VEEJER ENTERPRISES, INC.

COMPUTER CONTROLLED
CRANKING CIRCUITS: PART 3
WHAT DO YOU TEST AND WHEN?
With all the new technology that captures a lot of our imagination and increases
our desire to learn more advanced electronics, essential electrical troubleshooting
techniques often fall by the wayside. That creates a lot of frustration in technicians
when they encounter an electrical problem that could be found with the same type
of electrical troubleshooting procedures that have proven to be successful through
the years. We simply cannot ignore these electrical troubleshooting techniques.
They will always be valid.

Below in gure 3-1 there is a cranking problem. For purposes of this training, let’s
say the starter motor doesn’t turn the engine over fast enough to allow the engine
to start running. Back in Part 2 we discussed how to measure the cranking voltage
and the cranking amps. Let’s also say that the cranking voltage did not drop as much
as expected and the cranking amps reading was lower than expected. The starter
motor is not drawing enough cranking amps to work properly and crank the engine
fast enough.

There is a problem with the battery supplying suf cient current to the starter
motor. This would be due to a bad connection or a corroded cable between the
battery and the starter motor which is best diagnosed by a voltage drop
measurement. You should remember that voltage drop tests must be performed
when electron current is owing, that is, the circuit is turned ON and operating to
some extent or not operating at all.
 Fig. 3-1 Testing the voltage drop of the B+ (voltage) side of the starter
motor circuit.

In Figure 3-1 the starter motor is engaged and electron current is owing. The
meter is shown measuring the Voltage drop of the voltage side (Vdvs) of the
cranking circuit. The red test lead connects to the battery positive post the black
lead touches the connection of the battery cable to the starter motor. This test
places the entire voltage side of the cranking circuit between the DMM test leads
and the reading obtained is the voltage dropped by all the cable and connections on
the voltage side of the cranking circuit.

A normal reading should be around 0.50V. The reading will be higher if the battery
positive cable is corroded or if the heavy-duty contacts in the starter solenoid are
corroded a signi cant voltage drop reading will be noted.

The greater the corrosion or deterioration in the starter solenoid heavy-duty

contacts the higher the voltage drop reading. If the voltage drop reading is battery
voltage (12V) then you have an OPEN (broken) connection between the battery
positive post and the positive terminal on the starter motor. Voltage drop testing is
the fastest way to nd any electrical circuit corrosion on the voltage side of the
cranking circuit.

(If you are interested in more training like this in voltage drop (Vd) testing we
suggest our book "Vehicle Electrical Troubleshooting SHORTCUTS", 250 pages of
electrical training with how-to-do-it exercises and work sheets.)
 Fig. 3-2 Testing the voltage drop of the B- (ground) side of the starter
motor circuit.

Move the DMM test leads by placing the black test lead on the battery negative
post in the red test lead touches the case of the starter motor.

This test places the entire ground side of the cranking circuit between the DMM
test leads and the reading obtained is the voltage dropped by all the cable and
connections on the ground side of the cranking circuit. A normal reading should be
around 0.10V. The reading will be higher if the battery negative cable and
connection is corroded or if the starter motor ground connection is corroded a
signi cant voltage drop reading will be noted. The greater the corrosion or
deterioration in the battery ground cable or the starter motor ground connection
the higher the voltage drop reading. This is the fastest way to nd any corrosion or
electrical connection on the ground side of the cranking circuit.

If the voltage drop reading is battery voltage (12V) then you have an OPEN
(broken) connection between the battery negative post and the ground terminal on
the starter motor. Voltage drop testing is the fastest way to nd any electrical
circuit corrosion on the ground side of the cranking circuit.

These two voltage drop measurements are simple to perform but remember the
starter motor has to be engaged for the bad connection or corroded cable to
produce a higher than normal voltage drop. The two voltage drop readings given
are what you can expect to nd on a new vehicle. As vehicles get older, these
“perfect” voltage drop readings will begin to rise slightly as cables and connections
begin to develop a little corrosion. You will nd that even as these two voltage drop
readings rise slightly that the vehicle cranks with no problem. With practice you will
come to learn how high the voltage drops can be before they affect the cranking
circuit.

PROBLEMS WITH THE STARTER SOLENOID

There are two simple voltage tests to perform if you have a situation where the
starter solenoid does not engage fully or is not engaged at all.

Fig. 3-3 Testing B+ voltage to the starter solenoid.

In Figure 3-3 the DMM measures the operating voltage (B+) to the starter solenoid
which is the cranking voltage, 10.21V. We are performing this test on a good starter
solenoid circuit to illustrate that a good DMM B+ reading to the solenoid is the
cranking voltage.

IF DMM READING IS LOW

The starter solenoid will be sluggish and may not close the heavy-duty contacts.
This could be due to a corroded connection tracing back through the START and
P/N switches and wiring through the Fuse F1. It could also be corroded contacts in
one or both of the START or P/N switches.

IF DMM READING IS 0.00V

The starter solenoid does not operate. There is an OPEN connection (broken) wire
going back through the START and P/N switches. Fuse F1 could be blown or is not
connected back to B+.

(If you are interested in more training like this to test voltages in a circuit and
tracing through the circuit to nd the location of an OPEN circuit or a voltage drop
we suggest our hands-on electrical training program, starting with The Starter Kit,
H-111A. You can watch a You Tube video. Type “H-111A vince” in the You Tube
search bar.)

Fig. 3-4 Testing the starter solenoid ground connection.

In Figure 3-4, the starter solenoid ground wire is connected to the outer case of the
starter motor. Electron current owing through the starter solenoid passes through
the case of the starter motor to energize the starter solenoid. This ground wire
could also be connected directly to sheet metal ground.

The DMM is measuring the ground voltage at the starter solenoid. The DMM
reading indicates .012V. The solenoid ground terminal should have a ground
voltage drop of 0.10V or less. We are performing this test on a good starter
solenoid circuit to illustrate what a good DMM reading should be.

IF THE READING IS HIGHER THAN 0.10V

The solenoid ground could be corroded or the wire is damage but not completely
broken.

IF THE READING IS 12V

The solenoid ground wire is broken or not connected to a good ground connection.
(Interested in more training like this to test voltage in a circuit and tracing through
the circuit to nd the location of an OPEN circuit or a voltage drop? We suggest our
hands-on electrical training program, starting with The Starter Kit, H-111A.

H 111A Automotive Electrical Troubleshooting…

Troubleshooting…

CONTINUE READING...

Intro Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7 Part 8

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