VEEJER ENTERPRISES, INC.

COMPUTER CONTROLLED
CRANKING CIRCUITS: PART 2
WHAT TO TEST, HOW AND WHEN?
The two most important parameters in any electrical and electronic circuit are
voltage values, including voltage drop tests and electron current readings
performed at the right time and at the right place in the circuit. This vital
information is the heart and soul of troubleshooting ANY circuit. Some DMM
readings are important when the circuit is at rest as well at various stages during
circuit operation. Effective electrical-electronic circuit troubleshooting training
must specify what to check, when to check it and what the proper reading should
be. Then, what to do if a reading is too high or too low.

In Part 1 we discussed and illustrated a cranking circuit controlled by computer.

Now we begin to study troubleshooting this circuit by rst adding mechanical
switches as we would nd in a typical earlier version cranking circuit and focus our
discussion on troubleshooting the battery and the starter motor rst. These
troubleshooting procedures will be used throughout the entire circuit as we
proceed into the electronics.

DMM #1 measures battery voltage and DMM #2/current clamp measures starter
motor draw. Below in Figure 2-1, the circuit is placed in operation by closing two
switches, P/N and START. The starter solenoid is energized and heavy-duty
contacts close to connect the battery to the starter motor. The battery supplies B+
voltage which drives starter motor electron current through the circuit.

This gives us our rst voltage and electron current measurements to de ne circuit
performance. Battery voltage is measured with the circuit at rest to determine
battery state of charge. Then the circuit is turned ON and battery voltage continues
to be measured to see how the battery performs under load. While the starter
motor is engaged a current clamp measures electron current owing to the starter
motor as some would call "starter draw".
 Fig. 2-1 Measuring Cranking Voltage and Cranking Amps

This circuit seems simple and easily diagnosed with a test light. However as was
pointed out in Part 1, there are critical circuit component performance issues
during circuit operation that cannot be evaluated with a test light. For example,
how can battery voltage state of charge be measured with a test light? How much
does the battery voltage drop under load while cranking? What do these voltage
readings tell us? How do you measure starter motor draw with a test light? How
much electron current does the starter motor draw? How does that reading help us
determine starter motor ef ciency? These issues can only be determined by voltage
and electron current measurements during circuit operation and in the appropriate
location in the circuit. Comparing battery cranking voltage and starter motor
cranking amps will quickly con rm the circuit is functioning properly or identify
problems if they exist.

If we can understand these electrical tests for voltage and electron current we will
have a better understanding of what these readings tell us about the electronic
circuits controlling the starter solenoid if they are applied.

DMM #1 in Figure 2-2, below, is measuring battery voltage under load and this
voltage measurement is called the "Cranking Voltage Test". This is a critical voltage
value that helps to evaluate the entire circuit. Understand that the battery voltage
while cranking the engine decreases and at the same time must maintain suf cient
voltage to continue to operate the electronic circuit at the same time it is supplying
electron current to the starter motor.
 Fig. 2-2 DMM #1 Measures Cranking Voltage

If the battery (cranking) voltage drops too low it could affect the PCM’s ability to
pulse the fuel injectors resulting in a no RUN condition. Of course, if the battery
cranking voltage dropped that low, you would expect to hear a suspicious dragging
starter motor. And seeing the battery voltage drop below 9.2 V under load would
reveal why the fuel injectors aren’t delivering fuel. Most PCM’s will shut off the fuel
injectors when battery voltage drops below 9.2 V or whatever voltage threshold a
particular manufacturer speci es.

You may not easily nd a speci cation from some vehicle manufacturer for how low
battery voltage can drop when cranking the engine. There are too many variables to
consider, especially ambient temperature. Let’s say we have a good battery and the
cranking voltage drops to 10.8 V when the ambient temperature is 90° F (32.2° C).
Now let’s say that the ambient temperature overnight drops to 30° F (-1.1° C) and
the same vehicle is cranked after sitting overnight. In the cold of the morning this
same battery and cranking circuit with a cold engine might see the cranking voltage
drop down to 10.21 V as shown in Figure 2-2. Ambient temperature has a major
impact on the cranking voltage.

Other factors which affect the cranking voltage are state of charge of the battery,
age of the battery, condition of the starter motor and many others but I think you
get the point that the cranking voltage can vary over a wide range depending on
numerous factors. We now have a dilemma. What it is an acceptable cranking
voltage in the real world?
SOLUTION TO THE BATTERY CRANKING
VOLTAGE DILEMMA
The question of how low battery voltage can drop while cranking the engine and
the battery be considered good or bad often would come up in my electrical classes.
I needed an answer! I lived and trained technicians in the real world. The answer is
in the real world, not in books or in a battery manufacturer speci cation chart.

When I started electrical training classes full time in 1985, the only answer I could
offer to test the battery was to use a carbon pile load tester. That proved to be more
trouble than it was worth because it created more questions needing answers.
Besides, many shops did not have a carbon pile load tester. The following question
kept coming up and I needed to nd an answer.

Why does the battery voltage drop below 9.6 V (indicating bad battery) during
the carbon pile load test but the battery still cranks the engine? How can I tell the
customer he needs a new battery because it failed the carbon pile load test when
it still cranks the engine?

I needed a better answer than a carbon pile load tester. As the years went by and I
presented one electrical class after another all over the USA and Canada, in all
kinds of eets, in all kinds of weather, containing all types of vehicles, personal cars,
domestic and imports, sedans, pickups, SUVs and even some big rigs and heavy
equipment, I tested the cranking voltage on thousands of vehicles all kinds of
weather.

Here is what I found. A “good” functioning battery during engine cranking should
stay above 10.00 V. I can con dently say that after testing hundreds of vehicles
over 30 years, the 10 V rule is a reliable indicator of battery condition under load
operating the starter motor of the vehicle. Keep in mind the battery is cranking the
engine while measuring the cranking voltage. Above 10.00 V the battery stays in
service. If battery voltage drops under 10.00 V it indicates a weak or marginal
battery. You must make a decision whether or not to replace the battery at this
time. Such a decision is based on many factors which are discussed in our book
SHORTCUTS.

I recommend performing a cranking voltage test every time a new battery is

installed for practice. A new, fully charged battery has a cranking voltage as high as
11.50 V. The cranking voltage gradually decreases as the battery ages and that’s
what we can use to evaluate battery condition. "The Battery Voltage Rule Under
Load" makes it sound of cial and is stated below. It will help arriving at a decision to
remain in service or replace.

A "good" battery will maintain a cranking voltage above 10.00 V.

A "marginal" battery will drop below 10.00 V during cranking.

A marginal battery will drop below 10.00 V, say 9.90 V. The lower battery cranking
voltage drops below 10.00 V, the weaker the battery. Extremely cold weather could
contribute to battery cranking voltage dropping below 10.00 V but be perfectly
good in warmer weather and not drop below 10.00 V. Ambient temperature must
be factored in to your nal decision to recommend the battery should be replaced
because it drops below 10.00 V.

For a deeper analysis and discussion of this concept consult our book "Vehicle
Electrical Troubleshooting SHORTCUTS".

DMM #2/Current Clamp, shown below in Figure 2-3, is measuring starter motor
electron current draw.

Fig. 2-3 DMM #2/Current Clamp Measures Starter Motor Cranking

Amps

The DMM indicates .195 which represents 195 cranking amps. This reading is a
clear indication of normal starter motor performance. But rst we have to discuss
what normal readings we should expect.
The problem is vehicle manufacturers are very hesitant to specify the correct
cranking amps for a particular vehicle because there are too many factors that can
affect the cranking amp reading. The major factor is the cranking motor RPM which
has a dramatic impact on starter motor cranking amps. DC starter motors are
notorious for drawing higher than normal electron current when they operate
lower than their normal RPM, as in a "dragging" starter motor.

There are two “electric” forces bucking each other in a DC electric motor. EMF is
the electromotive force (called voltage) that pushes electrons through the motor
winding. CEMF is a counter electromotive force (a form of resistance) that “resists”
the ow of electrons through the motor winding.

As DC motor RPM increases the counter electromotive force also increases to

oppose the electron current owing through the motor winding resulting in a lower
cranking amp reading which we come to recognize as a “normal” starter motor
draw.

A high cranking amp reading does not necessarily indicate a bad starter motor. It
could be nothing more than the extra load of a cold engine on a cold morning that is
harder to crank so the cranking amps are higher in the cold morning then they
would be in the warmer afternoon. You would also hear the starter motor laboring
“dragging” on a cold morning as it cranks at a lower RPM.

However, if the same vehicle is tested in the warmer afternoon the cranking amps
will be lower and at a more normal reading, whatever that is for a particular make
and model and engine size (4-6-8 cylinders). You will also notice a more robust
cranking sound as the starter motor cranks at a higher RPM.

We could go on and on discussing battery age and state of charge, battery cable
condition, ambient temperature and engine compression ef ciency to name just a
few to try and come up with a formula for what the cranking amps should be for
particular engine. But we live in the real world, don’t we? And yes, the answer is in
the real world. All the years that I tested battery cranking voltage in the real world,
at the same time I also tested starter cranking amps or as some call it “starter motor
draw.”

Over time I was able to conclude from the cranking amp reading, considering
ambient temperature at test time, number of cylinders size and the make and model
of vehicle, what I should expect for a normal cranking amp reading. I highly
recommend that you begin to test cranking amps every chance you get and acquire
your own mental database for the cranking amps that normally appear in the
vehicles you work on every day. And don’t forget you will also hear cranking
performance which will give you additional audible information to help you decide
why the cranking amps are too high or too low and what that means.

I say again, if you don’t have a current clamp GET ONE! There is no better way to
test a DC cranking motor than measuring starter motor draw and knowing battery
cranking voltage at the same time to pinpoint the cause of a cranking problem.

The starter motor circuit troubleshooting scenario has not changed since the rst
starter motors appeared on cars back in the early days till today with computer
controlled cranking circuits. Some things never change but get better with the
electrical tools we have like DMMs and Current Clamps if we know how to use
them.

Next time in Part 3 we discuss using voltage drop measurements to nd dif cult
electrical problems. It's easy when you know how!

CONTINUE READING...

Intro Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7 Part 8

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