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CHAPTER XXXIV
FARMING ON THE EDGE OF THE ARCTIC
This faraway land of the North is the treasure cave of Jack Frost,
where gold and gravel are cemented together by perpetual ice. You
know of the thousands who rushed here years ago, and of the
hundreds who went back loaded with riches. You may have heard
how the district about Dawson, where I am writing, produced gold by
the ton, the output for ten years being worth more than one hundred
million dollars.
In those days pockets worth hundreds of dollars were not
uncommon. In August, 1899, George T. Coffey took up two
shovelfuls of earth from Bonanza Creek, from which he washed
sixty-three ounces of gold, worth nearly a thousand dollars. A miner
by the name of MacDonald got ninety-four thousand dollars for the
gold from a forty-foot patch of ground. Some of the miners on
Bonanza Creek were dissatisfied if the gravel ran less than a dollar a
pan. They worked the rich spots only, and when the cream had been
skimmed off the surface, gave up their claims.
The gold diggers were followed by corporations. They brought to
the abandoned fields millions in capital and the best mining
machinery. They thawed the frozen gravel with steam and scooped
up the gold-bearing earth with dredges run by electricity. They
carried rivers in pipes over the mountains to wash down the gold-
sprinkled hills. They handled millions of tons of material, each of
which yielded only a few grains of pure gold, but altogether they
produced as much wealth as was taken out in those first prosperous
years by the individual miners.
There are two methods by which the treasure that has been left
is being recovered. One is hydraulic mining and the other is
dredging. Let me give you some of the pictures of the first method,
as I saw it on a ride up the Klondike Valley this afternoon. I went with
the resident manager of the Yukon Gold Company, the Guggenheim
corporation doing most of the gold mining in the Dawson district. We
flew along in a high-powered automobile, winding in and out through
great piles of débris. We rode up Bonanza and Eldorado creeks,
which have been dredged from one end to the other. The whole way
was through a mass of gravel, rock, and earth washings. The beds
of the rivers and creeks had been ploughed in great furrows many
feet deep. There were places where miles of boulders, pebbles, and
broken rock seemed to flow down the mountain sides into the valley.
Streams of water as big around as the thigh of a man were shooting
from pipes with such force that they gouged out great chunks of icy
gravel. In some places the water dropped from the top of the
mountain, washing down the earth in its fall. The whole gave me the
impression of a mighty cloudburst that had torn down the hills and let
loose avalanches of earth.
The story behind those streams of water will give you some idea
of the marvels of mining in the Far North. When the company bought
what were supposed to be the exhausted creeks of the Klondike, it
found that in order to work its concessions it must have water with
sufficient force to wash out the hills. There was no adequate supply
nearer than the Tombstone Mountains, seventy-odd miles away. The
Guggenheims spent four years and millions of dollars in bringing this
river to their gold fields. They carried it across frozen morasses,
through vast ravines, down stupendous valleys, and then lifted it
over mountains and delivered it by a great inverted siphon across
the Klondike River to the once famous diggings.
Much of the ditch had to be thawed out and cut from the
perpetual ice. In crossing the swamps new methods of road building
had to be devised, and men and machinery were assembled far in
the interior of a region once thought inaccessible to all but the most
daring arctic explorers. The supplies, mostly from the United States,
had to come a thousand miles over the ocean and then be carried
five hundred miles more across the mountains and down the Yukon
to Dawson. Machinery was taken to pieces and dragged by horses
and dogs through almost impassable wilds.
The water flows through about twenty miles of flume, twelve and
a half miles of steel and stave pipes, and thirty-eight miles of ditch. It
comes out at the rate of one hundred and twenty-five cubic feet a
second, and with a pressure of four hundred pounds to the square
inch.
As the stream is applied, the gold-bearing sand, gravel, and
water go tumbling down into sluice boxes filled with steel riffles
bedded in mercury. The quicksilver catches the gold, while the rock
and sand go on to the tailings below. Some of the gold sinks into the
pile at the foot of the sluicing, but this is reclaimed at the clean-up in
the fall. Something like three million cubic yards of earth are treated
in this way by the hydraulic giants each season. The average
amount of gold in the gravel is about twenty cents’ worth per yard,
and of this amount one half is said to be profit. The dividends paid by
the Yukon Gold Company have amounted to more than ten million
dollars, and the profits of a single year have been as much as one
million.
As we rode up the valleys I asked the manager whether this
process took out all of the gold. He replied:
“We may lose a cent or two to the ton, but the amount is so small
that we are unable to tell just what it is. The gold content varies a
good deal. The stuff that goes through the dredges may at times
yield sixty cents a yard, and we have struck patches that ran five
dollars per yard or more.
“The old miners threw away the values that are now being
saved,” he went on. “One day I showed an old-timer a pan I had just
finished washing, and asked him how much he thought it would run.
The pan contained a few flakes of gold and quite a little fine flour
gold. The miner tilted it so that the grains ran to one side, and then
took his thumb and scraped out the flour and threw it away. He threw
out just the sort of stuff which we are trying to save, and upon which
all our calculations are based.”
The dredges, by which much of the gold is now being taken out,
operate in ground that has to be thawed before it can be worked.
With the exception of a foot or so at the surface, this whole Klondike
region is one mass of ice, mixed with boulders, pebbles, and sand
that has been frozen for thousands of years. The ice goes down no
one knows how deep. Diamond drills sunk to a depth of three
hundred feet have gone all the way through frozen earth. The
mixture is covered by a thin bed of muck, on top of which grows a
layer of arctic moss. It is only when the moss and the muck are
stripped off that the hot summer sun makes any impression on the
ice below. Sprinkled through this ice, earth, and rock lies the gold in
the proportion of from thirty to sixty cents’ worth to the ton. In a
wagon load of this mass there is not more pure gold than you can
pinch up between your forefinger and thumb. Yet methods for mining
it have been devised that make it worth going after. There is a little
gold not far from the surface, but most of it is at bed-rock, which may
be thirty, forty, or fifty feet down.
The earth has to be thawed out, inch by inch, and foot by foot, in
such a way that the dredges can bite into it and gulp it down at the
rate of twenty-six bites to the minute and about one third of a ton to
the bite.
The dredges do their work so thoroughly that no bit of earth ever
escapes them. You can throw a red cent into the heart of a ten-acre
field that is to be upturned by these machines and be sure that the
coin will come out with the gold. A common amusement is to saw a
dime in two and then bet whether the dredges will bring up one of
the pieces. The man who bets in the negative holds one of the
halves, and the other is buried in the earth. As soon as that spot is
dredged, the missing half is almost certain to turn up.
The first miners kept wood fires burning until they had thawed
their shafts down to the gold. Other fires were then built along the
bed-rock and the earth was dugout until they had made great
caverns and tunnels thirty or forty feet under the frozen earth
overhead. They used hot stones to aid in the thawing and took out
the loosened material in wheel-barrows and raised it to the surface
with buckets and a windlass like an old-fashioned well-sweep. The
earth being frozen, the miners did not have to bother to use any
timbers to support the roofs of their tunnels.
Much of the thawing of to-day is done by steam forced into the
earth through steel tubes three fourths of an inch in diameter, and
from ten to thirty feet long. These are called “points.” Each tube has
a hard metal cap or steel head on the top, and below this an opening
where the connection with the main steam pipe is made. The bottom
of the tube is pointed so that it can be forced down into the ground. A
man stands on a tall derrick and with a twelve-pound sledge hammer
drives the pipe, inch by inch, through the earth. The steam-heated
steel melts the ice as it goes down. When the point reaches bed-
rock, it is left there for two or three days, oozing forth steam. To thaw
out enough ground for the dredges to work on, hundreds of these
steam points have to be sunk. In places the pipes are so close
together that they stand out on the back of old Mother Earth like the
quills on a porcupine. They soften the ground so that it is dangerous
to walk over it until it has cooled. A man may think it is solid under
foot, when all at once he may sink to his knees or waist in scalding
hot mud.
In the creeks where the Yukon Gold Company has been
operating with steam points and dredges, the values amount to sixty
or seventy cents’ worth of gold to the ton. The thawing costs about
thirty cents for each ton. When the famous Joe Boyle, organizer of
the Canadian Klondike Company, came to figure on his problem he
found that the steam-point method would cost him four cents more a
ton than the value of the gold he could recover. He concluded that if
he could get rid of the great non-conductor of muck and moss that
covered the frozen earth, the sun of a few summers would eventually
thaw its way down to bed-rock.
Then came the question of how to strip off the muck at a cost
that would not eat up the profits. Boyle decided that the Klondike
River itself could be made to do the job. He dammed it in places and
turned its course this way and that. The current soon cleaned off the
top layer, and when the water was drawn off it left the gravel
exposed to the rays of the sun.
Boyle spent in the neighbourhood of a half million dollars apiece
for some of the dredges with which he scooped up the earth thawed
out by the sun. They were the largest ever built up to that time, and
were manufactured especially for his purposes. They were brought
in pieces by sea to Skagway, Alaska, carried over the coast
mountains by train, and transported down the Yukon by steamer to
Dawson, where they were put to work. They are now lifting the bed
of the Klondike Valley and turning it upside down at the rate of five
hundred tons in an hour. Buckets that hold a ton apiece pick up
boulders as big as a half-bushel basket and earth as fine as flour.
They raise this stuff to the height of a six-story house and pour it
through revolving screens. The rock, gravel, and sand are carried
away, and the gold is caught in layers of coconut matting. Every
twenty-four hours the mats containing the gold are lifted and
washed. The gold and the black sand fall to the bottom and the mats
are put back again.
While I was cashing a draft at the Bank of British North America
the other day, I had concrete evidence of the wealth being won, grain
by grain, from the Klondike. I saw a shipment of gold ready to be
sent out. It had come to the bank in the form of dust and nuggets
and had been melted down into bricks. There were fifty thousand
dollars’ worth of these bricks lying on the counter, covering a space
about three feet square. They were of a light yellow colour, and
some were almost white on account of their high percentage of
silver. Some were the size of a cake of laundry soap while others
were only as big as a cake of milk chocolate. I lifted one of the larger
ones. It weighed a little more than twelve pounds and its value was
two thousand dollars. Later I saw the bank clerk put the bricks into
canvas bags and label them for export by registered mail.
Leaving the bank, I dropped in at the offices of the Northern
Commercial Company, where I watched gold dust and nuggets being
made ready for shipment to the States. The gold filled two satchels
and was worth in the neighbourhood of one hundred thousand
dollars. It was put up in little sacks the size of a five-pound salt bag.
Each sack was worth from five to ten thousand dollars.
All gold that is shipped out of Canada pays a royalty or tax to the
government, and everyone who leaves the Klondike is examined to
see that he has no gold upon him. Once a woman succeeded in
smuggling out a large quantity of nuggets and dust. She was
examined by the inspectors, but they took no account of a big flower
pot containing a rose bush that she was carrying with her. Not until
she got safely away was it learned that the soil with which the pot
seemed to be filled was only half an inch deep and that underneath
were hundreds of dollars’ worth of almost pure gold.
CHAPTER XXXVI
ROMANCES OF THE KLONDIKE