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 An Artistic Card Tray
Serving and card trays can be made very beautiful and artistic with
the use of butterflies, natural grasses, and the fluffy part taken from
the milkweed pod, formed to make a natural scene beneath the
glass bottom of the tray. If an old tray is to be used, remove the old
panel, or painting, beneath the glass bottom, and clean the glass
thoroughly. Lay it upside down on a flat table top and carefully place
on it a cluster of grass, or weeds, or some botanical specimens, that
are well dried. Arrange the dried butterflies in a natural way around
the grasses with their backs, or tops of the wings, facing out, or on
the glass.
The silky down of the milkweed seed, with the seed removed, is
used to cover the specimens and grass, which forms the most
delicate background possible. It is laid on quite thick at the bottom of
the scene, gradually thinning it toward the top. Be careful to see that
the fibers of the down are placed so that they will radiate from the
bottom of the grasses to the outer edges. A piece of white, pearl, or
gray cardboard is then placed on this background, and another glass
or board back is sealed tightly over the whole with glue or wax.—
Contributed by Joe V. Romig, Allentown, Pa.
 Deodorizing Lard Buckets
Lard buckets are the most easily obtained and the most
satisfactory of utensils in which to pack food, or cook for a small
picnic or camping party, but it is very difficult to remove the odor of
the lard. This may be easily accomplished by boiling the grounds
from the coffeepot in the bucket with about one pint of water.
 A Parlor Cue Alley
By C. QUINCY IVES

Parlor cue alley is really a game of bowling except that it is played

on a small raised board, and, instead of throwing the balls by
hand, an ordinary billiard cue is used, the balls being about 1¹⁄₄ in. in
diameter. The automatic feature of this new game saves the time
usually required to set up the pins, and assures that they will be set
absolutely true each time.

A Cue is Used to Shoot the Ball on This Alley

 The Alley Board with Its Attachments

To build this alley, first procure three planed boards, hard wood
preferred, though they are more difficult to work; two, 10 ft. long, 9 in.
wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and the other, 10 ft. long, 15 in. wide, and ¹⁄₂
in. thick. Place the first two boards side by side and fasten them with
cleats, the first cleat being placed 18 in. from the end to be used for
the pins. The cleats should be of ³⁄₈ or ⁷⁄₈-in. material and cut as long
as the upper board is wide, or 15 in. These are placed on top of the
lower boards, or between the two. By placing the first one 18 in. from
the end, clearance is obtained for the trap A. The other board is
placed on the cleats and fastened, after it has been centrally located,
with screws from the under side. The screws must not come through
or the surface of the upper board be marred in any way so that the
balls cannot roll freely. The difference in width of the lower board and
the upper one provides 1¹⁄₂-in. clearance on each side as grooves
for the return of the balls.
 Inclose the alley with boards, 3 in. wide and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, to the
point B, and from there around the pin end with boards, 6 in. wide.
The upper board should be cut to such a length that a space of 2 in.
at the end C will be provided. Into this space is fitted a block of
wood, about ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, having its upper surface slightly pitched
toward the sides of the alley to start the balls back to the front of the
board. From the ends of this block two strips, 1¹⁄₂ in. wide, are fitted
into the side grooves, from D to E, on an incline, to return the ball
after each shot.
The location of each pin is marked on the end of the upper board,
and small holes are drilled just large enough to admit pieces of stout
cord, like a fishline, to pass through freely. The pins are made of
hard wood, carefully balanced, so that one end will not be heavier
than the other. The lower end of each pin is drilled to make a recess,
F, in which the cord is fastened with a screw or nail. Holes are bored
through the bottom board, ³⁄₈ in. in diameter, to correspond to the 10
small holes made through the upper one. Lead weights of about 2
oz. are fitted in the holes and attached to the strings from the pins.
The ends of the weights should extend about ¹⁄₂ in. from the under
side of the alley.
Attach a board, 18 in. square, with hinges to the end of the alley
so that it will hang under the weights. A stout cord is run along the
under side of the alley to the front end through screw eyes, and
attached to the swinging board. By letting the board swing down the
weights are released and they draw the pins into a standing position,
accurately set for the next break. When set, the line is drawn, and
the swinging board pushes the weights up and releases the pins.
The balls used are made of hard wood, and, if it is not desirable to
make them, they can be purchased from a toy store. They are 1¹⁄₄ in.
in diameter. Each player has three shots. The ball is placed on the
spot G and shot with a billiard cue, the object being to knock down
as many pins as possible; the score is kept as in bowling.
Horses can be made of metal and wood, as shown, for holding the
alley at the proper height. The alley can be used on a large table, but
horses are more convenient.
 The Glass-and-Hat Trick
The effect of this trick is as follows: The performer first exhibits a
small table, about 2 ft. square, the top of which is covered with black
velvet. He requests the loan of a Derby hat and a handkerchief, then
takes an ordinary glass, filled with water, and places it on the table
top, covers it with the handkerchief, and sets the hat on top of the
glass. He then withdraws a short distance, and at a command, the
glass appears to pass slowly through both handkerchief and hat until
the hat rests on the table top. The hat is then taken up and is handed
to the owner, who finds the glass of water in the hat.
While this is seemingly impossible, the effect can be easily
accomplished and the necessary apparatus can be made up cheaply
if a table of suitable size can be had, although a kitchen table may
be used if so desired, but a table about 2 ft. square is preferred,
because it can be easily carried. The table is prepared as follows:
Procure a block of wood, about 2 in. square and 1¹⁄₂ in. thick, and
glue it to the under side of the table in the center. Bore a ¹⁄₄-in. hole
through both the table top and the block of wood. The top of the
table must be covered with some black cloth, such as velvet. Using
the hole bored as a center, cut out a piece of the table top to
correspond with the diameter of the glass to be used, and about ¹⁄₈
in. deep, fit into this depression a piece of round sheet brass.
Procure a ¹⁄₄-in. rod, about 6 in. long, and fasten the brass disk to the
end of it so that the disk will fit into the round depression when the
rod is run through the hole in the table top and block. The other, or
lower, end of the rod is filed flat, and a small hole is drilled through it,
the edges being smoothed to receive a thread. The top of the brass
disk is covered with the same material as is used for covering the
table top. This will make it appear to be one piece covering the table
top. Fasten a strong black thread to one corner of the table top on
the under side, and run it through the hole drilled through the end of
the rod, then over a small window-curtain roller fastened into the
opposite corner of the table top, where the thread is run down a table
leg and through another pulley out under a rug or the floor to an
assistant where the thread will not be seen. The metal disk can then
be controlled without any apparent power. If the rod extends under
the table too far, tape some velvet or fancy cloth around the table
edge to cover it.

Apparently the Glass Filled with Water Passes Up through the Crown of the
Hat and is Taken from it When the Trick is Completed
 To begin the trick, the performer exhibits the glass of water, then
sets it on the table just back of the disk, and in placing the borrowed
handkerchief it is put on the disk rather than the glass. As the
handkerchief is held in front of the glass the assistant pulls the disk
up; thus the handkerchief is placed on the disk and the glass of
water is left uncovered just behind it. The performer then starts to put
the borrowed hat on the glass, crown up, and when, seeing his
mistake, he apologizes, turns the hat over, and in doing so picks up
the glass of water and places it in the hat. The hat is then set on the
disk with the crown down. In turning the hat the glass is taken up
with the first two fingers of the right hand. When the hat is raised, the
glass is also raised with it, and while doing this the hat is slanted so
as to hide the glass. In turning the hat over, the glass is brought into
it. This is quite hard to explain, but a little practice will enable the
performer to make no mistake. When the hat is placed on the disk
the assistant slowly lets the disk down. It is very necessary to let the
hat down slowly, as a sudden jerk is apt to tumble the hat over and
spoil it as well as the trick. When the hat comes to rest on the table
top, it is removed and handed to the owner with the glass of water in
it.
 Wire-Mesh Support for Flower Centerpiece

Pansies, violets, or other short-stemmed flowers cannot easily be

shown to advantage in a table centerpiece unless properly
supported. By placing a frame of wire mesh in the dish, as shown in
the sketch, the stems of the flowers may be set in the openings,
giving a neat and effective display.—Victor Carpenter, South Bend,
Ind.
 False Bottom for Emptying Wastebasket

In order to avoid handling paper and other material which

sometimes sticks in a wastebasket, I arranged a false bottom in the
receptacle, as shown in the sketch. A hole was cut in the bottom of
the basket and a square board, nearly as large as the bottom, was
fitted over it, and a leather handle provided. The basket may be
emptied quickly by forcing out the false bottom, without the hands
touching the contents.—Harold Laughlin, Reading, Michigan.
 Making Use of Refrigerator in Winter

By fitting a 3-in. pipe into the lower part of a refrigerator so that a

draft of cool air from outdoors is available in cold weather, it may be
used without ice for a considerable part of the year. The top is left
open slightly, and a piece of cheesecloth is tied over the outside end
of the pipe, to prevent dust from entering. A tin shutter is placed on
the inside of the refrigerator to close the pipe in extremely cold
weather. This arrangement has proved quite satisfactory for the
winter storage of food.—R. R. Dowsley, Prescott, Canada.
 Inkwell Base Made from Fuse Socket

Workers in the munitions industry frequently devise small useful or

ornamental objects in imitation of, or from, discarded parts on which
they work. The inkwell shown in the sketch was made from a
rejected fuse socket of a shrapnel shell. It was fitted with a glass
container and fastened into a wooden base.
 Valve-Bottom Pail for Dipping Water

An ordinary pail may be converted into a convenient device for

dipping water by fitting a valve into the bottom, as shown in the
sketch. Fasten a piece of soft leather to the bottom of a block, 3 in.
square, and fix this to the bottom of the bucket by means of a small
hinge. By pushing the bucket bottom down into the water, the latter
rises up through the valve until the bucket is full. By lifting it the valve
is closed. This device fitted to a tall milk pail is especially convenient.
—R. S. Matzen, Fort Collins, Colo.
 A Shoe-Polishing Strop
It is awkward to shine one’s shoes with a long strip of cloth as is
done by a shoe shiner to produce a high polish. An effective
substitute method is to suspend from the wall a strip of cloth, about 5
in. wide, doubled to a length of 30 in., and rub the shoes on it before
putting them on.
 A Magic Cabinet
The performer calls the attention of his audience to a cabinet
mounted on short legs and having doors in the front, back, and top.
The back door is opened, then the top and front, and an arm is thrust
through to show that the cabinet is empty and without double doors
or double walls. The performer also puts his wand beneath the box
to show that there is no deception there. The doors are then closed,
except the top, and reaching down, he takes out any number of
articles, from handkerchiefs to rabbits, and then the front door is
opened to show the box is empty, but upon closing the front door
again, he is still able to produce articles until the supply is
exhausted. Wonderful though this trick may appear, it is very simple,
and if a person is handy with tools, it can be made from lumber taken
from a packing box.
To make the cabinet, nail together, in the shape of a rectangle, two
pieces, 16 in. long, 14 in. wide, and ¹⁄₂ in. thick, and two pieces 14 in.
square and ¹⁄₂ in. thick. To one of the latter pieces fasten four legs,
one at each corner. In the opposite piece, or the top, make an
opening in the center, 8 in. square. This opening is covered with a
door 8¹⁄₂ in. square, supplied with a knob to open it easily. A piece,
16 in. long and 14 in. wide, with an attached knob, is hinged to the
front, for a door; also another for the back hinged in the same
manner and with a knob. In the back there is a cutout made, 9 in.
long and 7 in. wide, in the center. In this opening a swinging box is
hung to hold the articles taken from the cabinet. The swinging box is
made of two pieces, 9 in. long and 7 in. wide, and two pieces about
¹⁄₂ in. larger each way, nailed together on ends, cut triangular. This
box is hinged in the opening so that it will swing in or out as desired
and show a panel on either side of the door. The front door should
have a panel nailed on each side of equal size, to make both doors
appear alike.
 After loading all the things desired to be shown in the triangular
box, start the trick by pushing this box into the cabinet and showing
the outside; then open the back, and in doing so, push the triangular
box out as the door swings back and away from the audience. This
shows that there is nothing to be seen but the panel. Open the front
door and top, and the cabinet will appear empty. Close both front
and back doors, and in making this change, push the triangular box
in, and begin to take the things out through the top door.

Open the Front Door and Top of the Cabinet and It will Appear Empty
 By careful construction the cabinet can be made so that the doors
will open freely and the triangular box swing easily so that it will not
be seen in operating it. With a clever performer this trick is without
an equal, as many variations can be made in the performance.
 Countersinking a Hole Smoothly
When a hole in a piece of steel, iron, or brass is being
countersunk, the drill usually chatters, making the countersink rough.
Where a smooth hole is required, it is best to make the countersink
first and drill the hole afterward. By doing so the hole will be perfectly
smooth.—Contributed by Chas. G. England, Washington, Pa.
 Receptacle for Shellac Varnish

A simple, inexpensive, and practical pot and cover for holding

shellac varnish in the pattern shop, or at home, is shown in the
sketch. It consists of a base made of wood having in the center a
counterbore into which a glass tumbler, or other container, is fitted.
For the cover an ordinary flowerpot is used, fitting down over a ring
on the base. An accumulation of shellac around the top cannot come
in contact with the cover. The brush extends through the hole in the
bottom of the flowerpot and is held suspended by means of a leather
washer resting on it.—Contributed by J. D. Roberts, Kenosha,
Wisconsin.