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I was glad when a diversion was effected by the arrival of Mr. Fox,
Assistant-Secretary of the Navy, and Mr. Blair, Postmaster-General,
to consult with the Captain, who is greatly looked up to by all the
members of the Cabinet—in fact he is rather inconvenienced by the
perpetual visits of the President, who is animated by a most
extraordinary curiosity about naval matters and machinery, and is
attracted by the novelty of the whole department, so that he is
continually running down “to have a talk with Dahlgren” when he is
not engaged in “a chat with George.” The Senator opened such a
smart fire on the Minister that the latter retired, and I mounted and
rode back to town. In the evening Major Clarence Brown, Lieutenant
Wise, a lively, pleasant, and amusing little sailor, well-known in the
States as the author of “Los Gringos,” who is now employed in the
Navy Department, and a few of the gentlemen connected with the
Foreign Legations came in, and we had a great international reunion
and discussion till a late hour. There is a good deal of agreeable
banter reserved for myself, as to the exact form of death which I am
most likely to meet. I was seriously advised by a friend not to stir out
unarmed. The great use of a revolver is that it will prevent the
indignity of tarring and feathering, now pretty rife, by provoking
greater violence. I also received a letter from London, advising me to
apply to Lord Lyons for protection, but that could only be extended to
me within the walls of the Legation.
August 25th.—I visited the Navy Department, which is a small red-
brick building two storeys high, very plain and even humble. The
subordinate departments are conducted in rooms below stairs. The
executive are lodged in the rooms which line both sides of the
corridor above. The walls of the passage are lined with paintings in
oil and water colours, engravings and paintings in the worst style of
art. To the latter considerable interest attaches, as they are authentic
likenesses of naval officers who gained celebrity in the wars with
Great Britain—men like Perry, M‘Donough, Decatur, and Hull, who,
as the Americans boast, was “the first man who compelled a British
frigate of greater force than his own to strike her colours in fair fight.”
Paul Jones was not to be seen, but a drawing is proudly pointed to of
the attack of the American fleet on Algiers as a proof of hatred to
piracy, and of the prominent part taken by the young States in putting
an end to it in Europe. In one room are several swords, surrendered
by English officers in the single frigate engagements, and the
duplicates of medals, in gold and silver, voted by Congress to the
victors. In Lieutenant Wise’s room, there are models of the
projectiles, and a series of shot and shell used in the navy, or
deposited by inventors. Among other relics was the flag of Captain
Ward’s boat just brought in which was completely riddled by the
bullet marks received in the ambuscade in which that officer was
killed, with nearly all of his boat’s crew, as they incautiously
approached the shore of the Potomac, to take off a small craft
placed there to decoy them by the Confederates. My business was
to pave the way for a passage on board a steamer, in case of any
naval expedition starting before the army was ready to move, but all
difficulties were at once removed by the promptitude and courtesy of
Mr. Fox, the Assistant-Secretary, who promised to give me an order
for a passage whenever I required it. The extreme civility and
readiness to oblige of all American officials, high and low, from the
gate-keepers and door porters up to the heads of departments,
cannot be too highly praised, and it is ungenerous to accept the
explanation offered by an English officer to whom I remarked the
circumstance, that it is due to the fact that each man is liable to be
turned out at the end of four years, and therefore makes all the
friends he can.
In the afternoon I rode out with Captain Johnson, through some
charming woodland scenery on the outskirts of Washington, by a
brawling stream, in a shady little ravine, that put me in mind of the
Dargle. Our ride led us into the camps, formed on the west of
Georgetown, to cover the city from the attacks of an enemy
advancing along the left bank of the Potomac, and in support of
several strong forts and earthworks placed on the heights. One
regiment consists altogether of Frenchmen—another is of Germans
—in a third I saw an officer with a Crimean and Indian medal on his
breast, and several privates with similar decorations. Some of the
regiments were on parade, and crowds of civilians from Washington
were enjoying the novel scene, and partaking of the hospitality of
their friends. One old lady, whom I have always seen about the
camps, and who is a sort of ancient heroine of Saragossa, had an
opportunity of being useful. The 15th Massachusetts, a fine-looking
body of men, had broken up camp, and were marching off to the
sound of their own voices chanting “Old John Brown,” when one of
the enormous trains of baggage waggons attached to them was
carried off by the frightened mules, which probably had belonged to
Virginian farmers, and one of the soldiers, in trying to stop it, was
dashed to the ground and severely injured. The old lady was by his
side in a moment, and out came her flask of strong waters,
bandages, and medical comforts and apparatus. “It’s well I’m here
for this poor Union soldier; I’m sure I always have something to do in
these camps.” On my return late, there was a letter on my table
requesting me to visit General M‘Clellan, but it was then too far
advanced to avail myself of the invitation, which was only delivered
after I left my lodgings.
CHAPTER XVIII.