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BLACK CURRANT JAM AND MARMALADE.
No fruit jellies so easily as black currants when they are ripe; and
their juice is so rich and thick that it will bear the addition of a very
small quantity of water sometimes, without causing the preserve to
mould. When the currants have been very dusty, we have
occasionally had them washed and drained before they were used,
without any injurious effects. Jam boiled down in the usual manner
with this fruit is often very dry. It may be greatly improved by taking
out nearly half the currants when it is ready to be potted, pressing
them well against the side of the preserving-pan to extract the juice:
this leaves the remainder far more liquid and refreshing than when
the skins are all retained. Another mode of making fine black currant
jam—as well as that of any other fruit—is to add one pound at least
of juice, extracted as for jelly, to two pounds of the berries, and to
allow sugar for it in the same proportion as directed for each pound
of them.
For marmalade or paste, which is most useful in affections of the
throat and chest, the currants must be stewed tender in their own
juice, and then rubbed through a sieve. After ten minutes’ boiling,
sugar in fine powder must be stirred gradually to the pulp, off the fire,
until it is dissolved: a few minutes more of boiling will then suffice to
render the preserve thick, and it will become quite firm when cold.
More or less sugar can be added to the taste, but it is not generally
liked very sweet.
Best black currant jam.—Currants, 4 lbs.; juice of currants, 2 lbs.:
15 to 20 minutes’ gentle boiling. Sugar, 3 to 4 lbs.: 10 minutes.
Marmalade, or paste of black currants.—Fruit, 4 lbs.: stewed in its
own juice 15 minutes, or until quite soft. Pulp boiled 10 minutes.
Sugar, from 7 to 9 oz. to the lb.: 10 to 14 minutes.
Obs.—The following are the receipts originally inserted in this
work, and which we leave unaltered.
To six pounds of the fruit, stripped carefully from the stalks, add
four pounds and a half of sugar. Let them heat gently, but as soon as
the sugar is dissolved boil the preserve rapidly for fifteen minutes. A
more common kind of jam may be made by boiling the fruit by itself
from ten to fifteen minutes, and for ten minutes after half its weight of
sugar has been added to it.
Black currants, 6 lbs.; sugar, 4-1/2 lbs.: 15 minutes. Or: fruit, 6 lbs.:
10 to 15 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 10 minutes.
Obs.—There are few preparations of fruit so refreshing and so
useful in illness as those of black currants, and it is therefore
advisable always to have a store of them, and to have them well and
carefully made.
NURSERY PRESERVE.
(A New Receipt.)
The market-price of our English pines is generally too high to
permit their being very commonly used for preserve; and though
some of those imported from the West Indies are sufficiently well-
flavoured to make excellent jam, they must be selected with
judgment for the purpose, or they will possibly not answer for it. They
should be fully ripe, but perfectly sound: should the stalk end appear
mouldy or discoloured, the fruit should be rejected. The degree of
flavour which it possesses may be ascertained with tolerable
accuracy by its odour; for if of good quality, and fit for use, it will be
very fragrant. After the rinds have been pared off, and every dark
speck taken from the flesh, the pines may be rasped on a fine and
delicately clean grater, or sliced thin, cut up quickly into dice, and
pounded in a stone or marble mortar; or a portion may be grated,
and the remainder reduced to pulp in the mortar. Weigh, and then
heat and boil it gently for ten minutes; draw it from the fire, and stir to
it by degrees fourteen ounces of sugar to the pound of fruit; boil it
until it thickens and becomes very transparent, which it will be in
about fifteen minutes, should the quantity be small: it will require a
rather longer time if it be large. The sugar ought to be of the best
quality and beaten quite to powder; and for this, as well as for every
other kind of preserve, it should be dry. A remarkably fine
marmalade may be compounded of English pines only, or even with
one English pine of superior growth, and two or three of the West
Indian mixed with it; but all when used should be fully ripe, without at
all verging on decay; for in no other state will their delicious flavour
be in its perfection.
In making the jam always avoid placing the preserving-pan flat
upon the fire, as this of itself will often convert what would otherwise
be excellent preserve, into a strange sort of compound, for which it is
difficult to find a name, and which results from the sugar being
subjected—when in combination with the acid of the fruit—to a
degree of heat which converts it into caramel or highly-boiled barley-
sugar. When there is no regular preserving-stove, a flat trivet should
be securely placed across the fire of the kitchen-range to raise the
pan from immediate contact with the burning coals, or charcoal. It is
better to grate down, than to pound the fruit for the present receipt
should any parts of it be ever so slightly tough; and it should then be
slowly stewed until quite tender before any sugar is added to it; or
with only a very small quantity stirred in should it become too dry. A
superior marmalade even to this, might probably be made by adding
to the rasped pines a little juice drawn by a gentle heat, or expressed
cold, from inferior portions of the fruit; but this is only supposition.
A FINE PRESERVE OF THE GREEN ORANGE PLUM.
When the plums are thoroughly ripe, take off the skins, stone,
weigh, and boil them quickly without sugar for fifty minutes, keeping
them well stirred; then to every four pounds add three of good sugar
reduced quite to powder, boil the preserve from five to eight minutes
longer, and clear off the scum perfectly before it is poured into the
jars. When the flesh of the fruit will not separate easily from the
stones, weigh and throw the plums whole into the preserving-pan,
boil them to a pulp, pass them through a sieve, and deduct the
weight of the stones from them when apportioning the sugar to the
jam. The Orleans plum may be substituted for greengages in this
receipt.
Greengages, stoned and skinned, 6 lbs.: 50 minutes. Sugar, 4-1/2
lbs.: 5 to 8 minutes.
PRESERVE OF THE MAGNUM BONUM, OR MOGUL PLUM.
Prepare, weigh, and boil the plums for forty minutes; stir to them
half their weight of good sugar beaten fine, and when it is dissolved
continue the boiling for ten additional minutes, and skim the preserve
carefully during the time. This is an excellent marmalade, but it may
be rendered richer by increasing the proportion of sugar. The
blanched kernels of a portion of the fruit stones will much improve its
flavour, but they should be mixed with it only two or three minutes
before it is taken from the fire. When the plums are not entirely ripe,
it is difficult to free them from the stones and skins: they should then
be boiled down and pressed through a sieve, as directed for
greengages, in the receipt above.
Mogul plums, skinned and stoned, 6 lbs.: 40 minutes. Sugar, 3
lbs.: 5 to 8 minutes.
TO DRY OR PRESERVE MOGUL PLUMS IN SYRUP.
Pare the plums, but do not remove the stalks or stones; take their
weight of dry sifted sugar, lay them into a deep dish or bowl, and
strew it over them; let them remain thus for a night, then pour them
gently into a preserving-pan with all the sugar, heat them slowly, and
let them just simmer for five minutes; in two days repeat the process,
and do so again and again at an interval of two or three days, until
the fruit is tender and very clear; put it then into jars, and keep it in
the syrup, or drain and dry the plums very gradually, as directed for
other fruit. When they are not sufficiently ripe for the skin to part from
them readily, they must be covered with spring water, placed over a
slow fire, and just scalded until it can be stripped from them easily.
They may also be entirely prepared by the receipt for dried apricots
which follows, a page or two from this.
MUSSEL PLUM CHEESE AND JELLY.
Fill large stone jars with the fruit, which should be ripe, dry, and
sound; set them into an oven from which the bread has been drawn
several hours, and let them remain all night; or, if this cannot
conveniently be done, place them in pans of water, and boil them
gently until the plums are tender, and have yielded their juice to the
utmost. Pour this from them, strain it through a jelly bag, weigh, and
then boil it rapidly for twenty-five minutes. Have ready, broken small,
three pounds of sugar for four of the juice, stir them together until it is
dissolved, and then continue the boiling quickly for ten minutes
longer, and be careful to remove all the scum. Pour the preserve into
small moulds or pans, and turn it out when it is wanted for table: it
will be very fine, both in colour and in flavour.
Juice of plums, 4 lbs.: 25 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 10 minutes.
The cheese.—Skin and stone the plums from which the juice has
been poured, and after having weighed, boil them an hour and a
quarter over a brisk fire, and stir them constantly; then to three
pounds of fruit add one of sugar, beaten to powder; boil the preserve
for another half hour, and press it into shallow pans or moulds.
Plums, 3 lbs.: 1-1/4 hour. Sugar, 1 lb.: 30 minutes.
APRICOT MARMALADE.
(French Receipt.)
Take apricots which have attained their full growth and colour, but
before they begin to soften; weigh, and wipe them lightly; make a
small incision across the top of each plum, pass the point of a knife
through the stalk end, and gently push out the stones without
breaking the fruit; next, put the apricots into a preserving-pan, with
sufficient cold water to float them easily; place it over a moderate
fire, and when it begins to boil, should the apricots be quite tender,
lift them out and throw them into more cold water, but simmer them,
otherwise, until they are so. Take the same weight of sugar that there
was of the fruit before it was stoned, and boil it for ten minutes with a
quart of water to the four pounds; skim the syrup carefully, throw in
the apricots (which should previously be well drained on a soft cloth,
or on a sieve), simmer them for one minute, and set them by in it
until the following day, then drain it from them, boil it for ten minutes,
and pour it on them the instant it is taken from the fire; in forty-eight
hours repeat the process, and when the syrup has boiled ten
minutes, put in the apricots, and simmer them from two to four
minutes, or until they look quite clear. They may be stored in the
syrup until wanted for drying, or drained from it, laid separately on
slates or dishes, and dried very gradually: the blanched kernels may
be put inside the fruit, or added to the syrup.
Apricots, 4 lbs., scalded until tender; sugar 4 lbs.; water, 1 quart:
10 minutes. Apricots, in syrup, 1 minute; left 24 hours. Syrup, boiled
again, 10 minutes, and poured on fruit: stand 2 days. Syrup, boiled
again, 10 minutes, and apricots 2 to 4 minutes, or until clear.
Obs.—The syrup should be quite thick when the apricots are put in
for the last time; but both fruit and sugar vary so much in quality and
in the degree of boiling which they require, that no invariable rule can
be given for the latter. The apricot syrup strained very clear, and
mixed with twice its measure of pale French brandy, makes an
agreeable liqueur, which is much improved by infusing in it for a few
days half an ounce of the fruit-kernels, blanched and bruised, to the
quart of liquor.
We have found that cherries prepared by either of the receipts
which we have given for preserving them with sugar, if thrown into
the apricot syrup when partially dried, just scalded in it, and left for a
fortnight, then drained and dried as usual, become a delicious
sweetmeat. Mussel, imperatrice, or any other plums, when quite ripe,
if simmered in it very gently until they are tender, and left for a few
days to imbibe its flavour, then drained and finished as usual, are
likewise excellent.
PEACH JAM, OR MARMALADE.
The fruit for this preserve, which is a very delicious one, should be
finely flavoured, and quite ripe, though perfectly sound. Pare, stone,
weigh, and boil it quickly for three-quarters of an hour, and do not fail
to stir it often during the time; draw it from the fire, and mix with it ten
ounces of well-refined sugar, rolled or beaten to powder, for each
pound of the peaches; clear it carefully from scum, and boil it briskly
for five minutes; throw in the strained juice of one or two good
lemons; continue the boiling for three minutes only, and pour out the
marmalade. Two minutes after the sugar is stirred to the fruit, add
the blanched kernels of part of the peaches.
Peaches, stoned and pared, 4 lbs.; 3/4 hour. Sugar, 2-1/2 lbs.: 2
minutes. Blanched peach-kernels: 3 minutes. Juice of 2 small
lemons: 3 minutes.
Obs.—This jam, like most others, is improved by pressing the fruit
through a sieve after it has been partially boiled. Nothing can be finer
than its flavour, which would be injured by adding the sugar at first;
and a larger proportion renders it cloyingly sweet. Nectarines and
peaches mixed, make an admirable preserve.
TO PRESERVE, OR TO DRY PEACHES OR NECTARINES.
The fruit for this jam should be freshly gathered and quite ripe.
Split, stone, weigh, and boil it quickly for forty minutes; then stir in
half its weight of good sugar roughly powdered, and when it is
dissolved, give the preserve fifteen minutes additional boiling,
keeping it stirred, and thoroughly skimmed.
Damsons, stoned, 6 lbs.: 40 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 15 minutes.
Obs.—A more refined preserve is made by pressing the fruit
through a sieve after it is boiled tender; but the jam is excellent
without.