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The Art of Anatheism (Reframing

Continental Philosophy of Religion) 1st


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BLACK CURRANT JAM AND MARMALADE.

No fruit jellies so easily as black currants when they are ripe; and
their juice is so rich and thick that it will bear the addition of a very
small quantity of water sometimes, without causing the preserve to
mould. When the currants have been very dusty, we have
occasionally had them washed and drained before they were used,
without any injurious effects. Jam boiled down in the usual manner
with this fruit is often very dry. It may be greatly improved by taking
out nearly half the currants when it is ready to be potted, pressing
them well against the side of the preserving-pan to extract the juice:
this leaves the remainder far more liquid and refreshing than when
the skins are all retained. Another mode of making fine black currant
jam—as well as that of any other fruit—is to add one pound at least
of juice, extracted as for jelly, to two pounds of the berries, and to
allow sugar for it in the same proportion as directed for each pound
of them.
For marmalade or paste, which is most useful in affections of the
throat and chest, the currants must be stewed tender in their own
juice, and then rubbed through a sieve. After ten minutes’ boiling,
sugar in fine powder must be stirred gradually to the pulp, off the fire,
until it is dissolved: a few minutes more of boiling will then suffice to
render the preserve thick, and it will become quite firm when cold.
More or less sugar can be added to the taste, but it is not generally
liked very sweet.
Best black currant jam.—Currants, 4 lbs.; juice of currants, 2 lbs.:
15 to 20 minutes’ gentle boiling. Sugar, 3 to 4 lbs.: 10 minutes.
Marmalade, or paste of black currants.—Fruit, 4 lbs.: stewed in its
own juice 15 minutes, or until quite soft. Pulp boiled 10 minutes.
Sugar, from 7 to 9 oz. to the lb.: 10 to 14 minutes.
Obs.—The following are the receipts originally inserted in this
work, and which we leave unaltered.
To six pounds of the fruit, stripped carefully from the stalks, add
four pounds and a half of sugar. Let them heat gently, but as soon as
the sugar is dissolved boil the preserve rapidly for fifteen minutes. A
more common kind of jam may be made by boiling the fruit by itself
from ten to fifteen minutes, and for ten minutes after half its weight of
sugar has been added to it.
Black currants, 6 lbs.; sugar, 4-1/2 lbs.: 15 minutes. Or: fruit, 6 lbs.:
10 to 15 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 10 minutes.
Obs.—There are few preparations of fruit so refreshing and so
useful in illness as those of black currants, and it is therefore
advisable always to have a store of them, and to have them well and
carefully made.
NURSERY PRESERVE.

Take the stones from a couple of pounds of Kentish cherries, and


boil them twenty minutes; then add to them a pound and a half of
raspberries, and an equal quantity of red and of white currants, all
weighed after they have been cleared from their stems. Boil these
together quickly for twenty minutes; mix with them three pounds and
a quarter of common sugar, and give the preserve fifteen minutes
more of quick boiling. A pound and a half of gooseberries may be
substituted for the cherries; but they will not require any stewing
before they are added to the other fruits. The jam must be well
stirred from the beginning, or it will burn to the pan.
Kentish cherries, 2 lbs.: 20 minutes. Raspberries, red currants,
and white currants, of each 1-1/2 lb.: 20 minutes. Sugar, 3-1/4 lbs.:
15 minutes.
ANOTHER GOOD COMMON PRESERVE.

Boil together, in equal or unequal portions (for this is immaterial),


any kinds of early fruit, until they can be pressed through a sieve;
weigh, and then boil the pulp over a brisk fire for half an hour; add
half a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit, and again boil the
preserve quickly, keeping it well stirred and skimmed, from fifteen to
twenty minutes. Cherries, unless they be morellas, must first be
stewed tender apart, as they will require a much longer time to make
them so than any other of the first summer fruits.
A GOOD MÉLANGE, OR MIXED PRESERVE.

Boil for three-quarters of an hour in two pounds of clear red


gooseberry juice, one pound of very ripe greengages, weighed after
they have been pared and stoned; then stir to them one pound and a
half of good sugar, and boil them quickly again for twenty minutes. If
the quantity of preserve be much increased, the time of boiling it
must be so likewise: this is always better done before the sugar is
added.
Juice of ripe gooseberries, 2 lbs.; greengages, pared and stoned,
1 lb.: 3/4 hour. Sugar, 1-1/2 lb.: 20 minutes.
GROSEILLÉE.

(Another good preserve.)


Cut the tops and stalks from a gallon or more of well-flavoured ripe
gooseberries, throw them into a large preserving-pan, boil them for
ten minutes, and stir them often with a wooden spoon; then pass
both the juice and pulp through a fine sieve, and to every three
pounds’ weight of these add half a pint of raspberry-juice, and boil
the whole briskly for three-quarters of an hour; draw the pan aside,
stir in for the above portion of fruit, two pounds of sugar, and when it
is dissolved renew the boiling for fifteen minutes longer. Ripe
gooseberries, boiled 10 minutes. Pulp and juice of gooseberries, 6
lbs.; raspberry-juice, 1 pint: 3/4 hour. Sugar, 4 lbs.: 15 minutes.
Obs.—When more convenient, a portion of raspberries can be
boiled with the gooseberries at first.
SUPERIOR PINE-APPLE MARMALADE.

(A New Receipt.)
The market-price of our English pines is generally too high to
permit their being very commonly used for preserve; and though
some of those imported from the West Indies are sufficiently well-
flavoured to make excellent jam, they must be selected with
judgment for the purpose, or they will possibly not answer for it. They
should be fully ripe, but perfectly sound: should the stalk end appear
mouldy or discoloured, the fruit should be rejected. The degree of
flavour which it possesses may be ascertained with tolerable
accuracy by its odour; for if of good quality, and fit for use, it will be
very fragrant. After the rinds have been pared off, and every dark
speck taken from the flesh, the pines may be rasped on a fine and
delicately clean grater, or sliced thin, cut up quickly into dice, and
pounded in a stone or marble mortar; or a portion may be grated,
and the remainder reduced to pulp in the mortar. Weigh, and then
heat and boil it gently for ten minutes; draw it from the fire, and stir to
it by degrees fourteen ounces of sugar to the pound of fruit; boil it
until it thickens and becomes very transparent, which it will be in
about fifteen minutes, should the quantity be small: it will require a
rather longer time if it be large. The sugar ought to be of the best
quality and beaten quite to powder; and for this, as well as for every
other kind of preserve, it should be dry. A remarkably fine
marmalade may be compounded of English pines only, or even with
one English pine of superior growth, and two or three of the West
Indian mixed with it; but all when used should be fully ripe, without at
all verging on decay; for in no other state will their delicious flavour
be in its perfection.
In making the jam always avoid placing the preserving-pan flat
upon the fire, as this of itself will often convert what would otherwise
be excellent preserve, into a strange sort of compound, for which it is
difficult to find a name, and which results from the sugar being
subjected—when in combination with the acid of the fruit—to a
degree of heat which converts it into caramel or highly-boiled barley-
sugar. When there is no regular preserving-stove, a flat trivet should
be securely placed across the fire of the kitchen-range to raise the
pan from immediate contact with the burning coals, or charcoal. It is
better to grate down, than to pound the fruit for the present receipt
should any parts of it be ever so slightly tough; and it should then be
slowly stewed until quite tender before any sugar is added to it; or
with only a very small quantity stirred in should it become too dry. A
superior marmalade even to this, might probably be made by adding
to the rasped pines a little juice drawn by a gentle heat, or expressed
cold, from inferior portions of the fruit; but this is only supposition.
A FINE PRESERVE OF THE GREEN ORANGE PLUM.

(Sometimes called the Stonewood plum.)


This fruit, which is very insipid when ripe, makes an excellent
preserve if used when at its full growth, but while it is still quite hard
and green. Take off the stalks, weigh the plums, then gash them well
(with a silver knife, if convenient) as they are thrown into the
preserving-pan, and keep them gently stirred without ceasing over a
moderate fire, until they have yielded sufficient juice to prevent their
burning; after this, boil them quickly until the stones are entirely
detached from the flesh of the fruit. Take them out as they appear on
the surface, and when the preserve looks quite smooth and is well
reduced, stir in three-quarters of a pound of sugar beaten to a
powder, for each pound of the plums, and boil the whole very quickly
for half an hour or more. Put it, when done, into small moulds or
pans, and it will be sufficiently firm when cold to turn out well: it will
also be transparent, of a fine green colour, and very agreeable in
flavour.
Orange plums, when green, 6 lbs.: 40 to 60 minutes. Sugar, 4-1/2
lbs.: 30 to 50 minutes.
Obs.—The blanched kernels of part of the fruit should be added to
this preserve a few minutes before it is poured out: if too long boiled
in it they will become tough. They should always be wiped very dry
after they are blanched.
GREENGAGE JAM, OR MARMALADE.

When the plums are thoroughly ripe, take off the skins, stone,
weigh, and boil them quickly without sugar for fifty minutes, keeping
them well stirred; then to every four pounds add three of good sugar
reduced quite to powder, boil the preserve from five to eight minutes
longer, and clear off the scum perfectly before it is poured into the
jars. When the flesh of the fruit will not separate easily from the
stones, weigh and throw the plums whole into the preserving-pan,
boil them to a pulp, pass them through a sieve, and deduct the
weight of the stones from them when apportioning the sugar to the
jam. The Orleans plum may be substituted for greengages in this
receipt.
Greengages, stoned and skinned, 6 lbs.: 50 minutes. Sugar, 4-1/2
lbs.: 5 to 8 minutes.
PRESERVE OF THE MAGNUM BONUM, OR MOGUL PLUM.

Prepare, weigh, and boil the plums for forty minutes; stir to them
half their weight of good sugar beaten fine, and when it is dissolved
continue the boiling for ten additional minutes, and skim the preserve
carefully during the time. This is an excellent marmalade, but it may
be rendered richer by increasing the proportion of sugar. The
blanched kernels of a portion of the fruit stones will much improve its
flavour, but they should be mixed with it only two or three minutes
before it is taken from the fire. When the plums are not entirely ripe,
it is difficult to free them from the stones and skins: they should then
be boiled down and pressed through a sieve, as directed for
greengages, in the receipt above.
Mogul plums, skinned and stoned, 6 lbs.: 40 minutes. Sugar, 3
lbs.: 5 to 8 minutes.
TO DRY OR PRESERVE MOGUL PLUMS IN SYRUP.

Pare the plums, but do not remove the stalks or stones; take their
weight of dry sifted sugar, lay them into a deep dish or bowl, and
strew it over them; let them remain thus for a night, then pour them
gently into a preserving-pan with all the sugar, heat them slowly, and
let them just simmer for five minutes; in two days repeat the process,
and do so again and again at an interval of two or three days, until
the fruit is tender and very clear; put it then into jars, and keep it in
the syrup, or drain and dry the plums very gradually, as directed for
other fruit. When they are not sufficiently ripe for the skin to part from
them readily, they must be covered with spring water, placed over a
slow fire, and just scalded until it can be stripped from them easily.
They may also be entirely prepared by the receipt for dried apricots
which follows, a page or two from this.
MUSSEL PLUM CHEESE AND JELLY.

Fill large stone jars with the fruit, which should be ripe, dry, and
sound; set them into an oven from which the bread has been drawn
several hours, and let them remain all night; or, if this cannot
conveniently be done, place them in pans of water, and boil them
gently until the plums are tender, and have yielded their juice to the
utmost. Pour this from them, strain it through a jelly bag, weigh, and
then boil it rapidly for twenty-five minutes. Have ready, broken small,
three pounds of sugar for four of the juice, stir them together until it is
dissolved, and then continue the boiling quickly for ten minutes
longer, and be careful to remove all the scum. Pour the preserve into
small moulds or pans, and turn it out when it is wanted for table: it
will be very fine, both in colour and in flavour.
Juice of plums, 4 lbs.: 25 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 10 minutes.
The cheese.—Skin and stone the plums from which the juice has
been poured, and after having weighed, boil them an hour and a
quarter over a brisk fire, and stir them constantly; then to three
pounds of fruit add one of sugar, beaten to powder; boil the preserve
for another half hour, and press it into shallow pans or moulds.
Plums, 3 lbs.: 1-1/4 hour. Sugar, 1 lb.: 30 minutes.
APRICOT MARMALADE.

This may be made either by the receipt for greengage, or Mogul


plum marmalade; or the fruit may first be boiled quite tender, then
rubbed through a sieve, and mixed with three-quarters of a pound of
sugar to the pound of apricots: from twenty to thirty minutes will boil
it in this case. A richer preserve still is produced by taking off the
skins, and dividing the plums in halves or quarters, and leaving them
for some hours with their weight of fine sugar strewed over them
before they are placed on the fire; they are then heated slowly and
gently simmered for about half an hour.
TO DRY APRICOTS.

(A quick and easy method.)


Wipe gently, split, and stone some fine apricots which are not
over-ripe; weigh, and arrange them evenly in a deep dish or bowl,
and strew in fourteen ounces of sugar in fine powder, to each pound
of fruit; on the following day turn the whole carefully into a
preserving-pan, let the apricots heat slowly, and simmer them very
softly for six minutes, or for an instant longer, should they not in that
time be quite tender. Let them remain in the syrup for a day or two,
then drain and spread them singly on dishes to dry.
To each pound of apricots, 14 oz. of sugar; to stand 1 night, to be
simmered from 6 to 8 minutes, and left in syrup 2 or 3 days.
DRIED APRICOTS.

(French Receipt.)
Take apricots which have attained their full growth and colour, but
before they begin to soften; weigh, and wipe them lightly; make a
small incision across the top of each plum, pass the point of a knife
through the stalk end, and gently push out the stones without
breaking the fruit; next, put the apricots into a preserving-pan, with
sufficient cold water to float them easily; place it over a moderate
fire, and when it begins to boil, should the apricots be quite tender,
lift them out and throw them into more cold water, but simmer them,
otherwise, until they are so. Take the same weight of sugar that there
was of the fruit before it was stoned, and boil it for ten minutes with a
quart of water to the four pounds; skim the syrup carefully, throw in
the apricots (which should previously be well drained on a soft cloth,
or on a sieve), simmer them for one minute, and set them by in it
until the following day, then drain it from them, boil it for ten minutes,
and pour it on them the instant it is taken from the fire; in forty-eight
hours repeat the process, and when the syrup has boiled ten
minutes, put in the apricots, and simmer them from two to four
minutes, or until they look quite clear. They may be stored in the
syrup until wanted for drying, or drained from it, laid separately on
slates or dishes, and dried very gradually: the blanched kernels may
be put inside the fruit, or added to the syrup.
Apricots, 4 lbs., scalded until tender; sugar 4 lbs.; water, 1 quart:
10 minutes. Apricots, in syrup, 1 minute; left 24 hours. Syrup, boiled
again, 10 minutes, and poured on fruit: stand 2 days. Syrup, boiled
again, 10 minutes, and apricots 2 to 4 minutes, or until clear.
Obs.—The syrup should be quite thick when the apricots are put in
for the last time; but both fruit and sugar vary so much in quality and
in the degree of boiling which they require, that no invariable rule can
be given for the latter. The apricot syrup strained very clear, and
mixed with twice its measure of pale French brandy, makes an
agreeable liqueur, which is much improved by infusing in it for a few
days half an ounce of the fruit-kernels, blanched and bruised, to the
quart of liquor.
We have found that cherries prepared by either of the receipts
which we have given for preserving them with sugar, if thrown into
the apricot syrup when partially dried, just scalded in it, and left for a
fortnight, then drained and dried as usual, become a delicious
sweetmeat. Mussel, imperatrice, or any other plums, when quite ripe,
if simmered in it very gently until they are tender, and left for a few
days to imbibe its flavour, then drained and finished as usual, are
likewise excellent.
PEACH JAM, OR MARMALADE.

The fruit for this preserve, which is a very delicious one, should be
finely flavoured, and quite ripe, though perfectly sound. Pare, stone,
weigh, and boil it quickly for three-quarters of an hour, and do not fail
to stir it often during the time; draw it from the fire, and mix with it ten
ounces of well-refined sugar, rolled or beaten to powder, for each
pound of the peaches; clear it carefully from scum, and boil it briskly
for five minutes; throw in the strained juice of one or two good
lemons; continue the boiling for three minutes only, and pour out the
marmalade. Two minutes after the sugar is stirred to the fruit, add
the blanched kernels of part of the peaches.
Peaches, stoned and pared, 4 lbs.; 3/4 hour. Sugar, 2-1/2 lbs.: 2
minutes. Blanched peach-kernels: 3 minutes. Juice of 2 small
lemons: 3 minutes.
Obs.—This jam, like most others, is improved by pressing the fruit
through a sieve after it has been partially boiled. Nothing can be finer
than its flavour, which would be injured by adding the sugar at first;
and a larger proportion renders it cloyingly sweet. Nectarines and
peaches mixed, make an admirable preserve.
TO PRESERVE, OR TO DRY PEACHES OR NECTARINES.

(An easy and excellent Receipt.)


The fruit should be fine, freshly gathered, and fully ripe, but still in
its perfection. Pare, halve, and weigh it after the stones are removed;
lay it into a deep dish, and strew over it an equal weight of highly
refined pounded sugar; let it remain until this is nearly dissolved,
then lift the fruit gently into a preserving-pan, pour the juice and
sugar to it, and heat the whole over a very slow fire; let it just simmer
for ten minutes, then turn it softly into a bowl, and let it remain for two
days; repeat the slow heating and simmering at intervals of two or
three days, until the fruit is quite clear, when it may be potted in the
syrup, or drained from it, and dried upon large clean slates or dishes,
or upon wire-sieves. The flavour will be excellent. The strained juice
of a lemon may be added to the syrup, with good effect, towards the
end of the process, and an additional ounce or two of sugar allowed
for it.
DAMSON JAM. (VERY GOOD.)

The fruit for this jam should be freshly gathered and quite ripe.
Split, stone, weigh, and boil it quickly for forty minutes; then stir in
half its weight of good sugar roughly powdered, and when it is
dissolved, give the preserve fifteen minutes additional boiling,
keeping it stirred, and thoroughly skimmed.
Damsons, stoned, 6 lbs.: 40 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 15 minutes.
Obs.—A more refined preserve is made by pressing the fruit
through a sieve after it is boiled tender; but the jam is excellent
without.

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