vol_13_Knowing the Imams The Hadith

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in that case boiled in it quickly for ten minutes before the chips are
added; and a part of these are pounded and stirred into the preserve
with the others. March is the proper month for making this preserve,
the Seville oranges being then in perfection. For lemon marmalade
proceed exactly in the same manner as for this.
Rinds of Seville oranges, lightly rasped and boiled tender, 2 lbs.;
pulp and juice, 4 lbs.; sugar, 6 lbs.: 1/2 hour. Or, weight of oranges,
first taken in sugar, and added, with all the rinds, to the pulp after the
whole has been properly prepared.
 GENUINE SCOTCH MARMALADE.

“Take some bitter oranges, and double their weight of sugar; cut
the rind of the fruit into quarters and peel it off, and if the marmalade
be not wanted very thick, take off some of the spongy white skin
inside the rind. Cut the chips as thin as possible, and about half an
inch long, and divide the pulp into small bits, removing carefully the
seeds, which may be steeped in part of the water that is to make the
marmalade, and which must be in the proportion of a quart to a
pound of fruit. Put the chips and pulp into a deep earthen dish, and
pour the water boiling over them; let them remain for twelve or
fourteen hours, and then turn the whole into the preserving-pan, and
boil it until the chips are perfectly tender. When they are so, add by
degrees the sugar (which should be previously pounded), and boil it
until it jellies. The water in which the seeds have been steeped, and
which must be taken from the quantity apportioned to the whole of
the preserve, should be poured into a hair-sieve, and the seeds well
worked in it with the back of a spoon; a strong clear jelly will be
obtained by this means, which must be washed off them by pouring
their own liquor through the sieve in small portions over them. This
must be added to the fruit when it is first set on the fire.”
Oranges, 3 lbs.; water, 3 quarts; sugar, 6 lbs.
Obs.—This receipt, which we have not tried ourselves, is
guaranteed as an excellent one by the Scottish lady from whom it
was procured.
 CLEAR ORANGE MARMALADE.

(Author’s Receipt.)
This, especially for persons in delicate health, is far more
wholesome than the marmalade which contains chips of the orange-
rinds. The fruit must be prepared in the same manner, and the pulp
very carefully cleared from the pips and skin. The rinds taken off in
quarters (after having been washed and wiped quite clean from the
black soil which is sometimes found on them), must be boiled
extremely tender in a large quantity of water, into which they may be
thrown when it boils. They should be well drained upon a large hair
sieve reversed, so soon as the head of a pin will pierce them easily;
and the white skin and fibres should be scraped entirely from them
while they are still warm. They should then be pounded to a paste,
and well blended with the pulp and juice, these being added to them
by degrees, that they may not remain in lumps. A quarter of a pint of
water, in which the seeds have been immersed for an hour or two,
well worked up with them, and then passed through a net
strainer[169] or coarse sieve, will soften the flavour of the
marmalade, and assist its jellying at the same time. Boil it rather
quickly without sugar for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, then
finish it by the directions for “Orange Marmalade, Portuguese
Receipt,” of the preceding page, but regulate the proportion of sugar
and the time of boiling as follows:—
169. Strainers of coarse bobbin-net, which is very cheap, are preferable to muslin
for preparations which are jellied, as the water becomes thick when the
orange-seeds are steeped in it.

Pulp and juice of Seville oranges, 1-1/2 lb.; water strained from
pips, 1/2 pint; pounded orange-rinds 3/4 lb.: 15 to 20 minutes. Sugar,
2-3/4 lb. (3 lb. if the fruit should be very acid), half added first, 10 to
15 minutes; with remaining half, 15 to 20 minutes, or until the
marmalade becomes quite thick and clear.
Obs.—We have occasionally had more water than the proportion
given above used in making this preserve, which is very nice in
flavour, but which may be made to suit various tastes by adding a
larger or smaller quantity of the rinds; and a larger weight of sugar
when it is liked very sweet. When the bitterness of the fruit is
objected to, the rinds may be steeped for a night in a plentiful
quantity of spring water.
 FINE JELLY OF SEVILLE ORANGES.

(Author’s Original Receipt.)

Although we have appropriated this receipt to another work, we
cannot refrain from inserting it here as well, so delicious to our taste
is the jelly which we have had made by it. For eighteen full-sized
oranges allow a pint and a half of water. Take off the rinds in quarters
from ten of them, and then free them entirely from their tough white
skin, and with a sharp knife cut them into rather thick slices, and put
them with all the pips into the water. Halve the remainder of the fruit
without paring it, and squeeze the juice and pips, but not the pulp, to
the sliced oranges; and place them by the fire in an enamelled
stewpan which they will not more than two-thirds fill. Heat and boil
them gently between twenty and thirty minutes, then strain the juice
closely from them without pressure, through a large square of muslin
folded in four, or, if more convenient, pass it first through a very thin
and delicately clean cloth, and afterwards through the folded muslin.
Weigh and boil it quickly for five minutes; then for each pound stir
gradually to it fourteen ounces of highly refined sugar, broken small
or roughly powdered; and when it is quite dissolved, continue the
boiling for a few minutes longer, when the preserve will jelly easily
and firmly, and be pale and beautifully transparent, and most
agreeable in flavour.
Seville oranges, 18; of which 10 pared and sliced. Water, 1-1/2
pint, and juice of 8 oranges: gently heated and boiled 20 to 30
minutes. Juice boiled quickly 5 minutes. To each lb. 14 oz. sugar: 5
to 8 minutes.
Obs.—On our second trial we had the very thin rind of three of the
oranges stewed with the fruit, which we thought an improvement.
The jelly in both instances was made, we believe, in April, when the
fruit was fully ripe: earlier in the season it would probably require
longer boiling. On one occasion it became quite firm very quickly
after the sugar was added to the juice; that is to say, in three or four
minutes.
CHAPTER XXV.

Pickles.

Mango.
 OBSERVATIONS ON PICKLES.

With the exception of walnuts,[170] which, when softened by

keeping, or by the mode of preparing them, are the least
objectionable of any pickle, with Indian mangoes, and one or two
other varieties, these are not very wholesome articles of diet,[171]
consisting, as so many of them do, of crude hard vegetables, or of
unripe fruit. In numerous instances, too, those which are commonly
sold to the public have been found of so deadly a nature as to be
eminently dangerous to persons who partake of them often and
largely. It is most desirable, therefore, to have them prepared at
home, and with good genuine vinegar, whether French or English.
That which is home-made can at least be relied on; and it may be
made of excellent quality and of sufficient strength for all ordinary
purposes. The superiority of French vinegar results from its being
made of wine; no substitute producing any equal to that derived from
the unmixed juice of the grape. In our next page will be found the
address of the importers, from whom, or whose agents, we have for
several years been supplied with it.
170. The bitter of the green walnut renders it a fine stomachic. In France a liqueur
called “Ratifia de Brou de Noix,” is made by infusing the bruised fruit in
brandy.

171. Flavoured vinegars or mustard are more so, and are equally appetising and
pungent.
Pickles should always be kept quite covered with their liquor, and
well secured from the air and from the influence of damp; the last of
which is especially detrimental to them. We can quite recommend to
the reader the rather limited number of receipts which follow, and
which might easily be multiplied did the size of our volume permit.
Pickling is so easy a process, however, that when in any degree
properly acquired, it may be extended to almost every kind of fruit
and vegetable successfully. A few of the choicer kinds will
nevertheless be found generally more acceptable than a greater
variety of inferior preparations. Mushrooms, gherkins, walnuts,
lemons, eschalots, and peaches, for all of which we have given
minute directions, will furnish as much choice as is commonly
required. Very excellent Indian mangoes too may be purchased at
the Italian warehouses, and to many tastes will be more acceptable
than any English pickle. We have had them very good from Mr.
Cobbett, 18, Pall Mall, whose house we have already had occasion
to name more than once.
 TO PICKLE CHERRIES.

Leave about an inch of their stalks on some fine, sound Kentish or

Flemish cherries, which are not over ripe; put them into a jar, cover
them with cold vinegar, and let them stand for three weeks; pour off
two-thirds of the liquor and replace it with fresh vinegar; then, after
having drained it from the fruit, boil the whole with an ounce of
coriander seed, a small blade of mace, a few grains of cayenne, or a
teaspoonful of white peppercorns, and four bruised cochineals to
every quart, all tied loosely in a fold of muslin. Let the pickle become
quite cold before it is added to the cherries: in a month they will be fit
for use. The vinegar which is poured from the fruit makes a good
syrup of itself, when boiled with a pound of sugar to the pint, but it is
improved by having some fresh raspberries, cherries, or currants
previously infused in it for three or four days.
 TO PICKLE GHERKINS.

Let the gherkins be gathered on a dry day, before the frost has
touched them; take off the blossoms, put them into a stone jar, and
pour over them sufficient boiling brine to cover them well. The
following day take them out, wipe them singly, lay them into a clean
stone jar, with a dozen bay leaves over them, and pour upon them
the following pickle, when it is boiling fast: as much vinegar as will
more than cover the gherkins by an inch or two, with an ounce and a
quarter of salt, a quarter-ounce of black peppercorns, an ounce and
a half of ginger sliced, or slightly bruised, and two small blades of
mace to every quart; put a plate over the jar, and leave it for two
days, then drain off the vinegar, and heat it afresh; when it boils,
throw in the gherkins, and keep them just on the point of simmering
for two or three minutes; pour the whole back into the jar, put the
plate again upon it, and let it remain until the pickle is quite cold,
when a skin, or two separate folds of thick brown paper, must be tied
closely over it. The gherkins thus pickled are very crisp, and
excellent in flavour, and the colour is sufficiently good to satisfy the
prudent housekeeper, to whom the brilliant and poisonous green
produced by boiling the vinegar in a brass skillet (a process
constantly recommended in books of cookery) is anything but
attractive. To satisfy ourselves of the effect produced by the action of
the acid on the metal, we had a few gherkins thrown into some
vinegar which was boiling in a brass pan, and nothing could be more
beautiful than the colour which they almost immediately exhibited.
We fear this dangerous method is too often resorted to in preparing
pickles for sale.
Brine to pour on gherkins:—6 oz. salt to each quart water: 24
hours. Pickle:—to each quart vinegar, salt, 1-1/4 oz.; black
peppercorns, 1/4 oz.; ginger, sliced or bruised, 1-1/2 oz.; mace, 2
small blades; bay leaves; 24 to 100 gherkins, more when the flavour
is liked: 2 days. Gherkins simmered in vinegar, 2 to 3 minutes.
Obs.—The quantity of vinegar required to cover the gherkins will
be shown by that of the brine: so much depends upon their size, that
it is impossible to direct the measure exactly. A larger proportion of
spice can be added at pleasure.
 TO PICKLE GHERKINS.

(A French Receipt.)

Brush or wipe the gherkins very clean, throw them into plenty of
fast-boiling water, and give them a single boil, take them out quickly,
and throw them immediately into a large quantity of very cold water;
change it once, and when the gherkins themselves are quite cold,
drain them well, spread them on sieves or dishes, and dry them in
the air. When this is done, put them into stone jars, and pour on
them as much boiling vinegar as will cover them well; heat it anew,
and pour it on them again the following day; and on the next throw
them into it for a minute so soon as it boils, with plenty of tarragon in
branches, a few very small silver onions, and salt and whole pepper
in the same proportions as in the receipt above. It should be
observed that the French vinegar, from its superior excellence, will
have a very different effect, in many preparations, to that which is
made up for sale generally in England.[172]
172. We have already spoken in Chapter VI. of the very superior Vinaigre de
Bordeaux so largely imported by the Messrs. Kent and Sons, of Upton-on-
Severn, and sold by their agents in almost every town in England. It may be
procured in small quantities (bottled) of Mr. Metcalfe, Foreign Warehouse,
Southampton Row, London, and of other agents, whose names may easily
be known by applying to the Messrs. Kent themselves.
 TO PICKLE PEACHES, AND PEACH MANGOES.

Take, at their full growth, just before they begin to ripen, six large
or eight moderate-sized peaches; wipe the down from them, and put
them into brine that will float an egg. In three days let them be taken
out, and drained on a sieve reversed for several hours. Boil in a
quart of vinegar for ten minutes two ounces of whole white pepper,
two of ginger slightly bruised, a teaspoonful of salt, two blades of
mace, half a pound of mustard-seed, and a half-teaspoonful of
cayenne tied in a bit of muslin. Lay the peaches into a jar, and pour
the boiling pickle on them: in two months they will be fit for use.
Peaches, 6 or 8: in brine three days. Vinegar, 1 quart; whole white
pepper, 2 oz.; bruised ginger, 2 oz.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; mace, 2
blades; mustard-seed, 1/2 lb.: 10 minutes.
Obs.—The peaches may be converted into excellent mangoes by
cutting out from the stalk-end of each, a round of sufficient size to
allow the stone to be extracted: this should be done after they are
taken from the brine. They may be filled with very fresh mustard-
seed, previously washed in a little vinegar; to this a small portion of
garlic, or bruised eschalots, cayenne, horseradish, chilies (the most
appropriate of any), or spice of any kind may be added, to the taste.
The part cut out must be replaced, and secured with a packthread
crossed over the fruit.
 SWEET PICKLE OF MELON. (FOREIGN RECEIPT.)

(To serve with Roast Meat.)

Take, within three or four days of their being fully ripe, one or two
well-flavoured melons; just pare off the outer rind, clear them from
the seeds, and cut them into slices of about half an inch thick; lay
them into good vinegar, and let them remain in it for ten days; then
cover them with cold fresh vinegar, and simmer them very gently
until they are tender. Lift them on to a sieve reversed, to drain, and
when they are quite cold stick a couple of cloves into each slice, lay
them into a jar (a glass one, if at hand) and cover them well with cold
syrup, made with ten ounces of sugar to the pint of water, boiled
quickly together for twenty minutes. In about a week take them from
the syrup, let it drain from them a little, then put them into jars in
which they are to be stored, and cover them again thoroughly with
good vinegar, which has been boiled for an instant, and left to
become quite cold before it is added to them.
This pickle is intended to be served more particularly with roast
mutton, hare, and venison, instead of currant jelly, but it is very good
with stewed meat also. Small blades of cinnamon, and a larger
proportion of cloves are sometimes stuck into the melon, but their
flavour should not prevail too strongly. We have found the receipt
answer extremely well as we have given it, when tried with small
green melons, cut within four days of being fit for table.
Melons not quite ripe, pared from hard rind and sliced, 1 or 2: in
vinegar 10 days. Simmered in it until tender. In syrup 6 to 7 days. In
fresh vinegar to remain. Ready to serve in a month.
A Common Sweet Pickle of Melon.—Prepare the fruit as above. In
a fortnight simmer it until tender; drain, and lay it into jars, and pour
on it while just warm, a pickle made with a pound and two ounces of
coarse brown sugar, twenty cloves, and half a drachm of cinnamon
to the pint of vinegar, boiled together for ten minutes.
 TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS.

Select for this purpose the smallest buttons of the wild meadow
mushrooms, in preference to those which are artificially raised, and
let them be as freshly gathered as possible. Cut the stems off quite
close, and clean them with a bit of new flannel slightly moistened,
and dipped into fine salt; throw them as they are done into plenty of
spring-water, mixed with a large spoonful of salt, but drain them from
it quickly afterwards, and lay them into a soft cloth to dry, or the
moisture which hangs about them will too much weaken the pickle.
For each quart of the mushrooms thus prepared, take nearly a quart
of the palest white wine vinegar (this is far superior to the distilled
vinegar generally used for the purpose, and the variation in the
colour of the mushrooms will be very slight), and add to it a heaped
teaspoonful of salt, half an ounce of whole white pepper, an ounce of
ginger, sliced or slightly bruised, about the fourth of a saltspoonful of
cayenne tied in a small bit of muslin, and two large blades of mace:
to these may be added half a small nutmeg, sliced, but too much
spice will entirely overpower the fine natural flavour of the
mushrooms. When the pickle boils throw them in, and boil them in it
over a clear fire moderately fast from six to nine minutes, or
somewhat longer, should they not be very small. When they are
much disproportioned in size, the larger ones should have two
minutes boil before the others are thrown into the vinegar. As soon
as they are tolerably tender, put them at once into small stone jars,
or into warm wide-necked bottles, and divide the spice equally
amongst them. The following day, or as soon as they are perfectly
cold, secure them from the air with large corks, or tie skins and
paper over them. They should be stored in a dry place, and guarded
from severe frost. When the colour of the mushrooms is more
considered than the excellence of the pickle, the distilled vinegar can
be used for it. The reader may rely upon this receipt as a really good
one; we have had it many times proved, and it is altogether our own.
Mushroom buttons (without the stems), 2 quarts; palest white wine
vinegar, short 1/2 gallon; salt, large dessertspoonful, or 1-1/2 oz.;
white peppercorns, 1 oz.; whole ginger, 2 oz.; cayenne, small 1/2
saltspoonful; 1 small nutmeg.
 MUSHROOMS IN BRINE.

For Winter Use. (Very Good.)

We have had small mushroom-buttons excellently preserved
through the winter prepared as follows, and we therefore give the
exact proportions which we had used for them, though the same
quantity of brine would possibly allow of rather more mushrooms in
it. Prepare them exactly as for the preceding pickle, and measure
them after the stems are taken off. For each quart, boil together for
five minutes two quarts of water, with half a pound of common white
salt, a small dessertspoonful of white peppercorns, a couple of
blades of mace, and a race of ginger; take off the scum thoroughly,
and throw in the mushrooms; boil them gently for about five minutes,
then put them into well-warmed, wide-necked bottles, and let them
become perfectly cold; pour a little good salad-oil on the top, cork
them with new corks, and tie bladder over, or cover them with two
separate bladders. When wanted for use, soak the mushrooms in
warm water until the brine is sufficiently extracted.
Mushrooms, 1 quart; water, 1/2 gallon; salt, 1/2 lb.; peppercorns, 1
small dessertspoonful; mace, 2 blades; ginger, 1 race: 5 minutes.
Mushrooms, in brine: 5 minutes.
 TO PICKLE WALNUTS.

The walnuts for this pickle must be gathered while a pin can pierce
them easily, for when once the shell can be felt, they have ceased to
be in a proper state for it. Make sufficient brine to cover them well,
with six ounces of salt to the quart of water; take off the scum, which
will rise to the surface as the salt dissolves, throw in the walnuts, and
stir them night and morning; change the brine every three days, and
if they are wanted for immediate eating, leave them in it for twelve
days; otherwise, drain them from it in nine, spread them on dishes,
and let them remain exposed to the air until they become black: this
will be in twelve hours, or less. Make a pickle for them with
something more than half a gallon of vinegar to the hundred, a
teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of black pepper, three of bruised
ginger, a drachm of mace, and from a quarter to half an ounce of
cloves (of which some may be stuck into three or four small onions),
and four ounces of mustard-seed. Boil the whole of these together
for about five minutes; have the walnuts ready in a stone jar or jars,
and pour it on them as it is taken from the fire. When the pickle is
quite cold, cover the jar securely, and store it in a dry place. Keep
the walnuts always well covered with vinegar, and boil that which is
added to them.
Walnuts, 100; in brine made with 12 oz. salt to 2 quarts water, and
changed twice or more, 9 or 12 days. Vinegar, full 1/2 gallon; salt, 1
teaspoonful; whole black pepper, 2 oz.; ginger, 3 oz.; mace, 1
drachm; cloves, 1/4 to 1/2 oz.; small onions, 4 to 6; mustard-seed, 4
oz.: 5 minutes.
 TO PICKLE BEET-ROOT.

Boil the beet-root tender by the directions of page 329, and when it
is quite cold, pare and slice it; put it into a jar, and cover it with
vinegar previously boiled and allowed to become again perfectly
cold: it will soon be ready for use. It is excellent when merely
covered with chili vinegar. A few small shalots may be boiled in the
pickle for it when their flavour is liked. Carrots boiled tolerably tender
in salt and water may be prepared by this receipt with or without the
addition of the shalots, or with a few very small silver onions, which
should be boiled for a minute or two in the pickle: this should be
poured hot on the carrots.
To each quart of vinegar, salt, 1 teaspoonful; cayenne tied in
muslin, 1/2 saltspoonful, or white peppercorns, 1/2 to whole oz.