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West, and the man who is fair may count on men until they drop; but
these same men speak their minds freely, and it is hard for them to
change czars. Old traditions were restored; the cook quit in a flame
of anger, leaving as his vengeance a last meal garnished with a
defunct mouse. The pot boiled fifteen hours the day.
When the thing had become a trifle too thick for me, like a flash from
the blue came an unsought, unexpected telegram:—“will you
accept appointment superintendent moqui salary eighteen
hundred bond thirty thousand wire.”
A courteous expression that is now rare: “Will you accept.” The mere
transposition of a word makes all the difference. “You will accept” is
the tone of recent orders—a reaction of the great war against
Prussianism on those who reject with an unctuous civilian horror all
idea of militarism.
And yet there is a certain fine discipline and training in the military
atmosphere, even a copy of it, as practised at the properly
conducted schools and agencies of the farther deserts. One learns
to obey in unpleasant things, and feels something of duty and loyalty
in acceding. Where there is nothing of civilization for one hundred
miles in any direction, not even a telegraph wire, one comes to
revere that refreshing bit of bravery, the Flag, whipping above trees,
a symbol of authority and [98]order; one thrills at the music of the
band; and bugle-calls, in the wine of seven thousand feet above the
sea, add a character-forming stimulation: reveille, mess, retreat, or at
the end of a long day’s drive homeward in the dark, cramped and
cold from fifty miles, to hear the solemn notes of “taps.”
The night hush of the drowsy desert has succeeded all daylight
bustle. The clatter of shops, the hum of machinery, the hiss of steam,
have quieted. There are no more calls from children at play. One by
one the lamps go out on campus and in quarters, and great Orion
burns down the empty spaces to glimpse a scrap of feeble
civilization gripped in the aged everlasting hills. Then, on the cold
wind, stealthily, comes the eerie chant of a Navajo, riding across the
mesa, calling on his gods.
That was the country of the Buttes and craggy mesas; of Old Oraibi;
of the Second Mesa and its broad stairway to the dome-like pueblos;
of ancient Walpi and its rocky ladder to the sky; the land of ruins
dating from the misty dawn of history. Across it the Spaniards had
marched, contemporaries of Columbus, their halberds gleaming in
the sun; and there the early padres had ruled, their mission bells
now silent. The “provinces of the Mohoce or Mohoqui,” as Coronado
bade his poet-historian write it down. It was the very heart of the
Enchanted Empire.
A combined Indian Agency, half Hopi, half Navajo, and the two
ancient enemies who fraternized on the surface when the Agent was
strong enough to compel it. Ninety miles back in the hills. No
telephone and no telegraph. And agents averaged about two years
each of service. What happened to them? I wondered. Were they
buried there, quietly and without fuss, or did they depart between
suns, seeking more peaceful climes? The padres were not an
excellent vision, and the Spaniards had abandoned the country as
hopeless, notwithstanding their usual methods of domination. True—
there was such a thing as having a chap on for the good of his soul,
after the manner of whimsical Arizona.
[101]
[Contents]
X
THE PROVINCES OF THE “MOHOCE OR MOHOQUI”
It now remains for me to tell about this city and kingdom
and province, of which the Father Provincial gave your
Lordship an account. In brief, I can assure you in reality
he has not told the truth in a single thing that he said, but
everything is the reverse of what he said, except the
name of the city and the large stone houses.—Don
Francisco Vasquez Coronado to Don Antonio de
Mendoza, First Viceroy of New Spain, August 3, 1540
I am now glad that I went to the Painted Desert and entered Hopi-land before
the advent of the automobile. The going then was a picturesque if toilsome
journey. After two days in a farm-wagon loaded with my plunder, I reached the
first back-country trading-post, and met the official I was to succeed. That old
store at Indian Wells, with its back against the hills, seemed a fanciful place in
the twilight of a summer’s day. Across a wide plain lifted purple mesas gashed
with red clays, and Rabbit-ear Butte stuck its two inquisitive peaks into the
evening sky. There was something far removed in the atmosphere and setting of
Indian Wells, something of true desert solitude.
Next day we wended northward across Hauke Mesa, passing the White Cone, a
solitary bleached-out pyramid that marks the southeast corner of the Hopi
Reservation. Two huge white horses drew us; not a very fast pace, but decidedly
a sure one. The vehicle was a mountain spring-wagon, [102]and its one wide seat
served three of us, the driver and I simple figures in comparison with the
gentleman I was to relieve. He was a large, pompous man, who had sought the
Southwest for his health and had not found all of it, principally because he had
not arrived soon enough, and also because he was continually fretted by the
vision of his former importance. He had come from the East from a much larger
Governmental position. In fact, he had been quite within the shadow of the
Cabinet, and was bulwarked with political tradition. He knew the President
personally, and immediately told one so; and when he came into the Desert he
wore—Suffering Pioneers!—a top hat.
It takes a long time to make forty miles in a wagon of that type, whatever the
entertainment of political conventions and presidential anecdotes.
In late afternoon we crossed the sandy waste of the Jedito Wash, and passed
out of it by a steep rocky road that ascended a high mesa. A short distance to
the left were the ruins of Awatobi, that once important pueblo of Tusayan, where
Tovar had his first view of and encounter with the “Mohoce or Mohoqui” of the
Spanish chronicles. This meeting occurred twenty-five years before the
settlement of St. Augustine, and eighty years before the gentlemen from
Plymouth reached the historic New England Rock. He was accompanied by that
intrepid soldier-priest, Fray Juan de Padilla, who later retraced Coronado’s trail
into the mysterious and legendary country of Quivira, there to be martyred, the
first white man to meet death in the present State of Kansas.
A little later came Cardenas, searching for the great cañon of the West; and
Espejo in 1583; and then Onate in 1598, who was the first to make permanent
settlements among the Pueblo Indians. It was Onate who established the
missions, and one was built at Awatobi between 1621 and 1630, so Fray Alonzo
de Benavides, the first custodian of missions in these provinces of New Spain,
reported to his King.
Before the founding of Boston by Winthrop, when Charles I was King of England
and Laud was Archbishop of Canterbury, a Franciscan friar named Porras
ministered to the Hopi in the Tusayan provinces. In June 1633 he died there by
poison. In this same year Galileo appeared before the Inquisition. Strange
contrasts!
When the great Pueblo rebellion occurred in 1680, the mission at Awatobi was
destroyed by the Hopi, and its friar, Fray José de Figueroa, was killed. 1 When
came De Vargas, bent on reconquering the Pueblo people, he halted before
Awatobi on November 19, 1692. The friars [104]planned a return to their duties
among the Hopi, and it would appear that the Awatobans, or a part of them,
received these advances. Because of this the pueblo of Awatobi was suddenly
destroyed in the latter part of 1700 by pagan Hopi from the other mesas. It is
said that many of the warriors were stifled in the ceremonial kivas, and the
women and children were carried off as captives. During the early years of the
eighteenth century, Spanish officials and priests still contemplated a return to
this territory, but the efforts were abortive, although as late as 1748 friars visited
the Second Mesa country to return fugitive Indians of the Pueblos proper to their
homes in the valley of the Rio Grande. Most of these were Sandias, the remnant
of this band now living close to Albuquerque, New Mexico; and when I took
charge of the Pueblo Indians in 1919, the Sandias above all others evidenced
characteristics that were not new to one who had sat in council with their ancient
hosts.
In 1911 only a series of low walls, the pueblo foundations, were discernible at
Awatobi. The place of the old Spanish mission could not be determined. The
blowing desert sand had quite nearly reclaimed the site to solitude and unbroken
sterility. But following the sacred customs of their forefathers, the Hopi were still
making trouble for their guardians.
I became more familiar with mesa trails thereafter, but this first one was a thrill.
Sand had blown into the road, and the wheels crunched through it, and the
brakes ground and screeched against the tires. [106]
“When the troops were here last,” said the driver cheerfully, “a pack-mule went
over at this place, and he rolled until he fetched up against the bottom.”
“And there is your Agency,” said the official, pointing. “You can see as far as you
like from that place, if you look straight up.”
Below in the great gash were the buildings of the plant, gray, lonely-looking,
standing in barren grounds; but large as they were, the rocky walls of the cañon
dwarfed them. So clear was the air that they appeared as toy houses, cut-outs
pasted on a strip of pebbled cardboard. There was a straight line of them, for the
cañon, generous enough in other dimensions, had not room for grouping at its
bottom. It was a rough trough hewn by quake and flood. For centuries the
waters had torn at it, until their bed was now far below the site of the buildings;
and for centuries the sand had drifted in to form rounded domes that buttressed
the walls. Each season’s tremors disturbed the shattered rocks, sending some to
the bottom in tearing, grinding slides and posing others at new angles.
HOPI INDIAN AGENCY AT KEAMS CAÑON
Why build in such a place? The answer is that stereotyped one affecting
everything in the Desert—water. At the upper end of this cañon lived the springs.
Water could be brought to the site without great expense. There was enough to
furnish a small settlement, and more than could have been harnessed cheaply
at any other point of the territory when the plant was built. Water in greater
quantity has been discovered since; but there were no “water-witches” in the
provinces of the Mohoqui prior to 1910.
All that day the thunder had muttered sullenly, and occasionally a few drops of
rain had fallen on us. It was too early in the year to expect a shower of any
consequence, so my guides told me. It was June, and the red-bellied clouds that
the Snake priests watch for do not appear until late August, when they herald
the Snake Dance and prove Hopi wisdom; then cloudbursts send torrents
through these cañons, and flood the plains, and guarantee the harvest. But, just
as we drove up the main road, came a sharp downpour that settled into a rare
thing indeed—a steady summer rain.
The Agency consisted of an office and quarters and shops for the clerks,
farmers, and mechanics, and there was a school for about one hundred and fifty
pupils of the grammar grades. This was a boarding-school and, in addition to
teachers, it had a corps of cooks, matrons, [108]laundress, and seamstress, all
necessary to the work. In the field, close to the pueblos of the Indians, were five
day-schools, serving from fifty to one hundred and twenty children each, and
stations for physicians, field-nurses, and range men. Therefore the equipment,
furniture, and stores of six small settlements had to be inventoried and receipted
for at any change of directors.
The outgoing Agent was anxious to have his papers signed, that he might be off
to his next post in further search of health. For two weeks we labored over those
accounts, and it seemed that it would require another three months—as it did—
to adjust and compare and reduce them to something approximating accuracy.
So the major part of it was arranged conditionally between us, and I filed my
official signature, together with bond for thirty thousand dollars, and we two
shook hands as cordially as it was possible for men to do who had been
debating for a fortnight.
In this manner I became Indian Agent for twenty-two hundred Hopi Indians of
the Pueblo stock—maligned under a stupid Departmental label as “Moqui”—who
would call me “Moungwi”; and for a trifle more of Navajo, the nomads of the
desert, who would title me “Nahtahni,” very likely Nahtahni Yezzi, meaning Little
Chief. They had undoubtedly named my predecessor Nahtahni Tso, Fat Chief.
Some of this waste had been the result of stupid ordering, while much of it grew
from the system of yearly contracts, neither of which has changed unto this day.
Smith furnishes wagons one year, by virtue of being the lowest bidder, and one
must have Smith’s repair-parts. Next year Brown has the contract, again by
virtue of being the lowest and therefore cheapest bidder; and part of Smith’s
material is a dead loss to the Service.
The technical names that came across Kansas with our forefathers had not
changed. “Eveners” and “whiffle-trees” [110]were recognized; but double and
swingle-trees were taboo.
And there were things that even the Westerners’ Bible could not define.
Apparently no one ever wrote to Montgomery Ward for “crandalls” or “loop-
sticks.” Sometimes Funk and Wagnall’s New Standard Dictionary helped to an
explanation, and at other times the Encyclopædia Britannica shed light down the
ages to identify an article. It was like examining and listing the contents of
Tutankhamen’s tomb, and we believed that the mummy of the original Indian
Agent would be discovered in the depths of those cluttered warehouse-shrines.
quite so—there were shoes, men’s, women’s, misses’, boys’, youths’ and
children’s, each divided into two sorts: Sunday and everyday; twelve
classifications, and all counted and all charged. There were boxes of sealing-
wax, and cobblers’ wax, and beeswax, in quantity; and in the attenuated garden,
irrigated by the hand-bucket method, grew something resembling cabbages
where free Congressional seeds had been planted. There were no ships of the
keel variety; it was too dry—even the fish carried canteens; but there were
burros, those pack-ships of the Desert, that cheerfully doubled as “Arizona
nightingales.” And there was one official king, who, if he did not find that crandall
the smith had made in 1893, would have months of explaining to those who did
not know then, and do not know now, what a crandall is.
At the same time the employees of the station were existing in pasteboard
cottages designed for the climate of Southern California, and winter at that
altitude—[111]6600 feet—would bring many nights below zero. One couple lived
in a tent heated by a sheet-iron stove; the miner lodged in a cupboard, and the
chief mechanic’s family occupied a cellar. They were all, according to the Civil
Service announcements, entitled to “quarters,” and did they not have them?
The returns were received as well from all the field points. Election night in the
editorial rooms is but one night. After thirty days of this, I felt myself going mad;
so I started forth to view the domain.
Having had but little experience in the handling of horses, I selected one of my
Indian interpreters for Jehu, and so he proved. My idea was that an Indian not
only would be a thorough horseman, but would possess the rare faculty of
driving equally well after dark. The Indian has the eye of the eagle, say the
books, and so on; and those winding, narrow, switchback roads did not invite me
after nightfall. Sure enough, my first return to the cañon was made in pitch
blackness; but I lolled in the buggy, well wrapped-up, enjoying a feeling of
perfect security. An excellent thing to have an eagle’s eye, I thought—when
suddenly the world tipped and heaved. There was a moment of crashing
confusion and complete chaos. The lines and my Indian driver and I were all on
the floor of the buggy together, hopelessly mixed and entangled in the blankets
and foot-brake and nose-bags and halters. The vehicle had pitched forward, and
seemed to have climbed on to the backs of the struggling horses. Jehu had
driven over a six foot bank into an arroyo. Fortunately, the team had taken it
straight over, without swerving and, fortunately too, those arroyo banks are of
crumbling sand.
“What in the blankety-blank did you do that for?” I cried at the dazed Indian who,
like myself, was very much numbed and scared. “Where were your eyes?
Couldn’t you see the crossing to the left?”
“I can’t see in this dark—never pretended to; but you—you’re an Indian, and—”
“Indian eyes no different from white man’s!” he announced in his defense, and
with complete composure. “I can’t see in the dark, either.”
All the duties relating to the Moqui schools, Agency, and the Indians contiguous
thereto, are hereby devolved upon you as Superintendent.
I remember one particularly worthless Civil Service [114]employee who once said
to me: “But, Mr. Crane, you take these matters too seriously.”
It was necessary for me to cancel his engagement shortly thereafter. I did this
abruptly, for he had shown a strong tendency to go off to sleep at the scales. He
then emitted another philosophical remark, worthy of a Civil Service employee:
—
Now one does not have to take the thing seriously. I have followed several
Agents who did not. But there is no traditional “George” in the Arizona Desert,
and the Agent can always be found. He is the official goat, tagged, manacled,
bonded. He may not leave his jurisdiction for longer than one week without
having procured special permission; and when he goes, the work continues in
the hands of irresponsibles under his responsibility and his bond. I spent several
evenings with the little book of regulations, and answered my own queries.
He is1.the Disbursing Officer for all activities, and will expend $100,000 or
more yearly, the reserve’s allotment of funds, without including the moneys
of individual Indians that may be deposited with him.
He directs
2. a corps of employees, persons procured from the Civil Service
grab-bag (persons he does not select), a gregarious and vagarious outfit,
consisting of physicians, nurses, stockmen, farmers or rangemen,
mechanics, teachers; and he often coöperates with the Irrigation or other
services and their corps. [115]
When3.there is construction work of any kind, from quarters and schools to
roads and bridges, he often designs these things, always passes on the
efficiency, and nearly always directs the actual work.
As Chief
4. Health Officer, he should know enough to advise and support the
physicians, who require more of direction and guidance than one would
imagine; and among the Indians he is in great measure responsible for the
legality of their actions. In times of epidemic he must lead.
He is5.the Chief of Indian Police.
He is6.a special deputy officer of the Liquor Service, a branch designed for
the suppression of the liquor traffic among Indians.
He is7.Judge of the Indian Court, with the powers of a magistrate, unless
there is an intelligent Indian who may be commissioned so to act. Such are
not in the Arizona Desert. If there should be intelligent Indians to act, the
Agent has appellate power.
He is8.the Game Warden.
He holds
9. hearings, determines heirs, and probates estates.
He often
10. makes allotment of lands to Indians and determines values.
He is11.Superintendent of Indian Trade, recommends those persons who
seek Governmental license to trade with Indians at designated trading-
posts, and is expected to regulate the prices of that trade in accordance
with market conditions.
Should
12. the Indians have moneys accruing from supervised activities, such
as the leasing or sale of lands, or from stock-selling, and so on, the Agent
first sets his approval on the leases or sales, and thereafter acts as banker
of the money.
As banker
13. again, he makes loans to Indians under the Government’s
reimbursable plan, whereby an [116]Indian may purchase of the Agent