with a focus on sustainability, innovation and Twisted X’s
philosophy to be humble and kind.

Green and good then, yes? Yes. And on that note, we opened a Tough Enough
to Wear Pink Counseling Center in Decatur, TX, where our headquarters are
located. Twisted X led the charge in bringing this counseling center to life
alongside Wise Health System, committing $1.2 million to the flagship center.
It’s operated by Wise Health System and creates a counseling destination for
those currently fighting and recovering from breast cancer.

What were some other highlights of the year? In 2021, we developed a patent-
pending construction technique where our CellStretch technology now comes
in a single sole, regardless of size. This technology was first introduced in our
Tech X collection, which features traditional western styles with revolutionary
SUSTAINABILITY: TWISTED X comfort. Another highlight was the rapid growth of Twisted X Work. When the
pandemic started, the agricultural, manufacturing, warehousing and trucking

Green Dreams
industries skyrocketed, and we saw an opportunity to increase the production
and launch new lines specifically for these industries. Since then, our growth
has been phenomenal in the category,
and we’re expecting that to continue
in 2022.
TWISTED X INTENSIFIED its commitment to sustainability last year
while increasing production of its footwear, which includes western, lifestyle What was the toughest challenge
and outdoor styles and a rapidly expanding work category. The Texas-based of last year? Supply chain. The
company infused new sustainability initiatives into its products, technologies unpredictability of Covid has been
and company policies while working to stay ahead of its retail partners’ grow- a pressing concern. Fortunately, it
ing demand for inventory. hasn’t impacted our production or
CEO Prasad Reddy discussed the year’s challenges and successes, as well as shipments. However, the congestion
Twisted X’s ongoing mission to help preserve the planet. at U.S. ports and lack of container
space has been a challenge for many
What were some notable sustainability initiatives introduced in 2021? brands. What used to take four
We brought on Kristy Rosica, our first-ever sustainability strategist, to help weeks for products to arrive now
set metrics to quantify Twisted X’s carbon neutrality, which we achieved in all takes about 10. At one point we
business operations worldwide as of 2020. In her role, Kristy has led efforts to had more products in transit—on
quantify and communicate our long-term sustainability initiatives through yearly the water or in between factories Prasad Reddy,
reports that aid in determining additional steps we can take to further reduce and warehouses—than we had in CEO, Twisted X
waste. This has included creating lifecycle assessments that track materials all the warehouse. However, since we
the way back to their original sources to educate partners and consumers on the increased our production early in the pandemic, it has helped us greatly to
impact Twisted X is making on the planet. Kristy is also tasked with researching ensure we’ve had enough products in our warehouse to keep up with demand.
additional eco-friendly materials and processes to keep us at the forefront of
innovation. The addition of a sustainability strategist was something unheard How would you grade your team on its overall performance navigat-
of for a company of our size, but the investment has certainly been worth it, ing through such unprecedented challenges? We have a very small
and we encourage others to follow our lead. team considering the size of our market presence. But I believe we have
the best team in the industry, and quite a few of our peers have com-
Anything else? We announced our commitment of ensuring 100 percent of mented on our incredible progression over the past few years. I always
our products will have at least one sustainability element by the end of 2022. say people make the company, and the growth of Twisted X is because
We also brought to market Blend85, which is our new footbed made of 85 of our exceptional team.

march 2022 • footwearplusmagazine.com 31

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 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE
WOMEN’S COMFORT: TAOS
Merchant Mindset
AFTER 40-PLUS years of honing his craft, Glen Barad, president of Taos
Footwear, has a pretty firm grasp of what categories will be meaningful for
the comfort brand and its retail partners. And that currently spans sandals,
canvas sneakers, classic boots, leather cup soles and wool—the five categories
that fueled the brand’s success the past few years. Sales in 2021 were up 10
percent over 2019, which Barad finds “pretty incredible,” since a lot of fall
inventory never arrived due to Covid-induced factory closures.
The success stems from picking the right categories, building them out
and creating a strong Taos trust factor with retailers and consumers. “We try
The Woolderness clog, a
best-seller in 2021.
to identify trends that are going to have long legs,” Barad explains. “I prefer
not to chase things that might be dust in the wind or a flash in the pan. We
focus on ones that we expect will be around for a long time, but we come in
at the front end when people are just starting to embrace it.” An example of
getting an early jump was Taos’ decision, 17 years ago, to focus on footbeds,
which the then new brand uniquely introduced across a range of silhouettes.
“Look at the market now: everybody has a footbed story, whereas back then
it might have been one or two brands,” he says. “We’ve put footbeds into dif-
ferent categories, and it’s been working very well. I think we’ve a big hand in
changing the overall look of the industry.”
Wool styles are another success story. While Taos has been offering such
styles for 15 years, it’s been over the past three years that it has maximized the
trend. “We’ve become more aggressive, and it’s paying dividends for us,” Barad
says, noting the category had been regional until Allbirds helped introduce the
material to a broader audience. It’s just that Taos is hitting on a much broader
range of wool styles than sneakers. “The more traditional, classic wool clog
category is doing very well, and we source from Europe where they’ve been
the experts forever,” he says. “And then we’ve introduced indoor/outdoor wool
casual styles that appeal to a much broader audience across the country. We’ve
become the go-to brand for wool casuals in our distribution channel, and wool
32 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022
22_03_FW_PIE_14_GD_TM.indd 32
overall has become another very successful category for us.”
Of course, you have to see the trend in order to seize upon it. And that’s
credit to Barad’s good eye. “It’s 40 years of going to school,” he says. “And while
I don’t get up at 4 a.m. on Sundays to go to swap meets, or shop the malls
until they close after a full day of work, those decades of studying the industry
gives me a feel for the right trends.” The exec adds, “I think we happen to be
very good merchants, whereas it’s often a case other companies throw a bunch
of things against the wall and hope to see what sticks. Our track record on
hitting on the right trends and categories speaks for itself.”
Another key ingredient contributing to Taos’ success amid the pandemic
has had nothing to do with shoes, really. But it might be just as important,
according to Barad. Namely: Taos cares about the well-being of its retail
partners, and that’s been reflected in its open and honest lines of communica-
tion throughout the crisis. “Our team communicated the good, the bad and
the ugly with all of our customers,” he says. “We tried to help them where we
could. We let them know what we could and couldn’t do. And I think they
really appreciate somebody being upfront with them, versus don’t pick up the
phone, don’t say anything and we’ll communicate after the fact.”
Above all, Barad says Taos’ busi-
ness is conducted with care. “We
genuinely want to help our retailers
succeed,” he says. And while Barad
believes this philosophy is rare in an
increasingly DTC focused landscape,
he’s not changing tactics any time
soon. “Even though it has probably
held our numbers back on a macro
scale, I think it’s the reason we’re so
important to the better independent
and specialty chains we work with,”
he says, believing that those ties will
pay greater dividends in 2022 and
beyond. “It feels like we’ve become
true partners while overcoming the
industry challenges together. If we can
recapture the business we lost in 2020
and manage the supply chain issues, Glen Barad, president, Taos
we should have a very healthy 2022.”
Barad stresses that none of Taos’ recent or future success is possible with-
out its dedicated team of employees. Namely: Bill Langrell, Sylvia Jensen,
Deepak Alag, Teresa Johnson, Karolyn Navarro, Don Fulton, Jennifer Kuo,
Erica Heck, Ondrea Kurtillo, Rosie Cetina, John Zelayandia, Dianne Stevens,
Mike Kasterko, Rob Capodici and Janet Sanchez. “These people are setting
a tremendous example for the staff who’ve recently joined our company,” he
says. Yet Barad grades them a B+ in 2021. “They did extremely well, but I’d
never give an A, no matter how well they did,” he says. “There’s always room
to improve. We can never be satisfied; we’re always figuring out how we can
be better.” —G.D.
2/26/22 2:30 PM
 ning technology, and in 2021, we were busy selling it. We booked an enormous
amount of orders, and hundreds are going out on the market now, to a broad
distribution of retail customers—running, workwear, outdoor, department
Aetrex orthotic
stores and others. We have also opened up five freestanding stations in
sales grew double
digits in 2021. heavily trafficked malls, which are driving growth of orthotics and footwear
while bringing benefits to consumers. People may be walking in the mall, and
outside a Lululemon or an Apple store, they may see this high-tech station,
where they can have their feet scanned, see where the pressure points are,
transfer the data to their mobile device using a QR code and be introduced
to orthotics and footwear digitally. We currently have it in five locations and
plan to expand to more.

What were some other notable brand initiatives introduced in 2021? We

launched FitGenius, which is part of our foot scanning technology program.
Once customers get their feet scanned in one of thousands of stores, this plat-
form matches their foot profiles with their ideal footwear styles and sizes to
provide personalized footwear recommendations, which they can access across
the retailer’s digital shopping platforms after leaving the store. To understand
the problem FitGenius is designed to solve, think about shopping for shoes
online. You order shoes, but when you get them home, they don’t fit right or
feel good. FitGenius puts consumers in the position where, when shopping
online, they can rank the styles they’re looking for in terms of their ability to
fit their unique feet. It’s an incredible ecommerce experience that ties into
INSOLES: AETREX our scanning technology and makes it less likely consumers will return the
shoes they ordered.

Grand Scans What was the toughest challenge in 2021? The biggest challenge was
procuring components for our scanning technologies. But because our pur-
chasing teams around the world did a great job working together, we did not
have significant issues and we were proud to be able to launch our scanning
technology despite the unexpected supply chain problems.
THE GROWTH OF Aetrex’s orthotics and footwear lines have gone hand-in-
foot with the success of its cutting-edge foot scanning technology systems. Since How would you grade your team on its overall performance navigating
2002, more than 10,000 foot scanner devices have been placed with retailers through such challenges? A+. One thing we’re really proud of over the last
around the globe, and last year, Aetrex began rolling out its next-generation two years is that our management team united around a point of view of what’s
in-store scanner, the Albert 2 Pro, to rave reviews and success. best for the business. We were
Customers who step on the Albert 2 Pro, for about 20 seconds, receive 3-D able to appeal to the best in
measurements and pressure point analyses of their feet that can be used to people and motivate them to
Matt Schwartz,
custom-select orthotics and choose footwear that best fit their feet. Aetrex VP of sales exceed what even they thought
has sold more than 15 million units of its over-the-counter orthotics, which they were capable of doing.
are available for all foot types and footwear styles and include 3-D printed Our people outperformed
custom orthotics that are created using data from the Albert system. and our management teams
Matt Schwartz, executive vice president of sales, discusses the Albert 2 Pro and did a great job leading. I’m
how the third-generation, family business thrived during the second year of the proud of how much the
pandemic with its all-inclusive scanning, insoles and footwear approach. —B.S. team was able to produce
and what they were able
How was business in 2021, all things considered? In 2021, we had record- to accomplish during such
breaking orders across the four main categories of our business: Aetrex- challenging times. There is
branded orthotics, footwear, scanning technology and DTC sales. During the a lot of indication that in
pandemic, we never stopped working. We used it as an opportunity to advance all the key categories, we’re
our products and plant the seeds for significant growth in the next few years. poised for significant growth.
We’re excited about what
What were some key product highlights of the year? Our Aetrex-branded everybody accomplished to
orthotics saw double-digit growth in 2021 versus two years earlier. In 2020, put us in a position to have
we developed the Albert 2 Pro, which represents the cutting edge of foot scan- this opportunity for growth.

march 2022 • footwearplusmagazine.com 33

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 PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE
NATIONAL CHAIN: NORDSTROM
Pop Rocks
IF YOU BUILD it, shoppers will come. That’s what Nordstrom dreamed up
last year in an effort to bring shoppers back (safely) via enticing pop-up shops
and selections. Two pop-up of note were Black Founders and Dr. Marten’s,
both installed at Nordstrom NYC flagship’s Center Stage.
In celebration of Black History month, the Black Founders pop-up featured
eight Black-founded/owned companies spanning beauty, apparel, accessories
and footwear. Namely, Jessica Rich, an eponymous label launched in 2017
and worn by such celebrities as Kylie Jenner, Jennifer Lopez and Cardi B. The
space had the look and feel of an archive, allowing shoppers to learn more
about the brands. “We are committed to improving the diversity of the vendors
we partner with, which will help us better serve the needs of our customers,”
stated Chris Wanlass, GM for Nordstrom’s NYC Stores.
The Dr. Marten’s pop-up ran last fall. The music venue setting—complete
with trusses, stage lighting and graffitied furniture—was kicked off with a
live performance by local
band Sunflower Bean that
was livestreamed on @
NordstromNYC and @
drmartensusa. Customers
shopped an limited-
release range of mer-
chandise, including the
new Audrick two-part
platform collection.
On the business side,
Nordstrom’s Q3 sales rose
18 percent over 2020 and
Rock on! The Dr. Marten’s pop at the New York off one percent compared
flagship drew huge crowds.
to 2019. Nordstrom comp
sales in the Southern
regions grew eight percent versus 2019 and outperformed the Northern regions.
Comp sales in suburban stores continued to be stronger than urban areas in
Q3. “We have long benefited from a commitment to customer service, new and
compelling merchandise, innovative brand partnerships and interconnected
digital and physical assets,” stated CEO Erik Nordstrom.
Karl Moehring, CEO of Washington Shoe Company, gives high marks for
Nordstrom’s flexibility at adapting to the challenges faced in 2021. “They
were understanding and a great partner,” he says, noting the two Seattle
natives have been partners for decades. “We took a very proactive approach
in our communication to the buying team with updates regarding inventory
and, in return, they were more accommodating to some of the inventory
shifts due to shipping delays.” Top sellers for the company at Nordstrom
last year included Chooka’s Eastlake Chelsea boot, kids’ glitter boots from
Western Chief and Staheekum slippers.
Another bright spot in 2021, noted Pete Nordstrom, president, involved
combining the art of merchandising with data-driven insights to put
the right assortment in the right place at the right time. Nordstrom also
expanded customer choice counts. Alternative partnership models beyond
grew to nearly eight percent of sales, and the company’s recently announced
partnerships with Fanatics and ASOS will provide a broader assortment in
new and existing categories, without an increase in owned inventory. —G.D.
34 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022
22_03_FW_PIE_14_GD_TM.indd 34
BOOTS: DR. MARTENS
Dr. Martens x Keith Haring
Keep on Rockin’
CLASSIC, AUTHENTIC BRANDS that people trust have fared well during
the pandemic, and Dr. Martens is no exception. A symbol of working-class
pride and rebellious self-expression—not to mention a ’90s fashion revival—
fueled the brand’s growth in 2021. Revenue rose 16 percent worldwide,
driven by strong performance in the Americas.
The classics account for the bulk of Dr. Martens sales. Last year, the Originals
line totaled 57 percent of revenue worldwide. Also of note: the debut of the
Audrick collection, which paired classic uppers with the new Quad Neoteric
sole (stands 1.9 inches tall and features a lightweight EVA midsole on top
of a rugged PVC outsole). The brand also scored big with collabs. Partners
included New York artist Keith Haring and Stüssy. Sustainability was another
focus for Dr. Martens. The company set goals of net zero carbon emissions by
2030 and making all footwear from sustainable materials by 2040.
Here, two leading retailers offer their take on Dr. Martens strength in 2021.
BRIAN BURNETT, SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT/GMM, RACK ROOM SHOES:
How important was Dr. Martens to your business in 2021? Super-
important to our overall success. Dr. Martens helps validate to our customers
that Rack Room Shoes has the best trend-right brands in the marketplace.
What were some popular styles? With the resurgence of the ’90s trend,
specifically starting with combat boots, then the Chelsea boot and now to
elevation, we saw the Dr. Martens’ DNA was a winner.
How has your Dr. Martens customer evolved over the years? From a teen/
young-20ish woman to a more fashion-oriented, spirited customer, where
age nor gender defines them. They’re also certainly more young at heart, and
parents introducing the brand to their kids. Customers today just want to be
trend-right, which allows for more Dr. Martens to be a part of many closets.
What are some other reasons fueling Dr. Martens’ success? Dr. Martens
is an authentic, iconic heritage brand that customers know and trust, which
has emotional and nostalgic ties.
JANICE ABERNETHY, PRESIDENT OF ABBADADDA’S, ATLANTA:
How important was Dr. Martens to your stores’ business in 2021? It
was our No. 3 brand in our three stores combined. Sales were up 12 percent
over 2019 and 26 percent over 2020.
What were some popular selling styles? The Jadon, 1460 8-Eye Smooth,
8-Eye Greasy Leather and Pascal 8-Eye Women’s—all in black.
How has your Dr. Martens customer evolved? Docs used to be more asso-
ciated with a fringe, punkish consumer. Now it’s quite mainstream, and it’s
gotten younger, appealing to the Forever 21 crowd. Docs has always sold well,
but the ’90s look is coming back, and that’s certainly helping fuel its success.
2/26/22 2:32 PM
 SLIPPERS: UGG
Slipper Heights
WITH PEOPLE WORKING remotely in droves and generally staying closer
to home the last two years, Ugg’s slippers have found their way onto more and
more feet. The numbers do not lie: “Based on pre-pandemic global slipper sales
in 2019, the category increased by 99 percent in 2021,” notes Carole Diarra,
vice president of marketing for Ugg, a division of Deckers Brands.
And it wasn’t just slippers. In keeping with the pandemic-era trends toward
comfortable, casual clothing and classic brands, the Ugg brand experienced
an 18 percent global sales spike across all
channels and divisions from 2020 to 2021,
according to Diarra, who discussed some
of the banner year’s greatest hits. —B.S.
What were some of the key highlights
of the year? Our newly launched Tazz
platform slipper proved to be a megahit
with consumers and celebrities. Seen on
the fashionable feet of “it girls” and models Carole Diarra, VP
marketing, Ugg
like Gigi Hadid and Elsa Hosk, fans have
taken to TikTok to showcase how they wear their Tazz mules—a social media
sensation Ugg has seen with the iconic Classic Boot in the past. The Lyst even
named the Tazz the No. 10 hottest women’s style for Q4. A maximalist take on
the timeless Tasman slipper, the Tazz refreshes the familiar silhouette with a
1.5-inch platform sole for boosted cushioning and style. Crafted from the same
rich suede as the original, it’s lined in our signature Uggplush wool blend.
TWO TEN SCHOLARSHIP APPLICATIONS
ARE NOW OPEN
150 $614,000
TWO TEN SCHOLARS
across 32 states to footwear employees and their families
To complete an application
TWOTEN.ORG/SCHOLARSHIPS
22_03_FW_PIE_14_GD_TM.indd 35
We were also very excited to continue working with Telfar, with whom we
announced our collaboration in 2019, and to launch our collaboration with
Denim Tears last month.
In addition to great product, what were some other notable brand initia-
tives introduced in 2021? As a part of our sustainability-focused “Feel Good”
platform, we launched our Uggrenew Classic Boot refurbishment program.
The brand’s surveys have shown that most of our customers wear their Classic
Boots for years, and UGGrenew allows them to love their boots even longer.
To make this happen, we have partnered with NuShoe, a premium shoe repair
company, to offer three levels of dedicated service costing $40, $60 and $80.
Continuing our journey toward a more regenerative world, UGGrenew is
dedicated to extending the life of our customers’ favorite boots, restoring them
by hand with authentic and unparalleled
Ugg materials.
Tazz slipper
What was the biggest surprise of the year?
When we announced our collaboration
with Telfar in 2019, we knew the brand had
an immensely loyal fanbase, but we were
pleasantly overwhelmed with the positive
consumer response and unwavering fervor for
the collection. (As part of the collaboration,
Ugg has adapted various products, includ-
ing several slippers, with the addition of Telfar’s signature “TC” monogram.)
How would you grade your team on its overall performance navigating
through such unprecedented challenges? A+. We always must remember
that there are always going to be hurdles to overcome, but it’s how the team
addresses and tackles a challenge that matters.
IN SCHOLARSHIPS
To learn about our current Two Ten scholars
TWOTEN.ORG/CURRENT-SCHOLARS
2/26/22 2:36 PM
 Quoddy

Spring Step

OK ZOOMERS
Casual, comfortable
and versatile, men’s
indoor/outdoor
slippers are suitable
for zoom meetings
and coffee runs.
Kyrgies

BY A N N LOY N D B U R TO N

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY
TREVETT MCCANDLISS

22_03_FW_MEN_NC_GD_R1.indd 36 2/28/22 2:55 PM

 Lamo

caption

Sanuk

Western Chief

Twisted X

Geox

Rockport

37

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 Minnetonka

Birkenstock

Clarks

38

22_03_FW_MEN_NC_GD_01.indd 38 2/28/22 2:15 PM

 Pajar

Naot
Asportuguesas

Fireside by
Dearfoams

Ecco Florsheim

39

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 Papillio by Birkenstock
shearling slides.

40

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22_03_FW_FASHION.FINAL_OUTLINES.indd 41 2/28/22 6:57 PM
 Fly London sherpa platform
clogs. Opposite: Shearling-lined
moccasin booties by Quoddy.

42

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22_03_FW_FASHION.FINAL_01.indd 43 2/28/22 6:42 PM
22_03_FW_FASHION.FINAL_01.indd 44 2/28/22 6:42 PM
 Gentle Souls by Kenneth Cole
sherpa-lined mules. Opposite,
clockwise from top: Haflinger suede
clog; Fireside by Dearfoams plush
slipper; fur and suede slide by
Aetrex; Minnetonka patterned
shearling slipper.

45

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 46

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 This page, from top: Clarks by
Green Market Services plush
sandal; Arch slide. On model:
Staheekum knit slippers.

47

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 Flexus slipper booties.
Opposite: Cougar
fur-lined slip-ons.

48

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 49
49

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 50

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 Taos wool clogs. Opposite, clockwise
from top: Asportuguesas sherpa-lined
suede platform clog; Acorn fleece
bootie; Naot knit slipper; convertible
slipper with quilted upper by Ecco.

Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton;

model: Cameron Newbill/Supreme
Model Management.; hair and makeup:
Clelia Bergonzoli/Ray Brown Pro.

51

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 U P C L O S E C O M F O RT
New Leader of Earth
Industry veteran Alison Bergen, most recently head
of Aerosoles, takes the reins of the comfort company.
IT IS A job with a world of potential—literally. So
says new Earth OpCo CEO Alison Bergen on why
she jumped at the chance to lead the 52-year-old
comfort company and its portfolio of Earth, Kalso,
Earth Origins and Earth Spirit brands.
Bergen cites Earth’s tremendous history in
wellness and quality, and its strong connection to
the environment as key assets. “With a little bit of
forward-thinking development, the product and
brand are more relevant than ever and that opens up
a tremendous opportunity to connect with a much
broader audience,” she says.
The exec’s first orders of
business: to bring clarity and
focus to Earth 2.0. “What is
the product evolution and who
are the critical partners we can
build deeper, prosperous rela-
tionships with going forward,
be it wholesale distribution or
the consumer directly,” Bergen
says, adding that the goal for
this year is to modernize the
product and reintroduce some
of the better product that was
historically a very important
driver for Earth. “There are so
many incredible advancements in
materials and technology, and we
have a tremendous opportunity to
deliver superior quality—durable,
multi-purpose footwear that
lasts for a lifetime.”
Also on the agenda is strength-
ening the company’s already
strong to commitment to the
environment. “Earth is doing a
lot more than some other brands,
but we can and will be doing a
Earth CEO Alison Bergen; a new hue
lot more to reduce our carbon for this spring from the successful
footprint,” she says. “We feel a Birdline collection.
strong obligation to deliver on
this promise given the weight of our name!” And
while Bergen says not every shoe can be built with
100 percent recycled materials or chemical-free yet,
a concerted effort to swap out components with
more sustainable alternatives when possible and
maintaining a commitment to quality while reducing
impact on the environment will get the company to
a very different place in five to 10 years. “Another
part of this conversation is slow fashion—reducing
52 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022
22_03_FW_UPCLOSE_CMFT_03GD_R1.indd 52
waste and supporting thoughtful consumption—is
as important as making cleaner, more disposable
goods,” she says. “It’s a balance, and we’re still refining
and carving out our path on this front.”
Bergen believes she’s up for the challenge. She
possesses nearly 20 years of experience in the con-
sumer and retail industries, most recently as CEO of
Aerosoles, where she led the company’s turnaround
from post-bankruptcy acquisition in 2018 to its sale
to American Exchange this year. Prior to Aerosoles,
Bergen held leadership positions at Diane Von
Furstenberg, Michael Kors and
Louis Vuitton. She believes her
recent Aerosoles experience is
particularly beneficial. “The
brands share many similar
attributes in product and dis-
tribution, but more so in where
they are in their lifecycle,” she
offers. “Great businesses with a
strong core, talent and relevant
DNA that feel a little out of
relevancy. I love it because just
like Aerosoles, I was able to
provide clarity, direction and
add value both as a merchant—
my true love—on the product
side as well as discipline on the
financial side.”
Then there’s the female execu-
tive perspective—a woman’s
touch that Bergen believes is
needed at Earth. While the
company possesses attractive
qualities in sustainability and
wellness, coupled with it being
a family-owned business for 50
years (last year Windsong Capital
became a majority stakeholder)
that has created a “wonderfully
friendly and organic culture that
we want to preserve,” Bergen says
it needs to be complimented with better discipline.
“We need to listen to our partners where we might
not have been the easiest to work with as a result
of our more fluid process,” she says. “I’m not sure
if that implies a female perspective is helpful, but
as leaders we need to be empathetic, and we need
to organized and multi-task as we drive creative
evolution but also fiscal control. I’ve been told some
women have those traits.” —Greg Dutter
Nice
Threads
Vintage rug boutique
New England Loom
launches wholesale
collection.
IS THAT A rug you’re wearing?
New England Loom, a Wenham, MA, vintage
rug boutique, is stepping into the wholesale shoe
business with a collection of mules featuring
uppers made of colorfully patterned rug remnants,
so no two shoes are alike. Lindsay Graziano,
who owns the business with her husband Josh,
says the extension into footwear, beginning this
fall, happened organically.
“We were chatting with one of our rug whole-
salers in Turkey about purchasing some kilim
rug fragments and I mentioned that they would
be really cool on shoes. And he was like, ‘I know
a guy who does that!’” Graziano says. After
an introduction, work on product molds and
samples began and, a few months later, the
first shipment arrived.
“I was so impressed by the quality. Each pair
is handmade with a lot of time and attention to
detail and we’ve received amazing feedback,”
Graziano says, noting they began featuring
styles on their website about a year and a half
ago. “We load new products onto our website
every Sunday night, and footwear is consistently
among the most sought-after items.”
The mules feature high quality and sustain-
able materials like leather lined, wood block
heels and fragments of vintage kilim rugs
3/21/22 11:33 AM
 U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

Rug facts: No two

New England Loom
mules are aliike.

that are generally too damaged to sell otherwise. “It’s amazing to be able to
repurpose the material and give it new life as shoes,” Graziano says, believing
that part of the appeal lies in the beautiful designs people know and love
in vintage rugs. “They’re also great for adding a pop of color and texture to
any outfit. We joke that they are finally the rugs you can rock inside and
outside of the house.”
Now the couple is thinking bigger with the launch of a wholesale collec-
tion. Production is done in small batches of about 250 pairs per order, giving
the company the ability to scale up or down as needed. Graziano says the
distribution is focused on retailers that sell other unique and one-of-a-kind
items to a more boho customer. Targets include Anthropologie, Free People
and Urban Outfitters. “Because no two shoes are alike, they’re also a great fit
for smaller, more curated boutique retailers,” she adds. The SRP is $189 for
heeled styles and $165 for flats. As for potential target customers, the appeal
has been broad so far, according to Graziano. “We’re seeing a wide range of
women aged 25 to 65 buying one—or more—pairs,” she reports.
New England Loom has already expanded its offerings to include handmade
kilim duffel bags and fanny packs with the same supplier. Looking further
out, the plan is to expand into kilim sandals at some point. In the meantime,
the mule patterns change from season to season based on the rug fragments
used. “There’s a market for sustainable, unique and fresh shoes that repre-
sent the season’s hottest trends,” Graziano says. “While mules are an industry
standard, our colors and patterns offer consumers a one-of-a-kind look that
ties in with current trends.” —G.D.

YOUR BRAND.
YOUR STYLE.
YOUR PARTNER.
Specialists in Indoor/Outdoor Slippers and Casual Footwear
www.greenmarketservices.com © 2022 Green Market Services Co., Inc.

22_03_FW_UPCLOSE_CMFT_03GD.indd 53 2/25/22 11:16 AM


D E S I G N E R C H AT
M A R I O N AY O N OT E
MAYBE IT WAS Marion Ayonote’s first shoe-
related memory that planted the seeds to her
becoming a successful designer. Specifically,
the magenta pink stilettos that the, then 12
year old, “wore everywhere” while attending
boarding school until the day that one of the
heels snapped. Ayonote loved the shoes so
much that she tried to fix them—with a ham-
mer and some bubble gum. (True story.)
Ayonote hammered the protruding nail back into the heel and
glued the shoe back together with the gum. She flew home in her
beloved pink heels, but as she got off the plane, she noticed her
sister laughing uncontrollably. “Apparently, the bubble gum was
all over my ankle,” she recalls. “It was so embarrassing. I limped
to the car and knew I’d never wear them again.”
Fast forward to 2000 when the Cordwainers College alumnae
launched her eponymous label and, in the two decades since, has
built a strong following. Those fans include what Ayonote describes
as HNW (high net worth) women, some of whom happen to also
be celebrities such as Tyra Banks, Keri Hilson, Gabrielle Union,
Kelly Clarkson, Ashanti, Christina Milian and Lady Gaga’s stylist
who bought the Conqueror boot for the Joanne tour.
Ayonote is known for her striking silhouettes, decorative detailing
and playful design—all wearable and whimsical in equal measure.
Asked about signature design elements and Ayonote answers,
“Shape, form, balance and texture.” She adds, “The aqua sole, a
raised tongue symbolic of a shield, unique heel shapes, trimmings
and the finest quality leather available.”
Ayonote taps into her rich cultural heritage for design inspira-
tion. That spans her childhood in Africa, extensive travel (including
many flea markets along the way), an international education and
being a patron of the arts. It is a potpourri of experience that the
award-winning designer dips into each season for her Italian-crafted
collections. For Autumn/Winter ’22, the overall theme is dressage.
“Navy, crimson, black, brown, cream and gold,” Ayonote says of the
season’s palette. “And suede, kidskin and metallics, pointed toe
boots, square toe sandals and bespoke heel shapes.”
Who is the Marion Ayonote woman and what is she looking
for in her shoe purchases? She is sophisticated, digitally savvy
and most importantly, selective about the brands she buys. She is
intelligent, well-informed, favors authenticity and seeks the finest
quality footwear.
Where do you look for inspiration? Anything that captivates me.
54 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022
22_03_FW_SHOE_SALON_02GD.indd 54
EDITOR’S PICKS
Aetrex
Alegria
Cougar
ARE YOU P LUSH I NG ?
Fuzzy slippers will be the envy of everyone.
In what way might your background be
an asset in the designer shoe world? I’m
not entirely sure, but I get told my cultural
heritage is an advantage to how I interpret
my work. Nevertheless, I believe in creative
freedom, the ability to absorb what’s around
you or what you imagine something to be,
and interpret it in a way your mind allows
you to. In addition to form and function,
there needs to be excitement.
Has the pandemic altered your approach
to design? It’s tricky as I specialize in occa-
sion footwear. However, I have expanded the
range to include lounge loafers and slippers.
How was business this past year—the
good, the challenges, the surprises?
The good: I had time to restrategize my
future goals. The challenges: the after-
math of an 18-month lockdown and the
knock-on effect for the plans we had set
for 2020/21. The surprises: orders for the
more expensive handbags and some very
exciting opportunities for the brand moving
forward. I’m cautiously optimistic about
2022 and our plan for scaling up.
Jambu
E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S
What was the best piece of design advice
you’ve ever received? A very famous shoe
designer, who acted as a mentor, advised
me to focus on my work, not draw attention
to self and not look at what others are doing.
Who are some designers you admire?
Golly, there are quite a few. I think Roland
Mouret is brilliant, Phoebe Philo, Manolo
Blahnik, of course, and an amazing
Nigerian designer, Deola Sagoe. They all
have one thing in common: authenticity!
What is the perfect shoe? A perfectly
crafted, almond toe stiletto.
What shoe must every woman have in
her closet? A perfectly crafted, almond
toe stiletto, or our Conqueror boot.
What shoe style needs to die now? LOL!
Badly crafted platforms with shiny patent
uppers. Hideous.
What do you love most about designing
shoes? The reaction I get from those who
make them and those who want them.
2/25/22 11:29 AM
 continued from page 18
the company about improving diversity in their product cycle and mentioned
his plans to reopen an HBCU in Detroit. The retailer offered to contribute
funds, and is now a founding partner. “They immediately understood the
importance of what this could mean for our industry,” Edwards says. That
support led to the partnership with CCS, an established design school that
offers larger infrastructure and guidance.
Still there have been hurdles. For starters, the HBCU had been closed for
eight years, so it needed to be accredited. That required creating a bill, because
there were no laws in Michigan that allowed a college that had closed to reopen.
Also, the state had never officially recognized Lewis College of Business as
an HBCU. That meant another bill. “In two months, we wrote and got two
legislative bills passed,” Edwards says. “That’s lightning-quick.”
Edwards attributes the expediency in making PLC a reality to its importance
to Michigan and the design industries. Seeing it all come together is a dream
come true, he says. “We’re officially recognized as an HBCU. The Gilbert
Family Foundation and Target have blessed us with a huge jump start to get
to this point along with CCS. Without them, none of this would be happening.”

SCENE 6: BRIGHT FUTURE

6
PLC’s first class is this May, sponsored by Carhartt, a Detroit
brand. Additional five-week classes on the docket this year are
sponsored by New Balance, Versace, Jimmy Choo, Adidas, J. Crew,
Proctor & Gamble and a Nike program with Serena Williams. “We’ll create
a semester program starting this fall, where kids who live nearby can take
classes one day a week,” Edwards says. “In the fall of ’23, we’ll start working
toward our own degree program and begin to add majors like furniture and
automotive design, packaging and graphics.”
PLC will initially be housed in the CCS building. Foot Locker is funding the
footwear samples room. Hanes is building the apparel samples room. Herman
Miller is providing furniture for the main studio. “We have amazing partners
that believe in the vision of what PLC will be for our industry,” Edwards says,
adding that students will stay in the St. Regis Hotel until dormitories are
built on a new campus.
The fact that PLC has gotten this far, this fast defies the odds. Never in
Edwards’ wildest dreams, as a poor kid in Inglewood, did he foresee this
wonderful life unfolding. “That’s why I’m so grateful every day,” he says. “I feel
like I’m winning every day, because I’m not supposed to be here.”
NPD industry analyst Matt Powell, says the reason Edwards is here starts
with his tremendous design talent. “There are few sneaker designers who have
shoes available for as long as Dr. Edwards has; his legacy speaks for itself,” he
says, noting that his efforts to help people of color adds to that legacy. “This
latest venture will solidify his work.”
PLC is just the latest chapter in Edwards’ odds-defying career. He’s creat-
ing an incredible industry legacy, and there’s much more to come. Not bad
for the former mailroom guy at LA Gear. “Seeing what Mr. D’Wayne has
accomplished, inspiring would be a harsh understatement,” his former stu-
dent Johnson says. “D’Wayne is a revolutionary icon living in today’s time.
My hope is that people recognize the great, selfless work he is doing to elevate
aspirational creatives—more importantly, aspirational creatives of color. I am
extremely blessed and proud to call myself a protégé of one of the greatest
men of our time.”
High praise, indeed. Then again, it’s not every day someone changes an
entire industry in a way that benefits everyone involved. “When I left Jordan
I wrote down three things,” Edwards says. “One, make people forget I ever
designed shoes, because if do, then I did something really good on the other
side. Two, design the school that I wish I’d been able to attend and I’d hire
from. Three, leave this industry way better than when I entered it.
“That’s been my journey the whole time,” Edwards says, noting he has only
one regret. “I would love to sit down again with my two brothers, Michael and
Ronnie, because they were the ones who taught me how to draw. I’m having
the career that they didn’t have a chance to have.” Edwards adds, “It’s been
an unexpected life that I’ve been blessed to have. And I’m not done yet.” •

22_03_FW_PROFILES_ACHIEVEMENT_08GD_TM_GD.indd 55 2/28/22 5:51 PM

 L A S T S HO T Hide Times

Dear Zoo
Wild slippers for bedtime stories.
Top, left to right: Enjoiya, Aetrex.
Bottom, left to right: Taos, Vionic, Quoddy, Naot.

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I SS

56 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2022

22_03_FW_LAST_SHOT_04GD_TM.indd 56 2/26/22 7:44 AM

 Congratulations to
Congratulations to
D’wayne Edwards
on recieving the
Footwear
FootwearNews
Plus
Lifetime
Achievement Award!
Available 5/1
floafers.com
732-807-1900
info@floafers.com

FLOAFERS AD REVISE.indd 3 2/28/22 6:02 PM

 Featur ing Aetr ex or thotic suppor t and me mor y foam cushioning for supe r ior comfor t

FOP MAR 2022.indd 4 2/25/22 10:58 AM