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An Artistic Card Tray
Serving and card trays can be made very beautiful and artistic with
the use of butterflies, natural grasses, and the fluffy part taken from
the milkweed pod, formed to make a natural scene beneath the
glass bottom of the tray. If an old tray is to be used, remove the old
panel, or painting, beneath the glass bottom, and clean the glass
thoroughly. Lay it upside down on a flat table top and carefully place
on it a cluster of grass, or weeds, or some botanical specimens, that
are well dried. Arrange the dried butterflies in a natural way around
the grasses with their backs, or tops of the wings, facing out, or on
the glass.
The silky down of the milkweed seed, with the seed removed, is
used to cover the specimens and grass, which forms the most
delicate background possible. It is laid on quite thick at the bottom of
the scene, gradually thinning it toward the top. Be careful to see that
the fibers of the down are placed so that they will radiate from the
bottom of the grasses to the outer edges. A piece of white, pearl, or
gray cardboard is then placed on this background, and another glass
or board back is sealed tightly over the whole with glue or wax.—
Contributed by Joe V. Romig, Allentown, Pa.
Deodorizing Lard Buckets
Lard buckets are the most easily obtained and the most
satisfactory of utensils in which to pack food, or cook for a small
picnic or camping party, but it is very difficult to remove the odor of
the lard. This may be easily accomplished by boiling the grounds
from the coffeepot in the bucket with about one pint of water.
A Parlor Cue Alley
By C. QUINCY IVES
To build this alley, first procure three planed boards, hard wood
preferred, though they are more difficult to work; two, 10 ft. long, 9 in.
wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and the other, 10 ft. long, 15 in. wide, and ¹⁄₂
in. thick. Place the first two boards side by side and fasten them with
cleats, the first cleat being placed 18 in. from the end to be used for
the pins. The cleats should be of ³⁄₈ or ⁷⁄₈-in. material and cut as long
as the upper board is wide, or 15 in. These are placed on top of the
lower boards, or between the two. By placing the first one 18 in. from
the end, clearance is obtained for the trap A. The other board is
placed on the cleats and fastened, after it has been centrally located,
with screws from the under side. The screws must not come through
or the surface of the upper board be marred in any way so that the
balls cannot roll freely. The difference in width of the lower board and
the upper one provides 1¹⁄₂-in. clearance on each side as grooves
for the return of the balls.
Inclose the alley with boards, 3 in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, to the
point B, and from there around the pin end with boards, 6 in. wide.
The upper board should be cut to such a length that a space of 2 in.
at the end C will be provided. Into this space is fitted a block of
wood, about ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, having its upper surface slightly pitched
toward the sides of the alley to start the balls back to the front of the
board. From the ends of this block two strips, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, are fitted
into the side grooves, from D to E, on an incline, to return the ball
after each shot.
The location of each pin is marked on the end of the upper board,
and small holes are drilled just large enough to admit pieces of stout
cord, like a fishline, to pass through freely. The pins are made of
hard wood, carefully balanced, so that one end will not be heavier
than the other. The lower end of each pin is drilled to make a recess,
F, in which the cord is fastened with a screw or nail. Holes are bored
through the bottom board, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter, to correspond to the 10
small holes made through the upper one. Lead weights of about 2
oz. are fitted in the holes and attached to the strings from the pins.
The ends of the weights should extend about ¹⁄₂ in. from the under
side of the alley.
Attach a board, 18 in. square, with hinges to the end of the alley
so that it will hang under the weights. A stout cord is run along the
under side of the alley to the front end through screw eyes, and
attached to the swinging board. By letting the board swing down the
weights are released and they draw the pins into a standing position,
accurately set for the next break. When set, the line is drawn, and
the swinging board pushes the weights up and releases the pins.
The balls used are made of hard wood, and, if it is not desirable to
make them, they can be purchased from a toy store. They are 1¹⁄₄ in.
in diameter. Each player has three shots. The ball is placed on the
spot G and shot with a billiard cue, the object being to knock down
as many pins as possible; the score is kept as in bowling.
Horses can be made of metal and wood, as shown, for holding the
alley at the proper height. The alley can be used on a large table, but
horses are more convenient.
The Glass-and-Hat Trick
The effect of this trick is as follows: The performer first exhibits a
small table, about 2 ft. square, the top of which is covered with black
velvet. He requests the loan of a Derby hat and a handkerchief, then
takes an ordinary glass, filled with water, and places it on the table
top, covers it with the handkerchief, and sets the hat on top of the
glass. He then withdraws a short distance, and at a command, the
glass appears to pass slowly through both handkerchief and hat until
the hat rests on the table top. The hat is then taken up and is handed
to the owner, who finds the glass of water in the hat.
While this is seemingly impossible, the effect can be easily
accomplished and the necessary apparatus can be made up cheaply
if a table of suitable size can be had, although a kitchen table may
be used if so desired, but a table about 2 ft. square is preferred,
because it can be easily carried. The table is prepared as follows:
Procure a block of wood, about 2 in. square and 1¹⁄₂ in. thick, and
glue it to the under side of the table in the center. Bore a ¹⁄₄-in. hole
through both the table top and the block of wood. The top of the
table must be covered with some black cloth, such as velvet. Using
the hole bored as a center, cut out a piece of the table top to
correspond with the diameter of the glass to be used, and about ¹⁄₈
in. deep, fit into this depression a piece of round sheet brass.
Procure a ¹⁄₄-in. rod, about 6 in. long, and fasten the brass disk to the
end of it so that the disk will fit into the round depression when the
rod is run through the hole in the table top and block. The other, or
lower, end of the rod is filed flat, and a small hole is drilled through it,
the edges being smoothed to receive a thread. The top of the brass
disk is covered with the same material as is used for covering the
table top. This will make it appear to be one piece covering the table
top. Fasten a strong black thread to one corner of the table top on
the under side, and run it through the hole drilled through the end of
the rod, then over a small window-curtain roller fastened into the
opposite corner of the table top, where the thread is run down a table
leg and through another pulley out under a rug or the floor to an
assistant where the thread will not be seen. The metal disk can then
be controlled without any apparent power. If the rod extends under
the table too far, tape some velvet or fancy cloth around the table
edge to cover it.
Apparently the Glass Filled with Water Passes Up through the Crown of the
Hat and is Taken from it When the Trick is Completed
To begin the trick, the performer exhibits the glass of water, then
sets it on the table just back of the disk, and in placing the borrowed
handkerchief it is put on the disk rather than the glass. As the
handkerchief is held in front of the glass the assistant pulls the disk
up; thus the handkerchief is placed on the disk and the glass of
water is left uncovered just behind it. The performer then starts to put
the borrowed hat on the glass, crown up, and when, seeing his
mistake, he apologizes, turns the hat over, and in doing so picks up
the glass of water and places it in the hat. The hat is then set on the
disk with the crown down. In turning the hat the glass is taken up
with the first two fingers of the right hand. When the hat is raised, the
glass is also raised with it, and while doing this the hat is slanted so
as to hide the glass. In turning the hat over, the glass is brought into
it. This is quite hard to explain, but a little practice will enable the
performer to make no mistake. When the hat is placed on the disk
the assistant slowly lets the disk down. It is very necessary to let the
hat down slowly, as a sudden jerk is apt to tumble the hat over and
spoil it as well as the trick. When the hat comes to rest on the table
top, it is removed and handed to the owner with the glass of water in
it.
Wire-Mesh Support for Flower Centerpiece
Open the Front Door and Top of the Cabinet and It will Appear Empty
By careful construction the cabinet can be made so that the doors
will open freely and the triangular box swing easily so that it will not
be seen in operating it. With a clever performer this trick is without
an equal, as many variations can be made in the performance.
Countersinking a Hole Smoothly
When a hole in a piece of steel, iron, or brass is being
countersunk, the drill usually chatters, making the countersink rough.
Where a smooth hole is required, it is best to make the countersink
first and drill the hole afterward. By doing so the hole will be perfectly
smooth.—Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.
Receptacle for Shellac Varnish