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 Proper Way to Wrap Papers for Mailing

The Clipped Corners Prevent the Adhesive from Coming in Contact with the
Paper inclosed

In using a homemade paper wrapper for mailing purposes cut a

triangular section from each end of it before applying the paste or
mucilage. This prevents the adhesive from oozing out at the edges
and sticking to the paper it incloses. This also permits the easy
withdrawal of the paper.
 Groove Cutter for Wood
Having occasion to cut some grooves in a board and not being
properly equipped for such work, I made the tool shown in the
sketch. Although rather crude in appearance it will do good work if
properly made. It consists of a handle, A, shaped to afford a
comfortable grip for the hand, and a cutter, B, made of a short piece
of hacksaw blade, clamped along the left side of the handle by the
strip C, which is held with screws. A pin, D, driven into the handle
and allowed to project about ¹⁄₁₆ in., prevents the blade from sliding
back under the clamp. For guiding the blade, the arrangement F is
employed. An extension, E, is nailed on the right side of the handle,
and holes made near each end for two screws having round heads,
such as may be obtained from discarded dry batteries. These screws
are for securing the sliding stop F, which is a flat piece of hardwood
with slots cut near the end for screws to pass through to provide for
adjustment.
 Two Slots are Made with the Cutter, and the Stock between Them Removed
with a Chisel

In use, the guide F is adjusted until it is the desired distance from

the cutter and then secured by the screws. The tool is handled like a
plane, care being taken not to bear down too hard, as the cutter may
bind and cause it to be pulled from the clamp. In cutting a groove,
two slots are cut and the stock between them removed with a chisel.
A One-Runner Sled
The Barrel Stave Has a Sufficient Curve to Make It Pass Smoothly over Hard
Snow
 Just an ordinary barrel stave, with a center post and a crossboard
for a seat, makes a good one-runner sled. Select a good, smooth
stave for the runner and securely fasten the upright, which is 1 ft.
long, to it in the center. The seat is made of a board, about 1¹⁄₂ ft.
long, nailed to the upper end of the upright.
 Substitute for a Gas-Stove Oven
Wishing to bake a nice loaf cake one afternoon for dinner, and
finding that the fire in my range had gone out, I remembered an oven
shown me at one time for use on a small gas plate, which consisted
of a cover, a bottom piece, and a support for the pan. The thought
came to me that with all my pots and pans I ought to be able to get
some results by the combination of two pie tins, a cake pan, and a
stew pan, and on trial it baked as fine a cake as anyone could wish.

A Combination of Pie Tins, Cake Pan, and Stew Pan to Make Temporary Gas-
Stove Oven
 A small pie tin was placed in a larger one, as shown; on this was
placed the cake pan filled with the cake batter, and over the whole
was placed the stew pan, which acted as a heat retainer or oven. A
good hot flame was used at first, and was then gradually turned
lower until the cake was finished.—Contributed by Mrs. Anna M. B.
Romig, Allentown, Pa.
 Box Cover without Hinges

Box Cover Using Pins Instead of Hinges to Keep It in Place

Two ordinary boxes may be fitted together as one without using

hinges, if nails or screws are inserted at points along the edges so
that they will slip into holes bored at corresponding points in the
edges of the other box. The nail heads or screw heads should be
filed off or cut off after being placed in position.
¶All metal patterns should be thoroughly cleaned with a stiff brush
having plenty of beeswax on it and dipped in powdered plumbago.
Brush the pattern well, and it will draw easily and make a smooth
casting.
 Sanitary Holder for Thread and Dental Floss
A simple and convenient method of protecting a spool of thread, or
dental floss, from collecting dirt and germs is shown in the
illustration. A small glass jar, with a metal screw top, is procured, of
such a size that it will easily accommodate the spool of thread
desired to protect, with at least ¹⁄₈ in. clearance all around the edge
of the spool. Procure a short piece of stiff wire, not more than ¹⁄₁₆ in.
in diameter, and make a frame similar in form to the one shown. The
center portion of this frame should be just a little longer than the
spool, so that a small wood key may be placed through the eye
formed in the wire and thus hold the spool firmly on the frame. The
outside portions of the frame should be such a distance apart that
they will rest against the sides of the jar and of such a length that
they will reach from the bottom to the top of the jar when the lid is
screwed down tightly. If these dimensions are observed, the spool
and frame will remain in a fixed position in the jar.
 A small opening, just a little larger than the thread, is made in the
center of the lid, through which the thread is to pass. The edges of
this opening are smoothed off so that they will not cut the thread
when it is being drawn out. A small cutter may be made by forming a
V-shaped opening in the lid, through which the thread is to pass. The
edges of the V-shaped piece are sharpened to serve as a cutting
edge. The end of the thread will be held under the V-shaped piece
after it is cut, thus preventing it from falling back into the jar.

¶The word “diameter” when applied to gears is always understood to

mean the pitch diameter.
 The Sporting Rifle
and How to Use It
by Stillman Taylor

Sportsmen are interested in rifles and rifle shooting largely from the
hunting standpoint, although target shooting is a favorite sport
with many of them. This discussion of the sporting rifle will be
concerned, therefore, principally with the hunting aspects, other
forms of shooting being considered as good methods of practice,
and the development of skill in the use of hunting weapons. The
novice, as well as the good shot, must have a suitable weapon, and
should have at least a general knowledge of the types of rifles
available, and their common uses. A number of representative types
of rifles are shown in Fig. 1, and the details of the breech
mechanisms and sights in Fig. 2. Targets and a homemade device
for backing them are shown in Fig. 3. The full-page illustration shows
several positions in the use of the rifle; a moving-target arrangement,
to be constructed by the ambitious shot; a diagram of the trajectory
of a rifle bullet, and several diagrams of the vital shots, in hunting
common big game.
The single-shot rifle, shown at A, Fig. 1, has been largely
supplanted by the repeater and the automatic, so far as hunting is
concerned. For use exclusively in indoor shooting, a heavy rifle of
the “Schuetzen” type is best suited. A high-grade ornamented rifle of
this type is shown in the headpiece of this article.
The most popular type of American rifle is the repeater of the
lever-action variety, shown at B. The lever action embodies many
good points: quickness of fire, ease of operation, freedom from
jamming at a critical moment, strength, and plenty of stopping power.
The mechanism of the lever-action repeating rifle is shown in detail
at J, Fig. 2, and that of the falling-breech-block type of single-shot
rifle, at K. Several other types of lever-action rifles are shown in Fig.
1.
Almost all lever-action repeaters are of the tubular-magazine type,
the magazine extending under the barrel, sometimes the full length
—full magazine; or halfway—half magazine. Rifles of these types are
shown at B and C, and a hammerless repeater at D.
The trombone, or pump-action, repeating rifle, shown at E, has a
mechanism similar to that used in the repeating shotgun, the sliding
forearm loading and ejecting the cartridge. The merit of the military
bolt-action rifle lies in its great strength and simplicity. A weapon of
this type was used by Roosevelt in Africa, and by other big-game
hunters. It is shown at F.
The chief advantages of the automatic rifle, shown at G, which is a
comparatively new weapon, are its speed in firing and its almost
noiseless action. This rifle has a recoil-operated action of the blow-
back type. That shown at H has a box magazine, and the automatic
action is based on the sliding of the barrel within a steel jacket. The
rifle shown at I may be used either as an automatic or as a pump-
action weapon.
The subject of stock and trigger adjustment is one to which every
experienced rifleman devotes considerable attention. The regular
stock rifle is built to standard dimensions, and often the stock is
found a trifle short. For the man of average reach, a 13³⁄₄-in. stock,
with a 1⁷⁄₈-in. drop at the comb, and about 3 in. drop at the heel, will
be found satisfactory.
 Fig. 1

Various Types of Rifles in Common Use: A, English Model, Single-Shot,

with Open Sights and Shotgun Butt; B, Lever-Action Repeater, Tubular
Half Magazine; C, Lever-Action Repeater, Box Magazine; D, Hammerless,
Lever-Action Repeater; E, Pump-Action, High-Power Repeater; F, Military
Bolt-Action, Sporting Model; G, Automatic, Blow-Back Action; H,
Automatic, Box Magazine; I, Automatic, Combination Pump-Action

Rifle sights are of several types, of which there are in turn many
variations. Only the essentials of the standard types will be
considered. The regulation open sights, with which most rifles are
fitted at the factory, are the buckhorn rear and the Rocky Mountain
front sight. For a hunting rifle the most satisfactory sights are a gold-
bead front sight of about ³⁄₃₂-in. diameter, as shown in Fig. 2 at L; a
folding-leaf rear sight, shown at O, P, and Q, and a combination rear
aperture sight, at M and N, mounted on the tang of the rifle. An arm
so sighted is useful for all kinds of shooting. The combination rear
sight is used in deliberate shots at a target or at game, and the
folding-leaf sight is better than the buckhorn for quick snap shooting.
The sportsman who wishes to master the use of a rifle must have
a knowledge of the trajectory of such weapons, and particularly of
the rifle he uses regularly. He must know, also, how to aline the
sights correctly to get satisfactory results. The trajectory is the path
which the rifle bullet takes in passing from the muzzle of the rifle to
its mark. The force of gravity acts upon the bullet in flight and the
result is that the trajectory is curved, as indicated in the diagram at
the bottom of the page illustration. A relatively low trajectory is, of
course, desirable in a hunting rifle. The black-powder, or slow-speed,
cartridge has a relatively high trajectory, while the high-power
smokeless cartridges have relatively low trajectories.
The adjustment of the sights of a rifle is also of much importance.
Every rifle is targeted at the factory, but this may be done by a fair
shot, using the following method: Arrange three boxes, so that the
rifle barrel may rest upon one, and the arms of the marksman upon
the other two. Place a bag of sand upon the box, so that the barrel
may rest upon it, about 6 in. from the muzzle. Put the target into
place, and adjust the sights for 100 yd. If the sights are properly lined
up, the shots should fall quite regularly within a 10-in. circle. With
peep, or other target, sights, much finer results will be obtained. In
moving the sights it must be remembered that to move the rear sight
to the right will bring the shot to the right, and vice versa, while if the
front sight is moved to the right, the arm will shoot to the left. In
making the test, first adjust the front sight so that it is in exact
alinement with the center of the barrel, and then all corrections may
be made by moving the rear sight.
The proper way to sight a rifle is to hold the front sight just clear of
the notch in the rear sight, with the front bead barely touching the
outer ring of the bull’s-eye, at the extreme bottom. This is shown at
R, Fig. 3. It is the rule of good rifle shot to “see daylight between the
sight and the bull’s-eye.” In any event, do not cover up the front sight
by drawing it down into the notch of the rear sight, so that only the
top of the bead is visible. Another frequent error is to hold the front
sight to cover the bull’s-eye.
 The Off-Hand, Knee-Support, and Prone Positions in Shooting should be
Mastered by the Sportsman. The Diagrams Represent Several Vital
Shots, the Moving Target, and the Trajectory of a Rifle Bullet

The sportsman who wishes to become a practical rifle shot should

learn how to handle the rifle in the several useful positions, so that
he may be able to sight accurately under different conditions.
Several of the most widely used positions are shown in the page
illustration. The off-hand position, with arm extended, is the most
commonly used and best position for the sportsman to practice, for
use in the woods. The off-hand, with body rest, or elbow resting on
the hip, is good for target shooting. The “Schuetzen” style of holding
the rifle, with palm rest, is used only in fine match shooting.
The knee-rest position is often useful for the sportsman in stalking
game, when it is desirable to expose oneself as little as possible. A
steadier aim may be secured, especially if a strong wind is blowing.
The prone position is much used by military riflemen, but they are
not permitted the muzzle rest, whereas the hunter often uses it. It is
easy to learn, and more accurate shooting may be done in this
position than in the off-hand or knee-rest positions.
For indoor practice at a target, the .22-caliber rifle is best. By fitting
up a suitable backstop, shooting may be done safely in the cellar or
attic. A satisfactory backstop may be made by fastening a plate of
iron into a packing box, 3 ft. square, as shown in Fig. 3. The plate
must be set at an angle so that the bullets will be deflected to the
bottom of the box.
In order that the rifleman may check up his work, it is desirable
that a standard target be used. The American standard target,
shown in Fig. 3, has been adopted by practically all rifle clubs, and,
as the majority of records are made upon it, the sportsman should
become familiar with it. The paper targets are inexpensive, and it is
easy to draw accurate homemade targets from the original. By the
use of disks of black and white paper—known as gummed target
pasters—one target may be used several times.
If convenient to do so, the novice should shoot a string of shots
every day, in the various positions. Do not try to hurry, but shoot
deliberately at first, aiming to secure a good average, rather than a
few bull’s-eye shots and many wild ones. With reasonable practice, it
is not difficult to score eight bull’s-eyes out of ten shots, when using
the prone position. Having attained this proficiency, the sportsman
may be regarded as a fair shot, and is ready to take up outdoor
target practice with the high-power rifle.