WHALER Owner's Manual (NOLSOP ~~" STTVHM Pe WHALER /Table of Contents Page Operations: Engine Installation 1 Tilt Pin Adjustment 2 Trim Tab Adjustment 3 Propeller Selection 4 Steering System Maintenance. 5 Battery Installation 7 Auxiliary Engines 8 Fuel Tank installation 9 Electronics: Fathometer Installation 4 Radios. 13 Hull Attachments: Fastenings to the Hull in 13 19' and 21° : 15 Ski Hitches. 15 Towing 15 Maintenance: Gelcoat 16 Electrical Wiring 5 17 Anti-Fouling Bottom Paint. 18 Care of Canvas 9 Zippers 19 Care of Hardware 20 Care of Varnish a 2. Refinishing Varnish 20 Care of Teak 2 Trailers 21\TRODUCTION: ‘This manual is intended to acquaint you with the proper operation and maintentance of your Boston Whaler. It is impossible, in one manual, to cover all the questions that ‘may oecur in the operation of your eraft. We try to cover the most important ones, and the information here is based on questions we have received from customers throughout the years ‘This manual does not go into the facets of safe boating or the requirements of State and Federal Regulations. This does not mean that we do not endorse boating safety, for ‘we do, very highly. It does mean that we are incapable of providing the necessary State Requirements to each individual, and we realize chat excessive duplication of Federal Standards may eause a lack of interest or confusion on the owner's part With each boat, we insert a Coast Guard publication CG-200. This contains federal requirements for recreational boats and deals in depth with such subjects as numbering requirements, boating accident reports, personal flotation devices and other federal roquired equipment for pleasure craft. If your copy has been misplaced, please write to tus, and we will se that you reevive one, In addition to federal requirements, it is your responsiblity as a boat owner to be acquainted with state operating regulations. In many eases, you will find that the ‘equipment requirements forthe various states excoed what is required by federal law. ‘Examples might be bailers, oars, boarding ladders and certain waterski equipment. ‘This information is obtained through the bureau that registers your boat and would be available upon request to the appropriate state office. For those who are new to boating, we recommend that you ask your dealer to take you for a demonstration ride to acquaint you with launching and loading your boat from a trailer and with the operating eharacteristies of your engine and engine control. Have him take you out onto the body of water which you'll be operating on, and have him ‘explain seakeeping abilities and what your Boston Whaler will and won't do. One of the greatest services to new boatmen is the various instructional courses available through the United States Coast Guard Auxillary and the U.S. Power ‘Squadron. Both these organizations offer fine courses, available free, not only for the novice boatman, but the experienced man as well. The local Coast Guard Auxiliary can be contacted by writing the appropriate Coast Guard District, listed on the back of the Coast Guard's publication, CG-290: and the nearest U.S. Power Squadron can be contacted by dialing atoll free number, 800-243-6000 or writing United States Power Squadrons, 50 Craig Road, Montvale, New Jersey 07615. In addition to learning boating practices and regulations, you will also get to meet other boaters, The information ‘ined during the bull sessions, in many respects, will be as helpful to you as some of the information given to you by the instructor. Personal experiences and even hard- ships wil all add up to making you a better boster. Since we eannot explain everything in this brief manual, we encourage you to ask your Boston Whaler dealer to clarify anything you don't understand. He's in business to ‘ensure that your investment in 8 Boston Whaler isnot only gratifying but meaningful in terms of after sale service. OPERATIONS Engine Installation In most cases, the dealer will have installed your outboard motor, following all the prescribed practices by Boston Whaler and the engine manufacturer. Should you be ‘making the installation yourself, the following isa guide. 9 Squall — The Squall is built with wood molded into the transom so small engines ‘of 8 horsepower of less can be clamped directly onto the transom, without the ‘need of tabs or plates. If your outboard engine has a single clamp, then it should be ‘mounted to the Fight or to the let of the stainless stee! gudgeon plate which is molded into the transom. Stainless isa shiny, smooth surface, and clamping directly to it may cause the engine to slip or the gudgeon plate to lose its spring tension. If this occurs, the rudder pintle would not lock into place, and eapsizing of the boat would result in the rudder being lost overboard 11,18, 16° and 17° — The outboard engine should be clamped directly onto the transom Without the use of eushioning pads, as these have a tendency to destroy the gripping effect of the outboard motor bracket ‘The transom core is sold plywood with a thick layer of Sberglass on the inside and out. ‘The engine, when clamped tightly, will bite into this fiberglass, doing no harm, yet affording 2 good hold forthe engine. The motor clamps should be periodically checked And re tightened, especially during the fist several hours of operation. This will eause the clamps to bite deeper into the fbergiass on the front face of the transom for added security Some outboard manufacturers recommend that their engines be bolted onto the ‘ransom in addition to clamping, Where space permits, this is entirely satisfactory. ‘There may be some installations where the lower bolt hole penetrates the transom below the level ofthe inside splashwell, affording no way of attaching the washer and nut. In these installations its satisfactory to use galvanized or bronzed lag bots of 2 to 2lé ches in length 17, 19’and 21° — Chrysler and Sereury outboards clamp onto the transom, and bolting information contained above will be applicable, OMC engines (Johnson and Evinrude) 50 horsepower and above utilize a method of attachment wherein the engine is bolted to the transom. Space has been provided on our 17,19" and 21’ boats for these engine bolts, and the engine manufacturer's drilling template ean be used. These templates provide a primary and secondary hole position and you will find in some applications that the Secondary hole position is necessary in order for the bolts to pass into the splashwellOn our 19" and 21° boats, dual engines can be installed. We strongly recommend our dus) engine tie-bar kits, offered in three sizes, each designed for a particular engine oF boat installation. These tie-bar kts come complete with installation instructions and drilling templates for mounting bol-holes (OMC). These instruetions must be followed; failure ‘to-do so will result in improper boat handling and operation, Dual Engine installation * S » a.) / ent Cate eee Cnt sae © Lae Ti Pin Adjustment ‘The engine tlt pin adjustment not only influences the boat's handling charactoristes, but also its steering loads. ‘The tilt pin should be set so thatthe cavitation plate is parallel with the bottom of the bost. This ean be determined by looking st the boat and engine in profile, with the boat sitting level on trailer. The engine should hang vertically and the eavitation plate, when sighted from the back, should follow the parallel lines ofthe Po bottom, Alter the boat is waterborne, and with normal loads on board, experiment by moving ‘ho tilt pin in and out one notch at a time. When moved closer to the transom, it will ‘push the how down, making the boat slower and wetter. Moving the tilt pin away’ from {he transom will raise the bow, inereasing your performance and making the boat drier. will be well uring this operation if you could havea friend operate the boat while you stand in another boat or ashore. You will dramatically see the influence the tit pin has ‘onthe boats, particularly the 13's, 15's and 17's. You will also see how the boat planes * Sample only. Consult latest updated Dwg. before installation 2 much cleaner when the tlt pin is moved away from the transom and the boat is planing with a bow-high attitude. Dring this operation, you will see the adjustment aso influ. ences the pul on the steering wheel. Once you have decided on the correct angle, it may be necessary to readjust the trim tab to neutralize engine pull ‘Trim Tab Adjustment On larger outboard motors, there is trim tab located on the bottom of the eavitation plate just alt of the propellor. It is adjustable and has been installed on the engine to ‘assist in compensating for propellor torque. [Adjustment ofthe trim tab should he done after you've gone through the steps of proper tilt pin adjustment, ‘The boat should he operated with a normal losd on board and in a straight line. Incorrect trim tab adjustment wil equse the boat to veer tothe left orto the right when ‘your hands are removed from the steering wheel. Be eareful when removing your hand from the wheel because a trim tab incorrectly positioned may cause the boat to veer violently ‘Toadjust the trim tab, loosen the securing bolts, following the engine manufaeturer's instructions, and move the trim ‘tab inthe direction thatthe boat pulls: For example, ifthe boat pulls to starboard, move the traling edge of the trim tab to starboard.* Make these adjustments in small increments and test the results. You are attempting to create a neutral helm position for the speed in which you will normally be operating. It may not be possible to eliminate propelior torque through all ranges of boat acceleration, and a compromise setting will have to be established Remember that tilt pin adjustment may effect torque as much as the trim tab does. With outboard engines equipped ‘with power trim, this becomes particularly important. When linder way, experiment with trim setting to neutralize propellor torque. ‘Trim- 11° — When using engines of 9% horsepower, weights should be balanced evenly between the center thwart seat and the rear platform seat, When horsepower is increased to 15 oF 20 horsepower, weights, including passengers and fuel tank, should ‘be moved aft for maximum performance, Weights forward will euse the boat to go slower and produce a wetter ride. Trim - 13° — The 13! Whaler should have weights aft during high speed operations. In choppy water, when running slowly, shift the weight forward to trim the boat nearly level. Ifthe bow is trimmed too high, it will give an uncomfortable ride, If tis trimmed too low, it will throw spray on board. When bucking very strong head winds, move ‘weights forward to prevent becoming air borne. The engine tlt adjustment effects trim * See photoand must normally be set so the propellor shaft almost parallel to the keel. On Johnson and Evinrude engines, this is the last hole out; on other engines, check by ‘sighting the cavitation plate with the boat out of water. When alone, running slowly into chop, adjust the tilt pin one notch closer to the transom to keep the bow down, ‘Trim - 17" — The bow of the 17” Whaler should be kept light and high for a dry and comfortable ride, It also produces faster speeds. To raise the bow, any or all of the following methods should be used: 1, move passengers aft: 2. reposition engine tilt farther away from the transom: 8. slow down, In acrosswind, the boat tends to lean to windward with consequent wetness, Combat this by shifting weights to leeward. You should experiment. with trim until you tnderstand these effects ‘Trim - 19" and 21°— Like the 17" Whaler, these should be trimmed with the bow light and high. Performance will inerease and the ride will be drier, particularly when the ‘wind is blowing hard and throwing spray. Engines equipped with power trim wil have some influence on 19s. However, they will have very little trimming effect on 21's because of this boat's long and straight bottom lines. When heavy coolers oF excess passengers are earrid, they should always be aft. Propeller Selection A necessary instrument for judging performance of your engine boat combinations tachometer avalable fom the engine manufactarer aan option or borrowed frm the marine dealer who sold you the engine. Some deslers are ‘auiped with portable units, and all dolar sould tach ot ‘new engine installation to make sure engine and boat are Dy Performing stiafactority When selecting the correet propeller, tell your dealer what typeof boating you will be doing. Will you be carrying five persons on board, or will you be operating the majority ‘ofthe time by yourself? Will you be wanting acceleration for water skiing, or top speed With light loads? These are all important factors for propeller selection. ‘The propeller selected should be one which allows the outboard to turn up to its maximum rated RPM with a light load on board. The engine Owner's Manual will ell you what your maximum operating RPM is, both maximum and minimum, Avoid choosing propellers which wil allow the engine to exceed the maximum RPM. Conversely, don't choose one which forees the engine to gor strain to meet its desired RPM setting, ‘The correct propeller will not only give you good performance, but it wil also save you fuel and reduce engine wea. Steering System Maintenance (a) Palley steering system ‘The remote stooring 11’ and 18° models are equipped with a eable and pulley steering system, We have used this system since 1968 because of its simplicity and durability. Adjustments must be periodically made, and oteasional maintenance or renewal of ‘components, beeause of wear, is necessary In order to avoid unexpected lss of steering. We have used two types of steering systems, as shown below. Each system has common maintenance requirements (Cable Tension Steering Systems 1972 and earlier (15” transom) ‘These boats are equipped with a single strong spring on the starboard side only. A spring on tho port side ean stretch and permit unexpected oversteer on a port turn, particularly if the boat skide and then grabs. ‘This possibility is. present in a port turn only beeause the ‘operator is apt to be sitting on the starboard side and ‘opposing the normal banking of the boat with his weight. Tf the tiller rope on the port side i solid, this oversteering can't take place. ‘The single spring must be equipped with = toggle tightener. When tighlener is closed, and the tiller rope adjusted properly, the spring should be compressed Vs to % ofits normal open length. This insures proper tension and precise steering. Release the toggle when the engine is tilted to avoid overstressing the steering components, Steering Systems 1972 and later (20” transom) ‘These boats also use a single tiller spring on the starboard side, However, because of the high transom steering geometry allows engine tilting without the use of a toggle tighlener, This system offers a greater mechanical advantage, ‘With a single spring and no toggle tightener, itis necessary = that proper tension be maintained on the cable assembly [ames This 16 accomplished by tensioning the eable so that the spring is closed one half of its length. This will give a “satisfactory steering response and the tension inthe spring itself wil be sufficient to pick up slaekness in the eables when the engine is tilted. If proper spring tension isnot maintained, the cable system will loosen and come off the grooved steerer drum, (UD) Cable Maintenance ‘The iler cable used on older boats was blue and had a vinyl covering over a steel wire core. This covering should be checked for eracks which wil let water enter and cause corrosion of the cable. When replacement is necessary, it should be replaced with black tlle eable which is nylon covered with a stainless core. We've tused the black cables on 1's since 1972. ‘This is substantially more durableUl) Palley Pin Maintenance Pulleys should be lubricated periodically, using ‘graphite, marine grease or silicone spray such as CRC or WD40, The pulley pins should be periodically {inspected to check for wear, and replaced if this occurs (see diagram for example of west) (8) Mechanical Steering Systems ‘Throughout the years we have used various manufacturers’ mechanical steering systems on our 17, 19" and 21° boats. The manufseturer ean be identified by the color of the steerer cable. This information is nocossary if you require replacement of any of the steerer components — Black Steerer Cable — American Chain and Cable Blue or White Steerer Cable — Teleflex Red Steerer Cable — Morse Control Boston Whaler installs, inthe correct postion, the steerer transom bracket. Also supplied with each new boat isa detailed instruction sheet showing how the steering system should be connected to the engine, These instructions must be followed ‘explicitly, for they have been designed for proper steering geometry and to insure ‘that the engine does not strike or interfere with the steering arm when the engine is tilted STEERER CONNECTION WNSTRUCTIONS * surport tube @ um © Laaatr sotne © tex we © ‘Throughout the years we also have used numerous ball joints as a method of steerer connection to the engine, but more recently we have designed ball joint connections to ‘our specifications. Ball joints used for the last two years have been stainless steel land are of a captive design, In other words, even if the ball of the joint fails, the stainless steel shaft is installed in such a manner that there is no way for the steerer connection to come apart. Older boats that might be equipped with a quick diseonnect release, or ball joints which may have become rusted, should be replaced with our new stainless unit. Remember, when connecting to the engine, follow installation instructions explicitly. ‘Sample only. Consult latest Dwg. before instalation. 6 Instructions reproduced here are current at the time of manual publication and are referred to only as a guide. When a replacement ball joint is shipped to the field, the kit contains the latest information based on continuously updated technology Battery Installs ‘Asa general rule, batteries on Boston Whalers should be located aft for best weight trim, Thisis also the softest riding portion of the boat where there is less danger of the battery bouneing or being damaged. Provision has been made on all 195, 18's, 1's, 19's and 21's for the installation of batteries. This is inthe form ofa special wood pad molded under the fiberglass floor to accopt the screw fastening of the battery box floor cleats, Represented below are in- stallation photos for each size boat. When making the installation, consult your wood. locating diagram (included in Owner's Package with boat) for exact location of the wood ‘mounting pad. Mounting the battery floor cleats where they do not secure into wood will result ia the fastenings toaring through the fiberglass. Batteries should be enclosed in a battery box, as shown. The covers should be strapped on, or otherwise socured in place. Do not drill any holes in the battery box cover. In the event of a swamping, this cover forms an air pocket in much the same manner as an inverted glass ina sink of water. Some water will enter the bos, but the air pressure will prevent it from coming up to battery terminal height 19° Boats 19" Outrage 19° Revenge: 21° OutrageAuxiliary Engines Pony motors will not give the boat sufficient power to plane. They should be equipped with @ very low pitch propellor for anticipated performances in the vicinity of six to ten miles per hour. Because of its loeation off the center line and its limited power, the use of a pony rotor in heavy sea conditions ean be difficult. During rough running, the pony motor, when up, may be lashed to prevent it from inadvertently bounding out ofits tlt loek and dropping down. (a) 13-foot All recent 13's, those with a tan interior have provision ‘on the port side ofthe transom for clamping a pony motor {long shaft) directly onto the transom. Looking atthe inside face of the transom, you will seo a slight impression, and when consulting your wood locating diagram, you will see that there is a wood bleck molded into the transom for this purpose. Clamp the pony motor onto the boat without benefits of pads so a8 to allow the engine clamps to dig into the fiberglass, eresting a good hold (b) 1Tfoot (On ail 17 there is a special pony mount provision located ‘on the starboard side of the transom. You will observe an {impression on the front face of the transom, and this area is designated specifically for the pony motor clamps. The engine should be clamped directly onto the transom, and allowed to bite into the fiberglass for good holding power. ‘The pony motor should be a long shaft version ‘The engine will cant inward because of the camber angle ‘ofthe top transom surface, This ean be left as is, and will do no harm, For those desiring a more cosmetically agreeable installation, a small shim ean be mounted under the starboard engine bracket, raising it slightly. We do not recommend the complications of attempting to mount a dual engine tie bar for the pony motor as this is an unnecessary nuisance. When using the pony motor, it ean be left in the straight ahead position, and you will find that the large engine, left in the down position in neutral, acts as a good rudder. Clutch and throttle movement of the pony motor ean be accomplished by walking aft and making these adjustments, although some owners have elected to install a dual Morse control lever oa the console of convenience. (e) 194toot ‘The transom of 10sis flat and wide so thatthe installation of « pony motor creates no problem. When referring to the wood locating diagram, you will see that the wood spans the transom theough its entire Nat surface. Pony motors ean be clamped to the right or the let side of the main engine with no difficulty (@) 21-foot Because ofthe transom design of our 21° models, the rear sponson extensions prohibit the installation ofa pony motor dlireetly onto the transom beside the main engite Instead we have designed a pony motor brackot (photo) ‘This bracket is only for new style 21's. It is designed for short shaft engines, and because of its location will not permit the installation of our stern lifting eye set in the standard position. ‘Tank Installation la) Hoot On the 17, the fuel tank may be carried either forward of aft or the eenter thwart seat. The determining factor will be weight on board and the desired trimming effec. Inall cases, the fuel tank should rest on one of our fuel tank mats. This will preveat the tank from marring the deck, ether by bouncing or rust bleed. () 13 and 15-foot Six-gallon tanks are best stored behind the rear seat. There is room for a battery and two tanks with their long axes fore and aft. The tanks should be placed on our fuel tank mats to prevent marring the deck, The same postion applis tothe 15° except that 12 gallon tanks may replace 6s if larger range is desire. (6) Toot Space has been provided on 17" Whalers to allow the use of 12-gallon tanks. Manu facturers making tanks to suit this purpose, and fitting our fuel tank mats, are Tempo (Model BW.12}, Mirax (Model MBW-12), and Boattank (Model 1212-C)For best trim, the tanks should be stored in spocfie spaces provided on our 17 boats. Wood console bosts, such as Nauset or Sakonnet, should have the fuel tanks stored under the console. On other boats, such as Montauk and Katama, space has been provided under the pilot seat for tank storage. ‘The tanks built to our specifications have the fil eap vent located in the center of the tank. This locaton lessens the chance of gasoline spillage out of the tank vent itself ‘When filing, the tanks are sid aft just far enough to expose and remove this eap vent. Bring the fuel hose on board and fll the tank insuring that the fl nozzle remains in continuous contact with the tank itself. In this way, any stati electricity that may develop during the filling operation travels back up the fuel fill line to the pump and fground. Unlike permanent tanks, you ean see the level of the fuel as you are filling and, thus ean avoid spillage. Boston Whalers are open boats having no bilges to entrap hazardous gasoline fumes. ‘The filing operation described above, conscientiously handled, offers the same degree of safety as removing the tank from the boat and filing it on the dock. Portable 12-gallon tanks meet Coast Guard requirements concerning. ventilation because the tanks are not enclosed and they are installed in an open boat. They also reet the Coast Guard Auxiliary requirements for award of a Courtesy Inspection Decal {since 1968 revision of CG 290 Courtesy Examiners Handbook). (4) 19-fo0t and 21-foot ‘The fuel tank is permanently installed under the cockpit lor, just aft of the control console, A lange hatch opening, serewed in place, outlines the tank configuration beneath, ‘The tanks are aluminum, They are set into a molded fiberglass cavity which is integral with the inside skin of the fiberglass hull. There are no openings in this eavity ‘o,f the tanks should ever spring a leak, the fuel would never propagate to the hull foam. ‘The tank is set onto Micarta strips on tho bottom of the cavity. These support the tank and prevent abrasion, There isa space of approximately three-quarters ofan inch between the wall of the tank and the wall of the fiberglass cavity. On four sides, this is filled with a gasoline impervious foam. This holds the tank in place and also fills any voids which would accumulate gasoline fumes. ‘Two large aluminum bars are placed on top of the tank to prevent any vertieal movement. The top of the tank is then covered with a flexible foam to fill any voids between the tank and its cover. CAUTION: Your wood locating diagram should be consulted before any driling, or the securing f seats or other fastenings, is done to the tank top eover. When driling for serews or other fastenings is necessary, the drill should have a stop to prevent penetration of the fuel tank itself 10 ‘The fuel tank is provided with a withdrawal fitting in the motor well. A 90° bronze elbow should be used to direet the fuel hose connection downward. This prevents accidental damage if a person should step in that area. ‘A quick disconnect fitting can then be secured into the elbow, ora fuel hose barb ean be inserted. We prefer the barb because it gives a postive fuel hhose conneetion and prevents any alr leaks in the {uel system. The fuel hose to the engine is shortened with the primer bulb as elose tothe fuel withdrawal iting as possible A filter primer can also be installed. This is particularly useful for separating waver ‘whieh may accumulate ina permanent fuel tank installation, and also acts as a sediment filter. Consult your dealer for detals. ‘When filing the fuel tank, insure a proper oil and gasoline mixture. If oil is added directly to tank, it will immediately settle to the bottom of the tank and clog the fuel ‘withdrawal tube. Your outboard motor will un satisfactorily until the fuel in its filter bow! is consumed; then i will svc oll from the tank and stall out. Diseonnecting the fuel line from the tank will reveal straight ol in liew of gasoline. ‘To prevent improper oll mix, use a funnel (preferably with a strainer) mixing your oi with your gasoline. "The fue tankis provided with an electrical gauge and sending unit. The sending unit in the tank is exposed by removing the 6 inch white diameter cover in the middle of the fuel tank hatch, The electrical sending unit is removable from the tank for repair or replacement, On newer models, this sending unit is covered with a layer of heavy ‘grease. This prevents corrosion ofthe electrical terminals onthe sending unit. Repairs to the unit should always be followed by re-packing with grease. Fuel tanks, prior to installation, are air tested for leaks. After the tank has been installed in the boat and all the fittings attached to the tank, itis again pressure tested to insure the entire system is airtight, When the tank cover and vent covers are installed, they are sealed in RTV and the intial installation is reasonably tight against ‘water entering into the top ofthe tank cavity. However, movement of the boat during rough water operations may cause the sealant to leak and some water may accumulate ‘on the top surface of the fuel tank. This is normal and we've taken adequate precautions the use of non-corrosive materials to prevent any harmful effects. ELECTRONICS Fathometer Installation Depth finders will work at high speeds, serving the important function of contin uuously recording depths and also serving as a navigation aid. To accomplish this, the transducer must be mounted on the transom. Transducers that penetrate the bottom are difficult or impossible to install on Boston Whalers, ereate turbulence when running fat high speeds, and interfere with trailer operation.‘When transom-mounted, the transducer must be ‘of a design for that purpose. Water flowing along ‘the bottom of the boat must pass along the trans ducer face in such a manner thet no turbulence 4s ereated. The transducer must be mounted flush ‘and contiguous with the boat’s bottom, or of a design to penetrate the flow of water as shown in the photo at lft Mount the transducer to the right or the left of the centerline at a point where the bottom of the boat is nearly Mat. Be sure that the transducer is notin the path of any fin keels on the bottom of the boat, Using a straight edge, place this on the bottom ofthe boat and bring the transducer face down so that it just touches this mark, Insure that no portions ofthe leading edge of the transducer penetrate below the Dottom of the hull If there is an appreciable space between the transducer and the ‘tailing edge of the boat's bottom. This space should be filed either with compound or a fering piece. Remember, the seeet in transducer success is to insure that a smooth flow of water contacts the transducer face. It may be necessary for you to defleet the trailing tedge of the transducer to insure contact with solid water. Experiment with this, ‘The Lowrance transducer (shown) is designed to hang down below the boat's bottom. It's hydrodynamieally designed to pierce the flow of water. Installation of this transducer should be per the manufacturer’ instructions. ‘The area where you will be mounting the transducer on the transom does not contain ‘wood inserts, The fiberglass skin, however, is suitably strong for such fastenings as Stainless stee! sheet metal serews or pop rivets. The area behind the fiberglass is ‘completely filled with foam so water entry is of no concern, However, some elect to ed transducor-mounting brackets in marine compound. Engine interference often causes an array of false signals. Some fathometers offer special filters with suppressors to minimize this. Use of a separate dry-eell battery mounted close to the instrument wil reduee interference. Choose the location ofthe depth finder carefully Temporarily mount it on top of the console and tura it on to determine what influence it will have on compass deviation. If ‘deviation does show up, move the sounder as far away as practical. If deviation cannot be completely eliminated, record this influence at various headings with the fathometer on and off, ‘Transom mounted transducers, when installed on 17s, will act as mini-trim tabs. The size ofthe transducer itself will determine its effect on boat trim. However, even the smallest, at high speed, will hve some elfeet. Accordingly, mount the transducer on the battery side ofthe bost, or the side on whieh the boat might lst when at rest. All things being equal for straight line trim, it might be necessary to installa trim tab on the opposite side of the transducer to counteract its effect Radios [A marine VHF radio or a CB radio should be mounted in a protected location. Special brackets oF shelves may have to be designed to properly house the radio. ‘The antenna installation on our open boats i positioned to fit between the windshield zipper joint of the fying top set, This allows radio communication when all eanvas is fying. Radio antennas with a universal-type base must be bolted to the console. Serew fastenings will not hold. When bolting to the console, provide a substantial backing block behind the area where you're fastening. Make sure that the bolts are equipped with lock sashers, or preferrably aireraft-type lock nuts, as the antenna will be Subject to continuous whipping motion HULL ATTACHMENTS ‘There may be times when you want to add eustom accessories to your boat. This should be done with due regard for information from the factory “Accessories subject to stress, such as seats, consoles, etc., should not be attached ‘except in areas that have wood inserts in the hull. Wood locating diagrams have been Included inthe owner's package ofeach new boat, or are available from the factory upon request. Samples as shown below are for reference only. They are continually updated and, when reeeived, yours will be applicable to your specific boat. (a) Fastenings to the Hull - 9,11, 13, 15° and 17 Fastening heavy accessories to the glass skin, is totally unsatisfactory. Two problems result: (1) the serew may tear out; ot (2) the fiberglass skin may be pulled avay from the foam core. If this oveurs, further delamination may follow leading to loss of needed hull strength, Bonding items to the hull is lso unsatisfactory. Its vory difficult to determine ‘that a good bond exists, and the problem of parting the skin from the foam core remains eritieal.“4 ‘When something has tobe secured tothe hull where there is no wood backing, special bolting toehniques must be followed. This consists of spreading the compression force of the holt over a large ares. The reason is that a standard bolt and washer, when drawn tight, will have a tendency to erush the foam between the interior and exterior hulls. It will also lead to eracking of the fiberglass skin. The compression plate (both inside and out) may be fabriested from stainless steel, aluminum or, in some eases, wood pads It would he well to consult with the factory before a job of this nature is undertaken. ‘When securing into wood inserts, or when bolting together compression pads mentioned above, it is wise to use a number of fastenings rather than a few large ones. Stainless steel serews or bolts are preferred, not only for their ‘corrosion resistanee but their toughness. Bronze is permissible; however, itis softer than stainless and screws may be twisted off if driven into a tight hole. Brass, contrary to many beliefs, is not the best type of fastening. In salt water, a chemical reaction dissolves out the zine, leaving “red putty”. ‘When using serews to fasten components to the hull, areas where there is ‘wood backing bencath, itis very important to drill a hole just through the glass surface large enough to accept the stem ofthe serew. Do not allow the drill to Denetrate into the plywood beneath, for this is a soft material and needs only the smallest of pilot holes or no pilot holes at all. Ifthe hole through the fiberglass were tight, the screw threads would pass through, but not the shank ofthe serew. The glass won' give and a continued tightening, would strip the serew from the wood beneath, () 19° an 20" On the foamed lower hull below the rub rall the same fastening information will apply as noted for 8° - 1° boats. ‘The upper deckskins, above the rub ral, are of single skin construction. All areas under the fiberglass skin are accessible to bolt fastenings of hardware. ‘When factory options are installed, there isa wood pad already mounted below the fiberglass skin, We use these pads to give extra strength and tear-out resistance, 1f components such as cleats are added where there is presently no backing, then a plywood backing block (% inch) should be used. ‘The bolts should have suitable washers and preferrably aireraft-type lock nuts. [A slight dab of marine compound under the deck fastening will prevent water from dripping below decks. (6) Ski Hitehes Do not instal elevated ski hitches on 19° Whalers: they may tip the boat over ‘when a skier pulls outside in a turn. Ski eyes installed on transom are for ski line attachment. A bridle equipped with a pulley and fleat is recommended. ‘The pulley allows the tow lin to traverse from side to side asa skier jumps the ‘wake, and the float prevents the line from sinking and tangling in the propeller. Our 17° boats have the same ski eye hookup. But if you feel the need, an elevated hiteh may be used with this hull On 19's and 21's it is convenient to use the stern quarter cleats as a point of attachment for either a single tow line or a large bridle. An elevated ski hiteh rmay also be used on these boats with no difficulty. () Towing Our, 11° and 15° boats are ideally suited for tender sorvice and ean be easily towed. They offer litte drag resistance, and drain plugs can be left open when ‘operating in rough water conditions. Swamping won't submerge the boat and ‘open drains wil bail Experimentation will be necessary to determine which towing method is most satisfactory for your specific requirements. In some applications, a single bridle tothe towing eye wll be sufficient In other eases, a double bridle going back to the towing eye will be necessary to prevent yawing, and have the boat ride properly behind the eruiser's wake. ‘The tow line should be secured only to the towing eye. The boats have an interior horizontal norman pin. However, this i for ight duty tie-up only, and if you attempt to tow by this pin it will tear out. For high speed towing when a bridle is used, each leg of the bridle should be independently ted to the bow eye, giving added security. A light line, called 1 preventer, should be attached to the bow eye or the tow line hooks and loosely draped over the bow and looped several times around the norman pin ‘This wll act asa shock preventer should the bow eye fail, or the towing bridle connections let go. 6‘The engine, or equivalent stern ballast, should be left in postion. For straight tracking at high speed, some have removed the propeller or left it in neutral land secured the engine inthe down position.'The motor acts as an effective towing rudéer. WARNING: Avoid nylon tow lines. Unless of excessively large size, these stretch like a rubber baad and in ease of accidental breakage can propel hhardovare like @ missle. MAINTENANCE, Getcoat Geleoat is & paint-like substance, used in fiberglass construction to give exposed surfaees a smooth, hard texture and gives the boat its desired color. ur geleost has been formulated to do a specie job. It's a compromise between the very hard geleoat and the very soft. The hard geleoats result in a shiny and polished surface, However, this surface is brittle, and easily cracks with movement of the boat for extremes in temperature, The soft geleoats give a dull surface, and are difficult to keep clean. Our geleoat is blended to retain some of the lustre of the hard geleoats, but also some ofthe pliaility ofthe sft ones. ‘The geleoat by itself will not deteriorate in its composition with age. Its surface is ‘easily leaned with normal sosp and water, and stubborn stains ean be removed with ‘detergent, such as Comet or Bab-0. Gelcoat surfaces, particularly flat surfaces, will eventually fade after continued ‘exposure to the sun, The application of an automotive-type cleaner wax will greatly prolong the beauty of the boat and is easily applied. Be eautious in this application, however, that it is not applied to at horizontal surfaces, which are normally stepped on when exiting or entering the boat, The waxed surface becomes quite slippery. For an older boat, the geleoated surfaces ean be revived by compounding with an automotive-type rubbing compound. After compounding and buffing, wax can be applied, restoring much ofthe original color. For very faded boats, wet sanding with ‘number 500 paper, followed by compounding and waxing will also bring the boat back tollte. Because geleoat by its nature is a hard and brittle substance, hailine craze eracks ray result with age. These craze eracks usually develop on surfaces where the geleoat [s heavy, oF areas where there isa serew or other fastoning through the hull. On old boats, itis sometimes best to leave the crack alone, without repair. Periodic leaning will prevent dirt from entering the crack and becoming obvious. On an older boat, because the geleoat has faded, the repair is sometimes more obvious than the problem For newer models, we offer a geleoat craze crack repair kit. Color matched geleoat ‘of especially thin variety is applied with a eamel's hair brush after the area has been cleansed with acetone, This not only washes dirt and grit from the erack itself, but ‘sets up a capillary setion, wherein the thin geleoat is sucked into the erack. Multiple applications fill the crack and build the surface proud. Wet sanding and buffing levels the surface, completing the repair. Gelcoat has a limited shel lf, so only order when you will be doing the job and when you ean expect warm, dey weather. Electrical Wiring (13 and 11° Boats — Blue Interior) On older 13° and 17" Whalers with the blue Interior, light wires are molded Into the fiberglass hul. This wire is three-eonductor and cannot be replaced or withdrawn. It is ‘encapsulated in Hberglass, The third strand serves only as a spare and it is possible to use this as a substitute for one ofthe wires which may have become corroded. However, ifall wires have been corroded below the hull surface, your only recourse is to replace the light wiring in its entirety. On all new boats (tan interior), the wiring runs inside the black insert of the heavy-duty rub rail, and is easily replace. ‘This is also a good solution for older boats, The heavy-duty rub rail kit is more durable than the original rub rail it updates the boat, and provides a simple wire run Electrical Wiring (17, 19° and 21” Boats) On some 17° models, an eleetrical wiring panel fs standard; on others, itis an optional accessory ‘The wiring panel is standard on our 19° and 21° boats ‘These panels come complete with two switches and a bus bar forthe installation of supplementary = accessories. Bach switch in the panel is fused, and the panel itself is protected by a master fuse. ‘When installing additional electrical eomponents such as radios, fathometers, and 80 forth, the connections ean be made through the bus bar. Wiring in the system is sufficiently heavy to handle the supplementary Joa and the electrical eomponent will be protected against overload by the main panel fuse. Many radios, fathometers, and other pieves of marine equipment come with a removable glass fuse in thelr power line source. This fuse should be eonnected to the positive side ofthe distribution panel bus bar. The postive side s easily determined by tracing the wire from the main panel fuse to the bus bar itself Plectrical Wiring (General) When connecting new electrical components, or wiring lights to a switeh on older boats, i s important to place the switeh in the postive lead ony. If either by original installation or inadvertent exchange of wiring leads at the battery, the light switch turns up in the negative side of the light wiring, early corrosion failure of light wires will occur. When the lights are turned off by opening the switeh in the negative lead, the wiring in the positive side of the battery continuously connects to the lights and through their filaments to both sides of the wiring, his means there is a 12-volt potential between the light wiring and the water environment or the engine. Any dlampness provides a path for current leakage which proceeds to remove copper oF ‘etal from the wiring. Corrosion failure is usually within three or four weeks! ”Anti-Fouling Bottom Paint All boats left moored in salt water, and some in fresh water, accumulate marine growth, This drastically reduces speed and increases fuel consumption by as much as 450%! To prevent this, «good grade anti-fouling paint should be used. Approximate water lines for 18's and 17's are represented below. Individual tastes may preseribe that the water line be exaetly at water level; others will prefer the water Tine to be two to three inches higher than the flat line to prevent brown water scum marks from going oto the white geleoat. ‘To determine exactly where you want the water line to occur, the only satisfactory method is to launeh your boat and suitably mark it. This procedure ts particularly true inthe case of our 19" and 21° boats beetuse of their large variety in engine options and fuel eapacities. ‘You wil find water lines on 13's and 17's quite accurate. In the case of our 19s and. 21's, a mark should be made on the transom and at the bow sith the boat in the water ‘vith a ful fuel load on board. The boat then ean be hauled and placed on a trailer or 8 ‘cradle. The boat shouldbe leveled athwartships and should be trimmed 30 thatthe bow nd the stern marks are equally distant from the oor. Cua piece of wood to this length fand use it ¢o mark a pencil line all around the hull ‘Mask off the hull and apply the antifouling bottom paint according to the specific instructions of the paint manufacturer. Tt is important to follow these instruetions particularly in the steps requiring cleaning of the boat’s surface to remove wax and ‘ther residue, Recommendations may eall for priming with a chemical wash or vigorous Sanding. Don't shorteut this application. If you do, the anti-fouling surface will fall. 8 In choosing the typeof anti fouling bottom paint, consult with your friends or dealer, and purchase the Lype most effective or most popular in your operating ares. "The alternative to painting isto haul the boat out at two-week intervals for washing and drying ofthe bottom. Some even wax the hottom to prevent the build-up of growth However, this is @ temporary measure and should not be considered a substitute for ‘bottom paint. Care of Canvas We use two types of canvas for our tops and covers on Boston Whalers. Tan and green cotton duck is used for tops subjected to repeated furling and deck trafic, wherein the canvas is either stored wet or subject to the abrasive effect of feot and ‘sand, Vinyl is used for tops which store in more protected aress, suchas forward ofthe windshields on our Revenge series. Both canvas components require litle maintenance. ‘The vinyl ean be periodieally washed dovn with a mild soap and soft brush. It should be dried before furling or application of the storage boot. Mildew on the inside surface can be prevented by insuring that itis dry before storage. If mildew does develop, remove the eanvas, laying it out on the boat or deck so that underside can be serubbed with a mild de tergent. There are many mildew resistant sprays available on the market, specifieally for eanvas application. Some owners have used Lysol. Brown and green cotton duck is used for fying top sets and mooring covers because ofits durability. No other material eombines the ability to exclude water and withstand abuse, ineluding frequent setting and furling. Although the canvas has been treated to resist mildew, warm dampness remains its prineiple enemy, particulary from fresh water. Ifyou must fur the eanvas wet, leave it loose. If t's wet with fresh water, do not use the boot, particularly in warm weather. Furlit tight when it’s dry and put the boot on when it's dry. Both maneuvers wil help to exelude moisture to which it may subsequently be exposed. 1 furled top has been wet with rain, open it to dry as soon as convenient Remember, fresh water is the culprit and eventually the mildew-proofing will wash away. Since soil of an organic nature will eause surface mildew, canvas should be clean. With a canvas in the up position, mild soap (not detergent) can be used, serubbing with 1 soft-bristled household brush and rinsing thoroughly. Lippers Zippers will fal Irom lack of use and the build-up of salt, corrosion and dirt. They should be periodically used and kept lubricated. Spray Iubricants, such as CRC or 'WD-0, are exellent beeause they are easy to apply ina spray can and because they penetrate the zipper. Snaps and lift dot fastenings used on the canvas systems will als fall if not used or kept properly lubricated. The spray lubrication ean be used on the female portions of the snaps; and on the lift dot fastenings, a thin film of waterproof grease or even vaseline is absolutely necessary to Keep these components free and easy to operate. 19Care of Hardware ‘The deck hardware on your Boston Whaler is made up of various metals, all suited to particular strength requirement or manufacturing technique. The bow and stera eyes are forged stainless steel. The lifting eye nuts and the bow chocks are made of cast bronze and the rails are stainless steel. All of our fastenings, including serews and bolts, are stainless steel Stainless steel, although strong and corrosion resistant does have a problem that requires periodic maintenance, Stainless steel surfaces must be kept elean and free fof accumblated dirt and grit. Offensive crevice corrosion (rust) will occur at joints where one piece of stainless hardware joins another. Serews and finishing washers are ‘an example; ral serews into ral T's are another. Rails and hardware that are periodically washed down with soap and water won't have this problem. However, when rust does occur, it ean be removed with a detergent such as Comet or Bab-O and a sponge or stiff bristled brush which is particulary useful for getting into the nooks and crannies. Bow and ski eyes will require a stiff brush because of their rough surfaces. ‘After cleaning, some owners prefer to wax hardware using an automotive-type wax which does make future maintenance easier but it is not necessary. Stainless, like fiberglass, becomes slippery when waxed and caution should be exercised, CAUTION — Never use steel woo! for any cleaning application! Tiny particles of steel ‘will falloff eausing rust stains on the boat which will be impossible to remove. Care of Varnish ‘The varnish used on our woodwork is urethane, sprayed directly onto the wood without fillers or stains. By thinning the fist of three coats, the urethane penetrates ‘deeply into the pores, providing a good holding power for subsequent coats, This is a very durable coating, and it forms a good base for any other type varnish. ‘The best maintenance for mahogany is to prevent exposure of the wood to weather and ultraviolet sun rays. This ean be accomplished by equipping the boat with any of the several varieties of console and seat covers available. We have reports of customers, by using eanvas when the boat isnot in use, going upto five years before re-varnishing. becomes necessary ‘Automotive wax or spray wax, such as Lemon Pledge, will add gloss and lustre to the ‘woodwork and add longevity to its surface. However, when refinishing time comes, {great care will hve tobe taken to remove all the wax before sanding. I this precaution is not taken, you will sand the wax into the woodwork, and failure of new varnish well result, Refinishing Varni ‘The important thing to doi to re-varnish “before you need to”. If you walt until the ‘ld varnish is broken down and black stains are visible, it will be difficult or impossible torestore the origina finish, (IFthis happens, one good expedient is to go to white paint which looks rather well.) 20 Tn refinishing, any good varnish is acceptable and we suggest the use of one with which you or your acquaintances have had experience. There are two important ‘warnings: (1) Ifyou don’t remove the woodwork from the bost, carefully mask all of the deck surface with a strong paper held down with tape. A varnish drip will make a [permanent black stain which is virtually impossible to remove. (2) Carefully send all the surfaces prior to applying new coatings #0 as to kill ninety per cent of the gloss. ‘This gives “tooth” to retain the new material. Use fine sandpaper (#360), Use of coarse paper will eause seratches which will show after varnishing and will make it ‘necessary to apply multiple coats to obtain the original lustre. Sandpaper of the “open coat” type works well because the powdered varnish does not clog the grit. Those Iamitiar with wet sanding will no doubt choose this method ‘we use solid teak trim as well as teak-faced marine plywood. ‘Teak, by its nature, is a wood with a sandy texture which eontains a considerable amount of ol. It is this texture and content which makes teak resistant to rot, and ‘durable when exposed to the elements ‘Teak woodwork ean be left as is, and no harm will ome tot. However, pollutants in the atmosphere wll vary, depending upon where your boat is stored. In dirty areas. the teak will urn dark gray with streaks of black if left uncovered. In other areas, clear of factories or heavy traffic, the teak will mellow to @ nice blonde color. ‘Teak can be cleaned using a serub brush and soap and water, and ean be bleached lighter by scrubbing it down with Comet or Bab-O. There are also a number of teak cleaning solutions available on the market. Your local dealer should be able to supply you, Normally, after the cleaning sequence, the teak will bein its original state and color. This can be preserved somewhat by the appliation of teak ol or teak preservatives, Tmattens "Traers od not be pc configurations whale Boon Whalers, You sold, however chk lovee tt the aes pope ge a =. cra vary at hve ur ay beans doe Lr becaduted sett hey t tov the haloes = Se eee eee tei Keel roles must be adjusted go hat they suport thehulrand euros weight Al Bost Were havespeclysrengtnel kel aen pce fo ths purse ‘The wnchstand shoul be juste oh the bow a stops eae st above te bow ean the eich a pom cable passing just below it. This allows the winch to mended for 19 an 2112 She aj trai intl theses hoe se eee I sp: Lneaing he sop thowe th bow ese aprovides security ns pani stop, preventing the boat from riding up and aver the trunk of the ca. ‘Te-down straps on boats equipped with a heavy uty rub rail and our 19's and 21's ereate no problem. However, to prevent abrasion or chafing of the bul, ‘especially during long distance hauls, some form of ‘chafing protection should be placed under the nylon Strap. On older 13° and 17 Whalers with the white vinyl rub rail, a wooden protective pad should be made as shown, If this precaution is not taken, use ofthe tie-down strap wil have a tendency to peel the rub rail off of the gunwale. [Another very acceptable method of traller tie-down. ‘consists of using lashings from the bunks or trailer ‘chassis, A more elaborate version of this, ofcourse, is purchase of transom tie-down hooks or clamps Supplied by many of the trailer manufacturers. Be ‘careful hore that metal parts contacting the hull are padded to prevent abrasion of the glass skin, We use quarter-inch nylon because it has good breaking strain charactoristies and because it stretches when pulled tightly. This acts as a shock cord holding the boat tothe trailer, but allowing slight ‘movement during the severest of bumps. ‘You'll find a great convenience in a catwalk mounted on the traler chassis. If not supplied by the trailer manufacturer, itis simply constructed using « two-by-ten or ‘tworby-twelve plank. Another feature not found on many trailers, but easily fabricated, is trailer flaps. "These prevent gravel or road tar from flying up onto the side of the boat. When launching or loading, you should never submerge the wheel bearings of the trailer. The working effect of the water on the hot bearing sucks water into the bearing, also raises havoe with the trailer chassis, eausing rust not onl of this component but ofthe electrical system in general. ‘Back the trailer down to the water so that the wheel bearings are just above water level. A trailer that is properly balanced will allow one person to tit it, allowing the hoat to slide easily off of the Keo! rollers. Keep keel rollers lubricated with waterproof type grease. 2