Puppy Dog Friend

This is the fourth version of my Foxy

Friend pattern. It’s supposed to be
the kind of dog who is golden-yellow,
like some Labrador Retrievers, but
really just a cute puppy. Slightly
more fiddly muzzle shape than the
previous ones, but still easy enough.
I have in mind that I could do a
piglet and a teddy bear, but probably
a bunny will be next.
I could put them all on one pattern
but this is simpler and since they
are all free I hope you don’t mind!
They are all reaching out for a hug.

Pattern Overview:
Work this in amigurumi style, in
spirals, marking your row start (or
end, as you please) so you don't lose
track. No stepping up.
This is written in UK style – US, see the abbreviations to translate.

Materials:
1 ball of Catania in gold, or whatever colour you want your puppy. I used 249, gold, which
is probably my most-used Catania colour.

2.5mm crochet hook

Large-eye needle (or smaller hook) to finish the ends (pull through inside) and sew up.

Stuffing, pair of 8 or 9mm safety eyes, and 6 or 7mm safety nose – or embroider it with
a scrap of darker brown or pink yarn.

Size: About 9cm (3 ¾”) tall.

Tension: Not important, but try not to be too loose or the stuffing will show.

Abbreviations:
dc – double crochet, (what the US calls sc)

dec – decrease, work two stitches together, dc two together (US, sc two together). Either
pull one loop through each of the next two stitches so you have three loops on the hook
and then finish them off together, or do an invisible decrease.

ch – chain.
Method:
Muzzle: Make this first, you need it to help place the eyes when making the
head.

Row 1: 7ch, 2dc into 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 4 dc, 5 dc in last ch, working in the
back loops of the chain, dc in each of the next 4 loops, 3dc in last loop (which is the back
of the first chain you used, where you put the 2dc). You now have 18 dc around an oval.
Slip stitch into the first dc of the row to join the ring.

Row 2: 2dc in the same place as the joining stitch, dc in each of next 6 dc,
2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, dc in each of next 6 dc, 2dc in next dc,
dc in next dc, join as before. (22 stitches)

Row 3: In the back loops of each stitch only, dc into each dc, join (22)

Row 4 and 5: dc into each dc (22)

Pull thread through, leaving a long end to sew the muzzle onto the head. Put the nose,
if you are using one, in the middle of one long side just above the edge formed by
working into the back loops only. I found that the back of my nose-piece fitted better
into this muzzle with the narrower part at the front – I usually use the wider part first
for both eyes and noses, but that would distort this shape. Stuff – you may need to add
stuffing once you have most of this sewn to the head.

Head:
Row 1: 6 dc into a magic ring.

Row 2: 2dc into each dc (12 stitches)

Row 3: (1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (18)

Row 4: (2 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (24)

Row 5: (3 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (30)

Row 6: (4 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (36)

Row 7: (5 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (42)

Row 8: (6 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (48)

Rows 9-15: 1dc in each dc to end (48) – that’s 6 rows without shaping.

Row 16: (6 dc, dec) x 6 (42)

Row 17: (5 dc, dec) x 6 (36)

Row 18: (4 dc, dec) x 6 (30)

Row 19: (3 dc, dec) x 6 (24)

Row 20: (2 dc, dec) x 6 (18)

Place the muzzle so that it sits between row 12 and about row 18 and sew it in place.
Put the safety eyes in just above and either side of it as shown, between rows 11 and 12
about 5 stitches apart – but actually wherever looks good to you once you have placed
the muzzle.

Stuff the head.

Row 21: (1 dc, dec) x 6 (12)

Row 22: (dec) x 6 (6)

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing to the body – or you can leave the end on the
body instead. No need to pull the stitches tight, but you can if you like.

Ears:
Make two.

Row 1: 6 dc into a magic ring.

Row 2: 2dc into each dc (12 stitches)

Row 3: (1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (18)

Row 4: (2 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (24)

Row 5: (3 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (30)

Row 6: (4 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 3 – do not

finish the row (33)

Leave a tail to sew on, make another one.

Fold in half, so that the side you have
done the half-row more on sits against
the other side, and stitch through the
places you would put your hook to sew
together, so that the tops of the row still
show and the ear is quite flat - see
picture.

Stitch to the head between about the 6th and 8th rows, just about half way back - see
pictures – with the seam facing forwards, but really put them wherever they look good
to you.
Body:
Row 1: 6 dc into a magic ring.

Row 2: 2dc into each dc (12)

Row 3: (1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (18)

Row 4: (2 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (24)

Row 5: (3 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (30)

Row 6: (4 dc, 2dc in next dc) x 6 (36)

Rows 7-12: dc into each dc (36) –

that’s 6 more rows straight.

Row 13: (4 dc, dec) x 6 (30)

Row 14: dc into each dc (30)

Row 15: (3 dc, dec) x 6 (24)

Row 16: dc into each dc (24)

Leave a long end, stuff and sew to the head around the 19th row (which also has 24
stitches, so you can sew stitch to stitch if you like). Don’t overstuff, or the base will be
too round for your puppy to sit neatly without falling over all the time.

Tail:
Row 1: 3 dc into a magic ring.

Rows 2 : 2dc in each dc (6 stitches).

Rows 3-11: dc into each dc (6 stitches) – that’s 9 rows without shaping.

Leave an end for sewing. Flatten the very end where you finished, and stitch just that
row to the back of the dog, around row 6 of the body.
Front Paws:
Row 1: 6 dc into a magic ring.

Row 2: (1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 3 (9)

Rows 3-6: dc in each dc to end (9) – that’s 4 rows.

Leave an end for sewing, make a second one, stitch to body either side of where the
nose droops between about rows 12 and 15, 5 stitches visible between them – or
however you think is good. Mine is supposed to be holding his paws out for a hug.

Back Paws:
Row 1: 6 dc into a magic ring.

Row 2: (1dc, 2dc in next dc) x 3 (9)

Rows 3-5: dc in each dc to end (9) – that’s 3 rows.

Leave an end for sewing, make a second one, stitch them to the body between rows 4
and 7 right at the bottom of the front with only one stitch or so showing between them
– but maybe pin it first, to be sure your dog can ‘sit’ neatly – remember you have a tail
at the back to place too.

Do fiddle with this pattern to make it more the way you want it. The tail could be
longer or thicker. The back paws could be stitched to the bottom of the body so the dog
is standing up, and you could use the tail as a third point for balance so it could
manage to stand, if you make it stiff, sew it on solidly and perhaps make it shorter or
longer – maybe try putting a pipe-cleaner or wire in it. The front paws could be longer,
and/or less stuffed so they hang at the sides (under the head, as from shoulders,
perhaps). Enjoy.