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WWW - Petzl - Com - INT - en - Sport - Appendix 4 Precautions and Introduction To Risk Analysis - ActivityName Multi Pitch Climbing
WWW - Petzl - Com - INT - en - Sport - Appendix 4 Precautions and Introduction To Risk Analysis - ActivityName Multi Pitch Climbing
WARNINGS
• Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before
consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the
information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this
supplementary information.
• Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a
professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and
independently before attempting them unsupervised.
• We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be
others that we do not describe here.
The device must be installed correctly on the rope, connected by the upper attachment
hole, taking care to pass the rope through the carabiner.
Notes:
In these situations with fall factor less than one, the ascender's teeth do not damage the
rope.
Despite their aggressive appearance, the teeth on the BASIC or ASCENSION are not
harmful to the rope in normal use.
The spring pushes the cam against the rope and causes it to engage the rope without
sliding (and therefore without tearing), especially if the teeth are new and pointy.
Warning!
The risk of using the device with the cam held open is
significant, as well as the possibility of accidental
opening of the cam when climbing.
Consequently, the MINI TRAXION must be paired with a different ascender: ASCENSION,
BASIC, MICROCENDER...
Petzl does not recommend using a system consisting of only two MINI TRAXION for self-
belayed solo climbing with a fixed rope.
- Access from above presents a risk of falling before the rope is installed, be vigilant when
approaching the anchor
- Beware of rockfall while accessing the route from above, and when the rope is moving
- Anchor or rope failure: adapt your installation to the site, choose a solid anchor on two
triangulated points, avoiding rub points against edges or protrusions. A rope protector
(PROTEC C45) may be required
- Risk of ground fall: in the first few meters of the climb, even with a properly installed
system, you can hit the ground in case of a fall, due to the elasticity of the rope. The static
elongation of a rope is around 10 %. If your route is 50 m, there is a risk of ground fall in the
first 5 meters of the climb, even from simply resting on the rope
- Sliding of the device: improper attachment, opening of the cam during use (rubbing,
interference from foreign objects)
- Device loss: when changing systems from ascent to descent, putting the descender on
the weighted rope is tricky
- Rope loss: If you are tied off to an anchor on a slab route, do not detach yourself
completely from the rope: a slight pendulum can move the rope out of your reach
- Slack rope: if the rope is not sufficiently weighted, the system cannot slide fast enough to
keep pace with the climb and loops of slack are created between you and the anchor. The
potential fall length will increase
- Passing the belay station and falling = factor 2. Always stay below your anchor point,
making sure your setup allows for this during access and return
Included in this article
ASCENSION MICRO TRAXION
Ergonomic handled High-efficiency lightweight
ascender progress-capture pulley
Back Next
Appendix 3: Detail of installation on one Appendix 5: Analysis of solutions observed in the field - Use of a
rope with two ascenders single ascender with knots in the rope.
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The activities depicted are inherently dangerous. All users must be trained and competent in the use of the equipment for these activities.
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