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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Indians of the
Enchanted Desert
 This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States
and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no
restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it
under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this
ebook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the
United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where
you are located before using this eBook.

Title: Indians of the Enchanted Desert

Author: Leo Crane

Release date: July 2, 2022 [eBook #68445]

Language: English

Original publication: United States: Little, Brown, and Company,

1925

Credits: Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed Proofreading

Team at https://www.pgdp.net/ for Project Gutenberg (This
file was produced from images generously made available
by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK INDIANS OF

THE ENCHANTED DESERT ***
[Contents]

[Contents]

INDIANS OF THE ENCHANTED DESERT

[Contents]
Photo. by W. C. Wilson
ANNOUNCING THE SNAKE DANCE

Priest at sunset removing kiva signal

[Contents]
 INDIANS OF THE
ENCHANTED DESERT

BY
LEO CRANE

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS
BOSTON
LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY
1925
[Contents]

Copyright, 1925,
By Little, Brown, and Company.

All rights reserved

Published September, 1925

First Impression September, 1925

The Atlantic Monthly Press

Publications
are published by
Little, Brown, and Company
in association with
The Atlantic Monthly Company

Printed in the United States of America

[Contents]

TO

those people of the Enchanted Desert who

called me “Chief,”—Indians, employees,
 missioners, traders,—whose confidence,
loyalty, and devotion made my work among
the Hopi and Navajo tribes possible of
success; and to humbler friends, my faithful
horses, Dandy and Barney Murphy, Prince
and Frank, that went with me so many
weary miles, and were shot, by my order, to
save them from the miseries of
Governmental economy, this book is
dedicated. [vii]

[Contents]
 CONTENTS

PAGE
I Nolens Volens 3
II Across the Plains 11
III Into “Indian Country” 22
IV Old Trails and Desert Fare 30
V Desert Life and Literature 44
VI A Northern Wonderland 54
VII The First Ball of the Season 65
VIII Old Oraibi 78
IX The Making and Breaking of Chiefs 94
X The Provinces of the “Mohoce or Mohoqui” 101
XI The Law of the Realm 113
XII Comments and Complaints 122
XIII A Desert Vendée 142
XIV Soldiers, Indians, and Schools 157
XV An Echo of the Dawn-Men 181
XVI Fiddles and Drums 191
XVII Service Tradition 210
XVIII Buttons and Bonds 224
XIX Our Friends, the Tourists 240
XX The Great Snake-Ceremony [viii] 260
XXI Desert Belascos 275
XXII On the Heels of Adventure 287
XXIII The Red Bootleggers 297
XXIV Held for Ransom 312
XXV Wanted at Court 325
XXVI Hopi Annals 336
XXVII L’Envoi 361
[ix]

[Contents]
 ILLUSTRATIONS

Announcing the Snake Dance Frontispiece

Walpi, the Pueblo of the Clouds 12

The Valley and Its Headlands

A Navajo Flock and Its Shepherds 16

Cañon de Chelly, Seen from the Rim

Crossing the Desert below Chimney Butte 58

The Oraibi Wash in Flood-Time

Navajo on Their Way to a Dance 70

A Navajo Hogan and Its Blanket Loom

Outfit of a Well-Digger, the Desert “Water-Witch” 84

Drying Bed of the Little Colorado River

The Hopi Ceremonial Corn-Planting 92

Hopi Gardens in a Spring-Fed Nook of the Desert

Hopi Indian Agency at Keams Cañon 106

Hopi Indian Hospital at Keams Cañon

A Busy Day at the Trading-Post, Keams Cañon 118

Ready for the 105-Mile Trek to the Railroad

Hostin Nez, Navajo Chief and Medicine Man 124

Judge Hooker Hongave of the Indian Court 132

Youkeoma, Antelope Priest and Prophet 162

A Mesa Road—Old Trail to Hotevilla 170
A Pretentious Home at Hotevilla

A Hopi Schoolgirl 178

A Hopi Youth Who Is Preparing for College

The Walpi Headland, Seen from the Orchards 196

The Walpi Stairway, A Rock-Ladder to the Sky 202 [x]

The Author, in the Enchanted Desert 230

Old Glory and the Bond Flag at the Agency

Albert Yava: Interpreter 234

Tom Pavatea: Hopi Merchant and Patriot

The Corn Rock, an Ancient Bartering-place 238

Opening the Walpi Snake Dance 250

Dramatic Entry of the Snake Priests

The Gatherer, Handling a Rattlesnake 266

A Patriarch of Snakes

The Chief Snake-Priest 272

The Enchanted Desert and the Moqui Buttes 282

In the Twin-Butte Country 294

Silversmith Jim: a Typical Navajo

Billa Chezzi: Chief of the Northern Navajo 316

Nelson Oyaping: Tewa Chief of Police

A Navajo Boy Who Has Never Been to Any School 322

A Hopi Range-Rider 336

Blue Cañon: A Study in Blue-and-White
A Hopi Shrine 338
A Hopi Weaver of Ceremonial Robes
A Katchina Dance

Hopi Mother in Gala Dress, with Her Child 340

Navajo Mother with Child in Cradle

A New Son of the Desert 344

Hopi Girls Arrayed for a Dance

Hopi Wedding Costume 352

A Hopi Beauty 358 [1]

[Contents]
 INDIANS OF THE ENCHANTED DESERT

[3]
I
 NOLENS VOLENS
It is well for a man to respect his own vocation,
whatever it is, and to think himself bound to
uphold it and to claim for it the respect it
deserves.—Charles Dickens

They were good fellows, cordial, modest, although somewhat shy in

manner, the sort that would have been more at home perhaps
among fewer men. They came out of the West, at infrequent
intervals, to visit the Chief, who in those days did not keep them
waiting. The course of business, filtering down through the red-taped
labyrinth, brought some of them to my desk and within my survey. I
wonder now what they thought of me, especially as I am about to
relate how I viewed them.

Imbued as I was then with the rare efficiency of bureaucracy, I

sympathized with their apparent helplessness in the transaction of
Departmental business. They were always wanting to do promptly
things that weren’t done. Aside from that, I found them interesting,
they being from what an Easterner would term the “hinterland,” had
he vision enough to know that his country has one. I thought they
would have tales to tell—a hope that never materialized.

When one came to know them better, as I sometimes did, they would
relate their problems in a constrained, half pathetic manner, as if,
seeking something and finding it not, they were confused. The idea
came to me that they were awed, if not actually bewildered, by their
uncommon [4]experiences in the big city. I did not dream that they
were struggling manfully, as indeed they could, to restrain a just
wrath; that their seeming pathos was a sort of crude pity, inspired by
the artificialities and cheap bluff that they saw around them. Their