Elements of Competency and Performance Criteria

Elements of Performance criteria

competency
1. Prepare materials,
tools and 1.1. Appropriate selection of PPE according to the work to be done
equipment.
1.2. Appropriate selection of tools and equipment according to the work to
be done
1.3. Appropriate selection of materials according to the applicable quality
standards
2. Demonstrate
basics of pipe 2.1. Appropriate selection of pipes according to their types
connection
2.2. Right assembling of pipes with respect to the plumbing drawing

2.3. Pipe joints are well done with respect to the directions

3. Demonstrate
3.1. Correct installation of water closet according to their type
basics of sanitary
appliances
installation 3.2. Correct installation of bathtub according to their type

3.3. Correct installation of sink according to their type

INTRODUCTION
In this section, we explore what a plumber actually does and give you an
insight of what to expect on site.
The section will also provide an overview of the industry structure, and
information about the key organizations; this will be a useful reference as you
work through the course material because they provide a wealth of information
and further contacts.
Definitions

o Plumbing is a work of measuring, cutting, connecting, fitting, and

repairing pipes for supplying drinking water, drainage and sanitary
appliance.
 o Plumber is a person whose jobs are to connect pipes for drainage
and sanitary appliance.

o Drainage is a system where waste products are removed or

collected from building (house) by series of pipes from sanitary.

o Drain is a length of pipe laid to move soil water, waste water from
building or buildings.
Note the plumbing is a basic and substantial part of every developed economy
due to the needs for clean water and proper collection and transport of water.
General Importance of plumber
Wide range of domestic systems which matches the content of the Technical
Certificate:

➢ Cold water, including underground drainage including the

installation services to a dwelling of baths, hand wash basins,
water closets (WCs) and sinks

➢ Hot water

➢ Rainwater systems, gutters and fall Heating systems fueled by gas,

oil or pipes solid fuel Sanitation
The requirements of a competent ➢ Provide a cost
plumber: estimate for
the job
➢ Follow health and
safety legislation and ➢ Prepare the
guidance at all times work
location, making
➢ Thoroughly plan the job
sure that there is
including making sure
adequate access ➢
that all the tools,
Protect the
materials and
customer’s property

equipment are present on the ➢ Mark out,

job measure and
work out the
➢ Agree a schedule of
installation
work with the customer
requirements
or client
 ➢ Fabricate, position and ➢ Work
fix system components effectively
with
➢ Pre-commission customers, workmates and
(including testing), commission and other site visitors
decommission systems
➢ Work in an
➢ Service and maintain environmentally friendly
system components manner
➢ Promote the products
and services of the plumbing business.
Generally, we think that plumbing meets people’s basic requirements by:

➢ Keeping them healthy and clean by providing cold water for drinking, hot water for
washing and sanitation systems for the removal of waste products
➢ Keeping them warm with the help of hot water heating systems
➢ Meeting the above requirements together to ensure maximum comfort and convenience for
them by providing heating, hot and cold water systems and sanitation 365 days a year,
and 24 h a day.
Explore the plumber’s role a little further and you will see that most plumbers
usually carry out the:

• Installation

• Service

• Maintenance
LEARNING OUTCOME 1: PREPARE MATERIALS, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
1.1. IDENTIFICATION OF TOOLS USED FOR PLUMBING WORK
In plumbing, as in other skilled trades, the plumber's ability and knowledge is
closely tied to the tools used. Good tools in the hands of the skillful plumber turn
out the desired quality work. Poorly maintained or ill-adapted tools in the hands
of the same plumber cannot produce the same quality of work.
Classification of plumbing tools
As a plumber, you will be required to:

● Measure ● Fabricate

● Mark out ● Make joint

● Cut and
● Fix a range of materials.
Notice: Once you have got your tool kit, keep the tools clean and well maintained,
this should ensure a long life and keep down the cost of having to regularly buy
replacements.
Class one: Measuring and marking out tools
These are the tools used for measuring the distance and angles.
The standard tools include:
● Spirit Level: it is used for this is used checking levels
● Steel Ruler: it is used for distance measurement.
● Tape Measure: for distance measurements.
Try square: this is used for right angles checking
Vernier caliper: Is used to measure the inner and outer breadth of rods and
domains and thickness of any sort of object accurately. The Vernier calipers
can also be utilized to measure deepness of holes and objects which can be too
hard to do with any other scale.

Class two: marking tools

These are tools used for Marking on pipes where you want to cut.
Pencil, center punch, compass and dividers, etc.

❖ Class three: cutting tools

These are tools used to cut pipes and other related materials into different desired
sizes.
And in these we may have:

❖ Hacksaw:

The hacksaw cutting operation includes forward stroke operation and reverse
stroke, where forward stroke is known as cutting stroke and reverse stroke is
known as idle stroke.
Pipe cutter
This is one of the most common plumbing cutting tool used to cut water,
sanitary or sewer pipes. Generally solid, type hook type and chain type pipe
cutters are used.

Die stock
Cutting external threads is achieved through the use of a die, held in stock.
Class four: fitting and holding tools
These are tools which are used for holding the pipes, pipe fittings and fixtures
for plumbing operations are called holding tools. Some of the commonly used
holding and fixing tools are mentioned below.
Bench vice
A vice is tools used for holding pipes for various tasks like chipping, threading,
cutting, filing and bending.

Pipe vice
This is the tool used for holding the pipe for assembly, disassembly, threading,
cutting. etc.
These pipe vices are classified into two groups;
1.open side pipe vice
2.fixed side pipe vice
Standard size of vices are 80 mm, 105 mm, 130 mm, 170 mm, etc., as per the
opened size of the jaws.
● Pipe wrenches
These are hand tools for tightening and loosing bolts and nuts and these are
also used in opening or fixing sanitary appliances.

Note: Pipe wrenches are divided into adjustable and non-adjustable

Spanners
This tool is used for tightening and loosening nuts and bolts of standard size.
The standard spanners used are:
Ring spanners
These spanners have full circular closed ring at both ends. It is difficult to slip
and cause damage. It is made through forging process, with a burnished finish
or a chrome-plating.
Open-ended spanners
These types of spanners are open from both sides and are used for tightening
and loosening nuts and bolts, A spanner having
These types of spanners are open from both sides and are used for tightening
and loosening nuts and bolts. A spanner having open-ended jaws slides
through the nut or bolt with square or hexagonal heads. The bolts or nuts are
then turned with the required force to screw or to unscrew.
Class five: Pipe bending tools
In most of the plumbing operations, pipes are required to be bent at different
angles as per requirement, for which pipe bending tools are used. Some of
these tools are mentioned below
Pipe bending machine
This equipment is used to bend or turn pipes. The size and strength of the
machine depends on the manufacture’s specifications

.
.
Class six: smoothing tools
These are the tools used to smoothen the pipes and to remove burns.
File and reamer
Aligning and checking tools
These are tools used for pipes alignment and horizontal or vertical checking.
Spirit level& plumb bob.
Other tools

1. chisel: It is made of hard metal and is mostly used for cutting concrete
surface and making grooves in the walls with the help of a hammer.

2. hammer: These are general purpose workshop hand tools used for
straightening of sections, riveting, striking of nails and inserting the
component by striking, inserting keyways.
3.screw driver: This tool is often used by plumbers to fit the screws.
Screwdrivers have a sharp tip which can easily fit into various screws. Different
types of screwdriver are used for various types of screws.
MAINTENANCE OF PLUMBING WORK TOOLS
Power tools and other machines are designed for long life, but each requires
some care and maintenance to meet its life expectancy. Properly storing power
tools, performing maintenance as needed, and replacing machine parts will
extend a tool's life to its full potential and deliver more value to its owner. We
offer some general tips and
guidelines below for extending the life of any machine or power tool. Proper
Storage Our three guidelines for tool storage are:

1. Store tools in an area protected from the elements (like

moisture).

2. Store tools in a clean and organized space.

3. Store tools in a well-ventilated area.

Maintaining tools and equipment

✔ Cleaning

✔ Repair

✔ Replace
Care and Maintenance: Before being stored, most power tools can use a little
cleaning and a couple of quick checks for damage or other problems. Here's
some maintenance tips for keeping those tools in good shape:

➢ Use a toothbrush and a soft cloth to wipe debris from power

tool casings before storage.
Cleaning power tool

➢ If available, use an air compressor to clean out power tool

vents. A little air will go a long way. When a machine or tool can
breathe more, it will run cooler and wear more slowly.
Lubricate power tool parts that need to be lubricated. Following instructions in
the tool's user manual will help here.

➢ Check the parts that hold a tool together, screws, and other
fasteners. Tighten up anything that might have been shaken
loose during operation.

➢ Electrical cords should be checked with each use of a power

tool. A bad power cord can be dangerous and should be
replaced before the tool is used again.

➢ Keep blades and other cutting accessories sharp. Check bits

and other accessories for wear and damage.
TYPES OF MAINTENANCE
1.Preventive Maintenance
Preventive maintenance is aimed at catching and fixing problems before they
happen. It is most commonly carried out in the form of regular inspections,
usually occurring multiple times per year.
When you inspect a system or a piece of technology, carefully check for all
signs of wear, tear or imminent breakdown. Replace damaged parts
immediately. This will prevent having to go into “crisis mode” if something
breaks unexpectedly.
The primary benefit of preventive maintenance is that it can eliminate
unplanned shutdown time as you will ideally catch problems before they occur.
2. periodic Maintenance
3. Predictive Maintenance
Predictive maintenance refers to a specific type of condition-based maintenance
in which systems are constantly observed via sensor devices. These devices are
attached to components of the system and feed constant, real-time data to
software. The software then interprets this data and warns maintenance
technicians of approaching danger.
Predictive maintenance is generally considered to be the most advanced and
intensive type of maintenance. This is because there is a lot of data to interpret
– and the sensor devices themselves need to be regularly maintained and
checked.

4. Corrective Maintenance
Corrective maintenance is initiated when a problem is discovered while working
on another work order. With corrective maintenance issues are caught ‘just in
time'.
For example, during a scheduled maintenance check or while fixing another
issue, a maintenance technician notices that a pipe in a HVAC system is not
working as it should. Corrective maintenance is then scheduled for a future
date where the problem is repaired or replaced.
Because corrective maintenance issues are found ‘just in time’, it reduces
emergency repairs and increases employee safety.
IDENTIFICATION OF EQUIPMENT FOR PLUMBING WORK
Power (special)tools: drilling machine, angle grinding machine, gig notching
machine.
In plumbing there are equipment or power machines used to carry heavy
work,
1. power threading machine: used for cutting, threading and reaming the
pipe is used for cutting threads both internal and external of pipe
2.Drilling machine: used to drill hole on metal piece
3.Shearing machine: used to cut sheet metal
4.Hydrolic press bending machine (Hydraulic press bender/pipe bending
machine): used to bend pipe at the required angle

5.Rolling machine: used to form cylindrical shape on sheet metal

6.High speeds wheel cutting machine
7.Jigger notching device: is used for drilling
8.Power hack saw: is used for cutting easy
SAFETY PRECAUTION IN WORKSHOP
GENERAL INTRODUCTION
The health and safety of people working in the plumbing industry is of major
concern to all of us.
Where very possible and regardless of the actual job to be carried out, you
must wear Personal Protective
Equipment (PPE).
Eliminating hazards through engineering or administrative control measures is
the best way to protect people. The strategy used for the selection of controls is
called the “hierarchy of controls” which prioritizes the types of controls that are
most effective in eliminating or reducing the risk of exposure to the hazard.

PPE selection should be based on a Job Hazard Analysis (JHA), which includes
evaluation of hazards, specific tasks, procedures and work practices, in
consultation with area supervision and activity to be carried out.
PPE can protect workers only if it is properly selected, worn, and maintained.
PPE or Personal Protective Equipment is seen as the last stop in preventing
harm to plumbers and heating engineers at work, after every effort has been
made to remove or minimize hazards.
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT
Goggles: are used to protect your eyes from small pieces of materials, swat
threw from machine when drilling or cutting holes’ bucks or blocks.

Hard hats/helmet can protect workers’ heads from being hit by objects or
coming in contact with plumbing works. Different types of hard hats protect
against different hazards

❖ Overall /overcoat: don’t wear the loosely fitting clothing when

machine is in rotation you should wear overall/overcoat.

❖ Feet wear/ strong boots: are used to protect your feet against
heavy sharp dropping objects.
 ❖ Gloves: are used for protecting the hands against any direct
contact with sharp materials.

NOTE: After that personal protective equipment a fire extinguisher must be

installed.
A fire extinguisher is an active fire protection device used to extinguish or
control small fires, often in emergencies. which has reached the ceiling,
endangers the user (i.e.,
no escape route, smoke, explosion hazard, etc.). Typically, a fire extinguisher
consists of a hand-held cylindrical pressure vessel containing an agent that
can be discharged to extinguish a fire.
Fire extinguishers manufactured with non-cylindrical pressure vessels also
exist but are less common.
Fire prevention: in engineering field modern extinguishers contain same
product like water, foam, powder, carbon dioxide (co2).
Fire extinguisher: these are closes of fire extinguishers which are classified
depending on the content inside, the container colour codes and their use.

CLASS COLOUR CONTENT USE

CODE

A Red Water Used to stop a fire produced by wood

and paper.

B Yellow Foam Used to stop burning liquid fire.

C Blue Powder Used to stop burning liquid fire and

electricity fire

D Black Carbon Used to stop burning liquid fire and

Dioxide electricity fire
 E Green Foam Or Used to stop burning liquid fire and
Powder electricity fire

1.3. IDENTIFICATION OF MATERIALS USED FOR PLUMBING WORK

PROPERTIES OF MATERIALS
What are a material’s properties?
In general terms, you may say this could be how strong it is, how well it
conducts heat or electricity, or how flexible it is.
Scientifically, materials are classified according to a variety of properties and
characteristics.
The properties can be measured as the materials reaction to a variety of
influences on both metals and plastics,

The following bellow is common properties of plumbing materials:

● Mechanical properties, such as hardness, strength, elasticity, toughness,
stiffness, ductility,
Malleability
● Thermal properties like conductivity (how well or poorly a material will
conduct heat)
● Electrical properties like conductivity (how well or poorly a material will
conduct electricity)
● Chemical properties like reactivity and solubility
● Optical properties like transparency, reflectivity, and refractivity
● Magnetic properties.
Explanations of some key words in properties of plumbing materials.

➢ Hardness
There are many different aspects of materials which could be considered as a
measure of hardness. Hardness can mean resistance to permanent or plastic
deformation by scratching, indentation, bending, breaking, abrasion or
fracture. This is a very important factor in materials which have to resist wear
or abrasion – a sink tap for example – and frequently needs to be considered
along with the strength of materials.

➢ Strength
The strength of a material is the extent to which a material can withstand an
applied force or load (stress) without breaking. Load is expressed in terms of
force per unit area, and is measured in Newton’s per square metre (N/m2). This
can be in the form of:
● Compression force, as applied to the piers of a bridge, or a roof support or
beams when are Bringing each together
● Tensile or stretching force, as applied to a guitar string, tow rope or crane
cable while pulling It apart.
● Shear force, it is when a material receives forces which would cause it to
tear or fracture.

➢ Elasticity
Almost all materials will stretch to some extent when a tensile force is applied
to them. This increase in length on loading, compared to the original length of
the material, is known as strain.
As increased loading continues, a point is reached when the material will no
longer return to its original shape and size on removal of the load, and
permanent deformation has occurred. The material is said to have exceeded its
elastic limit or yield stress, beyond which the material is suffering plastic
deformation – it is being stretched irreversibly.
Some other important characteristics which must be considered when
considering material used in the plumbing trade are:

➢ Plasticity The exact opposite of elasticity: a material which does not

return to its original shape when deformed

➢ Ductility: Is the ability of a material to withstand distortion without

fracture, an example is a metal such as copper that can be drawn out
into a fine wire

➢ Durability: The material’s ability to resist wear and tear

➢ Fusibility: The melting point of a material, i.e. when a solid change to a

liquid

➢ Malleability: The ability of a metal to be worked without fracture; sheet

lead is a very malleable metal
 ➢ Temper: The degree of hardness in a metal

➢ Tenacity: A material’s ability to resist being pulled apart

➢ Thermal: The amount a material expands when expansion heated.

Here are how some common materials ‘shape up’ (reacts)

➢ Mild steel: has little elasticity, but has a high yield stress and is fairly
ductile, i.e. has a large range over which it can sustain plastic
deformation. It also has a high tensile strength.

➢ Cast iron - is brittle and has poor elasticity and has no ability to sustain
plastic Deformation, although its tensile strength is higher than that of
concrete.

➢ Copper - has little elasticity, but is ductile. It has an ultimate tensile

strength less than half that of mild steel.

➢ Concrete - has little elasticity, and the lowest tensile strength of the
four, but is extremely strong in compression.
Materials used in plumbing work
By now you should have an idea of the basic properties of material.
Next we are going to look at plumbing pipework materials. There is no perfect
pipework material that is suitable for all applications; different materials
perform better in relation to different factors and conditions which can affect
pipework such as:
● Pressure
● Properties of the water
● Cost
● Bending and jointing method
● Corrosion resistance
● Expansion
● Appearance.
LEARNING OUTCOME 2: DEMONSTRATE BASICS OF PIPE CONNECTIONS
2.1. SELECTION OF PIPES
2.1.1. Identification of plumbing pipes
A pipe is a tubular section or hollow cylinder, usually but not necessarily of
circular cross-section, used mainly to convey substances which can flow —
liquids and gases (fluids), slurries, powders, masses of small solids.
The following factors should be considered in selection of pipes:
• Strength of pipe
• Water carrying capacity

• Life and durability of pipe

• purpose of the pipe • Expenditure on transportation
• Economy.

• Jointing process, maintenance and repairs.

Types of pipe used in plumbing
1: metal pipes

✓ Steel pipe

✓ Cast iron pipe

✓ Copper pipe

✓ Aluminum pipe
✓ Lead pipe

✓ Galvanized iron steel pipe.

2: plastic pipe

• (PVC pipe

• PPR pipes (Polypropylene Random pipes)

This type of pipe has inside a layer of fiberglass meets the requirements of
reduced flammability. There are two main categories of synthetic plastics used
in the plumbing industry.
 • UPVC pipe

• ABS pipe (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene)

This pipe is mainly used as a vent and drain line.
ABS pipe looks very much like PVC pipe, except that it is black and slightly
softer. Advantages

✓ Stronger than PVC pipes

✓ Good for underground exterior use

✓ Works well in cold temperatures

Disadvantages
Often not permitted by building code
Warps and deforms at certain temperatures

• PB pipe (polybutylene pipe)

 • PE pipe (polyethylene)
This types of pipes allows the combination the pipe system with the system for
fire protection in residencies.

• MDPE pipe

• HDPE pipe
Factors that make the plastic pipe to be the most popular used in water
supply are:

❖ Easy to connect

❖ Light in weight

❖ Not be rusting

❖ It is flexible

❖ No contamination
 ❖ Easy to maintain
Factors affecting the selection of pipe to be used for any plumbing work
are:

❖ Strength of the pipe

❖ Water carrying capacity

❖ Durability of the pipe

❖ Joining process

❖ Cost of buying

❖ Transportation method

❖ Corrosion resistivity

3.concrete pipe: For heavy drainage water disposal, concrete pipes of large
diameters are used. Small diameter pipes are used for small flows. These are
made of concrete only; no reinforcement is provided. These are pre casted
pipes.

4.ceramic pipe
5.woodern pipe
STANDARD PIPE SIZES COMMON USED IN PIPING
The table below shows nominal diameter of pipes.
 Imperial system Metric system Imperial system Metric system
(inches) (in mm) (inches) (in mm)

¼ 8 3 76

½ 13~15 3 1/4 82

¾ 20 3 1/2 90

1 25 4 100

1¼ 32 4 1/4 108

1 1/8 28 4 3/8 110

1½ 40

2¼ 60

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF STEEL PIPES

Alloys can be produced either by mixing different metals or by mixing metals
with non-metallic elements, such as carbon. Steel is one of the most common
alloys in the world and many plumbing materials and appliances are made of
different types of steel.
Properties of Low Carbon steel (mild steel) pipe:

▪ Its structure is fibrous with dark bluish color.

▪ It highly ductile and malleable.

▪ It is more tough and elastic.

▪ It is more rusting attractive.

▪ It corrodes quickly.

▪ It withstands shocks and impacts well.

▪ It can be permanently magnetized.

▪ It is difficult to harden and temper.

▪ It is equally both in tension, compression and shear.

▪ It is much affected by saline water.

Galvanized Steel Pipe
Galvanized steel is the strongest material for water supply lines and is
preferred for piping exposed to damage. It is heavy, and must be joined with
threaded fittings. Most plumbing-supply stores will cut the length you need
and thread them.
Galvanized steel pipe was used for decades for drainage, water supply, gas
supply, and any number of other purposes. Each end of the pipe is threaded,
and individual pipes are screwed into each other with connecting joints.
Cast iron pipe was often used for sewer and other drainage purposes. Cast
iron pipe is still found in many homes. Cast iron pipe is viable until the point
that it rusts completely through. Cast iron is very heavy and difficult to cut.
Advantages
Galvanized steel pipe has the advantage of being extremely strong.
Disadvantages
Galvanized steel pipe eventually corrodes and blocks water flow. Some
galvanized steel pipe may pass lead into the water supply.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF COPPER PIPES

COPPER
Copper is a malleable and ductile material which you will use frequently
throughout your plumbing career. There are several types of copper tubes
manufactured for use in the plumbing trade:

➢ Soft annealed coils: is a copper tube used for micro bore pipe work and
can be bent by hand or bending machine

➢ Half hard straight length: is the copper tube most commonly used above
ground for most plumbing and heating installations. It is fairly rigid and
usually needs to be bent using a bending machine or spring.

➢ A more rigid thin-walled copper tube: is also available. The tube is

mainly used for export purposes and cannot be bent. Tubes complying with
the above specifications are not intended to be buried underground.

➢ Thick-walled soft annealed coil: is most commonly used underground for

the conveyance of water.
 ➢ The outside diameter of the tube is the same for each type, but there are
differences in the internal bore size due to the variations in wall thickness.
Note: the common application of copper piping includes hot and cold drinking
water supplies.
It is available as: rigid pipe &Flexible tubing or coils.
Rigid pipe is tougher, but flexible tubing is easier to install, particularly when
adding to existing plumbing.
Rigid pipe must be soldered with sweat fittings, while flexible can also be joined
mechanically with flare or compression fittings.
Flexible tubing comes in four types:
Type K: the heaviest, mainly for underground lines outdoors, and medium
weight.
Type M: generally adequate for homes.
DWV: is used for drain and vent. (Drainage waste and vent).
Type L: Rigid pipe comes in types K and L, and in lightweight.
Properties of Copper pipe

▪ Its structure is crystalline and the color is reddish brown.

▪ It highly ductile and malleable.

▪ It can be soldered only at red heat.

▪ It is an excellent conductor of electricity.

▪ It withstands corrosion well.

▪ It turns to greenish when exposed to atmosphere.

▪ It soft and highly flexible.

▪ It is tough and withstands wear well.

▪ It’s light in weight.

▪ Dents in copper can be hammered out without any damage.

LEAD
Traditionally, lead was commonly used for water supply, sanitary and rainwater
pipe work, pipe fittings but these days, its main use in the plumbing industry is
for sheet lead weathering as its use for new water supply pipe work is prohibited
due some poisonous in it, although you may come into contact with lead
pipework if renewing an old service pipe.
Lead is a very heavy, valuable metal which requires careful handling. It is ideal
for sheet roof work as it is extremely malleable.
Properties of Lead pipe

▪ Its bluish grey in color.

▪ It highly ductile and malleable.

▪ It is so soft that it can be cut by knife.

▪ Its melting point is 326˚C and boiling point is 1150˚C.

▪ It does not corrode.

▪ It is a good conductor of heat and electricity.

CAST IRON
Pig iron is remelted with lime stone and coke and poured into moulds of desired
pipe shapes and size to get purer product known as cast iron.
Cast iron is sometimes used on historic buildings and unlike lead, cast iron is
occasionally used on new public buildings and commercial buildings, where its
strength and rigidity are an advantage. Cast iron was used in the manufacture of
baths.
Properties of Cast iron pipe

▪ Its structure is coarse, crystalline and fibrous.

▪ It is brittle.

▪ It cannot be magnetized.

▪ It can be hardened but cannot tempered.

▪ It is neither malleable nor ductile.

 ▪ It does not rust.

▪ It becomes soft in saline water.

▪ It cannot withstand shocks and impacts.

▪ It is stronger in compression but in tension and shear.

▪ It lacks plasticity

▪ Its melting point is 1200˚C

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF PVC
PVC (Polyvinylchloride) - These pipes are only for cold water and are used most
often to carry water from the main supply to a home. PVC pipes must also be
approved for drinking water.
PVC and other Plastic pipes have the following characteristics:

➢ Plastic pipes are easy to work with.

➢ Light-weight.

➢ Lower cost.

➢ Durability.

➢ Corrosion resistance

➢ Chemical resistance.

➢ High impact strength ➢ Lower temperature resistance

➢ Lower ultimate tensile strength.

2.2. ASSEMBLING OF PIPES
IDENTIFICATION OF PLUMBING DRAWING
A plumbing drawing, a type of technical drawing, shows the system of piping for
fresh water going into the building and waste going out, both solid and liquid. It
also includes fuel gas drawings.
Below drawings are examples of plumbing drawing:
\ fittings
Typical plumbing drawing
 Fig 1.2. Drainage and Vents drawing

SANITARY APPLIANCES SYMBOLS

Architectural drawing symbols also form an important role in any architecture
drawing and help to define elements such as floor levels, lighting types and
service locations.
Electrical layouts in particular, require many different items and abbreviations,
and accompanied by a key, symbols provide a clear and tidy method of identifying
their placement, type and use.

Below symbols are examples of sanitary appliance symbols.

Fig. common plumbing symbols
MARKING OF PLUMBING ELEMENTS
Plumbing system consists of three parts: an adequate potable water supply
system, a safe and adequate drainage system and fixtures and equipment.
IDENTIFICATION OF STANDARD UNIT USED IN PLUMBING:
1. Metric system unit: A system of measurement in which the basic
units are the meter,

2. Imperial system unit: is a system of weights and measures that

includes pounds, ounces, feet, yards, miles, etc. We also call it imperial
units
A system of measurement in use in the United Kingdom and other
Commonwealth countries, now mostly superseded by the metric system; similar
to the system currently used in the United States; consisting of units such as
the inch, the mile and the pound (of weight)
Relationship between Metric System and Imperial system
1Inch =25.4mm
Imperial system Metric System

1inch 25.4mm

2.3. MAKING PIPE JOINTS

TYPES OF DIRECTIONS IN PIPE CONNECTION
An elbow: is a pipe fitting installed between two lengths of pipe or tubing to allow
a change of direction, usually a 90° or 45° angle, though 22.5° elbows are also
made. these are mentioned as types of directions in pipes connection
The ends may be machined for butt welding, threaded (usually female), or
socketed, etc. When the two ends differ in size, the fitting is called a reducing
elbow or reducer elbow.
CUTTING PIPES WITH A HACKSAW /PIPE CUTTER
procedures of cutting a copper pipe using a pipe cutter:
A pipe/tube cutter is the best option to make a straight cut for copper pipes. It
comes in single blade and an adjustable lever to provide the proper force cutting.
Step 1. Prior the work, wear PPE.
Step 2: prepare copper tube, tube cutter, reamer, sand cloth, brush.
Step 3. make measurements to the desired pipe length.
Step 4. Insert the copper pipe inside pipe cutter.
Step 5. Hold the pipe properly to produce a good result.
Step 6. Adjust the lever until the blade touches the pipe.
Step 7. Using a counter clockwise direction, move the pipe cutter by one whole
turn until you feel that the blade is starting to cut the pipe. After that reverse it
by clockwise rotation.
Step 8. While on clockwise turning, adjust the lever from time to time until the
pipe is completely cut.
Step 9. By using a reamer, remove the burrs from inside the pipe.
Step 10. Clean the pipe by Sand cloth and by brush.

pipe cutting using a hacksaw

Step 1. Prior to the cutting work, make sure that all PPE’s are available and
being used.
Step 2. Make measurements to the desired pipe length.
Step 3. mark the pipe where cutting is to be done.
Step 4. Make a cut at a 90 degrees angle to pipe.
Step 5. A fixture should be used to ensure an accurate cut.
Step 6. After pipe cutting, ream the pipe and file the end.
Step 7. Remove all the chips and fillings, making sure that no debris or particles
get into tubing.
CUTTING THREADS ON PIPE
When you’re making plumbing repairs or installing new plumbing, it may be
necessary to add threading to a damaged pipe or cut threads on the end of a new
pipe. Purchase or rent a manual ratcheting pipe threader and use it to thread
piping yourself. If you are planning to do a lot of pipe threading or have a
plumbing business, there are also hand-held power threaders and threading
machines that you could use. However, these types of automatic threaders are
very expensive and not practical for simple home use when an affordable
ratcheting pipe threader can get the job done just as well.
steps of threading a pipe
Step 1. Put on work gloves and safety glasses. These will protect your hands
and eyes from any metal slivers and accidental cuts. It will also keep your hands
clean as you lubricate the pipe and pipe threader throughout the process.
Step 2. Secure the pipe firmly in a vise. Loosen the jaws of the vise by turning
the handle counterclockwise just far enough to fit the pipe between them. Place
the pipe in the vise so the end you want to thread is sticking out, then turn the
handle back clockwise to tighten it and secure it in place.
Step 3. Choose a die head based on the pipe’s diameter. Read the numbers on
the different die heads for the ratcheting pipe threader to see what sizes they are.
Select a die head that is of the appropriate size for the pipe you want to add threads
to.
• A die head is the part of the pipe threader that actually cuts the threads.
Ratcheting pipe threaders typically come with die heads in a few different
common diameters. The face of the die head has numbers on it that indicate
the size of pipe it is for. For example, if it says 1/2 on it, the die head is for
threading 1/2-inch piping.
Step 4. Attach the die head to a ratcheting pipe threader handle. Remove any
die head that is already in the handle by pulling it out. Slide your selected die head
into ring at the end of the handle until it snaps all the way into place.
• The ratcheting handle is the handle you use to move it around the end of
the pipe to cut the threads in it.
Tip: Most ratcheting pipe threaders can be used to thread pipes made out of
different materials like galvanized metal, copper, or PVC.

Step Lubricate the end of the pipe with Apply a generous squeeze 5.
threading oil. or two of
threading oil to the outside end of the pipe. This will lubricate it so it’s easier
to put the die head on as well as lubricate the teeth of the die head, making
it easier to cut the threads.
• Don’t worry about applying too much lubricant. You need a lot to get the
job done, so just squirt away until you have completely saturated the outside
end of the pipe that you are going to cut threads into.
Step 6. Place the die head onto the end of the pipe. Slide the center hole of
the die cutter onto the end of the pipe. Push it into place as far as it will go.
• If it’s hard to get onto the pipe, you can squirt some more threading oil onto
the pipe and the middle of the die head to make it easier.
Step 7. Ratchet the handle while applying pressure to the die head to start
cutting. Push against the die head, towards the pipe, with 1 hand. Ratchet the
pipe threader’s handle clockwise with your other hand as far as you can go,
maintaining pressure on the die head as you do so to make the teeth start cutting
into the pipe.
• If you feel resistance as you do this, then you know the teeth are biting into
the pipe and
starting to cut the threads. If you don’t feel any resistance, you probably need to
push harder on the die head.
Step 8. Keep ratcheting the handle until all the die head’s teeth have cut
into the pipe. Turn the handle back counterclockwise about 3/4 of the way,
then ratchet it clockwise as far as you can go, using your bodyweight to help you
turn it. Repeat this until all the die head’s teeth are around the pipe, which
means all the threads have been cut.
• If at any point you feel increased resistance while cutting, stop ratcheting
and apply more threading oil to the exposed teeth of the die head.
Step 9. Reverse the direction of the ratchet handle and ratchet it off the
threads. Pull up the little black knob next to the die head and turn it to reverse
the direction of the ratchet handle. Ratchet it counterclockwise as far as it will go,
then turn it back clockwise about 3/4 of the way, and repeat until you have
unscrewed the teeth of the die head from the threads.
• When you have unscrewed the die head all the way, you can simply pull it
to slide it off the end of the pipe.
Step 10. Wrap Teflon tape clockwise around the threads at the end of the
pipe. Seal the threads with 2-3 wraps of Teflon tape before you attach any
connectors or fittings.
Threading pipe ends.
Insert the correct size die into the die stock. Slide the die stock over the pipe and
apply pressure with one hand. With the other hand, turn the stock handle slowly
clockwise until the die has taken a bite on the pipe.
Apply cutting oil to the die as the stock handle is given one complete clockwise
turn and backed off a quarter turn. Repeat this action until 1/4 inch of the pipe
is beyond the die stock. The pipe is now threaded properly. Turn the handle in a
counterclockwise direction to remove the pipe.
Fig. Dies for threading
Assembling of joints and threaded taps
MAKING A JOINT ON TWO DISTANT PIPES
Different modes of pipe connection

❖ Fastener
A fastener is a hardware device that mechanically joins or affixes two or more
objects together. The following are the type of fasteners commonly used:
▪ Stud bolt with nut
▪ Machine bolt with nut
Usually the stud bolts are used with full threading and with two heavy hexagonal
nuts.
 ❖ Threaded pipe

A threaded pipe is a pipe with a screw thread at one or both ends for assembly.
Steel pipe is often joined using threaded connections, where tapered threads are
cut into the end of the tubing segment.

❖ Solvent welding
A solvent is applied to PVC, CPVC, ABS, or other plastic piping, to partially
dissolve and fuse the adjacent surfaces of piping and fitting.
Solvent welding is usually used with a sleeve-type joint, to connect pipe and
fittings made of the same (or closely compatible) material.

❖ Soldering
To make a solder connection, a chemical flux is applied to the inner sleeve of a
sleeve type joint, and the pipe is inserted. The joint is then heated using a
propane torch , solder is applied to the heated joint, and the melted solder is
drawn into the joint by capillary action as the flux vaporizes.
Sweating is an alternate term sometimes used to describe soldering of pipe
joints.
Advantages of this connection:

• Time serve
• Less expensive
❖ Brazing
Brazing is a thermal joining process in which the two pieces of the base metal are
joined when a molten brazing filler metal is allowed to be drawn into a capillary
gap between them.
Advantages:
 • Successfully brazed joints are as strong as the parent metal pieces being
joined and Can withstand demanding service conditions i.e. they are strong
and ductile.

• Well brazed joints have smooth, neat fillets and they offer good electrical
conductivity.

❖ Welding
Welding of metals differs from soldering and brazing, in that the connection is
made without adding a special low-melting-point material (e.g. solder) to complete
a joint. Instead, the material of the pipe or tubing is itself partially melted in a
carefully controlled manner, and the fitting and piping are directly fused together.
Generally, this requires that the piping and the fitting be made of the same (or
closely compatible) material.
JOIN PVC PIPES
Commonly methods used to join PVC pipes are sited and discussed below;

1. Ring joint : A Ring Type Joint Flange is a type of flange that uses a
metal ring that sits in a hexagonal groove as a gasket to seal the
flange pair. The flanges seal when the bolts are tightened and the
gasket is compressed into the groove making a metal to metal seal. An
RTJ flange usually has a raised face with the groove machined into
the face of the flange.
The raised face doesn’t serve as a way to contain the pressure.

Figure: Ring type joint flange

2. solvent-weld joint:
A pipe joint made by spreading a cement on two plastic surfaces to be joined. The
cement reacts chemically with these surfaces, thereby dissolving the material.
Then these two surfaces are placed in contact; a solid joint is formed when
hardening takes place.
figure: solvent-weld joint

3. Threaded fittings
Types of Threaded Joints
Threaded joints are specified below for the way a joint is made, or for its purpose.
Direct joints
The component parts to be joined have internal or external thread and are
directly screwed together. No additional fastening elements are needed.

Figure. Direct joint

Indirect joints
The component parts to be joined are held together by standardized components,
i.e. bolts, screws and nuts. Locking devices and washers may be used
additionally.
Where a component part has a female thread, the joint may be made without a
nut. The walls of the work-piece must be sufficiently thick for this kind of joint.
Figure. Indirect joint

Fastening joints
The component parts are to be joined directly or indirectly only for the purpose of
connecting them. The vee-thread, ISO metric vee-thread or Whitworth thread, are
the preferred types of thread. Both threads are self-retaining.

Figure. Screwed joint for fastening purpose

Adjustable joints
The component parts are joined for the purpose of connecting them and
transmitting movements or forces. The preferred types of thread are round
thread, acme standard screw thread or saw-tooth thread.
These are less self-retaining.
Figure. Adjustable joint
Advantages of threaded joint

1. Threaded joints are detachable joints which help to joint different

parts together easily as well as remove or separate from each other.

2. Threaded joints are reliable

3. Threads joints can be used in any position vertical, horizontal or

inclined because threaded joints are self-locking.

4. Threads are easy or simple in manufacturing hence they are cost

effective.

5. Threaded joints are used in various sizes from small size to large size.

6. Threaded joint components are standardized like screw, bolt and nut.

7. Threaded joining process is simple to use.

Disadvantages of threaded joint
1. Threaded joint parts are subjected to stress concentration near to hole which
causes to failure of joint parts.
4. Use fusion
Heat fusion (sometimes-called heat welding, butt welding or simply fusion) is a
welding process used to join two different pieces of a thermoplastic. This process
involves heating both pieces simultaneously and pressing them together. The two
pieces then cool together and form a permanent bond. When done properly, the
two pieces become indistinguishable from each other.
Cutting PVC pipes
While cutting PVC plastic pipes either, a plastic tubing cutter or a hacksaw can
be used. Cuts must be straight to ensure watertight joint. PVC plastic are joined
with plastic fitting and solvent glue. Use solvent glue that is made for the type of
plastic pipe you are installing.
Solvent glue hardens in about 30seconds, so test-fit all plastic pipes and fittings
before gluing the first joint some solvent glues, called “all-purpose” or “universal”
solvents, may be used on all types of plastic pipe. For best results, the surfaces of
plastic pipes and fittings should be dulled with emery cloth and liquid primer
before they are joined. Liquid solvent glues and primers are toxic and flammable.
Provide adequate ventilation when fitting Plastics, and store the products away
from any source of heat.

Tools & Materials needed:

⮚ Tape measure ⮚ Fittings

⮚ Felt-tipped pen ⮚ Emery cloth

⮚ Tubing cutter or hacksaw ⮚ Plastic pipe

primer
⮚ Utility knife
⮚ Solvent glue
⮚ Channel-type pliers
⮚ Rag
⮚ Gloves
⮚ Petroleum jell
⮚ Plastic pipe
Cutting Process

⮚ Prepare the materials and tools according to drawings.

⮚ Join PVC pipes using fittings or glue.

⮚ Check the joints for leakage

Find the length of plastic pipe needed by measuring between the bottoms of the
fitting sockets (fittings shown in cutaway). Mark the length on the pipe with a felt-
tipped pen.
Tools for cutting PVC pipes
1.Plastic tubing cutters do a fast, neat job of cutting. You’ll probably have to go
to a professional plumbing supply store to find one, however. They are not
interchangeable with metal tubing cutters.
2.The best cutting tool for plastic pipe is a power miter saw with a fine tooth
woodworking blade or plastic specific blade.
3. A ratcheting plastic-pipe cutter can cut smaller diameter PVC.
Process of joining PVC pipes

1) Remove rough burrs on cut ends of plastic pipe, using a utility

knife.

2) Test-fit all pipes and fittings. Pipes should fit tightly against the
bottom of the fitting sockets 3) Mark the depth of the fitting sockets on
the pipes.

4) Apply a light coat of plastic pipe primer to the ends of the pipes and
to the insides of the fitting sockets.

5) Solvent-glue each joint by applying a thick coat of solvent glue to the

end of the pipe.

6) Quickly position the pipe and fitting so that the alignment marks are
offset by about 2".

7) Spread solvent by twisting the pipe until the marks are aligned

8) Wipe away excess solvent glue with a rag. Do not disturb the joint
for 30 minutes after gluing.
Solvent welding is a chemical bonding process used to Permanently join PVC pipes
and fittings.
JOIN COPPER PIPES
Copper pipes joining
Copper is the ideal material for water supply pipes. It resists corrosion and has
smooth surfaces that provide good water flow. Copper pipe is manufactured in
rigid and flexible forms Rigid copper, sometimes called hard copper, is
approved for home water supply systems by all local codes. It comes in three
wall-thickness grades:
Types M, L, and K. Type M is the thin nest, the least expensive, and a good choice
for do-it-yourself home plumbing.
Different methods of joining copper pipes:

● Compression joints: A compression joint is one which uses a fitting

to join two or more pipes by compressing a small brass ring, known as
an olive, between the fitting and the pipe.
Compression joints should never be over tightened as the pipe can kink making
it impossible to seal.

Compression T Junction
Capillary joints: Capillary joints are used to join sections of copper pipe in
plumbing and heating systems. Unlike a compression joint, which uses the
force exerted on a small ring of copper by tightening a nut to seal the
connection, capillary joints rely on a seal of molten and then cooled solder.
The solder is inserted into the joint (either at manufacture, or by the person
installing the pipe), heated and then allowed to cool, hopefully creating a
perfect seal.
Figure: Capillary joint

● Brazing joints: Brazing is a metal-joining process in which two or

more metal items are joined together by melting and flowing a filler
metal into the joint, the filler metal having a lower melting point than
the adjoining metal.

Brazing practice
Joining with Soldered fittings, also called sweat Fittings, often are used to join
copper pipes. Correctly, soldered fittings are strong and trouble-free.
Copper pipe can also be joined with compression fittings or flare fittings.
 Soldered joint
Joining with Compression Fittings:
Compression fittings are used to make connections that may need to be taken
apart. Compression fittings are easy to disconnect and are often used to install
supply tubes and fixture shutoff valves. Use compression fittings in places
where it is unsafe or difficult to solder, such as in crawl spaces. Compression
fittings are used most often with flexible copper pipe. Flexible copper is soft
enough to allow the compression ring to seat snugly, creating a watertight seal.
Compression fittings also may be used to make connections with Type M rigid
copper pipe.

Compression fittings
Parts of a Compression Fitting:
The pipe compression fittings consist of three parts:

a. Compression nut

b. Compression ring or inner ring or “olive”, and

c. Compression seat

Figure: Parts of compression fittings

Joining two Copper Pipes with a compression union fitting
1) Slide compression nuts and rings over the ends of pipes. Place a threaded
union between the pipes.
2) Apply a layer of pipe joint compound or Teflon tape to the union’s threads,
then screw compression nuts onto the union.
3) Hold the center of the union fitting with an adjustable wrench and use
another wrench to tighten each compression nut one complete turn. Turn on the
water. If the fitting leaks, tighten the nuts gently.
SOLDER JOINT FITTINGS
There are two types of solder fittings for copper pipe:

1. Wrought copper fittings: Are made from copper tubing cut and
shaped as required.

2. Cast solder fittings: Wrought fittings are easy to recognize because of

their thin walls and smooth exterior. They are also heavier and have a
rougher surface. Cast solder fittings are available in a greater variety of
 shapes and perform the same functions as do similar fittings in cast iron
because are designated the same way and fit the various pipe sizes.
Figure below shows Copper pressure fittings (may be wrought or cast).

Figure below shows Special copper fittings to connect copper to galvanized

pipe and fittings

JOIN CAST AND DUCTILE IRON

✔ Caulked joint: A type of joint used for cast-iron pipe having

hub-and-spigot ends. After the spigot end of one pipe is placed inside
the hub-end of the other, a rope of oakum or hemp is packed into
 the annular space around the spigot end until the pack in is about 1
inch (2.5 cm) below the top. Then molten lead is poured into the
annular space on top of the rope.
Finally, the lead is pounded farther into the joint with a caulking iron.

Hubbed fittings (shown cutaway, left) were used to join cast iron pipe. Hubbed
pipe has a straight end and a flared end. The straight end of one pipe fits inside
the hub of the next pipe. In the old days, joints were sealed with packing
material (oakum) and lead. Repair leaky joints by cutting out the entire hubbed
fitting and replacing with plastic pipe.

Hubbed fittings
Banded couplings may be used to replace leaky cast iron with a PVC or ABS
plastic pipe. The new plastic pipe is connected to the remaining cast-iron pipe
with a banded coupling. Banded coupling has a neoprene sleeve that seals the
joint. Pipes are held together with stainless steel bands and screw clamps.

Banded couplings
JOIN STEEL PIPES
Methods of joining:
Threaded joint: Threaded joints are detachable joints of two or more component
parts either directly connected with each other or by standardized fasteners, i.e.
bolts, nuts and screws.
Threaded joints are made:
- To keep the component parts of the detachable joint in a desired position,
- To provide the force required to produce a joint and maintain this force
for the intended period., - To transmit motions and forces of component
parts.

Figure: threaded direct joint

⮚ Coupling joint: A coupling is a device used to connect two shafts together at
their ends for the purpose of transmitting power.
The primary purpose of couplings is to join two pieces of rotating equipment while
permitting some degree of misalignment or end movement or both.

Rotating coupling

⮚ Arc Welding: A welding joint is a point or edge where two or more pieces of
metal or plastic are joined together. They are formed by welding two or more
work pieces (metal or plastic) according to a particular geometry. There are five
types of joints referred to by the American Welding Society: butt, corner, edge,
lap, and tee. These configurations may have various configurations at the joint
where actual welding can occur.

Arc welding joint

Joining process

⮚ Prepare the materials and tools.

⮚ Cut threads.

⮚ Apply sealant.

⮚ Fix and tighten the fittings. Don’t over tighten

⮚ Check for leakage

FITTINGS
T fittings
The T, is used to make branches at 90˚angles to the main pipe. When all three
outlets are the same size, the T is specified as that size. For example, a 1 inch
T will connect three 1 inch pipes. When the outlets are not all the same size,
the fitting is called a reducing T. A reducing T is specified by giving the run
(straight through) dimension followed by the side outlet (branch) dimension.
For example, a 3/4 x 1/2 T has 3/4 inch openings on the main and a 1/2 inch
branch outlet, A 1 x 3/4 x 1/2 T has a 1 inch and a 3/4 inch outlet on the
main and a 1/2 inch branch outlet.

Branch lines are connected to main lines with T fittings like these.
Reducing Ts are specified by the size of the opening on the main followed by the
size of the branch opening. T shown is 3/4 x 1/2.
COUPLINGS
Couplings, Fig. 2-23, are short fittings with internal threads at both ends. They
are used to connect lengths of pipe on straight runs. Reducing couplings are
used to connect pipes of different sizes and are specified by the diameter of
each opening. For example, a 1/2 x 3/4 coupling has a 1/2 inch opening at
one end and a 3/4 inch opening at the other end.

Couplings connect two pipes of equal or unequal sizes.

UNIONS
Since all pipes are right-hand threaded, it would be impossible to assemble or
disassemble the last length of threaded pipe without a union. See Fig. 2-24.
A union can be installed or removed from the system without disturbing other fittings.
It consists of three parts:

1. A shoulder with internal threads at one end for attaching to a pipe.

The shoulder is Shaped to mate with the external part.
 2. A collar with internal threads for attaching the other two parts over
their mating surfaces.

3. A piece with external threads for the collar and mating surface for the
shoulder at one end, and internal threads at the other end for attaching to a
pipe.
In some designs, the shoulder and the external threaded piece, have a machined
spherical joint that provides a watertight seal when the collar is securely
tightened.
Dielectric unions are installed when copper and iron pipe are joined. This prevents
galvanic corrosion that may destroy the pipe or fitting.

\
Union fitting
Unions are much alike but may have different shaped joint surfaces. In the
spherical type, the end of one part is shaped like a ball with a hole in it. The
end of the other part is shaped to fit over it and the two are held together
securely by the threaded collar.
NIPPLES
Nipples, are pieces of pipe, 12 inches or less in length threaded on both ends.
They are used to join two fittings that are close together. These should be
purchased because it is difficult to thread short pieces of pipe with
conventional plumbing tools. Do not attempt to make them.
Nipples are specified by diameter and length, Fig. 2-25. A close nipple is
threaded along its entire length. Shoulder nipples have a short portion of
unthreaded pipe. Length of a pipe nipple is determined by measuring from end
to end.

Nipples are short connectors between fittings

Other malleable iron fittings
Pipe plugs, have external threads and are used to close openings in other fittings.
Pipe caps, have internal threads and are used to close the end of a pipe or a pipe
nipple.
A bushing, has external threads on the outside and internal threads inside. It is
used to connect a pipe to a larger size fitting.

Plugs close openings in fittings. Caps

close ends of pipes.
A bushing takes up the difference in diameter when a smaller pipe must be connected
to a larger fitting.
LEARNING OUTCOME 3: DEMONSTRATE BASICS OF SANITARY
APPLIANCES
Sanitary appliances should be designed in order to reduce area to the minimum
and should have durable, easily cleaned and according to the users.
Before starting to design, the design needs to know the following information:
-Types of building: residential or public building
-consumers: number of users of that building
-cost.
Types of appliances
On the drainage we have two types of sanitary appliances:
Soil appliances and waste appliances.
Soil appliance is one type of sanitary appliance which convey human excreta and
human waste. Example of soil appliances: W.C: Water closet and urinals
Waste appliances: is the one type of sanitary appliances which convey the waste
water

● Soil pipes: these are pipes designed to transport soiled water

(Blackwater) from water closet, urinal or bidet.

● Waste pipes: are designed to transport the waste water (grey water)
from sinks, showers, bath, washing machine or dish washer.

3.1. INSTALLATION OF WATER CLOSETS (W.C)

. Water-Closet:
This is a sanitary appliance to receive the human excreta directly and is connected
to the soil pipe by means of a trap.
The water closets are classified as follows:
(A) Squatting type or Indian type:

(i) Long pan pattern

(ii) Orissa pattern

(iii)Rural pattern
The above figure shows the Indian type water closet (B)
Wash-down, Pedestal or European type:
the above figure shows he section through an Indian type water closet
This is manufactured in two different pieces: (a) Squatting pan, and (b) Trap.
The pan is provided with an integral flushing rim of suitable type. The inside of the
bottom of the pan should have sufficient slope towards the outlet for quick
disposal during flushing.
These are made of vitreous chain clay. The inner portion is glazed to make it easy
in cleaning. The pan is connected to the flushing cistern by means of flushing
pipe. The top of the trap is connected to the anti-siphon or vent pipe.
the section through a wash-down type water closet which is most commonly
used in high class buildings. It is provided with a wide flushing rim and 5 cm
trap. It is one-piece construction in which the pan and trap are not separate. It
is provided with an inlet or supply horn for connecting to the flushing pipe.
It may be provided with P and S trap as desired. These types of water closets require
less space than squatting pattern type and can be flushed by low level cistern.
Nowadays siphon water closets are very popular.
Steps of Installing a Water Closet
First we will mention different tools and materials necessary for the installation

➢ Toilet.

➢ Wax ring: if the flange sits even with or without slightly below the floor,
get an extended height wax ring

➢ Closet bolts: self-adjusting closet bolts mean you will not need to cut or
snap the excess bolt length.
 ➢ Toilet connector: flexible braded steel connectors eliminate using a
tubing bender to fit the supply line between the stop valve and tank
fitting.

➢ Adjustable wrench

➢ Screw driver
Steps of installing a water closet.
Step 1: prepare the flange.
Step 2: position the closet bolts.
Step 3: place wax ring
Step 4: set the toilet.
Step 5: add washers and nuts.
Step 6: attach supply line
3.2. INSTALLATION OF BATHTUBS
A bathtub, also known simply as bath or tub, is a container for holding water in
which a person may bathe. It is usually placed in a bathroom, either as a
standalone fixture or in conjunction with a shower. Bathtubs are commonly
white in color, although many other colors can be found.
Bath tubs may be made of various materials, such as enameled iron,
plastic, cast iron, porcelain enameled, marble or fire clay etc. For high class
residential buildings marble, plastic or enameled iron or fiber glass baths are
used. For public places glazed fire-clay or porcelain enameled cast iron baths
are used.
Vitreous enameled pressed steel baths are also available in the market.
Previously copper baths were used but nowadays they have become obsolete. In
future aluminum alloy and fiber glass bath are coming which will replace old
baths.
The bath may be parallel or taper, the latter type being more popular. It is
provided with one outlet of 4 to 8 cm and one inlet pipe for filling it. In some
cases, two taps are provided one for hot and another for cold water supply. The
bath should also be provided with one over-flow pipe to take excessive water.
The waste pipe of bath is provided with a trap, to prevent the foul gases from
entering in the bath room.
Bathtubs are in two common styles:

➢ Western style bathtubs: bathtubs in which the bather lies down. These
baths are typically shallow and long.

➢ Eastern style bathtub: bathtubs in which the bather sits up.

These are known as furo in Japan and are typically short and deep.

The usual dimensions of bath are: length 1.7 to 1.85 m width 70 to 75 cm, depth
near waste pipe side 43 to 45 cm, overall height with feet 58 to 60 cm.
TYPES OF BATHTUBS
• GENERIC BATHTUB: This is usually installed in a house for the
purpose of providing a bath experience to family members and perhaps
may involve the pets, e.g. dog, tortoise, small mammals to enjoy a dip
especially during the hot summer weather. It is usually white in color
with a shower head above and enclosed to allow a sit down or stand up
shower
• SOAKING BATHTUB: A true bathing experience involve a full body
and head immersion into a bath tub full of water. This style of tub would
be deeper than the conventional generic tub so that it could hold more
water. As can be expected there are various sizes, styles and shapes to
choose from.

• WHIRLPOOL AND AIR TUBS: The pinnacle joy of a bath is to enjoy

the warm sensation of pulsating water jet massaging and caressing every
part of the body. This procedure is especially welcomed after a hard day's
work at the office or the need to relax from a long and tedious journey.
The bubbles created by the whirlpool activity, combined with shooting
water from the jets help to create the body massage effect. Installing this
kind of luxury undoubtedly will cost more as several special dedicated
equipment are required and expertly finished.
• CAST IRON TUB: A family with young children should consider a
cast iron bath tub as it is almost indestructible and able to stand up to
much abuse. The cast iron tub is coated with a veneer porcelain enamel
to produce a smooth surface. Cleaning the tub is easily accomplished
using cloth of a soft sponge and rinse it thereafter. A strong foundation
for a cast iron tub is very important as the tubs are heaving and more so
when filled with water.

• Enamel Tub: Several layers of enamel or porcelain are used to coat

a tub originally designed in steel. Since steel tubs are lighter than cast
iron, the installation process is made easier and completed in less time.
The lustre from the enamel shine will always come through if the tub is
properly cleaned and dried after use. The negative side of an enamel
coated tub is that the material is prone to chipping and cracking over a
period of time. Rust becomes visible when steel is exposed.
• ACRYLIC TUB: Acrylic tub surface is a high gloss finish which is
smooth and a great reflector of light. The gloss will retain its shine for
years and is smooth to the touch. Though acrylic is less resistant to
scratch than enamel or porcelain the surface is easily repaired to look
new again. Acrylic is strong and durable. In fact, the US President's
motorcade and the Pope mobile are both protected by acrylic material.
Little wonder whirlpool and Spa manufacturers use acrylic extensively,
not only for its ruggedness and durability but also for the ease of handling
and versatility.

• COMPOSITE TUB: When two or more materials are combined to

create a superior and unique material the outcome is a composite
product. In the quest to produce lightweight material composite materials
a combination of plastic, resin and carbon fibre are used in the
manufacture. The end result is a composite tub weighing less than half
the weight of a cast iron tub. As such it is ideal for high rise apartment
bathroom. For aesthetic appearance, the finished surface is smooth and
glossy and covered with enamel. Again like all tubs, to maintain its shine
and smooth surface and to avoid cracks or chips careful maintenance and
cleaning cannot be ignored.
 • Fiberglass: The fiberglass tub has a layer of smooth and shinning
material called
'gelcoat' that lays on top the fiberglass. Another layer of reinforced polyester
material lies beneath he fiberglass to give it strength. Compared to acrylic or
enamel Gelcoat material is relatively light, thus making it easy to work with
and maneuver in a tight space. For its weight, it is durable, strong and flexible.
If properly maintained and cleaned gelcoat fiberglass tubs should keep its color
and shine for years. Since gelcoat is more porous that acrylic water may seep
through and shown stain if the tub is not properly maintained and looked
after.

• CULTURED SOLID-SURFACE TUB: To achieve a cultured

solidsurface tub, real stone chunks and pieces are assembled under a
crushing machine to which is added liquid polyester resin for strength
and durability. Cultured solid-surface tubs has similar qualities to quartz,
a hard white or colorless mineral found in certain rocks. In order to
produce a smooth and strong surface a gelcoat is added on top.
 • SPECIALTY WOOD & GLASS TUBS: Wood tubs come in various
shapes, round, oval and oblong, the last being shape being more
common. The preferred wood is Western Cedar because of its wood grain
beauty and durability. A wood tub holds warm water longer than other
types of material, e.g. enamel, acrylic and marble. The tub must be
partially filled with water at all times to prevent wrapping or shrinking of
the wood as it would lead to water leakage.
• The Japanese are fond of wood tubs as they believe the soul is
cleansed and the body purified after a bath.

Factors affecting the selection of bathtub

There are many types of bathtubs to fit many types of bathrooms. So before choosing
one, consider your needs and your home’s specifications.
• Space: A typical bathroom with an alcove bath and shower combo
probably isn’t big enough for a garden tub and a steam shower — unless
you plan to knock down some walls.
• water heater’s capacity: Whirlpool and soaking tubs take more
water to fill. If your water heater can’t handle the demand, are you
prepared to replace it?
• floor’s capacity: A porcelain-enameled cast iron or a whirlpool tub is
much heavier than a simple acrylic tub. If your floor can’t support the
weight, can you reinforce it?
 • Way of use: If your kids are the only ones who will use it, a whirlpool
or a deep tub may not be worth the extra cost. If you enjoy soaking with a
book after raking leaves or shoveling snow, you may want more than a
simple tub and shower combo.
Steps of Installing a Bathtub
Step 1: bath tub selection
Step 2: fitting the tub and installing the drain step
3: securing the tub and surround
3.3. INSTALLATION OF SINKS
A sink also known by other names including sinker, washbowl or basin, is a
bowl- shaped plumbing fixture for washing hands or dishwashing and other
purposes. Sinks have a tap (faucet) that supply hot or cold water and may
include a spray feature to be used for faster rinsing. They also have a drain to
remove used water.
Types of Sinks
Kitchen sinks can be broadly categorized under four mains section
Choosing a kitchen sink is a major part of kitchen renovation. From traditional
top-mount sinks to newer, trendier units like the low divider sink, consider
which type of sink suits your kitchen and your personality the best.
Classification Classification Classification Classification
based on based on shape based on models, based on
materials used design and positioning
purpose

Stainless steel Rectangular Single bowl Under-mount

kitchen sink kitchen sink kitchen sink kitchen sink

Composite kitchen Oval kitchen sink Double bowl Farmhouse

sink kitchen sink kitchen sink

Copper kitchen Square kitchen Sink with drain Wall mount

sink sink board kitchen sink

Ceramic kitchen Round kitchen Triple bowl Top mount

sink sink kitchen sink kitchen sink
 Granite kitchen Corner kitchen
sink, etc. sink

1. Top-Mount, Drop-In, or Self-Rimming Sink

The most common type of kitchen sink, the top-mount or drop-in, installs from
above. Based on a template provided by the sink manufacturer, a hole is cut
into the counter material and the sink is inserted from above. All of the sink's
weight is carried by the rim. Then the rim of the sink is caulked to the counter
with silicone. Because the sink edge creates a rim, these sinks are sometimes
called rimmed or self-rimming sinks.
Pros
• No special skills are needed for installation.
• But most do-it-yourselfers can make sink cut-outs in laminate and even
solid surface materials.
• Overall cost is relatively low.
Cons
• The sink's rim prevents you from sweeping water and debris from the
counter straight into the sink.
• The rim adds yet another part of the sink that needs to be cleaned.
• Some homeowners dislike the look of separation between sink and rim.

2. Under-mount Sink: Under-mount sinks are the opposite of top-mount sinks,

as the sink is attached to the bottom of the counter with special clips.
Pros
• Under-mount sinks allow you to sweep countertop water and crumbs
straight into the sink with a sponge. These sinks have no rim to get in
the way, making clean up a charm.
• Smoother look is attractive to many homeowners.
• Under-mount sinks are often of higher quality than over mount sinks.
Cons
• Though gunk does not build up on top, it will collect under the counter,
where the sink and counter meet.
• Under-mount sinks are usually more expensive to buy and install than
over-mount sinks.
• Under-mounting may limit the size of your sink.
3. Double Basin/Bowl Sink
The most popular type of kitchen sink arrangement, dual basins allow for
washing on one side and rinsing or drying on the other side. Truly multipurpose
and highly flexible, double basin sinks have all sink operations covered:
washing, rinsing, and draining. It is hard to go wrong with a good double basin
sink.
Pros

• Multi-purpose and highly flexible.

• Useful in households without dishwashers.
Cons
• Either side can be too small to accommodate large pots, baking pans,
or casseroles.
• Some homeowners dislike the utilitarian appearance of a double sink.
• Contemporary trends favor single-basin sinks.
4. Single Basin/Bowl Sink
Single basin is a general category of kitchen sinks, which can include both farmhouse
(apron) sinks and in-counter sinks. This type of sink has no divided basin.
Pros
• The single basin is large enough to wash big items such as casseroles
and cookie sheets.
• Single basins are ideal for large capacity houses with many people and
busy cooking operations.
• If you like the look of an apron sink, you're best off with a single
basin.
Cons
• Be prepared to have a drying area on the side of the sink, as single
basin sinks have no room for this.
• Single basins are less popular due to their inflexibility and small size.
5. Farmhouse or Apron Sink
Farmhouse, or apron, sinks are large single basin sinks distinguished by their
front wall, which forms both the front of the sink and the front of the counter.
The most popular type of installation is with the sink level and integrated in
the counters. However, apron sinks are sometimes installed "country style": on
top of a cabinet or on a freestanding table (fixed against the wall) and not
surrounded by counters.
Pros
• These generously sized sinks make it easier to wash big casserole and
baking pans.
• Because there is less room between the sink and the edge of the
counter, the person using the sink can move in a little bit closer to
the sink, avoiding fatigue.
• Many people love the "farmhouse" look of an apron sink.
Cons
• Apron sinks are prone to dripping, as there is only a narrow barrier
between the sink and the floor.
• Can be very expensive compared to other sink styles.
6. Drain board Sink: combine a small basin on one side with a counter-level drain
board on the other side.
Pros
• These smaller types of sinks are great in galley kitchens or any limited
space.
• Because the drain board portion has a lip around it, it traps water
and quickly drains it back to the sink.
Cons
• Basins tend to be small in drain board sinks. So if you love to cook
and entertain lots of people, this sink may not be for you.
• If you rarely wash dishes by hand, you'll have little use for the drain
board

7. Low Divider Double Basin Sink

A low divider kitchen sink is a double basin sink, but instead of the divider rising
to the level of the top of the sink, it stops partway up.
Pros
• Low divider sinks are a perfect combination of single basin and double
basin sinks. When you fill one side low with water, it works as a double
basin sink. But if you need extra room for big pans, simply keep filling
higher so that the water overflows the divider.
• Most people find the low divider sink easier to use for food prep.
Cons
• Since not many manufacturers offer low divider sinks, prices tend
to be higher than for other types, such as single basin, double basin, and
even farmhouse sinks.
• While in theory, it can double for a single basin sink, the low divider
sink has less room for large items such as casseroles or broiler pans.
8. Integrated Sink
Integrated (or integral) sinks are produced by solid surface countertop
manufacturers, such as DuPont for its Corian line and Samsung for its Staron
line. Integrated sinks are made of the same material as the counter and are
fused in place at the fabricator's shop.
Pros
• With integrated sinks, the obtrusive rim is eliminated. The counter flows
seamlessly into the sink.
• Integrated sinks eliminate the under counter seam (prone to collecting
debris and mold) found on under mount sinks.
• Many homeowners love the look of integrated sinks.
Cons
• Integrated sinks, common in bathrooms, are more difficult to find in
the kitchen realm.
• These are custom order items and, as a result, are rather expensive.
• If the sink is damaged, it cannot simply be removed and replaced:
it must be repaired.

9. Corner Sink: A kitchen corner sink has double basins which are set at right angles
to each other.
Pros
• Some corner sinks are spaced wide enough to have a built-in
drying area in the center section.
• Corner sinks cleverly make use of notorious space-wasters: counter
corners.
Cons
• Corner sinks are rarely needed and are thus hard to find.
• When you can find them, corner sinks are expensive.
• Also, these sinks require custom cuts in the counters. Since most kitchen
counters are seamed at the corners, these sinks are forced to bridge this
seam, reducing the structural strength of the countertop in that area.
• What is the purpose of a double basin sink?
The primary purpose of a double basin sink is to simplify the dishwashing process.
Typically, one basin is used for soapy water and dirty dishes, and the other is used
for clean water.
Operational Steps

1. Mark the position for the sink brackets.

2. Drill a hole of the correct diameter and depths using a suitable masonry drill to
receive plastic plug or ribbed plug.

3. Insert the plug into the wall.

4. Screw home the bracket until tight.

5. Place the sink on the bracket.

6. Connect the hot and cold water supply pipe.

7. Connect the waste outlets.

8. In case of the stainless steel sink the timber drawer and the cupboard unit
should be constructed.

9. Place the stainless steel sink on the cupboard unit/timber drawer. 10. Connect
the hot and cold water taps
11. Connect the waste outlets
INSTALLATION OF RAIN WATER HARVESTING
Rainwater harvesting is the simple process or technology used to conserve
Rainwater by collecting, storing, conveying and purifying of Rainwater that
runs off from rooftops, parks, roads, open grounds, etc. for later use.
Rainwater pipe: known as downspout used for conveying rain water from a roof
of building or gutter to the ground or storage tank
Eave gutter is a shallow channel of metal or wood set immediately below and along
the eaves of a building to catch and carry off rainwater from the roof.
ADVANTAGES OF RAINWATER HARVESTING:

1. Recharge to groundwater and built up in ground water levels.

2. Rejuvenation of dried up wells.

3. Reduce floods and soil erosion.

4. Improvement in the quality of ground water through dilution.

5. Helps in reducing inundation of roads and flood hazards.

6. Save future generations from water scarcity problem.

STEPS OF RAIN WATER HARVESTING INSTALLATION

Step 1: determine the rain water potential
The rain water harvesting potential is the amount of rain water which could be
collected in the given area. It is calculated as the surface area you have
available to collect Rain water multiplied by annual precipitation.
The surface that receives rainfall directly is called “catchment” of the rain water
harvesting system. It may be a terrace, court yard, paved or unpaved open
ground. Therefore, the catchment is the area, which contributes rain water to
the harvesting system.
For example: let us say the catchment area is 100m2 and the area receives an
average of 1000mm of rainfall per year then, the harvesting potential will be
100 m3.
Step 2: determining the layout
The layout and the location of the tank, pipelines are determined in such a way
that as to maximize the use of collection surfaces. There are several options
but the major one are:
a) spread out tank

b) cluster tank option

Step 3: setting up the storage

The rain water collected from the roof of building is diverted to a storage tank. The
storage tank has to be designed according to water requirements, rainfall, and
catchment availability.
Step 4: decide on the features in the system
Step 5: installing the pipes and tank
For installing pipes:

1. seek the necessary permissions (if required) from authorities to lay pipes.

2. dig trenches if laid under-ground.

3. it is preferable to have pipes as single falls to avoid sediment collecting in

places that cannot be easily reached for cleaning.

4. lay the pipes in trenches of otherwise and connect using connectors.

For installing tanks:
1.make a tank stand suitable to the property.
2. put the tank on the stand and ensure that they will not blow away when empty.
3.connect them up so they can behave as one volume. Recommend putting a valve
for each tank mostly for maintenance.
4.conncect overflow arrangements. when overflow is undersized, pumps may flood.

5. make the final connections between the PVC collector pipes and tank.

6. install a tank gauge to regularly monitor your water level and usage.

(more rain water harvest notes)