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Studio Seren Lamb Instructions
Studio Seren Lamb Instructions
LAMB doll
instructions
for confident beginners
finished size 15” / 38cm
welcome
Welcome to my lamb doll sewing pattern! I am thrilled that you have chosen
to make this adorable little character with me. I have had so much fun
designing it, and I hope you will enjoy the process of making it just as much
You will be guided through the process with clear instructions and detailed
photographs for each step of the way. As well as showing you what to do, I
include prompts to help you avoid common mistakes. Templates for drawing
the face are also included to help you achieve a perfect result. If you are
new to sewing with fur and knitted fabrics I’ve included some tips to make
your first time easier
You have the option to dress up your lamb in a cute romper, jumpsuit, or
dress for playing in the flowers. I have also created a bow which looks
adorable worn next to the lamb’s ears like bunches
Emma xxx
If you need help with anything feel free to message me at patterns@studioseren.com and I will
respond as quickly as I can
You are invited to join a friendly and supportive Facebook group dedicated to sewing my
patterns. There you’ll be able to ask questions and watch video demonstrations to make
sewing my patterns even easier. I share lots of tips and extra resources in the group to
support your doll-making journey
You’ll be able to join in with sew-alongs and see photos of dolls made using my patterns
by people from all over the world. I sometimes run giveaways and share free patterns and
other extras like colouring sheets of my dolls
I hope you find it an inspiring and valuable resource and look forward to seeing you there!
www.facebook.com/groups/studioseren
Please include the full name used to order the pattern and your order number when
requesting to join the group. It makes it quicker and easier for me to add you
15” lamb pattern © Studio Seren 2023 3
what you’ll need
fabric
You will need a piece of fabric 43” (109cm) wide and 7 7/8” (20cm) long for the body. I recommend
using one of the following types of medium weight woven fabrics...
• 100% cotton fabric such as Robert Kaufman Kona which weighs 4.4oz/yd² (150gsm)
• 100% linen fabric with a tight weave which weighs approximately 5.9oz/yd² (200 gsm)
• A cotton/linen blend fabric such as Robert Kaufman Essex Linen which weighs 5.6oz/yd²
(190gsm)
If you are new to sewing cotton or a cotton/linen blend such as Essex Linen is much easier to sew
with than 100% linen. Knitted fabrics such as plush are not suitable for this pattern. If you use
them your doll will be a different size and shape and the clothes may not fit
If you would like to use a different colour for the front of the ears you will need a 4 3/4” wide x 2 3/8”
long (12 x 6cm) piece of fabric that is a similar weight as your body fabric. I love to use pink or
peach fabric for the front of the ears
You will need a piece of soft lamb-like fabric for the forehead, the back of the lamb’s head and the
ears that is 15 3/4” (40cm) wide and 6 5/16” (16cm) long. It is important to choose fabric with a soft,
knitted back that is designed for making clothes or dolls. Make sure you don’t use upholstery fabric
which has a stiffer back. The longer the pile and the fluffier the fabric, the trickier it will be to sew.
If you aren’t used to sewing fluffy fabrics bouclé is a good choice for your first doll. It has a shorter
pile and is much easier to sew with. Another way you could make your first doll easier is to only
use lamb fabric for the lamb’s forehead and make the back of the head with body fabric
I’ve designed the pattern so that the lamb fabric is lined with the same fabric that the rest of the
body is made from. Knitted fabrics like the ones used for the forehead and the back of the head
are much stretchier than woven fabrics like cotton and linen. If you don’t line them they will stretch
out of shape when you stuff them. You may be wondering whether interfacing could be used
instead of the lining. I tested the pattern using different types of interfacing and the results were
variable, so I don’t recommend using it unless you have experience making this type of doll and
already have interfacing that you know won’t stretch when used with knitted fabrics
On the following page I’ve shared some photos of the fabrics I’ve used to make the three lambs on
the cover so you can see what they look like from the front and the back
If you would like to make the doll’s eyes from felt (see step 59) you will need a piece of 1mm thick
100% wool felt measuring 1” x 1” (2.5 x 2.5cm) If you can’t find 100% wool felt, choose one with as
much wool in it as possible. Avoid felt made entirely from man-made fibres as it bobbles easily and
can lose its shape
thread
You will need good quality polyester sewing machine thread such as Gutterman sew-all thread
to match your body fabric (cotton is not strong enough for doll making). This will also be used to
hand sew the arms and ears to the body. I recommend using two strands for this task to make
sure the limbs are secure, or you could use one strand of extra strong thread such as Gutterman
extra strong for this. If you can’t find thread to match your fabric choose one a shade lighter than
the fabric you are using, especially when you sew the doll’s body. Lighter-coloured stitching is less
likely to show than stitches darker than your fabric
Embroidery thread (known as floss or stranded cotton) should be used to sew the face. I like to
use black, dark grey or dark brown for the eyes and brown, black or pink for the nose
stuffing
You will need approximately 6oz (170g) of stuffing, depending on the type you use. Polyester
stuffing is lightweight and popular, but you could also use wool or other natural fibres such as
bamboo or cotton. I recommend buying the best stuffing you can afford. The cheap unbranded
options may look and feel the same as the more expensive ones through the bag, but they often
result in lumpy dolls that don’t hold their shape as well over time. Other things to check for are
whether the stuffing is flame resistant and hypo-allergenic
paint
If you have chosen to paint the face, you will need a small round paintbrush and fabric paint (or
regular acrylic paint mixed with textile medium). Alternatively, you could use fabric markers or
acrylic paint markers that are suitable for use on fabric (check with the manufacturer). To seal the
paint once it has dried, you will need to apply heat using a hair-dryer or an iron (cover the paint
with greaseproof paper to protect your iron)
knotless start
Use when sewing with two strands of thread, such as when you backstitch the doll’s eyes
3 5
1 2 4
Separate one strand from a really long piece of embroidery thread and place both ends through
the needle so there is a loop at the other end. Place your needle through the fabric where you
want your first stitch to start and come out where you want your stitch to end, leaving a small loop
of thread. Pass your needle through the loop and gently pull the thread. Place the needle back
through the second hole and begin to backstitch
hidden knot start
Thread a doll needle and knot the end a few times. Trim the end of the knot short. Bring the needle
from the back of the doll’s head through to the place where you will start stitching. Gently pull the
thread so that the knot ‘pops’ inside of the body and is hidden. Change to an embroidery needle
and begin sewing. If there is a hole where the knot went through, gently rub your fingers across
the fabric until it disappears. If you don’t have a doll needle, start a couple of inches / around five
centimetres away from where you plan to start stitching using an embroidery needle
1 2 3
Change to a doll needle before you finish your last stitch. Sew the stitch, bringing the needle out
at the back of the doll’s body (if you don’t have a doll needle come out a couple of inches or five
centimetres away from where you have been stitching using your embroidery needle). Use your
other hand to hold the thread taught and wrap the thread around the needle twice. Place the
needle back into the hole that it came out of and come out an inch (a couple of centimetres) or so
away. This will create a knot. Gently tug the thread so that the knot ‘pops’ inside the body. Pull the
thread taut and cut. The thread should disappear inside the body
3 2 6 5
1 4
Sew over an existing stitch, or make a really small stitch that won’t be noticed. Bring the needle
back out where you started to create a loop. Thread the needle through the loop to create a
knot. Repeat a couple of times. On the last knot bring the needle back up an inch / couple of
centimetres or so away. Pull the thread taught and cut. The thread will disappear inside the body.
backstitch
Backstitch is an easy, strong stitch used to sew lines. Make sure to keep your stitches the same
length and insert your needle into the same hole used by the previous stitch.
3 1 2 3 4 5 3 4
ladder stitch
Also known as invisible stitch, ladder stitch is the most useful stitch to learn when making dolls.
This simple technique hides your stitching when you sew openings shut. It is also used to attach
limbs. There are some videos of me demonstrating this stitch in the Studio Seren Facebook group
6
3 2
1
5 4
Start by drawing your shape onto the fabric using an erasable fabric pen. Sew around the outline
of the shape using small backstitches. Take time to sew the shape as accurately as you can, as
this will be the template for your satin stitches
1 3 5 1 3
2 4 2
Begin your first stitch in the middle of the top of the shape. Bring your needle up immediately
above the backstitching and bring it down directly opposite, placing the needle immediately below
the backstitching. Keep your stitches as close to the backstitch as possible. Make sure the first
stitch is completely straight, as it will be the guide for the rest of your stitches. Bring the needle up
to the right, next to where you started your first stitch, and sew the next stitch parallel to the first
Keep your stitches close together, while making sure they don’t overlap. Continue to stitch
carefully until you have filled in the right side of the shape. Be careful not to pull the stitches too
tight or the shape will become distorted. The stitches should be smooth and flat, and the strands of
thread should not be twisted
Start from the middle again and begin stitching to the left until you have completely filled in the
shape. If the outside of your shape is uneven when you are finished, you can sew around it using
backstitch to make it smoother, keeping your stitches as close to the edge as possible
whipstitch
Whipstitch is a simple stitch used to attach two pieces of fabric together. It can be used to attach
felt to a doll’s body
2
3
1
basting stitch
Basting or tacking stitch is a long running stitch used to temporarily hold more than one piece of
fabric together. Tie a knot in one end of your thread and make a 3/8” (1cm) long stitch. Leave the
same distance before making your next stitch. Basting stitch can easily be removed once you
have sewn your seam
3 2
1
make sure the needle in your machine is sharp and the right size for your fabric. A stretch
needle is recommended for knitted lamb-like fabrics
use the ‘right side’ of the fabric when instructed. This is the side that will be visible when
you have finished. Whilst it is easy to identify the right side of patterned fabrics, you may
have to look more closely to check if there is a difference with plain fabrics. Sometimes
the colour on one side is duller than the other
always use the reverse function on your sewing machine to backstitch over the first and
last couple of stitches of your seams. This stops the stitching from coming undone
sew seams 1/4” or 0.5cm from the edge of the fabric unless otherwise stated. Seam
allowances have been built into the pattern pieces so there is no need to add them
stitch the body seams twice to make them stronger. This prevents the seams from
bursting when you stuff the body. This is especially important if you are using 100% linen
or the Essex Linen yarn-dyed fabrics which have a looser weave
use a short stitch to sew the doll’s body (1.5). Use a regular length stitch (2.5) when
sewing the lamb fabric. If your stitch is too long stuffing and raw edges of fabric may come
out when you stuff the body
Take your time stuffing your doll. You nearly always need more stuffing than you imagine!
When a doll is stuffed well it is firm and smooth. When it is stuffed poorly it is lumpy in
some places and hollow in others.
When pinning curves use more pins than usual and always place them vertically so you
can follow the curve with minimal interruption
When sewing a curve set the needle on your machine to finish in a downward position.
Take it slowly, only sewing two or three stitches at a time. As you go around the curve, lift
the presser foot and pivot the fabric slightly before putting the foot down and sewing again
Once you have sewn a curve remove some of the excess bulk to get a smooth, round
shape by trimming the seam allowance with pinking shears (alternatively cut triangular
notches out of it using small fabric scissors, taking care not to cut your stitching)
Cut edge
doll’s body will distort when stuffed
fabric width
grainline
Fabric is cut from a roll. The finished edges
of the fabric that run lengthways are called
selvedges. They sometimes contain a small
row of holes of information about the fabric.
The fabric’s grainline runs in the direction of the
selvedges. You’ll notice that your fabric stretches
less along the selvedge/grainline than if you
stretch it widthways
selvedge
Fold your fabric before cutting
Iron the fabric before you begin and make sure you have enough room to lay it flat. You need to
cut two or four pieces from all of the pattern pieces, except the front body and forehead pieces. It
is quicker, easier and more accurate to cut them from fabric that has been folded. If you choose
not to fold the fabric, you will need to mirror the head, back body and leg pieces. This means to cut
one piece with the front of the pattern facing toward you and the other with the back of the pattern
facing towards you. If you don’t do this and your fabric looks different on one side, one piece will
have the right side of the fabric on the back instead of the front
Cut pieces in the right direction
Lay the fabric in front of you so the cut edges
of the fabric are horizontal and the selvedges
are vertical. Place the front body and forehead
pieces in the top right corner of the fabric. Fold
the left selvedge towards the right selvedge,
placing it to the left of the pieces as shown.
Make sure that the selvedges are parallel and
the fabric is flat and smooth
Please note: the head is cut in the opposite direction to the rest of the body
The selvedge may be less obvious on the lamb fabric. When you pull the fabric you should notice
that it stretches one way much more than the other. It is important when cutting the forehead and
back head pieces that the stretchiest part of the fabric runs from top to the bottom of the head so
that the fabric doesn’t stretch too much when it is stuffed. The pattern pieces should be placed on
the fabric so that the double pointed arrow that says grainline is perpendicular to the side of the
fabric with the most stretch
Some lamb fabric like Sherpa may be a bit furry and you may notice
that it has a pile. This means the fibres will smooth down in one
direction and feel rough and spiky in the other. When you cut out your
Pile
pieces the pile should run (or smooth down) in the direction indicated
in the diagram opposite. Not all lamb fabrics will have a pile, so don’t
worry about this if yours doesn’t
Cutting layout
The layout shows how to cut the pattern from Robert Kaufman Essex Linen fabric, measuring 43”
(109cm) wide and 7 7/8” (20cm) long. As it’s narrower than most fabrics, you may be able to use a
shorter piece of fabric
18 1⁄8” (46cm) - 2 layers 6 11⁄16” (17cm) - 1 layer
7 7⁄8” (20cm)
fold
selvedge
selvedge
SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED IN THE PATTERN, THERE IS NO NEED TO ADD THEM
15” lamb pattern © Studio Seren 2023 13
Checklist
Check that you have cut out all of the pieces...
lamb lamb
lamb
lamb lamb
Step 2
Place the back head and forehead pieces
made from body fabric on top of the lamb fabric
pieces and pin them in place. If your lamb fabric
has long fibres tuck them between the pieces
as you pin them together. Sew the body fabric
to the lamb fabric to create a lining. You can do
this by hand or machine, depending on what
you feel most comfortable with. Sewing it by
hand will give you more control and is easier if
your lamb fabric is long and fluffy
Using a machine
Using the longest stitch length on your sewing
machine, sew one row of basting stitches along
the edges of the back head and forehead
pieces to attach the lining to the lamb fabric.
Sew 1/8” (3mm) from the edge of the fabric. Take
your time. Set the needle on your machine to
finish in a downward position and only sew two
or three stitches at a time. As you go around
the curves and corners, lift the presser foot and
pivot the fabric before putting the foot down and
sewing again
Step 3
Use the pattern piece to mark the centre of the
forehead piece on the top and bottom edges as
shown
Step 4
With the RIGHT sides together, pin the back
head pieces together. If your lamb fabric has
long fibres tuck them between the pieces as
you pin them together. Stitch slowly along the
line shown, taking care to sew a smooth curve
Step 5
Trim the seam allowance with pinking shears
Step 7
With the RIGHT sides together, pin the face
pieces together. Stitch slowly along the line
shown, taking care to sew a smooth curve
Step 8
Trim the seam allowance and press open the
seams with your fingers
Step 10
Pin the other side of the forehead to the face
Step 11
Pin the centre of the forehead to the face, lining
up the mark you made on the forehead with the
central face seam. Use lots of pins to pin the
rest of the forehead to the face. Pull the fabric
taut as you pin, checking to make sure you
haven’t pinned any folds in the fabric. If your
lamb fabric has long fibres tuck them between
the pieces as you pin them together.
Step 13
Check the front of the face to make sure you
have sewn a smooth curve and haven’t sewn
any folds into the seam
Step 14
Trim the seam allowance with pinking shears
then press open the seams with your fingers
Step 16
Use an iron to press open the seam as shown
Step 17
You should now have two head and two body
pieces. With the RIGHT sides together, pin the
front head to the front body piece. Pin the back
head to the back body piece, taking care to
line up the central seams. Sew along the neck
seams as shown. Open up the body and check
that you haven’t sewn any creases or folds at
the bottom of the central face seam
Step 18
Trim the seam allowance with pinking shears
and gently press open the seams with your
fingers
Step 19
With the RIGHT sides together, pin the front
and back of the body together as shown. Make
sure the seams line up at the top of the head
and on the sides of the neck. It is easiest if you
begin by pinning the seams together before
pinning the rest of the body. Don’t pin the seam
itself. Instead place a pin directly on each side
of the seam. This will help prevent the seams
from moving out of alignment as you sew them
together. The front of the head is bigger than
the back of the head because it is more three-
dimensional. The edges will still line up. You
may need to gently stretch the fabric as you pin
so both pieces are the same size
Step 20
Slowly stitch around the body as shown. Sew
around the body, then pivot and make vertical
stitches at the neck before pivoting again and
sewing around the head. Do the same on the
other side of the body. If you skip sewing the
neck and make a sharp turn from the body
to the head, your doll won’t have a neck and
creasing and puckering will occur. Hold the
body away from you and check that you have
sewn the two sides symmetrically, paying
particular attention to the cheeks, neck and
shoulders.
Step 21
Carefully trim the seam allowance with pinking
shears. Make sure the neck area is trimmed
well. If it is hard to reach this area, trim it with
small scissors instead. This will help make sure
the neck is curved and smooth when it is stuffed
Step 23
Fold the bottom opening of the body 1/2” (1.3cm)
inwards and press with an iron
Step 25
With the RIGHT sides together, pin each pair
of arms and legs together and sew along the
seam as shown. Take care stitching over the
folds at the top of the arms. Trim around the
curves with pinking shears
Step 29
With the toes facing forward, pin the top of each
leg as shown. Make sure the central seam on
the front and back of the legs are aligned. Sew
each leg closed, stitching 1/8” (3mm) from the
opening
Step 30
With the front of the body facing towards you,
insert 1/2” (1.3cm) of the top of the legs into the
opening at the bottom of the body. Make sure
the toes are facing forward. Pin the legs into
place and the opening closed as shown. Check
that the legs are the same length
Step 31
Sew the legs into place by stitching 1/8” (3mm)
from the bottom of the body. If your doll is going
to be handled a lot, sew over the stitching again
so the legs are extra secure
Step 33
If the lamb fabric you are using is long and fluffy
use a pin to gently tease the fibres out of the
seams.
Step 34
Sew the opening on the body shut using a
ladder stitch. There is a video of me sewing a
body shut in the Studio Seren Facebook group
in the featured section. Secure with a few loop
knot finishes and a french knot finish
Step 36
With a long piece of thread, sew the arms shut
with a ladder stitch. Secure the thread with a
few loop knots, but don’t cut the thread as you
will be using it to sew the arms to the body
Step 36
Sew the arms to the body so that the top of the
arm is in line with the neck seam and the side
body seam is centred beneath it. Sew the arms
in place using a ladder stitch, stitching along
the top of the arm and along the neck seam. Lift
the arm and repeat along the bottom of the arm.
Repeat. Concentrate on getting the arm in the
right position the first time around. The second
time around secures the arm and makes the
stitching tidier. Go around again if needed, until
the arm is firmly attached. Finish the thread with
a few loop knots and then a french knot finish
at the back of the body. There is a video of me
showing how to attach the arms in the Studio
Seren Facebook group in the featured section
Step 37
Cut out the eye and mouth templates from the
pattern as shown. With small scissors, carefully
cut along the dashed line of the open eye
templates to cut out the eye shapes
NOSE
Step 38
With the lamb facing towards you, measure
19/16” (4cm) up from the neck seam, along the
central face seam. Use an erasable fabric pen
to mark this spot
Step 39
Draw a line 3/16” (0.4cm) from the mark you
made towards the top of the head
Step 41
Mark the point 1/4” (0.6cm) to the left of the mark
you made and 1/4” (0.6cm) to the right of the
mark you made. Use a ruler to draw a line from
the two points to the top of the line to create the
lamb’s nose
MOUTH
Step 42
Pin the left mouth template directly beneath the
nose as shown. The red line that runs down the
centre of the template should line up with the
central face seam
Step 43
With an erasable fabric pen draw around the
mouth shape, starting at the red line underneath
the lamb’s nose
Step 44
Pin the right mouth template directly beneath
the nose as shown. The red line that runs down
the centre of the template should line up with
the central face seam
Step 45
With an erasable fabric pen draw around the
mouth shape, starting at the red line underneath
the lamb’s nose. The mouth should look like this
Step 48
Repeat for the other eye. Check that you
are happy with the placement of the eyes,
measuring from the neck and the central face
seam to check that they are symmetrical
Step 49
Carefully trace around the eyes with an
erasable fabric pen
Step 50
Check that you are happy with the eyes. You
can either leave them like this or add eyelashes
Step 52
Draw the eyelashes
Step 54
With an erasable fabric pen draw around the
eye shape and mark where the eyelashes go if
you are including them
Step 57
Repeat for the other eye. Don’t sew both eyes
with the same thread. If the thread is carried
over it may be visible through the body fabric
NOSE
Step 61
Cut a long piece of embroidery thread (all six
strands). Start with a hidden knot start at the top
of the doll’s body. Bring the needle up through
one of the nostrils. Place the needle through
the top of point between the nostrils and up
to the other nostril. Place the needle back in
the central point to make a ‘V’ shape. Bring
the needle out at the top of the doll’s body and
secure with a french knot finish
EARS
Step 63
With the RIGHT sides together, pin each pair
of ears together and sew along the seam as
shown
Step 64
Trim the seam allowance with pinking shears
Step 65
Turn the ears the right side out. Gently press
the chopstick along the inside of the seams,
then roll the seams between your index finger
and thumb to shape the ears. This will help
create smooth curves
Step 67
With the front of the ear facing towards you fold
the right corner of the ear 3/8” (1cm) towards the
centre of the ear as shown
Step 68
Sew the fold of the ear into place by making a
few stitches on the bottom edge of the ear. This
is the lamb’s right ear
Step 69
Repeat for the other ear, this time folding left
corner of the ear towards the centre. The two
ears should look like this
Step 71
There is a video in the Studio Seren Facebook
group demonstrating how to attach the bunny
ears which uses the same method. Use a
ladder stitch to attach the ears to the head.
Begin by ladder stitching across the front of the
ear and then along the back. Go around the
folded section at the back of the ear. Repeat
this process to ensure the ears are securely
in place. Concentrate on positioning the ears
accurately during the first round of stitching.
The second round of stitching not only secures
the ear but also tidies up the stitching. If
necessary, sew around the ear again until it is
firmly attached. Finally, secure the thread with a
few loop knots and a french knot finish
Cheeks
There are lots of ways you can give your doll rosy cheeks...
• Gently apply an artist-quality colour pencil. It will fade with time, but can easily be retouched
• Lightly coat a soft brush with blush and add it to the cheeks using soft, circular movements. It
will also fade with time, but can be retouched
• Rub a beeswax crayon onto a small piece of fabric. Gently rub the fabric on to your doll’s face,
building up the colour slowly. Beeswax doesn’t come off, so practice using scrap fabric first
• Fabric paint or acrylic paint mixed with textile medium (follow the manufacturers instructions)
can also be used. It is easy to overdo it using this method, so practise first. Use the tiniest
amount of paint on a soft round brush. Dab the brush on a tissue to remove most of the paint
so it is almost dry. Gently paint the cheeks in a soft circular motion, building up the colour
slowly
Blush and colour pencil are the easiest options for beginners
36 15” lamb pattern © Studio Seren 2023
congratulations!
Congratulations you have finished your doll! I hope you have had fun bringing it to life and are
inspired to keep sewing. If you enjoyed making my pattern I would love it if you could leave me a
review. They really help my little business to grow ♥
If you would like to make more clothes for your doll or to sew it some friends you can find my
patterns at www.studioseren.com All the dolls have the same size bodies so they can share
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release at least one new sewing pattern a month.
Terms of use
You may sell items made from this pattern as long as you observe the following terms...
• Items are not mass-produced. They must be handmade by the individual who purchased the
pattern
• Items are not sold in large numbers. No more than 100 dolls per year can be sold using this
pattern
• Items are sold direct to customers. Items may not be sold wholesale to businesses
• You give credit to my design by including the following text in all Etsy/website listings, social
media activity and other communications: ‘Made using a Studio Seren pattern’ A link to my
website www.studioseren.com should be included or you should tag me on social media
• As the maker of the item, it is your responsibility to ensure that it complies with relevant safety
standards and legislation
My patterns may be used to run face-to-face workshops with permission. All participants must
purchase the pattern. Discounts for ordering multiple patterns are available. Please contact
patterns@studioseren.com for more information. My patterns may not be used for online
workshops
Studio Seren reserves the right to withdraw permission for any individual to sell items made from
this pattern or to use the pattern to run face to face workshops at any time, without the need to
provide any explanation or reason. If Studio Seren finds that a seller is engaging in activities that
are deemed inappropriate, unethical, or infringing on the intellectual property rights of Studio
Seren or any other designer, the authorisation to sell items made from this pattern will be revoked
immediately